Transmission Fluid Low / No Leaks / Replace Transfer Case Input Seal - Ford F150
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- In this video I show you how to remove your Borg and Warner 44-06 Electric Shift Transfer Case from the 4R70W Transmission on this 2003 Ford F-150 4.6L and replace the input shaft seal.
The problem the customer had was, the transmission indicator showed that there was no fluid in the transmission. Upon inspection he saw no visible leaks.However the transmission was 3 quarts low. That's when he brought it to me and I discovered all the transmission fluid was in the transfer case.
NAPA# 18771 Transfer Case Input Shaft Seal
NAPA# 99187 Transfer Case Input Shaft Speedi-Sleeve
T-Case Info:
The Borg-Warner 44-06 manual shift and electronic shift transfer cases are a three-piece magnesium design. The unit transfers engine power from the transmission to the front and rear axles. Under normal driving conditions the unit is in 2-wheel drive high (2H), but when desired, the operator may shift into 4-wheel drive high (4H) or 4-wheel drive low (4L). The operator may shift from 2H to 4H or from 4H to 2H at any speed up to 88 km/h (55 mph). The vehicle speed must be less than 5 km/h (3 mph), the brake applied, and the transmission in NEUTRAL to shift into 4L. The transfer case is shifted either manually or electronically. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.
Watching this in 2019 - I am amazed at how much better your videos are today, this is GREAT - do not get me wrong, but your more recent videos the quality is much better - you seem much more comfortable. Keep on getting better, both in the shop and with the channel. It's great!
I was just thinking this! So glad this video exists though!!
yeah he was a little rigid in the beginning.
I was thinking the same. He seems so curt and serious here. Definitely warmed up to the camera over the years. I like how he jokes around these days.
Amen to that! I am watching this old vid after watching his latest (Jan 2020), and he's much more comfortable these days in front of a camera. He's a real PRO now!!
@Larry Fry I agree with everyone
Hey Mr. Eric, For pulling those type of seals I have found that running several sheet metal screws into the face of the seal gives you something to pry on so you don't have to use the hammer and screwdriver method. it works every time. Excellent vids by the way. You are quite an inspiration.
Hats off to any mechanic that has the patience and skills to deal with salt-induced rust on the underside of a vehicle. Looks like your torch is your best friend, and you know how to use it! I moved south from Ithaca, NY to Central PA five years ago. Cars here have rust issues too, but not as bad as in Central NY. If you think about it, salt causes so much damage and extra work, that it would actually be much cheaper to make everyone buy snow tires and not salt the roads at all! Might be a conspiracy to make people buy new vehicles every 10 years and keep the parts stores happy...but auto techs also get a piece of the pie :)
Oh nice I'm not far from Ithaca actually. Shoot we may have hit some of the same trails! As much as I hate the salt I love it. Keeps the shop full but my vehicle is not exempt from the cancer :/ . I vote on the snow tire deal my self but don't think it will ever happen. People need instant results. We get snow they want bare roads in 20 minutes (or less)
I’m from Buffalo, and I agree with you. Folks aught to seriously consider buying a second set of skinny steel wheels and real snow tires, or really suck it up and buy a winter car.
I should’ve spelled “aught” ought, sorry.
I know the name is already taken, but Eric O. is a humble mechanic an ace of a technician with a knack for explaining things. The people who live in the community where his shop is located in Upstate NY are lucky to have him as their local mechanic.
I have been watching this channel.......i want to quit throwing rocks and do this.....10 hours a day ....south main auto has created a new dream for me ....love your work ......thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love your videos, clear concise info on all your repairs. Plus I like the fact that you admit when you make a mistake--a rare trait these days! In this video it really hit me when you said about putting grease or never-seize on the torsion bar ends "make it easier for the next guy". I've been that next guy many times when the previous mechanic didn't think that way. I always try to leave something like I'LL be the one taking it apart next time. Great job!
It's a still a blast to watch you tackle these jobs. No matter how many times I watch the videos I seem to always pick up something to make me better. Thanks Bruddaha.
at 29.51 you dropped the lid of your trany fluid on the floor , i automaticaly looked on my work shop floor for the lid then started laughing , its on your floor not mine , great videos , ERIC O
A good method of scraping gaskets off an aluminum or magnesium surface is to flatten out one end of a piece of copper tubing and file the end of the flat to a chisel edge. The copper is soft enough it won't damage the softer metal of the part but will scrape off the gasket material.
Or just use some silicone softener removing agent...and a plastic spatula, or even a scrap towel...then you have no scratches at all. :) If you do copper, make sure the edge has no ridges on it:) Anyway, what ever works best or what you have on hand. Even a really good hardwood spatula is great!:)
Plus, that same flattened copper tube is excellent for cleaning files. A coarse file will leave grooves in the end, but that end can be sharpened again.
Wow, you're so reserved in these early videos! Very professional, excellent video. Am just glad you've become a little more comfortable with us over the years. Thanks for sharing.
After watching this, I pulled my transfer case and changed my input seal because I was having the same issue. It took me a while because I didn’t have a lift but the job turned out well. Great Video & thanks for the knowledge.
Man those car lifts makes everything so MUCH easier... gotta get me one of those someday...😫
MIKE MIKE same, sadly unlike me, they don’t work in the sand
I've learned everything I know from Haynes books and guys like you. Amazing that rust belt mechanics make videos to show how much PITA is involved. Nothing but respect here. You didn't need to jam the head of the caliper up there to get that distance. That's the whole point of the depth gage on those things... I keep a super coarse sponge-sandpaper to take the surface down to the "good" rust; land the scale on the head and open to land the depth rod down on the key. Should be repeatable... ish.
You r a highly skilled individual! Very much enjoy watching ur work and processes . Thanx for explaining and showing so much of the tips that come from only years of experience. Your very good at explaining the why. Guys like urself r very important to the world. People take for granted all these mechanical things work thru time and temps and r kept moving by men like yourself everyday!!
WOW!! The difference in engineering between Chevy and ford..
I removed the transfer case and transmission from my Blazer in my driveway with a basic set of craftsman tools...
I've found quite a lot of things on my 2004 F150 4wd just strange the way it was put together. Like no-one ever expected to have to fix things. Some are almost impossible to get to like the rear sparkplugs on the 5.4 Triton
Terrific video! I am in the middle of this job on my 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L EB, but the process is the exact same and you have helped me immensely with several great tips, especially on the torsion bar key removal. I have the torsion bar crossmember unbolted, but was unsure how to get the keys out effectively. Thank you very much sir!
Absolutely no need to apologize for the marks on the transfer case. Most of us have been there and done that. Haters going to hate. No worries. You are absolutely a wonderful and mindful technician.
The trans and the transfer case share the same vent tubing. I've seen fluid transfer caused by the vent system in two ways. First if the vent its self is plugged it can cause pressure differences between the cases during warming and cooling cycles that can cause fluid transfer past the seal and also thru the vent tube. Second if the vent tube is out of place in a way that would cause a low spot in the vent tube between the two cases it will allow fluid to puddle and then move to the lowest point ( transfer case ). The seal is probably bad but check the vent and make sure the tube has a high spot between the two cases.
Some of the rustiest cars I have purchased have come from The State of New York. I have not had the joy to remove torsion bars like that before. Thanks for the video.
Gotta love the salt, Welcome To NY!
You've come a long way with your presentation skills. Perfectly good here IMO, but your personality and sense of humor comes through much more on camera in 2019.... a good thing!
I’ve done a couple of these. I think the last one was a ‘95 with a manual. I don’t have a lift, but it was up pretty high. It was the middle of winter and I was outside. As I remember, I think the transfer-case and transmission were cast iron, I had the worst time with the hydraulic clutch hose/linkage. Ah, good times. Eric, please keep up your excellent contributions it has been a pleasure to witness your channel progress.
This video came up automaticly. It is 2021 and this video is 6y old. I like how you described the process, but it's cool to recognize the improvements.
Looked like transfer case had the input shaft bearing sourced from Korea combined with the input shaft seal from Mexico. It never ends with the foreign parts. No wonder were screwed in America. Excellent vid-thumbs up-JJ
I used to lift stuff out by hand, until I had to have back surgery, from lifting stuff out by hand lol.
This is why you get the big money And if it ain't big money It should be. I love these videos because it gives me a greater understanding of why i pay the money to my mechanics that i do for these big jobs. I also will never pay anyone to do my disc brakes again thanks to you Eric. Thanks so much.
I've used self tapping screws through the old seal and a pair of side cutters to yank on the screw to get the seal out. sometimes it will not work but if it does work it prevents those marks on the case
reweydewy Good idea thanks
Nice details I like that part about your videos Eric
The seal that came out of that Transfer Case was made by CR Industries which later was bought by SKF so you installed their direct replacement. Good work!
Replacing the gasket between transmission and extension housing today on '94 F150. Had to remove the axles and transfer case. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Greg Shortridge YW :)
2022 Just took my 2004 F150 in for a transmission fluid exchange mainly because fluid was so low that it did not measure. Found that this seal is likely leaking at 144,000 miles. So I was glad to better understand what was involved. Thanks for this excellent video!
Your video was excellent! It absolutely covered almost every detail that I needed to know to replace the inner transfer case seal in my 2007 Ford F150. Just a couple comments to improve the already excellent video. The drive shafts free spin whenever the wheels are off the ground. I've seen guys use screw drivers through the yoke or pipe wrench to hold the shaft while removing the bolts, or keep the vehicle on the ground which in a pain when rotating the drive shafts for the next bolt removal. Your next video, cover the torque wrench values for all bolts in your presentation. It would be helpful. I was laying on my back in my garage, a transmission jack rented at my local rental job was worth its weight in gold!
Very good point Eric about the driveshaft balancing and driveline vibration
I think watching your videos has put my dream of moving to the New England area with all the rust you deal with..
Jan 2022. Losing tranny fluid, no leak. Took out fill plug and there it was so hunted for a video to see if I could do the seal myself. This is a great step by step and I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks.
Thank You! I was replacing a rear drive seal on a 1992 firebird. A coworker is a SAE mechanic told me to rub permatex on the outside of the seal. I had zero issues with the seal and the leak was gone. But it was a funny thing to do. I do commercial aircraft maintenance The ouster panels are sealed. The sealant handle is great. To remove and install panels, the speed handle is first choice. I own one swivel socket for a peticular job. It’s a half inch. This is a video that brings back memories.
Definitely more Informative on the older videos In the sense that you show a ton more of the nuts and bolts process but your newer videos around 4 years ago and now show more comfortability and More humor Keep up the amazing Work Dr. O aka Eric O love the videos especially the older ones like this one still just as Informative and entertaining as all the rest @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
All silicone is not created equal. I use permatex silicone for everything that needs silicone until this time I did a Toyota tundra water pump that the instructions say to use Toyota part number 123456789 silicone so I grabbed blue permatex and put it back together well I did that 3 Times and could not get it to seal. So I called toyota and ask them for the gasket and they say to use toyota silicone. I told him thr story and he says permatex will not work it has to be "Toyota Silicone" So I paid him 15 bucks for this little ass tube of silicone and it worked!!! I could not believe it and its been 6 years now and no problems.
I'm not sure what the difference is it looked the same and smelled the same but the "permatex" brand wouldn't seal it up so keep that in mind if you ever come across a similar problem.
Great video
JOHN HUFNAGEL Oh yeah I have lots of different sealer depending on what I am doing. ATF, gear oil, high temp low temp, oil no oil all kinds ....
+South Main Auto Repair, I like to use the anaerobic gasket makers myself. On tractor trailers we use this style a lot due to machined metal to metal surfaces mating. Plus silicone needs air or time to dry throughly. The anaerobic type dries without air. Only problem is it is not flexible.
Transformation from here to 2022 is massive. I prefer the older Eric O who is relaxed and joking. Still a great video but the sound has improved and he is certainly more relaxed in front of the camera now. Still a great video and very informative.
Since I had to do this job on my K1500 on my garage floor; I opted to get the Performance Tool W83026 GM Torsion Bar Unloading Tool. Much easier than trying to swing a pipe wrench with one hand. (especially for a little feller like me)
Old HVAC Guy I was waiting for the pipe wrench to slip and smash his fingers between the wrench and the frame.
At the 7:45 mark you could have used the other end of your caliper to measure the height of the bolt. The bar that slides out is a depth gauge.
Ford tech makalco dude made it look like the tcase could just be turned and seal installed without messing with crossmembers. Great video
Was that safety glasses I saw on your face?!? You just made a lot of viewers happy!
chasiu75 Yeah I throw them a bone from time to time :)
+South Main Auto Repair Funny -- until it's not when it gets serious because you don't 'see' the mishap coming. : / One of the drawbacks to being a pro is the ease of slipping into the comfort zone of complacency.
I just subscribed. I've seen a bit of your work before. Good stuff, being informative and interesting attention-maintaining fare. I'm an upstater, too. Where are you in proximity to Albany?
+chasiu75 True. Kidding aside, you know it's an important matter. Too few people have ever taken relative and relevant safety issues seriously, if they even considered them or saw potential threats at all, until someone paid the price. After the fact is when lawsuits, insurance claims and precautionary measures abound. ; ]
theoriginalbillholt We are western NY (steuben county)
*****
-- No, you're smart. Wearing full body armor would qualify you as paranoid.; ] Paying someone to do it for you would qualify you as one of the privileged ones with large bank accounts and baby-soft hands.
I agree you're videos are a lot better and you have always made it easy to understand how to do the job.
GREAT how-to video! Thanks for making and posting this. I discovered my '03 F150 has the same drinking problem, so I'll be doing this fix at some point soon.
If anyone has failed at replacing seals..Eris's tips here are outstanding..having backup seals and a replacement sleeve.. how to apply silicon and lube.. Learn from this procedure
Thanks for the video. Really good camera angles and lighting.
Luckily, truck doesn't have the cross-member in the way, front driveshaft and case bolts are really accessible.
I love what you do try to save your customer money you remember that 5000 Subaru
That was an outstanding video on how to take out and repair a transfer case seal! In the process you sold me a S&K 756 turbo socket set that will be delivered next week. You called them twist sockets. They should come in handy in the future.
My flat rate Jeep Dealer mechanics used a 400 ft/lb air tool to remove my transmission pan and sheared several bolt heads in the process plus I may accidentally break off a bolt head changing my right exhaust manifold.
Sandbag1300 Oh man sounds like you have your work cut out for ya
Great video. This had kung fu tire removal, fire fire fire, dad reference, Mrs O, and mind crippling rust. Honorable mention for the ad lib brake clean noise👍
My navigator is a 2003 and its 2018 and it has way way way less rust underneath everything on mine looks great like its a 2010. Whatever the hell that guy is doing to his truck he should probably stop doing it, it should not be that rusted. I live in Northern CT PS ur my hero thanks for making this video i too found way more fluid in my transfer case and i wanted to know why, and you answered all of my questions. THANK YOU.
Some good old George straight in the background 👍.
What an excellent video! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Thank you for this video. I had an 99 expedition, I would have never gotten the torsen keys out ,watching other you tubers. On the ground a bottle work great for putting pressure on keys. But believe it or not map gas and a cheap hf air hammer drove them right off. Thanks again, your videos are the best.
A bottle jack works great
Cut a round section of old screen, 1" larger than the opening of your drip-catcher- cut 8- 1" circles of an aluminum soda can as washers (4 top, 4 underneath) and pop rivet 4 to attach it to the top/inside of the mouth. You'll never have to dig in the bucket again for drain bolts, and you can easily monitor what debris (if anything) is in the fluids you drain.
Excellent class on transfer case work good job.
GMC Motorhome (1973-1978 with front wheel drive) folks have a similar setup. They have a tool that takes some of the strain off the bolt making it easier to remove & install. They call the metal piece that the torsion bar goes into a "Pork Chop"...
I just started watching your videos over the past month and I click on them randomly so I view them in no particular order i.e. from newer to older or vice versa. The date on this one is Jan 2015 (I'm watching it Jan, 2018) and the difference in your relationship with the camera (that being us) is far less personable than your later videos. The camera work, while sufficient is not as detailed as your later videos either. You have obviously learned along the way and become much more relaxed, proficient and real in your presentation. Of course I also missed the, "If I can do it, you can do it" at the end of this video as well. Good job Eric.
BTW, I am not a mechanic but I have ventured into some pretty hairy DIY projects over the years. Now that I am in my 'later' yrs., changing my own oil is about as far as I go - my aching back just can't handle it. But I do love looking over your shoulder on all of these various jobs you do and watching you struggle with (and conquer) unexpected obstacles is rather gratifying as well. ;-)
Thx u so much for doin this video iv looked for hrs tryin to find step by step exactly way u showed in this video befor i ran across this one so thx u and keep up the good work youve helped me greatly with this now i can go work on mine tomorrow
Wow that seal has a deep bore! Nice job!
Agreed the inside lip needs to be de-burred or getting the new seal in might be difficult or leave a small piece of metal to get stuck between the seal wall and bore for a possible leak. The face of the seal where the shoulder sits has nothing to do with the seal, sealing, but it is nice you take the time. If people write in negative comments about the should face having small nicks in it then they just don't understand how the seal works.
Really good video, one of the best quality image. Just a suggestion is a torsion bar tool OEM 27235 i used few times in gm and ford is faster and at same time safe to unload those bars and to get it back in place 👌. Keep doing this videos are awesome 👍
I'm so happy to watch your longer videos your so thorough i watch some of thee other videos made by parts companies and their video quality is excellent but they use the same old bolts don't clean the work area off dont clean the gasket material in some cases
Interesting. A very cautionary and somber Scott O. Nice to see your real personality has come out in later videos. I find your channel more entertaining than anything else. Especially your diagnostic Wizardry. Could never hope to match your grasp of schematics and such but find it fascinating to watch :-)
Man I appreciate u taking time to school us my 98 ford f150 all trans gears work but I think I'm in neutral on transfer case
Eric, you're a better man than me brother. No jack support for that transfer case? You are one tough hombre! 😉
Don't have to mess with torsion bars to yank a T-case on 1997 Chevy truck. They all have their own demons though. Great Vid Eric O.
Hope you enjoy yourself doing what you do because I enjoy watching you doing it thanks my opinion you’re a star in your field thanks
.. don't drill Anything..just take two small self tapping hex head sheetmetal screws, screw opposite sides into center of seal, then use two small prybars same time, hook end..apply even pressure to both simultaneously, should pop right out..
That was what I was thinking.
Eric: Spraying anti-seize ... saying "Make it easy for the next guy".
Me: Well Eric, that next guy gonna be YOU ... again
Might be a good trick for getting that seal out.
Insert two screws 90 degrees apart into the seal, not too deep. Now you have two pry surfaces to pull it out.
Another great video. Really enjoy them!
Great video. Loved the King George music in the shop. Great tips. Please come to Texas so you can be my mechanic. Thanks for your efforts with these videos.
Bediasman Glad you enjoyed them :) TX is a lil to hot for my blood :)
That being a 3 way caliper will allow you to use the depth gauge (the rod that sticks out the bottom) to get a far more accurate measurement than using the jaws. Just putting this out there for someone who doesn't know how to use all the caliper's features
A lot of people don't know that there are four methods for taking a measurement with calipers.
Wow !!!, I can't believe you say," If I can do it , you can do it" . Man, that's, a Big Big job for someone that don't have your talent. They would be crazy to even start to do a job like that. You Sir are very good at what you do for a living. God Bless
Rust ain't got nothin' on you Eric! Not an easy task for sure. You should do a video presentation on your tools at some point. It sure looks like you're a tool " freak ". Lol. I'm the same. Can't afford the 10K Verus and such,but love a quality tool that makes dealing with rust so much easier.
Great video again!
Yeah I like to kick rust in the teeth lol and I do like my tools. Been buying and saving tools sense I was 14. That's when I bought my first Mac 3/8" Impact and socket set that was my very own. Still have the sockets actually, lol. I'm 35 now so the pile adds up after a while. Thanks for watching. I know that is a long one...
Great video no bad comment from me you are a hell of a mechanic.
I bought a 2002 F-150 5.4 FX4 4x4 about a year ago with no trans issues at all. I recently decided to crank up the torsion bars to raise the front end about an one inch. One month later weather starts getting cold and on first real cold day the transmission acts up and does a neutral flare going on an Interstate on-ramp. Drives fine the rest of the day. Next morning I drive to the bank and check the fluid in Park engine running and barely can get some on the dipstick. Went to add some Mercon V and can't bring up the level after putting in half a quart. Drove to Auto parts store and add the other half of the bottle and smoke comes out around the exhaust. Look on the pavement and my Mercon that I am adding is on the ground. Trans fill tube is rusted away. Bought new dipstick tube, (Ford part XL3Z-7A228-BA did not come with an o-ring on it)and installed that and removed the Transfer Case fill plug and 5 quarts come out. Did a search for Transfer case overfilled and this is a very common problem.
when i used to do my boat seals they recommended loctite to seal the metal part of seal to the housing seemed to work pretty well
Gracias amigo very helpful on my f150 seal replacement God bless you
It's awesome that you use factory parts! I wish our shop did more!
Only in certain applications.
Critical things that need to go a long time without maintenance, or are difficult to get through is the way to go.
Sometimes the OEM parts are just overpriced. Again it depends on the application and what the parts actually do, if they bear a load or are under pressure etc.(You need to know the difference)
Awesome video! I just got an 02 truck with the same issue. Since it's a huge job and I have no lift I'm just going to monitor fluid levels for a few months and see how bad it is. I don't drive the truck much anyway. I added this to my Watch Later playlist so if tackle this I'm going to use this how-to!
+InternetDude It will seek a level and be fine for a while
+InternetDude Been driving my 1997 this way for over 100k and it has been fine. I really should take it in. The trans has 230k on it so I was waiting for it to go bad but I think it will go to 400k.
+South Main Auto Repair I suspect it's been that way the last 5-10 years. When I went to change the transfer case fluid about a gallon of fluid came out, should have been half that.
+gasripper2 At the very least you should change out your transfer case fluid with the correct fluid (it's not Mercon V by the way). I hear Mercon V is bad for transfer cases, like when it leaks into it or is used as the fluid fill.
I do change it once every two year regardless of the miles unless it goes over 20k. I have a deep pad and an extra cooler on it. It does leak a bit through the breather. All I use is the high mileage stuff Valvoline. Truck is driven everyday in California. Zero rust.
Yikes 😳 What a job! Nicely done 👍
thanks man learned a lot. Im changing the whole transmission in one with no lift and them tension bars was a new one 4 me. Great video
Glad it helped
Great job again like always A+
Mr.O: go ahead and slide your shaft right out.
Me: that’s what she said.
Also me: giggles like a high school kid 😆
Man I love your work reminds me of myself awesome job you go brother
buying the ultra grey in the big tube and using a caulk gun is a great idea, I honestly didn't even know they sold it in the big tubes.
Great video. Buying tools is based on demand in your work. If you don't need it frequently, improvise!
I always spray around where the dipstick goes in with some brake parts cleaner and blow it off with compressed air before I pull it out. That way you don't get a bunch of dirt down in the transmission when you put it back
For future reference.. you can just remove the exhaust pipe.. and you don't have to bother with the cross member and ride hight bars
the green stuff on the OEM seal is a sealant
7 years ago. WTF man ?! I hope you learned something since then. You should have washed and waxed the transfer case before reinstalling it. GG :)
Another way to remove that seal, is screw a self tapper or a couple in seal, not all the way. Use a pry bar, or Carpenter hammer, pry on screws. Usually comes right out. I actually made up a slide hammer that attaches to screws slide hammer seal out.(hopefully this helps 👍)
nice clean job , well done . I'm a stickler for things being clean when they go back together.
Oh man an oldy vid :)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Good job, but, there's no need to pull the torsion set up to replace the transfer case seal. At my shop we just pull the case back and let it just sit there between the exhaust and torsion member because it wont fall out. Same when we pull transmissions out, just sit it there and nose dive the trans out over the exhaust. Gotta love the rust!
"Okay I'm gonna remove the driveshaft"
*Lights up the torch*
Thank you for vert informative and interesting content best regards from Norway sir.
Btw, if you spit on your finger and then smear the silicone on the bearing, silicone won't stick to your finger and will make silicone smooth. I think spit is the only thing silicone doesn't stick to.
+Atrax R Hahah good tip lol
... and it doesn't stick to dishwashing liquid
Atrax R I know I'm late here, but I'm a contractor when we use silicone in kitchens and bath we dip our fingers in rubbing alcohol to spread it.
M Daley Never tried that. But usually I don't have rubbing alcohol on me anyway. xD
cool thanks
Good Work, Great Video!
Great job and tips Eric O 👍🏻