if you get one of those little 90 degree bent screwdriver pieces that usually come with an allen key on one side, usually in furniture packages, you can get to it this way. Otherwise, the other easiest option is to remove the stereo which isn't that hard at all by the way.
No I took out whole radio still no access. Closest option I can see is the skinny portion of dash that has the defrost vents but cant seem to figure out how to remove
Easiest way for me was to remove glovebox, then remove the whole assembly that contains the diverter flap (its the piece that butts up to the blower motor), this is held in with 3 T25 screws. I removed the fuse panel and mount, for clearance, removed the assembly, then I had access to the 3 screws holding the actuator to said assembly. I tried removing stereo and it gave me no access to actuator.
Of the 3 screws for assembly - one is very easy, another not too bad to access, but the third is a blind one. Hard to explain, but I used a selfie stick with my camera phone to be my eyes..... the third screw is basically up against the firewall so no way to see head of screw, so I used a light, and wedged my camera to show me where my bit with extension was going. I did use a flexible 1/4” extension
$10 part on rock auto but been reading online and alot of people have a hard time fixing it cuz it's hard to get to. Hopefully I can do it myself. Haven't had time to do it yet but will soon.
Just happened to me about 3 days ago. Same issue I took off the glove compartment and saw that when I turn off the heat fan Only back to 0. It clicks for 10secs. No issues with AC. So I’m guess something is stuck or needs to be cleaned since it closes correctly when I turn the heat on
I’m currently in the process of changing mine. I decided to remove the whole housing where the diverter flap sits in and the actuator mounts to, it was 3 T20 screws. It was a pain but I got it out, and good thing I did since the actuator has 3 screws holding it in, I only saw 2 when I was trying to get it off at first. I ordered the new part from Rock Auto for $13 with shipping. I’ll probably only put 2 of the 3 screws back in the housing cuz that third one was a bitch to get out. I did, of course, remove the glove box and fuse panel bracket to give me enough room. I will probably also modify the plastic housing a bit, to help with the install
What do you mean by the whole housing where the flap sits? I’m literally trying to do this right now. I bought the lowest clearance torx wrenches I could find but it wasn’t enough to remove just the actuator without removing something else. I see the cage for the flap has 2 silver T20 screws and the upper and lower halves are kind of jigsaw puzzled together. I removed one closest to the engine near the square portion that was upside down and one that held the top and bottom halves together that was horizontal but I don’t see a third. Also I see the square portion looks mounted to pipes on the other side of the firewall so not sure how you took it out.
So I was unable to remove it. I bought AllData DIY and it looks like you need a 12” extension to get out a screw that you can’t even see. Idk if that is true or not but I ended up just putting the car on max ac so the recirculating air engages and when the click stops I unplugged the actuator. I assume that should be good because you want recirculating on max ac enabled to have less wear on your ac components. That’s why don’t just unplug when the flap is closed.
Roush222 I actually forgot about it till now, it only happens when I enable/ disable the recirculation or put it on max a.c. and since I live in Arizona you can bet it's always on max and not moved from there
I am having the same issue w/ my 2014 Ford Focus SE. This is the HVAC Recirculation Mode Door Actuator (part # F04067) that needs to be changed.
Me too how do you fix it?
Did. You take it the the dealer or fix it yourself?
Still curious
Same issue here with 2014 SE. Did you get it figured out? How much did it cost?
@@richardwikert6503 it’s the door acultor
Was the cameraman for the Blair Witch Project movie filming this video?
if you get one of those little 90 degree bent screwdriver pieces that usually come with an allen key on one side, usually in furniture packages, you can get to it this way. Otherwise, the other easiest option is to remove the stereo which isn't that hard at all by the way.
No I took out whole radio still no access. Closest option I can see is the skinny portion of dash that has the defrost vents but cant seem to figure out how to remove
Easiest way for me was to remove glovebox, then remove the whole assembly that contains the diverter flap (its the piece that butts up to the blower motor), this is held in with 3 T25 screws. I removed the fuse panel and mount, for clearance, removed the assembly, then I had access to the 3 screws holding the actuator to said assembly. I tried removing stereo and it gave me no access to actuator.
@@davekijanowski9702 thanks, I'll try that next
Of the 3 screws for assembly - one is very easy, another not too bad to access, but the third is a blind one. Hard to explain, but I used a selfie stick with my camera phone to be my eyes..... the third screw is basically up against the firewall so no way to see head of screw, so I used a light, and wedged my camera to show me where my bit with extension was going. I did use a flexible 1/4” extension
Ford still hasn't figured out how to make this system reliable. My 2015 Fiesta recently started doing the same thing. I guess they are consistent!
$10 part on rock auto but been reading online and alot of people have a hard time fixing it cuz it's hard to get to. Hopefully I can do it myself. Haven't had time to do it yet but will soon.
I am having problems with it not putting out any heat and i replaced the thermostat any advice on what els it could be
Its the actuator. Google it and youtube it for more help
This is the Recirculation actuator. It is 2 wsy only. Which means either open or closed. It is not a blend door.
My 13 does this right now when I turn the heat off. I'm in AZ so won't need heat soon lol but ima try to fix this myself
Any luck with repairing it?
Just happened to me about 3 days ago. Same issue I took off the glove compartment and saw that when I turn off the heat fan Only back to 0. It clicks for 10secs. No issues with AC. So I’m guess something is stuck or needs to be cleaned since it closes correctly when I turn the heat on
I’m currently in the process of changing mine. I decided to remove the whole housing where the diverter flap sits in and the actuator mounts to, it was 3 T20 screws. It was a pain but I got it out, and good thing I did since the actuator has 3 screws holding it in, I only saw 2 when I was trying to get it off at first. I ordered the new part from Rock Auto for $13 with shipping. I’ll probably only put 2 of the 3 screws back in the housing cuz that third one was a bitch to get out. I did, of course, remove the glove box and fuse panel bracket to give me enough room. I will probably also modify the plastic housing a bit, to help with the install
Where did you buy yours and what brand is it? I bought one and found out the connector is too wide for the new actuator.
Were you able to replace it without taking the dash out?
Not sure the brand, but got it from RockAuto. I didn’t touch the dash, I accessed it from living on the passenger side floorboard
What do you mean by the whole housing where the flap sits? I’m literally trying to do this right now. I bought the lowest clearance torx wrenches I could find but it wasn’t enough to remove just the actuator without removing something else. I see the cage for the flap has 2 silver T20 screws and the upper and lower halves are kind of jigsaw puzzled together. I removed one closest to the engine near the square portion that was upside down and one that held the top and bottom halves together that was horizontal but I don’t see a third. Also I see the square portion looks mounted to pipes on the other side of the firewall so not sure how you took it out.
So I was unable to remove it. I bought AllData DIY and it looks like you need a 12” extension to get out a screw that you can’t even see. Idk if that is true or not but I ended up just putting the car on max ac so the recirculating air engages and when the click stops I unplugged the actuator. I assume that should be good because you want recirculating on max ac enabled to have less wear on your ac components. That’s why don’t just unplug when the flap is closed.
Hey man I have the same issue, but can't find a way to take off the blend door, any tips? I already take off the glove box
Hugo were you able to replace it?
It’s the actuator
Hola , tienes un video de Como lo quitaste ?
No, lee los comentarios bajo el video
Ahí estan las pistas necesarias 👍
Mine did this now
I have the exact same issue, were you able to fix it?
Roush222 I actually forgot about it till now, it only happens when I enable/ disable the recirculation or put it on max a.c. and since I live in Arizona you can bet it's always on max and not moved from there
Roush222 the sound means one of the teeth of the gears inside the blend actuator is broken and it can't move to where it needs
Hugo Torres thank you
theres no way to get to it behind stereo!!!
part is cheap like less $20 but looks like hard to get to.
it has finally stopped all on its own hehe
Hello, I have the same problem, need I only replace th blend actuator?