Need to swap out the taillight bulbs for LEDs so they're instant on/off like the light bar. That would drive me absolutely crazy seeing the stock signals and brakes fade in and out while the light bar comes on and turns off instantly. Edit: This would be a must for me, even without the light bar!
There is a 3 way split that uhaul sells for about 20.00 and all one has to is just unplug them and put the splitter on I did it to my Tahoe. Oh wait this was a dodge right. Fuck it don't worry about it then the truck wont last much more lol
Thanks for the recommendation. I am surprised you got one with Amber flashers when your truck doesnt have amber flashers on the rear. I want to get one for my 98 K1500, which only has red on the rear, so I hope they have one with Stop/Running, Reverse, and Red Flash. Great video!
What a shit wiring job, that was not a water tite connection, they will turn green.. that was a novice job. Friends don't let friends wire there truck like that
😂😂😂 yep man! Didn’t use cheap ass bud connectors or t taps! Also didn’t cut the wire in half! Never thought 8 layers of tape wasn’t enough! I’ll try a whole roll! Or Next time I’ll go to pep boys get come cheap connectors and solder and heat shirking tubing so I have to cut the wire completely so when I need to remove it I’ll have to cut wires again! Shame on me! Wired like this plenty of times and next time because of you I’ll try and do it a way that while at work I repair all the time! Can’t believe I had no reason behind wiring the way I did! Silly me!
@@ryan2546 lol don't listen to him it doesn't matter never let anyone get you down you did good and that's all that matters man I love your truck and I love your channel man keep up the amazing content
@@ryan2546 That's the dumbest shit I've ever herd. Please don't touch other people's stuff is all I ask and hope for! How about repining the connector with those wires all coming out of the back of the trailer connector? No splice, no cut wires or insulation and also the most factory look you could do. See how you zipped tied all that extra wire up? Gonna need it later as your wires get more and more green!
The best way is to purchase a "T" connector. No cuts, splices, etc. All plug and play with weather proof connectors. Try to never strip the insulation from weather exposed wiring unless absolutely necessary . Love the light bar though gonna order one! Here is a link for T connector, I'm sure there are others too. www.curtmfg.com/part/55504
@@JeffRigney, while nice as hell the Curt one is $62! This one is only $10! MICTUNING Universal 4 Way Flat Y-Splitter Plug & Play Adapter Extension Harness for LED Tailgate Light Bar and Trailer Lights www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCT84XY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fCMQCbM6YKB9H
Don’t use any snap connectors, always use heat shrink connections. They’re weatherproof, and will not corrode if you do it properly do it. Splicing wires the way he did is sure to fail shortly.
Posi-tap or the supplied ones work with electrical tape. Haven't had any issues for 2 years. Glad i didnt aoldoer becausei sold the truck but wanted to keep the blade
Hey man, just wanted to say thanks for this video. I bought my Putco 48" this week, it came in yesterday and I got it installed last night. Super awesome light and have gotten a lot of compliments on it. I'll post a video and give you a shout out. Thanks again!
Looks like a sweet rear end upgrade. To avoid future problems, I would highly suggest (as others have, but i'm trying to add a helpful factor in and not just name call) you do a better splice in job. The elements will make it through your electrical tape and corrode those connections. Those scotch lock connectors (t-taps) are no good and have seen them fail many times as well. I mean your connections, as is now, may last a week, a year, or maybe 10 years, but I'm sure you don't want to have to worry about it at all. I would suggest cutting the wires apart where you spliced in and either soldering them and then covering them with heat shrink that has adhesive inside that will help seal it up, or use butt splice connectors that have heat shrink with adhesive on them. You can get ones that can accept 2 wire on one side and one wire on the other side (like a yellow butt on one side and blue on the other). To take that even further in to the professional installation side, you could make or purchase an 8" adaptor with the correct connectors and amount of wires and then splice in off of that and have a connector there and install a connector on the light bar wires. You could then remove the adaptor and light bar if you ever wanted and just plug the factory connectors back together. Obviously this is just my opinion and someone else might call me an idiot or maybe have something helpful to add, which i'm fine with learning, But this is what has worked for me to make good wiring connections and not have to worry about them. Cheers
I respect you actually commented on how I should do it to not worry! Lol I did it this way so if I wanted I could always remove it without cutting! I didn’t want to cut and solder the harness back together, I may solder the connections in the future but for now they’re gonna be like that for a while lololol
I haven't watched the whole video yet but doesn't somebody make some type of plug and play so you don't have to cut any wiring and in the future if you wanted to remove it you just plug the original back in???
I got one on my car silly I know But I do t have a daytime runner wired in (weird on a car) but the brake lights flash 2 times before staying solid and the turn signal goes from one side to the other sorta like an Audi signal. Cheap and easy mod!
Did you just wrap spliced wires on the under side of the truck with just electrical tape? No solder, connectors or heat shrink? Moisture problems ahead.
So while I'm only looking for a reverse light bar, holy crap $300 today on Amazon for this Blade.....still looking.......but a question for ya, I suppose your truck does not have "Trailer Light Out Sensing" because if it did, wouldn't the truck think a trailer is always connected? On my 19 Ford, when I plug in a trailer (essentially the same thing as you tapped into), the truck knows the trailer is connected. Just a thought....
Thx for the video. Anyway to show the back up camera while light is on? Or maybe quick answer on if it effects the camera with how bright the light is? Im worried it might effect the back up cameras picture at night. But either way great video, keep them coming. Thx
You say you can finally afford this... Maybe you wouldn't always be broke if you didn't go through so many trucks. And I bet you didn't actually own any of them. The bank owns them.
Has everyone forgotten how to solder wiring? Electrical taping does nothing to protect long term connectivity or prevent corrosion. Protect both your investments.....truck and lightbar!
our car doesnt have the 4 pin flat socket. i plan to hard wire the product. the supply wires are as follows 1. Ground 2. Running light 3. Brake 4. Left turn 5. Right Turn 6. Reverse the product i bought has 5 terminals / wires ; 3 colors - red, amber, and white 1. Ground 2. Running light (red low beam) 3. Left turn 4. Right Turn 5. Reverse i do not know where to connect the brake supply wire from the car to produce the high red beam
Has he heard of the CURT 55384 Vehicle Side Custom USCAR Vehicle Trailer Wiring Harness for Towing, 4-Pin Trailer Wiring? I used it to install my OPT7 Triple LED Tailgate Bar with sequential turn signal, and the only splice I had to do was for the Reverse cable. The CURT harness took care of the rest. In my case the bar already came with the 4-Pin connector pre-installed and a single cable for the Reverse.
I have a 2016 ram 1500 and my tailgate bar has a separate brake wire……where can I tie that into……it doesn’t work properly if I tie into the tail light wire…… any advice?
Why hack a harness. You can get the plug n play that goes between the harness plugs. What sh*try install. You should of hidden that part and not mentioned that half ass wiring job
Hey man, that is some bright lights, I have a RAM 1500 and I need to figure out how to rig up a movable light bar for retrieving a boat at NIGHT, there are NO lights at the ramp i am always at. I wanted to light up the whole area because it's a sailboat, not a motor boat it goes on differently and you have to see things! Is there any way to make up a connection for this situation?
There is only a few wires in the harness just use a goddamn test light and stop messing around! I have seen vehicles where the cover on the seven pin harness were marked incorrectly! Also by the time you were done looking for a wiring diagram you could have been done using a test light!
I'm sorry but my ass isnt gonna spend 200+ on a light bar on the rear that I can see what's the benefits lol it looks cool yeah I can spend 200+ on something that's gonna benefit my truck
I wonder if light goes on tail gate why not take tail gate off to make install easier? if it goes on end of bed still remove TG for easier installation. just wondering
Now you need to wire up a switch from reverse light to light bar so when someone is riding your ass you flip the switch and blast them with the bright white light lol
I've two of these light bars on my 2015 ram 1500. Great looking and functional when they work. First one lasted 4 months the shop replaced it and now this isn't working. Shop says they've had several issues and on the phone with putco. They'll install another one but said it'll happen again
The tailgate has to stay on in order for the light strip to be placed correctly. If not then the bar will be blocked of by the bottom edge of the tailgate
@@lisandro_5751 yes true but ok here is the but. Leave it on make the markings on where it's going to go then take the tail gate off. Now that's the easy and smart way right
Does this mount cover up the spare tire release hole? And are you able to drop the spare tire with this on? I’ve heard of some people having to remove the plastic hole cover so the bar mounts flat, how was it in that area?
This light bar can be removed from the mounting brackets to get to the spare tire and the brackets stay on your truck! And it pops back in! I removed that part from editing made the video wayyyy to long and I can even use the 31” spare anymore 😂😂! But amazing design!!
if u use the plastic brackets it will give it the same space as the plastic spare hole the light will even shit on the plastic hole but the plastic brackets do break easy so be carful i broke the tabs on mine and just took them off and put 3m on the light its self and took off the plastic spare hole
I would recommend removing the tailgate to install much easier. Also, it looks like you installed the lightbar right over the spare tire removal opening? How will you drop the spare?
....spends $200 on a tailgate lightbar - okay fine.... doesn't spend $12 on a soldering iron to make good connections - not so cool....
WORD!!!
He’s a newb, give him a break
Cringy eh
No go have to save my money for crack
The tape probably fell off before he was done with the video.....
less talk more action
A ha ha ha ha!!!!! The light looks awesome!!!
Need to swap out the taillight bulbs for LEDs so they're instant on/off like the light bar. That would drive me absolutely crazy seeing the stock signals and brakes fade in and out while the light bar comes on and turns off instantly.
Edit: This would be a must for me, even without the light bar!
Perfect way to destroy factory wiring there are much better ways to splice wires
Omfg seriously! Im in michigan, those wires would be dead by next spring 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Cj Bales I am in Ohio and thought the same thing other than that looks like a cool light bar
Agreed!
There is a 3 way split that uhaul sells for about 20.00 and all one has to is just unplug them and put the splitter on I did it to my Tahoe. Oh wait this was a dodge right. Fuck it don't worry about it then the truck wont last much more lol
Nevermind this is a great application to use a powered relay.
Damn! I spent $20.00 on a light strip on Amazon and couldn’t be happier. You’re a better man than me coughing up 10Xs the price on yours.
Naah you're just cheap.
Holy crap show the install already ! Waited too long I’m out.
Ok matthew? Lol gtfo already
Now you can't get your spare tire down you covered up the access hole... This the only reason I haven't put one of these on my Ram 2500
Thanks for the recommendation. I am surprised you got one with Amber flashers when your truck doesnt have amber flashers on the rear. I want to get one for my 98 K1500, which only has red on the rear, so I hope they have one with Stop/Running, Reverse, and Red Flash.
Great video!
New drinking game.... every time he says “here” drink. 😂
Too duckin frunk ta continue playin......grate
Remove the dealership license plate frame.
I think they give him inscentive(royalties) for keeping it on to advertise. Could be wrong.
Dealer pays 10 dollars a month here to drive around with it.
Could be paying for him to drive that hideous green truck.
All license plate frames look bad.
Have fun lowering your spare tire when you have a flat....
He wont be cause it's the oem spare and the other 4 are big ass mud tires on different wheels
@@Marathon13240 sure yah can.. the spare goes on the front and leave it in 2wd
Why would you go to all this trouble for an LED light bar when you didn't even replace your factory brake light bulbs with LEDs?
I love seeing this build come along, it's so satisfying.
Me too 😍
how is it holding up $250 is a lil steep
Block the spare tire crank lowering access hole 👍
Would have been better to use a butt splice or a t splice and some soulder just something to thing about wrap and tape isn't the best way
What a shit wiring job, that was not a water tite connection, they will turn green.. that was a novice job. Friends don't let friends wire there truck like that
😂😂😂 yep man! Didn’t use cheap ass bud connectors or t taps! Also didn’t cut the wire in half! Never thought 8 layers of tape wasn’t enough! I’ll try a whole roll! Or Next time I’ll go to pep boys get come cheap connectors and solder and heat shirking tubing so I have to cut the wire completely so when I need to remove it I’ll have to cut wires again! Shame on me! Wired like this plenty of times and next time because of you I’ll try and do it a way that while at work I repair all the time! Can’t believe I had no reason behind wiring the way I did! Silly me!
@@ryan2546 lol don't listen to him it doesn't matter never let anyone get you down you did good and that's all that matters man I love your truck and I love your channel man keep up the amazing content
@@ryan2546 That's the dumbest shit I've ever herd. Please don't touch other people's stuff is all I ask and hope for! How about repining the connector with those wires all coming out of the back of the trailer connector? No splice, no cut wires or insulation and also the most factory look you could do. See how you zipped tied all that extra wire up? Gonna need it later as your wires get more and more green!
The best way is to purchase a "T" connector. No cuts, splices, etc. All plug and play with weather proof connectors. Try to never strip the insulation from weather exposed wiring unless absolutely necessary . Love the light bar though gonna order one! Here is a link for T connector, I'm sure there are others too. www.curtmfg.com/part/55504
@@JeffRigney, while nice as hell the Curt one is $62! This one is only $10! MICTUNING Universal 4 Way Flat Y-Splitter Plug & Play Adapter Extension Harness for LED Tailgate Light Bar and Trailer Lights www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCT84XY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fCMQCbM6YKB9H
Don’t use any snap connectors, always use heat shrink connections. They’re weatherproof, and will not corrode if you do it properly do it. Splicing wires the way he did is sure to fail shortly.
Yup. If you’ve seen his more recent videos it’s already failed
Posi-tap or the supplied ones work with electrical tape. Haven't had any issues for 2 years. Glad i didnt aoldoer becausei sold the truck but wanted to keep the blade
Hey man, just wanted to say thanks for this video. I bought my Putco 48" this week, it came in yesterday and I got it installed last night. Super awesome light and have gotten a lot of compliments on it. I'll post a video and give you a shout out. Thanks again!
Bro dont tell me to watch something like 8 times, I'm looking at my phone what do you think im gonna do look away?
Looks like a sweet rear end upgrade. To avoid future problems, I would highly suggest (as others have, but i'm trying to add a helpful factor in and not just name call) you do a better splice in job. The elements will make it through your electrical tape and corrode those connections. Those scotch lock connectors (t-taps) are no good and have seen them fail many times as well. I mean your connections, as is now, may last a week, a year, or maybe 10 years, but I'm sure you don't want to have to worry about it at all. I would suggest cutting the wires apart where you spliced in and either soldering them and then covering them with heat shrink that has adhesive inside that will help seal it up, or use butt splice connectors that have heat shrink with adhesive on them. You can get ones that can accept 2 wire on one side and one wire on the other side (like a yellow butt on one side and blue on the other). To take that even further in to the professional installation side, you could make or purchase an 8" adaptor with the correct connectors and amount of wires and then splice in off of that and have a connector there and install a connector on the light bar wires. You could then remove the adaptor and light bar if you ever wanted and just plug the factory connectors back together. Obviously this is just my opinion and someone else might call me an idiot or maybe have something helpful to add, which i'm fine with learning, But this is what has worked for me to make good wiring connections and not have to worry about them. Cheers
I respect you actually commented on how I should do it to not worry! Lol I did it this way so if I wanted I could always remove it without cutting! I didn’t want to cut and solder the harness back together, I may solder the connections in the future but for now they’re gonna be like that for a while lololol
Bradley is right, do it right the first time. I lmfao when I saw you twist splice and tape the joints.
I haven't watched the whole video yet but doesn't somebody make some type of plug and play so you don't have to cut any wiring and in the future if you wanted to remove it you just plug the original back in???
How's is Putco Blade holding up? Getting mix reviews as far lasting long!
I got one on my car silly I know But I do t have a daytime runner wired in (weird on a car) but the brake lights flash 2 times before staying solid and the turn signal goes from one side to the other sorta like an Audi signal. Cheap and easy mod!
Is it still working?
Thanks for Showing me the connection for the Reverse light Buddy......😢
Did you just wrap spliced wires on the under side of the truck with just electrical tape? No solder, connectors or heat shrink?
Moisture problems ahead.
Oh snap I need this!!! Subscribed great video I just got a ram 1500 ready to mod it up
Wow I don't splice any wires on my 2017 Silverado it's all plug and play simple
So while I'm only looking for a reverse light bar, holy crap $300 today on Amazon for this Blade.....still looking.......but a question for ya, I suppose your truck does not have "Trailer Light Out Sensing" because if it did, wouldn't the truck think a trailer is always connected?
On my 19 Ford, when I plug in a trailer (essentially the same thing as you tapped into), the truck knows the trailer is connected. Just a thought....
I love my Putco Blade...i've had 3 since Christmas 2018. Thank God for the warranty.
The adhesion promoter isn't for the paint side it's for the light bar side when you stick the tape too
Thx for the video. Anyway to show the back up camera while light is on? Or maybe quick answer on if it effects the camera with how bright the light is? Im worried it might effect the back up cameras picture at night. But either way great video, keep them coming. Thx
You say you can finally afford this... Maybe you wouldn't always be broke if you didn't go through so many trucks. And I bet you didn't actually own any of them. The bank owns them.
Has everyone forgotten how to solder wiring? Electrical taping does nothing to protect long term connectivity or prevent corrosion. Protect both your investments.....truck and lightbar!
our car doesnt have the 4 pin flat socket. i plan to hard wire the product.
the supply wires are as follows
1. Ground
2. Running light
3. Brake
4. Left turn
5. Right Turn
6. Reverse
the product i bought has 5 terminals / wires ; 3 colors - red, amber, and white
1. Ground
2. Running light
(red low beam)
3. Left turn
4. Right Turn
5. Reverse
i do not know where to connect the brake supply wire from the car to produce the high red beam
1:30 in and all you've done is repete yourself over and over. I see no reason to continue watching.
Edit: Number 62
repete? . . . try REPEAT.
Has he heard of the CURT 55384 Vehicle Side Custom USCAR Vehicle Trailer Wiring Harness for Towing, 4-Pin Trailer Wiring? I used it to install my OPT7 Triple LED Tailgate Bar with sequential turn signal, and the only splice I had to do was for the Reverse cable. The CURT harness took care of the rest. In my case the bar already came with the 4-Pin connector pre-installed and a single cable for the Reverse.
I have a 2016 ram 1500 and my tailgate bar has a separate brake wire……where can I tie that into……it doesn’t work properly if I tie into the tail light wire…… any advice?
How did you tap into the reverse light? Did you pill the rear light out ? And what wire? Thanks.
Once again, an example of an unnecessary addition to a truck HOWEVER because it says LED on it, people go ape shit and have to buy it
Why hack a harness. You can get the plug n play that goes between the harness plugs. What sh*try install. You should of hidden that part and not mentioned that half ass wiring job
Hey man, that is some bright lights, I have a RAM 1500 and I need to figure out how to rig up a movable light bar for retrieving a boat at NIGHT, there are NO lights at the ramp i am always at. I wanted to light up the whole area because it's a sailboat, not a motor boat it goes on differently and you have to see things! Is there any way to make up a connection for this situation?
Why are my turn signals always hot no matter?!. I went thru the 7pin cable… the right and left turn signal stay lit no matter…
There is only a few wires in the harness just use a goddamn test light and stop messing around! I have seen vehicles where the cover on the seven pin harness were marked incorrectly! Also by the time you were done looking for a wiring diagram you could have been done using a test light!
I'm sorry but my ass isnt gonna spend 200+ on a light bar on the rear that I can see what's the benefits lol it looks cool yeah I can spend 200+ on something that's gonna benefit my truck
I wonder if light goes on tail gate why not take tail gate off to make install easier? if it goes on end of bed still remove TG for easier installation.
just wondering
Give you about 6 months to a year if you're lucky before that jack leg wiring job starts to give you issues.
OPT 7 60" light bar amazon plug n play , put one on my 2014 GMC Sierra , less than $200
What brand is that ? Thats pretty bad a**
I like the amber turn lights! Pretty cool man !
But wiring is a bitch, I stay away from it. I bought a NRG wheel and tried to get my horn to work but I can’t so ima just take it to a shop lol
All that money on a light and can’t even solider ya fucking wires together or get an different style T taps 🤦♂️
Why wouldn't you just take the tailgate off? Oh,and solder the connections for crying out loud!
Now you need to wire up a switch from reverse light to light bar so when someone is riding your ass you flip the switch and blast them with the bright white light lol
splice into wires shitty idea looking for future problems you can buy plugs that make life easier and safer
Nice light. But damn, was your truck stuck between the garage door opening? That there are some tight spot...lol
So many cuts in your editing, I had to stop watching. Would've been decent content otherwise.
THAT LIGHT BAR IS NOW $250...LOOKS GOOD BUT DAMN THAT'S A HIGH PRICE...
I REALLY like the Reverse and Hazard light function and appearance. Thank for this information and post....
Way too much talking. Nobody wants to hear your back story every video.
You no them mud tires ain't slinging no mud lol ..those tires are pavement queen tires
Lopez Melissa Robinson Patricia Martin Jessica
I've two of these light bars on my 2015 ram 1500. Great looking and functional when they work. First one lasted 4 months the shop replaced it and now this isn't working. Shop says they've had several issues and on the phone with putco. They'll install another one but said it'll happen again
Hey my bar didn’t come with the packet of adhesive stuff
I wanna get this but for the use of shooing tailgaters and people who use high beam lights
Make one of the future mods full led tail lights to match the led light bar. Like smoke color
I took the wires out of the connector to not cut any wires. See my install here ua-cam.com/video/yxzcnvDBBpE/v-deo.html
Why do guys who drive dodge trucks ride around with towing mirrors up?
Made it 3 minutes 20 seconds. Got tired of listening to him talk
Damn, are you paid by the word? Just install the shit already
@ryanmayer have you gotten stop by a cop cause of the brightness
I wish the flash for signal was red color to match the oem tail lights.
A Curt-T connector would’ve been cleaner to use in my opinion instead of splicing. Either way great vid!
They will turn green and corrode almost instantly.
Or a wago
Only a couple seconds to pop the tailgate off for more room to work.
Pete Mycek couple seconds my ASS.you ever tried removing a locking silenoid type tail gate from a RAM PU
Exactly what i was thinking....
Shit you take off the tailgate and the bed walls will fall apart that's the only thing holding it together cause it's a dodge
The tailgate has to stay on in order for the light strip to be placed correctly. If not then the bar will be blocked of by the bottom edge of the tailgate
@@lisandro_5751 yes true but ok here is the but. Leave it on make the markings on where it's going to go then take the tail gate off. Now that's the easy and smart way right
Dude spend $10 and get rid of that bum ass hat and get you a new one!
I'ma stick one of these on the top of the hatch on my Mazda 3
isn't there an a adapter you can buy that's plug and play ????
Sooooo much talking for just a tailgate light!! 🤦🏻♂️
Looks good only reason I care for them cause of the blinker I can't stand that the light bar is a blinker (IMO) looks tacky
Sequential > blinking
You can leave off the left/right blinkers, and utilize the tail light portion of the 7 pin trailer adapter and have running, brake, and reverse only.
Your edits make this unwatchable. Just FYI.
so you covered the hole that accepts the spare tire crank???
The protective part of the wire, It’s called sheathing- your welcome
"you're"
Way over priced Ts are better than the tape like it or not.
Just spent 14 dollars for a 5 function tailgate light bar triple layer leds to 😂
GRIZZLY GRIZZ link please
Not legal in all 50 states... neither is the wiring....
For 200$ that thing better make my truck fly.
Does this mount cover up the spare tire release hole? And are you able to drop the spare tire with this on? I’ve heard of some people having to remove the plastic hole cover so the bar mounts flat, how was it in that area?
This light bar can be removed from the mounting brackets to get to the spare tire and the brackets stay on your truck! And it pops back in! I removed that part from editing made the video wayyyy to long and I can even use the 31” spare anymore 😂😂! But amazing design!!
if u use the plastic brackets it will give it the same space as the plastic spare hole the light will even shit on the plastic hole but the plastic brackets do break easy so be carful i broke the tabs on mine and just took them off and put 3m on the light its self and took off the plastic spare hole
Beautiful light bar definitely worth the money
MICTUNING Triple Tailgate Light Bar ?
Would love some of your LFTD decals how do I order
You are truly amazing and I enjoy all the videos !!!
A novice don't solder and heat shrink!!!
I’ve always wanted a krazy kool appearance
Looks good man
Im thinking of buying a Toyota Tacoma to get around im not comfortable in big trucks do you think a tacoma will be a good starter?
Go Big or Go Home.
Need a smaller truck or a wider shop door too.
Looks good nice install. I would have went red for turn but that's just me! Love the green!
I was thinking that too but the amber kinda sets it off!
@@ryan2546 everything you do sets it off. Love that truck!
I would recommend removing the tailgate to install much easier. Also, it looks like you installed the lightbar right over the spare tire removal opening? How will you drop the spare?
HPIII looking for that option is the only reason I watched this ( I also have a ram ). Then he went right over top of it🤦🏻♂️
@@UpStuff This is also the only reason I watched this video. I wan't one for my 2014 Ram 2500, but I also want to be able to lower my spare tire,
That's install is major clean. Nice truck.
Can you still get to the spare tire hole???
Is this better than Recon and Opt7?
The wiring sounds like Chinese lol 😩