Jeep 3.6 Pentastar V6 Gets 5W30 Synthetic Oil to Make the Valvetrain Happy - To Hell With 0W20
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- "But the engine was designed for lighter oil." No, it wasn't. To know why these automakers are increasingly changing their oil specs to lighter and lighter viscosities, you have to follow the almighty dollar. #jeep #car #oil
Allegedly the dealership 0W20 bulk oil is actually Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which is a great oil, so that certainly helped this engine make it this far....along with the frequent oil changes every 6,000 miles.
I have been a mechanic since 1985. I agree with you on all that you have said regarding the 3.6L pentastar engine except for one thing. It does have an inherent flaw in its design. The oil filter housing / cooler assembly. Those are a known failure point. Other than that the 3.6L is a good and dependable engine that with proper maintenance does last well into the 200K mile range.
And one other point on the 0W20 and 5W20 oils. Yes those are neede if you have an engine with low tension piston rings. Toyota and Hyundai / Kia have learnd some lessons along this path.
Plus the biggest thing everyone should know is don't follow the recomended oil change intervals. 4000 to 5000 miles is a good target. The 7000 to 10'000 mile oil
change does you no favors, and can harm your engine.
Great video!!!
Never go past 4,000 miles on oil change. The reason car makes push this crazy 6,000 to 10,000 mile interval is it is factored into the overall “environmental impact” of the expected life of the vehicle. By doubling the oil change interval, on paper is shows “less” but in fact shortens the over life of the engine. The goal is to cause the engine to fail sooner which will push the consumer to buy an even newer vehicle with more stringent epa regulations forced upon it.
I'm 100% in agreement in doing your own oil change.
So much for 20 weight oils being "superior".
Its NOT.. WE RUN 5.W.4O!!! We are at 455.000..!!!!@@billdang3953
I run 5w30 in my 5.7 hemi. Works fantastic no cam problems on any of my hemis.
Any problems with the mds i was worried about going 5w 30
cr2158, I have a 2014 ram with 5.7 hemi. Switched to 5w30 at 55,000 miles, has 120,000 now. Zero issues with mds and never had a check engine light.
i run my pentastars with 5w-30 no matter what year model it is. unbelievable how they went from 5w-30 on the early year models then all the way down to 0w-20 in todays engines. thanks epa!
Same with hemis
We’ll surprise they want you to have to buy a new vehicle to get money from your pocket before they go belly up.
Euro 5. W. 40,, IS THE VERY BEST.. MAXIMUM PROTECTION@@fortnite360HZ
Maserati fixed the lousy design with oil filter relocation. Check valve for drainback.beefed internals.etc and 10w 60 oil.
The oil change specs used to be 10,000 mile intervals,
YES sir I remember that old video.... I followed your advice with my Jeep Wrangler 392 and went with the 5w 40 and valvetrain is still quiet. Great video hope this one does well too..
I have never been disappointed with Shell Rotella T 15-40, never.
Very good video. You may want to check/replace the oil filter after the first 500 miles. I have seen many other videos using the Restore and Protect oil, and it does such a good job that the oil filter is at the “plugged up” stage after just 300 to 500 miles.
Additionally, after watching your video, I put 5w30 oil in my 2023 Ram 1500 5.7L engine (with just 3,000 miles) and it works perfectly fine just like it should. In fact, I let the truck sit for 2 to 3 weeks in mid 30’s temperatures, stand in front of the truck while I remote start it, and there is ZERO rattling on the start up, and the MDS/ECO mode works just fine.
Did the same with our '15 JKU and made a before and after video. 128K miles. Much louder and more clacking with 20 weight. 30 weight really quiets it down. Other applications for this engine in different models call for 30 weight oil even though it's the same engine. 20 weight is purely for a fraction of a percent better fuel economy
I switched to the 5w30 because my wife picked up the wrong oil, (she ordered online) it immediately eliminated ticking noise on startup!!! My truck had 25k miles on it and had been ticking on cold starts (in Texas and Florida) since I bought it!!!! It now has 35k miles still no ticking!
One “feature” of the newer Pentastar engines is the ESS (Electronic Stop/Start), which is another EPA ploy to reduce fuel consumption specs. It really only does something if you drive in an area with a lot of traffic lights or heavy traffic. Constantly stopping and starting the engine to save a few cc’s of fuel isn’t a particularly great idea for engine longevity, in my opinion.
I disabled the ESS on my last Jeep Wrangler (2000 2-door) that I leased, with an ESS Eliminator module, and transferred that module over to the 2001 Wrangler JLU that I bought after the lease. It cost me about $100, but I’ve now used it on two Pentastar engines. The module just plugs in-line with the OBD2 port under the dash, so easy to install, and easily removed if bringing to the dealership for warranty work. The module just remembers what state you had the standard ESS disable switch on the dash set, and starts back up in the same state.
After the warranty ran out, I disconnected the small ESS Aux battery and pulled out the ESS fuse in the fusebox since I never have ESS enabled, and the little Aux battery often goes bad in about 2-3 years, and can kill the main starting battery when it does. No faults are displayed with the battery and fuse pulled.
I run Amsoil Signature Series 5W30 Full Synthetic oil in my 2010 Jeep Wrangler Islander and the Amsoil Ea15K51 Full Synthetic oil filter. 5W30 is fine, spec is 5W20. Too light at the high end. This 3.8L V6 engine tends to be hard on oil so I check it very often, regularly. I highly recommend Amsoil.
3.8 in 2010 Wrangler is not a Pentastar. And it isn't really hard on oil. It just tends to use oil...likely through the PCV system, and that's unrelated to oil weight. I had a 2008 and sold it with almost 200,000 miles on it and it ran like new. But still used some oil. Mostly on 5w20.
@@dmwil1 I replaced the PCV when I learned this was the potential exit point for engine oil. No change to the consumption amount, so that was not the problem. My comparison to my Jeep was the 2015 Honda Fit that used very little, next to none, engine oil. It was the vehicle I drove for about a year before trading it in for the Jeep Wrangler.
I have 3 Jeeps in the family and all of them get 5-30, the Pentastar likes it a lot better.
I immediately felt the difference after switching to Schaeffer's 5w30 from their 5w20 in my 2020 Grand Cherokee. Made a world of difference.
My 2015 3.6 VVT (bought new) specified 5W20 which I used in winter and 5W30 in summer. Never had a problem and no valve train clatter. I changed the oil and filter every six months or 5,000 miles.
How many miles
@@RohanSanjith 251K. It's a great engine if maintained well
I have a Gladiator, I have been running 5w-30 since day one. 5w-30 is the ideal oil.
How cold do your winters get? Is 5w30 handling the cold fine?
Used 5w-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic in my old 2005 F-150. 5.4l triton. Also changed my spark plugs at 30,000 miles. I’m old school when it comes to maintenance. Had over 600,000 miles on that old truck. Still running good, body not as lucky. I live in the salt belt 😢
Ford has never used good metals in their bodies
Yeah, I never run the thin oil since it's just for the no load EPA MPG test requirements. I've always ran the 5W-30 Synthetic or 10W-30. I know for a fact from working at Kia and owning a couple of Kia/Hyundai's that those engines would last much longer with good clean 5W-30 synthetic. About the only engine I would agree on the thin oil in are the hybrids that don't run long enough to heat the oil up very much. Thanks for the video.
147K on my wife's Grand Caravan Pentastar and no bad rockers yet. Yet.
Had been using 0w16 in my 2020 Toyota Camry. Switched to 5w30 and no more noise , especially when accelerating , very smooth . When stopped at a traffic light , I can't believe engine is running . Noise - Friction - Wear
The noise in the Camry is the direct injection not valvetrain
If your vehicle requires 0w16 and your putting in 5W-30 your in for trouble. A serial killer is always the quietest.
I already did this with my two 3.6 engines. One in a 2019 Jeep Wrangler and the other in a 2019 Grand Caravan.
I switched them after running about a year on the recommended oil viscosity.
I immediately noticed the valve train quietened down on the Wrangler. I could not tell any difference on the Caravan, but it always had a quieter valve train.
5 years later, there are no issues. Both engines run just fine on 5W30. I don't start and drive my cars right away in the winter. I also don't drive like I'm late everywhere I go.
My wife has a 2016 Dodge Charger with the 3.6
80,000 miles so far without issue. But starting at about 60,000 i started using 5W30 in it instead of the recommended 5W20.
It overall seems quiter & happier. MPG has not changed any either.
I will continue using it
I own a 2016 ram 1500 .....I remember your video about the tick ...... running valvoline extended protection high mileage 5w30......gtl base stock .........motor runs quiet and smooth ...8 degrees pressure shoots right to 61psi cold start no tick..... motor loves the 5w30 and the great valvoline add pack..
2020 JT 3.6 just flipped 200,000 miles here.... i mostly run 0W20 Amsoil in the cold months in NW Indiana, and 5w30 Amsoil or Valvoline EP in the hot months. FWIW YMMV....
I miss your old Jeep Gladiator videos!! I trust your opinion on this engine for maintenance.
I had a 2014 JKU and ran Amsoil Signature Series oil in it. I ended up have a rocker starting to eat the cam. I noticed the tick more, so I ripped into and replaced the both cams and lifters and rockers on the passenger side, tick gone. My buddy bought the jeep and it's got over 200,000 kms and it's still going strong.
Had to change rockers due to the ticking noise. They are known to have bearing failures. Changed all rockers and lifters while apart. Have always used 5w30 oil. Now has 250,000 miles and running smoothly.
Might not be relevant these days but I worked at a Texaco station in northern Indiana back in the 1970s and the owner used straight 20 weight Havoline in everything we worked on year around. These were the large gas guzzling V8s and big straight 6s and ran well on that oil.
So I picked up a jug of Pennzoil 5w-30 for my 2024 Jeep, wish me luck. So far so good
Awesome vid! Live here in Michigan my dodge journey 2017 says 5w20 been running amsoil since it had 10’000 miles just switched to the amsoil high mileage 5w20 at 157,000 not one problem with noise but being it’s getting up there probably wouldn’t hurt to run 5w30 going to give it a try this summer.
My sister got my wifes 2011 Durango,it had 166k,and I only used 10w30,changed oil every 4k.Original plugs still. My new Toyota hybrids use 0w-16! The new 6b oils are thin but have a robust additive pack. Using 10-30 on my hybrid would damage it,because of pressure dynamics. People in the USA always choose big numbers,use what the cap says,change your oil on time,you will not have any problems.
To hell with EPA/Cafe laws and regulations . My toyota asks for 0w16 , I run 5w30 , So much quieter and smoother
Run castrol european oil its even better than the north american stuff the 0w30 castrol euro oil protects better than north american 5w30
@EverydayJ1786
What the bureacrats and tree hugging idiots don't understand and the manufacturers don't care about is that there is less damage to the environment, not to mention your wallet, by a reliable machine that can continue to operate than by some theoretically more efficient machine that has to be scrapped and replaced.
I'm in 100% agreement with you on this. Just bought a 2020 JGC with the pentastar from a private owner. It needed an oil change. So i went out and bought 0w20 valvoline restore & protect. It does fine since its winter now but I'm not a fan of these thin watery oils. Come spring I'm going to change it to 5w30 as i think thats the best weight oil for longevity.
One thing to remember if there's sludge the restore and protect can get the filter plugged quick.
Sorta Depends how "dirty" (Sludged) your engine is. "Best" case IMO is to use VRP on a vehicle that you "know" the History/Change Interval/Abuse level. If the Oil and Filter that VRP is replacing looks like Sludge already then you will want to swap the Filter Early and keep an eye on the condition of the Oil on the Dipstick.
Valvoline claims it (VRP) won't clog the Oil Filter but that assumes a normal change interval AND an Engine not already at/over the Edge of being a Sludge Factory...
I documented the condition of my XG9018 Oil Filter for my 2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L Ecotec Engine in a couple of UA-cam (Short) Videos. At 3008 miles and its replacement (new) then a "check-up" after 114 miles... Looks "Normal"/Similar to the previous Filters... Just that it is a better quality filter then usual and relatively speaking is less likely to twist/tear with use because of reinforcement mesh that most other Cartridge Oil Filters I've used on my Ecotec engines don't have and it shows...
@lgoamity in reality that video showing the clogged filter was a bit hyperbolic. It was probably still working and bypass mode was still an option. However like you said, a sludged engine is still considered a preexisting condition and at any time sludge could clog something important without restore and protect.
Love the video. I'm worried to switch to 5 w30 during my warranty period on my 23 Ram. In sure if something came up they blame the not proper oil spec but I definitely will use it when warranty is over. I change the oil more frequent now.
Watching this in the same boat. Oil changes every 3-4k until warranty is out with 0W-20. Then i plan on switching to 5w30. 2025 Ram
@ 👌
@ 👌 👍
I had a coworker with a 2012 charger with the Pentastar. 270,000 miles, no issues and going strong till he totaled it.
I ran 5w30 in my 2015 hyundai sonata instead of 5w20 and never had the famous bottom end failure that so many others experienced... it's not blocked oil gallery passages with manufacturer metal cuttings, that Hyundai stated was the problem, at least not on the newer motors, it a clearance issue, it's designed for a heavier oil, in the summer months I'll run 5w40.
I have been running 5w30 since buying my 2012 wrangler. No lifter, cam or any other failure at 150k. Now running 0w30. No issues.
I don't understand why the change. Please explain 👍😊
Move up to 5w40
NOOO STICK WITH 5W30
I do 5w20 in my hemi with lucus. Brings idle oil pressure from 32 to 40. No more tick
One thing different that I use to do when changing oil is to prime the filter, obviously you cannot do this so what you can do is depress the gas pedal to the floor, this puts the computer in "clear flood mode" turns off spark and fuel and just crank the engine for 5 to 10 seconds. This will prime the engine. This helps to get rid of that initial rattle that some, or older engines will do.
Depends on your environment. The 0w20 is probably superior in super cold temps, preventing dry starts for prolonged periods. The 5w30 thrives in warmer environments at the cost of reduced power due to the VVT system working better with faster flowiing oils. I personally prefer the 5w20 in cold and warm environments.
0w does Not cling ,dripping off parts. Dry starting while it quickly gets there. 5w stays on parts. Still quickly getting there. 80,000 mile engine burning oil , 100,000 mile engine failures on 0w with 10,000 mile oil changes. Go figure.
I USE 5W20 in My 3.6 Ram,0W20 in my 3.6. Jeep. Change oil every 2500! Use mfg recommend oil. No problems
As a trained engine builder, any power loss is not due to vvt. It would be due to windage in the crankcase. The difference in the viscosities you mentioned wouldn’t even be measurable…milliseconds. The final camshaft timing relative to crank wouldn’t be different, so no power difference factor there.
Yea stop with the cold start lies. If it's not 30 below zero no need for 0 weight to exist ,damn near no need for 5 weight it's just lies like everything else democrats run is.
I’ve adopted the stance of using the spec’d viscosity and a good oil filter cutting the suggested 10k mile OCF in half. I get whatever OEM standard full syn oil is on sale. Keep the filters and fluids changed on time or ahead of schedule. Drive gently. Don’t abuse the equipment.
I recently put the rod and main oil clearance argument to bed, some saying the rod & main clearances were different when they initially recommended 5w-30 for the 3.6 pentastar vs now where they recommend 0w-20 (same exact clearance specs, vvt timing insignificant…milliseconds reaction time), the main constraint is the cold flow characteristics. Given the collective machinists knowledge and the fact they don’t recommend different hydraulic tensioners…cam phasers based on viscosity, 5w is totally fine. And has anyone actually seen the difference in viscosity between a 0 and 5w? It’s relatively nothing if you look at the charts. IE, something like low tenths centistokes.
And the last number, at the 100°C viscosity…. You’d have to go up to a high 40/low 50 weight to get to the viscosity of a 5w or 0w at 40°C!
The low viscosities are there for economy. They don’t care if you get 300k miles out of your engine. They want you to consume.
As to the valvetrain issues…it won’t fix it. It will help mitigate the progression to complete failure. If you don’t have an issue, going to a 5w-30 or 5w-40 will mitigate wear in trunion bearings and timing chain links…which happens to be one reason why Euro oil specs are so stringent.
Personally, I’ve no tick or valvetrain issue. Higher viscosity WILL give a wider margin in internal extreme engine conditions. Specifically, a higher HTHS, High Temp High Shear rating in that regard. That’s the first line of defense, viscosity. The second line is Anti-Wear additives which protect when there IS contact. I’d rather not get to that point. That’s why I personally run 5w-40 Euro spec synthetic. 5w-30 would be a step in the right direction as well.
All this said, many engines will be just fine on the recommended viscosity. The problem is if YOUR engine is an outlier on spec/tolerance stack up/extreme operating conditions. That’s where the higher viscosity/HTHS will offer a wider margin of safety.
I remember you’re other video quite well. I just bought my wife a used 23 grand Cherokee with the Pentastar a couple of weeks ago and have been debating the same dilemma.
Same with the K series hondas 5w30 R&P made it quiet and smooth
We own more than 15 of the 3.6 liter Rams and 1 Durango, '17-'19's, and they are a good balance of fuel economy and performance in a NA, non-GDI engine. No valve train issues yet, just get good at oil filter/cooler housing replacemnts.
My 2014 ram called for 5w20 I’ve ran it since it was brand new and she’s at 199,000 and zero major issues That’s crazy that they switched to zero weight
Mine has 250,000 miles with no problems, I’m not switching
My Issue with a top loaded filter without a check valve is you will always have a dry start. I installed a check valve and it makes those starts much much better. I stumbled onto this Video and I will try this next oil change, and see how the engine runs. I have less than 30K, but it should help.
Nope ! My friend, the problems with penstastar is dry start ! The oil sistem do not hold oil pressure, thats why the valvetrain make noise inmediately after fire up ! Solution, instal a Baxter filter adapter. No more dry start, ticker oil is a no, no in those engine, ticker oil fool the engine, do not make " noise " but the engine run dry because ticker oil take more time to get to vital parts.
We have a 2020 Dodge Durango GT 4wd and a 2023 Jeep Wrangler both with the 3.6L Penastar. I bought both brand new. All my new purchases get oil changes at 700 miles. The Durango has 149k miles running mostly Penzoil Ultra Platnium 0w40 with 10k oil change intervals. I noticed with the 3.6L, it has 30psi + or - 1 psi at all rpms except when the cruise control wants to slow the vehicle down. Then the oil pressure goes to 80psi. The hemi tick is from LOW oil pressure as low as 5psi. Except on the supercharged engines which maintain 30psi.
Oil viscosity is a strange thing. Our 2018 Ram 2500 4wd 6.7L Cummins beast. Has run 5w40 Rotella since that first oil change at 700 miles. The Cummins runs way quieter with the 5w40.
We live near Lancaster, CA in the scorching hot Mohave desert. While the Jeep and the Ram stay local, except for camping trips. The Durango goes to San Francisco every week. Unless I stay in town for overtime or other activities.
My 2016 Ram 1500 4wd Ecodiesel maintains oil pessure between 30-45psi. At 177k that Ecodiesel still runs quiet and smooth. I didn't check the range of oil pressure on the 2012 Dodge Journry or 2014 Ram 1500 3.6L my wife used to have.
Part of the issue of ANY brand vehicle today. Is, how the vehicle is driven, oil pressure, and luck of the draw. Some vehicles have everything perfect, while others are doomed in a short time.
In the event that you lose an engine under warranty and they find out you’ve gone thicker oil you’ll be paying for that engine. I agree with the theme of your video and I am an owner of a 5.0 Coyote Mustang wherein I run the 5W-50 due to my Whipple supercharger.
I did alot of research on this very thing. I came across a thread where an engineer for this very engine said when start stop became a thing they coated the bearings and made changes. That's where I stop and wonder if I should.
Good call using the higher viscosity oil. It will better protect the engine from wear. Fuel savings doesn't mean much if your engines don't last...it's a fools errand, and consumers pay the price (as you mentioned). I have 227,000 miles on a 2006 Toyota Matrix using an API approved full synthetic 5w30 with 5k OCI and OEM filter. My car actually got a service update saying it could use 0w20, not gonna happen.
Fun fact for you valvoline actually is using pentastar v6s in thier lab to text that restore and protect.
The pouring is the most satisfying part. What is the OCI on this engine? Does the engine consume any oil? If so, are you going to measure it and see if VRP reduces it? Thanks.
2022 Dodge Challenger 3.6. Read the manual- 5w-30 is ok to use if "the other oils aren't available." Look at the bottle of synthetic oil with the specs. Chrysler MS-6395 is on the mobil 1 5w30. If the temps are above zero degrees F use it and in the long term your engine will be much happier.
I have a 2023 Gladiator with the V6 Penstar engine. And the owners manual calls for 0-20 wt. oil only.
Do you need a special type of oil filter, specifically for Valvaline "Restore and Protect" motor oil?
Does the book say you can use either or? I have a 2015. Can’t remember what viscosity I put in it at the moment. Most manufacturers give you an option between 2 viscosity you can use depending on your location. I’m almost certain I didn’t use 0 w 20.
My 17 versa started a timing chain noise on startup after the miles increased to 120k I used 10w30 instead of 5w30 and no more noise because in Texas most of the year is warm 😊
I have a 2014 GC. It's got 176k on the odometer. It's been a great engine. I've run 0W-20 but I religiously change the oil every 3K... never 10K. I agree when you said it's a great engine if you maintain it and especially if you change the oil every 3k.
If u live in a warm climate i'd stop using 0w20 it aint good for the engine regardless of how religiously u change it u are better off on 0w30 really depends on your winters etc but agressive driving don't ever do it on 0w20
Sir, what temperature is too cold for 5w30 to handle? I live in Seattle, can I run 5w30 all year without harming my JL Pentastar? Thank you 🙏
The key here is 4-5K oil changes, good oil, maybe a little longer intervals Amsoil or equivalents. That being said in my opinion i think all the ticking noises COULD be subpar parts supplied to FCA.
Isn't that ticking the high pressure fuel injectors?
They use low pressure port injection.
@@tyloughdoesn’t matter. The injectors tick. I’ve got a brand new gladiator and it does it.
Injector noise you can tell the difference
Tick, tick, tick, tick, tick = injectors.
Click, click, click, click, click = valve train.
In my JK that I don’t drive every day I hold the accelerator to the floor to turn off the injectors and crank it for a little bit then stop and start it. Gets rid of the startup clatter and reduces startup wear. Chryslers have had this feature since 1984 with the first year of computers and efi. Don’t need to buy anything.
I just switched over to 0-30 in my JT. I ran an oil analysis on the 0-20 and will do the same on the 0-30. My quick impression ... the engine seems to run quieter and smoother. I've also noticed that the tensioner holds pressure better as well with less clackity clack on start up. I'm still running the 0-20 in my wifes JL and will probably switch that one over as well.
im looking to switch to 0w-30 on my jk. how many miles have you ran it with that oil? and how is cold start up?
Im using castrol edge 5w30 A3 Euro in my 3.6 ram it's thicker at 11.9 cst at 212F HAs real high Zinc and phosphorous.
Id have to see some testing on all this. Got a 2023 hemi it runs 0-20 has no ticking. My grandpa has a 2014 hemi with 120k runs 5-20 no ticking. I imagine most weights of oil will work who knows what is best.
Yeah 0w20 is thin and that's why I do my changes every 3k. I use an oil extractor and my changes are around $20 each time.
BTW if you catch that tick early it's a $9 part and I've watched videos of people doing it themselves in the afternoon. With that done you could potentially get another 100k out of that motor. The bottom end is a solid design and build.
I'm probably in the minority here. I run what the engineers spec because in my simple thinking, their education and experience is likely way more than my "shade tree mechanic", "I've always done it this way" mentality. A good example I found was that on GM's 3.0 diesel, 5.3, and 6.2 engines they had a different oil spec for each engine. And guess what? Different bearing clearance specs for each engine! I know people want to do what's best to protect their investments, but unless you are more experienced in the oil sector than the chief engineers who design the engines, i'd be prone to sticking with what they recommend. To each their own.
‘17 3.6 Pentastar Journey
Says 5w-20, I use 5w-20 44k miles. Add Premium gas to top off tank at 1/2 full every other fill. 👍 I pre-oil filters
The current (upgrade) Pentastar has a completely different valve train then the 2011 version. VVL, roller rockers etc
Yes, it needs a thicker oil, I agree. But, you most likely not hearing the same thing. These have same issue as Ford does with the wipers wearing out in the phasers. Putting a thicker oil in will give you either more time, or save them to begin with. I cant say for sure on the second, but it does seem the oil recommended is truely below grade for its needs and is what is causing the wear, imo. I just know, that so far, I have been able to buy more time and reduce VVT off target error by using 10-30. I wouldnt go much heavier than that tho due to tight bearing clearance. On a looser engine circling the drain I'd go up to 15-40.
Of the 10 million engines made since 2011, about 1% supposedly have faulty rocker arms which fail prematurely. The ticking is usually that issue which ain't gonna be fixed by changing oil viscosity... $2-3K in engine work will fix it...
I used to work for an oil company. And what they change is the clearances between the bearings and whatever the shaft that is moving in between them.
Oil is 30 - 40% of your engine's cooling. If you put a thicker oil in an engine that has less clearances between the bearings you slow down the gallons per minute flow.
This makes the oil and the engine parts that the oil cools run hotter. This causes the metals to expand more and makes clearances even closer causing the problem of gallons per minute flow to get worse increasing wear.
If they were not making the clearances closer in the bearings, they would have a major problem with oil pressure drop, right?
So you solve one problem and cause another. And if the engine you happen to do this on has a baby system which works off of oil pressure, and you do this which changes that pressure. You just messed up how that system works.
The fix for reducing wear is to add zinc to the oil. It's not going to stop the ticking completely, but it will reduce valve train wear.
A few years of the Corvette had a similar problem. The camshaft was not made from a hardened enough steel so the lobes would wear flat
Zinc additive was the solution to this problem and it worked without changing oil thickness.
Now, if your engine has 100,000 miles or close to it. And you live in a climate that mainly stays warm, then you could get by with thicker oil. But,if you live in a mainly cold climate, you are slowing down how fast the oil gets to your engine parts on a cold morning when it really counts. I would not go more than two steps in viscosity if you do this.
I had an '05 hemi I changed to 10w40. It had a sensor I did not know about that shut the motor down because it sensed the wrong weight oil. That ended up costinge $500 in new sensors and computer reflash so the car would run.
10w-40? No wonder why it shut down.
I run 5 30 synthetic in my vehicles, never had a problem
I was just wonder about that now you change my mine definitely I have the same engine and I always go by manufacture recommendation . do you use the same grade of oil in winter ?
This has been a hot topic on the forums lately. Are you on JeepForum or Jeep Garage? I've posted quite a bit on it in those places. Either way, agree with this 100%. I'll be curious to track your long term results.
Did you switch to 5W-30 in this video? Is this the first time you’re putting 530 in that vehicle?
Correct me if I'm wrong are they going to thinner oils because of tighter tolerances and better oils?
I worked with people from Valvoline and Royal Purple, Royal Purple stated they could go 15,000 miles between oil changes with filter changes every 7500. I never went past 7000 and that's with quality synthetic oils. Can anyone answer why they changed to thinner oils?
I always run what the manufacturer recommends, my 2025 grand Cherokee is 0w-20 full synthetic.
If it made it to 200k with 0W-20 why change?
Did you watch the video?
@ yes sir, but it still does not answer my question. If 0W20 is so bad why did it make it to 200K?
Its perfectly safe to use 5w30 there is a video with a valvoline engineer he stated it can ve used for aggressive driving and towing and warm climates
Best oil to use is Castrol european oil just so u know the castrol 0w30 euro protects better than the north american 5w30
No common sense, that's for sure. Too many people think they know better.
I never use any oil below a 5w30 in everything I own. My wife has a Toyota 4Runner and it has had 5w30 from the first oil change. The lower oil weight is being pushed by the EPA.
Question
Using 5w30 instead 0w20 will it storten the engine life? I've seen this engine with over 300,000 miles using 20 weight oil.
My truck calls for 5w-30 conventional oil, but I can use 10w-30. My truck has 369k miles now. I use 5w-30 in the winter, because thin oil flows faster in cold weather. I use 10w-30 in the spring , summer, and fall months. That works for me, and my old truck still runs real good and can drive long trips without any problems.
Will 5w30 prevent new pentastar 3.6 engine tick ?
did you REALLY have to remind us that "the 2000s" was 15 years ago?? 😪
Lol
Buddy i have been using “Shell Gas Truck 5W-30 “ in my wifes 3.6 for 140,000 miles and engine is quite as a mouse . Runs perfect and doesnt burn a single drop of oil in 5.000 miles between oil changes .. now shell doesnt make the shell gas truck oil anymore , so Shell and Penzoil ( same company) said use penzoil 5w-30 ultra platinum in its place. So next oil change it and my jeep will get the penzoil .. as i just used the last 5 quart jug of the shell i had in my Jeep..
Penzoil is garbage,,,the Shell gas is fine not the penzoil
u are better off using Castrol 5w30 European oil has a higher VI index than North American oils BMW spec I use it no issues never add oil another good one is Amsoil 5w30 Euro oil....Penzoil is garbage lot of bad reviews lately and known to cause leaks
@leecrumble3921 zinc protects the engine its excellent oil people get worried about that makes no sense a catalytic is cheaper than engine replacement
@leecrumble3921 also its excellent on gdi engines even recommends it
@leecrumble3921 and its 0w30 not so bad of an oil
When an engine has that cylinder shut down for a millage, it goes to lighter oil
So, you have 200,000 miles using 0W-20 and now you think the oil is not good enough? Huh.
With the wear on the piston rings and valve train, it’s probably a good idea to slightly up the thickness of the oil get even more miles out of it. He’s not wrong.
@jez7433 200,000.miles today is nothing. A vehicle today with 200,000 is like a car in the 80's with 50,000 miles. New cars today will all go a.minimum of a million miles with almost no repairs.
@@lawnboy8401 dreamer.
@moonbounce Seriously though 200,000 miles is really nothing for today's modern cars. Even a vehilce that is not maintained and neglected should get a good 500,000 miles. Just saying
@@lawnboy8401 ok, I just respectfully disagree.
My v8 started with a 5w30 spec. It now has a 0w20 spec. Looking to change it back to original spec oil
My 2017 Pacifica run around 30-32psi with 0W20. Do you see a slight oil pressure bump with 5W30?
In 2017 they added Variable Valve Lift. It’s a new rocker arm with 2 profiles, with a pin holding it in high lift (default position) with oil pushing the lock pin to go to low lift.
I’m switching at my next change. Having a issue with #2 valve stuck high. I think it’s a stuck pin or partially plugged lifter. Compression is good. Not that noise (THe fuel injectors are pretty noisy for non-DI). Running some cleaner through it. I think the original owner 3 years ago used the longer extended intervals so might have some older varnish or sludge in there.
I believe the bearing clearances didnt change from the older to newer, so it’s middle of the road that will accept 30 or 20w like BMW.
Is that not the injectors?
Did the same thing with my 2015 Honda Accord, sounds much quieter with 5W-20 , Honda calls for 0 W-20.
I own a 2021 wrangler with 3.6 pentastar. It calls for 0w20 oil, the jeep has 95k miles. This will be the third time using 5w30 oil. I do hear the difference in noise level coming from the engine but l have not seen any change in oil psig or mpgs. I drive 2400-3000 miles every month mostly highway miles.
Mobile 1 is not as good as it use to be because I get noticeable valve tappit noise.
Switch to Pennzoil full synthetic and no more noise.
I've ran 5w30 in my 18 jeep wrangler jk since new 126,000 miles no issues great engine don't fall for it needs thin oil bullish**
what oil do you recommend jeep patroit 2.4?
what oil do you recommend on Challenger 5.7
I've been doing the debate with my 2014 ram about going to 5w30 myself.I only have 64k on it so I hope I don't have to much damage done to the top end
its not the oil, its because of the poor poor tolerances of the engine parts =P or the user, BUT 0w20 is way to thin for high performance driving
I have 2 vans and run them both on 5-30 syn, I believe they were supposed to run 5-30 but do to economy ratings they went to 5-20