Thanks for making this i understand one thing that YZF and FZ1 1ST gen both were same actually i my bike mechanical seal failed and i am looking to replace it Thanks for you time....
Hay John, First I wanted to thank you for making this series of videos of rebuilding your R1. I'v ben using them to help rebuild my 02 R1. Anyway I came across the same problem you had after you put the water/oil pump in your bike. I found that the washer that goes on before the drive gear was hanging up every time i bolted the gear on.
One can not purchase the complete OEM water/oil pump any more for the 2001-2003 R1, but you can purchase a complete water pump assembly for the 2004 R1. I purchased an '04 Yamaha R1 complete water/oil pump assembly and will be testing to see if it fits AND works properly in my 2001 R1 once it arrives. I also have all the seals and bearings necessary to rebuild my original 2001 R1 water pump, but wanted to check and see if an '04 will work instead.
Follow up: a 2004 R1 complete water/oil pump assembly will NOT work in an earlier model year R1. Some of the oil pump passages are different and will not match earlier versions.
Ho John...not sure if u see this but a big thank u for all the videos. Hey informative and helpful. Just one question...I have a 03 r1 that's leaking a very small amount of coolant through the weeping hole under the oill pan. What exactly is happening and what particular seal would correct the problem? Thanks again!!
R1's are known for running hot; getting 100 C quickly is perfectly normal. Fan will kick on right after that. Water pumps on the R1 are only hard to remove because you have to remove the belly pan to get access to them (its internal to the motor).
Hi john ..thanks for your reply. There are 2 seals on the water pup side according to your video. First there is a bearing then a seal then a cap piece known as the water pump seal. Is it the later seal you are referring to? Thanks again.
Awesome videos. Where did you get this factory manual? I'm rebuilding my 2006 r1 motor and it's similar to yours but a little different. For example, as far as I know I do not have that big generator thing on the side of my cylinder that everyone says is so hard to get off. But I really need my book for this for torque specs, but I don't have one.
Hi John, hope you are well. I changed on the components on a water pump and when I put cover back on the impeller is grinding against the cover, but the seal is all the way in. Where could I have gone wrong?
Oh no, sorry to hear, rebuilding these water/oil pumps is really hard to get right, I had the same problem you are having, the pump you see me rebuilding in this video also had a grinding noise after installation, so, I gave up rebuilding it again, and just bought a used replacement pump, the good thing is that you can replace the pump without splitting the engine case, its tricky but there's enough access from the bottom of the engine after you drop the oil pan to do it.
How did u get the bearing out of the water pump housing? I cant seem to get much of a bite on the edge of the bearing. Tried a puller as well, no luck. Thanks
I explain in the video, I used a good solid punch with a sharp flat edge on it and beat the holy hell out of it to get it out, and applied heat with a torch to the outside of the housing to expand the metal just a little bit. it was a bitch
Sounds like your water pump is leaking through a seal, and coming out that drain pipe. My recollection is that drain pipe goes up to the water pump impeller shaft area, so probably the seal on the coolant side of the impeller shaft
Hi John, I'm having trouble with the cooling. Everything is fine until it gets hot, 100 -105 degrees. My fan has kicked in by this point and it all cools down. The radiator draws in the coolant from the expansion tank but most of it has been expelled. I've ran the radiator full of coolant but with an empty expansion tank and the coolant still expands until it is expelled from the expansion tank. I spoke to a proper yamaha mechanic on the phone and he sugested that the head gasket might have gone and is pressuring the system somehow. There is no water in my oil or vice versa. If i keep the bike moving it stays at the normal 70 degrees but obviously at some point I encouter traffic. I've sourced another radiator cap and cyclinder pressure gauges and when they arrive I'll get busy. Any thoughts on this? Did you have cooling issues with that worn out pump?
I have not had any cooling issues. Radiator fluid being expelled from the radiator into the overflow bottle is not good at all. I'm no expert, but the only way the fluid would be pushing out of the radiator is due to pressure, and pressure would come from the fluid boiling, or ??? Wouldn't hurt to replace the radiator cap, but I tend to think the head gasket theory is a good place to start. Sounds like your water pump is working ok (otherwise, when the fan kicks on, the temps would not come down). Good luck
SupermotoJohn I fitted the new radiator cap first before trying anything else as its obviously the easiest to do. All fixed and working fine. Thanks for the vidoes, I think I might have a go at fixing my old engine having seen how to go about it.
mrcycles.com is where I purchased most of my replacement parts. For the water/oil pump I would recommend you find a good used one on ebay, it will be most cost effective.
Thanks for making this i understand one thing that YZF and FZ1 1ST gen both were same actually i my bike mechanical seal failed and i am looking to replace it Thanks for you time....
Hay John, First I wanted to thank you for making this series of videos of rebuilding your R1. I'v ben using them to help rebuild my 02 R1. Anyway I came across the same problem you had after you put the water/oil pump in your bike. I found that the washer that goes on before the drive gear was hanging up every time i bolted the gear on.
No, not the metal cap, but the rubber seal just below it. My recollection is the weeping pipe sits between that seal and the cap.
One can not purchase the complete OEM water/oil pump any more for the 2001-2003 R1, but you can purchase a complete water pump assembly for the 2004 R1. I purchased an '04 Yamaha R1 complete water/oil pump assembly and will be testing to see if it fits AND works properly in my 2001 R1 once it arrives. I also have all the seals and bearings necessary to rebuild my original 2001 R1 water pump, but wanted to check and see if an '04 will work instead.
Follow up: a 2004 R1 complete water/oil pump assembly will NOT work in an earlier model year R1. Some of the oil pump passages are different and will not match earlier versions.
Ho John...not sure if u see this but a big thank u for all the videos. Hey informative and helpful. Just one question...I have a 03 r1 that's leaking a very small amount of coolant through the weeping hole under the oill pan. What exactly is happening and what particular seal would correct the problem? Thanks again!!
R1's are known for running hot; getting 100 C quickly is perfectly normal. Fan will kick on right after that. Water pumps on the R1 are only hard to remove because you have to remove the belly pan to get access to them (its internal to the motor).
Hi john ..thanks for your reply. There are 2 seals on the water pup side according to your video. First there is a bearing then a seal then a cap piece known as the water pump seal. Is it the later seal you are referring to? Thanks again.
Awesome videos. Where did you get this factory manual? I'm rebuilding my 2006 r1 motor and it's similar to yours but a little different. For example, as far as I know I do not have that big generator thing on the side of my cylinder that everyone says is so hard to get off. But I really need my book for this for torque specs, but I don't have one.
Hi John, hope you are well. I changed on the components on a water pump and when I put cover back on the impeller is grinding against the cover, but the seal is all the way in. Where could I have gone wrong?
Oh no, sorry to hear, rebuilding these water/oil pumps is really hard to get right, I had the same problem you are having, the pump you see me rebuilding in this video also had a grinding noise after installation, so, I gave up rebuilding it again, and just bought a used replacement pump, the good thing is that you can replace the pump without splitting the engine case, its tricky but there's enough access from the bottom of the engine after you drop the oil pan to do it.
How did u get the bearing out of the water pump housing? I cant seem to get much of a bite on the edge of the bearing. Tried a puller as well, no luck. Thanks
I explain in the video, I used a good solid punch with a sharp flat edge on it and beat the holy hell out of it to get it out, and applied heat with a torch to the outside of the housing to expand the metal just a little bit. it was a bitch
Can replacing oil seal in the water pump avoid coolant mixing with the oil? Or is this sign of a blown head gasket?
Coolant in the oil is almost always a compromised head gasket. You need to check that first.
Awesome Videos!! Thank you for your time.
Sounds like your water pump is leaking through a seal, and coming out that drain pipe. My recollection is that drain pipe goes up to the water pump impeller shaft area, so probably the seal on the coolant side of the impeller shaft
Hi John, I'm having trouble with the cooling. Everything is fine until it gets hot, 100 -105 degrees. My fan has kicked in by this point and it all cools down. The radiator draws in the coolant from the expansion tank but most of it has been expelled. I've ran the radiator full of coolant but with an empty expansion tank and the coolant still expands until it is expelled from the expansion tank. I spoke to a proper yamaha mechanic on the phone and he sugested that the head gasket might have gone and is pressuring the system somehow. There is no water in my oil or vice versa. If i keep the bike moving it stays at the normal 70 degrees but obviously at some point I encouter traffic. I've sourced another radiator cap and cyclinder pressure gauges and when they arrive I'll get busy. Any thoughts on this? Did you have cooling issues with that worn out pump?
I have not had any cooling issues. Radiator fluid being expelled from the radiator into the overflow bottle is not good at all. I'm no expert, but the only way the fluid would be pushing out of the radiator is due to pressure, and pressure would come from the fluid boiling, or ??? Wouldn't hurt to replace the radiator cap, but I tend to think the head gasket theory is a good place to start. Sounds like your water pump is working ok (otherwise, when the fan kicks on, the temps would not come down). Good luck
SupermotoJohn I fitted the new radiator cap first before trying anything else as its obviously the easiest to do. All fixed and working fine. Thanks for the vidoes, I think I might have a go at fixing my old engine having seen how to go about it.
How do you remove the pipe that attaches from the water pump to the weep hole?
The water pump and the oil pump are a single unit on the R1, so what you see at the beginning of this video is the combined unit.
Hi john how did you remove the water pump sprocket and is it a reverse nut?
I used a pneumatic ratchet to remove the sprocket bolts. I don't think it's a reverse thread but I don't really remember.
Ok thank you, I've tried using a rench it just won't budge
Ballpark around $1500 USD. You can rebuild for a LOT less, I opted to replace valves and pistons - that's a big expense.
mrcycles.com is where I purchased most of my replacement parts. For the water/oil pump I would recommend you find a good used one on ebay, it will be most cost effective.
fukin hell mine waz worse worse then hell.
..beat it like u say..lump hammer..still took bout 3 hours..