I forgot the pigment numbers for a few colours, oops! Potters Pink = PR233 and Perylene Violet = PV29. Let me know if I've missed any others. I can't swatch and talk at the same time so I have to do a voice over afterwards, lol!
My unedited footage was much longer, but I cut out a lot of off-camera brush washing, and sped the rest up so it wouldn't be too painfully long. I then had to talk quickly in the voiceover to try and keep up with it all, haha! I'm glad it worked out well in the end though. 😆
@@BeckyTregear I got some Old Holland 1/2 pans from Jackson's during a sale a few years ago. I'm glad to have them because the colors are beautiful, but OH isn't easy to find in the US, and then you can only get the super expensive little tubes. I sympathize about shipping charges to Australia. I sent some M. Graham paint samples to a friend in New South Wales and the cost was shocking. But at least you have koalas!
Very good but fast to write stuff down. Interesting to see the colours . 30 years ago I filled a large pallet and didn't use colour swatching . My colour choices have changed as well so finding these videos is great.
It's so soothing to watch people swatch watercolors! I don't know the use of Davys Grey but it looks a bit like "palette dirt" to me. I guess there's white in it too. Opera Rose is very popular in botanical art as far as I know and I would use it only in a sketchbook.
I love swatching dot charts for relaxation! Davy's Grey is a very murky greenish grey colour...not one of my favourites, lol. I do like Opera Rose but as you say it is best kept out of the light as much as possible. Though I have never really seen it fade too much, just maybe become more dull and less flourescent.
@@BeckyTregear I had a very old pdf of Winsor & Newton's color chart and on this one they had an explanation too. They said their lowest lightfastness was rated as D or something. I guess they have improved their formula over time since then. B is now their lowest lightfast rating but it's still a bit confusing to me. Anyway... I got a big tube of Permanent Rose for Christmas. I just love this hue of pink.
@@BeckyTregear I've found pigment that has no number, it's quinacridone carmine, PR n/a, "it is not assigned a color index name, according to the Society of Dyers and Colorists, because it is a proprietary, crystallized compound of two separate pigments" Info from here: handprint.com/HP/WCL/waterr.html#PR%20N/A
Opera Rose is not fugitive because of the fluorescent element. The fluorescent dyes absorb sunlight and emit in the slightly ultraviolet spectrum. PR122 is fugitive.
It has been a while since I filmed this...yes I meant to say it's the fluorescent dye that's added which fades. I want to lightfast test all of my opera colours to see what actually happens to them. 😊
I have a suggestion with the Prussian Blue - I have that in my pallet and it re-wets just fine. So I suspect it's one of those colours that's better to buy in the pan for over the tube, or use fresh from the tube. Mine was bought as a pan and works fine. Winsor and Newton have a slightly different formula for colours in pans and tubes. If you have the tube and wish to dry it into your own pan, consider adding a bit of glycerin or honey - I've done this with potters pink successfully and some of Daniel Smiths colours which wouldn't re-wet. Hope that helps.
Here in the US Amazon offers the 48 tube set for around $250 and the 96 set for $600. I purchased the smaller set and purchased the rest with coupons from hobby store and jacksons uk.
Thank you soooo much for this video, Becky! I’d like to ask you wich W&N red would be rhe same color as the pyrol red in the Daniel Smith range, can you please help me with that? I’d appreciate it so much! Cheers from Brasil
I'm pretty sure that would be Winsor Red, as that has pigment PR254, which is the same as what Daniel Smith uses for its Pyrrol Red. Even the same pigment can differ slightly between brands, so bear that in mind, that they may not look exactly the same as each other. But it's pretty close!
Great video! I swatched along with you. Now there are 109 colors. Most of the new ones are cadmium free. I’m not sure about getting them because there is no pigment information. I’m wondering what your thoughts are.
My video is a bit out of date now, haha! 😂 I haven't looked into the new cadmium-free paints yet, but I know a few brands are doing this more frequently now, using alternative pigments. I still use cadmium paints as they are lovely and vibrant, but care should be taken because of their potential toxicity. Hand washing after use and not drinking the paint water, lol!
TYF sharing this ..... very interesting ! I did not know it was possible to obtain dot cards for W+N and I'm in the UK. Ive tried Cobalt violet from many brands and W+N is by far the best .... much better than Daniel Smith
Various art shops have been spruiking the dot cards here for a couple of years or so. Cobalt Violet is my arch nemesis because it usually doesn't behave very well in gum arabic, but it's such a beautiful colour, haha! I might look into getting a W&N tube if it is better than other brands. 😆
@@BeckyTregear Agree ..... cobalts in general seem to struggle with the Gum arabic. I use Cobalt violet a lot and certainly the W+N variety is the most well behaved .... some other brands seem to leave a milky residue on the pallet ! ..... when it comes to Cobalt turquoise light... which I also use a lot of ...... I use W+N but I also like the Sennelier Turquoise blue .... bit more blue and the honey gives a runny consistancy from the tube but also behaves well. Thanks again for your video .... really enjoyed it
Thank you for this swatching video! I have a couple of W&N colors on my palette, even right now having Brown madder as my warm red 😅 I have a doubt, as both cerulean blues are far away from each other in this dot chart... Is the red shade very different from the normal one? I have the normal one, and I thought about searching a Cerulean blue chromium, but it's very expensive where I live. I wonder if the W&N cerulean red shade could be a good alternative 🤔
Sorry for the delay, I had to find the swatch chart again, lol. From what I remember cerulean blue red shade was a bit easier to rewet. Looking at them both they do look a bit different. Original cerulean is brighter and leaning towards the turquoise whereas red shade is more muted and a bit warmer (towards cobalt). They're not hugely different, but next to cerulean is manganese blue hue that looks very similar, but without the granulation. Manganese is series 2 whereas both ceruleans are series 3 and more expensive. So red shade would be a fine alternative but just a little more muted than regular cerulean, but they should be the same price. Manganese Blue Hue is a non granulating alternative at a cheaper price. I hope that helps, and answers your question! Also Daniel Smith's cerulean blue chromium is an excellent version too.
Hi Becky....have you seen the W&N free info sheet on Mixing Australian ( landscape) Colours with their profess series colours? The combos are just beautiful...I saw it in my local Eckersleys (Sydney) yesterday..thought you might like if you haven't come across it yet :))
These bottom of the barrel replacements they’re using for Quin Gold now that PO49 AND PO48 are going away are just shameful, to a Quin Gold lover. 😢 Look how all the transparent gold colors just get completely overwhelmed by the red-brown mud… Whereas Quin Gold & even the Quin Burnt Orange + Nickel Azo Yellow replacement had a much more subtle transition from a very rich, earthy mass tone (which would distribute like a sediment as you began to dilute it wet into wet on paper) to a super clean, vibrant, luminous gold-yellow. You might get some of the golden brown Earth tones settling at the edges of a more dilute wash, but I don’t ever remember seeing what we see in this swatch, where you can tell that the golden yellow color (similar to Nickel Azo Yellow in dilution) is visible underneath, but you also get this muck of red/violet-brown sitting on top, across the whole swatch… That’s not something I’ve ever had to be careful to avoid using the Quin Burnt Orange based replacement formula, but now QBO is going away too. Truly unfortunate. At this point I’d rather use a Nickel Azo Yellow on its own for the diluted golden yellows, or perhaps some of the better & more transparent of the Indian Yellow formulations if I wanted something a bit more yellow-orange, & if I wanted something earthier I’d just use something Earthier separately. Maybe we can find a better replacement formula eventually that won’t go extinct, but for the time being I’m not seeing even the best paint manufacturers really finding a great alternative. The funny thing is that I have to imagine there’d be a market to manufacture & sell Quin Gold as a paint pigment independent of the car industry… Maybe it’s just extremely expensive to set up a lab with the equipment necessary to synthesize it on a mass scale, because otherwise it’s hard for me to imagine why someone hasn’t done so by now.
It's heartbreaking when beautiful pigments are discontinued, and there is just nothing else which can replace them. 😭 I'm a big fan of Nickel Azo Yellow, so hopefully that stays around for a long time!
I purchased a Winsor and newton dot card about a year ago and my dots were a lot smaller than yours...the paint dots that came on my dot cards were so small i barely i enough to even swatch- they were all smaller then the Rose Dore dot on your card...I thought that was just how Winsor and Newton made their dot cards, Im super surprised to see such large dots on your card and now Im annoyed bc I got screwed...lol. Anyway great video, thanks for sharing💓
Oh wow that is so annoying!!! 😭😭 I get mad when one or two dots are tiny or have fallen off, let alone a whole card. And they charge heaps for them too. 😵
Just like perylene and terre verte, they made the same mistake with Prussian blue and Antwerp blue. The Prussian is the one that is deep and intense whereas Antwerp is greyish and muted.
Thanks for letting me know, I was wondering about that because all other Prussian Blues I've encountered have been as you describe. So annoying that there are mistakes on the card!
Even more worse i buyed years ago their prussian blue full pan. and based this chart they indeed put antwerp blue in prussian blue case. same pigment but something different what i dont know. and luckily they send new pan to me. even i buyed them many years ago but forgotted contact factory. but still my viridian is very weak even other brand. very likely i dont try it anymore even its granulating pigment.
Viridian, made properly, isn't going to compete with phthalo for intensity. However, it doesn't fade in tints as quickly as phthalo and doesn't stain like phthalo, unless it is goosed with phthalo surreptitiously.
Yes, I had a quarter pan in a tiny bijou box, very old. I couldn't get any colour out of it. And as W&N had problems with their prussian blue for some time I replaced it with phthalo blue, more versatile anyway. Got to use solid pans in those old tins or they will rust, as the paint has no casing, so I needed a brand with extruded half pans. Pleased to say they've sorted put their prussian blue for now and I got a fantastic half pan just tried last night.
I guess it's one of those bright pinks which a lot of botanical artists love. Paul Rubens included one in their floral set, but interestingly it has no fluorescent dye labelled, and is shown as a single pigment - I'm so curious to know if it is more lightfast or will also fade with time.
I forgot the pigment numbers for a few colours, oops! Potters Pink = PR233 and Perylene Violet = PV29. Let me know if I've missed any others. I can't swatch and talk at the same time so I have to do a voice over afterwards, lol!
Transparent yellow and Green Gold are truly magic. I love how they change from ugly dark blobs to shining bright yellow like sunrise.
I agree! I love transparent colours like that which come alive when water is added!
WOW,
What a wonderful presentation of Windsor Newton's, love the colors, Wishing you more and more success 🌸🌺💐🌹
Thank you 😊
Thank you very much Becky for sharing, this is extremely helpful. :^)
I'm glad, and you're welcome! 😊
Great video 🎉. I recently discovered their Smalt Blue which must be new. It’s a wonderful purple blue shade. Thanks 🙏 for taking the time to share ❤
I'll have to look out for that! Thank you 😊
I really appreciate the way you did this! A lot of these types of videos are like two or three hours long! So glad to find this video :-)
My unedited footage was much longer, but I cut out a lot of off-camera brush washing, and sped the rest up so it wouldn't be too painfully long. I then had to talk quickly in the voiceover to try and keep up with it all, haha! I'm glad it worked out well in the end though. 😆
Thank you for sharing your swatching of the Winsor Newton watercolors. I found it very informative and helpful.
I'm glad! 😊
I really love Old Holland's Manganese Blue. It's gorgeous.
I'd love to get some Old Holland watercolours someday! They are not available in Australia. 😪
@@BeckyTregear I got some Old Holland 1/2 pans from Jackson's during a sale a few years ago. I'm glad to have them because the colors are beautiful, but OH isn't easy to find in the US, and then you can only get the super expensive little tubes. I sympathize about shipping charges to Australia. I sent some M. Graham paint samples to a friend in New South Wales and the cost was shocking. But at least you have koalas!
Wow I really enjoyed watching that!
Very good but fast to write stuff down. Interesting to see the colours . 30 years ago I filled a large pallet and didn't use colour swatching . My colour choices have changed as well so finding these videos is great.
I'm glad it was helpful! I had to speed it up a bit because the real time swatching took hours and everyone would have fallen asleep.😂
Thanks for the color explanation :)
Wonderful video and information. Thanks.
Thanks for this, I just ordered a set of 18. Very helpful 😀🐝
I love how helpful your swatching videos are.
Thank you! :-)
Thanks! This is very helpful. 👍
I'm glad! Thank you for watching :-)
W&N dot cards used to have such generous amount of paint! Just got mine and it has like a quarter of paint compared to yours:(
I was quite surprised at how much these had on them too. Some dot cards are super miserly! 😱
Super helpful! thank you so much for creating this video, just placed my order
It's so soothing to watch people swatch watercolors!
I don't know the use of Davys Grey but it looks a bit like "palette dirt" to me. I guess there's white in it too.
Opera Rose is very popular in botanical art as far as I know and I would use it only in a sketchbook.
I love swatching dot charts for relaxation! Davy's Grey is a very murky greenish grey colour...not one of my favourites, lol. I do like Opera Rose but as you say it is best kept out of the light as much as possible. Though I have never really seen it fade too much, just maybe become more dull and less flourescent.
@@BeckyTregear I had a very old pdf of Winsor & Newton's color chart and on this one they had an explanation too. They said their lowest lightfastness was rated as D or something. I guess they have improved their formula over time since then. B is now their lowest lightfast rating but it's still a bit confusing to me. Anyway... I got a big tube of Permanent Rose for Christmas. I just love this hue of pink.
So so so great swatchaton 😍 thank you!
I love Winsor orange (it's first in second row).
Maybe carmine is done of those little bugs?
Their orange is lovely! Quite possibly with the carmine, I am sure it is an old fashioned pigment.
@@BeckyTregear I've found pigment that has no number, it's quinacridone carmine, PR n/a, "it is not assigned a color index name, according to the Society of Dyers and Colorists, because it is a proprietary, crystallized compound of two separate pigments"
Info from here:
handprint.com/HP/WCL/waterr.html#PR%20N/A
Opera Rose is not fugitive because of the fluorescent element. The fluorescent dyes absorb sunlight and emit in the slightly ultraviolet spectrum. PR122 is fugitive.
It has been a while since I filmed this...yes I meant to say it's the fluorescent dye that's added which fades. I want to lightfast test all of my opera colours to see what actually happens to them. 😊
"PR122 is fugitive." Incorrect. PR122 is lightfastness II. The fugitive portion is rhodamine.
I have a suggestion with the Prussian Blue - I have that in my pallet and it re-wets just fine. So I suspect it's one of those colours that's better to buy in the pan for over the tube, or use fresh from the tube. Mine was bought as a pan and works fine. Winsor and Newton have a slightly different formula for colours in pans and tubes. If you have the tube and wish to dry it into your own pan, consider adding a bit of glycerin or honey - I've done this with potters pink successfully and some of Daniel Smiths colours which wouldn't re-wet. Hope that helps.
Thank you! I think some colours really don't dry well and you're right that it would be better straight from the tube, or get the pan version. 🙂
Here in the US Amazon offers the 48 tube set for around $250 and the 96 set for $600. I purchased the smaller set and purchased the rest with coupons from hobby store and jacksons uk.
I don't even know what they would cost here, but likely more than that, haha! Jackson's has reasonable prices at least :-)
@@BeckyTregear the best prices were from art stores that offered coupons but they dont carry the whole line.
Thank you soooo much for this video, Becky! I’d like to ask you wich W&N red would be rhe same color as the pyrol red in the Daniel Smith range, can you please help me with that? I’d appreciate it so much! Cheers from Brasil
I'm pretty sure that would be Winsor Red, as that has pigment PR254, which is the same as what Daniel Smith uses for its Pyrrol Red. Even the same pigment can differ slightly between brands, so bear that in mind, that they may not look exactly the same as each other. But it's pretty close!
Great video! I swatched along with you. Now there are 109 colors. Most of the new ones are cadmium free. I’m not sure about getting them because there is no pigment information. I’m wondering what your thoughts are.
My video is a bit out of date now, haha! 😂 I haven't looked into the new cadmium-free paints yet, but I know a few brands are doing this more frequently now, using alternative pigments. I still use cadmium paints as they are lovely and vibrant, but care should be taken because of their potential toxicity. Hand washing after use and not drinking the paint water, lol!
i swatches very little of the daniel smith 238 dot chart, then i used them in an actual painting
Great idea!
TYF sharing this ..... very interesting ! I did not know it was possible to obtain dot cards for W+N and I'm in the UK. Ive tried Cobalt violet from many brands and W+N is by far the best .... much better than Daniel Smith
Various art shops have been spruiking the dot cards here for a couple of years or so. Cobalt Violet is my arch nemesis because it usually doesn't behave very well in gum arabic, but it's such a beautiful colour, haha! I might look into getting a W&N tube if it is better than other brands. 😆
@@BeckyTregear Agree ..... cobalts in general seem to struggle with the Gum arabic. I use Cobalt violet a lot and certainly the W+N variety is the most well behaved .... some other brands seem to leave a milky residue on the pallet ! ..... when it comes to Cobalt turquoise light... which I also use a lot of ...... I use W+N but I also like the Sennelier Turquoise blue .... bit more blue and the honey gives a runny consistancy from the tube but also behaves well. Thanks again for your video .... really enjoyed it
I just fell in love with the Green Gold.. too bad I just purchased Winsor Red, otherwise I would’ve changed it for the Green Gold
Green gold is a favourite of mine in a number of brands. Red gold too. The two together are excellent.👌 Winsor Red is a good colour too!
Thank you for this swatching video! I have a couple of W&N colors on my palette, even right now having Brown madder as my warm red 😅
I have a doubt, as both cerulean blues are far away from each other in this dot chart... Is the red shade very different from the normal one? I have the normal one, and I thought about searching a Cerulean blue chromium, but it's very expensive where I live. I wonder if the W&N cerulean red shade could be a good alternative 🤔
Sorry for the delay, I had to find the swatch chart again, lol. From what I remember cerulean blue red shade was a bit easier to rewet. Looking at them both they do look a bit different. Original cerulean is brighter and leaning towards the turquoise whereas red shade is more muted and a bit warmer (towards cobalt). They're not hugely different, but next to cerulean is manganese blue hue that looks very similar, but without the granulation. Manganese is series 2 whereas both ceruleans are series 3 and more expensive. So red shade would be a fine alternative but just a little more muted than regular cerulean, but they should be the same price. Manganese Blue Hue is a non granulating alternative at a cheaper price. I hope that helps, and answers your question! Also Daniel Smith's cerulean blue chromium is an excellent version too.
@@BeckyTregear Thank you!! I'll check what's available around here between these colors 🎨🤔
Hi Becky....have you seen the W&N free info sheet on Mixing Australian ( landscape) Colours with their profess series colours? The combos are just beautiful...I saw it in my local Eckersleys (Sydney) yesterday..thought you might like if you haven't come across it yet :))
@@FiddlecatLilo I haven't seen that one; will look out for it! 😊
@@BeckyTregear if you can't find one in your local art store, it was just sitting with W&N supplies,let me know and I can send you a pic of it :))
These bottom of the barrel replacements they’re using for Quin Gold now that PO49 AND PO48 are going away are just shameful, to a Quin Gold lover. 😢 Look how all the transparent gold colors just get completely overwhelmed by the red-brown mud… Whereas Quin Gold & even the Quin Burnt Orange + Nickel Azo Yellow replacement had a much more subtle transition from a very rich, earthy mass tone (which would distribute like a sediment as you began to dilute it wet into wet on paper) to a super clean, vibrant, luminous gold-yellow. You might get some of the golden brown Earth tones settling at the edges of a more dilute wash, but I don’t ever remember seeing what we see in this swatch, where you can tell that the golden yellow color (similar to Nickel Azo Yellow in dilution) is visible underneath, but you also get this muck of red/violet-brown sitting on top, across the whole swatch… That’s not something I’ve ever had to be careful to avoid using the Quin Burnt Orange based replacement formula, but now QBO is going away too. Truly unfortunate. At this point I’d rather use a Nickel Azo Yellow on its own for the diluted golden yellows, or perhaps some of the better & more transparent of the Indian Yellow formulations if I wanted something a bit more yellow-orange, & if I wanted something earthier I’d just use something Earthier separately. Maybe we can find a better replacement formula eventually that won’t go extinct, but for the time being I’m not seeing even the best paint manufacturers really finding a great alternative.
The funny thing is that I have to imagine there’d be a market to manufacture & sell Quin Gold as a paint pigment independent of the car industry… Maybe it’s just extremely expensive to set up a lab with the equipment necessary to synthesize it on a mass scale, because otherwise it’s hard for me to imagine why someone hasn’t done so by now.
It's heartbreaking when beautiful pigments are discontinued, and there is just nothing else which can replace them. 😭 I'm a big fan of Nickel Azo Yellow, so hopefully that stays around for a long time!
I purchased a Winsor and newton dot card about a year ago and my dots were a lot smaller than yours...the paint dots that came on my dot cards were so small i barely i enough to even swatch- they were all smaller then the Rose Dore dot on your card...I thought that was just how Winsor and Newton made their dot cards, Im super surprised to see such large dots on your card and now Im annoyed bc I got screwed...lol. Anyway great video, thanks for sharing💓
Oh wow that is so annoying!!! 😭😭 I get mad when one or two dots are tiny or have fallen off, let alone a whole card. And they charge heaps for them too. 😵
Just like perylene and terre verte, they made the same mistake with Prussian blue and Antwerp blue. The Prussian is the one that is deep and intense whereas Antwerp is greyish and muted.
Thanks for letting me know, I was wondering about that because all other Prussian Blues I've encountered have been as you describe. So annoying that there are mistakes on the card!
Even more worse i buyed years ago their prussian blue full pan. and based this chart they indeed put antwerp blue in prussian blue case. same pigment but something different what i dont know.
and luckily they send new pan to me. even i buyed them many years ago but forgotted contact factory. but still my viridian is very weak even other brand. very likely i dont try it anymore even its granulating pigment.
Winsor's weakest colors: Viridian, Both terre verte, Prussian blue that quickly turns into an incomprehensible jelly
Agreed with the two greens....they're so difficult to work with! I guess I will be steering clear of their Prussian Blue too, lol.
Viridian, made properly, isn't going to compete with phthalo for intensity. However, it doesn't fade in tints as quickly as phthalo and doesn't stain like phthalo, unless it is goosed with phthalo surreptitiously.
Прусский синий во многих красках со временем желируется и начинает разваливаться на куски, переставая отдавать пигмент(
Yes, Prussian Blue can be a very strange and unpredictable pigment! Thank you for watching :-)
Yes, I had a quarter pan in a tiny bijou box, very old. I couldn't get any colour out of it. And as W&N had problems with their prussian blue for some time I replaced it with phthalo blue, more versatile anyway. Got to use solid pans in those old tins or they will rust, as the paint has no casing, so I needed a brand with extruded half pans. Pleased to say they've sorted put their prussian blue for now and I got a fantastic half pan just tried last night.
"Opera" paints should never be part of an artists' professional lineup. I think Holbein started that awfulness.
I guess it's one of those bright pinks which a lot of botanical artists love. Paul Rubens included one in their floral set, but interestingly it has no fluorescent dye labelled, and is shown as a single pigment - I'm so curious to know if it is more lightfast or will also fade with time.