I add my tips. 1. Leather seat is much more comfortable after it breaks into your butt shape. 2. Front small pannier for important things like phone, wallet & keys. Rear panniers are for the rest. 3. I carry a small USB battery pack will all cables to charge lights daily and charge USB battery weekly. 4. I check and pump air before every ride. It makes a lot of difference. 5. I add those anti puncture latex belt in between inner tyre and external tyre. I have zero puncture. Even with puncture resistance tyres I also add it. 6. Gloves. It help with palm numb. 7. Prefer cadence over speed, make good use of gears. 8. At start of bicycle commuting, minimum commitment is 2 weeks for body to build up. Take a day rest between two cycling until body used to it. 9. Go slow enjoy the breeze. Enjoy the way, don't rush.
Great tips! I have a few comments: - In the U.S., some stoplights (especially older ones) don't sense bikes and may never change. In this case, I think it's okay to run a red light when it is safe to do so. - For numb hands, one can also move the seat back. While this seems counterintuitive, it shifts your whole weight back so less weight is on your hands. - Shower before your ride to work. Sweat by itself usually does not stink. It's the bacteria on your skin that creates the smell. Baby wipes are a great backup though. - Cycling is as hard as you make it (especially if you have gears). The difference between pushing yourself and relaxing and enjoying your ride is usually only a few minutes. There is a misconception that biking to work XX miles (11.5 miles in my case) is hard, when really it all depends on how you ride. - I check my tire pressure every morning I commute. It kinda sucks when I'm two miles into my commute and realize I'm working way too hard because my tire is half-flat. Mini-pumps are great for emergencies, but they still kinda suck. This is a very good comprehensive guide.
I’m not sure I fully comprehend why it is either. I believe it has to do with how your weight is centered compared to the bottom bracket (or where your feet are pedaling). If your seat is forward, then your feet are more underneath you and your upper body weight falls more foreword and into your hands- creating a lot of pressure on your hands. If your seat is back, then your weight falls more into the seat and your upper body weight is more centered over the bottom bracket and the weight on your hands is lighter. So you may have the sensation of leaning a bit more foreword and being more stretched out, but your weight is centered further back so the weight on your hands is lighter. I’m not a bike fitter, but this is my understanding of how the seat fore and aft works.
@L. D. Barnes KE8QBI hmm I see what you guys mean. having the handles bar further back puts more weight onto your legs, given that your seat is the right height. also, i have my seated positioned super forward in it's rail, at safe maximum, and I can ride with no hands, but I have to lean backwards, not forwards
Comment 1: Great tips, thanks for sharing! I completely agree that in certain cases, like with some older stoplights in the U.S., it can be necessary for cyclists to run a red light if it's safe to do so. Safety should always be the top priority. Moving the seat back to alleviate numb hands is a clever suggestion too! And showering before a ride is definitely a great way to minimize odors. Keep up the great work with your comprehensive guide!Comment 2: Thank you for these helpful tips! I totally agree that cycling can be as hard as you make it, especially with gears. Taking it easy and enjoying the ride can make a huge difference in your overall experience. And checking tire pressure regularly is so important to avoid unnecessary difficulties during your commute. I appreciate the thoroughness of your guide, it's been a great resource. Keep up the fantastic work!Comment 3: Excellent suggestions! I really appreciate your insight on running red lights when it's safe, especially with older stoplights that may not sense bicycles. It's crucial to prioritize safety while cycling. Moving the seat back to relieve numb hands is a clever workaround. And showering before a ride is a great way to combat odor-causing bacteria. Your comprehensive guide has been incredibly valuable. Thank you for sharing these tips!Comment 4: Thank you for these wonderful tips! I completely agree that cycling doesn't have to be hard, especially when you embrace a relaxed and enjoyable riding style. It's all about finding the right balance and adjusting to your personal preferences. Regularly checking tire pressure is definitely a must, as it can make a significant difference in your effort and overall experience. Your comprehensive guide has been incredibly informative. Keep up the great work!
Köszönöm - thanks, I use a mirror and a bell. When I see a person with a dog, I ring the bell from a distance not to frighten them. I bike since some 70 years, now I use an e-bike.
1. Buy a bike mirror 2. Get decent clothing, waterproofs are key. 3. Get a windproof, even in summer wind-chill makes a difference. 4. Learn maintenance 5. Learn how to track stand 6. Dogs don't listen to anybody, be extra vigilant
Excellent video with some really good tips. A few from me as a regular bike commuter: 1. Dual-sided pedals (clipless on one side and flat on the other) can give you more flexibility - you can use clip-in shoes for longer recreational rides and then trainers/shoes when commuting. 2. Invest in good waterproofs - I use over-trousers that can be pulled over my regular office trousers when it's raining. 3. Recording your rides (e.g. using Strava) can be motivational - it's amazing how the commuter miles add up! 4. Many companies in the UK will pay staff for 'business travel' by bike - check your company policy on this. Keep up the good work - great videos!
I'd argue with the advice to make eye contact with drivers. It's easy to think you're making eye contact when they're just looking in your direction; and it's easy for a driver to look right at you and not see you. So, instead of trying to make eye contact, watch the cars tires. Look for them to be completely stopped, and you'll easily notice any movement, at all.
You have a valid point and as a delivery driver who cycles on our TFL vulnerable road users courses we told as drivers to make eye contact with cyclists and motor bikes - ultimately it depends on the competence of the driver
Making eye contact is very important, not only to understand of the driver sees you, but you can also stimulate a lazy driver to pay attention to you. There are as you say of course many other things that should be done, eg look inside parked cars to see if there is a driver behind the wheel, are the rear lights illuminated, are the front wheels angled to pull out, etc... never ride closer than 1 meter to parked cars....
I agree with you. Making eye contact to car drivers may set you in false safety. Often the car drivers think "hey, this cyclist guy has recognized me, so I can drive..."
As someone with poor vision I really hope no one takes my "eye contact" as a meaning for anything.. just cause I'm looking at someone general dir action doesn't mean I can see their eyes
I got a pretty cheap motion-sensor alarm for my bike (~$25). It comes with a little electronic fob with buttons to arm the alarm, and it runs on AA batteries. It really helped me to feel like my bike was more secured and protected from theft (obviously some thieves will always find a way, but the alarm helps).
Get a camera! I use Cycliq because of the long run time, approximately 7 hours. Also, there are a few companies that offer bicycle insurance. Very handy if you're in a no-fault accident. I have my Trek insured through Velosurance, and I've been really happy with them. Another tip is to get a GPS tracker in case of theft.
Overall these are great tips and watching this video will save the new commuter a lot of trial and error. "Don't yell at pedestrians" ... great in theory. In practice the bell is very useful certain circumstances with relatively quiet environments and alert/aware pedestrians who are used to encountering bicycle traffic and know what to do. Where I live, my bell is next to useless as those circumstances are rarely present and the most common scenario is I ring the bell at long distance; ring again at medium distance; ring again at shorter distance; YELL as a last resort to avoid an unsafe situation.
@@temp1temp218 Moving at a safe speed for the circumstances is a given. Things like startled pedestrians jumping directly into your path causing a collision or bike paths completely obstructed by pedestrians loitering or walking several abreast aren't covered by "just slow down".
I just found this channel after getting back into biking as an adult. I love these informative videos. I live in the Midwest of the U.S.A. and the temperatures are not ideal to ride now but I do enjoy learning more and more everyday. Cheers 🍻!!
I use clear shooting glasses for protection so drivers can see my eyes. I’m convinced that helps. If safe to do so, I acknowledge courteous drivers every chance I get.
The most important thing is to take more time to commute than you think yuo need it. At least 20min more. It gets you safer because you are not rushing and you can ride comfortably and reasonably dangerous. If you are to have a puncture, you would still get there on time.
AirPods Pro with ambient sound is really the ideal earbuds for cycling, and I heard the 2nd generation is even better, so check them out if bone conduct type is not for you.
A great video and very concise and comprehensive. You are among the very best (if not THE best) at what you are doing! Your channel should be much bigger. I may not agree totally with everything but nobody would go seriously wrong following any of this advice. Did you teach at the Dublin Oak Academy? Just wondering. You have a couple of clothing items. And..... Did I see you riding a bike with a Switch conversion kit?!?!??? Is it any good? Is it durable? Is it reliable? Can you get replacement parts if something stops working or gets broken or stolen? Do they have any customer service and backup if things go wrong out of warranty? I've been thinking about getting one for that extra boost on the hills.
For safety you should also fairly regularly go over your bike to make sure nothing is loose and your drive train is running and shifting well. Something as minor as your chain slipping can have serious consequences. I know this is a touchy topic but I think a helmet should be a basic part of your bike safety kit no matter how good your communities bike infrastructure is.
No.4 i did the same ..yes youre right No.5 do we still need it if we had Marathon Plus already No.7 why ? No.8 i instinctively did that too.. My body seems happy with this method
Okay can you do a video about the best commuter bike for year-round all weather commuting at Walmart or another big box store? Because that is pretty much the only place in the area I live where I can even buy a bike other than Amazon but with Amazon I can't see it
Check out Canadian channel's they have some good tips on winter biking tips Any bike will work. I'm currently using the Kent roadtech road bike. $180.00 shipped to me. I'm currently saving up to get the mongoose grit. It's a adventure gravel bike and I like the symatry of it. It's $400 + tax. Both bike's can be purchased at Walmart. Decathalon brands are also sold and shipped by Walmart. Just do your research ad don't get the cheapest bike they have at decathalon.
@@MarkSmith-js2pu Not my bike lights, for some reason.. They're Blackburn brand, carried by Walmart. USB rechargeable, and I live six-ish miles out of town, I gotta start crazy early in the morning, still dark outside. On steady mode, they get me all the way into town, but on strobe, they're dead by the time I reach the outskirts of town, take nearly forever to recharge, in town.
I can't think of anything to add . I am addicted to bicyclng. I think and dream about cycling almost every day even at night and in winter. All you vacations are bicyclng vacations and I spend the whole weekend cycling and every holiday except Christmas day And during blizzards.
Buy a bike that you can upgrade in the future, and that suits your needs. don't buy a cheap a MTB if you're gonna commute on road only. It's important to have a bike with attachment points for a rear rack and fenders if you're serious about commuting.
Interesting tip about no flashing lights. I know as a driver and just personally I tend to fixate on flashing lights which… not good because now I’m not seeing everything else. Also it makes me think of skiing advice which is always to watch _between_ the trees rather than the trees themselves because otherwise if you hyperfocus on avoiding the tree itself you may find yourself drifting and doing just that because of weight shifting etc. I think it was anyway, hopefully different for vehicles because turning your head isn’t turning the car unlike your body but I do sometimes apply that thinking to driving to focus on the middle of two objects rather than the object or person itself.
Savery, so you were a helmet. 😂😂😂😂. Pulsing or flashing lights ad night are a big no. By day yes, but ad night it is dangerous as you don't use a solid light. Don't were a helmet. Cars keep less distance and people take way more risks, what makes that from all accidents, moost are people with helmets. You have over 60% more risk to get in an accident than people without a helmet! Head injuries make less than 1%. Of all accidents on bikes where it us about 70% in a car! So wear that helmet in a car!
I add my tips.
1. Leather seat is much more comfortable after it breaks into your butt shape.
2. Front small pannier for important things like phone, wallet & keys. Rear panniers are for the rest.
3. I carry a small USB battery pack will all cables to charge lights daily and charge USB battery weekly.
4. I check and pump air before every ride. It makes a lot of difference.
5. I add those anti puncture latex belt in between inner tyre and external tyre. I have zero puncture. Even with puncture resistance tyres I also add it.
6. Gloves. It help with palm numb.
7. Prefer cadence over speed, make good use of gears.
8. At start of bicycle commuting, minimum commitment is 2 weeks for body to build up. Take a day rest between two cycling until body used to it.
9. Go slow enjoy the breeze. Enjoy the way, don't rush.
Could you explain no 8, pls
Great tips! I have a few comments:
- In the U.S., some stoplights (especially older ones) don't sense bikes and may never change. In this case, I think it's okay to run a red light when it is safe to do so.
- For numb hands, one can also move the seat back. While this seems counterintuitive, it shifts your whole weight back so less weight is on your hands.
- Shower before your ride to work. Sweat by itself usually does not stink. It's the bacteria on your skin that creates the smell. Baby wipes are a great backup though.
- Cycling is as hard as you make it (especially if you have gears). The difference between pushing yourself and relaxing and enjoying your ride is usually only a few minutes. There is a misconception that biking to work XX miles (11.5 miles in my case) is hard, when really it all depends on how you ride.
- I check my tire pressure every morning I commute. It kinda sucks when I'm two miles into my commute and realize I'm working way too hard because my tire is half-flat. Mini-pumps are great for emergencies, but they still kinda suck.
This is a very good comprehensive guide.
can you tell me how moving the seat back helps with numb hands? i know u said it seems counter intuitive but my brain just doesn't accept it.
I’m not sure I fully comprehend why it is either. I believe it has to do with how your weight is centered compared to the bottom bracket (or where your feet are pedaling). If your seat is forward, then your feet are more underneath you and your upper body weight falls more foreword and into your hands- creating a lot of pressure on your hands. If your seat is back, then your weight falls more into the seat and your upper body weight is more centered over the bottom bracket and the weight on your hands is lighter. So you may have the sensation of leaning a bit more foreword and being more stretched out, but your weight is centered further back so the weight on your hands is lighter.
I’m not a bike fitter, but this is my understanding of how the seat fore and aft works.
@L. D. Barnes KE8QBI hmm I see what you guys mean. having the handles bar further back puts more weight onto your legs, given that your seat is the right height.
also, i have my seated positioned super forward in it's rail, at safe maximum, and I can ride with no hands, but I have to lean backwards, not forwards
Comment 1: Great tips, thanks for sharing! I completely agree that in certain cases, like with some older stoplights in the U.S., it can be necessary for cyclists to run a red light if it's safe to do so. Safety should always be the top priority. Moving the seat back to alleviate numb hands is a clever suggestion too! And showering before a ride is definitely a great way to minimize odors. Keep up the great work with your comprehensive guide!Comment 2: Thank you for these helpful tips! I totally agree that cycling can be as hard as you make it, especially with gears. Taking it easy and enjoying the ride can make a huge difference in your overall experience. And checking tire pressure regularly is so important to avoid unnecessary difficulties during your commute. I appreciate the thoroughness of your guide, it's been a great resource. Keep up the fantastic work!Comment 3: Excellent suggestions! I really appreciate your insight on running red lights when it's safe, especially with older stoplights that may not sense bicycles. It's crucial to prioritize safety while cycling. Moving the seat back to relieve numb hands is a clever workaround. And showering before a ride is a great way to combat odor-causing bacteria. Your comprehensive guide has been incredibly valuable. Thank you for sharing these tips!Comment 4: Thank you for these wonderful tips! I completely agree that cycling doesn't have to be hard, especially when you embrace a relaxed and enjoyable riding style. It's all about finding the right balance and adjusting to your personal preferences. Regularly checking tire pressure is definitely a must, as it can make a significant difference in your effort and overall experience. Your comprehensive guide has been incredibly informative. Keep up the great work!
a lil' bit of a tip: wear yellow goggles... specially at night, they protect your eyes from front lights...
A side/rear mirror added onto the left handlebar was a game-changer for me
Köszönöm - thanks, I use a mirror and a bell. When I see a person with a dog, I ring the bell from a distance not to frighten them.
I bike since some 70 years, now I use an e-bike.
1. Buy a bike mirror
2. Get decent clothing, waterproofs are key.
3. Get a windproof, even in summer wind-chill makes a difference.
4. Learn maintenance
5. Learn how to track stand
6. Dogs don't listen to anybody, be extra vigilant
Excellent video with some really good tips. A few from me as a regular bike commuter:
1. Dual-sided pedals (clipless on one side and flat on the other) can give you more flexibility - you can use clip-in shoes for longer recreational rides and then trainers/shoes when commuting.
2. Invest in good waterproofs - I use over-trousers that can be pulled over my regular office trousers when it's raining.
3. Recording your rides (e.g. using Strava) can be motivational - it's amazing how the commuter miles add up!
4. Many companies in the UK will pay staff for 'business travel' by bike - check your company policy on this.
Keep up the good work - great videos!
I'd argue with the advice to make eye contact with drivers. It's easy to think you're making eye contact when they're just looking in your direction; and it's easy for a driver to look right at you and not see you. So, instead of trying to make eye contact, watch the cars tires. Look for them to be completely stopped, and you'll easily notice any movement, at all.
You have a valid point and as a delivery driver who cycles on our TFL vulnerable road users courses we told as drivers to make eye contact with cyclists and motor bikes - ultimately it depends on the competence of the driver
Making eye contact is very important, not only to understand of the driver sees you, but you can also stimulate a lazy driver to pay attention to you.
There are as you say of course many other things that should be done, eg look inside parked cars to see if there is a driver behind the wheel, are the rear lights illuminated, are the front wheels angled to pull out, etc... never ride closer than 1 meter to parked cars....
I agree with you. Making eye contact to car drivers may set you in false safety. Often the car drivers think "hey, this cyclist guy has recognized me, so I can drive..."
Yes to watching the car wheel. If it's moving, even if the driver is looking straight at you, he's going to go.
As someone with poor vision I really hope no one takes my "eye contact" as a meaning for anything.. just cause I'm looking at someone general dir action doesn't mean I can see their eyes
Spot on.... it's not a race, find your cadence and speed.
I got a pretty cheap motion-sensor alarm for my bike (~$25). It comes with a little electronic fob with buttons to arm the alarm, and it runs on AA batteries. It really helped me to feel like my bike was more secured and protected from theft (obviously some thieves will always find a way, but the alarm helps).
Get a camera! I use Cycliq because of the long run time, approximately 7 hours. Also, there are a few companies that offer bicycle insurance. Very handy if you're in a no-fault accident. I have my Trek insured through Velosurance, and I've been really happy with them. Another tip is to get a GPS tracker in case of theft.
Overall these are great tips and watching this video will save the new commuter a lot of trial and error.
"Don't yell at pedestrians" ... great in theory. In practice the bell is very useful certain circumstances with relatively quiet environments and alert/aware pedestrians who are used to encountering bicycle traffic and know what to do. Where I live, my bell is next to useless as those circumstances are rarely present and the most common scenario is I ring the bell at long distance; ring again at medium distance; ring again at shorter distance; YELL as a last resort to avoid an unsafe situation.
What is an unsafe situation? Just slow down.
@@temp1temp218 Moving at a safe speed for the circumstances is a given. Things like startled pedestrians jumping directly into your path causing a collision or bike paths completely obstructed by pedestrians loitering or walking several abreast aren't covered by "just slow down".
Excellent, we ride to work. Enjoy everyday of it. Headwind everyday and take it as life lessons.
I just found this channel after getting back into biking as an adult. I love these informative videos. I live in the Midwest of the U.S.A. and the temperatures are not ideal to ride now but I do enjoy learning more and more everyday. Cheers 🍻!!
Good tips! Hope you're doing well and come back soon!
Love 2 you and your channel. Let's keep going, my brother and friend!
I use clear shooting glasses for protection so drivers can see my eyes. I’m convinced that helps. If safe to do so, I acknowledge courteous drivers every chance I get.
I use Muc Off innertube sealant and 0 flats since. It lasts the life of the inner tube.
Where did you get that sweater my friend!?
10:40 i would advise keeping your keys on your keyring, not your chainring. keeping them on your chainring will probably not be good for your bike :'D
Shame he seems to have stopped making videos, this channel is fantastic
He made enough adsense money to buy a car..
The most important thing is to take more time to commute than you think yuo need it. At least 20min more. It gets you safer because you are not rushing and you can ride comfortably and reasonably dangerous. If you are to have a puncture, you would still get there on time.
AirPods Pro with ambient sound is really the ideal earbuds for cycling, and I heard the 2nd generation is even better, so check them out if bone conduct type is not for you.
On the flashing lights, VERY dangerous, theres people with epilepsy that bike everywhere and believe it or not we're allowed to drive too.
A great video and very concise and comprehensive.
You are among the very best (if not THE best) at what you are doing! Your channel should be much bigger.
I may not agree totally with everything but nobody would go seriously wrong following any of this advice.
Did you teach at the Dublin Oak Academy? Just wondering. You have a couple of clothing items.
And.....
Did I see you riding a bike with a Switch conversion kit?!?!???
Is it any good?
Is it durable?
Is it reliable?
Can you get replacement parts if something stops working or gets broken or stolen?
Do they have any customer service and backup if things go wrong out of warranty?
I've been thinking about getting one for that extra boost on the hills.
For safety you should also fairly regularly go over your bike to make sure nothing is loose and your drive train is running and shifting well. Something as minor as your chain slipping can have serious consequences.
I know this is a touchy topic but I think a helmet should be a basic part of your bike safety kit no matter how good your communities bike infrastructure is.
When I read the first sentence I thought you were suggesting you go over the handlebars to toughen yourself up in case of a real crash lol
the end link video isn't there.
Thanks for the heads up! I inserted it now.
Thanks 😊
No.4 i did the same ..yes youre right
No.5 do we still need it if we had Marathon Plus already
No.7 why ?
No.8 i instinctively did that too.. My body seems happy with this method
What about earbuds with pass through/transparency?
Work fine for me. Just keep in mind where your focus is.
Okay can you do a video about the best commuter bike for year-round all weather commuting at Walmart or another big box store? Because that is pretty much the only place in the area I live where I can even buy a bike other than Amazon but with Amazon I can't see it
Check out Canadian channel's they have some good tips on winter biking tips Any bike will work. I'm currently using the Kent roadtech road bike. $180.00 shipped to me. I'm currently saving up to get the mongoose grit. It's a adventure gravel bike and I like the symatry of it. It's $400 + tax. Both bike's can be purchased at Walmart. Decathalon brands are also sold and shipped by Walmart. Just do your research ad don't get the cheapest bike they have at decathalon.
@@tabithaedwards745 thx I bought a bike but got the size wrong and it's just uncomfortable plus I don't like all the gears
If your bike lights run on batteries, I found that strobing the lights, eats up serious battery power.
Every one that I’ve ever owned saved power with the strobe function.
@@MarkSmith-js2pu Not my bike lights, for some reason.. They're Blackburn brand, carried by Walmart. USB rechargeable, and I live six-ish miles out of town, I gotta start crazy early in the morning, still dark outside. On steady mode, they get me all the way into town, but on strobe, they're dead by the time I reach the outskirts of town, take nearly forever to recharge, in town.
+1 Always count that your opponent will do a mistake. Be ready to his mistake.
I can't think of anything to add . I am addicted to bicyclng. I think and dream about cycling almost every day even at night and in winter. All you vacations are bicyclng vacations and I spend the whole weekend cycling and every holiday except Christmas day
And during blizzards.
Another one for mindset: When riding in he wind, convince yourself that you have a tailwind- it's just going the wrong direction.
Agree 100%
Buy a bike that you can upgrade in the future, and that suits your needs. don't buy a cheap a MTB if you're gonna commute on road only.
It's important to have a bike with attachment points for a rear rack and fenders if you're serious about commuting.
Agreed. Thanks for the comment John!
Interesting tip about no flashing lights. I know as a driver and just personally I tend to fixate on flashing lights which… not good because now I’m not seeing everything else. Also it makes me think of skiing advice which is always to watch _between_ the trees rather than the trees themselves because otherwise if you hyperfocus on avoiding the tree itself you may find yourself drifting and doing just that because of weight shifting etc. I think it was anyway, hopefully different for vehicles because turning your head isn’t turning the car unlike your body but I do sometimes apply that thinking to driving to focus on the middle of two objects rather than the object or person itself.
It's absolutely the same when driving a car. Fun to try out during a driver safety training...
I prefer for my bike to be cheap, simple, and practical. No flashy, or showy paint work. No techy gizmos.
1:33 Thank You. It is sad that needs to be said, it is so obvious.
Helmet?
There are lots fo 90s "mountain bikes" that are bomb-proof.
4:44 it's all a matter of time I guess. My thing is that I don't want to endure one more day. I'll put her on ice.
Haha. Just hang in there!
Use a bell… I have to say I shout loud enough a car can notice me. The bell has no effect
Don't scare the drivers with that roar :D!
Ebike commute !
Savery, so you were a helmet. 😂😂😂😂.
Pulsing or flashing lights ad night are a big no. By day yes, but ad night it is dangerous as you don't use a solid light.
Don't were a helmet. Cars keep less distance and people take way more risks, what makes that from all accidents, moost are people with helmets. You have over 60% more risk to get in an accident than people without a helmet! Head injuries make less than 1%. Of all accidents on bikes where it us about 70% in a car! So wear that helmet in a car!
I was a helmet :)?
You bring up some good points.
I used to wear a helmet, but I swear I’m safer and more alert without one.