i actually had quite a bit of crank pressure in stock LS's in the lifter valley, holley gave me a center cover with a oil fill cap in it for my twin intake car, and i used that as the vent and it would puke oil out of there something fierce, engine not blown up, crank pressure sensor showed nothing either. if you have issues, not saying you will, but if you do look at that first haha
@@JacobVillemainit almost seems like just oil violence there for some reason made a mess out of my dyno bay i thought it was blown up, just moved the hose and viola, im sure some sort of baffling would have fixed it
@@stevengrabowski667 No, you always want the best drainage you can on turbos especially when you get to larger frames, ball bearing center sections, etc. The more oil you can feed through the center sections help reduce heat buildup in the turbo which increases bearing and seal life, also eliminates oil pushing past the seals causing the turbo to consume oil and smoke, also oil leaking past the seals and burning in the turbine section causes build up, it leaking into the compressor side can damage the compressor wheel, and pushes oil into the engine. It also makes it so the very very hot oil coming out of the turbos isn’t just dumped on the internals of the engine. Having a scavenging section of the dry sump dedicated to the turbos is by far the best way to go.
Could by adding extra oil from the turbos into the engine valley, cause windage power loss and foaming issues, as this oil drains past the rotaing crank and rods ? J
Do you take any precaution with storage? I have an LS crate in my garage and I'm maybe over paranoid about rust on the cylinder walls from the humidity in the garage, but maybe I'm worried over nothing?
Should I set extra bearing clearance on 2 & 4 mains? Using LSX block, custom age studs, and billet 4330 Callies crank. Planned on running .0032 on all. A lot of people have told me to set extra clearance on 2 & 4, but not with the 4330 crankshaft. Trying to get your opinion. Thanks!
Hit the like on this one fast. I have been watching this and was wondering why I have not got a notification and saw that I was not subscribed. Called this phone a MFer and hit sub again. Only recommendation I will offer is to take those stainless bolts all out and put anti seas on them to combat galvanic corrosion. Or some other coating.
So all that degree/timing/measuring/dial indicatoring to say, "doesn't matter. We'll dial in what we need when its actually running". Which is what i thought to begin with and I'm no engine builder.lol.
![Engine Power GAINS With MORE Reliability? How! [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L84P5ChzRYY/mqdefault.jpg)
The best "Engine" channel on YT
Dude this engine build is going to bring so much attention to your channel. Love it so far! Been waiting on this video! Here since 32k lol
i actually had quite a bit of crank pressure in stock LS's in the lifter valley, holley gave me a center cover with a oil fill cap in it for my twin intake car, and i used that as the vent and it would puke oil out of there something fierce, engine not blown up, crank pressure sensor showed nothing either.
if you have issues, not saying you will, but if you do look at that first haha
Good to know! I’m hoping the dry sump pump will help alleviate crankcase pressure
i also really like that dry sump, scavenge channel, pump holder all in one unit
my genv LT1 has crank case pressure issues as well D:
Is the dailey unit the one with the air separator engineered in also? One things for sure, there's no sitting in on the floor 🤣 I'm major jealous
@@JacobVillemainit almost seems like just oil violence there for some reason
made a mess out of my dyno bay i thought it was blown up, just moved the hose and viola, im sure some sort of baffling would have fixed it
I do hope you go into detail on the heads, they look like they would make big power N.A. is the LSA 116 degrees.
I hope you used vinegar or brake kleen after those steel bolts were in. They will rust even changing them out
Always excited for a new video! Can't wait to watch it
Please add another stage to the pump for the turbo drains you’ll really appreciate it later
John
Would've that pull too much oil from the turbo
@@stevengrabowski667 No, you always want the best drainage you can on turbos especially when you get to larger frames, ball bearing center sections, etc. The more oil you can feed through the center sections help reduce heat buildup in the turbo which increases bearing and seal life, also eliminates oil pushing past the seals causing the turbo to consume oil and smoke, also oil leaking past the seals and burning in the turbine section causes build up, it leaking into the compressor side can damage the compressor wheel, and pushes oil into the engine. It also makes it so the very very hot oil coming out of the turbos isn’t just dumped on the internals of the engine. Having a scavenging section of the dry sump dedicated to the turbos is by far the best way to go.
Did I just see my light Ford blue 363 getting built in the background? Stoked to get it stabbed in my F-100!
Great build, cant wait to see this on the dyno, top stuff mate cheers Yogi 👍 new subscriber
Could by adding extra oil from the turbos into the engine valley, cause windage power loss and foaming issues, as this oil drains past the rotaing crank and rods ?
J
When you dyno this can you explain what advancing and retarding the cam does? how does changing the ICL change the torque and RPM abilities?
Do you take any precaution with storage? I have an LS crate in my garage and I'm maybe over paranoid about rust on the cylinder walls from the humidity in the garage, but maybe I'm worried over nothing?
Watching every video! Can't wait till first rip!
He meant “torque wrench” not “breaker bar” 4:56
Should I set extra bearing clearance on 2 & 4 mains? Using LSX block, custom age studs, and billet 4330 Callies crank. Planned on running .0032 on all. A lot of people have told me to set extra clearance on 2 & 4, but not with the 4330 crankshaft. Trying to get your opinion. Thanks!
Waiting and waiting for the Part 8. What happened? Have you just been too busy? Looking forward to more on this build.
where is part 8 ???
That's a beautiful oil pan hate to ssy it but if a rod break its coming straight thru
Aww man i didn't think about that, no matter where it exits its taking out some money.
Would you be concerned if the cam was off 1.25*? Thanks!
Doesn't stainless react with alloy? Would hate to see those bolts seize in that pan! Great video anyway keep the build content rolling
Hit the like on this one fast. I have been watching this and was wondering why I have not got a notification and saw that I was not subscribed. Called this phone a MFer and hit sub again. Only recommendation I will offer is to take those stainless bolts all out and put anti seas on them to combat galvanic corrosion. Or some other coating.
Do you have a 383 eliminator tune map available for the holley sniper as a baseline for break in so it doesnt glaze the cylinders?
Ok, did you get the shafts...or were you shafted?🤓 Can't wait for Part 8!!🇺🇸👍🇺🇸🤘🇺🇸
Lovely block 👌
16 👍's up EG thank you for sharing 😊
Whats your water pump clearance like with the belt drive?
What brand of dial indicators do you guys use?
Is that a grease or silicone that you used on the corners of the oil pan
silicone
Would your remember fuildamper or ati?
Can’t WD 40 damage O rings?
What’s the name of your shop??
I just seen a 4000 hp coyote Ford powered forever baby
So all that degree/timing/measuring/dial indicatoring to say, "doesn't matter. We'll dial in what we need when its actually running". Which is what i thought to begin with and I'm no engine builder.lol.
Can we just see it finished already and see if blows up man gess it's taking to long
Are you sure that's 3000 to 4000 horsepower👍
how much to build my engine 2010 Camaro ss automatic but converting to 6 speed,with a stroker kit to 416
3,000 hp…
Love the click bait lol. Going to be a nice piece when she’s done…
What’s your actual target for horsepower?