So you hold the up and down for 5 or 5 seconds. Then release and wait a few seconds and the screen appears? I keep holding the buttons and nothing happens. It just flashes and starts over.
Hi, yes. That’s how it works on my 2017 SDGT. First scroll to "settings" then try pressing the up + down button firmly for a bit longer. Ensure the bike is in neutral in case that makes a difference. Hope it works for you.
Pro tip: wrap your exhaust in aluminum foil to keep oil from going on it or having to clean up afterward just rip the foil off. You don't need to make a "funnel" - just wrap your pipe.
Top video there my friend. Due my 10k service and was going to pay to have done. After watching this I will service myself. Just had new break pads so all good 👍 Thanks again
Me too. I have been waiting for a month to get my GT in, and it does not look like it will get in any time soon. My oil changes have been $250+CDN with filters, oil and Labour. I have always done all my Japanese bikes but stopped when I got my RC8 and same with the GT. I guess, because the Japanese bikes did not have software updates too or require the KTM diagnostic tool.
Hi, for the original KTM one best to email a dealer as I could not find an OEM spoiler. best I could find are these... www.sw-motech-shop.co.uk/Front-spoiler-Orange-Black-KTM-1290-Super-Duke-R-GT
I have just changed the oil on my Superduke. I had trouble with the sump bolts as one of them had been rounded by the dealer (another story) when the bike was under warranty but I followed your vid and all good although. However, I didn't add thread lock as no mention in the maintenance manual to do so👍
@@KevKam Cheers mate! sorry to take your time from a ride to get a reply... i wish you as many kilometers as your body can take,without any mechanical or electrical gremlins!
@@Bill.Papadakis Soz, Bill, what I didn't explain was, and what I meant was " im so fkd off with being restricted in the UK re the rules and i'd rather be touring that having too much time on my hands. I hope I can always take time to reply to people, it's never a problem. This is often the problem with typing, I find I dont give enough detail in my replies, and often in the vids too. 😆.
@@KevKam i'm just teasing you,mate! the restrictions and the lockdowns have ruined many rides,sadly :/ i hope they end sooner than later and to get my GT before the end of the year xD
Thanks 👍🏽I'd replace O rings if they look damaged in any way, and i think many new oil filters come with new o-rings, so they're new each time. I think the bolts should be fine.
Another excellent video. So you use 10/40 oil was that right? Shell Advanced. Was that fully Synthetic? The problem I see with doing this yourself is what would you be missing compared to a KTM service? Plus you don’t get your service book stamped.
I’ve used the same 10/40 oil on most my big V Twins in hot and medium cold temperatures, never a problem. Yes, fully synthetic, I feel it gives better lasting protection. I only do my own oil/filter, brake pads etc after the warranty expires so to avoid any warranty issues if they arise. Other than that the only thing I feel missing from a KTM dealer service is the very expensive hourly rate. Often mechanics are under pressure to turn around work quickly, they don’t have much time and (in my option) don’t always get it right. I’ve had bikes returned from main dealers with loose nuts or incorrectly torqued bolts, even a front drive train sprocket that hadn’t been tightened, lucky the lock washer was on. Re the dealer stamp, after warranty has ended I just write the date, millage etc in my logbook. If I get any deep work done, beyond my meagre skills, I’ll go to an indépendant who will stamp the book. Recently had a valve check done by an independent, no adjustment needed, they stamped the book for me. I’ve no allégeance to overpriced, sales orientated main dealers.
@@KevKam Interesting. I've always taken my bikes to dealers or local garages depending on the bike. I've watched your videos and have already removed my rear pads to check and clean them. That squeak has yet to return but its early days yet. I added ceramic grease to the back of the pads - they were bone dry when checked. I reckon i can do the oil change myself. Front pads would be the next thing to change when due. What do you do about changing brake oil and bleeding them every 2 years? So you're saying beyond that there's nothing special about the KTM dealer doing the service? No other work they do that's needed? My bike will be due its yearly service in August and its done just over 9500 miles. Last years service was about 7000miles.
@@devonbiker Hi, I’m glad the vids have helped. I only do simple things that l feel confident with, any deeper work I’ll go to an indépendant i trust. I think you’ll find oil and filter changes are straight forward, front brake and pads are also easy to change and clean. If you’ve done the rear you’ll be fine with the front, Just take your time. Ive never used copper grease but I know many do. 👍🏻 There are plenty of reasons to go to a KTM dealer when the bikes in warranty and if you have the money, but for me, if I can’t do the work myself I’ll go to an indépendant I trust. I may be wrong but I can’t think of anything I’m missing from not using a KTM dealer service when doing the simple stuff myself, if anything when i do it i know it’s done, checked and double checked and I’ve saved money, which is also why i do the vids to try and save others cash. I’ve had poor experiences with several main dealers who suggest work that isn’t needed or have returned the bike with loose nuts/bolts. Re stamping the book - Its possibly a selling point when having all main dealer stamps, but can’t say I’ve ever had an issue selling or buying a bike with indépendant stamps yet. Thanks for the feedback, best wishes with your work. Having space, time correct tools and tea n biscuits helps smooth things along. 😎
I have a couple questions about toping off the oil do you stand the bike up as vertical as possible or check oil level on the kickstand on level surface it makes a difference in the sight glass for sure
Great video...just one thing; you held the liter bottle of oil in a way that promotes surging or splashing of the oil out of the bottle. If you hold the bottle flat in your palm, like a restaurant server holds a tray, you can prevent oil surging out of the bottle. Just wanted to leave this tip here. Well done on letting all possible oil drain out of the engine; when you refill your bike with the manufacturer's recommended quantity of oil, you won't overfill if you refill with the bike's spec'd oil capacity and if you drain all the dirty oil out.
Thanks. Good tip, never heard that before but I can see what you mean. I did struggle a bit re-filling, I found the hose and funnel was needed to save my patio from more oil spills😆. Cheers.
Not reading all the comments to see if it's been said or not mate, but next time just wrap that little bit of exhaust with foil, works a treat, fine it a few times now. No burning oil and no stains 😉👍
@@KevKam yeah haha, I've tried other things too... Blue workshop cloth, rags etc. But considering it's best to change/drain your oil when it's hot that means so are the pipes haha foil won't stick or melt to them and eliminates the risk of a fire etc hahaha depending how hard you've just been riding 🤣😉🍻
Hey man. I used your video as a guideline to do an oil change on my SDR. Thank you for that. One tip : Maybe cover up the exhaust headers before undoing the oil drain cover? Can't imagine oil remnants burning to a crisp on hot metal to be very good for it. I was thinking of using aluminum foil just to wrap it up. Also, some shops it might be cheaper to buy 4 bottles of 1 liter oil rather than a 4l jug. Makes it easier to pour one-handed too. Anyway, thanks for the vid and happy riding.
Thank BusaLuva. Glad it was useful. Yes, i agree random, burnt oil stains won't look good ha ha. i did think of covering the exhaust, it is a good idea but i knew i'd be cleaning the bike after i did the pads so didn't bother. In the UK 4 one litre bottles work out more expensive than one 4 litre, ( its a trick dealers use, they charge you for 4 single litres but buy oil in bulk, cheeky monkeys.) but its a good idea to de-cant it into smaller bottles for easy pouring,. It's all learning along the way. Thanks. :)
Hi - I have a ''Sw-Motech ALU-RACK'', on a givi universal mounting plate. Two Givi top boxes, one the Trekker Outback 58L (OBK58A) for long tours and a smaller Trekker 42L one for general use . Sorry i can't help re the standard rack, i bought the Motech because i thought it looked better in shape - smaller, angled,. Not that it can be seen with the givi universal mounting plate I've threadlocked in place and can't be arsed to remove, :)
@@KevKam cheers i have only just traded my multistrada in and have been looking to see if i can fit what i have onto the rack but that helps me. Alot thank you very much
I serviced my 1290 SAS for the first time myself yesterday thanks to your vid, it took 4 liters and level was on the top marker as per the service manual but just checked it today and it's a few notches down on the sight glass. It does go back up when hot though. Is this normal?
Hi, good man. It is an easy job once you know how and saves £€$. Yes, when mine looked low i ran the motor got it hot, turned, it off for a minute and the level was all good again.
Hi again. I’m watching your videos again because I’m going to attempt servicing my bike myself this time. Looking at your K&N oil filter aren’t you concerned about how you’ll remove it next time as there are no holes for your pliers to remove it.
Hi. No there are some ‘reverse’ pliers that expand outwards and can grip the indent/recess in the centre of the filter. Or I could just hammer a bent nail in it and yank it out like some luddite Bandit owner 😁
Good Question - The answer - I'm not sure :) - But i'm guessing they wont have made many changes to the basic stuff on the 2nd gen, you'l find out when you have a look. The new headlight on the GT is growing on me. I like them.
Why you don't use the recommend 10w 50 oil? The filter has not the bypass, which is really important in cause of a filterfail. You let the bike run only one minute?! That is to short. The oil need to have 80°C when you put it out. When the oil is to cold you can't get all out of them and it stays in the motor. That you can see, when you fill in the new oil and run it the first time, the color of the oil is changing a bit in to dark. An advise for the next time: let the engine run 15 minutes and let the oil bleed out for another 15 minutes. 😉
Hi - I like the Shell Fully Synthetic. It works very well from my experience and I have always used K&N filters - Never a problem on the 1290 GT or my Diavel in many years. The oil was hot, it does say so in the video at 0:57 Unless you use a flushing liquid before filling with new oil it will always go a little darker you won't get it all out. It's not a problem. 👍🏼
Hi - I change mine around 8,000 miles (12874km) both oil & filter. GT manual says every 9,300 miles (15,000km). I'm up to 19,000 miles in total so far, no issues 😇. Many change oil well before this but i feel the fully synthetic oil protects well enough, i'd certainly say I ride on the harder side, often fully loaded in Europe as well as removing the weighty luggage and then opening it up on mountain roads.
totally agree about the K&N. i use HiFlo oil and air filters, which are identical to the OEM (maybe HiFlo makes the OEM filters for KTM), and it has the bypass. i wouldnt risk it with this K&N my manual (2016 1290) asks for either 10W50 or 5W40. did they change the spec for newer models?
@@anaudiophile We seldom get that hot here in the UK but I hit that heat in southern Europe for months at a time. Don't get sub zero here often. The 10W 40 seems to be good for my usage. I dont know anyone who uses 10w60. Not sure what the application would be.
Great video but you do NOT and should not use threadlocker on any of those bolts. It is not required in the procedures in the owners manual. Just use a torque wrench and you are off to the races.
Thanks 👍 i often like to use use medium thread lock regardless of the manual, as I find bolt threads do wear over time and it’s added security and peace of mind. I guess new bolts would also be an option as the thread wears over time, but then again it’s the aluminium thread in the casing that wears most I think?
Thanks. I did have a quick look. Only found a K&N650 for the Super Adventure for £31 Cant find a 650 for the 1290 GT or R. I'm happy to pay £9 for a K&N 158 while i can :) . www.ebay.co.uk/i/292925656340?chn=ps
A good Q and I cant quite remember the answer😁 Looking at my 1290 GT workshop manual oil specs again, I see 10W/50 'fully synthetic" and 5W/40 "synthetic"is recommended, what the difference is between synthetic and fully synthetic as the manual states, I have no clue. (Geography can make a difference to what is recommended, if you live in hot or cold climate). I think I chose 10/40 as I like Shell Advance Fully Synthetic and it was only available in that viscosity. Been using it for the last 6 years on different V twins, never an issue and I hardly need to top up. What do you use?
I just found a description online which summarises what I think my needs are, oil wise, I'm in the UK which isn't extreme cold or hot (at the moment) but I like to tour in Hot countries, so the 10/W40 gives me the temperature range: ""The designation "10W-40" indicates a multigrade oil that is toward the low end of the SAE scale in cold weather, but at the upper end in hot conditions. 10W-40 oil is therefore good for a wide range of weather conditions"". But also the Shell Advance has a nice pic of a motorcycle on the container 😁
@@KevKam I use the recommended Motorex 10w-50. I notice the timing chain is a little noisy on cold starts, without it even being that cold out…..around 50F for an example. I live in Midwest of US, but only ride in the warmer months. So the coldest my bike will see is the 35F in the fall mornings if it sits out wherever I am but temps usually will approach mid 60s as the day warms up.
So you hold the up and down for 5 or 5 seconds. Then release and wait a few seconds and the screen appears? I keep holding the buttons and nothing happens. It just flashes and starts over.
Hi, yes. That’s how it works on my 2017 SDGT.
First scroll to "settings" then try pressing the up + down button firmly for a bit longer. Ensure the bike is in neutral in case that makes a difference. Hope it works for you.
Pro tip: wrap your exhaust in aluminum foil to keep oil from going on it or having to clean up afterward just rip the foil off. You don't need to make a "funnel" - just wrap your pipe.
Thanks, i always wash and clean after, so not problem, but yes, an old rag or tin foil can help keep the zorst clean. 👍
This is a wonderful video. I screenshot the important parts as I went. Perfect. Thanks for being so well thought out!
Thank You for the feedback. Very happy to be helpful. 👍🏼
Good stuff, just bought a 2019 GT and these tips are great… thanks!
😊Thanks
Great vid. You've convinced me to do my own. Thank you man. New 2020 1290SDR
Thank You and Conrats on the new SDR. Great bike..
It's a good job to do on a warm day, and saves $$$£££££ 👍🏼
Top video there my friend. Due my 10k service and was going to pay to have done. After watching this I will service myself. Just had new break pads so all good 👍
Thanks again
Thanks. Very happy to help people save some cash.
Me too. I have been waiting for a month to get my GT in, and it does not look like it will get in any time soon. My oil changes have been $250+CDN with filters, oil and Labour. I have always done all my Japanese bikes but stopped when I got my RC8 and same with the GT. I guess, because the Japanese bikes did not have software updates too or require the KTM diagnostic tool.
Thanks for the vid. Feel happier having a go at my own now.
Thank you.
Great, its easy when youve done it a couple of times. 👍
Hello excelent video, I like to ask u where do you buy the protector for the motor the first thing you get off the bike at the star of the video
Hi, for the original KTM one best to email a dealer as I could not find an OEM spoiler. best I could find are these... www.sw-motech-shop.co.uk/Front-spoiler-Orange-Black-KTM-1290-Super-Duke-R-GT
Or these... expensive though 😑
www.ebay.co.uk/i/392239024430?chn=ps
Many thanks - service reset very helpful 👌
Thanks. Happy to help.
Hi silly question but do check oil level on the side stand or up right?
Cheers
Dave
Hi - Not silly at all. I check it standing upright.
Service reset was cool!
Thanks. Very happy to help people with that one as the KTM shop refused to do it for me as they said didn't do the service. Thjank's P&H in Crawley.
You can cover exhaust pipe with aluminum foil to protect from the oil.
Yes, its true. I usually always wash the bike after so no need for me to, but its a good tip anyway, thanks 👍
I have just changed the oil on my Superduke. I had trouble with the sump bolts as one of them had been rounded by the dealer (another story) when the bike was under warranty but I followed your vid and all good although. However, I didn't add thread lock as no mention in the maintenance manual to do so👍
The more you do it, it gets really easy and familiar. Cant say i akways use a medium thredlock either.
How did you get the plug off. Mine is stuck , even a impact gun 600nm cant get it loose
legends say that sporty has replied to all the comments in this video!
It's a labour of love,,, but i'd rather be traveling somewhere hot on the mighty Superduke. 👍🏼
@@KevKam Cheers mate! sorry to take your time from a ride to get a reply...
i wish you as many kilometers as your body can take,without any mechanical or electrical gremlins!
@@Bill.Papadakis Soz, Bill, what I didn't explain was, and what I meant was " im so fkd off with being restricted in the UK re the rules and i'd rather be touring that having too much time on my hands. I hope I can always take time to reply to people, it's never a problem.
This is often the problem with typing, I find I dont give enough detail in my replies, and often in the vids too. 😆.
@@KevKam i'm just teasing you,mate! the restrictions and the lockdowns have ruined many rides,sadly :/
i hope they end sooner than later and to get my GT before the end of the year xD
I will give you good advice. Every year, I advise you to replace the oil filter cap bolts (M5) and O-rings
Thanks 👍🏽I'd replace O rings if they look damaged in any way, and i think many new oil filters come with new o-rings, so they're new each time. I think the bolts should be fine.
merci pour cette vidéo, je vais pouvoir faire mon entretien moi-même !
Merci. De Rien. Profites. 😎
I put aluminum foil over the exhaust pipe on the rear oil drain plug.
It’s a god tip 👍others do that too. I’ll always give my bike a good clean after oil change so not too fussed about oil on the pipe.
Another excellent video. So you use 10/40 oil was that right? Shell Advanced. Was that fully Synthetic? The problem I see with doing this yourself is what would you be missing compared to a KTM service? Plus you don’t get your service book stamped.
I’ve used the same 10/40 oil on most my big V Twins in hot and medium cold temperatures, never a problem. Yes, fully synthetic, I feel it gives better lasting protection. I only do my own oil/filter, brake pads etc after the warranty expires so to avoid any warranty issues if they arise. Other than that the only thing I feel missing from a KTM dealer service is the very expensive hourly rate. Often mechanics are under pressure to turn around work quickly, they don’t have much time and (in my option) don’t always get it right. I’ve had bikes returned from main dealers with loose nuts or incorrectly torqued bolts, even a front drive train sprocket that hadn’t been tightened, lucky the lock washer was on. Re the dealer stamp, after warranty has ended I just write the date, millage etc in my logbook. If I get any deep work done, beyond my meagre skills, I’ll go to an indépendant who will stamp the book. Recently had a valve check done by an independent, no adjustment needed, they stamped the book for me. I’ve no allégeance to overpriced, sales orientated main dealers.
@@KevKam Interesting. I've always taken my bikes to dealers or local garages depending on the bike. I've watched your videos and have already removed my rear pads to check and clean them. That squeak has yet to return but its early days yet. I added ceramic grease to the back of the pads - they were bone dry when checked. I reckon i can do the oil change myself. Front pads would be the next thing to change when due. What do you do about changing brake oil and bleeding them every 2 years? So you're saying beyond that there's nothing special about the KTM dealer doing the service? No other work they do that's needed? My bike will be due its yearly service in August and its done just over 9500 miles. Last years service was about 7000miles.
@@devonbiker Hi, I’m glad the vids have helped. I only do simple things that l feel confident with, any deeper work I’ll go to an indépendant i trust. I think you’ll find oil and filter changes are straight forward, front brake and pads are also easy to change and clean. If you’ve done the rear you’ll be fine with the front, Just take your time. Ive never used copper grease but I know many do. 👍🏻
There are plenty of reasons to go to a KTM dealer when the bikes in warranty and if you have the money, but for me, if I can’t do the work myself I’ll go to an indépendant I trust. I may be wrong but I can’t think of anything I’m missing from not using a KTM dealer service when doing the simple stuff myself, if anything when i do it i know it’s done, checked and double checked and I’ve saved money, which is also why i do the vids to try and save others cash. I’ve had poor experiences with several main dealers who suggest work that isn’t needed or have returned the bike with loose nuts/bolts.
Re stamping the book - Its possibly a selling point when having all main dealer stamps, but can’t say I’ve ever had an issue selling or buying a bike with indépendant stamps yet.
Thanks for the feedback, best wishes with your work. Having space, time correct tools and tea n biscuits helps smooth things along. 😎
I have a couple questions about toping off the oil do you stand the bike up as vertical as possible or check oil level on the kickstand on level surface it makes a difference in the sight glass for sure
Good Q. I always stand the bike upright on level ground to check it, I'm pretty sure thats what the manual says too.
Great video...just one thing; you held the liter bottle of oil in a way that promotes surging or splashing of the oil out of the bottle. If you hold the bottle flat in your palm, like a restaurant server holds a tray, you can prevent oil surging out of the bottle. Just wanted to leave this tip here. Well done on letting all possible oil drain out of the engine; when you refill your bike with the manufacturer's recommended quantity of oil, you won't overfill if you refill with the bike's spec'd oil capacity and if you drain all the dirty oil out.
Thanks. Good tip, never heard that before but I can see what you mean. I did struggle a bit re-filling, I found the hose and funnel was needed to save my patio from more oil spills😆. Cheers.
Not reading all the comments to see if it's been said or not mate, but next time just wrap that little bit of exhaust with foil, works a treat, fine it a few times now. No burning oil and no stains 😉👍
It's a good tip, especially if the bikes nice and clean. I think mine needed a clean anyway and I was probably being lazy too. 😆
@@KevKam yeah haha, I've tried other things too... Blue workshop cloth, rags etc. But considering it's best to change/drain your oil when it's hot that means so are the pipes haha foil won't stick or melt to them and eliminates the risk of a fire etc hahaha depending how hard you've just been riding 🤣😉🍻
Hey man. I used your video as a guideline to do an oil change on my SDR. Thank you for that. One tip : Maybe cover up the exhaust headers before undoing the oil drain cover? Can't imagine oil remnants burning to a crisp on hot metal to be very good for it. I was thinking of using aluminum foil just to wrap it up. Also, some shops it might be cheaper to buy 4 bottles of 1 liter oil rather than a 4l jug. Makes it easier to pour one-handed too. Anyway, thanks for the vid and happy riding.
Thank BusaLuva. Glad it was useful.
Yes, i agree random, burnt oil stains won't look good ha ha. i did think of covering the exhaust, it is a good idea but i knew i'd be cleaning the bike after i did the pads so didn't bother. In the UK 4 one litre bottles work out more expensive than one 4 litre, ( its a trick dealers use, they charge you for 4 single litres but buy oil in bulk, cheeky monkeys.) but its a good idea to de-cant it into smaller bottles for easy pouring,. It's all learning along the way. Thanks. :)
Hi
The SDR can as well use 10w-40 oil？
Same engine (mapping aside) so yes. :)
@@KevKam thanks
It's fine for colder climates. Below 0°C. For the rest of the world, stay with the 10w50. And for the hottest, KTM recommends 10w60
When you start the bike before topping off how long do you let it run for?
Only a minute, i then let it stand a minute, then check. I always check a few times after the first few rides too. 👍🏼
Hi i was. Wondering what sort of rack and top box you use. I have a givi 47l top box and was wondering if that would fit the standard ktm rack
Hi - I have a ''Sw-Motech ALU-RACK'', on a givi universal mounting plate. Two Givi top boxes, one the Trekker Outback 58L (OBK58A) for long tours and a smaller Trekker 42L one for general use . Sorry i can't help re the standard rack, i bought the Motech because i thought it looked better in shape - smaller, angled,. Not that it can be seen with the givi universal mounting plate I've threadlocked in place and can't be arsed to remove, :)
@@KevKam cheers i have only just traded my multistrada in and have been looking to see if i can fit what i have onto the rack but that helps me. Alot thank you very much
I serviced my 1290 SAS for the first time myself yesterday thanks to your vid, it took 4 liters and level was on the top marker as per the service manual but just checked it today and it's a few notches down on the sight glass. It does go back up when hot though. Is this normal?
Hi, good man. It is an easy job once you know how and saves £€$.
Yes, when mine looked low i ran the motor got it hot, turned, it off for a minute and the level was all good again.
@@KevKam saves money and you ensure it's done properly and carefully so it's the way to go.
That's good to hear, cheers mate
I found it funny, we have the same exact bike and both use our old oil in our chain saws......to lube the chain of course
I'd always put some fresh oil into the New filter before putting it in.
Cool. I usually would do that too on other filters. Means less topping up after 👍🏼
Hi again. I’m watching your videos again because I’m going to attempt servicing my bike myself this time. Looking at your K&N oil filter aren’t you concerned about how you’ll remove it next time as there are no holes for your pliers to remove it.
Hi. No there are some ‘reverse’ pliers that expand outwards and can grip the indent/recess in the centre of the filter. Or I could just hammer a bent nail in it and yank it out like some luddite Bandit owner 😁
Magnet .
Should be the same on second Gen sdr?
Good Question - The answer - I'm not sure :) - But i'm guessing they wont have made many changes to the basic stuff on the 2nd gen, you'l find out when you have a look. The new headlight on the GT is growing on me. I like them.
looks to be. anyway thanks for the video, nice job. happy riding.
Why you don't use the recommend 10w 50 oil? The filter has not the bypass, which is really important in cause of a filterfail.
You let the bike run only one minute?! That is to short.
The oil need to have 80°C when you put it out. When the oil is to cold you can't get all out of them and it stays in the motor.
That you can see, when you fill in the new oil and run it the first time, the color of the oil is changing a bit in to dark. An advise for the next time: let the engine run 15 minutes and let the oil bleed out for another 15 minutes. 😉
Hi - I like the Shell Fully Synthetic. It works very well from my experience and I have always used K&N filters - Never a problem on the 1290 GT or my Diavel in many years.
The oil was hot, it does say so in the video at 0:57 Unless you use a flushing liquid before filling with new oil it will always go a little darker you won't get it all out. It's not a problem. 👍🏼
@@KevKam ok, than all it is fine. Wish you a nice season 2021.
🙂👌
At what mileage are you changing the oil?
Hi - I change mine around 8,000 miles (12874km) both oil & filter. GT manual says every 9,300 miles (15,000km). I'm up to 19,000 miles in total so far, no issues 😇. Many change oil well before this but i feel the fully synthetic oil protects well enough, i'd certainly say I ride on the harder side, often fully loaded in Europe as well as removing the weighty luggage and then opening it up on mountain roads.
Thank you
Hey,good video,one thing I did notice is that you had abit too much oil in,but maybe it went down after the footage
Thanks 👍🏼 . Yes, once the new oil filter fills up it does go down. But I have had to drain some out on other changes. 😂
Yeah me too,I put my too much in,so to get it out I put a spray bottle nozzle down where you fill it up and sprayed some out,easy peasy 🙂
@@84jrk Cool. Great tip.. Nice one.
@@84jrk I've added that tip in the video description info. Thanks. 👍🏼
Awesome dude..😎😎
Cheers man 😎
Merci 👍
De Rien.
Sporty to the rescue ... thanx. Spartacus
Aw shucks..... Thanks OneStop CheckShop and Mr Spartacus. :D
Those drain plug were really overtorqued when you removed them 😕
No thread lock on these fasteners
Yes, rarely do I find bolts at the correct torque.
Can’t go wrong with a dab of medium thread lock on worn bolts😁
My KTM 1090 heat's up really quick, have you ever had this issue
Hi, I’ve never had an issue with mine that i have noticed. When hot the fan will come on.
Your k&N filter does not have the bypass diaphram in it like the original. KTM also recommends 15w-50 oil
totally agree about the K&N. i use HiFlo oil and air filters, which are identical to the OEM (maybe HiFlo makes the OEM filters for KTM), and it has the bypass. i wouldnt risk it with this K&N
my manual (2016 1290) asks for either 10W50 or 5W40.
did they change the spec for newer models?
I am curious if any SDGT owners have used 10w60 in their bikes?
A few people have mentioned this. I wonder if the viscosity spec for the SDGT may vary in different territories to accommodate differing climates?
@@KevKam My canadian manual lists 5w40 for sub zero riding and 10w50. Our summers can reach 35+ celcius.
@@anaudiophile We seldom get that hot here in the UK but I hit that heat in southern Europe for months at a time. Don't get sub zero here often. The 10W 40 seems to be good for my usage. I dont know anyone who uses 10w60. Not sure what the application would be.
Great video but you do NOT and should not use threadlocker on any of those bolts. It is not required in the procedures in the owners manual. Just use a torque wrench and you are off to the races.
Thanks 👍 i often like to use use medium thread lock regardless of the manual, as I find bolt threads do wear over time and it’s added security and peace of mind. I guess new bolts would also be an option as the thread wears over time, but then again it’s the aluminium thread in the casing that wears most I think?
K&N-158 has been superseded by K&N-650.
Thanks. I did have a quick look. Only found a K&N650 for the Super Adventure for £31 Cant find a 650 for the 1290 GT or R. I'm happy to pay £9 for a K&N 158 while i can :) . www.ebay.co.uk/i/292925656340?chn=ps
10w-40 oil eh? What made you try that instead of the 10w-50
A good Q and I cant quite remember the answer😁 Looking at my 1290 GT workshop manual oil specs again, I see 10W/50 'fully synthetic" and 5W/40 "synthetic"is recommended, what the difference is between synthetic and fully synthetic as the manual states, I have no clue. (Geography can make a difference to what is recommended, if you live in hot or cold climate). I think I chose 10/40 as I like Shell Advance Fully Synthetic and it was only available in that viscosity. Been using it for the last 6 years on different V twins, never an issue and I hardly need to top up. What do you use?
I just found a description online which summarises what I think my needs are, oil wise, I'm in the UK which isn't extreme cold or hot (at the moment) but I like to tour in Hot countries, so the 10/W40 gives me the temperature range: ""The designation "10W-40" indicates a multigrade oil that is toward the low end of the SAE scale in cold weather, but at the upper end in hot conditions. 10W-40 oil is therefore good for a wide range of weather conditions"". But also the Shell Advance has a nice pic of a motorcycle on the container 😁
@@KevKam I use the recommended Motorex 10w-50. I notice the timing chain is a little noisy on cold starts, without it even being that cold out…..around 50F for an example. I live in Midwest of US, but only ride in the warmer months. So the coldest my bike will see is the 35F in the fall mornings if it sits out wherever I am but temps usually will approach mid 60s as the day warms up.
If you put a piece of aluminum foil over your exhaust pipe you don’t have as much cleaning and smoke.
Thanks. Good tip!