RWW203 Panel Clamps
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- Опубліковано 27 жов 2016
- Gluing up a panel of more than 3 boards can get a little dicey as the glue sodden surfaces slip and slide around. I decided to make some panel clamps to make the while process a lot easier. I made one using hardware from Lee Valley and then created my own homemade version of the hardware.
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Easily the most informative video I've seen in a while. Not only did I learn what panel clamps were (I didnt know), but I also learned how to DIY hack them for a whole lot cheaper. Brilliant video, Shannon! Thanks for sharing.
I've never seen any other youtuber use a clamp like this for panel glue ups. It just makes sense! Thanks for video!
www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31181&cat=1,43838
I just made this exact setup, using dowels/tee-nuts/bolts to replicate the Veritas clamps. And using power tools to make the clamp boards. Wow, serious respect on milling and drilling those things completely by hand power. What a work out!
What size wood dowels you used? If they are wood do they are able to withstand the pressure from the sides? I want to make that setup too but that hardware here is pretty expensive.
I have 15 sets of the Veritas panel clamps, there great.
I sure enjoy watching a lefty work in their shop. Very nice DIY panel clamps. Your channel is my favorite woodworking channel. It's all your fault that I have been slowly eschewing power tools.
Great. Some functional ideas. Many thanks from England. John
I've tried both beeswax and wax paper to prevent gluing cauls to work pieces. I've found the best method for preventing gluing a reusable caul to the work piece is to cover the caul with clear packing tape. This lasts virtually forever (unlike wax) and they are always ready to go without additional preparation (unlike wax paper). I hope this helps.
Having a hand planer that's as dialed in as yours must make planing so fun
THANK YOU! I can't tell you how many options I looked into and none of the ones that were truly affordable and WORKED. For ever grateful!!!
Great looking clamps Shannon, thanks for the share and the idea.
Shannon. This is awesome. I was looking for a solution for this and I made a much more labor intense clamping method. Your process is perfect
You are going to be the Renaissance Machinist in future, I like that post drill.
Great idea, I may make those this weekend. I already have the LV clamp. Would have been nice to have a list of the hardware but I guess I can watch it again to get the sizes. Thank you for sharing the great idea.
Wow, great build!!
Hey brother. Finally starting on mine this evening when/if we ever get home from a board meeting and parent meeting 😂
Been putting it off until I had panels that needed paneling.
Excellent video. I love shop built clamps and these have style!
Now those are cool. Great work. Thanks for adding to my list of things to make! LOL
Wood By Wright I like watching your videos too.
The The and I ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
great idea! and I like that you built your own!
Really excellent video! Thanks so much. Great idea, I love it!!
Great project. Thanks so much!
"I rest my forehead on the pad of the brace..."
I'm so glad I'm not the only one who does that! It feels absurd, but especially if you're working with a brace with a large swing it really does help.
Definitely not the only one. You can find reference to this technique in very old texts. Its the best way to get a precise hole
Interesting! It certainly seemed to work well, so I'm glad I stumbled on it.
Nice one Shannon ... thanks
These are really cool. I heard you talking about them on Wood talk. I think some packing tape on the clamping faces with holes punched in it for the hardware would be a bit quicker solution to the glue squeeze out issue. Thanks for the homemade solution Shannon!
Thanks for the money saving ideas.
Very nice idea! I have to make my own
I just finished yesterday the design of my panel clamps and on the screw side i'm using a thick flat bar with a hole and a nut welded to it. For the long bars i'm using square metal tubes with the same round holes and a round 5 inch bar to lock the panel
The 'Cauls' on a discarded wooden pallet would probably do the job after cleaning up, and they are approx 48" long.. But 'Free'. I use pallet wood for a lot of my projects and this would fit the bill nicely.
great video, I have to make these
Very slick!!!
Thanks for posting this up! Today I saw an ad for Veritas' panel clamps and then saw the price...yeah, no. Searched YT for a video on it, found yours, and started making a set of three pairs today. Total outlay? $18!
Update: I milled the boards for this clamp last night and glued up my first panel with it. It's amazingly easy to do and QUICK! No finagling with leveling the boards, no worry about excess pressure causing the panel to bow as it's clamped. This morning, before work, I removed the now dry panel and tossed in the boards to make a matching panel in under five minutes, and that was working slowly.
Anybody gluing up panels should build this!
Well the price has gone way up. Just looked them up (May 2020) and they are running $62.50, so off to the hardware store I go. Thanks for the tip. Just think I almost bought woodpeckers clamps that were $400. With this savings I should buy you a cold one.
Great job, I will make a set, tip use packing tape on your glue surface where it touches your clamps
you know i like idea of panel clamp a table saw and drill press and even a jointer works good too, if you want old school take the window shaker out of the shop
use a bolt and a nut stronger and can tighten them up to squeeze material - good idea
Nice one thanks
Awesome!
Hi there from Portugal,
Q: Will the thread damage the holes?
Obrigado(Thanks)
Great video. I can't believe it took me this long to find it. I have been wanting to see a tool review of that product for a few years now. Can you please give us an update on the system and if you would do anything different? Thanks
For a non-stick surface, one could also try UHMW tape.
I have to wonder how long those magnets will hold up to the clamping pressure. A rounded nut and a two piece block might work out better.
Hey Shannon, I really appreciated this video. I fuss so much with my parallel jaw clamps trying to get panels flush... I was thinking of making cauls, but why not make cauls that also clamp!
Now that it's been several months since you posted this video, how have these clamps been working out in your shop? Did they see use in projects since then, and if so have they met your expectations?
Great video love those clamps...I have a question about your post drill...I have the same one, when I installed my chuck arbor, I ended up with a slight wobble...it's still works but holes tend to be slightly larger than the bit size...I'm wondering if you would share which drill chuck arbor you used and which chuck you went with?
excellent video shannon! one note about the curved caul method - if instead of an apex (ie, parabolic curvature), if you instead bowed the cauls to a constant radius, i think it would work. narrower panels would have less curvature and wider panels would have more, but always the same radius, and that's exactly what they need.
LOVE that you used the Post Drill! Is yours a Buffalo Forge? I have a Silver No 1 ca 1911 to refurb and set up when I have a shop to use it in.
This is perfect for me! I'm a disabled man and think I could easily work these. Could you supply me with a link to the same Bench Dogs that you are showing? I looked at Veritas' website and all I got from there was confused. Great idea, great video!
Really like your home made hardware, and that post drill is awesome. I wonder though. Why can you not use an auger bit in the post drill? Also being a metal working tool, does it have the right speeds and feeds for woodworking? Again, I don't see how the forstner bit should be much slower than the auger if you could just feed it in sufficiently fast.
neistridlar an auger but feeds itself via the lead screw. So unless the feed rate of the post drill matches the lead screw it wont work. Not to mention the trouble of chucking the pyramidal shank.
I am intrigued by this. Nice work. Please help me, a newbie woodworker, understand how putting horizontal pressure with the clamp also gives verticle pressure. Thanks.
this is covered in the comments below a few time. Consider a rubber band
@@RenaissanceWW I wasn't able to find where the vertical pressure question was covered in the prior comments. In the video you explained that vertical pressure occurred, but not how. I tried making a mini "practice" version of this before taking the dive, and no vertical biting happened at all. Not sure what I did wrong! I hope you can answer b/c I want this system to work. It looks great and will save me mega $$. Thank you for your time!
@@greggentry2009:
He is vastly overstating the case for vertical pressure being applied by the clamp. The way these clamps work is that the friction between the posts and the caul holes -- as the clamp is tightened -- prevents the cauls from sliding away from the work (the threads in the posts increase the hold, but these clamps can be made with smooth dowels and work almost as well). But it is important that you apply pressure yourself to press the cauls together while you are tightening the clamp (the Lee Valley instructions emphasize that point). Whatever pressure you apply while tightening should be held once the clamp is tightened (by friction between the posts and the caul holes). But there is no magical force applied vertically from a horizontal clamp. He seems to think the cauls are somehow stretched into pressing together by the clamping force, but that is nonsense. At best, if you started with thin, bowed cauls, then the clamping force could stretch them straight, but even then you would need to be pressing down at both ends of the cauls while you tighten the clamp, otherwise there would be minimal vertical pressure. But since his cauls are thick and not bowed, even that is not a factor.
I use the Veritas panel clamps all the time. And very rarely is downward pressure needed, if so add a couple C clamps. It's not rocket science.
Such a simple and economical solution! Definitely on my to-make list now. Do you think a star knob on the adjustable end would provide enough leverage for sufficient clamping pressure. It would eliminate the need for the ratchet, and woodpeckers makes awesome star knobs that will receive a 3/8" bolt head, they are cheap and they look pretty too! I also like the idea of the through hole in the wood piece on the stationary post that someone else mentioned.
Yes I think that would work. In fact it might prevent you from over torquing the clamp which we can do easily with the leverage of a socket wrench. If you have to apply that much pressure to close up a joint, then you probably need to make a better fitting joint.
RenaissanceWW I agree! Again, thanks for the awesome video. There was a New Yankee vibe to it. Very well thought out, making the project approachable, just like Norm.
RenaissanceWW www.woodpeck.com/multiknob.html - just in case you are interested.
How do they pull the cauls down. I don’t understand how tightening that bolt pulls them together.
and you can cheat a bit more by using a drive adapter for the socket and use a cordless drill (obviously I'm a heathen power tool user!) do like it though.
That electricity meter you have is probably not ringing up too many watts 😊
Instead of wax paper you could use strips of plastic cut from an old coffee can lid. Lay them on the glue lines (top and bottom) and their thickness will act like a bow in the clamps while at the same time preventing the work from gluing itself to the clamps.
Would solid oak slats laminated together work with this? I have loads laying around but nothing that resembles 50mm thick. Just glueing them up to get there required thickness work?
That would work.
@RenaissanceWW or other person, what is it about this setup that makes the cauls clamp onto the flat surface of the plans being clamped, please? It seems to me that the threads on the rods might just set the cauls loose unless preclamped onto the pieces being glued, but obviously not. Thanks
PS a lovely use of hand tools, thanks for showing that off..
its less about clamping and more about restraining. The cauls provide a flat surface on top and bottom that prevents the individual boards from slipping up and down.
@@RenaissanceWW thanks :)
nice project. I still do'nt see though how the bars would come to clamp the boards flat to one another. can you explain that? cheers.
Flip de boer see my rubber band analogy below in the comments.
I have 15 sets and use all the time. Very rarely have I need to add downward pressure. When needed I add a couple C clamps.
Does the Lee Valley hardware use acme threads? And have you noticed any degree of damage caused by the threads of the 3/4" rods biting into the holes?
no damage from the threads, but its still early days. However with a good hard wood in the cauls I think any wear will only increase the vertical clamping pressure as the posts will be able to slide and cam better. As far as the threads on the Lee Valley hardware, I don't think so, but I'm not sure. The look pretty fine for Acme threads, but then again I'm not the best judge of what is Acme and what isn't.
The roadrunner will know!
Here's my take away. You said hybrid milling, Marc may want to sue you for using his trade marked word hybrid. Secondly don't steal your wife's wax paper. Get your own.
Lol! Great video and awesome use of hardware locally sourced.
I was wondering if over time u have noticed any damage to the holes in the wood from the threads?
Just use steel
What do you think about using just a fix block of wood in one end and a wood wedge on the other end?? Wedges are ok to hold pieces in place, but I don't know if they could provide enough pressure for a panel glue up.
Absolutely, you are describing clamps often found in 18th century shops. Don't overestimate how much pressure you need for a panel joint. If you can't close the joint with hand pressure alone, you need to tweak the joint until it does.
@@RenaissanceWW I thought I was being really cleaver by this wedge idea, but turns out is a method that's been around for centuries (lol). I will plane the boards the best I can before trying to joint them with the wedges (I'm building my first workbench).
@@OrangeGeemer ha ha not a lot new in this craft but most of us have forgotten more than we know so keep asking questions and finding other ways to do things. Its all options for the quiver.
👏👏👏🇧🇷
if you heat bend the 3/8 bolt at 90 degrees that would make an easy handle.
yeah but then I don't get the cool "I'm getting things done" clickety clack of the socket wrench. It's essential for any high energy musical montage.
this is true
Is there a purpose for the screws on the ends/sides of the lumber?
Ty Moser just a belt and suspenders prevention for potential blow out with pressure so near the end of the wooden bar.
RenaissanceWW kind of funny that you say that. I heard you say belt and suspenders literally ten minutes ago while I was doing yard work.
hello sometime back you talked about buying wood at a balt wood shop. I would love to go their but i cant remember the name can you tell me the name
thanks
Ok. I missed something here. Where does the down pressure come from again
I use those all the time and downward pressure is very rarely needed. When it is add a couple C clamps. Its not rocket science.
@@Take-Me-To- like I stated earlier, downward pressure is very rarely needed. And when it is needed a couple C clamps is all that's needed..... l have 15 sets of the Veritas panel clamps and really like them and use them steady.
I like this idea - for the rear post, why not just drill a 3/4" hole through a block of wood, put in a set screw, and skip the whole coupler, magnet setup?
yeah that's a whole lot simpler. Leave it to me to overcomplicate things
Magnet ?
How does the compression from the edge of the boards cause pressure down onto the face of the boards?
the posts in the bars shift back causing the bars to squeeze together. Imagine a rubber band. Put two fingers in it and spread your fingers. The rubber band goes taut and the gap in the middle decreases.
The magnet to let the thread swing is genius, thank you. But you said to leave the second magnet flush, then I see the threaded rod actually goes inside the wood, did I understand this wrong? Thank you again
There are 2 clamping blocks. One has the magnet flush and it just sticks to the static post. The other one slides onto the threaded rod and does the actual clamping. I suppose a magnet inside that isn't necessary since the rode slides into the block, but I like having the magnet in there to keep the block from falling off.
@@RenaissanceWW Thanks very much for answering! I think the magnet is a great idea, on both sides
@@RenaissanceWW I'm now thinking that the magnet also can stop the wood block from marring, but to much pressure sometimes breaks magnets. I'll give it a go and see!
Use the wider side of the rear post, not the way you have it.
That's a nifty idea there. Does it matter which way the end grain is going on the board? Do you need it to be springy or doesn't it matter. Thanks.
Jimbo L nope shouldn't matter. Just a hardwood. The thickness gives you plenty of stiffness
' I've never seen this before. I guess I'm not understanding why more people don't use this simple, easy, method. It seems like the ultimate problem solver for panel glue ups. Guess I've been subbed to the wrong channels all these years.
Thanks for your response. It's laminated pallet stringers for me then! Yep, off to Home Depot for the hardware.
What is that A hanging on the wall ?
A square for making.
"Atheist"
Thank you
05:53 Or.. make these wonder dogs DIY.
Great job I would do something else try somehow covering the threads with a sleeve so they don't tear out the wood thumbs up my friend I just subscribed
great work! would you be willing to make a few sets and post them out if I paid for them???
sorry I just don't have the free time for that. Its a simple design and with a free day in the shop I'm sure you could make some for yourself
down under wood works made a great panel clamp. but instead of the block of wood that he threads I think his would work better with a threaded coupler like you did.
you destroy buisnes of that company :)
down under wood works made a great panel clamp. but instead of the block of wood that he threads I think his would work better with a threaded coupler like you did