A few notes from me: We have two other trailers so I built this trailer with the sole intention of hauling around kayaks. With that, my mast is permanently fixed to the trailer, but another option to consider if you build this is to make the mast portion removable so you could use the trailer as a regular hauler for other things. I spent $240 on the trailer then another $235 on steel, wood, and paint. So total this project cost $475. I originally intended to build the entire trailer from scratch however buying an axle with springs, mounts, and tires was going to cost me $400 whereas this HF trailer costs $240 and it comes with everything needed including lights. PS: Don't forget the 20% off coupon. This particular trailer actually has the ability to fold in half, however I don't need it to fold and by modifying it I killed that feature.
I think I'm in love. April used to be a cute Redhead, doing wood projects, and painting. Now, she's a kick ass metal worker, making all kinds of projects. (And, she is STILL a cute Redhead!) steve
Exactly what I was thinking while you were welding the verticals to the trailer...why doesn't she make those removable for a multi-purpose trailer?? ...makes sense now. BTW, you're a badass, April!
Pretty slick project. I did one similar to this a while back, I added a box to store life jackets and such. I also added a small water container with a pump to hose off feet and equipment when pulling the kayaks out of the water. It works great. Thanks for posting!
If you don't use the boats often, ratchet straps are fine, but just remember that metal on the plastic is going to cause wear and tear and it is easy to over tighten and deform the mold. Decent rope and a trucker's hitch will do you just as good.
I’ve never built anything in my life but I’ve always wanted to learn to weld and woodwork. I signed up for wood shop in high school only to drop it because I was the only girl in there. How I regret that! Can’t wait to take classes some day. You are an inspiration!
The build looks great. Instead of the foam and electrical tape for padding, I would suggest some cheap pool noodles to slide over the arms. They will still protect the kayak and can easily be slid off and replaced as needed. As always, love your videos.
I've seen pool noodles being used I'm just not a fan of how they look. Also, they don't last long in the sun at all. I'm going to see how long these knee pads last and go from there. If they break down just as quick then I might switch to noodles.
Awesome job April, Harbor freight trailer never looked so good...You are hardcore structural with your gussets and welding of trailer first..... all respect to you, keep the videos coming
Glad you added those gussets. When I was in the military we re-welded every fender mount on our trucks. They where thick enough but the vibrations made them crack and fall into the tires. Added gussets and the problem where all gone.
April, Great build!! One piece of advise. Secure the kayaks to the trailer at the bow and stern. Tie down straps can fail and if your tow vehicle stops really hard, those kayaks can become missiles. I have seen those results and if it happens to go over your tow vehicle, it could be a much bigger problem.
Given the fore and aft spread of trailer's support arms, consider placing the kayaks right side up on the rack. Their hulls are designed to take upward pressure at the front and back, and downward pressure in the middle. By flipping them upside down on a rack that supports them so close to the ends of the boats, they are getting exactly the opposite. (If the spread were closer together, as is common on car roof racks, then upsidedown is better.) On a very hot day the plastic becomes soft, and you might hit a big pothole and end up dimpling the hull. It's probably unlikely, but it did happen to me once. We used a heatgun to soften it enough to pop it back into place!
The tie down solution is simple and effective! Built one similar a couple years ago for a friend to hold six boats (canoes or kayaks) with salvage materials using metal bed rails. Not sure that was the best material choice after using the same material for some for other projects. Has held up great so far but mild steel is probably the better choice...
Very nice trailer. Quick tip for holding your padding on. Try plastic automotive wire ties (zip ties) instead of electrical tape. They work great and are very easy to remove when the time comes. We use them to hold foam padding onto race car roll bars.
Will be building my own multi kayak trailer for larger fishing kayaks from my old boat trailer. However, I’ll be making and installing the framework using U-Bolts so that if I ever decide to sell the trailer as a boat trailer, I can do so by unbolting the framework. Also using EMT for runners. Nice job on this one April.
Sweet welding helmet. You can use a hot knife or rope cutter to shorten your ratchet straps. I found a rope cutter attachment that fits my soldering iron, I cut more rope and straps with it than I solder anymore.
Hi, April, Great Kayak trailer build, we had never seen one built before, you did a wonderful job, enjoy the results of all your hard work. Thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!
I'm pretty sure you're a professional welder, builder, designer, speaker, etc....and not a DIY'er! Your design concept, skills and thought process really show in this video. Thanks for the 'show and tell' ....and another awesome video! ....13
Very nice build with just a couple things I did differently that worked very well for me over the last 4 years of good hard use. first I mounted my lights higher than the factory mount level which made them much easier to see by other drivers, second I cut the load arms of the rack so they tipped up about a quarter to a half bubble so your kayaks will want to stay on the trailer. Lastly I mounted a D ring to the inside face of each arm so it is in the same plane as the arm to use as a tie point but your drilled holes also work well too Have a good day and a better tomorrow
The mount you attached the lights to was for the dollies (used to roll around when folded) the factory location for the lights is toward the back (two holes) and non painted L bracket is used.
Some great ideas there...I just bought 5 kayaks and need to modify a box trailer to suit. Thanks for the video April. I hope to integrate some of your design features.
Nice tip on the HF trailer. They also have a stouter one for those wishing to hail heavier items. The upper model (still under $400) is rated at just over 3/4 ton.
Thomas Russell The "upper model", as you call it, uses the same steel for the frame/tongue & same axle/leaf springs, but it does come with heavier capacity rated tires.
Great work! I am hooked on your videos! I tend to over complicate things so I appreciate your way of problem solving, I learn so much from your stuff!!
You are the hero I didn't know I needed today! Keep on with your badassery! This video was so detailed and concise! I think it may be the best instructional video Ive ever seen on UA-cam.
We have 13'6" kayaks, so the HF trailer wasn't long enough. I found an old boat trailer on craigslist to modify. I looked into buying something premade, or having something built and the quotes just floored me. I did have one place offer to make a 5x8 Utility trailer with an extendable hitchfor more clearance for around $650 however.
If you weld on a short piece of pipe with an oversized washer as a slip cap, you would be able to use one rachet strap on each end to tie down two kayaks. Put the pipe on the inside of the frame from the front pointing towards the back and reverse for the back end. set the pipe just at or a little higher than the support rack the kayaks rest on. Then when you tie down, you hook to the outside of one kayak and loop the strap under the pipe and over the next kayak and connect with the rachet end that is hooked on the outside of the other kayak. this will save time in loading and unloading, and save on the hassle and expense of having to have two straps for each kayak.
Some handy tips: heat the metal before painting, it makes the paint bond better to the surface. Also, consider using rubber-wrappdd ratchets, as the ones you have now will scrape and abrase the kayak. PS: would love a reply. Fellow DIY'er
It would be super difficult to heat the entire trailer before painting. However, I am in Texas and it was sitting in the sun prior to painting. : ) For straps, I actually ordered some that are retractable and they are the shit! They have rubber so I'm now covered on that front. ; )
April Wilkerson That Texan heat probably does help a lot. I use acetylene/oxygen torch, and a Rustoleum spray can. Hope you post some photos, will look for that :D
Sick! I just picked up a single jet ski trailer off Facebook marketplace for $700 that I’m going to modify to haul 9 SUPS and 1 • 13.5’ Tarpin sit on top kayak. Your fab is top notch 👍🏼🤘🏼I’m pumped about my trailer because the stock hull slips is perfect for the super big Yak we have and I don’t have to fab up anything on that part of my build, so that makes it super cool cuz I’m sure I’d drag my feet on that part haha
Another great build video! Be sure to watch those bearings very closely. Also order a couple spares now before you need them, I believe they are a non standard size.
Awesome build! My wife and I Kayak and I've thought about doing something similar. I was thinking about doing removable supports so I can dual use the trailer.
Great job April. I have a trailer that I don't use too often because I need to do some upgrades to make it much more useable. My kayaking years are behind me for the near future, but maybe this will motivate me to do the upgrades I've been dragging my feet on.
Nice build. I actually used on of the HF trailers for a DIY motorcycle hauler recently. I would consider making some additional support brackets from the fenders. With just the two factory bolt mounts they tend to fracture over time. I just did a couple metal straps from top of the fender to the trailer deck surface. Also you likely did it already but if not be sure clean out the factory bearing grease and re-pack with a moly or synthetic type.
Very nice video, use hot knife to shorten the ratchet straps, no fraying of the ends. Need to add marker lights and reflectors for saftey. Thanks for the video, looking forward to many more, Greg
nice trailer mod April.since you went and welded the folding seam and added rigidity to the over all frame might i suggest you weld the tongue piece as well. yes its held to the trailer by two big pins but that also creates a bit of slop and chatter when hauling down the road. welding the tongue parts to the frame would help that. i have the same trailer i ended up bolting that part to try to lessen the slopping around.
I love watching your builds, the only down side is that I wish you were able to put out more content I.E. weekly/Daily. But I do understand the difficulty that that would entail. Great job on the trailer. Reminds me of one I built when I lived in Colorado.
Cam straps are the way to go for kayaks! Ratchet straps are dangerous, because if the yak shifts and the strap loses tension, the hook falls out (5:35).
Have got say that you do as good if not a better job of welding as some professionals that I've worked with in the past. And yes I'm even taking in account the fact that you're using a Wire Feed TIG Welder. Yes they are easy to use, but I've known of several Pros that couldn't lay a bead like yours. Well Done 👍
You mentioned that you put in exterior rated boards and said you could easily replace them later if needed. My suggestion is that when you give the wood as few weeks in the sun to cure, to use exterior deck stain for protection from moisture and UV. It is a lot cheaper than replacing the wood. I know it is a little late but treating the underside of the deck with a protective coating is also a good idea. The underside of the trailer can get more damage from road debris than you realize - plus a lot of mud that traps moisture, if you do a fair amount of dirt road use.
No I used untreated wood and used an exterior rated finish on them. I gave all the deck boards three coats of the exterior rated finish before putting them on the trailer. : ) So it's all good.
I bought one of those trailers several years ago. I'm not sure if they have changed but you may want to check the rating. My trailer is rated for 35 MPH max.
Thats some nice work right there April, good job with the welding and the gussets. It really turned out great. Good thinking modding the pre fab trailer to suit. I have done the same with other things, sometimes its just cheaper to buy a pre made item and then modify it to suit. No wonder you're so pleased with how this turned out! thumbs up!
Nice build! Just a welding tip... when you finish a bead don't remove the tip of the MIG gun too quickly. Let the shielding gas continue to flow until the weld stops glowing orange. Also, adding some metal mesh or even some nice wood strips along the low wall would definitely help keep gear in on a bumpy road.
Thanks for the welding tip! I actually bought some expanded metal with that intention but didn't go through with adding it because I didn't think I would use the deck. Since it's attached to the truck, it's easier to throw the paddles and cooler in the bed. : )
nice work rosie the riveter look out - here comes wilkerdos welder. lol an enclosed box in the triangle of the itch would be nice for life preservers and misc. you could make it lockable too.
Just a tip for kayaks. You really shouldn't use ratchet straps as they can be hard to tell if you're overtightening. And you can damage the hull of your kayak by doing so. Loading mine in the bed of my truck, I initially used ratchet straps and a small portion of my hull is depressed inward. Fortunately its not a super expensive kayak but it's a lesson learned for sure. A good quality cam buckle strap is what's best. The ones from walmart are not good just an FYI haha. I really do like the look of the trailer you made. Gives me some ideas for an adventure trailer
Just bought the 1750 lb trailer still sitting in my truck. I've seen other videos but the work on the presented trailer is really well done, clean and still retains the ability to fold it. Just what I was hoping for because my daughter has those cradles that I was trying to figure out how to mount. I have the steel to elongate the tongue. I would like to see the kayaks mounted. Is the tongue long enough?
April Wilkerson true. Texas heat is unforgiving for welding. Sometimes I just ware sleeves or a fr shirt. And a fan and sweat band and welding cap .... Hahaha
My wife has figured out how to tell if I am watching a "Wilkerson" video, I keep hollering "OH COOL". I love the tie-down non-brackets, simpler is better, cheaper and probably stronger than anything you could bolt-on. I'm going to go see if I can adapt your idea to my almost finished trailer.
: ) Haha I love that. Yeah I think the holes in the bottom are by far the best and simplest option. I've used the trailer twice now since this video and they work so great. Very simple and quick but sturdy.
That did turn out nice. If it is a purpose built trailer storing the kayaks on it with a tarp is a no brainer. Always loaded and ready to go, more time to spend on the water.
I don't plan to store the kayaks here when out of the water. I built a rack for them last week that keeps them out of the direct sunlight. However, I suppose storing them on the trailer with a UK protection tarp would be handy if somebody didn't have a dedicated storage rack.
Nice job! I made one last summer with the same hf trailer. I used wood sides and a ladder rack I already had, but would like to someday go back and do something similar to yours. Also FYI, hf had a recall on the tires. I returned my two and they gave me brand new ones.
I would consider strapping the front and back of the kayak down to the trailer, if you have to make a sudden stop the kayak could break free and go flying forward off the trailer, maybe go at a angle to your lower rail better to be safe.There have been cases of this, even from kayak raks on cars and trucks.
April you could have eliminated all those bolts going through wood floor with a metal band welded to both sides to hold them down....nice job! If you get into a lot of metal workings you should buy an Ironworker
Didn't know you were a welder as well! Great work, you designed an awesome kayak trailer. It will serve you well for years to come! Really liked this how to vid. For me being a Boy Scout leader for many years and going on numerous Troop yak floats using a Camp trailer very similar to your design. I will say you addressed issues up front that we confronted and repaired numerous times for good support on the uprights. I always hated the eyes they used on that camp trailer for tie down straps(in the way loading and unloading). Drilling your holes under the cross bars will work much more efficiently and safely as well! Enjoyed and thank you!
I'm glad to hear your input! People keep suggesting the eyelet hooks and I keep saying they would have been in the way. : ) Good to know you liked the video.
Awesome job! You could always double the strap back to the the other side instead of cutting or buying new ones. That's pretty much how all surfboards are strapped to roof racks, it helps add friction, sort of like a chinese finger trap.
Travel tip: When strapping down your kayaks, put a twist in the flat straps to keep them from flapping and damaging your kayaks. ESPECIALLY if they are on your roof... the sound is annoying! But more so to keep the straps from cutting into your kayak
Man, is that nice! I just bought a 7x12 utility trailer and I'm looking to add something like this for my kayaks. I'd be looking for to do something that's removal so I can then use the trailer for my side x side. Some great ideas you gave me! Subscribed....
I assume that you didn't run into any grounding issues with the trailer, because of all the additional metal that was added. I ended up having to run separate ground wires to each light because I haven't welded the frame yet. Great video, keep up the good work.
Great project, when it comes to the deck boards weathering you can buy the green wood protection product to increase the lifespan of the deck. I believe it's called copper II wood preservative made by armoral.
I almost decided to build my own trailer (in fact, this very same one from Harbor Freight), but I don't have all the tools to weld and cut, so I went ahead and bought something from a dealer- it cost me $1980 for a 5'x10' with wood flooring and a removable gate. After this, I purchased a Haul Master Universal Truck Rack (800 lbs capacity) for about $279, built it, and installed it on the trailer. My next step was to purchase the Field & Stream 5-in-1 kayak carrier for $150 and attach it to the truck rack. I'm still working out the final details on 2 more modifications to the kayak trailer set-up, but my end cost as of right now is approximately $2400. So, I spent about $2k more than you did. I put in about 4 hours of my time for the truck rack build and install. How much time did you spend building the whole thing (from the HF trailer kit to the mods and paint)? I'm just curious.
That's a new idea for those HFT trailers, and your welding skills have much improved. It looks good, Though I'm a little surprised you didn't beef up the finders, knowing full you will (at sometime) accidentally step on them. Especially when your on a grade(incline) and the trailer height is a little more than you. That was a problem I've had with skiff (tiny fishing boat) trailers.
nice project. I made one out of the same trailer 4 months ago! mine is used for carrying kayaks but also as a trailer. I have higher sides. Good luck and happy paddling.
April this is Mike in Waco Texas I watch your stuff all the time I noticed on your kayak trailer you used a Harbor Freight trailer just a little hint that we have found I'm in the process of building a teardrop camper on my Harbor Freight trailer that I've had for years and mine is one of those that folds up like yours but we have noticed where the pull pins are to fold the tongue up it causes the trailer to do a lot of bouncing and a lot of rattling noises so you may want to pull them pins and needed well that together or put bolts in there so you can secure it tighter because the bouncing on it could cause your kayaks to bounce too much around our stuff on the trailer and bounce off the trailer itself just a little hint that we have learned in the past thank you for all your videos I enjoy watching them I look forward to watching them almost every Sunday night on UA-cam
Turns out Mike is not your only fan in Waco. I also live in the Waco area and have learned a lot from watching your videos. They are extremely well done. Heck, I even watch the ones that I have no real interest in building just because I learn so much and they are enjoyable. Around here, Chip and Joanne are better known but they don't do the work themselves and the quality of their projects is no where near what you build. They are all show and very little substance. You, on the other hand, provide real, down-to-earth advice, techniques, and ideas, while still making it very entertaining. My only problem is that, as a 67 year-old guy that has been building stuff most of my life, I had to accept that I could learn so much from a young woman. Eyes and mind now officially open in Waco. Thanks!
A few notes from me: We have two other trailers so I built this trailer with the sole intention of hauling around kayaks. With that, my mast is permanently fixed to the trailer, but another option to consider if you build this is to make the mast portion removable so you could use the trailer as a regular hauler for other things.
I spent $240 on the trailer then another $235 on steel, wood, and paint. So total this project cost $475.
I originally intended to build the entire trailer from scratch however buying an axle with springs, mounts, and tires was going to cost me $400 whereas this HF trailer costs $240 and it comes with everything needed including lights. PS: Don't forget the 20% off coupon.
This particular trailer actually has the ability to fold in half, however I don't need it to fold and by modifying it I killed that feature.
Hi April, I'm first. Make a trophy for me please ;)
I think I'm in love.
April used to be a cute Redhead,
doing wood projects, and painting.
Now, she's a kick ass metal worker,
making all kinds of projects. (And,
she is STILL a cute Redhead!)
steve
Exactly what I was thinking while you were welding the verticals to the trailer...why doesn't she make those removable for a multi-purpose trailer?? ...makes sense now.
BTW, you're a badass, April!
Nice video. I've considered buying one of these HF trailers, but I've heard the wheels are only rated for 55 MPH. Can you confirm that?
What a great idea.
I am saving this video, this is EXACTLY what I want to build. Only that trailer is $500 now not $240.
Pretty slick project. I did one similar to this a while back, I added a box to store life jackets and such. I also added a small water container with a pump to hose off feet and equipment when pulling the kayaks out of the water. It works great. Thanks for posting!
Nice add ons. I'm using the bed of the truck but a storage box would be nice.
If you don't use the boats often, ratchet straps are fine, but just remember that metal on the plastic is going to cause wear and tear and it is easy to over tighten and deform the mold. Decent rope and a trucker's hitch will do you just as good.
I’ve never built anything in my life but I’ve always wanted to learn to weld and woodwork. I signed up for wood shop in high school only to drop it because I was the only girl in there. How I regret that! Can’t wait to take classes some day. You are an inspiration!
The build looks great. Instead of the foam and electrical tape for padding, I would suggest some cheap pool noodles to slide over the arms. They will still protect the kayak and can easily be slid off and replaced as needed. As always, love your videos.
I've seen pool noodles being used I'm just not a fan of how they look. Also, they don't last long in the sun at all. I'm going to see how long these knee pads last and go from there. If they break down just as quick then I might switch to noodles.
Awesome job April, Harbor freight trailer never looked so good...You are hardcore structural with your gussets and welding of trailer first..... all respect to you, keep the videos coming
Great job April, this trailer can also be used to carry lumber, plumbing and other building supplies, awesome!!
That's true! It could actually be used to carry a huge variety of things.
Glad you added those gussets.
When I was in the military we re-welded every fender mount on our trucks.
They where thick enough but the vibrations made them crack and fall into the tires.
Added gussets and the problem where all gone.
Nicest kayak trailer build I’ve seen and well planned and executed workmanship. Thank you for sharing awesome lady.
April, Great build!! One piece of advise. Secure the kayaks to the trailer at the bow and stern. Tie down straps can fail and if your tow vehicle stops really hard, those kayaks can become missiles. I have seen those results and if it happens to go over your tow vehicle, it could be a much bigger problem.
April, I dream of woodworking and building! Thank you for showing you work! Thank you thank you thank you. Blessings.
Another great job by Ms April!!!! Simple, straight forward, yet still having some education value! GREAT JOB!!!!
She's definitely one of the people you'd need on board if a zombie apocalypse happens.
Simply, you crushed it once again! I dig how you welded the joints on the original frame...
: ) Thank Andy, this was a fun build.
Given the fore and aft spread of trailer's support arms, consider placing the kayaks right side up on the rack. Their hulls are designed to take upward pressure at the front and back, and downward pressure in the middle. By flipping them upside down on a rack that supports them so close to the ends of the boats, they are getting exactly the opposite. (If the spread were closer together, as is common on car roof racks, then upsidedown is better.) On a very hot day the plastic becomes soft, and you might hit a big pothole and end up dimpling the hull. It's probably unlikely, but it did happen to me once. We used a heatgun to soften it enough to pop it back into place!
The tie down solution is simple and effective! Built one similar a couple years ago for a friend to hold six boats (canoes or kayaks) with salvage materials using metal bed rails. Not sure that was the best material choice after using the same material for some for other projects. Has held up great so far but mild steel is probably the better choice...
: ) Hey it's cool it's still holding up good.
Very nice trailer. Quick tip for holding your padding on. Try plastic automotive wire ties (zip ties) instead of electrical tape. They work great and are very easy to remove when the time comes. We use them to hold foam padding onto race car roll bars.
Will be building my own multi kayak trailer for larger fishing kayaks from my old boat trailer. However, I’ll be making and installing the framework using U-Bolts so that if I ever decide to sell the trailer as a boat trailer, I can do so by unbolting the framework. Also using EMT for runners. Nice job on this one April.
Sweet welding helmet. You can use a hot knife or rope cutter to shorten your ratchet straps. I found a rope cutter attachment that fits my soldering iron, I cut more rope and straps with it than I solder anymore.
Hi, April, Great Kayak trailer build, we had never seen one built before, you did a wonderful job, enjoy the results of all your hard work. Thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!
I'm pretty sure you're a professional welder, builder, designer, speaker, etc....and not a DIY'er! Your design concept, skills and thought process really show in this video.
Thanks for the 'show and tell' ....and another awesome video!
....13
: ) Nah, far from it. I hope to be a pro someday but right now I still have tons to learn. Glad you enjoyed this one though!
Very nice build with just a couple things I did differently that worked very well for me over the last 4 years of good hard use. first I mounted my lights higher than the factory mount level which made them much easier to see by other drivers, second I cut the load arms of the rack so they tipped up about a quarter to a half bubble so your kayaks will want to stay on the trailer. Lastly I mounted a D ring to the inside face of each arm so it is in the same plane as the arm to use as a tie point but your drilled holes also work well too
Have a good day and a better tomorrow
The mount you attached the lights to was for the dollies (used to roll around when folded) the factory location for the lights is toward the back (two holes) and non painted L bracket is used.
Some great ideas there...I just bought 5 kayaks and need to modify a box trailer to suit. Thanks for the video April. I hope to integrate some of your design features.
Another talent every time I look up. Texas ladies are amazing.
; )
Nice tip on the HF trailer. They also have a stouter one for those wishing to hail heavier items. The upper model (still under $400) is rated at just over 3/4 ton.
Thomas Russell The "upper model", as you call it, uses the same steel for the frame/tongue & same axle/leaf springs, but it does come with heavier capacity rated tires.
Great work! I am hooked on your videos! I tend to over complicate things so I appreciate your way of problem solving, I learn so much from your stuff!!
Nicely done April. I have a similar trailer from H/F and put big box 2x's and they are still good after 12 years!!!
this might be my favorite build yet! What an ingenious use of an existing trailer. I am going to be stealing this one.
: ) Steal away. Glad you like it.
Great Job April. This might be my favorite video of yours to date. Nicely Done..
You are the hero I didn't know I needed today! Keep on with your badassery! This video was so detailed and concise! I think it may be the best instructional video Ive ever seen on UA-cam.
Glad you liked it and found it useful. Thanks for watching.
We have 13'6" kayaks, so the HF trailer wasn't long enough. I found an old boat trailer on craigslist to modify. I looked into buying something premade, or having something built and the quotes just floored me. I did have one place offer to make a 5x8 Utility trailer with an extendable hitchfor more clearance for around $650 however.
If you weld on a short piece of pipe with an oversized washer as a slip cap, you would be able to use one rachet strap on each end to tie down two kayaks. Put the pipe on the inside of the frame from the front pointing towards the back and reverse for the back end. set the pipe just at or a little higher than the support rack the kayaks rest on. Then when you tie down, you hook to the outside of one kayak and loop the strap under the pipe and over the next kayak and connect with the rachet end that is hooked on the outside of the other kayak. this will save time in loading and unloading, and save on the hassle and expense of having to have two straps for each kayak.
Some handy tips: heat the metal before painting, it makes the paint bond better to the surface. Also, consider using rubber-wrappdd ratchets, as the ones you have now will scrape and abrase the kayak.
PS: would love a reply.
Fellow DIY'er
It would be super difficult to heat the entire trailer before painting. However, I am in Texas and it was sitting in the sun prior to painting. : ) For straps, I actually ordered some that are retractable and they are the shit! They have rubber so I'm now covered on that front. ; )
April Wilkerson That Texan heat probably does help a lot. I use acetylene/oxygen torch, and a Rustoleum spray can. Hope you post some photos, will look for that :D
Sick! I just picked up a single jet ski trailer off Facebook marketplace for $700 that I’m going to modify to haul 9 SUPS and 1 • 13.5’ Tarpin sit on top kayak. Your fab is top notch 👍🏼🤘🏼I’m pumped about my trailer because the stock hull slips is perfect for the super big Yak we have and I don’t have to fab up anything on that part of my build, so that makes it super cool cuz I’m sure I’d drag my feet on that part haha
Another great build video!
Be sure to watch those bearings very closely. Also order a couple spares now before you need them, I believe they are a non standard size.
Awesome build! My wife and I Kayak and I've thought about doing something similar. I was thinking about doing removable supports so I can dual use the trailer.
Great job April. I have a trailer that I don't use too often because I need to do some upgrades to make it much more useable. My kayaking years are behind me for the near future, but maybe this will motivate me to do the upgrades I've been dragging my feet on.
: ) Yeah you should do it, I was surprised at how straight forward modifying and building a trailer was.
Nice build. I actually used on of the HF trailers for a DIY motorcycle hauler recently. I would consider making some additional support brackets from the fenders. With just the two factory bolt mounts they tend to fracture over time. I just did a couple metal straps from top of the fender to the trailer deck surface. Also you likely did it already but if not be sure clean out the factory bearing grease and re-pack with a moly or synthetic type.
Very nice video, use hot knife to shorten the ratchet straps, no fraying of the ends. Need to add marker lights and reflectors for saftey. Thanks for the video, looking forward to many more, Greg
Over-engineered like a BOSS! Good job and smooth kayaking.
Great job. If you box in the lower section, you will have a secure "locker" for wetsuits, paddles, helmets etc.
nice trailer mod April.since you went and welded the folding seam and added rigidity to the over all frame might i suggest you weld the tongue piece as well. yes its held to the trailer by two big pins but that also creates a bit of slop and chatter when hauling down the road. welding the tongue parts to the frame would help that. i have the same trailer i ended up bolting that part to try to lessen the slopping around.
Great work, thanks for taking the time and sharing!!!!
I love watching your builds, the only down side is that I wish you were able to put out more content I.E. weekly/Daily. But I do understand the difficulty that that would entail. Great job on the trailer. Reminds me of one I built when I lived in Colorado.
Glad you enjoy the content. : )
Exactly what I want to build but with the addition of gear storage under the yaks. Thanks and great job!
Cam straps are the way to go for kayaks! Ratchet straps are dangerous, because if the yak shifts and the strap loses tension, the hook falls out (5:35).
Have got say that you do as good if not a better job of welding as some professionals that I've worked with in the past. And yes I'm even taking in account the fact that you're using a Wire Feed TIG Welder. Yes they are easy to use, but I've known of several Pros that couldn't lay a bead like yours. Well Done 👍
Felicitaciones April !!!! Excelentes trabajos!!! Jorge de Córdoba/ Argentina
You mentioned that you put in exterior rated boards and said you could easily replace them later if needed. My suggestion is that when you give the wood as few weeks in the sun to cure, to use exterior deck stain for protection from moisture and UV. It is a lot cheaper than replacing the wood. I know it is a little late but treating the underside of the deck with a protective coating is also a good idea. The underside of the trailer can get more damage from road debris than you realize - plus a lot of mud that traps moisture, if you do a fair amount of dirt road use.
No I used untreated wood and used an exterior rated finish on them. I gave all the deck boards three coats of the exterior rated finish before putting them on the trailer. : ) So it's all good.
Excellent!
I bought one of those trailers several years ago. I'm not sure if they have changed but you may want to check the rating. My trailer is rated for 35 MPH max.
I think you made a good choice with the wood decking. Wood will drain through and it won't be hot like diamond plate would be.
Thats some nice work right there April, good job with the welding and the gussets. It really turned out great. Good thinking modding the pre fab trailer to suit. I have done the same with other things, sometimes its just cheaper to buy a pre made item and then modify it to suit.
No wonder you're so pleased with how this turned out! thumbs up!
Nice build! Just a welding tip... when you finish a bead don't remove the tip of the MIG gun too quickly. Let the shielding gas continue to flow until the weld stops glowing orange. Also, adding some metal mesh or even some nice wood strips along the low wall would definitely help keep gear in on a bumpy road.
Thanks for the welding tip! I actually bought some expanded metal with that intention but didn't go through with adding it because I didn't think I would use the deck. Since it's attached to the truck, it's easier to throw the paddles and cooler in the bed. : )
The Robotics Code Depot Most mig welders don't have post flow for the gas, when you release the trigger the gas stops.
How awesome is this! You're an inspiration April and another great project.
nice work rosie the riveter look out - here comes wilkerdos welder. lol an enclosed box in the triangle of the itch would be nice for life preservers and misc. you could make it lockable too.
Just a tip for kayaks. You really shouldn't use ratchet straps as they can be hard to tell if you're overtightening. And you can damage the hull of your kayak by doing so. Loading mine in the bed of my truck, I initially used ratchet straps and a small portion of my hull is depressed inward. Fortunately its not a super expensive kayak but it's a lesson learned for sure. A good quality cam buckle strap is what's best. The ones from walmart are not good just an FYI haha. I really do like the look of the trailer you made. Gives me some ideas for an adventure trailer
Just bought the 1750 lb trailer still sitting in my truck. I've seen other videos but the work on the presented trailer is really well done, clean and still retains the ability to fold it. Just what I was hoping for because my daughter has those cradles that I was trying to figure out how to mount. I have the steel to elongate the tongue. I would like to see the kayaks mounted. Is the tongue long enough?
another great project! well done ma'am.
that little HF trailer is so versatile. it makes a great base for so many projects.
Well done! Also glad to see you get the jacket on.
Yeah when I'm just tacking I don't bother, it was 105 when I was welding, but when I'm welding then I go ahead and put on the gear.
April Wilkerson true. Texas heat is unforgiving for welding. Sometimes I just ware sleeves or a fr shirt. And a fan and sweat band and welding cap .... Hahaha
the small square openings at the bottom of your new rack look like great places to put drawers.
My wife has figured out how to tell if I am watching a "Wilkerson" video, I keep hollering "OH COOL". I love the tie-down non-brackets, simpler is better, cheaper and probably stronger than anything you could bolt-on. I'm going to go see if I can adapt your idea to my almost finished trailer.
: ) Haha I love that. Yeah I think the holes in the bottom are by far the best and simplest option. I've used the trailer twice now since this video and they work so great. Very simple and quick but sturdy.
You are awesome, much respect for your natural engineering abilities 🙏🏻
Yes, Yes, That's a super trailer. A +
: ) Thank you
"Shorter ratchet straps" is a funny way of pronouncing "Scissors."
Hahaha, I was actually thinking of the retractable kind but scissors is a much better pronunciation. ; )
don't forget to burn the ends to keep from fraying!
and when you need a pair of long ones you have to buy new ones....... buying a pair of shorter ones is cheaper in the end
I've found that using a heated blade does a better job cutting those straps, cuts & seals in a single step.
Great project! Rosie (the Riveter) would be proud.
That did turn out nice. If it is a purpose built trailer storing the kayaks on it with a tarp is a no brainer. Always loaded and ready to go, more time to spend on the water.
I don't plan to store the kayaks here when out of the water. I built a rack for them last week that keeps them out of the direct sunlight. However, I suppose storing them on the trailer with a UK protection tarp would be handy if somebody didn't have a dedicated storage rack.
April Wilkerson
Nice job on both. You have room for canoes for visitors either way.
Well done project April. Very inspriring!
Nice job! I made one last summer with the same hf trailer. I used wood sides and a ladder rack I already had, but would like to someday go back and do something similar to yours. Also FYI, hf had a recall on the tires. I returned my two and they gave me brand new ones.
I would consider strapping the front and back of the kayak down to the trailer, if you have to make a sudden stop the kayak could break free and go flying forward off the trailer, maybe go at a angle to your lower rail better to be safe.There have been cases of this, even from kayak raks on cars and trucks.
thank you .Kayaking looks like it would be fun . i am tickled to see you tackle so many different skill sets . rock on little miss
; ) Thanks Walter.
Your $475 v $1000 and I'm sure yours is not only better quality but it *is* exactly what you want. Just Awesome!
Yep! That's the most powerful thing about building.....you can make it fit your needs exactly.
April you could have eliminated all those bolts going through wood floor with a metal band welded to both sides to hold them down....nice job! If you get into a lot of metal workings you should buy an Ironworker
Excellent boat trailer!
Didn't know you were a welder as well! Great work, you designed an awesome kayak trailer. It will serve you well for years to come! Really liked this how to vid. For me being a Boy Scout leader for many years and going on numerous Troop yak floats using a Camp trailer very similar to your design. I will say you addressed issues up front that we confronted and repaired numerous times for good support on the uprights. I always hated the eyes they used on that camp trailer for tie down straps(in the way loading and unloading). Drilling your holes under the cross bars will work much more efficiently and safely as well! Enjoyed and thank you!
I'm glad to hear your input! People keep suggesting the eyelet hooks and I keep saying they would have been in the way. : ) Good to know you liked the video.
Awesome job! You could always double the strap back to the the other side instead of cutting or buying new ones. That's pretty much how all surfboards are strapped to roof racks, it helps add friction, sort of like a chinese finger trap.
April your welds are looking wonderful. Keep up the good work
What type or style of welding is that? Looks quick and easy
Wow that came out clean, nice job.
Travel tip: When strapping down your kayaks, put a twist in the flat straps to keep them from flapping and damaging your kayaks. ESPECIALLY if they are on your roof... the sound is annoying! But more so to keep the straps from cutting into your kayak
DAMN RIGHT IT'S AWESOME...NICE JOB APRIL!!! I'm not a welder but those welds look great...nice consistent beads...much better than what I could do.
Hello April...I'm a brazilian guy...and i see all yours videos. great stuff always!!
see you on next video!
tks!
Leonardo
Very nice!
I like the slight overkill on the gussets!
Solid build!
Rather it be overkill than under ;)
Overkill is underrated- The A Team
Great job, well done
Lotsa success with the new trailer
I knew I was going to have a good day when I had April and Laura in my notifications.
Man, is that nice! I just bought a 7x12 utility trailer and I'm looking to add something like this for my kayaks. I'd be looking for to do something that's removal so I can then use the trailer for my side x side. Some great ideas you gave me! Subscribed....
I assume that you didn't run into any grounding issues with the trailer, because of all the additional metal that was added. I ended up having to run separate ground wires to each light because I haven't welded the frame yet. Great video, keep up the good work.
Impressive. Nice job, easy instructions.
This way you can carry kayaks with ease. That's excellent.
Great project, when it comes to the deck boards weathering you can buy the green wood protection product to increase the lifespan of the deck. I believe it's called copper II wood preservative made by armoral.
I almost decided to build my own trailer (in fact, this very same one from Harbor Freight), but I don't have all the tools to weld and cut, so I went ahead and bought something from a dealer- it cost me $1980 for a 5'x10' with wood flooring and a removable gate. After this, I purchased a Haul Master Universal Truck Rack (800 lbs capacity) for about $279, built it, and installed it on the trailer. My next step was to purchase the Field & Stream 5-in-1 kayak carrier for $150 and attach it to the truck rack. I'm still working out the final details on 2 more modifications to the kayak trailer set-up, but my end cost as of right now is approximately $2400. So, I spent about $2k more than you did. I put in about 4 hours of my time for the truck rack build and install. How much time did you spend building the whole thing (from the HF trailer kit to the mods and paint)? I'm just curious.
That was badass. Congrats on such an awesome outcome!
That's a new idea for those HFT trailers, and your welding skills have much improved. It looks good, Though I'm a little surprised you didn't beef up the finders, knowing full you will (at sometime) accidentally step on them. Especially when your on a grade(incline) and the trailer height is a little more than you. That was a problem I've had with skiff (tiny fishing boat) trailers.
You have mad skills April. thanks for sharing!
Great build, thanks for the idea ,now I'll build mine ,
You are quite handy
Good job with the design and vertical welds.
There's plenty of uses for such a trailer. Lumber, pipes, Christmas trees, other long things.
Yep that's true, you could use it for a variety of things.
nice project. I made one out of the same trailer 4 months ago! mine is used for carrying kayaks but also as a trailer. I have higher sides. Good luck and happy paddling.
best video that shows all the details, thanks a lot!
April this is Mike in Waco Texas I watch your stuff all the time I noticed on your kayak trailer you used a Harbor Freight trailer just a little hint that we have found I'm in the process of building a teardrop camper on my Harbor Freight trailer that I've had for years and mine is one of those that folds up like yours but we have noticed where the pull pins are to fold the tongue up it causes the trailer to do a lot of bouncing and a lot of rattling noises so you may want to pull them pins and needed well that together or put bolts in there so you can secure it tighter because the bouncing on it could cause your kayaks to bounce too much around our stuff on the trailer and bounce off the trailer itself just a little hint that we have learned in the past thank you for all your videos I enjoy watching them I look forward to watching them almost every Sunday night on UA-cam
Turns out Mike is not your only fan in Waco. I also live in the Waco area and have learned a lot from watching your videos. They are extremely well done. Heck, I even watch the ones that I have no real interest in building just because I learn so much and they are enjoyable. Around here, Chip and Joanne are better known but they don't do the work themselves and the quality of their projects is no where near what you build. They are all show and very little substance. You, on the other hand, provide real, down-to-earth advice, techniques, and ideas, while still making it very entertaining. My only problem is that, as a 67 year-old guy that has been building stuff most of my life, I had to accept that I could learn so much from a young woman. Eyes and mind now officially open in Waco. Thanks!