Glad to see such a welcoming community around 3D Resin Printing. It's definitely what got me into the hobby. You say "these settings would not work for a large scale model" but why not? Why not export the model once it's supported, re-import it, scale it up for transform and see what you get. I think the end result would be pretty surprising (although hollowing and drainage would be necessary)
I love how the 3D printing community is so damn wholesome. Greg's settings are amazing and I'm eternally grateful that he's doing the pre-supports for Artisan Guild. Resin printing is getting easier and easier thanks to creators like you, Greg, and many others.
@@UncleJessy So nice of UA-cam to include the emote ( 🤘 ) of the damaged hand that you did on that King Leoric when you pulled two of his fingers off..
Exactly! This is the course of cheap resins. They are like PLA when it comes to temperature. So, if you need a functional part such resins are no good! The TG is tooo low. But you validly made your point. Soften the supports under the hot water! Thumbs up!
@@dodobarbar If the resin is a lot more heat tolerant, turn to microwaved water. I think with the support tip ends at around 50C they should be soft enough pull easily. But yeah I've stopped using snips now that I warm by cleaning liquids to 50C. They may fall off pulling them out of the bath. It's magical.
Water emulsify uncured resin so if you wanna avoid cloudy or deformed/warped results, you need to avoid any contact with water whatsoever until the piece has thoroughly been IPA washed and UV cured unless your resin is water washable.
Love your videos, and it's so nice to see members of the community supporting each other rather than competing. It makes the whole hobby a better thing to be a part of. Thanks.
More time setting them up but considerably less time removing and cleaning. Sounds like a winner to me. I use the auto supports on light or medium and then go back and tweak as needed. Thanks Uncle Jessy!
Great head to head Jessy! I’ve been using Greg’s settings with a ton of success on an Elegoo Mars. I’m going to agree with others and say you only need to add two more things. Checking for islands w/Photon Validator and soaking in *Hot Water* prior to support removal. You will be pulling complex support systems off with one hand wondering where this has been your whole life! And I bet you’ll be surprised at how many 10’s or 100’s of small 1-5 pixel islands you missed. Photon File Validator hunts them down with ease.
As someone who hasn't got a 3d printer yet, but is trying to get a much knowledge for when I do get one. Videos like these are great, I watched 3d printing Pros video and thought it was way too much work than it was worth. Now I understand better that it's actually preferable to do his way, especially if I'll be printing multiple copies of the same miniature/model/part.
You can adjust your auto support settings to actually so the same style of supporting. I use it on my minis and let them soak in alcohol for a few minutes to a couple hours. After they soften a bit the supports fall off and the minis reatain a bit of flex to prevent damage and they retain paint really well
For halot users and newbies: If you have a halot one plus Initial exposure 22 sec, exposure 1.9 sec, lift 7mm, bottom layer 3, light off delay 2 sec. Also if you ever have a problem with failures do to prints sticking to the fep. Use 3-in-1 silicone lubricant spray. Give it a light sprits on the fep use a microfiber cloth to rub it around and cover the whole fep. Then pour resin in. This will prevent prints from clinging to fep.
I happened to watch his video the other day but hadn't been able to try them yet. This shows a good reason to try them. The skate is so useful to remove print.
I have been using his supports for a while now and I found that if you have issues with the light supports you can leave the contact area and depth the same and beef up the rest of the support for flawless functionality. But it’s not just his settings. He does a great job of teaching you chitubox and really how to place the supports.
I use 3DPP's technique's for printing D&D minis, and I literally don't even use pliers or clippers for them. I use needle nose tweezers, and I do absolutely no sanding or cleaning up afterwards, because I simply do not need to. Highly recommend all his videos.
Way to give respect to 3d printing pro. The guy is so obsessive he's the best. Love it. By the way you were wearing my shirt a bit ago and now you have my chair. Getting a little weird. Lol. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the video. I spent a lot time for setting manual support in the past, but at moment, the light auto-supports from Chitubox are so good, that I use this and set only some additional supports, if realy necessar. I printet many 1:32 miniatures with this and had never problems.
His support settings are awesome. Been using them for months. However, in my opinion at least, his bias against auto-supports is nonsense. Particularly if you use Prusa-Slicer, autosupports are great. Apply his settings for thinner supports, then auto-generate them and, as you previously did, clean up and manually add or remove as neccessary. Why spend an hour re-doing what software already does just fine?? These programs have gotten better with every release, and autosupports are a godsend. Plus as others have said, a little extra heat helps even more with removal, I use a hair dryer to warm the model/supports up after washing. I'd love to see you do a V3 of this test using his settings but following your own "autosupports + manual tweaking" workflow. That will give you the best of both worlds.
i've been using 3dprinting pros settings for a few months and they are way more time in set up but way better for speed of clean up. I let my prints sit in IPA for a couple of hours and the supports just easily peel off.
I love his support settings and have been using them since he first started his channel. I have been tweaking them according to my machine and resin, but have had great results on all of my prints.
Nice shoutout, he really does make great content. I know I would not be where I am today with resin printing without his tips, tricks, and suggestions.
I mainly use auto supports but i almost always use the smallest size. (lychee slicer) I find using a few more smaller supports is a bit better than less thicker supports. Less damage when i remove them. I also use a heat gun to soften them and they just melt off with zero effort.
Your model now looks like he is throwing some 🤟🏾. Seems appropriate. Having printed a few of Printed Obsession's xenomorph, I am all to familiar with breaking off the occasional finger or three. I've tweaked 3DPP's supports a little, but he has solid tips and I think I've only ever used heavy supports for anchoring the base and the only fails I can say I've experienced are from either missed islands or underexposure. That can be the real killer with some of the thinner supports failing, I've found. Stay safe and keep up the great content.
Have you ever tried removing supports after pouring over near boiling water on the print? I use an electric kettle to heat up water and then pour over the support connections to the prints and the supports come off super easy. Great video, keep it up.
I have been printing the pre-supported Artisan Guild miniatures - 3DPrintingPro provides the pre-supported versions - not because I want the models, but because the feeling of pulling the supports off is satisfying. (I mean, I don’t really have a need for an army of Oni orcs... yet.)
I personally use a raft and then set my supports to .7mm diameter both middle and top and just autogenerate in chitubox and that works pretty well for me, I mostly use my resin printer for miniatures so take that with a grain of salt since I don’t really know how that may work with heavier prints. (Mars pro 2)
This video raises so many questions.... Like how are you keeping the hair so stylish under quarantine conditions??? I've got the total Bob Ross going about now... Secondly- I'd like to see how these adapt to the heavier settings we use on the Phenom for MONGO prints!!!
bwahaha I have been self grooming for a few years now. Maybe only once or twice a year to get a real hair cut. Just clippers and the mirror. YEP! Already taking a look at big boy supports with some tweaks from Dr Pro
Really like your videos very informative I’m a newbie to 3D printing I’ve got a anycubic photon and learning the right supports and orientation to stop getting a failed print is definitely a learning curve, really like the hands on demos you do it’s helped me a lot. Thank you 🤘
All these ideas and examples are so helpful, thanks for bringing all the information to all us, it has definitely helped my Resin printing ! keep up the great work Sir.
Another great video. I've been doing what you do. Auto supports and then I go in with some of 3D Printing Pro settings adding and removing manually as needed. I'm slowly dialing back the density and amout to see just how few supports I need. I've been printing on my Transform non stop for 7 days now and have run through 8 bottles of the Siyara Tech Fast, based in your recommendation. As others say the hot water makes my medium to lite supports basicly fall off.
I usually dunk my prints in hot water before curing , allows me to snap off the supports without damaging the model ( it makes the resin a lot softer and more likely to co-operate ) never lost a finger again
I like my supports to peel away when I'm done so I currently use .4mm contact diameter .2mm contact depth 4-6mm spacing and angles all the way up to 90 so it supports everything
This right here is why there needs to be a Top Down DLP printer coming out, even at $1-2,000 it would be worth it due to the reduction and hassle of failed prints. The problem is no one wants to have 4 liters of resin in a tank.... However I have lost $100s in failed prints due to sticking to the film or being skewed due to the pressures exerted on more solid style prints.
If you are looking into a new macro lens, check out Sigma's 105mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM macro. I've been using it for a few years and its great quality and much cheaper than other similar lenses.
I'm professional photographer. Instead of a macro lens, buy a macro adapter set for your camera. They are cheaper and should give you the results you want.
Thanks Jessy (so want to type the other name, LOL) Good info as well as justified some of my observations on supports. Your support setups got me started with success and then have been tuning as I go based on my results. His insight just highlighted some areas that I was missing. I am probably going to contact him on a manufacturing side supports that I am moving into based on a couple clients request after seeing a CNC version of parts verses a Resin 3D printed part. :) keep it coming on the videos
If you want them to fall off even easier..I run my sink as hot as it can go, and run them under for about 30 seconds. The supports just fall off at that point.
Doesnt that make the print soft as well? I mean the water doesnt know what to loosen. If you had fingers the size of the supports.... I havent tried it myself, just curious
Wow I'm having issues similar to what you showed in the picture and Phrozen just told me to replace the LCD. I'm going to have to check my firmware first.
You need to use hot water. I use a water boiler and the supports come off even better. I am using his supports for a couple month now and whenever i see supports like yours i feel like ........if they would only know how easy it could be!
I've used 3d printing pros support settings before and I've gotten failed prints because the layers have shifted for being too weak. I prefer your settings since it's thicker.
Normally no, but since I like to show the print cleaned on the buildplate I will. In general It should be okay since almost everhthjng is metal. Mean green for 15-20 mins in the sonic cleaner
Personally I would have removed the base with meshmixer and print that as a separate part. The mini should be angled less then 10 degrees so most of the damage is on the bottom.
Putting in the time is worth it to me. A poorly supported model can result is a poor print. Auto supports may do the bare minimum to technically cover the vital areas but not properly support it or have a back up in case a support fails.
His settings work great with the larger prints as well. Make sure you use a printer that has the LED array. You need more thorough curing for thinner, stronger supports.
This is why I have been so afraid to assemble my Resin Printer. My FDM printers really need no other work than to let simplify3d do whatever it wants. I guess that is not very fair since I don't print pretty things like you do. Resin printers seem so much trouble.
Not using warm water to remove supports? They come off even cleaner & easier. It's a tip straight from 3D printing pro. Edit: I should have read the comments first. I see someone else already mentioned this. Thanks for the video.
i really enjoy your videos. i got my first elegoo mars 3 recently. Do you have a tutorial on cleaning up the model after its printed? when i remove the supports i get this pointy ends on the model like yours XD. What do you use to 'sand' these?
After scraping my first build plate trying to pry stuff off, everything gets skates at the bottom. That way I can get under and lift off the plate without ever touching it.
Thanks, that was really informative. Have you tried running the two files through photon validator to see if you got all the islands on your manual support setup?
Been watching your videos and 3dPrintingPro's videos for a long time wife finally got me the elegoo mars, and besides the Rook Chess piece test I've had zero prints that havent failed on me (so 1 good out of 11) and with these settings I'm still getting fails...I'm getting upset I know its a great printer but supports are kicking my ass - either the model will be supported and half the arm is missing with supports showing on the print but nothing attached to it, or just not developing on the build plate and staying on the FEP screen. I'm about to give up. Supports are hard :(
@Uncle Jessy No surprise there. you are using way too thick support pillars all over your 3Dprints. But in your defense... the big parts you usually print require stronger supports after all. But for miniatures, even 3DPrinting Pro does use too thick supports very often. Although, what you do correctly is to place the "contact ball" wheres 3DPP usually doesn't use contact balls. Why is this OK? Well, with the balls you remain with an additional half-ball material you can easily send off, but 3DPP's models are often chipped. BUT... the danger to use contact spheres is that the cone going from the support to the sphere is too thin once it connects to the sphere. So, very often the support snaps off during the build process because of this. Bottom line, use sphere contact but check the cone. And of course, use all three sizes for your support and put them wisely!
@Charlie Vetsworth Hi Charlie. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. I'm not against big support pillars. It basically all depends on the model you're printing. I wanted to emphasize that for fine/small detail you need probably more of the finest support and not less but stronger support. Jessy is often using too thick pillars wheres some time thinner and more dens support would be beneficial to the post-processing. It is always better to use more slender pillars that just a few fat ones. Sorry but that's the law of physics ;-)
Gonna need to try it myself. Questions on your print and after care process. Do you go print, wash, remove supports, then UV cure? Or is the order different?
Just started watching 3DPrintingPro yesterday for opinions on the Sonic Mini, curious if you would recommend it over the Mars at this point? Maybe a good Vs. Video
I'm trying to get supports that are strong enough and contact enough to not have failed prints , but leaves little to no surface blemishes after removing if possible
I have a Creality LD002R....on my second print using Elegoo Red resin I had gummy spots on my release sheet....gummed up resin....donyou know what may jave caused that and is there a way to get that off without damaging the release film? Thanks!!
Hey Jess what is the best 200$ printer for dnd minis user friendly u think if u could do a little link would be great really enjoy your vids I bought a 2 hand pla printer and my printer won't work it's a davinchi mini pro and it keeps comming out the feeding tube and in rolling from the real so I think I got had for 200$but hey u live and learn
Hey Jessy can i ask ehat was thw problem of the display and how the update fixed it i have the same lines on ky m3 max and constantly my supports fail only when i use hard it print something
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MU0Cq_bjhy4/mqdefault.jpg)
Subscribe to 3DPrintingPro & checkout his amazing support settings ➜
ua-cam.com/video/AIFRpG5V5vQ/v-deo.html
www.patreon.com/3dprintingpro
Glad to see such a welcoming community around 3D Resin Printing. It's definitely what got me into the hobby.
You say "these settings would not work for a large scale model" but why not? Why not export the model once it's supported, re-import it, scale it up for transform and see what you get. I think the end result would be pretty surprising (although hollowing and drainage would be necessary)
I use these supports and I just put the model in hot water, the supports just fall off.
I love how the 3D printing community is so damn wholesome. Greg's settings are amazing and I'm eternally grateful that he's doing the pre-supports for Artisan Guild. Resin printing is getting easier and easier thanks to creators like you, Greg, and many others.
🤘🤘
@@UncleJessy So nice of UA-cam to include the emote ( 🤘 ) of the damaged hand that you did on that King Leoric when you pulled two of his fingers off..
3D Printing Pro is the master of supports.
Tip: after the IPA wash. Run the supports under hot water for 15 to 20 seconds and you will see how easy they pop off. Even with heavy supports.
I always put my print in hot water (not boiling) and it's just come off easy by hand i'm not using clipper
Exactly! This is the course of cheap resins. They are like PLA when it comes to temperature. So, if you need a functional part such resins are no good! The TG is tooo low. But you validly made your point. Soften the supports under the hot water! Thumbs up!
@@dodobarbar If the resin is a lot more heat tolerant, turn to microwaved water. I think with the support tip ends at around 50C they should be soft enough pull easily.
But yeah I've stopped using snips now that I warm by cleaning liquids to 50C. They may fall off pulling them out of the bath. It's magical.
I use a blow dryer myself. Works about the same i think :)
Water emulsify uncured resin so if you wanna avoid cloudy or deformed/warped results, you need to avoid any contact with water whatsoever until the piece has thoroughly been IPA washed and UV cured unless your resin is water washable.
Pay attention people.
This is one of the most important vids you can watch for 3D resin printing.
Sick work as always Unkah J.
Thanks mate!
Love your videos, and it's so nice to see members of the community supporting each other rather than competing. It makes the whole hobby a better thing to be a part of. Thanks.
3dprintingpro really deserves recognition, it is the channel I go to whenever I have any doubts.
Amazing content that’s for sure!
classy move referencing back to his supports by sending people to his channel! You're one of the good ones Uncle Jessy
More time setting them up but considerably less time removing and cleaning. Sounds like a winner to me. I use the auto supports on light or medium and then go back and tweak as needed. Thanks Uncle Jessy!
Great head to head Jessy! I’ve been using Greg’s settings with a ton of success on an Elegoo Mars. I’m going to agree with others and say you only need to add two more things. Checking for islands w/Photon Validator and soaking in *Hot Water* prior to support removal. You will be pulling complex support systems off with one hand wondering where this has been your whole life! And I bet you’ll be surprised at how many 10’s or 100’s of small 1-5 pixel islands you missed. Photon File Validator hunts them down with ease.
As someone who hasn't got a 3d printer yet, but is trying to get a much knowledge for when I do get one. Videos like these are great, I watched 3d printing Pros video and thought it was way too much work than it was worth.
Now I understand better that it's actually preferable to do his way, especially if I'll be printing multiple copies of the same miniature/model/part.
Greg is the man! Great video comparison, Jessy !
Danny, Jesse and Greg you guys rock keep up the good work 👍😁👍 an awesome positive community you guys have produced in Printing thanks heaps!!
You can adjust your auto support settings to actually so the same style of supporting. I use it on my minis and let them soak in alcohol for a few minutes to a couple hours. After they soften a bit the supports fall off and the minis reatain a bit of flex to prevent damage and they retain paint really well
For halot users and newbies:
If you have a halot one plus
Initial exposure 22 sec, exposure 1.9 sec, lift 7mm, bottom layer 3, light off delay 2 sec.
Also if you ever have a problem with failures do to prints sticking to the fep. Use 3-in-1 silicone lubricant spray. Give it a light sprits on the fep use a microfiber cloth to rub it around and cover the whole fep. Then pour resin in. This will prevent prints from clinging to fep.
Thank you for the feature UJ! These support settings look amazing man. 3DprintingPro is a magician.
The man the myth the 3D modeling legend! Another badass file man!
I happened to watch his video the other day but hadn't been able to try them yet. This shows a good reason to try them. The skate is so useful to remove print.
Oh man they are really dang great.
I have been using his supports for a while now and I found that if you have issues with the light supports you can leave the contact area and depth the same and beef up the rest of the support for flawless functionality. But it’s not just his settings. He does a great job of teaching you chitubox and really how to place the supports.
I use 3DPP's technique's for printing D&D minis, and I literally don't even use pliers or clippers for them. I use needle nose tweezers, and I do absolutely no sanding or cleaning up afterwards, because I simply do not need to. Highly recommend all his videos.
Way to give respect to 3d printing pro. The guy is so obsessive he's the best. Love it. By the way you were wearing my shirt a bit ago and now you have my chair. Getting a little weird. Lol. Keep up the great work.
Haha thanks. That chair was the best investment I’ve made in a while
@@UncleJessy ditto. My GF was so mad at me when I told her how much it cost. Then she sat in it. She's not mad anymore... True story.
Thanks for the video. I spent a lot time for setting manual support in the past, but at moment, the light auto-supports from Chitubox are so good, that I use this and set only some additional supports, if realy necessar. I printet many 1:32 miniatures with this and had never problems.
Hmmm looks like I need to look into some 3D Printable cable management stuff for my desk 😬🤘
"Not gonna share the settings" I immediately closed the video and watched the guy you're parroting
You have the best personality for videos! I’m a big fan
His support settings are awesome. Been using them for months.
However, in my opinion at least, his bias against auto-supports is nonsense.
Particularly if you use Prusa-Slicer, autosupports are great. Apply his settings for thinner supports, then auto-generate them and, as you previously did, clean up and manually add or remove as neccessary.
Why spend an hour re-doing what software already does just fine?? These programs have gotten better with every release, and autosupports are a godsend.
Plus as others have said, a little extra heat helps even more with removal, I use a hair dryer to warm the model/supports up after washing.
I'd love to see you do a V3 of this test using his settings but following your own "autosupports + manual tweaking" workflow. That will give you the best of both worlds.
Yeah I’m guessing it all comes down to personal preference. Thanks for checking out the vidya
i've been using 3dprinting pros settings for a few months and they are way more time in set up but way better for speed of clean up. I let my prints sit in IPA for a couple of hours and the supports just easily peel off.
3Dprinting pro is a master at supports...... for minis. I have not been successful using his for larger size prints.
I love his support settings and have been using them since he first started his channel. I have been tweaking them according to my machine and resin, but have had great results on all of my prints.
Nice shoutout, he really does make great content. I know I would not be where I am today with resin printing without his tips, tricks, and suggestions.
I mainly use auto supports but i almost always use the smallest size. (lychee slicer) I find using a few more smaller supports is a bit better than less thicker supports. Less damage when i remove them. I also use a heat gun to soften them and they just melt off with zero effort.
Your model now looks like he is throwing some 🤟🏾. Seems appropriate. Having printed a few of Printed Obsession's xenomorph, I am all to familiar with breaking off the occasional finger or three. I've tweaked 3DPP's supports a little, but he has solid tips and I think I've only ever used heavy supports for anchoring the base and the only fails I can say I've experienced are from either missed islands or underexposure. That can be the real killer with some of the thinner supports failing, I've found. Stay safe and keep up the great content.
Have you ever tried removing supports after pouring over near boiling water on the print? I use an electric kettle to heat up water and then pour over the support connections to the prints and the supports come off super easy. Great video, keep it up.
Yep! I should have mentioned that. Amazing how they just pop right off
I have been printing the pre-supported Artisan Guild miniatures - 3DPrintingPro provides the pre-supported versions - not because I want the models, but because the feeling of pulling the supports off is satisfying. (I mean, I don’t really have a need for an army of Oni orcs... yet.)
I personally use a raft and then set my supports to .7mm diameter both middle and top and just autogenerate in chitubox and that works pretty well for me, I mostly use my resin printer for miniatures so take that with a grain of salt since I don’t really know how that may work with heavier prints. (Mars pro 2)
This video raises so many questions.... Like how are you keeping the hair so stylish under quarantine conditions??? I've got the total Bob Ross going about now...
Secondly- I'd like to see how these adapt to the heavier settings we use on the Phenom for MONGO prints!!!
bwahaha I have been self grooming for a few years now. Maybe only once or twice a year to get a real hair cut. Just clippers and the mirror.
YEP! Already taking a look at big boy supports with some tweaks from Dr Pro
Really like your videos very informative I’m a newbie to 3D printing I’ve got a anycubic photon and learning the right supports and orientation to stop getting a failed print is definitely a learning curve, really like the hands on demos you do it’s helped me a lot. Thank you 🤘
Glad they have helped. Yeah lots to learn but amazing stuff in the end with the right settings. All about that fine tuning
All these ideas and examples are so helpful, thanks for bringing all the information to all us, it has definitely helped my Resin printing ! keep up the great work Sir.
Funny to see this now as I'm currently setting up supports AND I'll be printing on the Sonic Mini.
Another great video. I've been doing what you do. Auto supports and then I go in with some of 3D Printing Pro settings adding and removing manually as needed. I'm slowly dialing back the density and amout to see just how few supports I need. I've been printing on my Transform non stop for 7 days now and have run through 8 bottles of the Siyara Tech Fast, based in your recommendation. As others say the hot water makes my medium to lite supports basicly fall off.
Yeah it’s crazy how they just disconnect. Stay tuned for some more BIG stuff later this week 😬🤘
Jessy, it's awesome how you don't take any credit for the settings and send people directly to his youtube page. Thumbs up!
I usually dunk my prints in hot water before curing , allows me to snap off the supports without damaging the model ( it makes the resin a lot softer and more likely to co-operate ) never lost a finger again
Very cool attitude! Congrats Jessy!
I like my supports to peel away when I'm done so I currently use .4mm contact diameter .2mm contact depth 4-6mm spacing and angles all the way up to 90 so it supports everything
Great video Jessy, learning something new every day!
Great design, and walkthrough
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks for checking it out!
My goodness when you accidentally pulled the supports I was like : "The fingers!!" 😳😂😂
Haha yeah big time oops there
Just bought It and became a Patreon on fortismint, I’m a rookie and I want to learn more
This right here is why there needs to be a Top Down DLP printer coming out, even at $1-2,000 it would be worth it due to the reduction and hassle of failed prints. The problem is no one wants to have 4 liters of resin in a tank....
However I have lost $100s in failed prints due to sticking to the film or being skewed due to the pressures exerted on more solid style prints.
Love this video watch all yours for sure !!! This has changed me way of life so much lmao! Thanks man!!!
If you are looking into a new macro lens, check out Sigma's 105mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM macro. I've been using it for a few years and its great quality and much cheaper than other similar lenses.
I'm professional photographer. Instead of a macro lens, buy a macro adapter set for your camera. They are cheaper and should give you the results you want.
+1 to this comment
WOW and under $20 over on amazon. Totally picking one up. Thanks for the suggestion. Had no idea about these.
Thanks Jessy (so want to type the other name, LOL) Good info as well as justified some of my observations on supports. Your support setups got me started with success and then have been tuning as I go based on my results. His insight just highlighted some areas that I was missing. I am probably going to contact him on a manufacturing side supports that I am moving into based on a couple clients request after seeing a CNC version of parts verses a Resin 3D printed part. :) keep it coming on the videos
I always suspected that Leoric was into death metal🤘
(you can tell by his wardrobe)
his fingers breaking off is fine he is just a rocker now🤟
Back when I was using Moai with Asura3d, the default support setting had 5% Density on supports and they were thicker.
I was all "oh no!" when the supports came off easy around the hand then, I'm not even joking, my jaw dropped when the fingers were fine.
If you want them to fall off even easier..I run my sink as hot as it can go, and run them under for about 30 seconds. The supports just fall off at that point.
110% this!
Doesnt that make the print soft as well? I mean the water doesnt know what to loosen. If you had fingers the size of the supports.... I havent tried it myself, just curious
@@EastwoodFabrication In some aspects yes. Even on very small things though I don't notice any side effects from doing it this way
Eastwood Fab it will but as soon as you cure the print it will harden right up
Wow I'm having issues similar to what you showed in the picture and Phrozen just told me to replace the LCD. I'm going to have to check my firmware first.
Great videos mate, thank you for sharing and enlightening :)
love your chair! :)
Gwarsh Mickey, you sure are a great pal! 14:06
Really great prints Uncle Jessy maybe you should ask FAB365 to assist with this issue of supports though?
You need to use hot water. I use a water boiler and the supports come off even better. I am using his supports for a couple month now and whenever i see supports like yours i feel like ........if they would only know how easy it could be!
"See how these settings compare to my incredibly bad settings I normally use."
You need to do some Cablemanagement man!
I've used 3d printing pros support settings before and I've gotten failed prints because the layers have shifted for being too weak. I prefer your settings since it's thicker.
Do you put the plate and prints in the ultrasonic cleaning all together? Are you using Mean Green instead of IPA?
Normally no, but since I like to show the print cleaned on the buildplate I will. In general It should be okay since almost everhthjng is metal. Mean green for 15-20 mins in the sonic cleaner
@@UncleJessy Thanks! Great video!
Personally I would have removed the base with meshmixer and print that as a separate part. The mini should be angled less then 10 degrees so most of the damage is on the bottom.
What if the mini is hunched forward?
Each mini needs its own angle.
Holy poop in a bucket Batman, that is crazy
As a follow up, does the time spent supporting the model, offset the post processing necessary.
Putting in the time is worth it to me. A poorly supported model can result is a poor print. Auto supports may do the bare minimum to technically cover the vital areas but not properly support it or have a back up in case a support fails.
His settings work great with the larger prints as well. Make sure you use a printer that has the LED array. You need more thorough curing for thinner, stronger supports.
Next you have to try 3dprinting pros support removal with hot water how he recommends!
The supports just melt off with a touch
He shows it in a video on his channel. He uses toothbrush with IPA, briefly, then water rinse and cure.
ua-cam.com/video/ZBPigALzlGc/v-deo.html
11:30 dude's ready for a Slayer concert
This is why I have been so afraid to assemble my Resin Printer. My FDM printers really need no other work than to let simplify3d do whatever it wants. I guess that is not very fair since I don't print pretty things like you do. Resin printers seem so much trouble.
You shouldn't be afraid, everyone makes mistakes in the beginning.
Your print is super heavy metal
after you get the macro lense do a vid on tweaking resin/setting to get max detail on miniatures
Not using warm water to remove supports? They come off even cleaner & easier. It's a tip straight from 3D printing pro.
Edit: I should have read the comments first. I see someone else already mentioned this. Thanks for the video.
Looks like my prints after his suggestions
How would you alter these settings to print something on the Phenom?
i really enjoy your videos. i got my first elegoo mars 3 recently. Do you have a tutorial on cleaning up the model after its printed? when i remove the supports i get this pointy ends on the model like yours XD. What do you use to 'sand' these?
After scraping my first build plate trying to pry stuff off, everything gets skates at the bottom. That way I can get under and lift off the plate without ever touching it.
Yeah that might be the new norm for me moving forward
Thanks, that was really informative. Have you tried running the two files through photon validator to see if you got all the islands on your manual support setup?
I have not! Never even used the photon validated. Heard whispers of it 😬
Been watching your videos and 3dPrintingPro's videos for a long time wife finally got me the elegoo mars, and besides the Rook Chess piece test I've had zero prints that havent failed on me (so 1 good out of 11) and with these settings I'm still getting fails...I'm getting upset I know its a great printer but supports are kicking my ass - either the model will be supported and half the arm is missing with supports showing on the print but nothing attached to it, or just not developing on the build plate and staying on the FEP screen. I'm about to give up. Supports are hard :(
@Uncle Jessy No surprise there. you are using way too thick support pillars all over your 3Dprints. But in your defense... the big parts you usually print require stronger supports after all. But for miniatures, even 3DPrinting Pro does use too thick supports very often. Although, what you do correctly is to place the "contact ball" wheres 3DPP usually doesn't use contact balls. Why is this OK? Well, with the balls you remain with an additional half-ball material you can easily send off, but 3DPP's models are often chipped. BUT... the danger to use contact spheres is that the cone going from the support to the sphere is too thin once it connects to the sphere. So, very often the support snaps off during the build process because of this.
Bottom line, use sphere contact but check the cone. And of course, use all three sizes for your support and put them wisely!
@Charlie Vetsworth Hi Charlie. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. I'm not against big support pillars. It basically all depends on the model you're printing. I wanted to emphasize that for fine/small detail you need probably more of the finest support and not less but stronger support. Jessy is often using too thick pillars wheres some time thinner and more dens support would be beneficial to the post-processing.
It is always better to use more slender pillars that just a few fat ones. Sorry but that's the law of physics ;-)
Not tilting back so far would eliminate the support damage to the cape.
Gonna need to try it myself. Questions on your print and after care process. Do you go print, wash, remove supports, then UV cure? Or is the order different?
11:30 Let's just say he's a Spider-Man fan :D
Well done Sir!
thwip
A few years after I start printing coming back to this video I must admit: these miniature looks insanely oversupported 😂
HOLY crap I can't believe you didnt pop the fingers off on that second mini! Goodness. My heart skipped when it all just pop off
Config for ChituBox import:
3DPrintingPro
pastebin.com/hVQ7Cn2q
Uncle Jessy
pastebin.com/GRvRFHHb
I'll be watching 3DprintingPro....does this strategy also apply to busts?
Do you use a z height to raise the model off the plate?
What resin are you using here mate? it looks so soft and durably
11:35 the dude is giving devil horns. Probably a metal-head.
🤘🤘🤘
Just started watching 3DPrintingPro yesterday for opinions on the Sonic Mini, curious if you would recommend it over the Mars at this point? Maybe a good Vs. Video
Oh I like that idea! Both print great to be honest. And I looooove my mini and my mars. Would be a tough call
Hey, could you show print settings too? Layer height etc
I'm trying to get supports that are strong enough and contact enough to not have failed prints , but leaves little to no surface blemishes after removing if possible
11:24 I was listening in the background and thought I'd somehow switched to a Mickey Mouse short.
I have a Creality LD002R....on my second print using Elegoo Red resin I had gummy spots on my release sheet....gummed up resin....donyou know what may jave caused that and is there a way to get that off without damaging the release film? Thanks!!
Hey Jess what is the best 200$ printer for dnd minis user friendly u think if u could do a little link would be great really enjoy your vids I bought a 2 hand pla printer and my printer won't work it's a davinchi mini pro and it keeps comming out the feeding tube and in rolling from the real so I think I got had for 200$but hey u live and learn
Hey Jessy can i ask ehat was thw problem of the display and how the update fixed it i have the same lines on ky m3 max and constantly my supports fail only when i use hard it print something