I wanted to give you a huge thank you!. I have watched some other videos on supports since i started and I have had so many issues printing from nothing printing to half of what i put on the plate printing, So many failures and since watching this and following it, for the first time I have had 100% a few times in a row now. I probably just jinxed myself but I could not be more excited. I have been trying to print something with a lot of parts and it has been taking forever because of the failures and now its all coming out perfect. Thank you so very much!
I copied your settings and had a file that would not print properly auto supported. It took some tweaking and 2 tries, but these settings are great. I though the file was 'unprintable' but it looks great! thanks a lot :)
❤thanks a lot for this video! I've been typing for myself for three years now, but getting the right settings and supports is just some kind of battle! You may want to mention in your videos about the optimal lift speed to keep print rejects of large models to a minimum. the print time does not matter.
Right. The platform touch shape refers to the tapered bit between the pillar of the support and the actual contact shape where the support contacts the model. I didn't understand that at all until you went through it.
Is there a flexible resin available,like a rubberized resin? I wanna start making detailed copies of discontinued g shock watch bezels and straps so I can continue to enjoy wearing them.
Hello, your prints are perfect, I make a lot of very small scale prints in 1/64 scale, I would have some tips for supporting very very small parts, thank you.
Thats interesting. The leg supports seem very thin. I imagine in my case I would see some skew lines... The worst part in printing is that you have to wait for the print done till you can really validate correctness of the supports :P
Hey Dennis. Just wondering. Personally, I don’t really care what supports people use, I can measure my stuff, but what I would like to know what are your print settings. Printer/print speed, lift speed, distances etc…all those technical parameters. Thank you in advance!
Is it possible to add extra support settings to Chitubox free? I can customise the light/medium/heavy but it doesn't look like I can create any extra support profiles
@@wangdennys You save your profile and export your settings before importing another profile. Its really easy to change settings, importing another profile messes nothing up at all.
Brilliant Denny I'm trying all your advice and using your prints from your cults to set my printers up I jut got my m5s anycubic 20 minutes ago I'm about to open it up I'll use all the great Info you have! This was abit confusing on the support names but loved the way that leg printed! I have a model trailer for a ww2 US DUKW I am trying to print I'm just wondering of you had any advice on what angle? I printed a first test of it at 45° but it's printed on the mono 2 with large quite deep layer lines at 50um layer hight, I know this is going to be larger step lines anyway it was a test print but my saturn 2 8k was busy at time of printing or wouldn't have normally used this printer for something of this 1.35 scale size anyway the trailer it is hollow lid separate but like a bath tub! What way would you suggest for printing this? If you want to see a photo it is the WW2 US amphibious Trailer the tub only the chassis is separate! Many many thanks for taking time to read this and for all your help
Hello Dennys, after I had to change my FEP early this year I started getting a lot of failures due to the supports, so I started over supporting which fixed the problem but has caused a lot of damage to the models. Important to mention I always do auto supports. Do you think manual support is the answer?
With the leg... How did you know that the knee didn't need supporting? I would have thought that the knee would have created a lot of pulling on the foot area.
I watch and admire your work. But here is a question, in the video, you say that all supports have a base of 1mm. However, on your small models (tank, and others up to 3-4 cm) they seem to be thinner. What support base do you use when printing small models?
After my third or fourth attempt at using these support settings, I give up. These support settings may work for things like 25/32mm miniatures and component based models with small parts like in the thumbnail, but for anything else these are insufficient. Additionally, Chitubox has completely changed their support options and most of their UI, and you no longer have the ability to add more than the three support sizes that are built in to the slicer. You can modify the sizes of the three settings, but you cannot add more.
support requires experience knowing where to add extra, where to keep minimum. simply copy my support setting will not work without such experience. analyze your fail print and add extra support where it fail. i can print full 30x20x30cm big model just fine with 0.4mm support all round the model as anchor and 0.3mm as stability support, then use 0,2 or 0,1 for tiny non overhang details. it is all about experience.
Petition to start your next videos with "Hello everywang".
Huahahahahha wang is slang word for p*nis in some country.
That could be fun
@@wangdennys Admittedly, i only thought of that after i had already posted the comment, but it would make it even better, lol.
@@ozfunghi hopefully i dont get ban
@@wangdennys hahaha
So it begins! The most anticipated series!
I wanted to give you a huge thank you!. I have watched some other videos on supports since i started and I have had so many issues printing from nothing printing to half of what i put on the plate printing, So many failures and since watching this and following it, for the first time I have had 100% a few times in a row now. I probably just jinxed myself but I could not be more excited. I have been trying to print something with a lot of parts and it has been taking forever because of the failures and now its all coming out perfect. Thank you so very much!
You can super thank my video.
LOL
You gave me a lot to think about. Selamat malam.
Absolutely EXCELLENT video. Thank you so much for posting.
I copied your settings and had a file that would not print properly auto supported. It took some tweaking and 2 tries, but these settings are great. I though the file was 'unprintable' but it looks great! thanks a lot :)
Many thanks-this is Nobel price stuff-right on Dennys
You are an artist
I don’t even have a 3d printer but you get my subscription 😂
Thank you 🥰
❤thanks a lot for this video! I've been typing for myself for three years now, but getting the right settings and supports is just some kind of battle!
You may want to mention in your videos about the optimal lift speed to keep print rejects of large models to a minimum. the print time does not matter.
thanks for sharing. this method take more time but worthy to do in case you need a flawless print.
Future series will be how to incorporate auto and manual to save time.
Although i always prefer manual. LOL
Excellent! I am so close to getting a 3d printer. Just one more payday. And Phrozen 8K resin getting to Aus. 🙄Thanks!
Thanks for sharing! Super informative as always!
Welcome
For the next video, I'm very curious about your process of looking at the model and deciding where to place what kind of supports.
Next will be simple object like cuboid and cylinder
Thank you!
Thanks for this!
Right. The platform touch shape refers to the tapered bit between the pillar of the support and the actual contact shape where the support contacts the model. I didn't understand that at all until you went through it.
If you hover your mouse over these settings, you get a visual reference to understand what part the settings will change.
great stuff Dennys!
Thank you
What's the value of a sphere contact point? To avoid pitting when removing supports?
Thanks! I need next vídeo!!!
With the leg 🦵 over hang unsupported, would you get leverage when peeling of the fep? If it were solid not hollow 🤔
Is there a flexible resin available,like a rubberized resin? I wanna start making detailed copies of discontinued g shock watch bezels and straps so I can continue to enjoy wearing them.
Hello, your prints are perfect, I make a lot of very small scale prints in 1/64 scale, I would have some tips for supporting very very small parts, thank you.
where can i get that mini shoe 0:10
YASSSS
So for small 1/12 headsculpts would you recommend using medium or light supports?
I always use super heavy as anchor and then combine it with heavy and medium and light.
I never use only 1 size.
I've noticed on your taskbar the icon of Voxeldance Tango slicer.
How do you like it?
I havent really play with it.
So far i only tested the antialiasing function and can confirm it is good.
one question why my supports fail inside the hollow model outside are good. Bottom contact surface of support iside model is small and it cant print
Hard to say withtouy knowing more detaila like the upper and bottom tip size, etc.
Thats interesting. The leg supports seem very thin. I imagine in my case I would see some skew lines... The worst part in printing is that you have to wait for the print done till you can really validate correctness of the supports :P
Yes, it is about patient when it comes to resin printing. LOL
That leg at the end is such a goal. Very impressive. Does he mention is printer / exposure time at all in the video?
Sonic mini 8k S
Resin aqua grey 8k
Layer height 0.03
Exposure 1.2s
Hey Dennis. Just wondering. Personally, I don’t really care what supports people use, I can measure my stuff, but what I would like to know what are your print settings. Printer/print speed, lift speed, distances etc…all those technical parameters.
Thank you in advance!
Can you please show us some examples of which sized models you use 1mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm trunk diameters for in the next video?
Okay
Is it possible to add extra support settings to Chitubox free? I can customise the light/medium/heavy but it doesn't look like I can create any extra support profiles
Nope
Any way you could export the support profiles to make it a little easier to play with your settings?
Nope. Import the support config file will mess up your support setting because the default cannot be remove.
@@wangdennys That's why you export a backup of your current config first.
@@Gh0stwheeI when you load it. It will mess up the existing setting.
@@wangdennys Yes. That is why you export a backup of your setting somewhere else.
@@wangdennys You save your profile and export your settings before importing another profile. Its really easy to change settings, importing another profile messes nothing up at all.
Brilliant Denny I'm trying all your advice and using your prints from your cults to set my printers up I jut got my m5s anycubic 20 minutes ago I'm about to open it up I'll use all the great Info you have! This was abit confusing on the support names but loved the way that leg printed! I have a model trailer for a ww2 US DUKW I am trying to print I'm just wondering of you had any advice on what angle? I printed a first test of it at 45° but it's printed on the mono 2 with large quite deep layer lines at 50um layer hight, I know this is going to be larger step lines anyway it was a test print but my saturn 2 8k was busy at time of printing or wouldn't have normally used this printer for something of this 1.35 scale size anyway the trailer it is hollow lid separate but like a bath tub! What way would you suggest for printing this? If you want to see a photo it is the WW2 US amphibious Trailer the tub only the chassis is separate! Many many thanks for taking time to read this and for all your help
Hello Dennys, after I had to change my FEP early this year I started getting a lot of failures due to the supports, so I started over supporting which fixed the problem but has caused a lot of damage to the models. Important to mention I always do auto supports. Do you think manual support is the answer?
Hmmm it is hard to say without know what the object looks like
Thank for this information bomb :) I just wonder where is the MRP 2 video, is it patreon only?
Anyone know where the STL is for this Nike jordan shoe??
With the leg... How did you know that the knee didn't need supporting? I would have thought that the knee would have created a lot of pulling on the foot area.
Experience.
I been doing manual supports for 9 years.
Is that because you had a good burn in layer? @@wangdennys
do you prefer lychee or chitubox?
i can use both, each to their own advantage and disadvantage.
I watch and admire your work. But here is a question, in the video, you say that all supports have a base of 1mm. However, on your small models (tank, and others up to 3-4 cm) they seem to be thinner. What support base do you use when printing small models?
Max 1mm is enough.
I always use 0.3mm
@@wangdennys I'm sorry, I misspoke. I was asking about the thickness of the middle part of the support. "Middle diameter."
@@wwRWw well they are 1mm
So why prism?
Less polygon.
Easier to slice and less error
After my third or fourth attempt at using these support settings, I give up. These support settings may work for things like 25/32mm miniatures and component based models with small parts like in the thumbnail, but for anything else these are insufficient. Additionally, Chitubox has completely changed their support options and most of their UI, and you no longer have the ability to add more than the three support sizes that are built in to the slicer. You can modify the sizes of the three settings, but you cannot add more.
support requires experience
knowing where to add extra, where to keep minimum.
simply copy my support setting will not work without such experience.
analyze your fail print and add extra support where it fail.
i can print full 30x20x30cm big model just fine with 0.4mm support all round the model as anchor and 0.3mm as stability support, then use 0,2 or 0,1 for tiny non overhang details.
it is all about experience.