You should print a case for a Raspberry Pi 4, and then fill it with a Pi4 running the OctoPrint software, that'll do the timelapse without wasting shutter count on a full size camera, plus let you monitor the print from anywhere, and skip the lost Mini SD Cards, by having the Ender on your own network.
@@FoxTailWhipz "Hobby",..... I feel that knife to the guts, ya wanna twist it to! Woe, Woe is me!!! (dies dramatically, on camera) Now, 3D printing out of Metal with Lasers, that's fun,...
imo kinda misleading of a title, don't get me wrong this video was a nice watch. But this is just a glorified case for the lense not an actual lense built up with 3d printed parts which was what I was looking for.
I once designed and printed a custom auxiliary lens housing for my thermal camera, which was embedded in an old phone. Including various threads for focus and mounting. You learn a lot by turning your CAD models into physical prototypes. Like my first attempt was mirrored... And it took me the physical piece in my hand to notice. I also 3D printed a pinhole lens, so you don't even need glas, just a piece of metal with a pinhole and some tape. And of course, I printed various adapters. Like some you wouldn't find on eBay. D-mount to MFT is quite conal and it does work.
An absolute MUST for printing this sort of project, is making sure the Extrusion and XYZ Stepper steps-per-mm are adjusted and corrected before printing. Same goes for running the PID tune on the hot end and bed. Also, swap materials - the Nylon with Carbon Fibre (which is a complete pain in the ar,... to print) will give a much better finish, matte surfaces, so no shiny reflections from the housing. Or try one of the doped plastics, there's ones with Aluminium, gold, bronze, wood as additives, the bronze might make a really 50's looking housing, plus if you ramp up the infill, you can put more mass for better inertia of the rings, and better balance of the Arri on the shoulder, and closer match to the body colour of the camera. But!,. Don't forget to swap to a Hardened Steel Nozzle first - any plastic that has metal or glass fiber or carbon fibre etc added, Will Be Abrasive, and, Will Eat Out The Center Of The Extruder Nozzle.
@@rezjrprod The Carbon Fibre infused filament is mostly Nylon, and prints like regular Nylon filament, 280 to 300 dec C nozzle, 90 to 100 deg C bed, plus adhesive sprayed on glass for the bed (I haven't tried it on flexible magnetic beds yet). Nylon is a challenge to get to print properly, requiring zero airflow and an enclosure to stop heat escaping, which helps stop the print from lifting. On top of that, the Carbon Fibre infused filament is VERY abrasive, so at minimum you need a hardened Steel nozzle. Printers like an Ender 3 or an Aquila X2 can do the temperatures, but after loading custom firmware, as factory firmware will usually limit temperatures for safety.
Late on the response, no it doesn't change the focus throw in angle (a 270° lens would still be a 270 after the mod) but it changes in circumference, wich is a big deal for follow focus, because the speed of the ramping is determined by the number of teeth bitween far and close focus. The larger the lens, the slower the follow focus (multiplicatevely with the original focus throw angle)
Great vid man i have a version of this lens, the f2.8, seems to be the exact same size. Do the gears turn smoothly? One of the things i love about this lens is the focus ring... i wonder if there is any significant amount of friction added by doing this mod. thanks!
Hey can I ask you a question about the Canon M50? I just watched your detailed video about how to get the best image quality. My question is, have you seen the picture that the canon G7 X Mark ii takes? They look super bright and warm. My canon M50 takes extremely sharp photos and they’re not as bright and warm. Which settings can I use to make them brighter and warmer on the M50? Thanks for taking the time to read my comment.
This is cool! I am shocked that it worked with any measure of accuracy. Really impressive! Kind of makes me wonder how things will be in a few more years time as printers improve.
@@FoxTailWhipz I agree. I’m really interested in seeing what materials are in the works too. Metallic materials are slowly making their way into consumer printers now too. Someday we’ll be able to print in full metal.
@@Big.D. True, but depending on how many segments and elements inside the lens, distance and accuracy are critically important. If this is just a outer cover and not an entire rehousing then yeah, I suppose it's just a protective case. I guess I have no idea how either a redone. lol Sounds like it could get complicated if it involve moving lenses around. Maybe @FoxTailWhipz can show a video on the assembly process. Would be curious to see what is involved. haha
This isn't re-housing a cinema lens. You're just printing parts that fit over an existing housing. Big, big difference. Actual re-housed lenses use only the glass and have a much better metal housing as well as a reversed focus ring (270-360 degrees) and usually a smoother iris ring, for example. There are other differences as well, such as a PL mount.
Put it for 1 Hr in Acetone or Rubbing alcohol bowl (do not let them touch, just the vapor). You dint mention what type of plastic you used but research which chemical works best for your type. itll give a smooth reflective look instead of matte
What other 3D printed camera gear would you like to see me check out? ⬇️
i think you can print some kind rehousing for the EOS M, so it looks like a cinema camera
You should print a case for a Raspberry Pi 4, and then fill it with a Pi4 running the OctoPrint software, that'll do the timelapse without wasting shutter count on a full size camera, plus let you monitor the print from anywhere, and skip the lost Mini SD Cards, by having the Ender on your own network.
Dang bro you’re gonna make me buy a dang 3D printer now
Its such a fun hobby!
3D printing is an art form, an engineering masterpiece.
@@FoxTailWhipz "Hobby",..... I feel that knife to the guts, ya wanna twist it to! Woe, Woe is me!!! (dies dramatically, on camera)
Now, 3D printing out of Metal with Lasers, that's fun,...
imo kinda misleading of a title, don't get me wrong this video was a nice watch. But this is just a glorified case for the lense not an actual lense built up with 3d printed parts which was what I was looking for.
a guy called fraens on youtube 3D printed a jig for making lenses. does that count
I used these designs a long time ago and i would highly recommend!
there matte box is also good
I once designed and printed a custom auxiliary lens housing for my thermal camera, which was embedded in an old phone. Including various threads for focus and mounting. You learn a lot by turning your CAD models into physical prototypes. Like my first attempt was mirrored... And it took me the physical piece in my hand to notice.
I also 3D printed a pinhole lens, so you don't even need glas, just a piece of metal with a pinhole and some tape.
And of course, I printed various adapters. Like some you wouldn't find on eBay. D-mount to MFT is quite conal and it does work.
I'm seeing rhyno side handles for your M-Lite in your 3d printed future.
Dude sick. Should try that with PETG. More shock resistant/absorbant and less UV damage prone. Should have no issues printing PET on your Ender.
An absolute MUST for printing this sort of project, is making sure the Extrusion and XYZ Stepper steps-per-mm are adjusted and corrected before printing. Same goes for running the PID tune on the hot end and bed.
Also, swap materials - the Nylon with Carbon Fibre (which is a complete pain in the ar,... to print) will give a much better finish, matte surfaces, so no shiny reflections from the housing. Or try one of the doped plastics, there's ones with Aluminium, gold, bronze, wood as additives, the bronze might make a really 50's looking housing, plus if you ramp up the infill, you can put more mass for better inertia of the rings, and better balance of the Arri on the shoulder, and closer match to the body colour of the camera.
But!,. Don't forget to swap to a Hardened Steel Nozzle first - any plastic that has metal or glass fiber or carbon fibre etc added, Will Be Abrasive, and, Will Eat Out The Center Of The Extruder Nozzle.
Can you use the carbon one like regular pla same temp?
@@rezjrprod The Carbon Fibre infused filament is mostly Nylon, and prints like regular Nylon filament, 280 to 300 dec C nozzle, 90 to 100 deg C bed, plus adhesive sprayed on glass for the bed (I haven't tried it on flexible magnetic beds yet). Nylon is a challenge to get to print properly, requiring zero airflow and an enclosure to stop heat escaping, which helps stop the print from lifting.
On top of that, the Carbon Fibre infused filament is VERY abrasive, so at minimum you need a hardened Steel nozzle. Printers like an Ender 3 or an Aquila X2 can do the temperatures, but after loading custom firmware, as factory firmware will usually limit temperatures for safety.
Can't appreciate a lot, u r a gem to find in my youtube mining. Thank u for posting it.
I want : that dog, that Arri, that lens ! ;)
What filament did you use?
is possible make it with resin?
Does the larger plastic focus gear change the focus throw at all?
Slightly since it’s a larger circumference, but it’s not very noticeable.
Late on the response, no it doesn't change the focus throw in angle (a 270° lens would still be a 270 after the mod) but it changes in circumference, wich is a big deal for follow focus, because the speed of the ramping is determined by the number of teeth bitween far and close focus. The larger the lens, the slower the follow focus (multiplicatevely with the original focus throw angle)
Hi , very nice , but how do you mount this lens to Alexa???
Great vid man i have a version of this lens, the f2.8, seems to be the exact same size. Do the gears turn smoothly? One of the things i love about this lens is the focus ring... i wonder if there is any significant amount of friction added by doing this mod. thanks!
After some tinkering it fits great for me with very little to no friction!
You are the only other person I've seen who uses a YI security camera to monitor their printer..I love mine
Hey can I ask you a question about the Canon M50? I just watched your detailed video about how to get the best image quality. My question is, have you seen the picture that the canon G7 X Mark ii takes? They look super bright and warm. My canon M50 takes extremely sharp photos and they’re not as bright and warm. Which settings can I use to make them brighter and warmer on the M50? Thanks for taking the time to read my comment.
honestly just shoot raw and learn to edit. Lightroom is a great option and darktable is a viable alternative that is free.
Waooh
Review nikon D5300 pls im tryna buy it
This is cool! I am shocked that it worked with any measure of accuracy. Really impressive! Kind of makes me wonder how things will be in a few more years time as printers improve.
I cant wait to see what the future of 3D printing looks like, especially with how accessible they are getting!
@@FoxTailWhipz I agree. I’m really interested in seeing what materials are in the works too. Metallic materials are slowly making their way into consumer printers now too. Someday we’ll be able to print in full metal.
@@CNC-Time-Lapse doesn't really need an insane level of accuracy since it's basically a protective case for the lens.
@@Big.D. True, but depending on how many segments and elements inside the lens, distance and accuracy are critically important. If this is just a outer cover and not an entire rehousing then yeah, I suppose it's just a protective case. I guess I have no idea how either a redone. lol Sounds like it could get complicated if it involve moving lenses around. Maybe @FoxTailWhipz can show a video on the assembly process. Would be curious to see what is involved. haha
How much to print me a copy for my lens?
This isn't re-housing a cinema lens. You're just printing parts that fit over an existing housing. Big, big difference. Actual re-housed lenses use only the glass and have a much better metal housing as well as a reversed focus ring (270-360 degrees) and usually a smoother iris ring, for example. There are other differences as well, such as a PL mount.
Put it for 1 Hr in Acetone or Rubbing alcohol bowl (do not let them touch, just the vapor). You dint mention what type of plastic you used but research which chemical works best for your type. itll give a smooth reflective look instead of matte
LOL saying it protects your lens hen you drop it.
I hope you dont drop the ARRI
El mismísimo que tiene una arri en casa
fkn clickbait title. Its a rehouse, not a 3d printed cine lens! Gosh ....
Sell me the lens
'Promo SM' 💃