I am a professional 3D Printing Technician and I have had customers complain that their parts did not arrive with the stated accuracy of the machine from the MFG of 0.01mm, with the misunderstanding that minimum feature size is not the same as accuracy.
@@StinkPickle4000 You're right. The "you" was referring to the service provider, as opposed to the customer. My point was that it's not the customer's fault for not understanding this, but the service provider's fault.
Yes minimum feature size is the same as accuracy. You have been scammed by the chinese printer companies and now you are repeating their lies. What other industry has such nonsense?
Every 3D printing enthusiast should "like" this video, as it sums up quite a few things, that we had to spent lots of rolls of filament to realize. Thumbs Up!
1:11 "150 mm/s" is not volume per time, so you can't say "to move that much material that quickly". It's literally a distance per time. You'd need 2(!!!) more dimensions for it to be volume per time, namely line width and layer height.
North america does not have a plant for PEI and alike resins saudi and one more place is it they are not made like other resins in a reactor this is price protection and those plants are super super expensive thus our costs here! its all offshore and about 25$/lbs and up FOB the true cost is half that if we had one here using enough to pay the plant here but at 21 million start up i dont see this happening anytime soon until our demands go up to warrent this and still you then have sabic at your feet... FUN FACT SABIC IS NOT THE INNOVATOR OF PEI Genral Electric was the founder sold it to them decades ago
ISO could help your C OF A validity do you pay an up charge on your resin purchasing for the c of a for every load or just at random loads? normally 1-2cents /lbs on 78000lbs(tanker)-180000/lbs (rail car) or box or bags/lot run and date. my question is the material a blanket C of A or a running each load C of A? do you get a c of a for each load or at random?and for each it would be specific to that load only?
About accuracy, I often see people designing parts for printing the same way as if they were going to be machined from billet aluminum or tool steel, with the same tolerances. There seems to be a lack of education in the manufacturing industry around how to design specifically for printing, and how to design for inaccuracy (meaning: factoring in inherent printing inaccuracy). Maybe that's something a channel like yours can help evangelize about.
How difficult is it to get micron accuracy of the Z height correct? Have tried tuning first layer thickness to the micrometre but not too many layers later it is off by a good 100 microns. Do you think it might be a deflection of the gantry or the frame based on the position of the heat bed in the core xy printer?
@@VisionMiner It looks like it is more the Aluminium expanding at a different Rate as the steel MGN Rail. The flex over a 600mm rail is quite noticeable.
Sorry but this questions is about resins. 3D systems Figure 4 claim to print with "environmental UV" stable resins (to replace an injection moulded part in full sun). Is this possible when it requires UV to cure the part. Do you know if this is accurate. Thank you
Great video again! I hope to finish up all my modifications then I'll be doing some high temp work. Exhaust shields are what I will be focusing on. When I get into the high temp stuff I'm sure I'll have lots of questions!
After owning an Anycubic i3 Mega for about 5 years, I was thinking on switching to something else which would give me the best finish when coming to dimensional accuracy, as possible. Still needs to be FDM, so.. what would you suggest ? Thanks.
I do not agree on the fast printing layer bonding on the big prints. If you print faster, you get faster over the same spot right? Do it has less time to cool down, so layer bonding would be better
Would absolutely love a HT video! I absolutely HATE having to restart HT materials... Waiting for the bed to reheat.... Trying to pick the boogers and strip of the previous failed print (while burning your hand on the bed and getting a wiff of fumes)... Etc... I guess for a video worthy research, maybe do nozzle and bed expansion for different metals and bed types. I know when I switched from OBC to ASA, I forgot to account for heat expansion and gouged a deep trench into my bed 😭😭😭. It would be nice to know if I switch from low temp material A, how much do I need to offset for high temp material B if I'm using a brass nozzle... Or stainless... Etc
A HT slicing guide would be great for seeing potential hiccups and roadblocks that you wouldn't have thought of from watching previous 'overview' style setups.
On Creality touchscreens, they will let you set the print speed to high speeds but dont have the facility to increase the acceleration so although it will say you are printing at the faster speed you have selected, in reality, you most definitely are not, some of their stock firmware was shackled also not that I kept that stock firmware for long as it was pathetic even if you sliced to that faster speed, they could not even get the X, Y offset correctly for ABL for 99% of their machines so you got the nozzle in the place were the probe should have been and ended up with a mesh that was not uniform or correct and only four-fifths of the bed actually probed
Do you guys use multi material printers? I'm mainly interested in the quality, speed, and waste material differences when using multiple materials in the same print. I love the idea of water soluble supports, as well as combining complementary materials. Do nozzle changers or duel extruders leak while waiting on the other material to print? How do they not make a stringy mess?
It all increases complexity, and therefore the challenge, but once tuned in, you're usually good to go. Our new 22 IDEX is independent dual extrusion, so the extruders are off to the side during the prints, which prevents oozing and leaking, followed by a brush :)
Curious regarding IDEX (or tool changers) vs Nozzle Switching multi-extrusion machines. I've been running an E3D Chimera for some time now and it works, but there are obvious downsides to the design and I'm looking for where to go next on custom/modified printers. Nozzle switching seems like the best option for minimizing ooze and decreasing print times, but with the minor downside of higher mass on the tool head. Is there another reason IDEX is seemingly far more common? This is coming from a hobbyist perspective, so perhaps there are machines that sport both equally in the higher end market.
The biggest thing is probably preventing oozing on the part with the non-active nozzle -- but it also enables duplicate/mirror printing, which can double productivity :)
what kinds of backpressures do you see on the max side of all your materials in the filament manufacturing for BP back pressures?do you get up over 7500 lbs/sqIN maybe you dont have BP guages??how about a MT gauge? do you have one on each filament line?(Melt Temp) what screw design are you using standard high output or a custom grind ? do you use 20/40/60/40/20 screen packs or how do you filter contamitates?
I have been using the Raise3D Pro series printer for quite a while now, but I have a 22IDEX purchased, just waiting for it to ship to me (Q2 pre-order), and I'm wondering what slicer do you guys recommend for the 22IDEX? I have been looking at some of the options. Raise3D has their own, which is IdeaMaker, which I have learned how to get the best from my prints with it on the Raise3D, but I'm fairly sure I won't be able to use it for the 22IDEX. In any case, IdeaMaker has an issue with how it prints, in that it doesn't do a very good job in terms of optimizing print time by reducing travel time. Print speed will be important to me on the 22IDEX, because I'll be using it to print production parts. I don't necessary need to it print super fast, in terms of the movement speed, but noticing how IdeaMaker works, I realize that a lot of the print time is really in the travel time, based on how it works. So, print speed is important, and optimizing the print speed is an important factor in selecting the slicer. I'm not finding good online information that really talks about that. So, any ideas of what I should pursue as I get my 22IDEX, I would appreciate it.
We're going to be supporting Simplify3D, but it will also come with profiles for Super Slicer -- and most slicers will "work" but may require your own setup -- and we're finally shipping out of Ukraine again, so video updates coming soon on the version you'll be receiving! Thanks for the comment!
I would love a straight answer on where the sweet spot is for an entry level 3D scanner. I fight with the Arctek eva at our makerspace until I want to throw it through a window. I don't use a turntable, I use a turntable. I have a lot of light, I have no light. It is always so hard to get a auto-aligned model. Is there a decent resolution scanner for under a thousand bucks. Or is meshroom and photogrammetry a better route? Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us mere mortals :-)
Under $1000? Don't think so. Your best bet is the Einscan SP at $2500 right now --- but it's not handheld -- for that, the Pro 2x 2020 can be had for around $6000, but the Pro HD is worth the extra $1700 for $7699 -- or, with the turntable too, around $8400. Prices have come down from a few years ago, but nothing in the consumer range that we know of yet!
@Dan Roesch We haven't used those, but from my knowledge it can be very accurate -- just takes a lot more work, and you don't actually get measurements, just geometries :)
Are there any printers that work on a radial coordinate system? What I mean by that is a printer with a z axis and a r axis (radius axis riding on the z axis). So much of manufactured parts are cylindrical in shape for rotational motion. It just seems logical that a radial coordinate system would be so much more accurate. Thanks!
But FDM has changed with time. The bamboo labs x1 now prints at 400ms so it's changing and the filament is also changing. And yes you can change the ender 5 to print fast depending on the hot end and boards and fans. Upgrade are easy and can be done now if you have the time and money. So yes bamboo labs can now print fast and very accurate.
i know the video is 2 years old BUT watching 2 dudes talk what they learned and not read a fucking script in front of their face is so refreshing. I mean, is every channel now some sort of news channel where you gotta read like a robot? Thanks for all the information, cheers
oh and btw, I literally jumped into 3D printing world without any research, found used Anycubic mega x for like 1/4 of the price with a couple filament rolls nearby. It's amazing how precise it can get with minimum tweaking. Building a CNC for myself at the moment and was super worried how am I going to obtain parts that hold bearings, linear rods, etc. Turns out - just like that.
I usually do a test print and print a block to see what my expansion/contraction ratio is and adjust the scale of whatever im printing to combat that lose of precision. Even on my prusa mk4 i have to do that. I never expect perfect results cause like you said, its melted plastic being spewed out lol.
The future, for sure, as it eliminates an entire segment of the supply chain -- pellet to print is awesome! Getting a really well-designed and tuned solution for smaller scale printers down to an affordable price will take a bit longer, but it's definitely on the way in the next 3-5 years, I would say
Nice video. Keep it up. I've been offered to buy a ff creator 3 v1(i think) whit 82h run time for half price. It's a hard machine to research and im wondering if you guys think it's any good? Im a hobby 3d printer who's looking to advance my skills and print accuracy. I mainly make functional prints and occasionally some toys for the kids. The dual extruders is the main thing to be able to print in duplicate mode.
The "hard to research" part is a good tell -- there's not much of a community around those particular machines, so it makes them harder to fix and modify. We had a creator 3 with the consideration of selling them, but for our specialty (high temp, nylons, polycarbs, etc) it just wasn't performing to our customers needs, so we never sold them. For the price, it's a decent dual extruder / IDEX machine, for basic materials, but there are probably better options out there!
I cast candy, chocolate and toys,. Are there food safe filament? I want a 3d printer so that I can go from design straight to working prototype . Do I need a commercial grade printer? Or can a $500 one off of Amazon work and I mean work every day 9 to 5
OK, so, a few things on this one: 1. PSU and other high-temp filaments are food safe, yes -- on a polymer resin basis, not necessarily with the manufacturing style due to the layers, but it can be steam sterilized or chemically sterilized and so can many of the other high-temp filaments 2. Commercial grade vs. Amazon -- for high-temp filaments, you'll need to spend more to be able to process and use the higher-end filaments 3. Will it work every day 9-5 (amazon or commercial) -- basically no 3D printer is bulletproof yet. As with any industrial piece of machinery, occasionally things go down and need replacing -- that being said, you'll have a much better time with an industrial grade machine over the consumer-basic machines you'll find on amazon. Anything under $8000 at this point generally requires a good amount of maintenance and operator skill to maintain. Hope this helps!
it's all true when people write 300mm/s on the slicer they think the printer is running at 300mm/s or 500 mm/s, the important thing is that the parts fit together, center-to-center accuracy is important and it is quite easy to achieve this, the hole does not come out 2mm, it comes out 1.6 mm, it is not a problem, it solves it with a drill, but if the centers do not match, then you will lose time and material.
I fail to see how small variations in filament diameter can affect the quality of the print. You're taking 1.75 mm and squeezing (extruding) it down to 0.4 mm. Big variations perhaps, but that was not being talked about here..
I just bought my first printer a few months back. It is a Raise3D E2CF that only uses proprietary filament and the settings cannot be changed. Learn from my mistake and don't do that.
Pellet Extruder? If the need of better heat transfer to the plastic is an issue, then using pellets (especially if the grains are the size of fine corn meal) would definitely be the better alternative for high speed extrusion. And of course a really good part cooling fan to top it off.
The $14 ABS from a seller "online" may well be a pre-degraded regrind. At least this is what it seems the one i got behaves like, it's very prone to cracking and getting cooked brownish during printing.
OK, well I'm that guy.. I've got an Ender3 inside a 1/4" thick Acry-lite enclosure. I've mounted the control electronics out of the box. I put together a 500 Way PTC heater/fan setup controlled with a digital device.... AND I still print most of my parts at 40-60 mps, even when I'm heating it to 90c. BUT I can print CF-12 Nylon and beautiful PC parts. My parts don't warp, and according to my dog they don't come apart easy. Not bad for a hobby printer..
Because the vast majority of consumer-grade 3D printers are meant to only print PLA. So they have a PTFE tube butting right up against the heat break, which means nozzle temp can only go up to about 260˚C. Plus PLA is cheap and ubiquitous, due to economies of scale.
So true... but I alao see some of this a little differently. First, let me say, I hope that high speed 3D printing becomes an official e-sport! 😄🤣 Because I think 3D printing will be dramatically different in the VERY near future. Right now, it's all about overcoming the limitations of the thermal and fluid dynamics of the material delivery system, and then using machine learning to "actively" correct errors and counter machine resonances. E.G., better controlled velocities. It's a race to create the fastest, lightest, and most balanced print heads, coupled with minimal gantry designs, then combined with high flow extrusion, and finally maximizing those speeds and the accuracy with software. The only reason Creality printers ever worked is the light print head with bowden... because otherwise, a shuffling bed is the absolute worst possible design, and it sends terrible unnecessary resonances throughout all of the parts. The taller the part, the worse it becomes, and the slower you have to go. That's important because it represents the bulk of home 3D printers. But with newer designs and machine learning, where software like Klipper is moving the needle to tackle resonances, things are about to change... Even Nvidia offers an affordable AI board now. It won't be long until an A.I. like Alpha Go is tasked to play the "3D printing game," and then movement will become more precise than ever, even for many old, cheap, and plain terrible printers. High-flow-high-pressure-high-temp extrusion is is next in line IMO. Print head mounted extruders, even the best designed, most minimalistic ultra-light titanium+aerogel "secondary" extruders are bad, because absolutely any extra mass on the moving print head is bad, period. IMO, a lonely nozzle driven by just a floss of dynema, 2 power wires, 2 thermister wires, a thin high pressure air cooling line (GOD not CPAP), and a molten material delivery line, would be the best case most minimal configuration possible. So I don't think it'll be pellets or filament "at" the print head, I think it'll be molten plastics like the very first attempts at 3D printing, using similar equipment as is currently used in injection molding. The "flinging" filament is definitely a real challenge at high speeds, but I can imagine multiple simple ways that it might also be addressed through flow rate and nozzle exit designs. Previously, it was simply a non-issue, so the designs haven't caught up to the possible speeds yet. For instance, future nozzles might resemble airbrushes. Think of thinner compounds like DIY ABS slurry or resin, where an acetone like compound could rapidly evaporate when exposed to the air, or possibly be cured by UV light, leaving behind a thin layer of cured plastic on each pass. That might allow for higher pressures and velocities that overcome those flinging centrifugal forces. Or nozzles that rotate like vinyl cutters, ejecting molten plastic in a controlled direction. Or beds that tilt to catch it, by keeping the part in line with the flinging material. I'm not suggesting that any of these ideas are good, but there are enough plausible paths that someone will certainly solve that soon, now that high speed machine movement is achievable.
Not sure if you can actually 3D print money 😂👍 but speed printing is definitely becoming a bit of a sport. Check out the insane speeds achieved on the Vez3D channel: 500mm/s is just for warming-up.
I love the engineers why cause they don't try to sell you something they don't do marketing! All engineers vision around the world is making a world a better place to live more easily than past time conditions right! Even 3D Printer manufacturers started to think themselves as a pioneer of CNC machines... Which is absurd. I am pretty sure lots of them even haven't heard about best CNC manufacturers of the world like HAAS or Okuma CNC's if you guys want accuracy go for them😅 but they are at least 400.000 dollars and they don't print... Those CNC's are not additive macufacturing they are subtractive manufacturing method but they do give hell of accuracy! That is why injection molds usually CNCed with them... Thank you guys for telling the truth! Lots of people think 3D printing is the pinnacle of CNC manufacturing😂😂😂 now at least they have some idea what actually 3D printing is... As you guys say it's complex really having a perfect extrusion, melt filament in right spot in right time without heatcreep and a good nozzle, having a perfectly leveled bed a perfect Z-Offset height... etc like you said it's complex.
It's funny, because everyone says that, but in practice, it hasn't caused us any issues..... but regardless, we built our own, specifically for high temp, new videos coming sooooooon! :)
I am a professional 3D Printing Technician and I have had customers complain that their parts did not arrive with the stated accuracy of the machine from the MFG of 0.01mm, with the misunderstanding that minimum feature size is not the same as accuracy.
Then it's your job to make sure that they understand that, if you don't want unhappy customers.
@@marcus3d Usually it's sales that is supposed to handle customer expectations
@@StinkPickle4000 You're right. The "you" was referring to the service provider, as opposed to the customer. My point was that it's not the customer's fault for not understanding this, but the service provider's fault.
Yes minimum feature size is the same as accuracy. You have been scammed by the chinese printer companies and now you are repeating their lies. What other industry has such nonsense?
😊
Every 3D printing enthusiast should "like" this video, as it sums up quite a few things, that we had to spent lots of rolls of filament to realize. Thumbs Up!
Would love to see a HT slicing settings video from you guys!
1:11 "150 mm/s" is not volume per time, so you can't say "to move that much material that quickly". It's literally a distance per time. You'd need 2(!!!) more dimensions for it to be volume per time, namely line width and layer height.
Is there a global conspiracy to keep the price of PEEK expensive?
8-)
Yes, it's Q's secret material.
North america does not have a plant for PEI and alike resins saudi and one more place is it they are not made like other resins in a reactor this is price protection and those plants are super super expensive thus our costs here! its all offshore and about 25$/lbs and up FOB the true cost is half that if we had one here using enough to pay the plant here but at 21 million start up i dont see this happening anytime soon until our demands go up to warrent this and still you then have sabic at your feet...
FUN FACT SABIC IS NOT THE INNOVATOR OF PEI Genral Electric was the founder sold it to them decades ago
Are servo-driven printers, quieter than stepper-motors?
Is there some kind of curve smoothing that the dumb-bit-steps don't do?
do your filaments come with a gauge profile of that roll?
No, most filament manufacturers do not provide this, but it's definitely something up and coming in the industry
Thanks for the great content. Can you also provide some tips and techniques for printing water-tight, pressurized fluidic components?
crank the extrusion multiplier and line width, use a big nozzle, and go HOT HOT HOT!
When will we see more Idex 22 vids. I am on the fence and want to see more vids in action. Thanks!
Very soon, LOTS of updates on the latest versions :) :)
ISO could help your C OF A validity do you pay an up charge on your resin purchasing for the c of a for every load or just at random loads? normally 1-2cents /lbs on 78000lbs(tanker)-180000/lbs (rail car) or box or bags/lot run and date. my question is the material a blanket C of A or a running each load C of A? do you get a c of a for each load or at random?and for each it would be specific to that load only?
We get our COAs from the filament manufacturers based on the lot number found on each spool
is turbulence a good or bad thing in an heated chamber?
Consistency is key.... turbulence may keep it all mixed up, but keeping consistent temperature makes a difference.
Very rare I learn something from a 3D printer company video... thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Such an underrated channel. Bringing it down to reality as always. Thank You!
About accuracy, I often see people designing parts for printing the same way as if they were going to be machined from billet aluminum or tool steel, with the same tolerances. There seems to be a lack of education in the manufacturing industry around how to design specifically for printing, and how to design for inaccuracy (meaning: factoring in inherent printing inaccuracy).
Maybe that's something a channel like yours can help evangelize about.
A tut about Utem / peek printing sounds awesome
What patents were you referring to?
I think it was Stratasys patent teaching to leave the electronics off the heat chamber.
How difficult is it to get micron accuracy of the Z height correct? Have tried tuning first layer thickness to the micrometre but not too many layers later it is off by a good 100 microns. Do you think it might be a deflection of the gantry or the frame based on the position of the heat bed in the core xy printer?
That's probably your initial z-offset -- but gantry/frame issues can definitely affect it, especially if part of the gantry or bed is warped!
@@VisionMiner It looks like it is more the Aluminium expanding at a different Rate as the steel MGN Rail. The flex over a 600mm rail is quite noticeable.
Sorry but this questions is about resins.
3D systems Figure 4 claim to print with "environmental UV" stable resins (to replace an injection moulded part in full sun). Is this possible when it requires UV to cure the part. Do you know if this is accurate. Thank you
Generally curing is at a specific NM (405nm) wavelength -- whereas environmental UV can be a broad spectrum, so yes, this is possible.
Thanks for clearing it up!
Great video again! I hope to finish up all my modifications then I'll be doing some high temp work. Exhaust shields are what I will be focusing on. When I get into the high temp stuff I'm sure I'll have lots of questions!
After owning an Anycubic i3 Mega for about 5 years, I was thinking on switching to something else which would give me the best finish when coming to dimensional accuracy, as possible. Still needs to be FDM, so.. what would you suggest ? Thanks.
00:56 "Can you 3D print money" HAHAHA
High temp slicing guide/tutorial please! :D
I do not agree on the fast printing layer bonding on the big prints. If you print faster, you get faster over the same spot right? Do it has less time to cool down, so layer bonding would be better
Can you make a video on how to tune for accuracy?
What is "5 taw" in mm ?
THX I was always curious what is the difference between $200 printer and $200k printer in quality. Possibilities of materials is oblivious.
Would absolutely love a HT video! I absolutely HATE having to restart HT materials... Waiting for the bed to reheat.... Trying to pick the boogers and strip of the previous failed print (while burning your hand on the bed and getting a wiff of fumes)... Etc...
I guess for a video worthy research, maybe do nozzle and bed expansion for different metals and bed types. I know when I switched from OBC to ASA, I forgot to account for heat expansion and gouged a deep trench into my bed 😭😭😭.
It would be nice to know if I switch from low temp material A, how much do I need to offset for high temp material B if I'm using a brass nozzle... Or stainless... Etc
A HT slicing guide would be great for seeing potential hiccups and roadblocks that you wouldn't have thought of from watching previous 'overview' style setups.
On Creality touchscreens, they will let you set the print speed to high speeds but dont have the facility to increase the acceleration so although it will say you are printing at the faster speed you have selected, in reality, you most definitely are not, some of their stock firmware was shackled also not that I kept that stock firmware for long as it was pathetic even if you sliced to that faster speed, they could not even get the X, Y offset correctly for ABL for 99% of their machines so you got the nozzle in the place were the probe should have been and ended up with a mesh that was not uniform or correct and only four-fifths of the bed actually probed
You absolutely can adjust the accel and jerk on the configuration screen
@@MakerMark On which machine?
Depends on the machine, of course....
Definitely interested in a high temp guide; that's not a topic covered very well in most places.
Do you guys use multi material printers? I'm mainly interested in the quality, speed, and waste material differences when using multiple materials in the same print. I love the idea of water soluble supports, as well as combining complementary materials. Do nozzle changers or duel extruders leak while waiting on the other material to print? How do they not make a stringy mess?
It all increases complexity, and therefore the challenge, but once tuned in, you're usually good to go. Our new 22 IDEX is independent dual extrusion, so the extruders are off to the side during the prints, which prevents oozing and leaking, followed by a brush :)
Reducing nozzle presssure tricks with long bowden setups?
Curious regarding IDEX (or tool changers) vs Nozzle Switching multi-extrusion machines. I've been running an E3D Chimera for some time now and it works, but there are obvious downsides to the design and I'm looking for where to go next on custom/modified printers.
Nozzle switching seems like the best option for minimizing ooze and decreasing print times, but with the minor downside of higher mass on the tool head. Is there another reason IDEX is seemingly far more common? This is coming from a hobbyist perspective, so perhaps there are machines that sport both equally in the higher end market.
The biggest thing is probably preventing oozing on the part with the non-active nozzle -- but it also enables duplicate/mirror printing, which can double productivity :)
what kinds of backpressures do you see on the max side of all your materials in the filament manufacturing for BP back pressures?do you get up over 7500 lbs/sqIN maybe you dont have BP guages??how about a MT gauge? do you have one on each filament line?(Melt Temp) what screw design are you using standard high output or a custom grind ? do you use 20/40/60/40/20 screen packs or how do you filter contamitates?
We don't do the material extrusion, no screws on our end, and the screens/process is unique to each filament manufacturer
Yes to the high temp slicing guide!
I have been using the Raise3D Pro series printer for quite a while now, but I have a 22IDEX purchased, just waiting for it to ship to me (Q2 pre-order), and I'm wondering what slicer do you guys recommend for the 22IDEX? I have been looking at some of the options. Raise3D has their own, which is IdeaMaker, which I have learned how to get the best from my prints with it on the Raise3D, but I'm fairly sure I won't be able to use it for the 22IDEX. In any case, IdeaMaker has an issue with how it prints, in that it doesn't do a very good job in terms of optimizing print time by reducing travel time. Print speed will be important to me on the 22IDEX, because I'll be using it to print production parts. I don't necessary need to it print super fast, in terms of the movement speed, but noticing how IdeaMaker works, I realize that a lot of the print time is really in the travel time, based on how it works. So, print speed is important, and optimizing the print speed is an important factor in selecting the slicer. I'm not finding good online information that really talks about that. So, any ideas of what I should pursue as I get my 22IDEX, I would appreciate it.
We're going to be supporting Simplify3D, but it will also come with profiles for Super Slicer -- and most slicers will "work" but may require your own setup -- and we're finally shipping out of Ukraine again, so video updates coming soon on the version you'll be receiving! Thanks for the comment!
I would love a straight answer on where the sweet spot is for an entry level 3D scanner. I fight with the Arctek eva at our makerspace until I want to throw it through a window. I don't use a turntable, I use a turntable. I have a lot of light, I have no light. It is always so hard to get a auto-aligned model. Is there a decent resolution scanner for under a thousand bucks. Or is meshroom and photogrammetry a better route? Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us mere mortals :-)
Under $1000? Don't think so. Your best bet is the Einscan SP at $2500 right now --- but it's not handheld -- for that, the Pro 2x 2020 can be had for around $6000, but the Pro HD is worth the extra $1700 for $7699 -- or, with the turntable too, around $8400. Prices have come down from a few years ago, but nothing in the consumer range that we know of yet!
@@VisionMiner Thanks a ton for the response! How accurate is photogrammetry like Reality Capture or Meshroom?
@Dan Roesch We haven't used those, but from my knowledge it can be very accurate -- just takes a lot more work, and you don't actually get measurements, just geometries :)
Yes! We want the HT advanced slicing guide.
Are there any printers that work on a radial coordinate system? What I mean by that is a printer with a z axis and a r axis (radius axis riding on the z axis). So much of manufactured parts are cylindrical in shape for rotational motion. It just seems logical that a radial coordinate system would be so much more accurate. Thanks!
But I love this video it gives great Ideas. But the more you pay the better the printer the better the print.
But FDM has changed with time. The bamboo labs x1 now prints at 400ms so it's changing and the filament is also changing. And yes you can change the ender 5 to print fast depending on the hot end and boards and fans. Upgrade are easy and can be done now if you have the time and money. So yes bamboo labs can now print fast and very accurate.
Thanks. Still learning.
i know the video is 2 years old BUT watching 2 dudes talk what they learned and not read a fucking script in front of their face is so refreshing. I mean, is every channel now some sort of news channel where you gotta read like a robot? Thanks for all the information, cheers
oh and btw, I literally jumped into 3D printing world without any research, found used Anycubic mega x for like 1/4 of the price with a couple filament rolls nearby. It's amazing how precise it can get with minimum tweaking. Building a CNC for myself at the moment and was super worried how am I going to obtain parts that hold bearings, linear rods, etc. Turns out - just like that.
I usually do a test print and print a block to see what my expansion/contraction ratio is and adjust the scale of whatever im printing to combat that lose of precision. Even on my prusa mk4 i have to do that. I never expect perfect results cause like you said, its melted plastic being spewed out lol.
Straight answer this one: Is pellet printers the future? Ex. Piocreat G5. Why not?
The future, for sure, as it eliminates an entire segment of the supply chain -- pellet to print is awesome! Getting a really well-designed and tuned solution for smaller scale printers down to an affordable price will take a bit longer, but it's definitely on the way in the next 3-5 years, I would say
This is really an awesome video. Love to hear your educated, experienced rant!
Love your videos guys!! Straight forward and honest, rare qualities these days. Thanks for the help.
Nice video. Keep it up. I've been offered to buy a ff creator 3 v1(i think) whit 82h run time for half price. It's a hard machine to research and im wondering if you guys think it's any good?
Im a hobby 3d printer who's looking to advance my skills and print accuracy. I mainly make functional prints and occasionally some toys for the kids. The dual extruders is the main thing to be able to print in duplicate mode.
The "hard to research" part is a good tell -- there's not much of a community around those particular machines, so it makes them harder to fix and modify. We had a creator 3 with the consideration of selling them, but for our specialty (high temp, nylons, polycarbs, etc) it just wasn't performing to our customers needs, so we never sold them. For the price, it's a decent dual extruder / IDEX machine, for basic materials, but there are probably better options out there!
I cast candy, chocolate and toys,. Are there food safe filament? I want a 3d printer so that I can go from design straight to working prototype . Do I need a commercial grade printer? Or can a $500 one off of Amazon work and I mean work every day 9 to 5
OK, so, a few things on this one:
1. PSU and other high-temp filaments are food safe, yes -- on a polymer resin basis, not necessarily with the manufacturing style due to the layers, but it can be steam sterilized or chemically sterilized and so can many of the other high-temp filaments
2. Commercial grade vs. Amazon -- for high-temp filaments, you'll need to spend more to be able to process and use the higher-end filaments
3. Will it work every day 9-5 (amazon or commercial) -- basically no 3D printer is bulletproof yet. As with any industrial piece of machinery, occasionally things go down and need replacing -- that being said, you'll have a much better time with an industrial grade machine over the consumer-basic machines you'll find on amazon. Anything under $8000 at this point generally requires a good amount of maintenance and operator skill to maintain.
Hope this helps!
it's all true when people write 300mm/s on the slicer they think the printer is running at 300mm/s or 500 mm/s, the important thing is that the parts fit together, center-to-center accuracy is important and it is quite easy to achieve this, the hole does not come out 2mm, it comes out 1.6 mm, it is not a problem, it solves it with a drill, but if the centers do not match, then you will lose time and material.
I never print above 30mm/s max. That's my infill and inner wall speed. Outer wall around 24mm/s. I like accuracy, strength and nice looking parts.
Next time someone asks why I'll choose a Voron over a Bambulab any day, I'll send em this video.
I fail to see how small variations in filament diameter can affect the quality of the print. You're taking 1.75 mm and squeezing (extruding) it down to 0.4 mm. Big variations perhaps, but that was not being talked about here..
I just bought my first printer a few months back. It is a Raise3D E2CF that only uses proprietary filament and the settings cannot be changed. Learn from my mistake and don't do that.
Amen!
What a nightmare, how are the prints you’re getting off it?
Yuo get wats yuo pay (sorry)
@@noway8233 Not in the realm of 3D printers. There are far too many salesmen that grossly overstate what their printers can do.
Pellet Extruder? If the need of better heat transfer to the plastic is an issue, then using pellets (especially if the grains are the size of fine corn meal) would definitely be the better alternative for high speed extrusion. And of course a really good part cooling fan to top it off.
you could also probably do 90% PA-6 CF. they should probably test that
Awesome video! Trust is the right way to build a business and you your are legit!
The truth is always fascinating.
Great video!!!
Great discussion as always
Great points and great video guys
The $14 ABS from a seller "online" may well be a pre-degraded regrind. At least this is what it seems the one i got behaves like, it's very prone to cracking and getting cooked brownish during printing.
OK, well I'm that guy.. I've got an Ender3 inside a 1/4" thick Acry-lite enclosure. I've mounted the control electronics out of the box. I put together a 500 Way PTC heater/fan setup controlled with a digital device.... AND I still print most of my parts at 40-60 mps, even when I'm heating it to 90c. BUT I can print CF-12 Nylon and beautiful PC parts. My parts don't warp, and according to my dog they don't come apart easy. Not bad for a hobby printer..
Wow! You guys are incredible! Your content is spot on! Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks guys
Thank you too! Feel free to subscribe, lots more coming!
Why has PCTG not exploded in demand and variety of offerings?
Because the vast majority of consumer-grade 3D printers are meant to only print PLA. So they have a PTFE tube butting right up against the heat break, which means nozzle temp can only go up to about 260˚C. Plus PLA is cheap and ubiquitous, due to economies of scale.
So true... but I alao see some of this a little differently.
First, let me say, I hope that high speed 3D printing becomes an official e-sport! 😄🤣
Because I think 3D printing will be dramatically different in the VERY near future.
Right now, it's all about overcoming the limitations of the thermal and fluid dynamics of the material delivery system, and then using machine learning to "actively" correct errors and counter machine resonances. E.G., better controlled velocities.
It's a race to create the fastest, lightest, and most balanced print heads, coupled with minimal gantry designs, then combined with high flow extrusion, and finally maximizing those speeds and the accuracy with software.
The only reason Creality printers ever worked is the light print head with bowden... because otherwise, a shuffling bed is the absolute worst possible design, and it sends terrible unnecessary resonances throughout all of the parts. The taller the part, the worse it becomes, and the slower you have to go. That's important because it represents the bulk of home 3D printers.
But with newer designs and machine learning, where software like Klipper is moving the needle to tackle resonances, things are about to change... Even Nvidia offers an affordable AI board now. It won't be long until an A.I. like Alpha Go is tasked to play the "3D printing game," and then movement will become more precise than ever, even for many old, cheap, and plain terrible printers.
High-flow-high-pressure-high-temp extrusion is is next in line IMO. Print head mounted extruders, even the best designed, most minimalistic ultra-light titanium+aerogel "secondary" extruders are bad, because absolutely any extra mass on the moving print head is bad, period.
IMO, a lonely nozzle driven by just a floss of dynema, 2 power wires, 2 thermister wires, a thin high pressure air cooling line (GOD not CPAP), and a molten material delivery line, would be the best case most minimal configuration possible.
So I don't think it'll be pellets or filament "at" the print head, I think it'll be molten plastics like the very first attempts at 3D printing, using similar equipment as is currently used in injection molding.
The "flinging" filament is definitely a real challenge at high speeds, but I can imagine multiple simple ways that it might also be addressed through flow rate and nozzle exit designs. Previously, it was simply a non-issue, so the designs haven't caught up to the possible speeds yet.
For instance, future nozzles might resemble airbrushes. Think of thinner compounds like DIY ABS slurry or resin, where an acetone like compound could rapidly evaporate when exposed to the air, or possibly be cured by UV light, leaving behind a thin layer of cured plastic on each pass. That might allow for higher pressures and velocities that overcome those flinging centrifugal forces.
Or nozzles that rotate like vinyl cutters, ejecting molten plastic in a controlled direction.
Or beds that tilt to catch it, by keeping the part in line with the flinging material.
I'm not suggesting that any of these ideas are good, but there are enough plausible paths that someone will certainly solve that soon, now that high speed machine movement is achievable.
Great reality check!
Not sure if you can actually 3D print money 😂👍 but speed printing is definitely becoming a bit of a sport.
Check out the insane speeds achieved on the Vez3D channel: 500mm/s is just for warming-up.
I love the engineers why cause they don't try to sell you something they don't do marketing! All engineers vision around the world is making a world a better place to live more easily than past time conditions right! Even 3D Printer manufacturers started to think themselves as a pioneer of CNC machines... Which is absurd. I am pretty sure lots of them even haven't heard about best CNC manufacturers of the world like HAAS or Okuma CNC's if you guys want accuracy go for them😅 but they are at least 400.000 dollars and they don't print... Those CNC's are not additive macufacturing they are subtractive manufacturing method but they do give hell of accuracy! That is why injection molds usually CNCed with them... Thank you guys for telling the truth! Lots of people think 3D printing is the pinnacle of CNC manufacturing😂😂😂 now at least they have some idea what actually 3D printing is... As you guys say it's complex really having a perfect extrusion, melt filament in right spot in right time without heatcreep and a good nozzle, having a perfectly leveled bed a perfect Z-Offset height... etc like you said it's complex.
well im not a 3d printer expert but slow is always better yes it takes longer but worth the wait
It’s like some people say, 3D printers are glorified hot glue guns
Very intersting
As a newer person to 3D printing, I find your videos WAY to terminology dense and not conducive to new 3D printer users. Thank you.
Try starting with someone like CHEP. He's a good beginner guy.
i say blt is crap what say you?
It's funny, because everyone says that, but in practice, it hasn't caused us any issues..... but regardless, we built our own, specifically for high temp, new videos coming sooooooon! :)
I did not like this video
So much for constructive criticism
@@AwestrikeFearofGods At least he's honest :)