Holley Street Avenger 4150 Carburetor Basic Tuning Guide Episode 219 Autorestomod
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- We take an out of the box 570cfm Holley Street Avenger from Summit Racing and So a basic tune on the carburetor and talk about some of the tings to look out for when driving.
Thanks for watching!
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Parts:
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Holley Aluminum Street Avenger Carburetors: 0-83570
Holley® Fuel Feed Lines: 34-150
Im 39 "retired Military" and just getting into cars, I bought a 1972 Chevelle with a Holley carb. With the help of your videos I got it running pretty good now, Just wanted to say thanks for doing these, and keep up the good work
+Chris Wat Thanks for your service to our country, we appreciate your sacrifices. We're glad that the videos have helped. We'll be doing some more Holley stuff in the coming months.
I just wanted to say a big thanks to you guys For helping my out getting to grips with my Holley.
I’m a dummy in England and just purchased a Cobra Replica with a 427ci stroked 351Windsor that has a Holley 4150 on it. I have never owned any kind of US motor, do was completely like a fish out of water.
Jeff replied with many emails and helped me to understand what I was looking at and to get the carb really dialled in. Cheers Jeff. :)
Not a dummy mate! We all can be taught something. Me included. Glad we could help and hope that Cobra give you many smiles per gallon!
Your gonba love that motor!
Just acquired a 79 Camaro with a (not original) 350 and running a street avenger 670. Previous owner had removed the electric choke (along with the thermostat etc) so I am getting set back to where it should be and this video will be very helpful. The choke seemed to have cured the lean condition at cold weather start causing intake manifold backfire. It is currently set up using ported vacuum so I think I will try to change that and dial in the timing, then its time to tune. Thanks for all the great videos!
Be sure to get a thermostat back in there too! Thanks for the kind words.
I didn't realize these guys are in aiken, sc....i need to come visit
Great info. Always enjoy your videos.
The bit about the comp tester would only work if the gauge doesnt have a check valve and if the place at which the engine stops it when the valves are closed. It looks as though your gauge shown has a pressure release so you wouldnt have an accurate result. You would need an actuall leak down tester and have the cylinder your testind have both valves closed.
We should all donate and get you some A/C for the garage. Oh yeah and MORE VINNIE!
MrFastbackAndy Love the idea but we'd just spend the money on a lift LOL. We have AC in the garage but the doors (front standard and rear roll) eat it up in the summer. And doing this sort of thing would be very bad with the doors closed.
Great video.
Thanks!
got a 70 c10 with chevy 350 small block, gonna put a 1450 cfm 670
Great info again Thanks.. but I have a older holley, signal fual tube 4bar ? On my 69 351 engine ?
Hey Tony when you coming to Florida i could use a few tips on my old truck.
W'ell be in Ocala in the next couple of months.
69 Mustang 302 c4. Aluminum heads. Aluminum intake. New Holley 600 vacuum secondaries. MSD ready run distributor 14 base 21 mechanical. In gear vacuum 7. Power valve 3.5.
In park car idles perfect no up and down. But once in drive and stepping on gas to take off I get hesitation and detonation sound. Plugs are tan white. Accelerator pump is working in location 1. I did go up in pump squirter size 31 to 35 but not much of a difference. So went back to 31.
What steps would you do to richen up? It wants more fuel. Or maybe has too much timing?
Thanks for any info.
The power valve seems a bit deep. I'd like to see it around a 6 to start.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media ok thanks. Was talking with Holley today. They said go up a few jet sizes and try a 37 squirter. So if that doesn’t help may try the 65 power valve and go back to the 66 jets.
Thanks for the response and I enjoy all your shows 👍
Whaddup, Doug? How did it work out?
@@mickangio16 In the end my float height was too low. Runs real good now.
If your checking leak down both intake and exhaust needs to be closed or your just checking the cylinder not the valves correct?
Well Dustin does like to work. And I say let him if he wants to.
Thanks for the videos, Jeff. I, for one, would have liked to see you try the light secondary spring. Did you ever try it?
Yes I have. Made no difference other than a hesitation on hard acceleration.
I got a remanufactured atk ford 302 with a new stock holley 4160. The car came with a 31 nozzle and the orange cam. But I am struggling with an Off idle hesitation. I increased to a 35 nozzle, and was a very small improvement, but still the hesitation. So I tried the blue cam (with more gas in the beginning of the pedal struck), and the pink cam (less gas in the beginning of the pedal stroke). Both didn't make the hesitation go away. I guess my 1965 Mustang is a heavy car and according to Holley the Nozzle should then decrease to 30 or 25. But the 31 nozzle gave me also the Off idle hesitation.
What else can I do to get rid off this hesitation ?
We'd recommend an adjustment to the accelerator pump. Check the stroke and see if it is set correctly. Holley has a video on setting the pump: ua-cam.com/video/k-Nx5HEzvlY/v-deo.html
AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications Thank you. I will.
Ron06NL I had a seemingly incurable issue with my 570 Avenger on a mild built Chevy 283. After using every cam possible, multiple nozzle sizes and valve adjustment (and countless hours trying to figure it out) I finally came across some good comments and the only solution is a different metering block from a 4160. Apparently the Street Avenger is an emissions carb and the metering block holes are too small. I switched to the “Holley Replacement Metering Blocks 134-128S” and the problem is solved. Good luck!
Mike K the primary block?
Can you make a video on sticking butterflies? The butterfly on my street Avenger seems to be locked wide open, yet the truck drives fine.
+Vitel Gandara We'd recommend loosening the carburetor on the intake and seeing if the butterflies will close. Operate the butterflies with the carb loose look for lift. You may have a gasket that is interfering with the operation. Take the carb off and again check for good operation of the butterflies. Look at both the gasket and the intake for damage caused by the butterfly interference. Unless you have a bent shaft on the secondary throttle plate it would have to be one of these issues.
Mine idles super low on R N and drive but on park the idle is normal how can I fix that?
Idle in Drive should be around 500-600 rpm. Neutral should be the same as park. Not sure why yours is not idling right in neutral. You need to work with the idle mixture screw on the drivers side we show how to adjust that.
Aiken??? South Carolina??? I live over in Augusta Ya'll 🤠🤠👋👋👋👋
Come on over! We shoot most Saturdays! E mail me. Jford@autorestomod.com
Have a new Holley ultra street avenger 770Cfm on a 468 GM big block. Love the carb except for the fuel bowls going dry after only 3 week of sitting. Have to crank before starting and get black soot and liquid out the pipes, my old carb never went dry, and no soot etc. Any help would be great
+Bernadette Petersen Remember that the carburetor is vented. Fuel will vaporize (especially the Ethanol based gas) over time. You might check the bowl screws to make sure that they are tight. Look at the intake, if it has gas stains you may have a leaky accelerator pump.
I'm getting alot of black smoke out my tail pipe now with a very strong gas smell
Look to the power valve or float setting.
Nice video I have a question I have Ford F-150 7.5 Stock I just like to know if the Holley streed avenger 670 be ok for it
I think it would be good. I like the 670 so far...well accept for the whole ethanol problem.
What, if anything, would be the obvious difference of that engine's performance between the 570CFM Carb and the 750CFM carb?
It is a matter of "needed" air flow. The engine is only an air pump and can only flow so much air. a 289 or 305 will only use a small portion of the flow that a 750 will have available. Worse the air velocity will suffer causing the car to run richer. Yoou walk a fine line between velocity and flow. Check out some of the calculators for CFM to see what is recommended. Most of the time a 570 will be a great carburetor for anything up to a 350 or 351.
@@AutoRestoMod I took a look at the CFM calculator on number of sites using the CI of a car I had in my youth (a 1969 AMC Javelin with a 290ci engine). All seem to indicate that even a 570CFM Carb is about a 100cfm too much for a street engine of that size. So in that case is re-jetting the correct answer or do engines in that size range actually perform better with a good performance 2 bbl carb?
Great video my experience on the carb calculator I ran a 500 CFM 2bbl and the 350 CFM 2bbl for years I loved the 350 CFM it had great performance all the way up to 60mph although no ump of any secondary past that . I switched to a 600 CFM 4bbl with the Edelbrock RPM intake on my 390 with mild cam and headers . I was kinda disappointed 😞 on the take off performance compared to the 350 , the 600 primary side is smaller than the 350 2bbl athough once you get past the first 1/2 to the secondary then you notice a performance gain .
It was like a basic carb no real wow🥺 . I found a deal on a 670 CFM and the 600 looks like a baby compared to it the first 1/2 is like the 350 2bbl.anf you have the ump factor of the secondary my point 👉 the CFM calculator would had said the 670 was too big .
Thanks for the video, I have a summit 600 cfm carb on my 302 and my autolites 3923's are all black and smell like fuel. Any suggestions on where to start?
Well, it is REALLY rich. I'd say you might try backing off the jets and making sure the timing is spot on to factory (or aftermarket if the distributor is not stock) specs. We might be doing a distributor tune video if I can wrap my head around how to "tell that story" so everyone can understand.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks a lot, Ill try stepping down on the jets and see where we stand. I just invested in a dial back timing light so hopefully that helps.
CopCarsUSA
I’d replace that 600 with a Summit 500, a better fit for a little 302.
I have one on a 351W, good carb.👍
??? I have a 1983 Oldsmobile 98 and it did not pass smog lol..... because it's burning to much gas. the guy said something about the fuel control is not working ... Should i Just get a holley carb and put on it ?
+BIG KEY Depends on how you feel about the carburetor on the car Key, You might do better to try and rebuild it as that most likely runs a Quadrajet and is a spread bore. We'd recommend doing that first. Sadly we're not very familiar with the Rochester Quads.
I had a mid 80's Olds delta 88, great clean car, but had computer problems. I really hate computers, so I put an older distributor, had a brand new holley 4150 laying around. I jetted the carb lean, tuned it, and went right through inspection. I rejetted it after inspection, and after running it a few months, the fumes ruined the catylytic converter and it actually exploded. That was good, because that crap isnt really needed as well. And without computer and sensors, I wasnt breaking down every 2 weeks. Old school or no school.
Have someone familiar with the quadrajet have a look at it. 83, I dont suppose that's a feedback carburetor is it?
650 next?
mark turner LOL All of the 4150s are operationally the same. The tips we give are pretty universal. catually our next step might be an Atomic or FAST fuel injection.
I have hesitation on acceleration but then it clears up any thoughts?
Make sure the accelrator pumps is functioning properly.
holley ... the big expensive guess.. nobody tells you a small carb for street
Not really true. Holley even offers a selector guide.
www.holley.com/retailer/carbselector/
Vinnie is the best eye candy you got?
SixtyFiveDropTop Hmmmm didn't know you felt that way about him!
Shave that guy's head, and he'd be Hank from Breaking Bad.
Not shaving my head.
What a bunch of clowns , too many fumes I guess.
You should know.