I love your work. I love your filming. I love your editing. I love your storytelling. I love the information you give. I love the tips and tricks. I love your artistry. I love your workflow. I love your generosity in sharing your magic. Thanks for a brilliant maker's channel.
I'm very new to slip-casting (and ceramics in general) and have found your videos to be so helpful! Wish I knew the Windex trick before - I ended up using a few drops of Photo Flo in a small spray bottle on my 3D printed parts before casting plaster. Went from horrible bubbles to perfect surface!
Happy to help! I was considering photo Flo as an option to try, as we used it back in my FX days to make fake blood flow well. Windex is definitely a cheaper option :)
I suggest for removing bubbles from plaster casts and silicone cast, a 3ft x 3ft x 1ft vacuum chamber. It will suck all the bubbles to the surface, the plaster and silicone might also set harder. no more vibrating table. You will need to get a vacuum pump. I also use it for fiberglass resin vacuum forming and hot plastic sheet vacuum forming.
I keep coming back to this episode because of the wealth of information it contains. I need to get a plaster trap. And, I also need to get better at working with plaster.
Ok, but why is one turned the other way... 😭😭 28:52 - Joking... mostly. Thanks for another great video. Really makes me wish I had the space to try this out 😁
Thank you for sharing so generously! I'm curious why you keep the silicon molds in the wooden frames beyond the process of making them? Do you store them like this? Sorry if you already shared and I missed it. Thanks!
Good question! The wood case keeps the silicone from warping due to the weight of the plaster when casting. I keep the silicone nested in its frame when I use and store the molds.
Me again! Your video on making the silicone masters inspired me to try it and it was a wildly successful endeavor -- thanks to you and technical Tuesday! Now I need to know about your "Windex Mix" (which, given the nerves I was feeling casting that expensive silicone, ought to be a euphemism for "Whiskey -- make it a double!"): So what exactly is your "Windex Mix"?
Congratulations on the mold success!! For the windex mix, I go between a 50/50 windex to water mix, up to a 2/3 windex 1/3 water mix. It’s a small container so there is a wide margin of error 😄
@@vantikistudio fantastic -- thanks so much! I got my USG #1 plaster and I've filled my masters to find they take exactly 3qts of water per pair. So, as soon as my squirrel mixer comes in, I'll be trying your 3qts + 9lbs mixture and see what happens next!
I’m going back to rewatch this video and I have a question: why spritz the silicone molds with water/windex and not just isopropyl alcohol? I heard you shouldn’t use 100% windex because it may weaken the plaster. Wouldn’t the alcohol have the same effect?
Great question! I did a bunch of tests in the studio trying various mixtures of water and alcohol, water and windex, and even some other things folks suggested like Jet-Dry rinse aid. In the end for me a mix of water and windex gave the best surface, and it doesn’t seem to degrade the plaster in any way. I suspect windex is mostly made of water and alcohol 😄
Is there any problem with putting a wooden bottom on the box casing to support the silicone loaded with the plaster when you move it? I am planning on making some larger pieces and I’m nervous about the silicone folding out of the casing as I move it. Also I could put a drawing of the mold shape on the base to help orient it all. So, is it problematic overkill costing more, or a good idea?
Not a problem at all! Hammerly Ceramics on Instagram 3D prints his silicone enclosure, and puts a base on some of them. I’ve seen other artists use a sheet of acrylic as a base. Why don’t I do it? Cost for the wood, concern about warping, and time. The mold boxes work well for me without a bottom. When moving large molds off the vibrating table, I just fill them 2/3 full, then move them off the table. Haven’t had any issues (well, aside from the fact that they are HEAVY)
My apologies: You answered my Windex Mix question in the video and I somehow missed it -- sorry I wasted your time. Something I didn't miss but want to confirm: Did you say the plaster molds need to be left to dry out for weeks before you use them? How many weeks? Thanks again!
the molds need to dry completely before use - and that time can vary greatly depending on the size of the mold and the humidity of the environment. Airflow helps - put the mold under a fan and check it daily. When it no longer feels cool to the touch it is ready to go!
First let me say, I think you’re a wonderful teacher!!! Your videos are the best. Thank you. Now if you could just drop by my shop and help me organize it I would greatly appreciate it. 😊
😄 funny you should say that, my studio is a MESS right now! We’ve been going full steam since August and I haven’t had time to clean. We’ve scheduled a deep clean week in October and I CANT WAIT! 😂
Hey Henrik, Do you slipcast using the original plaster mold that you used to make the silicone mold? Or do you just use the molds that you make from the silicone mother molds? I ask because I’m having trouble with my plaster master as it was covered in mold soap and now it’s not absorbing the slip properly. Is there a way to remove the soft soap without damaging the plaster mold?
Pardon my ignorance but why not just make a a negative silicone mold of your original piece and slip cast in that? Seems like if that would cause issues then so would this ! But I've mever worked with slip or plaster. If it's because you use certain clays then there's some that can be used with tin cure and some that can be used with platinum cure I'm pretty sure
The catch is you can only cast slip in plaster molds - believe me I’d use silicone molds for everything if I could! Here is an explanation of why plaster makes slipcasting possible: ua-cam.com/video/2tU6sBD9r_I/v-deo.htmlsi=ZLn-UmH0rLDX_SS8
it depends on what stage of the process you are talking about. If you are planning on slip casting, you can make you master mold out of aluminum insured of silicone. As long as it has no undercuts or steep angles and you release it well, I suppose you ould then cast you plaster molds from the aluminum mold, and then slipcast your parts in the plaster mold. you need a plaster mold for slip casting to work. ua-cam.com/video/2tU6sBD9r_I/v-deo.html
I'm confused about how the lettering ends up in the bottom of the mold. When I watched the mold making video it seemed like the bottom of the mug model was flat.
good eye! That is a part of the process I like to keep a mystery. There are lots of ways to do it, and I've used many different techniques through the years.
Can you go over how you do your logo in the base ? .. how do you add it after you do the casting and before the silicone ? its not there after the initial plaster cast but is now .. what titki magic did you use ?
Any dust can be bad for your lungs, and gypsum (plaster) is a very fine dust. I like to wear a respirator any time I mix plaster and handle plaster in its dry powder form
It’s never too late for a Tiki Technical Tuesday!
I agree!
@@vantikistudio Hey there! Is there a scale or two that you recommend? Appreciate all of your informative content!
I love your work. I love your filming. I love your editing. I love your storytelling. I love the information you give. I love the tips and tricks. I love your artistry. I love your workflow. I love your generosity in sharing your magic. Thanks for a brilliant maker's channel.
Thank you so much! This made my day!!
I'm very new to slip-casting (and ceramics in general) and have found your videos to be so helpful! Wish I knew the Windex trick before - I ended up using a few drops of Photo Flo in a small spray bottle on my 3D printed parts before casting plaster. Went from horrible bubbles to perfect surface!
Happy to help! I was considering photo Flo as an option to try, as we used it back in my FX days to make fake blood flow well. Windex is definitely a cheaper option :)
ALWAYS a fun watch, and I always learn something new!
Thanks Ted!
Wooohoo, new episode.!
Thanks for watching!
Your meticulous work and record keeping is exemplary.
Thank you!
I suggest for removing bubbles from plaster casts and silicone cast, a 3ft x 3ft x 1ft vacuum chamber. It will suck all the bubbles to the surface, the plaster and silicone might also set harder. no more vibrating table. You will need to get a vacuum pump. I also use it for fiberglass resin vacuum forming and hot plastic sheet vacuum forming.
a vacuum chamber is on the studio build list - I just need to save up for one that can pull a high enough vacuum for the silicone I use.
I keep coming back to this episode because of the wealth of information it contains. I need to get a plaster trap. And, I also need to get better at working with plaster.
I need to change my plaster trap! 😅
Hurray new episode! I'm so glad you guys are feeling better.
Me too! Hopefully we’re up to full strength soon
Dude i think you deserve more than 8k sub.
Thank you! I am super happy with the channel growth. Two years ago I had only 500 - I hope the trend continues ✨🤞✨
Thursday, Tuesday, both start with a T, same thing. Love this series! Thanks for sharing so much of your skill and technique!
I figured Thursday was close enough 😂
Thank you for watching!
Perfect timing! I’ve been struggling with bubbles in my molds so I will try these tips!! Great video as always
You got this! Best of luck in your bubble battle!
You’re a hero and an inspiration. Thanks for being so generous with your expertise!
Thank you so much!
I don’t even make molds but your videos are always fun to watch 👀
Thank you!
Been waiting for a new video. :) Happy to have you back and even more delighted that you have been so willing to share your techniques. Thank you!
Thank you for your patience!
Me too!
Amazing Episode!!!
Thank you!
i love you tiki, your work is amazing! cheers from argentina!
Thank you!!
Always thrilled when I get that notification. Even if it is on a Thursday. ;)
Better very late than never 😅
Ok, but why is one turned the other way... 😭😭 28:52 - Joking... mostly. Thanks for another great video. Really makes me wish I had the space to try this out 😁
😂 - thanks for watching!
Thiki Thechnical Thursday!
great video! I've been incredibly curious on how your make your artist mark into the bottom of your mold! Can you share how you do it?
Thank you! I keep that part of my process a mystery. There are lots of ways to do it (I’ve done many techniques through the years)
I love the dutch angle shots heh
Thanks! It’s a great way to get everything important into frame
Your videos are fantastic!
Thank you so much!
Thank you for sharing so generously! I'm curious why you keep the silicon molds in the wooden frames beyond the process of making them? Do you store them like this? Sorry if you already shared and I missed it. Thanks!
Good question! The wood case keeps the silicone from warping due to the weight of the plaster when casting. I keep the silicone nested in its frame when I use and store the molds.
Me again!
Your video on making the silicone masters inspired me to try it and it was a wildly successful endeavor -- thanks to you and technical Tuesday! Now I need to know about your "Windex Mix" (which, given the nerves I was feeling casting that expensive silicone, ought to be a euphemism for "Whiskey -- make it a double!"): So what exactly is your "Windex Mix"?
Congratulations on the mold success!! For the windex mix, I go between a 50/50 windex to water mix, up to a 2/3 windex 1/3 water mix. It’s a small container so there is a wide margin of error 😄
@@vantikistudio fantastic -- thanks so much! I got my USG #1 plaster and I've filled my masters to find they take exactly 3qts of water per pair. So, as soon as my squirrel mixer comes in, I'll be trying your 3qts + 9lbs mixture and see what happens next!
this is so cool, i wish i could do something like this
Thank you!
Have you always used Pottery Plaster No 1 for mold making? How would you compare it to plaster of paris? Price difference is not huge either.
Avoid plaster of Paris for molds! It may be fine for casting - but you will get MUCH better and repeatable results with the Pottery plaster.
I’m going back to rewatch this video and I have a question: why spritz the silicone molds with water/windex and not just isopropyl alcohol? I heard you shouldn’t use 100% windex because it may weaken the plaster. Wouldn’t the alcohol have the same effect?
Great question! I did a bunch of tests in the studio trying various mixtures of water and alcohol, water and windex, and even some other things folks suggested like Jet-Dry rinse aid. In the end for me a mix of water and windex gave the best surface, and it doesn’t seem to degrade the plaster in any way. I suspect windex is mostly made of water and alcohol 😄
@@vantikistudio thank you!
Is there any problem with putting a wooden bottom on the box casing to support the silicone loaded with the plaster when you move it? I am planning on making some larger pieces and I’m nervous about the silicone folding out of the casing as I move it. Also I could put a drawing of the mold shape on the base to help orient it all.
So, is it problematic overkill costing more, or a good idea?
Not a problem at all! Hammerly Ceramics on Instagram 3D prints his silicone enclosure, and puts a base on some of them. I’ve seen other artists use a sheet of acrylic as a base. Why don’t I do it? Cost for the wood, concern about warping, and time. The mold boxes work well for me without a bottom. When moving large molds off the vibrating table, I just fill them 2/3 full, then move them off the table. Haven’t had any issues (well, aside from the fact that they are HEAVY)
My apologies: You answered my Windex Mix question in the video and I somehow missed it -- sorry I wasted your time. Something I didn't miss but want to confirm: Did you say the plaster molds need to be left to dry out for weeks before you use them? How many weeks? Thanks again!
the molds need to dry completely before use - and that time can vary greatly depending on the size of the mold and the humidity of the environment. Airflow helps - put the mold under a fan and check it daily. When it no longer feels cool to the touch it is ready to go!
First let me say, I think you’re a wonderful teacher!!! Your videos are the best. Thank you. Now if you could just drop by my shop and help me organize it I would greatly appreciate it. 😊
😄 funny you should say that, my studio is a MESS right now! We’ve been going full steam since August and I haven’t had time to clean. We’ve scheduled a deep clean week in October and I CANT WAIT! 😂
How do you clean the tools without a plumbing nightmare?
I have a plaster trap in the sink. It captures anything heavy (like glaze, plaster, and clay) and keeps it out of the pipes
11lb 11oz = 5.3KG (1KG=1L of water)
Thanks! I always mean to put metric conversions up, and always run out of time 😅
Hey Henrik,
Do you slipcast using the original plaster mold that you used to make the silicone mold? Or do you just use the molds that you make from the silicone mother molds?
I ask because I’m having trouble with my plaster master as it was covered in mold soap and now it’s not absorbing the slip properly. Is there a way to remove the soft soap without damaging the plaster mold?
I rarely cast with my master plaster mold - but vinegar is great for removing mold soap if you do want to cast with it.
Ahhhhh, thank you so much, appreciate your help 🙏🏼
Pardon my ignorance but why not just make a a negative silicone mold of your original piece and slip cast in that? Seems like if that would cause issues then so would this ! But I've mever worked with slip or plaster.
If it's because you use certain clays then there's some that can be used with tin cure and some that can be used with platinum cure I'm pretty sure
The catch is you can only cast slip in plaster molds - believe me I’d use silicone molds for everything if I could! Here is an explanation of why plaster makes slipcasting possible:
ua-cam.com/video/2tU6sBD9r_I/v-deo.htmlsi=ZLn-UmH0rLDX_SS8
is it possible to use aluminum as mold? can we just machine an aluminum block and use it?
it depends on what stage of the process you are talking about. If you are planning on slip casting, you can make you master mold out of aluminum insured of silicone. As long as it has no undercuts or steep angles and you release it well, I suppose you ould then cast you plaster molds from the aluminum mold, and then slipcast your parts in the plaster mold. you need a plaster mold for slip casting to work.
ua-cam.com/video/2tU6sBD9r_I/v-deo.html
18:55 What is a spray spray?
It’s alcohol to break the surface bubbles
what is the name of those buckets? they look safer for dusty materials
They are great. Standard 5 gallon buckets from a home improvement store, and I put these airtight lids on the tops:
amzn.to/3ZlDbtu
@@vantikistudio I went to investigate, the lid it's called "gamma seal",... at least here in Mexico, thanks for the tip
I'm confused about how the lettering ends up in the bottom of the mold. When I watched the mold making video it seemed like the bottom of the mug model was flat.
good eye! That is a part of the process I like to keep a mystery. There are lots of ways to do it, and I've used many different techniques through the years.
where do you get your plaster?
I get it from my local ceramics supply shop: Georgies Ceramics
Can you go over how you do your logo in the base ? .. how do you add it after you do the casting and before the silicone ? its not there after the initial plaster cast but is now .. what titki magic did you use ?
That is the one step I like to keep a mystery. There are lots of ways to do it, and I’ve used various methods through the years.
Van i wonder why do you use a mask? is this toxic? what are safest practices on this? thank you
Any dust can be bad for your lungs, and gypsum (plaster) is a very fine dust. I like to wear a respirator any time I mix plaster and handle plaster in its dry powder form
Thank you!! aprecciate it@@vantikistudio
..put the mold on subwoofer and play some freaking techno.. no bobbles no nobody will occur.
😂