Hi guys. I could of improved this further by vacuum bagging the part. But I wanted to show you what can be achieved with just a brush and a pair of gloves!
i think if you turned the second sheet 45degrees before laying it as to crosshatch and get the absolute strength out of them. personally on my cleaning strokes i use a brand new bursh thats been washes a couple times prior
reallly glad you did'nt!i think i might speak for a few people here.when you don't have a clue,and you just want to get a start,this simple,straightforward easy to follow clip has given me the confidence to give it a go now.thanks a lot mate
When I started working with high performance composites 30 years ago information was hard to come by. One composites related message board, I think. There was no epoxy compatable gelcoat, infusion wasnt a thing and prepreg was rare and expensive. I recall one of the board members shared that dusting Super 77 on dry fabric gave it similar handling characteristics to prepreg. With that, a well thought out process and several rounds of clear, sand, clear sand a quality part was achievable. Composites are still process driven and labor intensive as hell but having channels like this and application specific materials has removed most of the trial and error and associated pain and suffering.
Hey Bill, that’s an awesome tip to dust the fabric with spray adhesive. I’m curious how this effects the saturation of the carbon and if it contaminates the epoxy? Thanks!
@@Russell_and_Rosko I never noticed a negative effect on the Cure. If there was some residue it would just polish off. A little bit goes a long way. I would spray it in the air and let it fall on the fabric. Once it dries and most of the tack is gone it can also help hold the fabric to the mold surface assuming you're not using PVA. Although I haven't seen it I'll bet there's a product out there specifically for this now
From monday i start a job with zero knowledge in company that is doing exactly this kind of stuff so it is helpfull for me to "get in picture" . Thank you for sharing.
Damn how’s you get hired, I barely get answers from even companies and industry’s I do no about and Tailored resumes for. Beats working at a fast food joint to pay for college and living expenses lol, not doable.
Great video, I like when you used the old thumb guide. I do it all the time. Yeah epoxy resin is so self-leveling. Even with a hand lay up and a paint brush, you get that great finish.
Very interesting and really satisfying to watch the finished product, given how simple the whole process was. Thanks for sharing with us! You just overloaded me with ideas. :) Subscribed.
Simple and objective, straight to the point, for those just starting out his tutorials are the best in the field of carbon fiber lamination. How many layers would you recommend to produce a robust knife sheath? Thanks
Nice great video, been wanting to do some small trim pieces similar in size to what u are working with but didn't want to go threw the bag process. Glad I stumbled on to this . Think this way will work just fine 4 me. Thanks
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! THAT IS SO SIMPLE AND BASIC!!!! I CAN DO THAT!!! I THOUGHT THERE WAS MORE TO IT!!! I CAN HAVE FUN WITH THIS!!!!!! GREAT VIDEO AND A GREAT EDUCATION. THANKS FOR SHARING I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!! I CAN'T WAIT TO MAKE MY OWN PARTS!!!!!!
To minimize pin holes (not that I saw any) you can use a hair dryer or heat gun on a low setting after you apply the 1st coat of resin to the mold, that way the viscosity is lowered and the air bubbles will rise to the surface.
I could be wrong but I think because he used a gel coat first this reduced the chance of pinholes as there is already a clear barrier before the epoxy. Most times I see pinholes when carbon and epoxy is added direct to mould with no gel coat
Being polyester based I don't think it's gonna work. Polyester materials in general will burn out pretty easy . You can use that method on any epoxy of course.
If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball. If you can make a mold/form, you can handle carbon fiber. An accurate form for shaping your piece can take longer then laying the fiber. Vacuum or pressurized carbon is stronger and lighter but the "wet & lay" method produces pieces perfectly acceptable for most uses.
To those of us without vacuum bagging capability this is hugely inspiring. Can carbon-foam-carbon or carbon-composite-carbon panels be produced without having to vacuum bag them? Thank you.
Nice work. Question though in regards to the mold. Could you by chance make a video on how you designed on constructed the mold? For instance, I am thinking of making a carbon part for my motorcycle gauges but I can't figure out how to go about making a mold or plug. Thanks in advance.
@@MotoModi Thanks, the moulds can be made exactly the same as my prepreg mould making videos. Only difference being the mould will not need to be cured to a high temperature.
@@CarbonWorkshops I used to help make shells out of fiberglass, Pieces of wood,Glue, some white thic flxible pieces and few more items. Can't wait to see modern ways or new material used. interesting stuff
Making the mold is the hard part and that was omitted. I wonder how strong that corner will be given that both plies were cut in the corner. An overlap would have been much stronger.
Ah, you commented about vacuum bagging, gotcha. Great vid so many thanks for sharing. I wondered if you could take a small amateur drone and make a larger carbon fibre shell with larger motors and props and just install the small drone electronics. Would it work?
i am wondering if a mold could be made from kydex.Kydex is what many pistol holsters are made from and i have made several using the pistol itself as a mold.it can be heated in the kitchen oven and then formed into most any shape needed. As it cools it hardens.Any corrections needed can be made with a heat gun.
Did the twill weave fabric conform to the tree way corner on its own, or did you have to cut the carbon fibre to get the fabric to go into the corner? Thanks! @CarbonWorkshops
If I want to make some out of carbon and my part I’m making it from is fiberglass what do I need to put on it to make it easier to get the carbon off it once it dries
Is it heat resistant? I'm planning to apply this on the side of my bike's fairings near the exhaust and the engines. I wonder if the resin could resist an I4 engine heat.
Got to admit two layers that looked good, and no air bubbles, was the room warm (hair dryer) or did you degas or burn off bubbles. Heck just smoothing it out with gloves left a good finish and removed excess epoxy. Good to see you over sized the mold so you could cut off excess the corner looked a bit niggly but the rubber gloves and damping down with brush worked well.
@@bigduphusaj162Why u laughing? I was able to make a couple pieces with this video, it’s pretty straight forward. Maybe your brain is too small so you weren’t able to?
Which other epoxys would work for this im trying to find one shipping from the United States since the shipping from the UK is a decent percentage of the price of the epoxy.
Hola...una pregunta...es necesario el gelcoat al inicio?si uso este gelcoat puedo evitar q tenga agujeros de alfiler en mi pieza? Estoy haciendo unas piezas de moto pero unas me quedaron con hoyitos
@@CarbonWorkshops because I want to make motorcycle and car parts (so already existing parts) from Carbon and when I use the kit for fiberglass it costs about 140€ for every two molds, so that is for all parts extremely expensive. Is there a cheaper way?
I've never messed with carbon fiber. I really want to make some climbing sticks. How would I go about making a square tubing? Would I have to find some thin walled aluminum and just leave it inside the carbon, or is there a way to get it out?
Iv not done this before, perhaps il try... But I would think how ever you make it they would need to be cured under vacuum to add strength for climbing use.
Thanks for the great video, I bought epoxy resin, one of them has writing A it, and the other one has writing B it, which oneis GC 50? And I have bought 200 ml of each, how much of each should I mix together?
A blow torch will help thin the resin and pop small bubbles. But you will still need go pay attention to the brush stippling and rubbing the resin out.
What kind of color dye would you use if you wanted it to have a tint to it. Looking to have a blue color tint to the carbon fiber that I'm using. If you have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks
Je vois que vous cirez le moule avant de poser le gelcoat. Quand je fais la meme choses, le gelcoat n'adhère pas au moule, il fait des flaques et non une couche uniforme. Auriez-vous une idée?
Can I ask, why did you apply gelcoat and then epoxy? So the surface is evenly covered with no fish eye compare to just epoxy all the way? Wouldnt the gelcoat affect the clarity/gloss? Tks and great video.
@@CarbonWorkshops Nice one. Thank you. Keep up the good videos. It's making me want to actually use my carbon skinning kit I got a couple of years ago.
This might be a dumb question but can prepreg carbon be used to skin parts? Does it need to be vacuumed and baked or can it be used to skin a part, let air dry and then clear coated? Most of the videos I see of prepreg is mostly used to create parts from molds.
Is the black material on the template anything specific to prevent sticking/to make it easier to get of, or can I just use any sort of hard plastic/abs mould?
Can I ask - I am looking to replace a metal part that keeps failing due to fatigue (2mm aluminium 150x50 mm) is this method tending towards the aesthetic rather than strength that is used on F1 cars for instance? It needs a two bends at one end where the weight is carried approximately 20kgs. I've tried steel but that is too rigid and snaps due to work hardening.
Hi, I would say this hand layup method would not be strong enough. You could use the resin infusion process and stack the layers of carbon fibre cloth to make the part as strong as you need.
![DO NOT MAKE CARBON FIBER PARTS AT HOME (Making Charge Pipes) [DIY] with CR-Scan Lizard](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YNWu1-r5HGo/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi guys.
I could of improved this further by vacuum bagging the part. But I wanted to show you what can be achieved with just a brush and a pair of gloves!
i think if you turned the second sheet 45degrees before laying it as to crosshatch and get the absolute strength out of them. personally on my cleaning strokes i use a brand new bursh thats been washes a couple times prior
@@james96744 I did lay the carbon sheets in opposite directions.
@@CarbonWorkshops oh my bad not gonna lie ive been smoking a bit today lol honestly seemed like you just layed one right over without crossections
reallly glad you did'nt!i think i might speak for a few people here.when you don't have a clue,and you just want to get a start,this simple,straightforward easy to follow clip has given me the confidence to give it a go now.thanks a lot mate
@@glennvage do u no if this stuff is buIIet proof? Thanqs man!
When I started working with high performance composites 30 years ago information was hard to come by. One composites related message board, I think. There was no epoxy compatable gelcoat, infusion wasnt a thing and prepreg was rare and expensive. I recall one of the board members shared that dusting Super 77 on dry fabric gave it similar handling characteristics to prepreg. With that, a well thought out process and several rounds of clear, sand, clear sand a quality part was achievable. Composites are still process driven and labor intensive as hell but having channels like this and application specific materials has removed most of the trial and error and associated pain and suffering.
Thank you 🙌
Hey Bill, that’s an awesome tip to dust the fabric with spray adhesive. I’m curious how this effects the saturation of the carbon and if it contaminates the epoxy? Thanks!
@@Russell_and_Rosko I never noticed a negative effect on the Cure. If there was some residue it would just polish off. A little bit goes a long way. I would spray it in the air and let it fall on the fabric. Once it dries and most of the tack is gone it can also help hold the fabric to the mold surface assuming you're not using PVA. Although I haven't seen it I'll bet there's a product out there specifically for this now
@@billclark5943 I appreciate the feedback!
From monday i start a job with zero knowledge in company that is doing exactly this kind of stuff so it is helpfull for me to "get in picture" . Thank you for sharing.
Good luck!
Hi, How has the job been going?
I wonder the same @@RoryTobias_
Damn how’s you get hired, I barely get answers from even companies and industry’s I do no about and Tailored resumes for. Beats working at a fast food joint to pay for college and living expenses lol, not doable.
Great video, I like when you used the old thumb guide. I do it all the time.
Yeah epoxy resin is so self-leveling. Even with a hand lay up and a paint brush, you get that great finish.
Nice finish looks neat. Even without vacuum bagging no air bubbles visible
Very interesting and really satisfying to watch the finished product, given how simple the whole process was. Thanks for sharing with us! You just overloaded me with ideas. :) Subscribed.
Seems so easy I am going to try and make a front lip
Simple and objective, straight to the point, for those just starting out his tutorials are the best in the field of carbon fiber lamination. How many layers would you recommend to produce a robust knife sheath? Thanks
depends on the type of cloth you using
Nice great video, been wanting to do some small trim pieces similar in size to what u are working with but didn't want to go threw the bag process. Glad I stumbled on to this . Think this way will work just fine 4 me. Thanks
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! THAT IS SO SIMPLE AND BASIC!!!! I CAN DO THAT!!! I THOUGHT THERE WAS MORE TO IT!!! I CAN HAVE FUN WITH THIS!!!!!! GREAT VIDEO AND A GREAT EDUCATION. THANKS FOR SHARING I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!! I CAN'T WAIT TO MAKE MY OWN PARTS!!!!!!
HELP! HELP! HELP! HELP ME! HELP
bot comment
Im a newbie to composites and I'm looking to do a hand lay-up over a face mask with not to many new tools.
This video has helped.
To minimize pin holes (not that I saw any) you can use a hair dryer or heat gun on a low setting after you apply the 1st coat of resin to the mold, that way the viscosity is lowered and the air bubbles will rise to the surface.
Thank you. Can i ask after puting first layer of carbon fiber, do you need also to heat gun?
@@elijahjornadal274 You can, but it's not necessary for a pin hole free finish. Just be careful not to get the resin too hot.
I could be wrong but I think because he used a gel coat first this reduced the chance of pinholes as there is already a clear barrier before the epoxy. Most times I see pinholes when carbon and epoxy is added direct to mould with no gel coat
Being polyester based I don't think it's gonna work.
Polyester materials in general will burn out pretty easy .
You can use that method on any epoxy of course.
If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball.
If you can make a mold/form, you can handle carbon fiber. An accurate form for shaping your piece can take longer then laying the fiber. Vacuum or pressurized carbon is stronger and lighter but the "wet & lay" method produces pieces perfectly acceptable for most uses.
To those of us without vacuum bagging capability this is hugely inspiring.
Can carbon-foam-carbon or carbon-composite-carbon panels be produced without having to vacuum bag them?
Thank you.
Nice work. Question though in regards to the mold. Could you by chance make a video on how you designed on constructed the mold? For instance, I am thinking of making a carbon part for my motorcycle gauges but I can't figure out how to go about making a mold or plug. Thanks in advance.
2 new mould videos in the making. One easy and one a little tricky 😎
Yes very nice work! Please show us how you made the mold and what materials are needed to make the mold
@@MotoModi Thanks, the moulds can be made exactly the same as my prepreg mould making videos. Only difference being the mould will not need to be cured to a high temperature.
@@CarbonWorkshops I used to help make shells out of fiberglass, Pieces of wood,Glue, some white thic flxible pieces and few more items. Can't wait to see modern ways or new material used. interesting stuff
How long do we have to wait after applying the GC50 gelcoat till the application of the first layer of carbon?
Making the mold is the hard part and that was omitted. I wonder how strong that corner will be given that both plies were cut in the corner. An overlap would have been much stronger.
I really want to make a front lip for my car...this makes me believe I can..
Did you ever do it?
If I wanted to change the end color to let's say midnight blue, would it be best to use blue epoxy coloring, or is there a better way of doing it?
Use blue epoxy
Adding a layer of peel ply on top will give you a better epoxy to fiber ratio as it’ll wick out the excess and leave you with a better surface finish.
What is peel ply? And how is it used?
Can this be applied if I have a positive mold as well?
You can also use a vacume and a plastic bag when milding/curing ✌️ helps a bit
Ah, you commented about vacuum bagging, gotcha. Great vid so many thanks for sharing. I wondered if you could take a small amateur drone and make a larger carbon fibre shell with larger motors and props and just install the small drone electronics. Would it work?
hello very helpful video. I just have 2 questions: How did you make your prepress mould? And also, what product did you use at 4:50?
Super video Thank you no idle chat just honest visual instruction thanks again
So I should be able to use the same technique to make CF copies of interior center console pieces correct? Simple flat surfaces.
Excellent piece of work. Thanks for sharing 👋
Source of getting these materials? Links please 🙏😁
Question. Do you use any kind of release agent on the part before you apply the fiber sheet? Great video. Thanks.
I think thays what the epoxy compatable gel coat his for. I believe he left out that epoxy resin is what's used to bond the carbon fiber
Why are you using the conventional polyester gelcoats on the outside instead of just using the clear high gloss resin epoxy?
i am wondering if a mold could be made from kydex.Kydex is what many pistol holsters are made from and i have made several using the pistol itself as a mold.it can be heated in the kitchen oven and then formed into most any shape needed. As it cools it hardens.Any corrections needed can be made with a heat gun.
You could probably do it in 2 pieces and then bond them together the same way you would do a car hood
Do you really need the clear gel coat? Please explain? Why can't the high gloss resin be enough?
I wonder what the R/C ratio is, compared to an infused part ?
Where can I purchase this exact carbonfiber weave, and what are the specs so I can be further educated? Thank you in advance!
Did the twill weave fabric conform to the tree way corner on its own, or did you have to cut the carbon fibre to get the fabric to go into the corner? Thanks! @CarbonWorkshops
cutting fiber you lose the strength. All you have at the cut fiber bit for strength at that point would be the epoxy.
How much does it cost to buy one meter of this fiber please?
awesome thanks, How do you do it with mate finish?
If I want to make some out of carbon and my part I’m making it from is fiberglass what do I need to put on it to make it easier to get the carbon off it once it dries
Hi I have a winglet that doenst fit my fairing how don i use epoxy to full smal gap betwin winglet ( downforce spoiler) and the motorcycle fairing?
Is it heat resistant? I'm planning to apply this on the side of my bike's fairings near the exhaust and the engines.
I wonder if the resin could resist an I4 engine heat.
May I ask sir. What is the name of the compound you wiped to the mold before starting the process
im wondering, how big is that 1000mm sheet, is it 1000mm in width, and 1000mm in length?
UA-cam recommended this video 👍
Got to admit two layers that looked good, and no air bubbles, was the room warm (hair dryer) or did you degas or burn off bubbles. Heck just smoothing it out with gloves left a good finish and removed excess epoxy. Good to see you over sized the mold so you could cut off excess the corner looked a bit niggly but the rubber gloves and damping down with brush worked well.
Thanks, no didn't see gas the resin, no heat gun just a glove and brush 😎
@@CarbonWorkshops what stops it from sticking to the mold ?
Cheers.
@ianbardon8581 amine wax
No oven curing required? This looks really well done!!! Amazing job! I'm not sure where I get those supplies in the US but going to start researching.
Did you ever find a good place to find the supplies? Just starting to go down this rabbit hole
Heard this is how Rush made his submarine😆
Nice video. Simple way of showing how it can be done. Add some voice / comments during work. It's weird when you watch a video without audio ;)
I want to do this with my hood lower grill piece can I do this method with plastic ??
Finally, I found the right video now I can make my very own motorcycle fairings using this technique thank you
😂 good luck with that
@@bigduphusaj162Why u laughing? I was able to make a couple pieces with this video, it’s pretty straight forward. Maybe your brain is too small so you weren’t able to?
Is there a high heat resistant resin that doesnt turn color when exposed to high heat?
Which other epoxys would work for this im trying to find one shipping from the United States since the shipping from the UK is a decent percentage of the price of the epoxy.
Hola...una pregunta...es necesario el gelcoat al inicio?si uso este gelcoat puedo evitar q tenga agujeros de alfiler en mi pieza? Estoy haciendo unas piezas de moto pero unas me quedaron con hoyitos
This is all cool and gravy. But can someone explain to me how this part is going to fit when its smaller than the original?
The mould has been bigger to allow for the part to fit.
@@CarbonWorkshops oh. So you did not put the cloth on the actual part.
I see......making the mold is totally different chapter
I have a question, wouldn‘t the part not fit anymore since it is smaller than the original one? Please help me regarding this matzer
Hi, the mould has be previously made with a 2mm offset to allow for this to fit as a cover. Will make a video for the process soon.
@@CarbonWorkshops because I want to make motorcycle and car parts (so already existing parts) from Carbon and when I use the kit for fiberglass it costs about 140€ for every two molds, so that is for all parts extremely expensive. Is there a cheaper way?
@@CarbonWorkshops any cheap ways?
I've never messed with carbon fiber. I really want to make some climbing sticks. How would I go about making a square tubing? Would I have to find some thin walled aluminum and just leave it inside the carbon, or is there a way to get it out?
Iv not done this before, perhaps il try...
But I would think how ever you make it they would need to be cured under vacuum to add strength for climbing use.
you can get it out easily just use wax
If I were to do this on a mirror cover, how could I go about getting a mold
Would the outcome become a little smaller than the actual product you copy?
If you make the mould direct of the part then yes. But this mould was made with a offset of 2mm to allow for the new carbon fibre cover to fit.
Channel us dope af..In theory could this be done to exterior of entire car??
Do you need to spray a release agent applied on the mould prior adding the GC50 Epoxy Compatible Clear Polyester Gelcoat ?
at 0:21 he applies mold release wax. I use three applications of this. Or chemical release, but that needs 6+ applications.
How many layers would you recommend for exterior car parts? Was thinking of adopting this tutorial for Carbon Fiber fenders on my car
i would say between 7 and 13
Excellent job!
this is awesome..nice n careful job done.
Thanks for the great video, I bought epoxy resin, one of them has writing A it, and the other one has writing B it, which oneis GC 50? And I have bought 200 ml of each, how much of each should I mix together?
read the instructions you fool.
How long it take to dry
Can you use a blow torch to force the airbubbles out like they do in large epoxy resin pours?
A blow torch will help thin the resin and pop small bubbles. But you will still need go pay attention to the brush stippling and rubbing the resin out.
@@CarbonWorkshops thank you ✌️
What wax release are you using
Do you wait for first layer to dry before adding the second?
What kind of color dye would you use if you wanted it to have a tint to it. Looking to have a blue color tint to the carbon fiber that I'm using. If you have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks
Maybe ghost blue mica powder in the resin
Je vois que vous cirez le moule avant de poser le gelcoat. Quand je fais la meme choses, le gelcoat n'adhère pas au moule, il fait des flaques et non une couche uniforme. Auriez-vous une idée?
Can I ask, why did you apply gelcoat and then epoxy? So the surface is evenly covered with no fish eye compare to just epoxy all the way? Wouldnt the gelcoat affect the clarity/gloss? Tks and great video.
The gel coat actualy polishes to a higher gloss than trying to polish the resin. Also provides added UV stability 👍
Where can I buy all the products you used am in need
can i know board that you use to stick those carbon
great video, thanks
can you coat carbon fiber on aluminum handle bar?
That's impressive. How do you treat the edges where you cut though? Do you just leave them exposed or polish them up as well?
Thanks, I just apply some polish to the edges. Some polish with wax in will protect well.
@@CarbonWorkshops Nice one. Thank you. Keep up the good videos. It's making me want to actually use my carbon skinning kit I got a couple of years ago.
@@MrDemondal the resin might be out of date you have in that kit by now.
Is the 2nd layer of fiber cloth really necessary? Or its ok to have 1 layer only? What is the difference?
to make it more durable
Awesome video!
What da hell, I could diy that all this time? Awesome!
Amazing video! What is the small electric saw called?
Dremel
i wanted to try this but for my honda s2000 hoood, i saw the website they do not sell a big sheet of carbon fiber any ideas where i can buy it?
This might be a dumb question but can prepreg carbon be used to skin parts? Does it need to be vacuumed and baked or can it be used to skin a part, let air dry and then clear coated? Most of the videos I see of prepreg is mostly used to create parts from molds.
Unfortunately not. It does need to be cured under vacuum at very high temperatures (120deg c)
Amazing work! thanks for sharing! :)
This might be a dumb question,but why don’t guys trim off the excess carbon before its dry? Shouldn’t that speed up the process?
Because triming off the excess when only half cured will pull the weave and damage the resin causing the edges to look white and frayed.
Where come from the mold ?
But is it any better than plastic with a carbon-fiber finish?
why use epoxy compatible polyester gelcoat on the face of the mould? and them applying the first layer
thanks
Nice fast drying gel coat, polishes well after and UV resistant
Wow! That was nice. I wish I had talent like that. Something’s you order on line … 2 years later all fading etc..
thats what this will do as its junk polyester resin not real epoxy. For UV resistance add a clear coat but make sure its 2k
Can you apply these same methods on making a car fender or bonnet?
The larger the part the more difficult it be to get it to look nice. It will be hard to remove all air bubbles.
Where can I order material here Asia for that
Do you think it’ll be a bad idea or good if I did this to both of my fenders to make them carbon fiber w epoxy ?
Could work well, if it's large then infusion probably the way to go.
Do you have a video on making the mold?
Yes, lots of mould videos
Is the black material on the template anything specific to prevent sticking/to make it easier to get of, or can I just use any sort of hard plastic/abs mould?
The black is a polished gel coat. You can use anything really aslong is it's hard and glossy and release agent / wax applied correctly.
I would love to make my own parts as a hobby
Give it a go!
Great video. Now its time to tackle some auto parts.
Was there a release agent on that mould before you laid down the Gel coat?
Yes, mould release wax
Awesome man! New subscriber ✌🏻
Can I ask - I am looking to replace a metal part that keeps failing due to fatigue (2mm aluminium 150x50 mm) is this method tending towards the aesthetic rather than strength that is used on F1 cars for instance? It needs a two bends at one end where the weight is carried approximately 20kgs. I've tried steel but that is too rigid and snaps due to work hardening.
Hi, I would say this hand layup method would not be strong enough. You could use the resin infusion process and stack the layers of carbon fibre cloth to make the part as strong as you need.
@@CarbonWorkshops thanks - off to look up the infusion process.
what do you put in the mould kind of thing
How do You avoid to get glued up to the part ?
That's my concern 🤔
I see now, he was too quick, it's wax.
Where are you located?
I want to ask you about making carbon fiber hood?