first of all, thanks for all the voron information and inspiration you provide on this channel! It makes it alot easier into that hobby when you build one for the first time In order for the Rapido UHF to fit a volcano you need to ditch the given adapter, did you just leave it as is or do you use some sort of copper sleeve or nuts for increased heat transfer?
I have several Rapido UHF Plus V1 hotends. They can be used with a standard length V6 nozzle and a shorter silicone sock, in which case they function as a Rapido HF, or you can replace the standard length V6 nozzle with a volcano length V6 nozzle and use the included 10 mm nut adapter and longer silicone sock. This increases the overall length of the hotend and extends the melt zone to increase flow. Because the hotend is now longer/taller, you will likely need different toolhead parts to account for this change. I do not own a Rapido V2 yet, so I can't speak to how it works differently, if at all.
@@oldguymeltsplastic But you could also use a volcano cht nozzle instead of a v6 cht with the adapter, right? I just got a Rapido V2 UHF+ and planing to do the mentioned setup the V1 and V2 have identical dimensions, the difference is that the V2 has a flat ceramic heater instead of cylidrical and both the thermistor and heater can be replaced if needed
@@swisshoumi Unsure. Of you don't have the adapter, you will be at the right length, but you might have too much nozzle thread sticking out of the heater.
Thank You for the video and all of the information. You had mentioned that you would share your printer.cfg. I don't have a 2.4 but I would love to just look through your printer.cfg. I just like to browse through them to learn more about klipper configs and fan settings, etc.
Is there any difference on the print settings, advanced, then flow, bridge flow ratio? Ellis had it at 85 yours shows 0.85. Does it interpret those as the same? Time: 46:41
Ellis' SuperSlicer profiles has it at 85, because SuperSlicer expects an integer that represents a percentage value, so that works out to 85%. PrusaSlicer expects a decimal value, so 0.85 there also represents 85%.
I totally agree with the good enought principal as it probably take 10 % of your time to get to 90 % of "almost perfect" and woudl probalbly a 90 % effort to get close to 100%
I've just realized for the past year I've had my gear ratio wrong 🤣😂.... I had it set to 50:17 instead of 50:10 🙃 The rotation distance makes up for it...I guess.... but that explains why my rotation distance is: 6.750972151533265 and not 22.something
I tried all of those settings and only shaved off 3 minutes .... ha ha ha ha took me longer to change the settings than the benefits that were gained. :(
You don't need to apologize to anyone. They're on their couches watching for free.
Thanks for your support!
Thanks for this video. I definitely enjoy these videos and talking to you on discord
Thanks! I love sharing information and being helpful, which has probably helped me over 30 years in software technical support.
thank you, great presentation skills. Now I can tune my printer
Glad to help!
first of all, thanks for all the voron information and inspiration you provide on this channel!
It makes it alot easier into that hobby when you build one for the first time
In order for the Rapido UHF to fit a volcano you need to ditch the given adapter, did you just leave it as is or do you use some sort of copper sleeve or nuts for increased heat transfer?
I have several Rapido UHF Plus V1 hotends. They can be used with a standard length V6 nozzle and a shorter silicone sock, in which case they function as a Rapido HF, or you can replace the standard length V6 nozzle with a volcano length V6 nozzle and use the included 10 mm nut adapter and longer silicone sock. This increases the overall length of the hotend and extends the melt zone to increase flow. Because the hotend is now longer/taller, you will likely need different toolhead parts to account for this change.
I do not own a Rapido V2 yet, so I can't speak to how it works differently, if at all.
@@oldguymeltsplastic But you could also use a volcano cht nozzle instead of a v6 cht with the adapter, right?
I just got a Rapido V2 UHF+ and planing to do the mentioned setup
the V1 and V2 have identical dimensions, the difference is that the V2 has a flat ceramic heater instead of cylidrical and both the thermistor and heater can be replaced if needed
@@swisshoumi Unsure. Of you don't have the adapter, you will be at the right length, but you might have too much nozzle thread sticking out of the heater.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! ;-)
Thank you, I learned a lot.
Glad to hear it!
Nice information! Perhaps you could post your full printer.cfg and associated external .cfg? Thank you!
I need to set up an automated backup of my config to GitHub. I will get to that soon.
Thank You for the video and all of the information. You had mentioned that you would share your printer.cfg. I don't have a 2.4 but I would love to just look through your printer.cfg. I just like to browse through them to learn more about klipper configs and fan settings, etc.
You can find them on my GitHub: github.com/OldGuyMeltsPlastic
Is there any difference on the print settings, advanced, then flow, bridge flow ratio? Ellis had it at 85 yours shows 0.85. Does it interpret those as the same? Time: 46:41
Ellis' SuperSlicer profiles has it at 85, because SuperSlicer expects an integer that represents a percentage value, so that works out to 85%. PrusaSlicer expects a decimal value, so 0.85 there also represents 85%.
I totally agree with the good enought principal as it probably take 10 % of your time to get to 90 % of "almost perfect" and woudl probalbly a 90 % effort to get close to 100%
For some decorative parts or gifts, I might spend a bit more time tuning, but for functional parts, I can live with good enough.
I've just realized for the past year I've had my gear ratio wrong 🤣😂.... I had it set to 50:17 instead of 50:10 🙃
The rotation distance makes up for it...I guess.... but that explains why my rotation distance is: 6.750972151533265 and not 22.something
I have made similar mistakes when switching extruders. Welcome to the club!
I tried all of those settings and only shaved off 3 minutes .... ha ha ha ha took me longer to change the settings than the benefits that were gained. :(
Now print that same job 100 times, and you've saved 5 hours. Depends on what you print, and the machine you're printing it on.
*promo sm* 🙈
Sorry, I don't understand...