25 кулера не хватает, только если тефлоновый хотенд меняют на титановый или биометалл, но в оригинальном корпусе хватает места для еще одного 25 кулера справа на радиатор, но раз уже поставили 40 вертушку, то и с боков нужно было добавить 50х15 улитки для обдува пластика, если автор видео не будет против вот пример: ua-cam.com/video/242eyTQF51Y/v-deo.html
@@3dprintingnerd12 Im using PETG one holding my 4010 noctua and its been holding without issues. Im also going to upgrade to a 4020 fan instead. As long as the fan can keep it cool its should be fine.
@@andresquintero9855 Don't use noctuas for hotend cooling....... Use a delta. Way better, less expensive, and will last you MUCH LONGER. Noctuas have low static pressures which is very bad! Get the appropriate delta fans.
@@andresquintero9855 And PETG creeps a lot @reddotgeek. @reddotgeek you clearly have no clue on anything that you are doing, I highly suggest that you take the video down. You are misleading countless people.
I suppose you mean "hot end" - Yes, I have a ceramic hot end just sitting on the shelf. Just want to make sure the fans don't fail catastrophically first...
@@reddotgeek yes hotend I forgot what it's called lol, 3d and tee has upgraded fans but he didn't provide any step by step tutorial.. I'm not even sure what kind of fans I'm supposed to get
Yes, provided you print a fan mount that can fit. BTW, I have swapped back to a "still noisy but quieter" 2510. The Creality Unicorn Quick Swap hotend fits nicely without any modifications required.
But power going to fan is 24v. If you use 12v fan, its will be working with overvolting and double its rotate speed. If you want slower, you must use 36v or more fan.
Cleaning won't do anything, it's a problem with the design. I ended up changing to a quieter 2510 fan in the end... Still noisy, but not as bad as the stock Creality.
If you replaced your bed supports with silicone spacers, could you not run “screw_tilt_adjust” for the bed screws? Yes you’d have to pull the bed plate off but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work if setup correctly.
NOOOOOOOO!!!!!! DONT USE A 4010 THERE!!!!! 4010 fans have a huge dead zone behind them which is HORRIBLE for hotend cooling. There is a reason as to why they used a 2510 fan.
Hi, is there a better video or forum where everything is written correctly how to do it safely and which parts to use? I wanted to upgrade my SE but I saw your comments and I'm concerned now.
Hi, is there a better video or forum where everything is written correctly how to do it safely and which parts to use? I wanted to upgrade my SE but I saw your comments and I'm concerned now.
@@slimienovin the end you really just want to prevent heat creep from causing problems in your cold zone, aka the heatsink. You can do your own testing. If you can set the printer at the maximum nozzle temperature for hours while maintaining heatsink temps similar or lower than with the stock fan for hours, you should be fine. This person certainly ain't gonna break into your house and scream at you for using something they don't approve of.
NOOOOO! It's a hotend fan. Don't get shitty creality fans or noctuas, none of them are suited for this application! Get a good one. Ideally you want an orion, sunon or delta fan, and NEVER from aliexpress! Always from Digikey or Mouser electronics. An alternative is Gdstime, which you can get from aliexpress, but not as good as the deltas.
3:15 .. so .. you are soldering wires together, just to .. solder them again with that shrink tube with build-in soldering-ring?! XD
It's called "fail safe". Miss the soldering spot, it's still a heat shrink.
@@reddotgeek NO! SOLDER COLD FLOWS. It is a fire hazard! You never crimp something on the solder!
Tnks my friend. Solvedmy problem. God bless u.
Glad to hear that
25 кулера не хватает, только если тефлоновый хотенд меняют на титановый или биометалл, но в оригинальном корпусе хватает места для еще одного 25 кулера справа на радиатор, но раз уже поставили 40 вертушку, то и с боков нужно было добавить 50х15 улитки для обдува пластика, если автор видео не будет против вот пример: ua-cam.com/video/242eyTQF51Y/v-deo.html
I hope you printed that in a high temp material sitting right by the hotend during prints overtime will warp down
Yep, it's PETG. Time will tell if it holds.
@@reddotgeeki printed one I petg and it didn't hold good luck😂
@@3dprintingnerd12 Im using PETG one holding my 4010 noctua and its been holding without issues. Im also going to upgrade to a 4020 fan instead. As long as the fan can keep it cool its should be fine.
@@andresquintero9855 Don't use noctuas for hotend cooling....... Use a delta. Way better, less expensive, and will last you MUCH LONGER. Noctuas have low static pressures which is very bad! Get the appropriate delta fans.
@@andresquintero9855 And PETG creeps a lot @reddotgeek.
@reddotgeek you clearly have no clue on anything that you are doing, I highly suggest that you take the video down. You are misleading countless people.
Can you also make a video upgrading the fan
I suppose you mean "hot end" - Yes, I have a ceramic hot end just sitting on the shelf. Just want to make sure the fans don't fail catastrophically first...
@@reddotgeek yes hotend I forgot what it's called lol, 3d and tee has upgraded fans but he didn't provide any step by step tutorial.. I'm not even sure what kind of fans I'm supposed to get
Its the same if I use a 4020 fan? Thanks for your videos
Yes, provided you print a fan mount that can fit. BTW, I have swapped back to a "still noisy but quieter" 2510. The Creality Unicorn Quick Swap hotend fits nicely without any modifications required.
DO NOT SOLDER AND THEN CRIMP. It causes fires. Solder cold flows under pressure.
Don't use a 24v fan, itll be just as loud. Make sure you get a 12v
But power going to fan is 24v. If you use 12v fan, its will be working with overvolting and double its rotate speed. If you want slower, you must use 36v or more fan.
Nice video bro!! But the music its amazing!!!! Upload the file in mp3
Do you think we could get on a better cr touch sensor?
Is there no option to clean the fan to make it quiet again?
Cleaning won't do anything, it's a problem with the design. I ended up changing to a quieter 2510 fan in the end... Still noisy, but not as bad as the stock Creality.
Lovely idea
Thank you! Cheers!
@@cheetahkid I suggest that you don't follow this guide at all. Instead refer to my video debunking this shitty one.
Hey Heads up Some people have seizures so please be mindful of flashing lights
If you replaced your bed supports with silicone spacers, could you not run “screw_tilt_adjust” for the bed screws? Yes you’d have to pull the bed plate off but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work if setup correctly.
NOOOOOOOO!!!!!! DONT USE A 4010 THERE!!!!!
4010 fans have a huge dead zone behind them which is HORRIBLE for hotend cooling. There is a reason as to why they used a 2510 fan.
Hi, is there a better video or forum where everything is written correctly how to do it safely and which parts to use? I wanted to upgrade my SE but I saw your comments and I'm concerned now.
Hi, is there a better video or forum where everything is written correctly how to do it safely and which parts to use? I wanted to upgrade my SE but I saw your comments and I'm concerned now.
@@slimienovin the end you really just want to prevent heat creep from causing problems in your cold zone, aka the heatsink.
You can do your own testing. If you can set the printer at the maximum nozzle temperature for hours while maintaining heatsink temps similar or lower than with the stock fan for hours, you should be fine.
This person certainly ain't gonna break into your house and scream at you for using something they don't approve of.
NOOOOO! It's a hotend fan. Don't get shitty creality fans or noctuas, none of them are suited for this application! Get a good one. Ideally you want an orion, sunon or delta fan, and NEVER from aliexpress! Always from Digikey or Mouser electronics. An alternative is Gdstime, which you can get from aliexpress, but not as good as the deltas.
There are so many things wrong with this video. Please don't refer to this.