PLEASE NOTE: A viewer just informed me that the hole above the blade was for cutting bolts. I wish I had included this in the video but I did not know. THANKS DAVE!!! I tested the hole and it did not work well. The sleeve in the hole was not hardened so the cutting action is not great. Based on this new information the new rating is 7.5. Part-2 will include a fix for this problem. Thanks for watching!
Gday, I’ve got the shear that my grandfather made many years ago and it extremely handy to have in the workshop, I think you’ll find you’ll use this more then I think, thanks for sharing, cheers
I have the 12" version and it does cut OK, including rods (in the hole). I added a 2" angle to the LHS with a bar clamp to hold everthing in place. Perhaps you could measure the blade clearance so we know the correct set up. My blades are both ground at 90*.
The one I got, has a hole were you can put round stock ind for cutting, so you don't mess up the blade for sheet metal cutting. But yours looking great too 👍
The blade seems to handle bolts ok but mine also has the hole. I didn't realize this until another viewer informed me. Oddly, the hole did not work well, the edge of the sleeve that is in the hole is not hardened. I wish I had included this in my video.
Thanks! 👍 I think my rating was a little high but its still a good value. After making the video I realized it had a hole in the blade for cutting bar but the hole that aligned with this hole (in the frame) had a soft steel bushing. It needs to be hardened.
I had wanted something like that, but as you said, where am I going to put this thing? So I went with a plasma cutter instead. Thanks as always for the video!
I haven't made a video in a while either. Cought that bug worked seven days a week May and part of june. I think I bought that same shear twenty years ago. I think its great. I mounted it on a 2"×6" and can put it in the floor when needed, lean in on the wall in the corner when not needed. I really like it. 🇨🇦🔩⚒🔧🇨🇦
Hi Winky. Great Show. To cut bolts you are supposed to use the hole in the top blade. Poke it in and it will shear against the blade and the body. Not really meant to cut curves, you really need a Beverly type shear. I bought one cheap here is Australia made in China I think. Regards from Australia.
I agree with Dave. The hole is for cutting bar stock, don't try to ruin the blade with this task. Here in Germany these shears make no sense because for the money you can get a Peddinghaus manual shear same size used in good conditions made in Germany. Greetings from Deutschland.
Dave, I just tried the hole. I totally agree that this is what the hole is for but the insert they put in the hole is not hardened so it doesn't cut well at all. I wish I had included this in the review.
@@WinkysWorkshop Write a comment yourself and PIN it to the start. Anyone reading the comments will see it first. Secondly, make up a bush from drill rod then flame harden it. To do that heat bright red and quench immediately, polish it up bright, then GENTLY wash over it with a soft flame until it starts to colour. STOP at dark straw to blue colour and quench again. What you have done is harden fully then tempered it back to a lower hardness. Fit it into the body hole with some Loctite. Should work fine after that modification. Regards from Australia.
I messed up with the rod cutting. There is a hole in the blade for cutting rod. The problem is, the hole in the frame that lines up with the one in the blade has a sleeve in it that is not hardened. It needs to be. I'm going to put a sleeve in it and make another video.
I made a wooden base for my similar shear which sticks out in front of the shear. The base has two bolts which stick upwards and the shear is held by the two nuts. I normally clamp this base to my low table or bench but for small jobs it can be used on the floor. The base makes the tool far more useful and when not in use the tool sits on the floor with the base beside it leaning against the wall. I also made a rope handle to make the tool easier to pick up and carry (old age). The hole in mine does not cut well either. I put a nut and bolt through it to lock the tool when not in use (no spring).
Since the handle sticks up out of the way anyway, make the handle longer and angle it a bit toward the user rather than straight up and down. Makes the first pull on the handle noticeably easier. Another great episode!
I have a couple of shears, one like this for straight and a throatless for curves. I have an old truck wheel with 2" square tube welded vertically on an old hub. I have mounting plates for the shears and my shrink er stretcher which locate on the top of the 2" box giving me a portable solution for this kit.
Great review Winky. I want one of those now, to force myself to come up with some projects for it! I also need a small brake. Man, I feel for you getting over Covid. One of my best friends lost his life on his motorcycle about a month ago up in Kentucky, and I got exposed to it at his funeral! Mine was more like the "flu lite". Worst part was being stuck at home (in my shop) during quarantine period. I could definitely have used that shear during that few days! Looking forward to your projects using that thing.
@@Bob_Adkins I suspect you are correct, especially if I can fix the rod cutting feature which did not work so well. Part two will cover an improvement in this area. Hopefully!
I have the same shear and use it often. I did make a modification you may consider. I added a small hydraulic jack. I no longer need that long handle nor does it need to be secured to a bench. I can use it on the floor, tailgate, or anywhere I need it. Also, shearing effort is nearly nothing. I'll post a picture later.
No problem 👍 One negative I overlooked in the video was a hole intended for cutting rod or bolts located on the side of the blade. The idea is great but they installed a soft steel sleeve in the hole in the frame that intersects with this hole and it needs to be hardened. I'll post a video of this fix next week.
I have the same shear. I have had it for a few years now. A different brand, but probably made in the same factory. It works okay but now I have a 3 ft stomp shear so I rarely use the 8 inch shear.
Thanks for demonstrating this. I had wondered was how it would work compared to the Beverly style with the small curved blade. One thing I could see doing to it would be to add a strong magnet to the hold down to act as a third hand to help hold the metal while positioning it under the cutter for the really close cuts.
I think the Beverly style shear is a little better but this has a good price. When i made the video I didn't realize it has a rod cutting feature (the hole in the blade). It doesn't work well because the bushing in the frame that mates with this hole isn't hardened. I'll have a video on how to address this next week.
Yes you are correct, I should have done that. The blade looked great until I tried to cut the 1/4". It did not effect the cutting edge but there was signs of scraping on the sides of the blade. Realistically this shear needs to be rated at 1/8" or less. The bar cutting is the part that bothered me. I overlooked the hole in the blade intended for this purpose until after i posted the video. This feature did not work well. I will do a follow up and post the video Friday (one week from this posting). It will include a fix for the rod cutting feature, hopefully.
Not designed for curve cutting. I have a different brand and use it only for sheet metal did you hear me yelling when you brought out that heavy metal. A throat less shear is the one made for cutting curves. Thanks for the review.
Yes the throat less shear would be nice. I agree, this shear is not so good for thick steel and I will only use it for sheet metal. However, it is advertised as being about to cut 1/4" thick steel so I was putting it to the the test. In my opinion it worked well for my purposes but if I was rating it to perform as advertised I should have given it a lower rating. I screw up on the rod test, there were no documents saying how to use the shear. The hole in the side of the blade was for cutting rod although it did not work very well.
These shears work well for the money. There is a 12in model too. A squaring platform on the feed side with hold down clamps would be a nice addition. Oil on the blade helps the cut. Kinda wish they developed one with a ratcheting compound gear action so you could pump the handle 2-3x and make the cut, it would be easier to use and better for control.
Yes... I figured that out after making the video. This part of the shear is not made right. It had a hole in the frame with what should have been fitting with a hardened sleeve. The problem is, it was not hardened plus there is too much clearance between the end of the sleeve and the blade. Otherwise the sheer works well... With that being said, 1/8" thick plate is about all it should be rated for.
i am buying for the purposes of cutting copper brass and bronze, nothing thicker than 2mm so hopefully im in the clear. sad the hole doesn't work well though. thanks for the reply
never put round bar in a shear . you need a die with that size hole in it to cut round bar. bolts are a lot harder. and would chip the cut edge. but sure is nice to have when you need it..
I agree. They claimed to cut round bar in the specs but I overlooked the fact that it has a hole in the middle of the blade for cutting bar (no documentation at all). Still the round hole doesn't work very well. Two problem, there is a bushing in the frame which I assumed was hardened but it was not. The other problem is the end if the bushing is not contacting the blade. I need to do a follow up. People need to be aware of this shortcoming. I'll probably put a hardened sleeve in the existing bushing with a 8mm ID.
Not really made to cut round stock. The round stock tends to make notches (dull) in the blades. Not made to cut curves like a Beverly shear. I mount tools like this to a 3/4” piece of plywood. I have flush inserts in my work bench that I can then mount the plywood to. When done I can easily remove the tool and store on a shelf with other similarly mounted tools. Saves a lot of spaces for tools I don’t use everyday.
Good idea on the plywood, I did something like that with a bench mount bolt cutter. I found out after making the video that there is a hole for cutting rod in the side of the blade.
@@WinkysWorkshop I did see in the second video that you addressed the rod cutter problems. I also liked your mounting system for the arbor press. Good job! I like my plywood mounts, because they sit very stable on my shelves. I have my shear, small belt sander, disk sander, plainer, etc. mounted that way.
The only thing I needed to see was omitted: the cutoff pieces you let fall to the floor, out of camera view. I only needed to see how curved they came off. I am looking to buy this to cut 0.5 mm thick copper sheet into long strips, 5 mm wide. So the thin cutoff is the product. I want the product to be as flat as possible because it will be flat in the final form, and I hope not to need to flatten it a whole lot.
OK now I'm good but I am leaving this comment in because it will be helpful to someone. The curving of what is sheared off can be minimized by repeated short bypass strokes instead of one fell swoop. However, if you really want flat product sheared off on the other side, buy a guillotine shear instead of this pull-back benchtop kind, for perfectly flat product, as-cut. The action of this kind of shear is exactly the same as a pair of scissors: the cutoff will be curved.
PLEASE NOTE: A viewer just informed me that the hole above the blade was for cutting bolts. I wish I had included this in the video but I did not know. THANKS DAVE!!!
I tested the hole and it did not work well. The sleeve in the hole was not hardened so the cutting action is not great. Based on this new information the new rating is 7.5. Part-2 will include a fix for this problem. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the review Winky, keep on keeping on.
Always!
Gday, I’ve got the shear that my grandfather made many years ago and it extremely handy to have in the workshop, I think you’ll find you’ll use this more then I think, thanks for sharing, cheers
I think you're right. Good to hear from you!
I have the 12" version and it does cut OK, including rods (in the hole). I added a 2" angle to the LHS with a bar clamp to hold everthing in place. Perhaps you could measure the blade clearance so we know the correct set up. My blades are both ground at 90*.
The support is a great idea. Thanks.
The one I got, has a hole were you can put round stock ind for cutting, so you don't mess up the blade for sheet metal cutting. But yours looking great too 👍
The blade seems to handle bolts ok but mine also has the hole. I didn't realize this until another viewer informed me. Oddly, the hole did not work well, the edge of the sleeve that is in the hole is not hardened. I wish I had included this in my video.
@@WinkysWorkshop too bad, but it still is a great tool, with a lot of potential 👍 and by the way, you make great videos 😊, thank you
@@henrikhv5084 Thanks
Good review…you put it to the test
Thanks! 👍 I think my rating was a little high but its still a good value. After making the video I realized it had a hole in the blade for cutting bar but the hole that aligned with this hole (in the frame) had a soft steel bushing. It needs to be hardened.
didnt even know they sold these. I to have had an eye out for one for a while, might have to have a closer look at this one.
I found out the hole in the blade was for round stock but it did not cut very good. Next week I'll have a fix for this.
I had wanted something like that, but as you said, where am I going to put this thing? So I went with a plasma cutter instead.
Thanks as always for the video!
Good choice! I'd love to have one. Of course I'd love to have a TIG welder too. All the same problem, space!
Great work, glad you are over the hump with Covid.
Thanks 👍 ME TOO!
I haven't made a video in a while either. Cought that bug worked seven days a week May and part of june. I think I bought that same shear twenty years ago. I think its great. I mounted it on a 2"×6" and can put it in the floor when needed, lean in on the wall in the corner when not needed. I really like it.
🇨🇦🔩⚒🔧🇨🇦
Thats a good approach. Thankls
Hi Winky. Great Show. To cut bolts you are supposed to use the hole in the top blade. Poke it in and it will shear against the blade and the body. Not really meant to cut curves, you really need a Beverly type shear. I bought one cheap here is Australia made in China I think. Regards from Australia.
I agree with Dave. The hole is for cutting bar stock, don't try to ruin the blade with this task.
Here in Germany these shears make no sense because for the money you can get a Peddinghaus manual shear same size used in good conditions made in Germany.
Greetings from Deutschland.
Holly shit! I was wondering what the hole was for. That should be in my video... too bad Vevor didn't communicate this!!! THANKS!
@@uwejacobs6587 I agree with you both.
Dave, I just tried the hole. I totally agree that this is what the hole is for but the insert they put in the hole is not hardened so it doesn't cut well at all. I wish I had included this in the review.
@@WinkysWorkshop Write a comment yourself and PIN it to the start. Anyone reading the comments will see it first. Secondly, make up a bush from drill rod then flame harden it. To do that heat bright red and quench immediately, polish it up bright, then GENTLY wash over it with a soft flame until it starts to colour. STOP at dark straw to blue colour and quench again. What you have done is harden fully then tempered it back to a lower hardness. Fit it into the body hole with some Loctite. Should work fine after that modification. Regards from Australia.
Great review winky, hope you get to feeling better.
Thank you 🤗 Already feeling better.
Tempting buy. Glad you are feeling better.
I messed up with the rod cutting. There is a hole in the blade for cutting rod. The problem is, the hole in the frame that lines up with the one in the blade has a sleeve in it that is not hardened. It needs to be. I'm going to put a sleeve in it and make another video.
Sorry to hear you came down with it.. My son is going through it now. Don
It was rough but I'm doing fine now. The worst part was a sore throat and fatigue. Totally zap your energy.
I made a wooden base for my similar shear which sticks out in front of the shear. The base has two bolts which stick upwards and the shear is
held by the two nuts. I normally clamp this base to my low table or bench but for small jobs it can be used on the floor. The base makes the tool
far more useful and when not in use the tool sits on the floor with the base beside it leaning against the wall. I also made a rope handle to make the
tool easier to pick up and carry (old age). The hole in mine does not cut well either. I put a nut and bolt through it to lock the tool when not in use (no spring).
Thebase can also be used for mounting various other tools which I do not have space to permanently mount.
@@colmone5592 I'm going to modify the rod cutting hole. (part 2)
Since the handle sticks up out of the way anyway, make the handle longer and angle it a bit toward the user rather than straight up and down. Makes the first pull on the handle noticeably easier.
Another great episode!
Thanks, I agree totally about the handle although I mostly use it to cut sheet metal which doesn't require as much effort.
I have a couple of shears, one like this for straight and a throatless for curves. I have an old truck wheel with 2" square tube welded vertically on an old hub. I have mounting plates for the shears and my shrink er stretcher which locate on the top of the 2" box giving me a portable solution for this kit.
Interesting solution, thanks
Great review Winky. I want one of those now, to force myself to come up with some projects for it! I also need a small brake. Man, I feel for you getting over Covid. One of my best friends lost his life on his motorcycle about a month ago up in Kentucky, and I got exposed to it at his funeral! Mine was more like the "flu lite". Worst part was being stuck at home (in my shop) during quarantine period. I could definitely have used that shear during that few days! Looking forward to your projects using that thing.
I need to do a follow up. The rod was supposed to be cut in a hole in the blade but it doesn't work very well.
Those shears are very handy, you'll find yourself using it more than you may think! Just avoid hardened metal, which will damage the blades.
@@Bob_Adkins I suspect you are correct, especially if I can fix the rod cutting feature which did not work so well. Part two will cover an improvement in this area. Hopefully!
I have the same shear and use it often. I did make a modification you may consider. I added a small hydraulic jack. I no longer need that long handle nor does it need to be secured to a bench. I can use it on the floor, tailgate, or anywhere I need it. Also, shearing effort is nearly nothing. I'll post a picture later.
wow, that is interesting, thanks for sharing.
I’ve been wanting to get one of these for awhile. Im going to order one today thanks for the review.
No problem 👍 One negative I overlooked in the video was a hole intended for cutting rod or bolts located on the side of the blade. The idea is great but they installed a soft steel sleeve in the hole in the frame that intersects with this hole and it needs to be hardened. I'll post a video of this fix next week.
@@WinkysWorkshop Great I look forward to seeing that update and I’m sure I’ll do something similar.
Good review and torcher test Mark. That thing is pretty robust. Avoid the round bar like others have noted.. Thanks for sharing !
Thanks 👍
I have the same shear. I have had it for a few years now. A different brand, but probably made in the same factory. It works okay but now I have a 3 ft stomp shear so I rarely use the 8 inch shear.
I wish I had the space for a shear and brake... I have to stop somewhere! Ha
@@WinkysWorkshop Oh yeah understand that.
Thanks for demonstrating this. I had wondered was how it would work compared to the Beverly style with the small curved blade. One thing I could see doing to it would be to add a strong magnet to the hold down to act as a third hand to help hold the metal while positioning it under the cutter for the really close cuts.
I think the Beverly style shear is a little better but this has a good price. When i made the video I didn't realize it has a rod cutting feature (the hole in the blade). It doesn't work well because the bushing in the frame that mates with this hole isn't hardened. I'll have a video on how to address this next week.
Nice quick review. I just wish you did a quick examination of the blades before giving it a final grade.
Yes you are correct, I should have done that. The blade looked great until I tried to cut the 1/4". It did not effect the cutting edge but there was signs of scraping on the sides of the blade. Realistically this shear needs to be rated at 1/8" or less. The bar cutting is the part that bothered me. I overlooked the hole in the blade intended for this purpose until after i posted the video. This feature did not work well. I will do a follow up and post the video Friday (one week from this posting). It will include a fix for the rod cutting feature, hopefully.
I am impressed ! and the blade did not chip either ! that's a 10 out of 10 in my book !
I need one of those !
I'm not so happy with the rod cutting function but otherwise its a nice shear. I'll post s video where I improve this function next week. Hopefully...
Hi, I've wanted one of those for ages but every time I spot one for sale (used) it's gone before I can even make contact with the seller.
These are fairly cheap here. The ones that will cut curves are nice but more expensive.
Not designed for curve cutting. I have a different brand and use it only for sheet metal did you hear me yelling when you brought out that heavy metal. A throat less shear is the one made for cutting curves. Thanks for the review.
Yes the throat less shear would be nice. I agree, this shear is not so good for thick steel and I will only use it for sheet metal. However, it is advertised as being about to cut 1/4" thick steel so I was putting it to the the test. In my opinion it worked well for my purposes but if I was rating it to perform as advertised I should have given it a lower rating. I screw up on the rod test, there were no documents saying how to use the shear. The hole in the side of the blade was for cutting rod although it did not work very well.
Take a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum angle and make a shelf on the left side it really helps using the hold down.
That sounds like a good idea!
These shears work well for the money. There is a 12in model too. A squaring platform on the feed side with hold down clamps would be a nice addition. Oil on the blade helps the cut. Kinda wish they developed one with a ratcheting compound gear action so you could pump the handle 2-3x and make the cut, it would be easier to use and better for control.
I agree... the table with hold down would be fantastic, good idea!
After watching the video and looked at this hand shear. Their site says it is designed to cut straight cuts on metal and to cut round bars/ bolts
Yep... although it doesn't do so well on bars. I'm going to have a video posted Friday with a fix for the rod cutting - I hope
where can I get this shear and how much it cost
The link is in the description.
I got the same it still works fine
For straight cutting you can't beat the price
It's not made for hardened steel like bolts. You will dull the plate and possibly put indentions in the blade.
Most bolts are not very hard but for sure its not a good idea to cut a hardened bolt
Well it’s definitely not a Beverly but appears to do a decent job on straight sheet metal cuts. Needs a stronger and wider base.
I agree.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Hydrolic assist?
That would work
Why do you need to cut bolts off alot?
Or just a rod... honestly not much but I would use it more if it worked well. Bolt cutters are a bit easier. The sheer is very handy
For cutting curves you will want a throttles shear.It won't cut as thick of metal, but it will cut curves.
Yeah... maybe a better option but it depends on what you need.
A throatless shear allows cutting materials of infinite depth, and I think allows cutting curves more easily.
Yeah... a better option I think but this shear is fairly nice for the price.
I literally ordered one of these last night
oh man you need to use the rod hole
Yes... I figured that out after making the video. This part of the shear is not made right. It had a hole in the frame with what should have been fitting with a hardened sleeve. The problem is, it was not hardened plus there is too much clearance between the end of the sleeve and the blade. Otherwise the sheer works well... With that being said, 1/8" thick plate is about all it should be rated for.
i am buying for the purposes of cutting copper brass and bronze, nothing thicker than 2mm so hopefully im in the clear. sad the hole doesn't work well though. thanks for the reply
@@teslapiper It works great on flat stock up to 1/8" or a bit less.
awesome, wish you video came out a couple days earlier. would have had a bit more confidence ordering it, these vevor products are hit or miss.
I couldn't make one cheaper once you factor in time and materials.
So true
never put round bar in a shear . you need a die with that size hole in it to cut round bar. bolts are a lot harder. and would chip the cut edge. but sure is nice to have when you need it..
I agree. They claimed to cut round bar in the specs but I overlooked the fact that it has a hole in the middle of the blade for cutting bar (no documentation at all). Still the round hole doesn't work very well. Two problem, there is a bushing in the frame which I assumed was hardened but it was not. The other problem is the end if the bushing is not contacting the blade. I need to do a follow up. People need to be aware of this shortcoming. I'll probably put a hardened sleeve in the existing bushing with a 8mm ID.
had a look on their web site, they want 200 for one in Oz dollars and they are sold out anyway.
Bummer
Not really made to cut round stock. The round stock tends to make notches (dull) in the blades. Not made to cut curves like a Beverly shear.
I mount tools like this to a 3/4” piece of plywood. I have flush inserts in my work bench that I can then mount the plywood to. When done I can easily remove the tool and store on a shelf with other similarly mounted tools. Saves a lot of spaces for tools I don’t use everyday.
Good idea on the plywood, I did something like that with a bench mount bolt cutter. I found out after making the video that there is a hole for cutting rod in the side of the blade.
ua-cam.com/video/p8VGPXbvlfc/v-deo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop I did see in the second video that you addressed the rod cutter problems. I also liked your mounting system for the arbor press. Good job! I like my plywood mounts, because they sit very stable on my shelves. I have my shear, small belt sander, disk sander, plainer, etc. mounted that way.
@@53HOTROD You definitely gotta have space to work!
I am just getting over covid myself and it is scary how much energy you lose after covid!
Yeah... mine is starting to come back but very slowly!
For cutting a curve , a Beverly shear is designed to do that with ease ...
Yep... probably a versatile option.
The only thing I needed to see was omitted: the cutoff pieces you let fall to the floor, out of camera view. I only needed to see how curved they came off. I am looking to buy this to cut 0.5 mm thick copper sheet into long strips, 5 mm wide. So the thin cutoff is the product. I want the product to be as flat as possible because it will be flat in the final form, and I hope not to need to flatten it a whole lot.
OK now I'm good but I am leaving this comment in because it will be helpful to someone. The curving of what is sheared off can be minimized by repeated short bypass strokes instead of one fell swoop. However, if you really want flat product sheared off on the other side, buy a guillotine shear instead of this pull-back benchtop kind, for perfectly flat product, as-cut. The action of this kind of shear is exactly the same as a pair of scissors: the cutoff will be curved.
Yeah, it is curved.