I did this route in 1986 with my fiance, and led both the first lLeaning column) and second pitches (second pitch was the Durrance crack) with a few large stoppers and remaining fixed pitons. I had a single 3" friend for larger protection. No issues or slip/falls. Anne led the short 3 pitch and then I led the flake-crack with a few small wired stoppers. Finished by the Bailey Direct. A fun route but the weather changed the next day with rain and cloud--had to go home without a second route that we had planned.
It's an iconic route on an iconic formation, I know, but Durrance looks like such a thrutch! "Blue collar" is a "red flag" for me. That said, this is a great video and a really good send!
Blue collar isn’t necessarily a bad thing it just means expect it to be physical and “full contact” and is a term commonly used to describe offwidth climbs. Yes it’s slippery and yes you will probably come out bruised and a little bloody but that makes the send that much better. If you don’t mind a little grunting you will have a blast on this! Thanks so much for the comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
@@dswanderinggoat Thanks for the gloss, David. I've been climbing for 30 years, so I've done my fair share of blue collar routes. It's just not a genre I enjoy much anymore is all. If I ever make it out to Wyo, though, I'll absolutely gird my loins and give Durrance a whirl, on your recommendation :)
Wasn’t really a bolt it’s a very beefy eyelet that is connected to the right most lower bolt with a piece of steel cabling for redundancy. Made more sense then an uncomfortable low belay off the quad master point.
This route was just an awful grind. Did it last year and how smooth and polished the rock was really took a lot away from the climb for me. But I’m also a bad crack/OW climber so I don’t know what I expected. Good lead.
I’m not the best at crack either and I did think this route was pretty tough at the grade. What I did appreciate though was the fantastic rock quality, good pro and cool summit. Glad I experienced it but probably won’t do it again.
Where did I complain about the rock? If you read the description it says “500 ft of classic granite” . The comment about the slippery nature of the route is there because it’s actually slippery. It’s not a complaint it’s a statement of fact because this is a trade route. I love this route and the tower in general and want to climb many more routes on it soon.
great video really showing what its like
I did this route in 1986 with my fiance, and led both the first lLeaning column) and second pitches (second pitch was the Durrance crack) with a few large stoppers and remaining fixed pitons. I had a single 3" friend for larger protection. No issues or slip/falls. Anne led the short 3 pitch and then I led the flake-crack with a few small wired stoppers. Finished by the Bailey Direct. A fun route but the weather changed the next day with rain and cloud--had to go home without a second route that we had planned.
Hexcentrics and stoppers, one solid old tube chock. That's what we had in 1979 for pro. A classic for sure.
It's an iconic route on an iconic formation, I know, but Durrance looks like such a thrutch! "Blue collar" is a "red flag" for me. That said, this is a great video and a really good send!
Blue collar isn’t necessarily a bad thing it just means expect it to be physical and “full contact” and is a term commonly used to describe offwidth climbs. Yes it’s slippery and yes you will probably come out bruised and a little bloody but that makes the send that much better. If you don’t mind a little grunting you will have a blast on this! Thanks so much for the comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
@@dswanderinggoat Thanks for the gloss, David. I've been climbing for 30 years, so I've done my fair share of blue collar routes. It's just not a genre I enjoy much anymore is all. If I ever make it out to Wyo, though, I'll absolutely gird my loins and give Durrance a whirl, on your recommendation :)
@@princenabby1 If you get out there lemme know how it goes!
I loved the Durrance route!
I lead the crux pitch on the Durrance Route in 1972, ascent number 949.
Wondering why you belayed your second off of single bolts rather than the masterpoint of the quad you were cloved into.
Wasn’t really a bolt it’s a very beefy eyelet that is connected to the right most lower bolt with a piece of steel cabling for redundancy. Made more sense then an uncomfortable low belay off the quad master point.
This route was just an awful grind. Did it last year and how smooth and polished the rock was really took a lot away from the climb for me. But I’m also a bad crack/OW climber so I don’t know what I expected. Good lead.
I’m not the best at crack either and I did think this route was pretty tough at the grade. What I did appreciate though was the fantastic rock quality, good pro and cool summit. Glad I experienced it but probably won’t do it again.
you guys are summitting the tallest thing in the vast plains of wyoming for an amazing view and you're complaining about the rock???
Where did I complain about the rock? If you read the description it says “500 ft of classic granite” . The comment about the slippery nature of the route is there because it’s actually slippery. It’s not a complaint it’s a statement of fact because this is a trade route. I love this route and the tower in general and want to climb many more routes on it soon.