Installing Whole RV Electrical Surge Suppressor || RV How-to
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In this RV how-to video, I show you how easy it is to install an electrical surge suppressor that will protect your whole RV. Follow these easy steps, and you'll save a ton of money doing it yourself!
This happens to be a 2004 Newmar Dutch Star motorhome that I am working on today.
Parts used in this video:
Southwire Surge Guard: amzn.to/3OyZeHY
Southwire Surge Guard remote display: amzn.to/3OvcqgQ
Additional Whole RV surge suppressors: www.amazon.com...
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Thanks TR glad I won't have tomfool with an outside one that could grow feet.
Just found your channel! Glad I did. Could the Southwire unit you installed here have been flipped or perhaps rotated 90 degrees so that the line cord didn't have to make the bend? I'm about to install mine and considering the flipping to avoid additional strain on the cord/connection/etc?
With my advancing age, LOL, I don't recall if there were any restrictions on how it was mounted. I don't think it makes any difference. Thanks for watching!
Good video TR. Wondering why you didn't install previously?
Not sure why. I guess I didn't think I needed it. Richard wanted one so I put it in for him. Thanks Jim
Great video TR. I put in an older model (same brand) in the electric bay of our Vectra. The difference between the portable Surge suppressor and the fixed mounted surge suppressor is protection of theft and protection against the weather. The fixed install will not protect the power cable as the portable one will. This is a good product and saved us a few times from ground faults and a miswired pedestal.
Thanks! The thing with cables that fail is the connection point failing due to arcing. The cable can carry a 10,000 amp surge with no problem because it only last at most a couple of milliseconds. It doesn't have time to heat up. I helped my neighbor fix his plug after a lightning strike and the wire was welded to the plug terminals. It was pre-picture taking cellphone days, but you could see where the ark traveled through the plastic part of the plug and the two hots were welded to the ground.
I just bought a heavy beast that goes outside, don't have room in elec compartment
Yea, I totally get that. I'm lucky that I have so much space. Thanks for watching Cubby!
Great video T.R. If our existing external one gives up the ghost I might put one of those buit in ones in, only problem might be space. We have a Glennding cord winder like they use on boats that doesn't have any rotating contacts, it just curls the cord down into an approx 12-14" canister. Not sure there's any room left on the wall, but I might could mount it on the side of the cord reel container. Hey, what happened to your wet bay door. Safe travels.
This can be mounted in any direction, making it pretty versatile. You could mount it on the ceiling. The waterbay door got banged up by a falling rock. I was driving from Challis to Redfish Lake, and the road follows the Salmon River in the canyon. I just got lucky, and a falling rock rolled into me. I couldn't change lanes because of oncoming traffic. There are a million falling rock signs on that road, and in 45 years of traveling it, I'd seen plenty on the shoulder but none rolling towards me with nowhere to go. It made a huge ass bang, I'll tell you that. I have it on camera, sort of. I have a dashcam video of that day, but it would have to be highly edited. I let out a string of expletives for sure.😇
@@trbowlin We have 4 or 5 bay doors on our Newmar DSDP that have some kind of delamination(mostly on the passenger side). Some areas look like typical delamination where there is a slight bubble in the door skin like it's not glued down, but some look like low spots where the styrofoam under the door skin is sunk-in maybe 1/4". I wish I could figure out how to disassemble that metal extrusion and separate it from the inner and outer door skins. I removed the screws from the extrusions but it won't budge. Newmar told me it was all glued together with Styka or Styka flex(sp). I called the Styka factory/corp and they said heating it up might make it let go but it would be probably be gooey. Thought about drilling holes in from the inside and injecting some epoxy or spray foam adhesive into the voids(being careful not to drill through the outter skin), and clamping a flat board on the outside. The paint is in perfect shape so I'm hoping to avoid having to do any of that. Last time I checked with Newmar about this(2017-2018), I think the bay doors were around 500.00 each. If you have any Ideas please let me know. I totally reroofed our '03 after watching your video series on reroofing your '04. Thanks man!
Yea, taking those doors apart is virtually impossible. I tried to take that water bay door apart and it was not possible. That door cost about $670 if memory serves. Injecting foam might be tricky. I'm not sure how you could know if you had enough or too much injected. The epoxy thing might be the safer bet. The doors are filled with styrofoam sheets. Kick me an email and I'll send some pictures of the water bay door. It may help you understand how they are built and give you a better idea on fixing the problem trbowlin@gmail.com. Plus it is easier to have a conversation via email. Thanks!
Thanks TR!
Any time!