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How to paint Realistic Leather on your Models
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2024
- Hi folks, in this video I'll be demonstrating how to paint leather on your models with Oils and Acrylics!
Patreon
www.patreon.com/lpjmodels
VMS
www.vms-supplies.com
Materials used.
Red Brown Tamiya
Buff Vallejo
VMS Satin Varnish
VMS Universal weathering Carrier
Artist oils, (not cheap stuff !)
(And this depends on what colour seat you're making, but as a rough selection)
Burnt Umber
Burnt Sienna
Yellow Ochre
French Ultramarine
Alzarin Crimson ( for red leather)
.
Don't forget to leave a like and a comment if you found this video helpful!
Done and done!
Excellent Tutorial James. These short and to the point video's really help the expand the knowledge base and skill sets of model builders. Looking forward to seeing more like this. 👍😎👍
Thanks a lot Eric ! There will be more, fear not !
Simple technique but producing brilliant results. Thanks, James....yet again another informative and on point tutorial. These short 'vignettes" you present are so worthwhile and valuable to all levels of model building. This one has arrived at the right time for me so I'm very grateful to you for sure👌👏
Thankyou Robbo ! I'm slowly getting the hang of making these tutorials more impactful in a shorter space of time. It's tricky getting that balance but it seems to be going well !
Brilliant result! And I have to say I love your second attempt too. Great work and thank you for the tutorial.
What a great tutorial. Thanks James for sharing your scale modelling knowledge.👍😎
One of the best vids on painting leather, easy to follow along. Cheers.
Thanks Robbie, glad you found it helpful 😀
Yet another amazingly well explained and simply excellent tutorial. Thanks James.
Thanks Mark, glad you found it useful!
I love the look of it without the oils. Thank you for this. You were the first to pop up when I was searching for "how to paint realistic looking leather"❤ Thank you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
@lpjmodels Absolutely. I actually did use oils haha 😄 I still feel like my stipling to make it look scuffed didn't work out well. I almost have it down.
I'm painting a Great Unclean One.
Absolutly amazing James, when im painting leather I usually do it with acylics, but defenitly im gonna try it with oils!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks Joaquim I appreciate the support ! It's dead simple and really effective go for itb
Excellent video! Just followed your advice on the leather pads on the hatches of my Churchill VII. Worked like a charm...cheers!
Great tutorial.will be doing it this way from now.Thank you
Ian
Fantastic result, that seat looks like the real leather👍
Great video James! I'll be using this technique for the leather on the Kettenkrad for sure. Similar to how I've done it in the past but I've not tried the sponge and that really made the leather look awesome! I should also one of these days get some of the VMS products. I hear good things but haven't pulled that trigger yet. Anyway keep making great content. Cheers! Oh, btw I thought your first attempts still looked great... just different that's all.
That looks fantastic! I'll have to give this a go on some leather seats, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jonathan! Go for it, it's quick n easy!l
Actually really liked the bench! Looks very good. Thanks for the techniques, fantastic tutorial.
Thanks mate ! The bench is getting lots of love
Wonderful technic James, I love your how-to tip videos. I'll have to look and see if you have one for painting canvas, another tricky one many people struggle with. Thanks for sharing and model on! Johnny
Thanks Johnny, I havent Done a canvas tutorial yet, I wouldn't know where to start as yet
Excellent video my friend the distressed leather looks amazing great techniques and well explained thanks for sharing 👍👍
Thanks a lot Rims !
That is quite convincing. Nicely done.
Another fantastic video James! 👍 Will have to create a new list of "Master tips and tricks" to put this in. Some of the best advice there at the end for sure! I know I will enjoy this hobby of ours even more through my imperfect creations.
Thanks @CrazyLocha ! I'm pleased it's gonna be usefuln
Fantastic result! I'm going to try this on a 48 Ford car seat. Thank you.
I enjoyed watching this very well explained tutorial. Thank you dear James. Always a pleasure to see the LPJ channel :)
Thanks Thierry ! I hope it was what you wanted !
@@lpjmodels yes indeed!
I'll be trying this and another tool for the tool box. Your final comments ring very true as someone with a perfectionism streak, I mainly work with figures, and have gotten to 95% done and it doesn't quite meet expectation into the paint stripper and start over.
Thanks man ! I'm a perfectionist too and it's stopped me from continuing with some projects because they just weren't going right ( not many, mainly the Minerva figures)
I'm gonna try this technique today... thank you!
Thanks for this ! I've been looking for a tutorial that was well explained and you nailed it. I can't wait to try it out ✌☃✌
Thanks James 😀
Thanks James great video for a starter, cheers.
Love your honesty mate, Thankyou for a great tutorial. Just subbed ☺️👍
Thanks for this great technique!
Nice tutorial, James. Great results.
Wow thanks Rick!
Nice tutorial. This something that I will definitely use someday. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael, I'm glad folks are finding this useful
Awesome vid and so quick! Gonna have to try this out! Thanks for sharing 😉
Thanks Andy 😀
Great tutorial. But tbh for me your second attempt looks more realistic, and you absolutely nailed it there :D
Thanks ! Its hard to choose, I think I wasn't feeling it first time !
*A lot of patience but the result is awesome for old leather, great technic LPJ!*
Superb tutorial, James 😊👍
Thanks mate !
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Another great technique👌 Used the technique similar to this for when you did the seat in your Minerva, & was really pleased how it looked (for a 1st attempt😏). I’ve an old 1/35th leather chair that needs some attention soon so will use this again to try & give it some wear & tear. Nice video James👍
Thanks a lot @barbarossa models ! It's a fun and effective technique but needs a little practice. I have been meaning to do a dedicated video for ages !
Great video! I'm definitely give this a try next time I'm painting leather.
Thanks Mick !
I have seen you use this technique in other builds you have done on UA-cam James but when I have tried it I have never got the type of results you get. Like you say I was happy with the finish but I felt it lacked that something. I realise now I wasn't doing the oil shading and highlights. I'm defiantly going to give it a go thank you for producing this video, and in answer to your question yes I found it very helpful.👍👍
Thanks Gaz ! When I'm working on the technique for a build I'll put in a bit more time with the oils to try and get the right look. It's hard to know when to stop and leave it but luckily it can be wiped away, glad you found it helpful too mate !
Very nice!! Thank you and I'll be trying this technique out!!
⭐️ great technique and very good presentation 😎 ⭐️ thanks for sharing 👍
Thankyou, glad it was helpful
This is fantastic! I just finished an ICM WW1 Australian Army Ford touring car. Thanks!
Thanks Wade, that's a cool vehicle !
Very helpful and informative tutorial!
Thanks mate !
Thank You, Masterrrrrr! Very good trick!
Hug from Brazil, James and thank'u again.
Thankyou Sergio my freind !
Great, It looks wonderful, thank you👍🏻
Thanks Y !
Great work as always. I have recently found Vallejo Flat Earth is a great base color for a more cognac/saddle tan hue of leather (just for some more variety in leather colors).
Thanks for the tip Brett !
Great tutorial for this. 🙂
really lovely work!
Thanks !
Great result!
Many thanks !
Great video! Leather is my weakness, will definitely try this
Thanks mate, it's a simple trick with great results
Great tutorial !
Thanks Piotr 😀
Interesting. In principle, I do it in a similar way, although I use a brush and painting methods more..
Awesome video
Very helpful tutorial indeed 👍 👌
Glad you think so!
Great work.
Thanks Craig !
Super video 👍
I was really expecting you to do one to two steps of blending the yellow and brown acrylics before stepping up to the pure yellow but that was stone simple(as opposed to dead easy) and looks great.
Great video my friend
Thanks so much DH !
Nice job.
Outstanding as always, thanks!
I agree John!
Thanks mate !
@@lpjmodels Cheers - be well.
Great video James! I know a few car modellers that could use this info! 😎
Thanks Peter ! It would work great for car seats that's true
Fabtastic video again matey..
Many thanks Mos :)
Great vid thanks for sharing! 👍
Thanks my freind :D
Okay but that bench at the end, I agree with your assessment that the bottom portion was just a tad lacking, but that upper portion looked quite good
Thanks Andrew !
Very impressive!
You spend more time on a cushion than I do on an entire model 😂
Thanks @model minutes 😀
Very good and very useful. I asked in a previous video of yours about a range of suitable oil colours for someone who has never used oils previously. I don't want to buy colours that will likely never be used !
Cadmium red light
Quinacridone red
Cadmium yellow light
Hansa [or lemon] yellow
Caerulean blue
Titanium white
Yellow ochre
Raw sienna
Burnt sienna
Ultramarine Blue
Pyhalocyanine Blue [or Prussian Blue]
Pthalocyanine Green [or Viridian]
Make sure they are all single pigment colours, and you can mix absolutely any other colour (including various blacks) from them.
Thanks for the tips! I hope you make more tutorials :)
I will be :)
This was very helpfull! Thank you! :D
You're welcome man !
I like the bench more, for me, it just seems more real-ish. Of course, this brings up the point that everyone likes a slightly different result, and others might find what your not happy with as an amazing result. One thing to always keep in mind, as a modeler, we are always looking for ways to improve. So we tend to judge our work harder than needed.
One thing I can think of for the bench on what could be missing, having a little bit of a sun bleached area. Or maybe even a dry pastel/chalk/pigment added to give it that little extra dirty/used look. Maybe even a combo of the two.
Thanks Aoi, the fading is a good idea, I'd do that with oils, and any dirt on the model proper would be carried on to the bench appropriately
The bench looks killer man! The only thing would be it was two different tones, but it looks stellar James 👌 I will have to try this in a upcoming build!
Thanks Corey, it was originally to show 2 tones, but it just kept messing up
@@lpjmodels maybe next time you can do a tutorial on painting canvas tops! I'm really enjoying these videos 110% very helpful to see stuff come alive! Keep up the great work James 👍 👏 💪 I can't wait till the next video!!
@@coreyseals4269 thanks ! I havent got anything at the moment that I could do a canvas top on though :(
Excellent merci
Good tips there. When blending oils I always remember the late Bob Ross who would say "use 2 hairs and some air"... in other words be gentle
Good ole Bob Ross ! I'm not a subscriber to the happy accidents ethos with models though :p
Nice technic to do Leather jacket, Like Bomber jacket!
Friggin amazing :D I just wish I had a kit to try it on lol.
Thanks mate ! You gotta have something with seats :o
@@lpjmodels time for a WWI omnibus haha
You make it look really easy James, great video. Good audio levels too 😉
Thanks Sera ! The next one should be even more on the ball
Although this was done 2 weeks ago :D
@@lpjmodels WTF do I know 🤣
@@StaplesandVine I weren't having a dig ! :D
@@lpjmodels I know, whatever you are doing you nailed it with this one 🙂
I also use a cotton bud just to the edges stipple effect.
Dope!
This is a fantastic tip, thank you so much. I have been looking around for a way to weather up the ulpholstery on about 40 seats on a London Bus I am building from Revell. This will do perfectly thank you. Is it from your own experimenting and testing?
Glad it helped 😀
I picked up an old
leather bound book
and realised the journey
as I sit here and look....
That is very nice tutorial. Would you share how would you paint black leather?
I will do at some point mate !
The key is to do some highlights with pink or fleshtone in the mix as well and not white. Similar under layer though, perhaps panzer grey and a light brown distressing
@@lpjmodels I had the same question for the seat of my Fiat SB4. Thank you so much, it looks great, and I will practice your technique👍🏻
Could you cover the application of decals on different surfaces and how to weather them please
Amazing video! I wonder that if instead of oil paints would enamels work too? Or are they the same thing and I’m just not aware.
They are very similar except that enamels uses alkyd binders instead of natural oils, I would stay away from enamel thinners though as these have nasties that can affect underlying paint layers, stick with odourless thinners.
What color would you use for light details? Ochre or ivory white?
7:57 I would have been more than happy with such a nice result. Anyways when I grow as a modeler I might get more picky about how things should look but I hope not.
what color pallet would you suggest working with for black leather?
Depending on the leather underneath I'd use a completely greyscale palette or dark grey and some tans. Glazed with black over the top, black does take a while longer to dry too
Спасибо за урок!
I know this is an older post, but thanks for the fantastic tutorial... I plan to try this method out! One thing that concerns me is the varnish coat over the wet oils. Do you ever have issues with it smearing or do you leave it alone for several days? I would think thag sealing the oil paint between two layers would prevent it from ever fully drying. Thanks again!
Hi Fred, no issues with smearing. The reason I coat it so quickly is to offer more protection while the oils are curing. Usually I'll leave it overnight, because the layers are thin it's enough time for the oils to skin over and start hardening. Oils oxidise instead of drying by evaporation like acrylics. ( there is an evaporative factor at the start with the thinner, but that evaporates after 10 mins ) so it cures under the layers of acrylic no problem. Just make sure your layers are thin and all thinner has evaporated before sealing !
Hi James, thank you so much for the reply and all of the help!
Looks very good, it seems that you varnish before the oil paint isnt really dried up. Dont you have any problems with that?
My thoughts too.
I let the thinner evaporate out (15 mins ) and then go straight over it , with thin layers like this and a compatible varnish you're usually fine.
The tip is then to leave it for a day, I spray the varnish on straight away to protect the oils from dust and any accidental knocks.
Thanks, Very nice. I assume you waited for those oils to dry well, before adding the final varnish. How long? In my experience oils do take quite a while to completely dry. Ralph
15 minutes, That's all, like the woodgrain video I did I like to protect the oil surface as quickly as possible. Because the layers aren't very thick any movement in the oil layer when it's curing won't affect the acrylic layer.
I would however test this with what you have before commiting to a final piece !
@@lpjmodels Very interesting. Thanks I'll have to experiment.
@@lpjmodels I was wondering the same thing, because I would expect the varnish to react somehow with wet oils... I'll have to try it for myself, as it could speed up the process considerably.
Great results BTW!
@@shotekczech7604 thanks Shotek ! I do it regularly with oils, you just need to be careful that it's not too thick a layer underneath !
i have zero experience so pls disregard if i'm wrong. maybe the something is there should be different levels of reflectiveness between the weathered part and the leather part... but i don't know how to achieve that without it looking reversed
Hi
What's 'lever?' 😆
I'm not sure? Some kind of pedantry?
So much for buying paint that’s simply marked as “leather”.
DO NOT VARNISH OIL THAT SOON! Covering oils with varnish so fast will stop oils from drying and may never dry. Whole thing will be sticky. Also it may crack. Recommended time before varnishing oils is even 6months! Turp may evaporate but oil wont. Oil must cure.
If you're painting. As in actually painting a picture with moderate brushing or thick impasto strokes yes oils will take an indefinite amount of time to dry.
In fact the oils expand and reduce for years once the oxidisation has occurred.
If you're painting oils on a model thick enough to get the varnish layer to crack you're putting too much on to start with.
I understand the concern, but explain this to the propellers and woodgrain on all of my ww1 models that dried just fine, without cracking and without being sticky. ( up to 3 years old)
@@lpjmodels Painted miniature with oils almost 2 years ago and varnished.... still sticky.
@@bartekkucharski3880 what quality of oils did you use ? And how thick did you paint it
Looks like a cheez-it I found in my college apartment.