I watched your video of the homemade stabilizer and the wheel chocks. I have a GD very similar to yours. I had a 5th wheel in 2001 and it shook a little, I made a stabilizer out of 2x4s and a ratchet strap, wedged it in the I beam frame and pulled the strap taught at the bottom of 2x4s really worked Tried it on the GD but didn't stop much movement, but I had wheel wedges, and didn't think about the cargo bar. After watching your video, I had all the material to do the rear, ordered a different brand of wheel chocks, amazing how stable it was, added another on the front and even more stable. My jacke are mounted at an angle, I assume they thought they would help, they don't. I have a I beam frame to attach the hook to the top, the bottom hook attaches to the foot of jack like yours. Like you said a little more work but worth it for a long stay. Also I replaced the fold up factory steps with the Libert Solid Step. Very stable steps. Thanks for your Video. Happy Camping Mel
I added 2 more jackets in front of the axle, for a total of six. I also replaced the other four with heavier rated than needed. With all six down I hardly get any movement.
Hey Darren, I’ve been having the sway in my 27’ AF and it didn’t matter how much I snugged up the jacks, after watching a few videos on utube I thought your idea would be pretty cheap thing to try. I found 2 bars on kijiji for 20$ each and gave it try, I already had straps. Your right it is kinda a pain to crawl under but I’m still in pretty good shape and this is better than spending a couple of hundred on other systems, your idea really works! This takes probably 90% of the shake out of the trailer. I did use the bars on the forward and back jacks. Thanks Tom from Calgary
I posted this response in another posting but feel I should repeat it here. One more Item I would like to add is if the spare tire bracket interferes as yours did to add some shim to the upper bar to make clearance for the spare bracket. I like the concept but I would think the fabric in the ratchet strap would stretch requiring continuous tightening and even at that there would be bounce from the fabric stretching under a shifting load. Perhaps a rigid turnbuckle would be a better alternative to the strap. I have tried many different ways and found none of them eliminated the wiggle and bounce in a RV. I would think that by now the manufacturers would have a decent solution to this obvious problem RVers face. Over fifty years ago when my parents camped they had a small 16 foot Yellowstone camper and to eliminate the wiggle and bounce my dad would put old railroad ties and shims under the 4 corners. Back then campers we built lower to the ground and less blocks were needed. He had an old railroad jack to slightly lift the camper to shim as needed to get a solid foundation. All this means less space for more fun things to bring along but then there are always these trades offs in the world. I think I am going to try the screw supports in front of the tires and behind the tires for my next outing and I will report back on how well that works. I STILL FEEL BY NOW THE RV INDUSTRY WOULD HAVE A ROCK SOLID SOLUTION TO THIS OBNOXIOUS ISSUE.
Could you use 2 bars on the back 1 at the bottom (1 like you did, and 1 at the top of the jacks (parallel to the bottom bar, then use a couple tie downs 1/4 of the distance between the two ends pulling the bars toward the center (maybe the top bar would fall, but I thought maybe that'd be easier than situating the straps in an x shape). My way might be hard to get the bar to stay on top just a thought. I love your DIY idea that's way cheaper than some of the professional solutions like the Lippert JT Strong Arm.
@@coloradokayakingrv7647 I looked under my 5th wheel rear scissors jacks and they are at a 45 degree angle. So I'm going to have to redo those to make them 90 degrees. Just a little more work, lol.
Great idea and I already have everything to try it out! I'm wondering though if over time you did any damage to the bolts or welds securing your jack stands to the trailer frame?
Somebody else had commented on that. No I haven't seen any damage. Remember that you are only tightening the straps to be just a little taunt. Some people are thinking that I crank the straps as tight as they will go.
The only thing I would worry about is all of the difference pressure points on the stabilizing jacks. We all know they aren't supposed to be used for leveling because they aren't designed to hold weight. It looks like it works awesome but I would want to know from the manufacturer if the extra tension and weight distribution is ok on them.
I agree. You're also pulling them inward at the top potentially loosening the bolts in the frame. Over time this may cause them to loosen to much. That would be a great quick fix though in a jam. Good comparison too.
@@brianstojak5379 I think a plate say 3x4" with a 1/2" hole in one end bolted to the bottom of the frame next to the jack to hook the strap at the frame instead of the top of the jack would do well. Also, most camp sites are gravel, I think they should solid up the camper? I had a new 2003 Open Road 5th wheel I did basically the same thing, leaned a 2x4 from the frame at about 45 degrees with a ratchet strap pulling the boards together, mad it so much more stable. Thanks for the video, gonna do this soon.
The Valterra system is around 100$ now. I had a cargo bar and, bought a second cargo bar at HF for 15$ as a club member, sale price is 21$, for the front.
I am confused about all the hand wringing and worrying about stressing the stabilizers, HE'S NOT OVER TIGHTENING FOLKS. He stresses that multiple times. My gosh, your are worrying about a cheap hand crank stabilizer that you can buy for $50. This is only creating an equalizing push-pull stress that cancels each force out, it is not causing torque.
Exactly. The stabilizer jacks really don't move at all. The push of the rod and the pull of the strap just keep the jack from wobbling. I am not pulling the jack at all. Anybody that can understand engineering would get it.
Awesome video! Using the level before and then after the two mods was awesome. Great job dude. Thanks!!!
Thank you. Excellent video. You answered my questions with a great demonstration. The Valterrs will work for someone with mobility problems.
Awesome comparison with that bubble level! Really shows the difference! Thanks!
I watched your video of the homemade stabilizer and the wheel chocks. I have a GD very similar to yours. I had a 5th wheel in 2001 and it shook a little, I made a stabilizer out of 2x4s and a ratchet strap, wedged it in the I beam frame and pulled the strap taught at the bottom of 2x4s really worked
Tried it on the GD but didn't stop much movement, but I had wheel wedges, and didn't think about the cargo bar. After watching your video, I had all the material to do the rear, ordered a different brand of wheel chocks, amazing how stable it was, added another on the front and even more stable. My jacke are mounted at an angle, I assume they thought they would help, they don't. I have a I beam frame to attach the hook to the top, the bottom hook attaches to the foot of jack like yours.
Like you said a little more work but worth it for a long stay. Also I replaced the fold up factory steps with the Libert Solid Step. Very stable steps.
Thanks for your Video.
Happy Camping
Mel
I added 2 more jackets in front of the axle, for a total of six. I also replaced the other four with heavier rated than needed. With all six down I hardly get any movement.
Hey Darren, I’ve been having the sway in my 27’ AF and it didn’t matter how much I snugged up the jacks, after watching a few videos on utube I thought your idea would be pretty cheap thing to try.
I found 2 bars on kijiji for 20$ each and gave it try, I already had straps. Your right it is kinda a pain to crawl under but I’m still in pretty good shape and this is better than spending a couple of hundred on other systems, your idea really works! This takes probably 90% of the shake out of the trailer. I did use the bars on the forward and back jacks. Thanks Tom from Calgary
Glad it works for you. I have never tried in on my front jacks, but am curious to see what that would do.
Thank you for the suggestions.
And the engineers are cheering, "The sum of all forces equal zero!"
Thank you. I will be trying this for sure.
I posted this response in another posting but feel I should repeat it here. One more Item I would like to add is if the spare tire bracket interferes as yours did to add some shim to the upper bar to make clearance for the spare bracket.
I like the concept but I would think the fabric in the ratchet strap would stretch requiring continuous tightening and even at that there would be bounce from the fabric stretching under a shifting load. Perhaps a rigid turnbuckle would be a better alternative to the strap. I have tried many different ways and found none of them eliminated the wiggle and bounce in a RV. I would think that by now the manufacturers would have a decent solution to this obvious problem RVers face. Over fifty years ago when my parents camped they had a small 16 foot Yellowstone camper and to eliminate the wiggle and bounce my dad would put old railroad ties and shims under the 4 corners. Back then campers we built lower to the ground and less blocks were needed. He had an old railroad jack to slightly lift the camper to shim as needed to get a solid foundation. All this means less space for more fun things to bring along but then there are always these trades offs in the world. I think I am going to try the screw supports in front of the tires and behind the tires for my next outing and I will report back on how well that works. I STILL FEEL BY NOW THE RV INDUSTRY WOULD HAVE A ROCK SOLID SOLUTION TO THIS OBNOXIOUS ISSUE.
We like your idea!!!
I really like this idea. Thank you 👍
It works 100%
Could you use 2 bars on the back 1 at the bottom (1 like you did, and 1 at the top of the jacks (parallel to the bottom bar, then use a couple tie downs 1/4 of the distance between the two ends pulling the bars toward the center (maybe the top bar would fall, but I thought maybe that'd be easier than situating the straps in an x shape).
My way might be hard to get the bar to stay on top just a thought.
I love your DIY idea that's way cheaper than some of the professional solutions like the
Lippert JT Strong Arm.
I just tried this method on my Jayco Jayflight 28BHBE and it did not seem to work at all. Still looking for something to stop the rock.
Definitely going to try your method as I can't get a brace on my bumper because of an overhang on a slightly downhill dip on my lot.
It was hard to show in the video, but the bar and straps actually worked better than the Valterra. I would be curious to hear how it works for you.
@@coloradokayakingrv7647 I looked under my 5th wheel rear scissors jacks and they are at a 45 degree angle. So I'm going to have to redo those to make them 90 degrees. Just a little more work, lol.
Great idea and I already have everything to try it out! I'm wondering though if over time you did any damage to the bolts or welds securing your jack stands to the trailer frame?
Somebody else had commented on that. No I haven't seen any damage. Remember that you are only tightening the straps to be just a little taunt. Some people are thinking that I crank the straps as tight as they will go.
I would think the Valterra would work better if the spare tire was moved over a bit, allowing the Valterra to make full contact w/bumper.
or get a board and notch out the spare tire bracket to allow full contact and weight transfer
Wouldn't under the left and right side do better? Not the back? The stabilizer jacks reduce it on the four corners.
Excellent!
The only thing I would worry about is all of the difference pressure points on the stabilizing jacks. We all know they aren't supposed to be used for leveling because they aren't designed to hold weight. It looks like it works awesome but I would want to know from the manufacturer if the extra tension and weight distribution is ok on them.
I agree. You're also pulling them inward at the top potentially loosening the bolts in the frame. Over time this may cause them to loosen to much. That would be a great quick fix though in a jam. Good comparison too.
@@brianstojak5379 I think a plate say 3x4" with a 1/2" hole in one end bolted to the bottom of the frame next to the jack to hook the strap at the frame instead of the top of the jack would do well. Also, most camp sites are gravel, I think they should solid up the camper? I had a new 2003 Open Road 5th wheel I did basically the same thing, leaned a 2x4 from the frame at about 45 degrees with a ratchet strap pulling the boards together, mad it so much more stable.
Thanks for the video, gonna do this soon.
The Valterra system is around 100$ now. I had a cargo bar and, bought a second cargo bar at HF for 15$ as a club member, sale price is 21$, for the front.
Wow, every thing keeps going up.
What kind of bar is that you get from harbour freight?
It is called a cargo bar. I have also seen them at Lowes.
Thank you
I bet it would work even better if you had your system on the front jacks as well!!
I have thought about trying that.
I am confused about all the hand wringing and worrying about stressing the stabilizers, HE'S NOT OVER TIGHTENING FOLKS. He stresses that multiple times. My gosh, your are worrying about a cheap hand crank stabilizer that you can buy for $50. This is only creating an equalizing push-pull stress that cancels each force out, it is not causing torque.
Exactly. The stabilizer jacks really don't move at all. The push of the rod and the pull of the strap just keep the jack from wobbling. I am not pulling the jack at all. Anybody that can understand engineering would get it.
On the bumper and on the spare tire bracket holding bolts? Nah, not doing this. Also, the diy method...jacks will be F’d in no time.