Should You Buy or DIY RV Stabilizers?
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- In this video, we compare DIY RV stabilizers to a commercial option to help you decide which one is best for your RV. A DIY stabilizer can be a cost-effective solution for those on a budget, and it may not have the same level aesthetic appeal as the commercial option. On the other hand, a commercial stabilizer is more expensive, but does it actually perform better? Let's take a look at the pros and cons of each option and give you an idea of what you can expect in terms of performance and value.↘️↘️Click “SHOW MORE” below to open the full video description! ↙️↙️
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Ditch the eye-bolt. Cut a little notch on both edges of the 2x4 where the bolt would have been and wrap with "Soft Loop Tie-Downs". Now you can easily stack the 2x4s in the garage
I like that as an alternative. Definitely easier to store that way, but I like that when I clip on my straps that I know for sure nothing can be loose or move on me without having to adjust those straps at each setup.
I built a set for a Jayco Jayflight that was more like a spring and less of a camper. We have removed the aluminum stabilizers. We now use the DIY, main stabilizers and Xchocks only. Solid as a rock. Great tip!
Very cool! Yes, they're super effective.
Sessions Jack's ain't t
Better bo
I made a set of the DIY version. I put the eye bolt through the widest part of the 2X4 instead of the narrow as you did. This allows me to stack them om my bumped and tie them down with one of the ratchet straps. They have worked better than any pre-manufactured set that I have had the opportunity to try. Cheers.
Love it!
I like it! Two suggestions:
1. Instead of nuts and washers, install a tee nut so you can remove the eye bolts for a smooth surface.
2. Install some clips that let you store the 2x4s along side the frame rails. Takes some clever designing but can work.
I've toyed with many ideas on how to clip them to the frame to keep them out of the pass- though but haven't settled on anything - how would you accomplish it?
Tee nuts are a great idea too! Knowing myself, after the first time, I'd never unthread the eye bolts - but I absolutely see the advantage there - great idea!
I built the DIY set for a 31 ft travel trailer. The work fairly well for the side to side motion but do not effect the forward backward motion much. I also cut a dado (slot) on one side of 4- 2x6 boards 10 inches long. I place these on the ground and place the 2x4 stabilizers in them, helps a lot on soft ground. Another tip is to put double 45deg cuts on all 4 corners of your stabilizer boards allows for a better nesting against the frame and the blocks on the ground.
Great tips! I use a single leveling block - the orange lego style - under the foot when its soft ground too. For front to back I've had good experiences with X-Chocks between the wheels on each side, or with a single axle trailer pulling into one chock with the vehicle, then inserting a chock on the other side before letting the trailer settle and disconnect to firmly chock better thank I could ever manually press them in.
Great video, thank you!!
My pleasure!
I like your 2 by 4 design going to try it right away
Here is dedicated instructions:
The Best RV Stabilizers Are Actually The Cheapest! -DIY 2x4 Instructions-
ua-cam.com/video/ropysInhCbc/v-deo.html
Just did this today, same instructions as you. Completely eliminated about 95% of the rock/shake in the front of the 5th wheel where the bed is. Was very annoying having the entire camper shaking side to side when youre just flipping over in your sleep. Not to mention the creaks of the camper. This eliminated the noise and the wobble
Fantastic - pretty impressive how much a 2x4 and some straps can impact the experience.
The dog is like "what the hell is he doing in there?" 😂
haha - yupp she absolutely was!
I have 36' travel trailer. Our sissor jacks are angeled on each corner. So instead of most jacks running 9 an 3 with the frame running 12 an 6, jacks are just past a 10 an 4. Clock way lol Then we added 2 more on the same angle right infront of the tires. That helps the bounce and we have X chocks too. Im going to do the level moving just like you did. I'm going to buy wood right now. I have been wanting to do this for a bit now!! Can't wait after seeing this!! I subscribed, too
Welcome aboard! Let me know how they work out for you!
@rvgearandfar Awesome!! We have 2 doors. I put them next to each step to not be in the way!!
This was so interesting, thank you! I would love to see you compare the DIY to the MoRyde X-Brace Scissor Jack Stabilizer and the MoRyde Hitch Mount Stabilizer.
Might be able to test out the XBrace at some point. The hitch mount stabilizer looks like a fantastic product as well and I think it would work fantastically - IF you have a legit hitch attached to your frame. I would not attach it to a hitch mount around a hollow bumper - might work for a few trips but I think eventually you'd crack the welds. Thanks for diving into so many videos!
@@rvgearandfar ohhhhhh that’s an excellent point!!!!!
We just replaced our old scissor jacks with 9,000k lb scissor jacks. They are a major improvement. Basically no movement. Now we need x chocks for the front to back movement which we only feel this when on uneven ground. The 9k lb jacks are highly recommended.
Nice - that upgrade is definitely helpful. Someday I wish RVs designed and sold RVs... little things like this could make the experience for the end consumer SO much better with little to no extra effort and minimal cost if addressed at the right point in the timeline
I appreciate and will subscribe. I would never spend the money on electric stabilizing jacks.
Enjoy!
I made 7 sets of the 2x4 model. works great. mine are 4' and as we use them i will adjust length. i found a way to put 2x4 on the tongue at about a 60 degree angle across the tongue and that seemed to help cut some front to rear movement. next is to make a set for the rear bumper to help with front to rear.........side note for now i use the aluminum braces( along with 2x4) under the steps and under the 2 slide outs b/4 slides are extended........store mine in back of truck for now till we get all storage space situated. thanks for help..................my wife came up with idea of adding those pads that clip on the hydraulick levelers as some sites the ground is just to soft and they would give a larger surface area for 2x4 to stand on....................wee keep improving things so we will work on other ideas.
Awesome! Sounds like you've got it all buttoned up - how long do all those stabilizers take to deploy for you once you arrive at a campsite?
@@rvgearandfar takes about 30 minutes. We have been working to help each other. Tagged the sets with zip ties which helps for location. Was thinking about adding some large U bolts to rear so there are some points to put the stabilizers from front to rear. Also tried some while home and put a set on the tongue , although a little long it has made a great difference. Will need to add the U bolts here to and shorten the 2x4 just for the tongue. Reason for U bolts is to use the extended bolts for 2x4 to push against.
We have a 30ft Coleman travel trailer with the scissor style Jack's and our trailer shakes quite significantly.
These sound like theyd be tremendously helpful!!!
@@rvgearandfar I couldn't agree more!
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curious if you gust stabilized the back end of the trailer do you eliminate rocking?
If I was only using one set of stabilizers I can see the logic behind using it on the back only. Haven't played around with using only one set myself though.
How about wheel chocks, a set of X-Chocks and the trailers stabilizers? We have owned two Airstreams and two InTechs. Currently a InTech Terra Oasis. On any of my four travel trailers, I have never felt the need to do this. Stabilizers and X-Chocks have isolated our trailers to ZERO movement
Be sure to snug up your stabilizers after the first half day in and out of it as your trailer does settle a bit with suspension as well as settling on leveling blocks and in gravel mud and sand.
All four of my travel trailers, the past 30 years have hade manual 4 corner stabilizer jacks
I like the manual stabilizer jacks as well - in my other video they out performed the electric ones that came with my rig.
We run with beefy rubber chocks, x-chocks, and manual scissor stabilizers. I say manual, but a cordless drill makea it easy and fast. One tip is know what torque setting to use on the drill. Too little torque, stabilizer doesn't snug up. Too much torque and you stress the frame. Gotta find that Goldilocks setting. On my drill, it is 12.
Can this work for pop up camper as well?
As long as there is a good place to wedge the board it will absolutely work on a popup!!
a squared plus b squared =C squared.. LOL
gunna give this a shot
Here are dedicated instructions: Eliminate RV Movement While Camping with This Easy DIY Project! -2x4 Stabilizers How To-
ua-cam.com/video/ropysInhCbc/v-deo.html
What was the length of your 2x4s?
Right about 4 feet. Here is an additional video you may enjoy about them: ua-cam.com/video/ropysInhCbc/v-deo.htmlsi=VzqX2_fwsR10zqB2
What keeps the boards from breaking
They're not holding up the entire trailer - just stabilizing. Haven't had any issues with any breaking
Not sure it's an effective comparison if you don't follow Valterra instructions to take advantage of that designs ability to be positioned fore and aft in addition to side to side.
Not sure I'm following your critique. The Valterra ones can be placed side to side or front to back - since the 2x4s only help with side to side it makes sense to only compare them to the valterra's in that sense. If I put one valterra left to right and one front to back it most assuredly would have preformed WORSE in the left to right measurements, since there would have been 1/2 the amount of support with only one brace going side to side.
Not a fair test. The reason the DIY works better is the wood protrudes farther out from the trailer than the Valterra creating better stabilization.
Soooo... therefore the wood works better because of a better overall design...