Thank you again Ricky for sharing your wealth of information. I enjoy being instructed not on how to "make this project" but on HOW THE PROCESS works so that I can then apply it to my own projects. You are very well spoken and I am really enjoying your videos!
The glasses are a brilliant safety tip and I will be getting myself some. I find that the enamel seems to stick to the trivet yet yours clearly don't what am I doing wrong?
Kindly clarify when you mean removing the smaller grain what size do you actually end up with for the clearest result? I am assuming you sift out anything smaller than 150 ?
Hi Sr. ricky, i'm beging a proyect with the grissaille tecnique and I want to ask you...can i use colors pencil in white enamel or only work with graphite pencil.
Hi Ricky, thanks so much for your great tutorials. I'm new to enameling and am trying to figure out why you need to put a clear flux underneath the colored enamels. Thanks in advance if you have the time and inclination to respond. Best wishes
many transparent colors either look dark direct on copper or have chemical reactions (with the copper) which make the colors dark and cloudy. firing a first layer of flux generally creates a "buffer" layer between the color and the copper so that they are not indirect contact. i will make a series of tests to see how each individual color reacts under differing environments (on copper, gold, silver)if i was firing opaque enamels direct on the copper i wouldn't use the flux first
i have never done it but that doesn't mean it can't be done. Rio grande sells a small paperback book on enamelling, which has many back articles from old Glass on Metal Magazines. it's got tons of great technical info on enameling and i know there is a section on enameling on different metals. price is only about $10-$11 so well worth the purchase. it think it is called the thompson enamel workbook. it is a new product so if you can't find it online call and ask one of the reps or tech people to help you find and order it. good luck
Ricky Frank i just found some classes being offered which utilize enameling on steel. it is the northeast enamelist guild which has an annual conference in white plains, ny. march 20 or around that time. check out this link for info on the workshops offered: www.enamelguildnortheast.org/1289-2/
+Louis Barbisan you need to balance the amount of enamel on the front with enamel on the back. if you keep adding color (which you can) you will need to add enamel to the back, unless there is already enough there. i occasionally quench, but mainly when i am doing a demo for a class and want to move quickly to the next step of the demo. i always wait at least 20 seconds before quenching. my motto is: if i care about the piece, i don't quench it. the more you do to the piece, the more chances that something can go wrong.
+Sarah SS if gravity is holding the enamel in place, you don't need it. adhesives hold enamel in place so that you can get the piece into the kiln and the enamel melted without it falling off. it doesn't MAKE THE ENAMEL STICK to the piece. the heat melts the enamel and creates a bond, making it stick.
Generally, if there is more than one layer of enamel on metal there needs to be some enamel on the back to balance the stress created from the bonding of the front layer to the metal. otherwise cracking may occur. it doesn't matter which is done first. the principle is that the first layer (either front or back) cannot be too thick or oracking will occur. several factors could help determine an enamelists' choice as to order: firing method (torch or kiln), dome of the metal, techniques being used, etc. There is not a "right" way to do it. Understand the principles in effect and you will know what to do and when.
Ricky your videos a great!! I am working on a project using the overlay technique for champleve. I want to texture the back and top front. I am using sterling silver. Is it possible to texture it while also adding the enamel. If so what is the best process? Should I do it after sweat soldering the pieces or after adding the enamel? I plan to use a hammered texture but interested in knowing if I could do some texture on the rolling mill. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Hi There, Thanks for your questions. The surface of your work can be textured before enameling. A lot of jewelers enjoy adding a pattern with pattern plates before enameling. Please be sure to use extra hard solder to prevent the solder from reflowing when the enameling is done. Hope this helps!
In the video, you state that you are firing the flux layer "starting at around 1400 degrees, but it looks like the kiln is showing 1500. Did you mean to say 1500 or am I reading the kiln wrong (I don't have one yet so wasn't sure!) BTW, thanks for wonderful instruction!
Hey there, +4zengrl! That's a great question. Our Jewelry Tech Team believes that the proper temp on the enamels (depending on what enamels you use) would be between 1400F and 1525F. Most set their kilns to around 1500F. As you open the door and close the door, the temps will drop and rise, so you end up firing somewhere between 1400 and 1525. Lower temps may require slightly longer times, and 1400 may be a little low. Does that help? Let us know if there's any more information we can provide you with! Thanks for reaching out :)
Thank you again Ricky for sharing your wealth of information. I enjoy being instructed not on how to "make this project" but on HOW THE PROCESS works so that I can then apply it to my own projects. You are very well spoken and I am really enjoying your videos!
The glasses are a brilliant safety tip and I will be getting myself some. I find that the enamel seems to stick to the trivet yet yours clearly don't what am I doing wrong?
Kindly clarify when you mean removing the smaller grain what size do you actually end up with for the clearest result? I am assuming you sift out anything smaller than 150 ?
Hi Sr. ricky, i'm beging a proyect with the grissaille tecnique and I want to ask you...can i use colors pencil in white enamel or only work with graphite pencil.
Hi Ricky, thanks so much for your great tutorials. I'm new to enameling and am trying to figure out why you need to put a clear flux underneath the colored enamels. Thanks in advance if you have the time and inclination to respond. Best wishes
many transparent colors either look dark direct on copper or have chemical reactions (with the copper) which make the colors dark and cloudy. firing a first layer of flux generally creates a "buffer" layer between the color and the copper so that they are not indirect contact. i will make a series of tests to see how each individual color reacts under differing environments (on copper, gold, silver)if i was firing opaque enamels direct on the copper i wouldn't use the flux first
thank you! this makes a lot of sense. I appreciate the thorough reply. Happy enameling!
Hi there. Great Vid.
Is it possible to enamel stainless steel?
i have never done it but that doesn't mean it can't be done. Rio grande sells a small paperback book on enamelling, which has many back articles from old Glass on Metal Magazines. it's got tons of great technical info on enameling and i know there is a section on enameling on different metals. price is only about $10-$11 so well worth the purchase. it think it is called the thompson enamel workbook. it is a new product so if you can't find it online call and ask one of the reps or tech people to help you find and order it. good luck
Ricky Frank i just found some classes being offered which utilize enameling on steel. it is the northeast enamelist guild which has an annual conference in white plains, ny. march 20 or around that time. check out this link for info on the workshops offered: www.enamelguildnortheast.org/1289-2/
What mesh screen do you use for transparent enamels to remove the fines.
200 mesh screen will work just fine.
Question: How many time can you coat the same part, with different color, and can you quench it in water ?
+Louis Barbisan you need to balance the amount of enamel on the front with enamel on the back. if you keep adding color (which you can) you will need to add enamel to the back, unless there is already enough there. i occasionally quench, but mainly when i am doing a demo for a class and want to move quickly to the next step of the demo. i always wait at least 20 seconds before quenching. my motto is: if i care about the piece, i don't quench it. the more you do to the piece, the more chances that something can go wrong.
You don't use klyr fire or any adhesive - is there no need for it for a basic piece?
+Sarah SS if gravity is holding the enamel in place, you don't need it. adhesives hold enamel in place so that you can get the piece into the kiln and the enamel melted without it falling off. it doesn't MAKE THE ENAMEL STICK to the piece. the heat melts the enamel and creates a bond, making it stick.
Ricky, don't some people counter-enamel first and then do the front side? If so, you would use the trivet for firing the front side, of course.
Generally, if there is more than one layer of enamel on metal there needs to be some enamel on the back to balance the stress created from the bonding of the front layer to the metal. otherwise cracking may occur. it doesn't matter which is done first. the principle is that the first layer (either front or back) cannot be too thick or oracking will occur. several factors could help determine an enamelists' choice as to order: firing method (torch or kiln), dome of the metal, techniques being used, etc. There is not a "right" way to do it. Understand the principles in effect and you will know what to do and when.
Ricky your videos a great!! I am working on a project using the overlay technique for champleve. I want to texture the back and top front. I am using sterling silver. Is it possible to texture it while also adding the enamel. If so what is the best process? Should I do it after sweat soldering the pieces or after adding the enamel? I plan to use a hammered texture but interested in knowing if I could do some texture on the rolling mill. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Hi There, Thanks for your questions. The surface of your work can be textured before enameling. A lot of jewelers enjoy adding a pattern with pattern plates before enameling. Please be sure to use extra hard solder to prevent the solder from reflowing when the enameling is done. Hope this helps!
@Ricky Frank, I saw you use very beautiful transparent enamels in your work, which type do you get and where do I buy from?
In the video, you state that you are firing the flux layer "starting at around 1400 degrees, but it looks like the kiln is showing 1500. Did you mean to say 1500 or am I reading the kiln wrong (I don't have one yet so wasn't sure!) BTW, thanks for wonderful instruction!
Hey there, +4zengrl! That's a great question. Our Jewelry Tech Team believes that the proper temp on the enamels (depending on what enamels you use) would be between 1400F and 1525F.
Most set their kilns to around 1500F. As you open the door and close the door, the temps will drop and rise, so you end up firing somewhere between 1400 and 1525.
Lower temps may require slightly longer times, and 1400 may be a little low. Does that help? Let us know if there's any more information we can provide you with! Thanks for reaching out :)
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