it's because of people like you Cadbury's rose's don't come in metal tin's anymore i'm unable to make a burner out of a plastic tin thanks a lot btw i'm only joking great channel keep warm for xmas
Hi undercovercameras. I know its absolutely brutal. last year I made a burner out of a quality street tin and it got 500000 + views. Of course they all bought up all the sweet tins and I cant get any more lol. Here's a link to that burner. goo.gl/TtcjWf It went a bit nuclear but sweet Jesus there was a lot of heat and an element of danger..... Thanks for the comment made me laugh. Cheers Gerry
Jerry... I modified the air intake by configuring an interior sleeve inside the air intake about 1/2 " smaller dia., no holes and a flat bottom and flush with base of intake. Air now coming up and in is more intense and because my holes are in a spiral form the the burn spirals too.
Thanks for sharing all your ideas in making waste oil heater. Your system is the best by far to all I see. Most of the youtuber use fan to supply oxygen to the fire, yours is always simple and no need of any outside source of extra energy to run the heater (electricity, no matter what the system should run by itself without the aid of outside source of power). The other good thing you are showing is the way you build the system simple yet effective.
going to have a go at this design, I use a gate valve like yours Gerry, but I cut a V groove in it and it gives me greater control of my oil flow. Cheers.
if your cold air was piped in from outside you could get a cleaner burn I think by feeding colder denser air..also it would create a positive pressure in whatever room you had it in...stopping any potential drafts...I'm just thinking out loud but great idea.. it's simple and it works well..thanks for sharing!
Neat thing, that! One thing to make the flames stay together more and possibly make it burn cleaner by keeping the flame in the pot longer could be to stick a screwdriver in the air intake holes and bend them sideways to channel the air around in the pot. Think like a sideways cheese grater.
Hi Joshua. I will be posting more videos in a couple of days and I go into that in the first video I think. The chamber needs to be nice and sealed to get the air and fuel to mix. The other possibility is to force the air which means you can control the amount of fuel you want to burn while making no smoke. Cheers Gerry
+Marcel - Yes you are right, but you need Intake Air ://. Best is to have a Vent from outside in - Intake Air, that way the Air you have in your House stay in your House. So it's kind of give and take I guess :/
Jod Bronson I don't think I'd be brave enough to put this setup in my house. This is great for a shop for a whole bunch of practical reasons , ie: it's cheap and simple to build, it's a little messy with the waste oil, it can get your shop warm in a jiffy. This probably shouldn't be operated unattended. Most shops have plenty of make up air available just from air leakage around the doors etc. There are other waste oil furnace designs that use a conventional hot air furnace with a Beckett burner that's been modified, and a bunch of safety features that would be more wife friendly, for the home, but the cost to build it is way more, and its way more sophisticated. In either case, make up air is always a good idea, no matter where it comes from.
+Marcel LeMay - You are right, but there are no kids here :((( - Hahaha, I am going to design one that we will put it in our House for Heat. Currently we have Wood and Wood Pellets... But I have been suffering for years... I can't stand it no more..... Propane are expensive and we get used Oil for FREE from my Dad's work. Anytime we Burn our Wood / Pellet Stoves.... Within an Hour... I can't breathe :((((. So I am MAD as hell from suffering.... Die trying they said... LOL. I am going to make a SLOW Drip Oil Burner... But ALL ENCLOSED. I have been experimenting and it's going pretty good so far. YES, there will be SAFETY Features.... Like if anything gets over a Certain degree... The Oil will STOP Dripping... Aka Solenoid Valve. As for Oil, I will have 2 Tanks outside... 1 is completely Filtered and one is the Refill / Dirty Oil. Then I will have a Pump, Pump to an ENCLOSED TANK. I will also have an AUTOMATIC Lighting System as well inside my Burner. My tank will only have a 6" opening with a CAP to clean or Vacuum... That will be the only Access Hole :(((((. My Journey will NOT be easy, It's been 2 weeks so far, trying different methods etc... But DAMMMMMMMMM, I will die trying, LOL
Thanks for the reply Gerry. I did get chance to try my "old" existing marine stove. It's actually a French thing, by Deville, and designed for Diesel. I started it on "clean" diesel as it hadn't been used for years, (possibly as many as 15 !!), and having got it running, introduced old engine oil. The unit has an internal "day tank" and I very successfully burnt a whole tank of engine oil, without the faintest wisp of smoke, and a mainly blue flame, which on these things, indicates good fuel vaporization. Simply "naturally aspirated" with no fan assisted or "rocket" tendencies it's rated at 5.5kW, which will keep me probably 15 degrees warmer in the workshop this coming winter - at no cost !!! Without your video, I wouldn't have ever thought of this, so a big (and warm !) thanks !!
You could put a small 3"-4" tall metal box under the cookie tin /dog food can set up, that has an open end facing forward towards the air vents on the front of the stove. You can make the metal box with a 5 in hole in it on top for the dog food can and biscuit in to sit in. You can pull the metal box opening on the front side, toward the front of the stove by the air vents. If you make a metal box about 10 inches wide, 14 inch Long and 3-4 inch tall, with one 10" x 3" end of the metal box open for the air vents on the stove, and cut the hole in the back top of the metal box for the dog food can, you don't have to cut a hole in the bottom of your stove. Your biscuit tin/ dog food can set up, will sit on top of your metal box and air will be sucked in through the open vents on the front of the stove. Don't put as many holes in the dog food can where it faces the front of the stove, and you will get less flame and smoke blowing toward the door. Just make the small metal box so that the open end matches where the vents are on the front of the stove.
This time you didn’t put the brake disc what is the brake disc for is it for holding the unit in place so doesn’t move around or is it there just the heat to the system when it gets hot I’ve been following your design design so far Kors is the best going and I’ve seen hundreds upon hundreds call designs with Forced air in yours by far is the best
Nice and simple !! I built a tiny wood stove from a Store (floor safe). After much work, I found I needed forced air to run it but a really nice build. I may just cut a hole in the bottom and do this. At least it will work and much better than wood I'm sure.
Gerry gravity fed waste oil heaters through a needle valve can be dangerous if left unintended I wonder if you should explain to your viewers why this is. Maybe introducing 12volts to run a oil pump and a timer and a thermostat incase the flame every goes out would be recommended.
Well done well done call I can hardly wait for you next video calling 58 and then learn more of you in for five videos cause then all the teachers in the world cause the inks again you’re the tops mate
adding forced air will melt the fire box. better not for many reasons not to use forced air. I am thinking about piping supply air from the outside to the bottom of the fire box, so the combustion uses outside air to combust. my thoughts on this is that if you use room air to make the combustion, then the room must draw in outside (cold air) into the room. Will there be a reaction that i have not thought about? Will this work better or will there be a negative result from this design?
Great following your lead in build one, my question is are d holes in d burn unit higher than the rim of the pan, or are some high n others lower so fire heats bigger rim also? Second should I drip d oil in the big rim or on the middle section with the holes in, I'm concerned about d heat on my drip line
I've got propane log burner which I use to heat pool. I want to conver my log burner to waste oil burner with minimal smoke. All help will be appreciated .
Great watching you with exploring this type of waste oil burner. However, does this type of material (oil) smell inside the house as in your other videos shows you modifying and solid fuel burner/ heater.
Hi Gerry, THANK YOU for your time and effort and trial and errors Video. With your mistakes... I can prevent mine. I watched most of you Video on these Stoves... I will be making one pretty soon. Still on experimenting Stages :))))
If you set up your wood burning stove with a simple oil burner like this, don't put holes in the center can all the way around. Any holes that you face forward toward the Glassdoor will blow air and therefore Smokey oil flame at the glass door and smoke it up or send Flames out the door when you open it. You might just put tiny 22 caliber holes in the center can that faces the door and larger holes around the rest of the center can.
Gerry, i made one of these using your design and it puts out a ton of heat but was smoking to much. So i increased the holes to 12 or 13 mm and added a bunch of em. This resulted in the fire just going out. so i welded a bunch back shut. This worked but back to smoking. I'm wondering if my elevation of 8500ft is having this effect due to the lack of oxygen. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks
Great video Gerry ,I have made a burner like the cake tin model of yours, Out off 2mm plate . I burn used diesei oil, I get a lot of black soot up my flu and floating around out side . Is this because of not enough air to the burner or to much oil to the burner cheers Glenn. PS We do get cold winters in Austrlia.
Another master piece Gerry and so simple and uncomplicated.Quick question for you, In your stove have you a chimney damper fitted to deter too much heat exiting to the flue and is it lined with fire bricks or not.
Hi John. I don't have a damper and my flue is single walled all the way to the roof so I get some heat back into the shed. The section through the roof is insulated to protect the roof and then above that a single walled section. I have 4 metres of flue and I get great draught. No Firebricks. I only have a waste oil burner running in the shed and if I were to heat the house on it I would simply convert an oil boiler and run domestic heating and hot water from that. Much safer. One of my older videos I used a different type of burner with a boiler and I heated 80 us gallons of water in about 1 hour to steam. ua-cam.com/video/1Et3rIn5GIY/v-deo.html. Hope this helps Cheers Gerry
Hi Gerry, did that stove have a boiler attached, I have a old 21kw stove similar to that one but the boiler is weeping internally, I’m going to try to split them and weld up the hole, and use it for my shed hopefully burning oil,
What valve would you recommend instead of what you are using? Great informative video, I'm working on a rocket stove and trying to find a way to incorporate waste oil.
Hi Tepco Cycle Repair. The guys are getting better results with needle valves but the oil must be filtered. I think that the way to go might be a dosing pump / metering pump. The reason I say this is that these pumps aren't really influenced by temperature and viscosity (to a point.) You can set it for 2 litres per hour and that's all you get. With the valves as the temperature rise the flow increases. I will be posting videos on this soon. Cheers Gerry
nice video man. I made a lot off stoves (much smaller) working on this principle myself. They all run great. The only problem with waste engine oil in my stoves was the ash buildup in the burner pot. It blocked the air holes. How is your design handeling that?
Hi Marcel. I do get build up but these burner units are so easy to make its very easy to swap out one burner for another clean one. They are easily cleaned too. I can get all day burning no problem but some of it depends on the quality of the oil too. I can burn hotter with a blower version and it leaves less residue. I will be posting regularly and I will show a powered version soon. Cheers Gerry
Thanks for your reply Gery. Still thinking of a way to clean out the burner pot automatically. Especially using smaller pot ash and residual buildup is a problem. I need smaller pots for my applications. Mine consumes approx. 1 liter An hour. The pots need to be small to keep enough heat in for vaporisation of the oil.
Hi Gerry, did that stove have a boiler attached, I have a old 21kw stove similar to that one but the boiler is weeping internally, I’m going to try to split them and weld up the hole, and use it for my shed hopefully burning oil, keep up the good work fella..🙂🙂
Hi Frank. Have a look at the new boiler stove I made ua-cam.com/video/JHsNoqp9QAE/v-deo.html . I have a 21 kw stanley in my sitting room and I had it running on waste veggie oil. There are videos of it in the playlists. You might need to plate the stove if it was fresh water that did the damage. Usually a leak somewhere on the system bringing in constant fresh water from the expansion tank. Thanks for the comment Appreciated Cheers Gerry
Nice, seems to work well, what if you drilled another set of holes to give it more air?. Also saw in another of this working model you added a brake disc on top to give it extra heat. Abandoned that idea?. We use both Ozzies heater & Oil Burner´s , depending on our needs, they all work very well (we dry & extrude soya bean for cattle fodder). Will follow your experiments, good thinking!!
Hi Agricruz SA. I uploaded another video tonight with a different stove and I am using a brake disk as a heat sink and I have drilled more holes in the tube too. I am making a bigger burner tomorrow so I will post that video this week. Cheers Gerry
Yes, I was just looking at your latest Minion setup, which is much more on-line with our Ozzie furnaces. In any case both your burners work on the same principle, which is most interesting, I must say. Once you have it post-experimental we will try it out down here. (Argentina w/lots of irish descendants HAHA).
Hi Harry. Once you introduce forced air you can control the burn even better because you already have control over the fuel. You will achieve a hotter burn but you can cut down on the fuel, regulate the air and make a more efficient setup. I will be making forced air waste oil heaters over the next couple of weeks. Here's my old forced air burner and quite a few people have made one of these and they work great. Over a mililion and a half views so it's quite popular too. ua-cam.com/video/AiKcx7ghtHk/v-deo.html Hope this helps Cheers Gerry
Gerry, your a genius !!. I'm English, but live in France where you pay to get rid of waste motor oil !! After a few years of being a good boy, and oil changing my car every 7000 miles, I've ended up with loads of the stuff, and haven't ever quite know what to do with it !. I've also got a marine stove (from my days of living on canal boats) designed for diesel fuel oil, with an alarmingly similar burner to yours. I'm going to try it on a tad of waste oil and see what happens !. It does burn by vaporization, so as long as the fuel regulator can handle the potential muck in waste oil, I might have a warmer workshop this winter !!. I could, even, offer to remove other peoples waste oil for 1/2 the price it would cost them to get rid of it "officially" - warm workshop AND get paid for the fuel !!!!!!!!!!!!! If the marine stove isn't so good, I've also got a solid fuel stove sitting around "doing nothing", so, that might well get a "Gerry mod" !. What a brilliant multi problem solver !
Hi Absolutekarl. There are many burners but this is kind of a cross between a rocket stove and Ozzirt type burners. I made it just at the end of winter and it's too warm here now so I am flying paramotors and things but when it gets cold again I will be making some burners of different designs. These burners are really easy to make and easy to clean too. Flue length is important to create the updraught necessary to create a robust flame.Thanks for the comments. Cheers Gerry
Forgot to ask where does the oil land in the tin on the top or down the side of the inner tube on to the base of the disc, hope I'm making sense. Alan.
Hi Gerry, I've watched quite a few of your videos and I don't recall you speaking of this, so I'll ask. When you build your burner, does the size relationship of the burn pot and the intake flue matter, or you just go with what you have? I've also been looking at honeydo carpenter's work on rocket stoves and aircrete. You should take a look at his aircrete insulated exhaust flue. Seems very efficient. Anyways, that's it... Sláinte lad.
Flipping awesome, simple and it works, I can imagine if you add " forced air " as you said, it would burn cleaner and more likely hotter. Did you check any temperature readings on the outside of the stove ? Lust love your vids.
Hi Madd Macc. The Stove gets to 1000 fahrenheit and even higher if you want. With the lights out it glows a dull red which is about 550 centigrade at normal skinny flow rate which is roughly 2 litres per hour. We were working in the shed today and using 5w30 waste motor oil and it made a ton of heat for very little fuel. I have more videos made of this burner working in another stove. Will post within a couple of days. Cheers Gerry
Gerry you need to work out how to deliver the oil, in one video u almost had it, but haven't seen it since. That gravity system is bloody dangerous, and you know that, if people build the cake tin burner, light it and walk away from it, that viscosity of the oil is going change fast and flow twice as fast, and it's close to the heater, so going to happen fast, and they will end up burning their shed or house down and it'll come back on you. Use a waste oil controller. Gerry you need to start looking at the blue flame heaters, they never smoke, burn waste oil blue, and are hotter than the blower type heater. Cheers Drip Fed
Been watching you a long time Gerry, have to say well done mate I can see I will be making some alterations to mine soon, keep up the good work looking forward to a finished minion stove. Regards Alan.
Hi captianjesssie1. I burnt some today with no problems. I don't separate out the oil. When I have veggie oil I just pour it into the bucket with whatever is already in the bucket. The burner is not fussy so long as you don't have water or gasoline mixed in. Cheers Gerry
Oil is a bit better. I experiment today with Transmission Fluids.. It smells bad ://.. Give me such a headache! So if your stove is NOT completely sealed, you have to be careful burning Trans Fluid!
Hi Jod. If your flue is sized correctly and is sound and Airtight on the stove you should be able to open the door of your stove and all the smoke and fumes are still pulled into the stove and up the chimney. If you can smell the fumes you are in danger of carbon monoxide poisoning. Please be careful Jod if you are using this in a house there are lots of things that can go wrong. I can show you what I mean in the next video Cheers Gerry
Hi Capitianjessie1. I have burnt gear oil and hydraulic fluid with no issues other than getting it to light. Once burning it makes a lot of heat like the motor oil. Cheer Gerry
Hi Jessie, Here's a quick list of things I've successfully used as fuel in my waste oil burner: -Motor oil -Transmission fluid -Brake fluid -Two stroke oil -Differential fluid (cut with diesel for viscosity) -Diesel -Kerosene -Veggie oil (olive, peanut, canola...) -Animal fats (melted obviously) -Isopropryl alcohol -Gasoline -Carburetor cleaner I hear you can even use the mineral oils found in powerline transformers, but I haven't gotten my hands on any yet. Cheers! D
Hi Mel. If the stove in this video wa a boiler stove it would be generating heating for rads and hot water. Here's an old video I did with a boiler and a different type of burner but its the same principle. ua-cam.com/video/PaEOpqqPwgs/v-deo.html Cheers Gerry
Hi Steve. There is no fan. The air is sucked in through the bottom to feed the combustion. Here's it working in another stove I made ua-cam.com/video/tnzEDEpz3Yk/v-deo.html Cheers Gerry
Hi. The steel version that I make has a diameter of 10 inches and the removable inner piece with the holes is 6 inches in diameter. The spigot is 3 inches. Have a look at this video for more information on another build. ua-cam.com/video/ShTLaYKjzxw/v-deo.html Hope this helps. Cheers Gerry
What is better? with a removable cap or where the holes on the sleeve itself, and even the height of the bead in a circle, the height of the sleeve and the height of the cap, you would be very helpful if you indicated the dimensions and nuances thanks!
Gerry, please stop saying the same things over and over. Anyone interested is knowledgable and don't need to hear the same things a dozen times and more. Other than that... Thanks for the videos and keep up the good work.
it's because of people like you Cadbury's rose's don't come in metal tin's anymore i'm unable to make a burner out of a plastic tin thanks a lot btw i'm only joking great channel keep warm for xmas
Hi undercovercameras. I know its absolutely brutal. last year I made a burner out of a quality street tin and it got 500000 + views. Of course they all bought up all the sweet tins and I cant get any more lol. Here's a link to that burner. goo.gl/TtcjWf
It went a bit nuclear but sweet Jesus there was a lot of heat and an element of danger..... Thanks for the comment made me laugh. Cheers Gerry
@@GerrysDiy why dot you explain about what kind of metal is used on top where you put the kettle or the way you build it
@@GerrysDiy Right on Sir.
Jerry... I modified the air intake by configuring an interior sleeve inside the air intake about 1/2 " smaller dia., no holes and a flat bottom and flush with base of intake. Air now coming up and in is more intense and because my holes are in a spiral form the the burn spirals too.
Thanks for sharing all your ideas in making waste oil heater. Your system is the best by far to all I see. Most of the youtuber use fan to supply oxygen to the fire, yours is always simple and no need of any outside source of extra energy to run the heater (electricity, no matter what the system should run by itself without the aid of outside source of power). The other good thing you are showing is the way you build the system simple yet effective.
going to have a go at this design, I use a gate valve like yours Gerry, but I cut a V groove in it and it gives me greater control of my oil flow. Cheers.
if your cold air was piped in from outside you could get a cleaner burn I think by feeding colder denser air..also it would create a positive pressure in whatever room you had it in...stopping any potential drafts...I'm just thinking out loud but great idea.. it's simple and it works well..thanks for sharing!
Haven't heard of a ton dish for a long time takes me back to my granny's
Thanks for the information. I will be making me one soon. Good day too. VF
Neat thing, that! One thing to make the flames stay together more and possibly make it burn cleaner by keeping the flame in the pot longer could be to stick a screwdriver in the air intake holes and bend them sideways to channel the air around in the pot. Think like a sideways cheese grater.
Very interesting the change in the flame when you open the door...the combustion really creates vacuum at the bottom of the stove
Hi Joshua. I will be posting more videos in a couple of days and I go into that in the first video I think. The chamber needs to be nice and sealed to get the air and fuel to mix. The other possibility is to force the air which means you can control the amount of fuel you want to burn while making no smoke. Cheers Gerry
Since i change the oil in my diesel generator, i need to make a waste oil drip stove. Your videos are helpful!
I love it. Super simple design. No blower noise. Awesome!
Thanks for watching the video and the comment Marcel Cheers Gerry
+Marcel - Yes you are right, but you need Intake Air ://. Best is to have a Vent from outside in - Intake Air, that way the Air you have in your House stay in your House. So it's kind of give and take I guess :/
Jod Bronson I don't think I'd be brave enough to put this setup in my house. This is great for a shop for a whole bunch of practical reasons , ie: it's cheap and simple to build, it's a little messy with the waste oil, it can get your shop warm in a jiffy. This probably shouldn't be operated unattended. Most shops have plenty of make up air available just from air leakage around the doors etc.
There are other waste oil furnace designs that use a conventional hot air furnace with a Beckett burner that's been modified, and a bunch of safety features that would be more wife friendly, for the home, but the cost to build it is way more, and its way more sophisticated.
In either case, make up air is always a good idea, no matter where it comes from.
+Marcel LeMay - You are right, but there are no kids here :((( - Hahaha, I am going to design one that we will put it in our House for Heat. Currently we have Wood and Wood Pellets... But I have been suffering for years... I can't stand it no more..... Propane are expensive and we get used Oil for FREE from my Dad's work. Anytime we Burn our Wood / Pellet Stoves.... Within an Hour... I can't breathe :((((. So I am MAD as hell from suffering.... Die trying they said... LOL. I am going to make a SLOW Drip Oil Burner... But ALL ENCLOSED. I have been experimenting and it's going pretty good so far. YES, there will be SAFETY Features.... Like if anything gets over a Certain degree... The Oil will STOP Dripping... Aka Solenoid Valve. As for Oil, I will have 2 Tanks outside... 1 is completely Filtered and one is the Refill / Dirty Oil. Then I will have a Pump, Pump to an ENCLOSED TANK. I will also have an AUTOMATIC Lighting System as well inside my Burner. My tank will only have a 6" opening with a CAP to clean or Vacuum... That will be the only Access Hole :(((((. My Journey will NOT be easy, It's been 2 weeks so far, trying different methods etc... But DAMMMMMMMMM, I will die trying, LOL
Thanks for the reply Gerry.
I did get chance to try my "old" existing marine stove. It's actually a French thing, by Deville, and designed for Diesel. I started it on "clean" diesel as it hadn't been used for years, (possibly as many as 15 !!), and having got it running, introduced old engine oil. The unit has an internal "day tank" and I very successfully burnt a whole tank of engine oil, without the faintest wisp of smoke, and a mainly blue flame, which on these things, indicates good fuel vaporization. Simply "naturally aspirated" with no fan assisted or "rocket" tendencies it's rated at 5.5kW, which will keep me probably 15 degrees warmer in the workshop this coming winter - at no cost !!! Without your video, I wouldn't have ever thought of this, so a big (and warm !) thanks !!
be very careful.
I'd try cutting vents on the inside burn can with slots angled to spin the flame in a spiral effect to make it burn more efficiently.
very simple and nice thanks for showing a easy way instead of pumps blowers and lots of welding
No problem 👍
Man, I think you are on to something. Good work and thank you for sharing your research.
Very concise explanation of operation.
Thank you
مشالله تبارك الله ❤🎉❤
I really like this design, although I don’t think I want to put a hole in my little cast iron stove.
You could put a small 3"-4" tall metal box under the cookie tin /dog food can set up, that has an open end facing forward towards the air vents on the front of the stove. You can make the metal box with a 5 in hole in it on top for the dog food can and biscuit in to sit in. You can pull the metal box opening on the front side, toward the front of the stove by the air vents. If you make a metal box about 10 inches wide, 14 inch Long and 3-4 inch tall, with one 10" x 3" end of the metal box open for the air vents on the stove, and cut the hole in the back top of the metal box for the dog food can, you don't have to cut a hole in the bottom of your stove. Your biscuit tin/ dog food can set up, will sit on top of your metal box and air will be sucked in through the open vents on the front of the stove. Don't put as many holes in the dog food can where it faces the front of the stove, and you will get less flame and smoke blowing toward the door. Just make the small metal box so that the open end matches where the vents are on the front of the stove.
This time you didn’t put the brake disc what is the brake disc for is it for holding the unit in place so doesn’t move around or is it there just the heat to the system when it gets hot I’ve been following your design design so far Kors is the best going and I’ve seen hundreds upon hundreds call designs with Forced air in yours by far is the best
Nice and simple !! I built a tiny wood stove from a Store (floor safe). After much work, I found I needed forced air to run it but a really nice build. I may just cut a hole in the bottom and do this. At least it will work and much better than wood I'm sure.
Great Video. The Screen on MY Laptop is Melting !
Gerry gravity fed waste oil heaters through a needle valve can be dangerous if left unintended I wonder if you should explain to your viewers why this is. Maybe introducing 12volts to run a oil pump and a timer and a thermostat incase the flame every goes out would be recommended.
Try running it without the dog food tin. And just the hole.. I got mine work well.
Great idea!
Well done well done call I can hardly wait for you next video calling 58 and then learn more of you in for five videos cause then all the teachers in the world cause the inks again you’re the tops mate
adding forced air will melt the fire box. better not for many reasons not to use forced air. I am thinking about piping supply air from the outside to the bottom of the fire box, so the combustion uses outside air to combust. my thoughts on this is that if you use room air to make the combustion, then the room must draw in outside (cold air) into the room. Will there be a reaction that i have not thought about? Will this work better or will there be a negative result from this design?
Thank you so much..!
i make Luke Like you make,
one more time, THANK YOU ..!!
muchas gracias por compartir tu excelente idea amigo!! God bless you!
Great following your lead in build one, my question is are d holes in d burn unit higher than the rim of the pan, or are some high n others lower so fire heats bigger rim also? Second should I drip d oil in the big rim or on the middle section with the holes in, I'm concerned about d heat on my drip line
Hi,
I want to know how you have taken half a inch onto burner?
Is it cooper or metal?
It's its metal how you converted cooper to metal?
I've got propane log burner which I use to heat pool. I want to conver my log burner to waste oil burner with minimal smoke.
All help will be appreciated
.
funny: "to give up the ghost". That's exactly what we say in german: "den Geist aufgeben". Happy new year, Gerry!
Happy New year pipesmoker bemi and thanks very much for the interesting comment 👍👍Cheers Gerry
interesting burner design. thankyou for sharing
Cheers
Great watching you with exploring this type of waste oil burner. However, does this type of material (oil) smell inside the house as in your other videos shows you modifying and solid fuel burner/ heater.
Hi Gerry, THANK YOU for your time and effort and trial and errors Video. With your mistakes... I can prevent mine. I watched most of you Video on these Stoves... I will be making one pretty soon. Still on experimenting Stages :))))
If you set up your wood burning stove with a simple oil burner like this, don't put holes in the center can all the way around. Any holes that you face forward toward the Glassdoor will blow air and therefore Smokey oil flame at the glass door and smoke it up or send Flames out the door when you open it. You might just put tiny 22 caliber holes in the center can that faces the door and larger holes around the rest of the center can.
Gerry, i made one of these using your design and it puts out a ton of heat but was smoking to much. So i increased the holes to 12 or 13 mm and added a bunch of em. This resulted in the fire just going out. so i welded a bunch back shut. This worked but back to smoking. I'm wondering if my elevation of 8500ft is having this effect due to the lack of oxygen. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks
Great video Gerry ,I have made a burner like the cake tin model of yours, Out off 2mm plate . I burn used diesei oil, I get a lot of black soot up my flu and floating around out side . Is this because of not enough air to the burner or to much oil to the burner cheers Glenn. PS We do get cold winters in Austrlia.
i havn,t herd from you gerry
smoke is not enough air, too much oil....same as an internal combustion engine...too rich..
Another master piece Gerry and so simple and uncomplicated.Quick question for you, In your stove have you a chimney damper fitted to deter too much heat exiting to the flue and is it lined with fire bricks or not.
Hi John. I don't have a damper and my flue is single walled all the way to the roof so I get some heat back into the shed. The section through the roof is insulated to protect the roof and then above that a single walled section. I have 4 metres of flue and I get great draught. No Firebricks. I only have a waste oil burner running in the shed and if I were to heat the house on it I would simply convert an oil boiler and run domestic heating and hot water from that. Much safer. One of my older videos I used a different type of burner with a boiler and I heated 80 us gallons of water in about 1 hour to steam.
ua-cam.com/video/1Et3rIn5GIY/v-deo.html.
Hope this helps Cheers Gerry
John Regan I ethink
I gave you 10 thumbs up never mind One thumb up like a said yours is of both the best cause designing going
Can i use a cast iron gas stove and convert it to the oil stove?
Very Nice
Great vídeo
Helder Rodrigues
Hi Gerry, did that stove have a boiler attached, I have a old 21kw stove similar to that one but the boiler is weeping internally, I’m going to try to split them and weld up the hole, and use it for my shed hopefully burning oil,
Is there a way to control airflow to the combustion chamber for the stove to work more efficiently and how much oil does it burn per hour?
What valve would you recommend instead of what you are using? Great informative video, I'm working on a rocket stove and trying to find a way to incorporate waste oil.
Hi Tepco Cycle Repair. The guys are getting better results with needle valves but the oil must be filtered. I think that the way to go might be a dosing pump / metering pump. The reason I say this is that these pumps aren't really influenced by temperature and viscosity (to a point.) You can set it for 2 litres per hour and that's all you get. With the valves as the temperature rise the flow increases. I will be posting videos on this soon. Cheers Gerry
Gerry's Waste Oil Burner interesting, thanks for the info!
Great idea. First time watching your video. I am amazed at the way it works. Great job and well explained video. Thankyou...from Canada
i hope you reach 100k soon!
I have made one like this , I put a brake disc on top of the map gas bottle for a heat sink , a lot of the heat was going up the chimney and wasted
Hi Stephen. If you got that far you can make a more efficient heat exchanger to retain the lost heat. Thanks for commenting Cheers Gerry
nice video man. I made a lot off stoves (much smaller) working on this principle myself. They all run great. The only problem with waste engine oil in my stoves was the ash buildup in the burner pot. It blocked the air holes. How is your design handeling that?
Hi Marcel. I do get build up but these burner units are so easy to make its very easy to swap out one burner for another clean one. They are easily cleaned too. I can get all day burning no problem but some of it depends on the quality of the oil too. I can burn hotter with a blower version and it leaves less residue. I will be posting regularly and I will show a powered version soon. Cheers Gerry
Thanks for your reply Gery. Still thinking of a way to clean out the burner pot automatically. Especially using smaller pot ash and residual buildup is a problem. I need smaller pots for my applications. Mine consumes approx. 1 liter An hour. The pots need to be small to keep enough heat in for vaporisation of the oil.
Hi Gerry, did that stove have a boiler attached, I have a old 21kw stove similar to that one but the boiler is weeping internally, I’m going to try to split them and weld up the hole, and use it for my shed hopefully burning oil, keep up the good work fella..🙂🙂
Hi Frank. Have a look at the new boiler stove I made ua-cam.com/video/JHsNoqp9QAE/v-deo.html . I have a 21 kw stanley in my sitting room and I had it running on waste veggie oil. There are videos of it in the playlists. You might need to plate the stove if it was fresh water that did the damage. Usually a leak somewhere on the system bringing in constant fresh water from the expansion tank. Thanks for the comment Appreciated Cheers Gerry
Nice, seems to work well, what if you drilled another set of holes to give it more air?. Also saw in another of this working model you added a brake disc on top to give it extra heat. Abandoned that idea?. We use both Ozzies heater & Oil Burner´s , depending on our needs, they all work very well (we dry & extrude soya bean for cattle fodder). Will follow your experiments, good thinking!!
Hi Agricruz SA. I uploaded another video tonight with a different stove and I am using a brake disk as a heat sink and I have drilled more holes in the tube too. I am making a bigger burner tomorrow so I will post that video this week. Cheers Gerry
Yes, I was just looking at your latest Minion setup, which is much more on-line with our Ozzie furnaces. In any case both your burners work on the same principle, which is most interesting, I must say. Once you have it post-experimental we will try it out down here. (Argentina w/lots of irish descendants HAHA).
Gerry if you used a small fan to increase the airflow, would it burn too hot
Hi Harry. Once you introduce forced air you can control the burn even better because you already have control over the fuel. You will achieve a hotter burn but you can cut down on the fuel, regulate the air and make a more efficient setup. I will be making forced air waste oil heaters over the next couple of weeks. Here's my old forced air burner and quite a few people have made one of these and they work great. Over a mililion and a half views so it's quite popular too. ua-cam.com/video/AiKcx7ghtHk/v-deo.html Hope this helps Cheers Gerry
Gerry, your a genius !!. I'm English, but live in France where you pay to get rid of waste motor oil !! After a few years of being a good boy, and oil changing my car every 7000 miles, I've ended up with loads of the stuff, and haven't ever quite know what to do with it !.
I've also got a marine stove (from my days of living on canal boats) designed for diesel fuel oil, with an alarmingly similar burner to yours. I'm going to try it on a tad of waste oil and see what happens !. It does burn by vaporization, so as long as the fuel regulator can handle the potential muck in waste oil, I might have a warmer workshop this winter !!.
I could, even, offer to remove other peoples waste oil for 1/2 the price it would cost them to get rid of it "officially" - warm workshop AND get paid for the fuel !!!!!!!!!!!!!
If the marine stove isn't so good, I've also got a solid fuel stove sitting around "doing nothing", so, that might well get a "Gerry mod" !.
What a brilliant multi problem solver !
Hi Absolutekarl. There are many burners but this is kind of a cross between a rocket stove and Ozzirt type burners. I made it just at the end of winter and it's too warm here now so I am flying paramotors and things but when it gets cold again I will be making some burners of different designs. These burners are really easy to make and easy to clean too. Flue length is important to create the updraught necessary to create a robust flame.Thanks for the comments. Cheers Gerry
Forgot to ask where does the oil land in the tin on the top or down the side of the inner tube on to the base of the disc, hope I'm making sense.
Alan.
Hi Gerry, I've watched quite a few of your videos and I don't recall you speaking of this, so I'll ask. When you build your burner, does the size relationship of the burn pot and the intake flue matter, or you just go with what you have?
I've also been looking at honeydo carpenter's work on rocket stoves and aircrete. You should take a look at his aircrete insulated exhaust flue. Seems very efficient.
Anyways, that's it... Sláinte lad.
Give us a look at the back of the fire because it looks like you've got another pipe there
looks like flex stove pipe inside where or who sells this sort of pipe.?
Awesome,does. Your stove have air vents on the bottom?
Flipping awesome, simple and it works, I can imagine if you add " forced air " as you said, it would burn cleaner and more likely hotter. Did you check any temperature readings on the outside of the stove ? Lust love your vids.
Hi Madd Macc. The Stove gets to 1000 fahrenheit and even higher if you want. With the lights out it glows a dull red which is about 550 centigrade at normal skinny flow rate which is roughly 2 litres per hour. We were working in the shed today and using 5w30 waste motor oil and it made a ton of heat for very little fuel. I have more videos made of this burner working in another stove. Will post within a couple of days. Cheers Gerry
Gerry's Waste Oil Burner
Looking forward to more of your vids, keep up the god work.
Hi Madd Macc. Thanks. I just uploaded another video. Cheers Gerry
Hi Gerry. Just wondering how many litres an hour it takes to run your stove?
Gerry you need to work out how to deliver the oil, in one video u almost had it, but haven't seen it since. That gravity system is bloody dangerous, and you know that, if people build the cake tin burner, light it and walk away from it, that viscosity of the oil is going change fast and flow twice as fast, and it's close to the heater, so going to happen fast, and they will end up burning their shed or house down and it'll come back on you.
Use a waste oil controller. Gerry you need to start looking at the blue flame heaters, they never smoke, burn waste oil blue, and are hotter than the blower type heater.
Cheers Drip Fed
how do you drip the oil into the pan without it starting on fire, please show that.
Is there a reason every one uses a small bucket to feed the stove instead of a bigger tank?
Thank a lot....
You are most welcome Cheers Gerry 👍
Been watching you a long time Gerry, have to say well done mate I can see I will be making some alterations to mine soon, keep up the good work looking forward to a finished minion stove.
Regards Alan.
how well does transmition fluid burn in this stove
Hi captianjesssie1. I burnt some today with no problems. I don't separate out the oil. When I have veggie oil I just pour it into the bucket with whatever is already in the bucket. The burner is not fussy so long as you don't have water or gasoline mixed in. Cheers Gerry
Oil is a bit better. I experiment today with Transmission Fluids.. It smells bad ://.. Give me such a headache! So if your stove is NOT completely sealed, you have to be careful burning Trans Fluid!
Hi Jod. If your flue is sized correctly and is sound and Airtight on the stove you should be able to open the door of your stove and all the smoke and fumes are still pulled into the stove and up the chimney. If you can smell the fumes you are in danger of carbon monoxide poisoning. Please be careful Jod if you are using this in a house there are lots of things that can go wrong. I can show you what I mean in the next video Cheers Gerry
Hi Capitianjessie1. I have burnt gear oil and hydraulic fluid with no issues other than getting it to light. Once burning it makes a lot of heat like the motor oil. Cheer Gerry
Hi Jessie, Here's a quick list of things I've successfully used as fuel in my waste oil burner:
-Motor oil
-Transmission fluid
-Brake fluid
-Two stroke oil
-Differential fluid (cut with diesel for viscosity)
-Diesel
-Kerosene
-Veggie oil (olive, peanut, canola...)
-Animal fats (melted obviously)
-Isopropryl alcohol
-Gasoline
-Carburetor cleaner
I hear you can even use the mineral oils found in powerline transformers, but I haven't gotten my hands on any yet.
Cheers!
D
Hi can you add rads and boiler to it
Hi Mel. If the stove in this video wa a boiler stove it would be generating heating for rads and hot water. Here's an old video I did with a boiler and a different type of burner but its the same principle. ua-cam.com/video/PaEOpqqPwgs/v-deo.html Cheers Gerry
Remember! If water start to leak in the stove it vill start to burn too Mutch whithout any control
where is the air supply is it just being sucked in ?
Hi Steve. There is no fan. The air is sucked in through the bottom to feed the combustion. Here's it working in another stove I made ua-cam.com/video/tnzEDEpz3Yk/v-deo.html Cheers Gerry
FYI smoke was. Coming out!
And MOST of your heat is going up the flue.
There's a reason you've never seen that design before. Because it's not safe what so ever
Why
I'm sorri, you can see the diameter of these plates and the size. I would like is making them myself.
Hi. The steel version that I make has a diameter of 10 inches and the removable inner piece with the holes is 6 inches in diameter. The spigot is 3 inches. Have a look at this video for more information on another build. ua-cam.com/video/ShTLaYKjzxw/v-deo.html Hope this helps. Cheers Gerry
What is better? with a removable cap or where the holes on the sleeve itself, and even the height of the bead in a circle, the height of the sleeve and the height of the cap, you would be very helpful if you indicated the dimensions and nuances thanks!
@@GerrysDiy I am writing to you through the Google translator since I do not speak English, I apologize for mistakes and inaccuracies 😆
@@GerrysDiy if you included Russian subtitles on your channel it would be generally good
Gerry, please stop saying the same things over and over. Anyone interested is knowledgable and don't need to hear the same things a dozen times and more. Other than that... Thanks for the videos and keep up the good work.
You're going to cause someone to burn their house down man.
I can smell the cancer over here.