Following your steps, I fixed my Model P502ui-B1E. My heat gun only has a switch-selected temperature control, so I used the lowest setting for 3-4 minutes, took my dog for a walk while the main board cooled down. After re-assembly,I turned the set on and it's working great. Thank you!
Just picked one up from the curb during "bulk collection" trash day in my neighborhood. All the videos I have watched did the reflow (ahh the OG xBox days) mostly the one closest to the shiny cable. YOU were the only one I watched to note the 19v rail being mislabeled!!!! Then the cop siren 🚨⚠️🚨⚠️ I laughed. Thanks again for just that teeny tiny detail.
I followed this process and felt like it was the right repair to chase after a similar diagnosis of my M65-C1. My heat gun fan must be too powerful because when I turned it to high for the second step of reflowing the soldier I blew off several components and there's no hope of me fixing it now. Thank for you posting a great tutorial, I have faith this would have worked had I not just trashed my main board. Word of caution to those who try this, soldier goes from looking pretty solid to thin liquid faster than you think so be careful not to blow all the components off your PCBA... Im glad to hear this worked for so many people, I didnt get lucky this time. These mainboards (PN 715g7288-m01-000-005k) seem to be unobtainium
Thank you mate! Solution worked perfectly for my M65-C1 (7 years old, died with no picture this week) It's always acted a bit funny with random reboots and not starting up again when it gets too hot, but hopefully this "reflowing" trick lasts? At least it only cost me $50 for a new heat gun and not $2000 for a new TV! 🤩 *EDIT* Spoke too soon. Only worked for 10 minutes then same symptoms. 😭 Guess I have to look for a replacement main board?
M65-C1 Similar issue, no picture, no sound, no Tcon 12v, no Main LED, TV LED dims after a couple of seconds. Reflowed board and now working properly. Terrible manufacturing practices, both the board cleaning and the thermals are terrible. I expect this to happen again so I will probably have to mod the thermals. Thanks for a great video.
Update. My reflow was temporary so I went ahead and built a big heatsink to try to keep the IC as cool as possible ( the existing design is just terrible). Unfortunately that only lasted about 2 months and now back to square one. As I suspected, and from past experience, even with reflow the chances are that this will keep happening due to poor manufacturing practices and the board will have to be replaced. Given the replacement prices and that this TV is not HDR I will probably not fix it and sell the parts instead.
The “professionals” most of the time are guys just like you see on UA-cam. Quote “professionals” are so expensive that buying another tv is the best option. You are just paying for their rework machine to get the same result. . Lol reflowing these chips on a Rework machine is no more reliable than using this heat gun. They can go bad after as well . And that professional will likely reflow yours just like this guy did. Those rework machines are only a heat gun attached to a copying machine lol.
Thanks for the video! Is the problem with this model the BGA connections or the internal bond wires on the chip? Have you found other common issues on these main boards? I've got one on my to do pile to work on (75" version) that I hope to get to soon.
@@SOSfixElectronics Thanks. I will look on my board when I get a chance for shorted components. I’m also asking in part because it doesn’t seem that you reflowed the chips (i mean remelt the solder, add flux). You’ve reheated the board from the bottom so you’ve more than likely are doing one of two things, you’re warping the board slightly so that the lifted solder ball on the bga chip can touch the pad, or the bond wires inside of the CPU are warping slightly to make a connection again. Maybe I’m missing something, and I’m curious what your thoughts are.
@@FrugalRepair sometimes is just cracked solder ball under the cpu from the heat and bent board, if the reflow didnt work or the tv shows the problem again i suggest to change the board is not worth to replace the bga chip for me as a business, you right about faulty cpu
Hey, great video! I have the red right on the main board. The blue power light in front turns on and then dims away. The TV has no backlight or sound from what I can make out. Would you recommend reflow or is it the back light?
@@SOSfixElectronics Where do you check the voltage to the T-con ? You’ll see my other comment on my issue. The t-con is what I’m actually wanting to eliminate as the problem. I have a motherboard on the way. But I was hoping to get a result reflowing but i still have no picture after attempting a reflow twice. I have some experience on electronics & a tools like a hot air machine & this is why I was hoping to get some deeper component level testing info. I have no schematic other than on the boards themselves. And I have bad eyes where I’m old. Lol. So. 💁♂️
It worked beautifully, just as you instructed. Thank you so much for taking the time to show this and respond to all of us! Assuming it happens again (and I can't find a reasonable replacement), can I just keep reflowing it again and again?
@@SOSfixElectronics I’ve tried reflowing mine twice. It’s stuck in the reboot it seems. They are many versions of this board,I don’t know why people is saying they can’t find them. Complete kits for the model number is always out of stock . But people needs to learn to do searches on the board numbers themselves. Even if one number in the middle of the series is off by one digit it is because of an option missing and possibly not something their original board had to begin with. But , Back to my question. Lol Would that mean I have one of the two IC’s bad ? I flowed my chips and it went from being stuck in reboot mode to just not working & the standby light fading. Btw. My version of board looks exactly the same but doesn’t have the light on the board itself. It has no board light. I’m looking for a good trouble shooting vid on this. Yours is always good. You truly are one of the best Component level guys on UA-cam. You have been helping me for yrs. lol
My TV has no sound, no image, but shows signs of power. Symptoms: Plug power cable in. Red standby LED turns on. Hold power button for a few seconds, light turns blue. A few seconds after turning blue, a component on the power board starts producing a constant sound. I've checked voltages on some parts of the main board and can see the correct voltages (5, 12 and 24V can be seen present). The main board seems to be receiving power, just no image. There's no backlight at all. No sound from built-in or external speakers. If I leave the TV on for a while, it'll go on standby again. This takes a while to happen. The TV I have is the BAUHN B55-64UHDF-1117. I don't know the history of this TV as it was found dumped in the street near my home. I took it as I was curious if it perhaps had an easy fix. I'm trying to determine where the fault is right now. It has 3 boards. A T-CON, Main and Power supply. The T-CON connects to the main board and can be removed. The Novatek chip on the T-CON heats up when it's getting power (blue light). I assume this means it's working rather than faulty. Here's an image of the component (it's marked) that makes a constant sound: @t Here's a recording of the sound produced by the component: @t
i dont see the links, you confirm all the voltages from power board present and stable? can you check the tcon input voltage by fuse must be 12v and check the fuse if good? after the tv turns on get a good flash light on the screen check for the image you may click on menu the check , if you have the image but it is dark must be a bad backlight
My M65-C1 was playing content, went blank, came back and then went dark. I get the V logo and then nothing. Reboot cycles every minute or so with the power LED and the backpanel LEDs coming on and then going off. Voltages on the PS appear stable (19v), BUT I noticed that I don't have the LEDs on my main board! There are pads, but no LEDs! Oversight or just being super cheap? I get 5v on the left pads (the blue LED position?) and nothing on the right set of pads. Heatsink is hot. Any tips on the best way to remove the thermal gap pads without leaving chunks on the board? I got the pink ones off, but had to remove some stuck on the PCB. The ones using gray pads (sandwiching a piece of metal) are more stubborn.
Thanks for the video. At least I can try and fix my TV before buying a new one. I have the same issue as in this video except I get .1 voltage from the on off switch. When I took the board off though mine had two pink squares on the bottom one of which covered the backside of one of the chips and a huge heat sink covering the other chip. All three were stuck on with adhesive. Removing the pink squares was a little messy so figure I'll need to clean that off before reflowing. My board also looked crusty, like salt water got on it. That crust is only on the bottom of the board not on the top. Is that some sort of flux?
i think thats is from the company left over from washing the board, the pink squire is a thermal pad, after reflow use the pad or thermal paste between the chip and heat sink
@@SOSfixElectronics I'm having the exact same issue as Kirsten. I get .1v from the on/off. I got a used main board from Ebay, but when I fire up the TV with it, now the power board chirps like a bird and there's no red or blue light on the main board! What do you think that means about the used main board I got? I don't have a heat gun, so I haven't tried to reflow yet.
@@dinorossi4543 the noise from power board mean there is a short somewhere. if you have that noise with new mainboard only could be the new board you received is defective
This 0:19 light in my tv is off. When I plug the tv, the light at bottom right corner turns on, Vizio logo comes on the screen for little while and then turns off. The Back lights are working. What do I need to do to fix it please help!
I have a question for you, I have a VIZIO M65-C1 M-Series - 65" Class (64.5" viewable) LED-backlit LCD TV - 4K television that I got from my mom. The picture is black but there is audio. What do you think the problem is ? I would love to fix this myself. She said she was watching tv and out of no where the screen went pitch black and Audio stayed. Do you think I need to replace the main board
I have the same issue as described above, no picture but I have audio. I can't find any images even with a flashlight. Is it the main board? I can reflow since I have a heatgun.
@@SOSfixElectronics Not sure how to check that. I get the main white light to power on and if I look in on the side of main board I can see a solid blue/purple light. It is also randomly turning itself on and off too.
@@SOSfixElectronics I was able to test that and I don't get any voltage from the tcon board when it is powered on. So, is the panel just bad and I need a new TV?
Would anyone here who praises that approach report if the board still works 1 month later? Because from what I know about what goes bad - and I dare say I know some things - I would bet my lunch such solution may often last less than a few hours let alone a full month. The boards are very sensitive to mechanical deformations (warping) and the heat gun on the picture is a whole lot more likely to induce additional damage than correct a detached solder joint on a BGA. A whole more heat applied on both sides is needed for that and that comes with its own issues. Many boards with BGA problems would work when heated due to the expansion of the materials and restoration of the contact, but that would go out as the temperature goes down or - at best - a few days later. Not willing to spoil anyone's party, it's just what I know from a long long experience fixing BGAs.
So you have a rework machine then & do this type of work ,but not on TV’s as much ? Of course. It is apples and oranges in the component level,but they are usage differences that does make differences in what these are inside of. You are right on most of what you said. But no. I see most TV’s can last yrs if reflowing them well. Some has not lasted hrs or days. But you’ll notice a difference in those guys & people like this tech here. So yeah. You are right on the possibilities. But not on the overall results. I too do small electrics repair. A lot of these boards people has been buying for the last 2 or 3 yrs are reflowed /refurbished boards. And many lasts yrs. For example. Some of the results depends on how long people put up with the tv taking time to heat up & do what you referred to as “heating up and expanding “ to get connections & the tv coming on as a possible problem. Because these chips heats wayyy up more & hotter when the symptoms are that the tv comes on after waiting a few mins. I have heard of people waiting as much as two hrs after putting up with this problem starting at a couple of mins to come on and progressively taking longer. These people are or have cooked their boards /gpu’s to the point where they are gonna be no good even after reflowing. So it does depend on the symptoms and the users procrastination of how long it might last. lol. Because they do keep on heating up after being flowed but not as long as before. And you know the gpu can only take this for so long regardless if a problem existed to begin with. Meaning the life expectancy is shortened because of the constant prolong heating that can cause shorter life & not have anything to do with the reflow job done to fix the issue. I am working on one of those procrastinators TV’s now. lol. The gpu is cooked. A reflow didn’t work & they need a new motherboard board. Lol. But I expect to tv will last them another 8 yrs. Contingent upon they don’t live with another issue of bad soldering. Because i have seen new boards have the same quality standards. Although ,most boards gotten for this and other TV’s using versions of the same mother board are refurbished from either one of the two bad IC’s going out initially,to having a bad HDMI that led to the board being refurbished & traded in ,so the gpu hadn’t shown itself of having a issue yet. That only needs a few heat cycles to show itself after being used for a second or third time even. So. Yeah. Some of what you mentioned does have other depending variables
@Chon-c I am sorry, that was a very very long response saying very very little in terms of valuable information. We've done easily thousands of reflow and replacements in the past 10 years. This particular board CAN NOT be reflown with a mere heat gun, let alone properly, i.e. evenly. It is hard to do even with a decent machine. like many other BGAs heat does make it work due to ball expansion and/or warping sufficient to make contact. then it quickly loses it again.
@@coppelltvrepair My comment was still shorter than yours and has more RELEVANT information. Lol. I can tell you have soft feelings from that diatribe and pissed because you can’t become Elon musk from “YOUR THOUSANDS “ of pessimistic crying. Lol You definitely read EVERYTHING I said. Haha. Obviously I hurt your feelings. Lol. Thousands of them has been fixed without a wework machine 🙄 You watched a fkn video of it here. This guy does more with a fkn butane torch & hair dryer than you with your bs based on appearance of hi tech & pride. Which I’m sure that’s why you are here. Mad venting your feelings because people can fix their own without being raped by you . It’s a tv. Not the space shuttle. 🙄 But I’ll bet you have you have flimsy beliefs based on way less EVIDENCE from videos the past few yrs than the pessimistic bs you spewed here . Lol I can only tell you. I can’t understand it for you too. Trump has ruined you people. lol. Yeah. That’s obvious,no need to say anything about it. You read every bit of my comment. lol
@@SOSfixElectronics hi sir just check my psu have 5v but once turn on no 12v and 24v for inverter board check also once power on can get 3.2V from MB suspect rectifier is bad
I have the same TV. I can power mine no problem but My issue is constant freezing and rebooting. I opened the back, there is no light on the main board and no blown resistors. Any idea on what would cause this?
@@SOSfixElectronics the issue seemed to happen more often when I used the 4K 60hz input. May have been overloading the processor. I’m taking the board off tomorrow to have a look
@@jkb462 you can use a thermal pad under the mainboard on the CPU spot to transfer the heat from the processor to screen metal frame. i have some videos fixing tvs in this way. check them if you want to know more
Hi How are you Sir ?? I have question ? I Got VIZIO M65-C1 with the same Main Board problems I heat the main b but only works 1 after I turn off don’t work again !! but I have VIZIO M75 Main board # 756TXFCB0QK0030 do you think that Main Board works on the Tv M65 -C1 Thanks
Hi, thanks for the video. For my M50-C1, I got another mainboard but that too does not work. The symptoms are: 1. Red+Blue LED on main board when powered on, then RED 2. Power LED comes on and then fades 3. If power pressed twice or thrice, the power LED on the chassis blinks 15-16 times. 4. Black screen, no sound, no picture 5. No backlights. Does this sound like a bad mainboard? I just changed it. Maybe, check voltages etc. like in your video? Thanks again for your video.
check my new video about this problem. sound like bad main. after you press the power button check the backlight voltage and the t-con voltage if you dont see these voltages sure is the mainboard issue
question, I have the exact same problem, however my motherboard does not have the LED on it.. is there another way to determine if the led would have gone from red to blue
I have the same TV and I'm having the same issue. Blank screen no picture but I do have sound. I do have the blueish/white light on the bottom corner. Any ideas of next move? Thanks in advance..
If you got sound. Your issue could be the T-Con or main board . They are a IC on the main board that goes bad along with these chip soldering problems. They are one of 2 IC’s that usually goes bad . And that’s been my experience when the tv has sound. But these questions is why I’m here myself. So I’m not 100% sure on this.
@@SOSfixElectronics the optical audio drive is emitting a red light, and the power light on the bottom of the tv turns on. The led panel does not turn on. Do you think it's an issue with the power board?
@@SOSfixElectronics is that labeled on the board ? This sounds like what my problem is on one I’m working on for somebody. I’m trying to eliminate if it’s a bad T-con . I have a mother board coming. But I tried 2 times to reflow the chips with no results other than rebooting cycle is not happening. The standby light isn’t coming on and going off constantly like it was. I took precautions knowing the user having issues for a couple of yrs & it having to heat up to get a connection before the tv would come on. So I assumed a cooked cpu would be a potential problem when the tv finally quit coming on. lol. So while I am waiting on a board to come, I thought I’d get a short term fix to get it working until the new board comes. Well. The reflowing hasn’t worked & so I’m trying to make sure it’s not a bad t -con or one of the IC’s shorting because the symptoms can be the same . How could I trouble shoot this ? I have some experience & tools for what you may suggest btw.
Following your steps, I fixed my Model P502ui-B1E. My heat gun only has a switch-selected temperature control, so I used the lowest setting for 3-4 minutes, took my dog for a walk while the main board cooled down. After re-assembly,I turned the set on and it's working great. Thank you!
Just picked one up from the curb during "bulk collection" trash day in my neighborhood. All the videos I have watched did the reflow (ahh the OG xBox days) mostly the one closest to the shiny cable. YOU were the only one I watched to note the 19v rail being mislabeled!!!! Then the cop siren 🚨⚠️🚨⚠️ I laughed. Thanks again for just that teeny tiny detail.
I followed this process and felt like it was the right repair to chase after a similar diagnosis of my M65-C1. My heat gun fan must be too powerful because when I turned it to high for the second step of reflowing the soldier I blew off several components and there's no hope of me fixing it now. Thank for you posting a great tutorial, I have faith this would have worked had I not just trashed my main board. Word of caution to those who try this, soldier goes from looking pretty solid to thin liquid faster than you think so be careful not to blow all the components off your PCBA...
Im glad to hear this worked for so many people, I didnt get lucky this time. These mainboards (PN 715g7288-m01-000-005k) seem to be unobtainium
Many thanks! Was offered a M65-C1 for free if I could fix it, after 25 minutes, works like it should!
Thank you mate! Solution worked perfectly for my M65-C1 (7 years old, died with no picture this week)
It's always acted a bit funny with random reboots and not starting up again when it gets too hot, but hopefully this "reflowing" trick lasts?
At least it only cost me $50 for a new heat gun and not $2000 for a new TV! 🤩
*EDIT*
Spoke too soon. Only worked for 10 minutes then same symptoms. 😭
Guess I have to look for a replacement main board?
Worked perfectly on my M75-C1 model. Thank you.
Worked perfectly on mine too! Thank you so much! If it does it again I will replace the board. Thank you again!
Amazing! Saved me $150 and now I have a heat gun :-) thanks so much!!!
What type of heat gun, please send link, thanks.
Thats amazing! No parts required fix!
This works! 30 minutes and it’s fixed! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Holy shit, it worked. I'm now going to have a kick ass TV for my shop since we'd already replaced it.
M65-C1 Similar issue, no picture, no sound, no Tcon 12v, no Main LED, TV LED dims after a couple of seconds. Reflowed board and now working properly.
Terrible manufacturing practices, both the board cleaning and the thermals are terrible. I expect this to happen again so I will probably have to mod the thermals.
Thanks for a great video.
Update. My reflow was temporary so I went ahead and built a big heatsink to try to keep the IC as cool as possible ( the existing design is just terrible). Unfortunately that only lasted about 2 months and now back to square one. As I suspected, and from past experience, even with reflow the chances are that this will keep happening due to poor manufacturing practices and the board will have to be replaced. Given the replacement prices and that this TV is not HDR I will probably not fix it and sell the parts instead.
Thank you so much. This worked enough to make it usable. Best to get it professionally fixed but this definitely fixed mine well enough.
The “professionals” most of the time are guys just like you see on UA-cam.
Quote “professionals” are so expensive that buying another tv is the best option. You are just paying for their rework machine to get the same result. . Lol reflowing these chips on a Rework machine is no more reliable than using this heat gun. They can go bad after as well .
And that professional will likely reflow yours just like this guy did.
Those rework machines are only a heat gun attached to a copying machine lol.
I have some repair questions for a Vizio M65-G1
worked perfectly, thanks for the video👍👍
Thanks for the video! Is the problem with this model the BGA connections or the internal bond wires on the chip? Have you found other common issues on these main boards? I've got one on my to do pile to work on (75" version) that I hope to get to soon.
yes as shorted caps and missing some voltages, but the bad cpu is the common
@@SOSfixElectronics Thanks. I will look on my board when I get a chance for shorted components. I’m also asking in part because it doesn’t seem that you reflowed the chips (i mean remelt the solder, add flux). You’ve reheated the board from the bottom so you’ve more than likely are doing one of two things, you’re warping the board slightly so that the lifted solder ball on the bga chip can touch the pad, or the bond wires inside of the CPU are warping slightly to make a connection again. Maybe I’m missing something, and I’m curious what your thoughts are.
@@FrugalRepair sometimes is just cracked solder ball under the cpu from the heat and bent board, if the reflow didnt work or the tv shows the problem again i suggest to change the board is not worth to replace the bga chip for me as a business, you right about faulty cpu
Do you still do repairs? I'm in Tampa
yes,
Hey, great video! I have the red right on the main board. The blue power light in front turns on and then dims away. The TV has no backlight or sound from what I can make out. Would you recommend reflow or is it the back light?
do you have 12v tcon? check the picture with flash light
@@SOSfixElectronics
Where do you check the voltage to the T-con ?
You’ll see my other comment on my issue.
The t-con is what I’m actually wanting to eliminate as the problem.
I have a motherboard on the way. But I was hoping to get a result reflowing but i still have no picture after attempting a reflow twice.
I have some experience on electronics & a tools like a hot air machine & this is why I was hoping to get some deeper component level testing info.
I have no schematic other than on the boards themselves.
And I have bad eyes where I’m old. Lol. So. 💁♂️
It worked beautifully, just as you instructed. Thank you so much for taking the time to show this and respond to all of us! Assuming it happens again (and I can't find a reasonable replacement), can I just keep reflowing it again and again?
yes you can reflow as many you want, but more reflows less chance to stay longer
@@SOSfixElectronics I’ve tried reflowing mine twice. It’s stuck in the reboot it seems.
They are many versions of this board,I don’t know why people is saying they can’t find them. Complete kits for the model number is always out of stock . But people needs to learn to do searches on the board numbers themselves. Even if one number in the middle of the series is off by one digit it is because of an option missing and possibly not something their original board had to begin with.
But , Back to my question. Lol
Would that mean I have one of the two IC’s bad ?
I flowed my chips and it went from being stuck in reboot mode to just not working & the standby light fading.
Btw. My version of board looks exactly the same but doesn’t have the light on the board itself. It has no board light.
I’m looking for a good trouble shooting vid on this. Yours is always good.
You truly are one of the best Component level guys on UA-cam.
You have been helping me for yrs. lol
grasias amigo me ayudo tu video
you r welcome
My motherboard has thermal pads, do I remove them if I am doing the oven method?
yes remove the pink pads and put them back after reflow
My TV has no sound, no image, but shows signs of power.
Symptoms:
Plug power cable in. Red standby LED turns on. Hold power button for a few seconds, light turns blue. A few seconds after turning blue, a component on the power board starts producing a constant sound. I've checked voltages on some parts of the main board and can see the correct voltages (5, 12 and 24V can be seen present). The main board seems to be receiving power, just no image. There's no backlight at all. No sound from built-in or external speakers. If I leave the TV on for a while, it'll go on standby again. This takes a while to happen.
The TV I have is the BAUHN B55-64UHDF-1117. I don't know the history of this TV as it was found dumped in the street near my home. I took it as I was curious if it perhaps had an easy fix. I'm trying to determine where the fault is right now. It has 3 boards. A T-CON, Main and Power supply. The T-CON connects to the main board and can be removed. The Novatek chip on the T-CON heats up when it's getting power (blue light). I assume this means it's working rather than faulty.
Here's an image of the component (it's marked) that makes a constant sound: @t
Here's a recording of the sound produced by the component: @t
i dont see the links, you confirm all the voltages from power board present and stable?
can you check the tcon input voltage by fuse must be 12v and check the fuse if good?
after the tv turns on get a good flash light on the screen check for the image you may click on menu the check , if you have the image but it is dark must be a bad backlight
My M65-C1 was playing content, went blank, came back and then went dark. I get the V logo and then nothing. Reboot cycles every minute or so with the power LED and the backpanel LEDs coming on and then going off. Voltages on the PS appear stable (19v), BUT I noticed that I don't have the LEDs on my main board! There are pads, but no LEDs! Oversight or just being super cheap?
I get 5v on the left pads (the blue LED position?) and nothing on the right set of pads. Heatsink is hot.
Any tips on the best way to remove the thermal gap pads without leaving chunks on the board? I got the pink ones off, but had to remove some stuck on the PCB. The ones using gray pads (sandwiching a piece of metal) are more stubborn.
Hello, Any suggestoin as why the LED on the main board does not come on? not blue nor red...
Thank you so much Brother, good job, my TV is working again. Thanks. Where’s you located?
tampa
Thanks for the video. At least I can try and fix my TV before buying a new one.
I have the same issue as in this video except I get .1 voltage from the on off switch. When I took the board off though mine had two pink squares on the bottom one of which covered the backside of one of the chips and a huge heat sink covering the other chip. All three were stuck on with adhesive. Removing the pink squares was a little messy so figure I'll need to clean that off before reflowing. My board also looked crusty, like salt water got on it. That crust is only on the bottom of the board not on the top. Is that some sort of flux?
i think thats is from the company left over from washing the board, the pink squire is a thermal pad, after reflow use the pad or thermal paste between the chip and heat sink
@@SOSfixElectronics I'm having the exact same issue as Kirsten. I get .1v from the on/off. I got a used main board from Ebay, but when I fire up the TV with it, now the power board chirps like a bird and there's no red or blue light on the main board! What do you think that means about the used main board I got?
I don't have a heat gun, so I haven't tried to reflow yet.
@@dinorossi4543 the noise from power board mean there is a short somewhere. if you have that noise with new mainboard only could be the new board you received is defective
@@SOSfixElectronics Really appreciate the guidance. I'll be patiently waiting for a good one to become available! Cheers!
This 0:19 light in my tv is off. When I plug the tv, the light at bottom right corner turns on, Vizio logo comes on the screen for little while and then turns off. The Back lights are working. What do I need to do to fix it please help!
I have a question for you, I have a VIZIO M65-C1 M-Series - 65" Class (64.5" viewable) LED-backlit LCD TV - 4K television that I got from my mom. The picture is black but there is audio. What do you think the problem is ? I would love to fix this myself. She said she was watching tv and out of no where the screen went pitch black and Audio stayed. Do you think I need to replace the main board
turns the tv on get a flash light and check if you have the picture but it is very dark
I have the same issue as described above, no picture but I have audio. I can't find any images even with a flashlight. Is it the main board? I can reflow since I have a heatgun.
@@brianbergstrom7464 do you get the 12v tcon?
@@SOSfixElectronics Not sure how to check that. I get the main white light to power on and if I look in on the side of main board I can see a solid blue/purple light. It is also randomly turning itself on and off too.
@@SOSfixElectronics I was able to test that and I don't get any voltage from the tcon board when it is powered on. So, is the panel just bad and I need a new TV?
Good Video!
Would anyone here who praises that approach report if the board still works 1 month later? Because from what I know about what goes bad - and I dare say I know some things - I would bet my lunch such solution may often last less than a few hours let alone a full month. The boards are very sensitive to mechanical deformations (warping) and the heat gun on the picture is a whole lot more likely to induce additional damage than correct a detached solder joint on a BGA. A whole more heat applied on both sides is needed for that and that comes with its own issues.
Many boards with BGA problems would work when heated due to the expansion of the materials and restoration of the contact, but that would go out as the temperature goes down or - at best - a few days later.
Not willing to spoil anyone's party, it's just what I know from a long long experience fixing BGAs.
So you have a rework machine then & do this type of work ,but not on TV’s as much ? Of course. It is apples and oranges in the component level,but they are usage differences that does make differences in what these are inside of.
You are right on most of what you said.
But no. I see most TV’s can last yrs if reflowing them well.
Some has not lasted hrs or days. But you’ll notice a difference in those guys & people like this tech here.
So yeah. You are right on the possibilities. But not on the overall results.
I too do small electrics repair.
A lot of these boards people has been buying for the last 2 or 3 yrs are reflowed /refurbished boards. And many lasts yrs.
For example. Some of the results depends on how long people put up with the tv taking time to heat up & do what you referred to as “heating up and expanding “ to get connections & the tv coming on as a possible problem.
Because these chips heats wayyy up more & hotter when the symptoms are that the tv comes on after waiting a few mins.
I have heard of people waiting as much as two hrs after putting up with this problem starting at a couple of mins to come on and progressively taking longer.
These people are or have cooked their boards /gpu’s to the point where they are gonna be no good even after reflowing.
So it does depend on the symptoms and the users procrastination of how long it might last. lol. Because they do keep on heating up after being flowed but not as long as before. And you know the gpu can only take this for so long regardless if a problem existed to begin with.
Meaning the life expectancy is shortened because of the constant prolong heating that can cause shorter life & not have anything to do with the reflow job done to fix the issue.
I am working on one of those procrastinators TV’s now. lol.
The gpu is cooked. A reflow didn’t work & they need a new motherboard board. Lol.
But I expect to tv will last them another 8 yrs.
Contingent upon they don’t live with another issue of bad soldering.
Because i have seen new boards have the same quality standards.
Although ,most boards gotten for this and other TV’s using versions of the same mother board are refurbished from either one of the two bad IC’s going out initially,to having a bad HDMI that led to the board being refurbished & traded in ,so the gpu hadn’t shown itself of having a issue yet. That only needs a few heat cycles to show itself after being used for a second or third time even.
So. Yeah. Some of what you mentioned does have other depending variables
@Chon-c I am sorry, that was a very very long response saying very very little in terms of valuable information. We've done easily thousands of reflow and replacements in the past 10 years. This particular board CAN NOT be reflown with a mere heat gun, let alone properly, i.e. evenly. It is hard to do even with a decent machine.
like many other BGAs heat does make it work due to ball expansion and/or warping sufficient to make contact.
then it quickly loses it again.
@@coppelltvrepair
My comment was still shorter than yours and has more RELEVANT information.
Lol.
I can tell you have soft feelings from that diatribe and pissed because you can’t become Elon musk from “YOUR THOUSANDS “ of pessimistic crying. Lol You definitely read EVERYTHING I said.
Haha.
Obviously I hurt your feelings. Lol.
Thousands of them has been fixed without a wework machine 🙄
You watched a fkn video of it here. This guy does more with a fkn butane torch & hair dryer than you with your bs based on appearance of hi tech & pride. Which I’m sure that’s why you are here.
Mad venting your feelings because people can fix their own without being raped by you .
It’s a tv. Not the space shuttle. 🙄
But I’ll bet you have you have flimsy beliefs based on way less EVIDENCE from videos the past few yrs than the pessimistic bs you spewed here . Lol
I can only tell you. I can’t understand it for you too.
Trump has ruined you people. lol.
Yeah. That’s obvious,no need to say anything about it.
You read every bit of my comment. lol
Hi did you just re heat the board with a blower
yes reflow
Hi will try it and wilk update you thanks
Dont burn the board. Watch some videos for the right way how to reflow a chip
@@SOSfixElectronics hi sir just check my psu have 5v but once turn on no 12v and 24v for inverter board check also once power on can get 3.2V from MB suspect rectifier is bad
@@markanthony2853 disconnect MB from PSU on PSU jump 5vsb to pon and check if the power supply giving other voltages
Hello, thx for sharing this video. I think I have this problem, and need some guidance. What's the best way to contact you.
hello, just put you question here i ll try to answer if i know it.
Do you have a good source where I can get a replacement.. altho the the reflow worked..and my tv is back on.. it now is just messing up.
look in ebay.
I have the same TV. I can power mine no problem but My issue is constant freezing and rebooting. I opened the back, there is no light on the main board and no blown resistors. Any idea on what would cause this?
could be a bad main board over heated processor
@@SOSfixElectronics the issue seemed to happen more often when I used the 4K 60hz input. May have been overloading the processor. I’m taking the board off tomorrow to have a look
@@jkb462 you can use a thermal pad under the mainboard on the CPU spot to transfer the heat from the processor to screen metal frame. i have some videos fixing tvs in this way. check them if you want to know more
@@SOSfixElectronics ok I'll give this a try, which video should I watch?
@@jkb462 ua-cam.com/video/mbEPnQJR8zk/v-deo.html here
Hi How are you Sir ?? I have question ? I Got VIZIO M65-C1 with the same Main Board problems I heat the main b but only works 1 after I turn off don’t work again !! but I have VIZIO M75 Main board # 756TXFCB0QK0030 do you think that Main Board works on the Tv M65 -C1 Thanks
mostly if it has he same connectors it will works
Thanks !!
Hi, thanks for the video. For my M50-C1, I got another mainboard but that too does not work. The symptoms are:
1. Red+Blue LED on main board when powered on, then RED
2. Power LED comes on and then fades
3. If power pressed twice or thrice, the power LED on the chassis blinks 15-16 times.
4. Black screen, no sound, no picture
5. No backlights.
Does this sound like a bad mainboard? I just changed it. Maybe, check voltages etc. like in your video? Thanks again for your video.
check my new video about this problem. sound like bad main. after you press the power button check the backlight voltage and the t-con voltage if you dont see these voltages sure is the mainboard issue
@@SOSfixElectronics Thanks, which video are you referring to? Link or title?
@@vijayd8634 ua-cam.com/video/rakBPTljBGQ/v-deo.html
Mine freezes at times can you help
question, I have the exact same problem, however my motherboard does not have the LED on it.. is there another way to determine if the led would have gone from red to blue
check the tcon voltage 12v
Can I use a blow dryer if I don’t have a heat gun??
the dryer will not reach 300c , you will need a heat gun. or you can use the stove but cover the plastics parts with the aluminum paper
Heat gun $25, new Main $125-150. Your choice but I do not recommend the oven. SOSfix is right, it can be done but difficult to do and not as effective
@@datesterman thank you for sharing your experience it will help
I have the same TV and I'm having the same issue. Blank screen no picture but I do have sound. I do have the blueish/white light on the bottom corner. Any ideas of next move? Thanks in advance..
If you got sound. Your issue could be the T-Con or main board .
They are a IC on the main board that goes bad along with these chip soldering problems. They are one of 2 IC’s that usually goes bad . And that’s been my experience when the tv has sound.
But these questions is why I’m here myself.
So I’m not 100% sure on this.
Hey boss, do you know what the issue would be if the red/blue standby light on the mainboard doesn't turn on?
means the controller receiving no power
@@SOSfixElectronics the optical audio drive is emitting a red light, and the power light on the bottom of the tv turns on. The led panel does not turn on. Do you think it's an issue with the power board?
@@ananth.r check the input voltage in tcon fuse if there is 12v should be the problem in backlight. If not the problem is the main board
It looks like something on the power supply board says “sus”
My “BL_OFF/ON” switch is showing nothing.. what does that mean? My tv has no backlight or picture, thank you.
check the 12v on tcon board input fuse, if there is no voltage mean the tv still off, the main board has a bad bad cpu
@@SOSfixElectronics is that labeled on the board ?
This sounds like what my problem is on one I’m working on for somebody.
I’m trying to eliminate if it’s a bad T-con . I have a mother board coming.
But I tried 2 times to reflow the chips with no results other than rebooting cycle is not happening. The standby light isn’t coming on and going off constantly like it was.
I took precautions knowing the user having issues for a couple of yrs & it having to heat up to get a connection before the tv would come on. So I assumed a cooked cpu would be a potential problem when the tv finally quit coming on. lol.
So while I am waiting on a board to come, I thought I’d get a short term fix to get it working until the new board comes. Well. The reflowing hasn’t worked & so I’m trying to make sure it’s not a bad t -con or one of the IC’s shorting because the symptoms can be the same . How could I trouble shoot this ?
I have some experience & tools for what you may suggest btw.
👍👍👍
Hi guys, please help what kind of heat gun?
I have no blinking light on Mother board..
check the power board voltages
@@SOSfixElectronics do you know where I can get parts.. ive looked and found none..... m65-c1
@@boomerdantheman6516 ebay amazon shopjimmy tvpartstoday
@@SOSfixElectronics in looking now I had already no luck with 2 of those..
Can I please get some answers for a problem with my M65-G1 Vizio TV???
just put your question here may someone have the answer for it
scam
Not a scam at all, literally just did this to my tv and it worked.
worked with me on 2 different vizio M series. I don`t understand how you can call it a scam. Did you try it?!?