Normally, my eyes glaze over when watching more technical videos, but I watched your explanation with great interest. You're a great teacher! I'm looking forward to your future videos. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for the kind words. I wasn't sure anyone was actually gonna watch this video, but I was hoping some of this information could help people out.
I agree and I subscribed because I was so impressed. This presentation was very refreshing--technical but pragmatic, and just the right balance. Shows intelligence. Thank you.
Not exciting videos to watch? Anytime I actually find a video on UA-cam that explains exactly what I am trying to learn without fluff and bias it is an exciting video for me. Thanks for your vids!
This has to be the best explanation about the differences between the two types of batteries. Thank you so much for the rants and explanations that ai can wrap my head around. Bravo!
I love your calm demeanor while explaining things. There are so many channels out there that are just all about the hype and talk super quickly to vomit info out at the viewer. You make sure to take the time to help everyone actually understand the info instead of assuming everyone will just get it on the first pass. Thank you for your content
I made it all the way through and even went back a couple of times to re-listen. Thanks again for a fantastic video packed with excellent information! I especially love the info about Lithium being lighter, lasting longer, info on the heated batteries - since I am in northern US, and the Victron wall charger info. *Forgot to also thank you for the info about the alternator!! You are the best at explaining things...You have a true gift!
Thx Brian! You helped me so much by explaining all this to me with my build and I’m so happy with the results! You have a fantastic ability to explain things in a way that even a knuckle dragger like myself can understand!
I was able to pick up a 140 Ah timeusb lifepo4 a couple of months ago for $220 for my hiker. No problem keeping it topped off with minimal solar. Basically running a 12v fridge, max air fan, and a couple of lights at night.
And this video is another reason why I stay subscribed and continue to watch your videos. I am NOT a non believer in lithium, I just haven’t reached lithium level Yet. My $200 AGM investment is on its second season, if I get three years per battery, in a dozen seasons ($800) then my $150 175w solar panel is a good combination for my campground camping. I think I have time to move to lithium. Thanks again Brian.
Thank you, I really appreciate that you watch the videos. You are 100% right, don't let all of these lithium zealots put you down! LoL like I said in the video, if you know how to use it, there's an incredible amount of value in AGM. I would say the next time your batteries go bad, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the new lithium gear, but no need to change while they're working! Thank you for tuning in!
Great lesson here Brian. I’m waiting any day now for my first LifePo battery, but was a bit nervous if I had to invest in a DC to DC charge controller as well. Now I’ll opt for your tips on bypassing the 7-pin and charging the battery with the on board converter. Thanks again.
Another great video, watched it to the end lol!! You have a great way to explain technical topics in an easy to understand manner. Can’t wait for the video of your 7 pin hack!! Just changed to lithium and trying to get things setup properly with battery monitoring etc. thanks again!!!
I will try to get to that as soon as I can, I have a bunch of videos out ahead of it, but I think it's an important topic. Thank you for watching the channel!
Oh gosh, I’m glad to run across this. Waiting for solar system components based around Lifepo battery….and happened to run across you video advocating lead acid from three years ago.
I watched the video you referenced and that was not my take-away at all. I've watched that video several times. I am now ready to upgrade the converter and battery and I set out to read up on this project and you happened to pop up again with new info. Thank You! If you set out to actually do a full conversion to Lith THE RIGHT WAY, I would be very interested in hearing your take on it all. I know it would be a bit expensive but I love my Geo Pro and as a hobby would love to pimp it out.
I really appreciate hearing that. I found that most people got exactly what I was trying to say, but there's always that lingering group of people that tend to be noisy.... lol I literally got hate mail over that video, pretty comical. Thank you for tuning in, lots of new content coming on batteries and charging , stay tuned!
My only regret about getting into lithium iron phosphate over three years ago was the high cost of entry. I cry a little every time I learn what the cost of yet another good quality LiFePO4 is. I guess that's why they call it the "bleeding edge." The Renogy 200Ah Smart Pro you have listed is only $50 more than my original Battleborn.
Very good and informative video, had to listen to the end. So glad you addressed the car alternator charging issues with the lithium batteries. You just described how we setup campers for owners when they want to step up to lithium power. Keep it as simple as possible and it will serve you well for a long time.
We should team up for the how to remove the alternator connection video. We'll let Lucía and Cindy film while we bang our heads on the frame showing color blind folks had to find it with a multimeter!
GREAT video Brian!!! Love this type of content from you. I’m a bit of a nerd about this stuff so maybe it’s not for everyone, but is nerds love it! So glad you’re in a new camper and “building it out” with your mods and upgrades. Gives you a chance to go through the basics again and reevaluate how the new technologies may have changed things from your older vids. I’m SUPER curious about that goal zero Yeti you have installed plays into your battery / power system. Hopefully we’ll see something on that soon?? Congrats on the new tiny camper BTW… She’s a beauty!
I can't wait to discuss that, it's next level! Essentially, I have a switch that can divert the solar from my battery to the Goal zero, depending what I want to charge. I have a switch that will power the camper DC off of the front battery or the high output of the GZ . I have an auto transfer switch that automatically runs the outlets in the camper off of the Goal zero when disconnected from shore power, and I use the app to turn the inverter on and off . It's set up to charge and use in countless ways, do things automatically, add to the battery capacity, and take the place of an inverter ... love it!
Enjoyed the video, thank you. My two 6 volts I bought in 2018 are still in good shape and I live in Albeta and we camp in the cold too. A battery tender goes a long way and I bring them inside in the extreme cold in winter.
You remind me of Michael Chiklis from "The Commish". Your channel is the best and I really appreciate your common sense, smooth delivery of information and usable knowledge. Also I am going to accept your challenge to go camping 15,000 times.
Thank you, it's been very exciting to spend so much time in the new camper! We did just spend two nights in the Bushwhacker as well… Just so it didn't get jealous
Keeping the Bushwhacker from getting jealous gives a whole new meaning to the phrase “a happy camper”… We recently returned from another >4,200-mile motorhome trip, so it’s time to put the ol’ BW to some more use again. Congratulations on your new Hiker! That’s a nice rig, and should be fun to outfit to your preferences.
Great stuff. Yeah.. I already installed a battery disconnect switch on my connection to my lead acid battery, so I can just turn that off when towing, but there is a seperate line that goes to the brakes so I should be good there. Thanks so much.
Excellent vid as always!! I'm still using my 2 vmax 225ah batteries in series with the victron shunt. Absolutely love the set up. Plenty of pwr with the solar. My new rig has a lithium controller. Only thing is the weight for me. Especially with a recent rotator cuff surgery. I think this fall I'm gonna save for the lithium. I can use the same shunt just need a charger. Love to talk sometime about it. Keep them coming brother!!
I switched from AGM battery to a 100ah LiFePO4 in our trailer once the price came down to about $300. I chose one with bluetooth, self heating, high and low temperature protection. Having an app to keep tabs on my charge rate means a simplified and less expensive installation since it eliminates the need for extra wires, fuses and a monitoring gauge. Gathering ACCURATE information was the most challenging aspect of the upgrade. The higher 14.4 voltage when charging a lithium battery can damage older Maxxfans so I installed a voltage DC to DC stabilizer. My vehicle cuts off the 12 volt power supply when the ignition is off, so backfeeding from the lithium to tow vehicle isn’t an issue while parked. I replaced my converter to a Victron charger set at 15 amps. From what I understand, my 130 amp alternator isn’t at risk because I only have a single 100ah being fed with a 10 gauge wire so the draw is minimal (I also have 160 watts of solar on my trailer roof) . One of the most satisfying benefits of the upgrade is running my 3 way fridge off of 12 volts while driving, and even though it uses 15 amps, I can drive many hours before worrying about a low battery. Anyway, it was a bit of a frustrating experience upgrading to LiFeP04, but I’m sure enjoying the benefits.
Like you said, it can be a frustrating switch, but it's worth it in the end! Do a little bit more digging on that alternator charging, you will find that you do want a DC to DC or eliminate it all together. Even if you have some headroom for the charge, it's not very good for it due to the transient issue we were talking about in this video.
Ok, so you convinced me now to switch to LIFePO! You explain things so clearly. Great job again! But to be clear on something, the WFCO 8735P will not damage the LiFePO? Its will only bring the charge up to 80% and then the Victron will carry it up to 100% and balance the cells? Is buying the WFCO 8735AD a waste money with its Auto detect feature? Thanks again.
I honestly think it is a waste of money. Just use the Victron at home. It will 100% not damage anything, it just won't top off the charge. When youhave shore, you usually don't need a full charge anyway. Let me know how you make out, I think you're gonna be thrilled
Yes, I made it through the whole video. Great perspective! I'm learning through videos like yours! You do a great job explaining WHAT we need to know about Lithium batteries. I have a2024 Rockwood 2516s with 400w of GoPower solar and (2) deep cycle lead acid flooded batteries. I am definitely upgrading my batteries to lithium as we want to do more boon docking and the flooded cells are not a good insurance policy. We have hauled our 2020 Lance 1985 and this 2516 for over 33,000 miles combined but with the 2516 and a 12V fridge we are much more limited going off grid. The Lance had a propane fridge and we could easily go dry camping for 3-4 days. I want to go with your recommendation of a single, heated 200+Ah battery w/BMS as we like to cold camp (Lance was a 4 season). What would be your battery recommendation that will fit in my 21 3/8" long Camco battery box? Thanks for all your expertise!
Thank you for watching. I will link a video that I did on the battery that I recommend, in that video description there are links with promo codes to save money. ua-cam.com/video/yWnqnuusz2g/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Great video and information! My solar controller will charge both lead acid or lipo4 batteries and I'm tempted to buy a 30 lb 100 ah battery to replace the 2 interstate deep cycle batteries that weigh a lot more. My question is - why not kill the DC power to the camper battery charger and just plug in the Victron charger full time? The fuse panel and breaker part of the converter will still function with out DC power. Then disconnect the power coming from the truck, my 300 watt solar will keep the camper charged.
That's a perfectly fine way to do it, I've done that many times. Since the converter/charger in your camper doesn't hurt anything, it's also fine to leave it connected like I did in this video. It might be 30 A, then can charge 80% of your battery pretty fast. You can save money by getting a smaller Victron to top it off in that case. On my personal set up, I just bought a 30a Victron and disconnected like you're saying. Truth be told, my solar keeps me topped off 99% of the time, shore power is very rarely used.
Couple questions. Can you expect the same kind of longevity from a power station (goal zero)? Do those power stations have the same cold charging issues?
The brand new goal zeros use LifePO4, same chemistry that we're talking about in this video. The majority of their models use a different lithium- ion sub chemistry, LI-nmc. I did a lot of reviews on Goal zero power stations where I discussed this in depth, it might be worth taking a peek at one of those videos. Li-nmc does not have the same endurance as lifepo, but I think it pairs very well with those power stations and wouldn't worry about it at all. Although a lifepo4 cell can last almost 10 times as long as NMC, There is no reason why you won't get 10 years plus out of a goal zero yeti X. Chances are you don't completely drain it every single day, they are a great well built power station. As for the other question, Goal Zero has the best temperature protection that I've seen in any power station. If it gets down too cold, you'll see thermostat on the screen and it will not allow you to charge.
great video for my novice battery knowledge. Looking forward to your upgrading your Hiker battery system and more insight to it. why you are doing what your doing and suggestions would be awesome as I am a AGM Hiker owner currently and might upgrade after your videos.
AGM is great, people give it a bad rap, but it does the job. When that AGM gets tired, you'll be thrilled with the upgrade to lithium. Definitely some somehow to videos coming on the Hiker !
Your excellent. Im learning but your teaching a little faster than im learning.....lol. i will keep going and by the time I have my 320 boondock purchase I will know whats going on......thanks your a big help.
Just found your channel, and subscribed. I love the way you simplify and explain the things above my head, and talk in a budget-oriented manner to a cheapskate like me. We have a 13 foot Scamp and camp in National Parks and National forests with no hookups. The trailer has six led lights and a Max Fan, and we run the 3-way refrigerator on propane. We have a 100 watt solar panel to recharge while camping, and usually camp for seven days or less. We've been quite happy with what we have, except I need to replace the 100 amp AGM house battery for the third time in six years. based on this video, I'm looking at the 12 volt 100Ah Self Heating LiFePO4 battery from the Temgot Sore on Amazon, and the 5 amp Energy Blue Charger. As a side note, when not camping I have always left the Camper plugged into shore power to keep the battery charged. Could I do that with the Energy Blue charger? Thanks for all you do!
@@DIYOutdoorLife, I just sent you a super thanks because you helped so much, but I have one more question. I disconnected and removed my old converter/charger and installed a new LifePO battery. I did nothing else. I have 12 volts to my interior trailer lights and refrigerator from my house battery. I can disconnect my house battery and use my 7-pin plug from my car with the same results. I can disconnect my 7-pin plug from the car, disconnect my house battery, plug into 120, and have power to my refrigerator and outlets. My solar panel tops off my battery and balances the individual cells. I want to be sure that nothing I've done will cause damage to my car's alternator or my new LIfePO battery. I want power through my 7-pin plug for my trailer brakes. I realize I still need a charger when my house battery's charge is lower than my solar panel will handle, but I haven't decided if I want a new converter charger or an Energy Blue charger. Am I still on the right track? Thanks again.
@@joerussell5241 That all sounds good. One thing to take a look at- your emergency break away brake Will likely require power from your battery. In the event that your trailer decouples from your tow vehicle, it’s the campers battery the powers that brake. When you disconnect your battery while towing, there’s a potential hazard there . Companies like Hiker trailer, provide a small battery underneath the camper that picks up this load, that’s very nice. With other set ups, you might want to run a small wire from that break away pin to your battery. That way you can disconnect the battery, run on the seven pin, and still have power to that in the event of an emergency. Hope this makes sense, let me know if you have any questions
Great video. Please show us how to disable the car charging cable. I don't need it and am just heading out for a long trip in 1 to 2 months. Thanks and show us your new trailer.
I definitely have to make that video, I hope I can get to it sometime soon. If you wanna try it yourself, it really couldn't be easier . Look up the diagram for your trailer side 7 pin, it will show you which wire is the 12 VDC +. It will also explain what all the other wires are. Follow that wire from the plug back to your trailer, and it's going to go to a small plastic box with a screwed on lid. Just remove that one wire, put everything back where it was, put a little tape around it the exposed end of the wire you removed and you're done. Hope to be able to make that video, but I know we're a little backed up on the channel right now so I don't know when it'll be. Thank you!
Made it to the end of the video. Though your videos aren’t the shortest I’ve watched, they are so super informative and I’ve learned so much watching them. My whole solar set up is so simple to use and set up and I learned how to do it from your videos. I do have a question though. Watching the video I think I may switch to the LiFePO4, disconnect the charging line from my vehicle alternator, and purchase one of the battery maintainers that plugs into the wall with the alligator clips or the rings. The question I have is, will my Renogy 100W solar suitcase charge the battery to 100%, and do all of the balancing and maintaining needed while out boondocking? Thanks in advance for the assist!
Thank you, really glad you tune into the channel. Although the Renogy suitcase kit is handy, it does use a pretty low end PWM charge controller. it has a lithium setting, which can get you up to a higher state of charge than others, but in my experience, it does not run through the absorption phase in the same way as a real lifepo charger, balancing the cells. If you get the clamp on Victron wall charger, you should be golden, you'll be able to get a full charge and balance at home. The solar will probably get you close to topped of when boondocking. if you want to upgrade your solar down the road, get a solid MPPT. Thanks again!
The thing that has really changed in the LFP versus Lead acid conversation is that you can get a decent 100amp hour LFP for $200 (including low-temp protection). That makes it a really attractive choice. Back when they were a grand not so much. It's not exactly drop-in, but it's not too challenging. I would recommend always changing the converter with lithium, it is not that expensive (if you DIY), and the original is usually crap anyway.
We'll see how things go, it's been an exciting change in pricing and quality. I still haven't found a good $200 LFP, despite the push from some larger content, creators slinging them. What's your favorite discount battery?
I made it to end . Your thoughts on the advanced AGM batteries that have the TPPL which stands for thin plate pure lead and can cycle down lower . That’s what I have in the Hiker . Running lights, fan and fridge it can go three days before it hits the 12V mark and I feel the need to charge it. It can safely be charged through the 7 pin as long as voltages stay below 15V , no DC to DC needed . The only bad thing about a battery of this type is it’s weight , it’s about 80-85 lbs . A simple suitcase style solar (220 W) can top it off when staying out longer . I don’t know why I’m not sold on Lithium maybe it’s because I’m older and I’ve always worked with flooded and AGM batteries.
I am with you, it seems like we think of this the same way. I have used AGM for years, including the modern ones with deeper discharge capability. They are excellent, no DCDC needed, cheaper... but we're still not going to get the other benefits until we go lithium. The battery you have is great, don't change it until you need to . But when you see what you get for the size and weight, you'll become a believer. Thank you so much for watching the video to the end !
I have a lot of experience with the propex but I went with the truma. I’ve been very happy with the decision, but I don’t think I could’ve gone wrong either way, both great tiny camper furnaces!
Thank you for this video! 2 Questions....1.) Would you LEAVE the Victron charger on their 24/7 when the batteries are not in use? 2.) Will solar with a Victron solar controller ever be able to charge the LIFEPO batteries all the way up to 100%? (I don't have a camper/converter, etc. etc. Think more tent camping.)
Thanks for the video. Just got back from our second trip in our new Hiker. 3.5 days camping. I parked in the shade and tried to survive off my 1000x Goalzero. I had to hook up the car and play cat and mouse with the fridge (C44). I finally lost power at 4 am on the day we were going to leave. I had been looking at portable solar, but didn't pull the trigger on a purchase. My Hiker has a kill switch that you can also flip over to where I have cables that can be put on a battery. Since my Goalzero was put in lengthwise I Cant fit a battery down there. I had the shelf raised and I'm not sure if I can fit one on the shelf and if it fits, I'll have to add a 1 X 2 board for weight load. I'm trying to figure out which brand of battery, how to charge it, how to store it and what gizmos I need to charge it with solar panels or just use it up, bring it home and then try and charge it. Worried about bricking the battery. I just cant throw down $900 for battleborne. I did buy their stock, if it goes up enough and I wait the 6 months for capital gains, maybe.
Do you have the 1000 X or the 1000 core? My recommendation would be to get yourself a good chunk of solar . Between 200 and 400 W portable. One ideal situation might be two of the 220 W units that I just reviewed. You could either string them in series or connect them in parallel for 440w. If you set up that amount of solar at camp, it would likely keep that yeti charged up the whole time . It would run down a little bit at night and charge right back up in the morning. 90% of the time it'll probably be charged up before lunchtime, but the extra headroom will get you through shady campsites, and rainy days. My suspicion is that if you did that, you wouldn't even have to worry about the battery . No moving anything or changing the wiring or getting a charger. It would probably cost less as well. Keep me in the loop, I'm happy to help if I can .
ok I watched this video again and here is my takeaway if I want to upgrade my Lead battery to Lithium: 1)disconnect alternator charger pin (dedicated video coming soon) 2)Buy and install heated lithium battery 2)don't mind the RV battery charger because it doesn't hurt the battery and will get it up to 80% 3)connect the RV to shore power at home like normal 4)before a trip, use the vitron charger to bump the battery up to 100% 5)install solar so that batteries are kept charged while traveling even without the alternator charging pin Is that it? almost as easy as plug and play! One last thing...my truck is a 2024 Hybrid Tundra that doesn't have an alternator does the alternator charging tip still applies?
You got it. You should be up and running in no time. Your tundra does have an alternator, it’s actually much larger for charging the hybrid battery reserve, I would still disconnect the charging wire if it were mine.
@@DIYOutdoorLife cool! subscribed and waiting for the video telling me how to locate the pin! One last thing, will my RV onboard battery monitor not work? I guess the new battery will have Bluetooth and can be monitored that way.
unfortunately, the onboard battery monitor will not work. It was designed to measure the voltage of a lead acid battery between 10.5 and 12.8. With the higher voltage of the lithium battery, it will indicate that the battery is full, even when there’s 25% left.
I think you’re absolutely brilliant when it comes to electronics, I am so lost with solar with generators with batteries I’m literally going out of my mind with it, I wish you were here in California I would hire you to set up my little teardrop trailer it would be awesome, I’m just trying to figure out what darn generator to get just to run my AC unit (The AC is for my dog on hot days after a long hike) in my Bushwacker HD 10, mechanically I’ve got it all modified lift kit big tires off-road hitch I have braced the frame Etc. etc. but when it comes to this electronic stuff it’s an unconsolidated nightmare for me, I did purchase a generator brand new over $1000 it was called a Generac & the day I went to use it, it was defective, I ended up getting my money back and trying to figure out what the heck to purchase, Here in California you can’t get many generators so I have to go to Nevada and buy one unless I go to a place like Harbor freight and I’m looking for light weight to reduce tongue weight etc. I wish I had your knowledge sorry for this long ongoing message but I do think you’re absolutely brilliant and now seeing that you’ve purchased a new trailer I’m probably gonna end up getting something like yours!!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words, we're all in this together! I still struggle with a lot of the mechanical and metal work, I was just trying to weld yesterday and it looks like a child did it. we all have things to share to help each other out, if we meet up on the road I'm sure we could both upgrade each other's campers. California is tough when it comes to generators. I do really like the predator from Harbor freight, for that price point, it's very difficult to beat. If you can get something in the 1400 to 2000 W range, it should be able to charge your camper and run the air conditioner. They make both sizes, both will work fine. The 2000 will give you a little bit more headroom and be less problematic, but you can get the 1400 to work flawlessly. if running the 1400, make sure you're not running anything else when you turn your air conditioner on, sometimes it's helpful to start with the fan and switch to low cool after one minute. This helps that 1400 not overload. The 2000 won't have this problem and will run a little bit longer on a tank. Happy to help anyway I can, feel free to reach out anytime .
Lol, I immediately thought of that video from 3 years ago when I saw this video title. I don't remember it being worthy of being branded, "anti-Lithium" at all. I remember it being a friendly reminder that new technologies come with new things to keep in mind.
Brian, love your channel! You've helped me understand a lot about battery power even though I've been RVing for about 15 years. I do have one question...I have a 2017 T@B with a non lithium recognizing WFCO charge converter. I also have 300w of solar with an MPPT charge controller hooked directly to the battery. If I understand you correctly I can use the WFCO when I have shore power and it will charge to around 80%. If I also use the solar package it can charge the rest of the way and do all the balancing stuff the WFCO doesn't? Then if I disconnect the charge wire on the 7 pin I've got a reliable lifepo4 system without changing the WFCO converter/charger?
That is absolutely correct! Although the solar can be more temperamental than getting the Victron wall charger, it accomplishes the job if you have a good one. Make sure to use the best lithium setting on your MPPT, sometimes it requires custom settings, dialed in exactly to your battery specs. Happy camping!
Hi - I have a camper (Winnebago Micro Minnie) whose supposedly "Lithium ready" with one of those WFCO Auto Detect converter charger. I have a Victron solar controller. I have a portable solar panel with its own solar controller so i can use the "Solar on the side" connector on my trailer. I now have invested in a 150Ah LiFePO4 battery that will allow me to boondock for multiple rainy days given my electrical consumption is around 40 Ah a day in warm weather (60Ah in the shoulder seasons, when I have to turn the heat on). My fridge is absorption, so very little demand on that side. Entirely tracking with the logic you've demonstrated in your video. You got me real worried with the 7 pin. I didn't do anything there and you've now proven to me that I need to. Is it as easy as finding which fuse on my F-150 controls the 7-pin 12V charging and disconnect it? Or should I do what you did and find ways to cut the charging wire on the pig tail of the trailer. That'd be a good video to have. As usual, thanks so much for your videos. You have a very special communication talent, very special, and we're all benefiting for it.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. Although I have been able to find schematics where you can pull a fuse, it's very simple to just remove the wire at the junction box on the trailer. You will be able to find the 12 V supply wire, and remove that in a couple of minutes. If I can get some time, I will make a video showing . Thanks again!
So, I have been doing what you suggested for a while. I bring my lithium battery in and charge it on the charger that is intended for it before each trip. I simply turn off the kill switch on the battery while I am towing the camper so that it is not charging from the alternator. The potential problem is the Dometic fridge, because it is not running either if I turn off the battery. I have been putting cooler shock packs in the fridge on my way to camp, but that isn't going to work on longer trips. I think I must add solar to keep the fridge running. The problem I have is that I really have no room on my roof for solar. I would have to put a flexible panel on the curved front of my camper, but I wonder if it would really get enough sun at that angle.
I think in your case, just pulling that wire that connects your tow vehicle will be fast and simple. I hope you'll be able to put out a video that demonstrates this. This allows you to keep the battery on, running your fridge, and disconnect the tow vehicle. What kind of camper do you have? Where is your refrigerator located? Maybe we can try to figure out some creative solutions that are easy
@@DIYOutdoorLife If the fridges handles didn't have to be removed to make it fit in its spot in the pullout, I would probably just move it to the back of the car and plug it in there. As it is, it isn't so easy to move, especially when you are a fun-sized person.
@@cherylbarrett3443 it should be very easy to disconnect that wire on ur camper, that would allow you to keep the battery on while you're driving and not have to worry about the hassle
Hey Brian, took your advice and bought the budget low temp battery, but it doesn't charge at all on my older WFCO 8735 converter. I can charge it manually with the charger I purchased from them however. I"m probably going to return it. Are there others you would recommend that would charge to around 80% with my older converter. Luv your videos. Have a good one.
Which battery did you get? My advice was to get a good lifepo4... lol Your 8735 will charge that battery . Often times, the battery has to be drawn down before the charger will turn on. Try using the battery until you get down near 13 V and the charger turns on. In this video, I discussed the need to have the lithium battery charger to take it all the way to the top. If you want to charge the battery, and it's up over 50% state of charge, you'll want to use the lifepo charger. If you draw the battery down around 13 V, the wfco will charge it all the way up to about 80%. Hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if this doesn't help.
Just finished watching your video, great information. I do have a question about trailer converters, I have lifepo batteries and want to change the converter to a wfco-ad converter, just wondering your thoughts on this. Thanks
If you can do it yourself, you can get it done on a budget and it's great. to be honest, I think I get better results just using the Victron add-on charger when needed. I let the stock wfco do most of the work, before a Boondocking trip, I put the Victron on for a few hours before I leave. I have an auto detect, new in the box, and I did not even put it in my older trailer... I just use the Victron when I need it. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@kevinturley6673 nope, it's a smart device. You don't have to disconnect the battery, you can use it and charge at the same time, you can even charge it at the same time as the other WFCO is charging... couldn't be any easier!
Made it to the end. So are you saying I can keep my existing DCDC and just use that small Victron you cited? What about when on A/C charging it in the camper?
Yes, you can even run them at the same time. You can run and charge from your normal AC power, it won’t hurt anything, it just doesn’t top it off. The separate charger allows you to top it off, when needed, and also balances out the battery cells.
@ @ thank you! This is wonderful to hear! That saves me a ton of money, not changing all of the internal devices. Simply swapping to a good heated battery with low temperature protection and the affordable Victron charger you cited! Thanks much!
Prices for Lifepo4 have come down a lot since your other video. With that in mind, it's now a no-brainer to choose Lifepo4 while it was not a few years ago. But Lifepo4 has one big disadvantage I never thought of and nobody is talking about: most if not all cells are produced at sea level or slightly higher. When you travel in the mountains air pressure will drop and the cells will bulge which can damage the cells. Now for the use in my campervan, I chose to not use a battery with low temperature cut off. I fixed that problem with main switches that allow me to cut off loading, discharging, or both.
I have seen that before as well, but most of these good batteries have fixed that. Although the pressure goes up, they don't bulge when they are packed properly. This is a great point that most people don't think of though. Thank you for contributing to the conversation, which battery did you end up going with?
@@DIYOutdoorLife I went with a Redodo 100ah. Currently, I can get one of those for the price of two lead-acid batteries. The 100ah lasts me a whole weekend with my fridge and my diesel heater running. All the other hardware is from Victron. I don't have DC to AC because, after a few trips, I realized that all I needed the AC for was charging my toothbrush. On longer trips, I usually have an AC connection to recharge the battery anyway.
@@lifepolicynice, I have an Oral-B toothbrush, although it does give you quite a bit of use before it dies, I have a small portable power station that I plug it into. I like roughing it and all, but I gotta have that electric toothbrush.😂
Thanks so much. Im building a batter 12v nominal for my caravan and the whole charging system remais mystery. I was concerned about both alternator and shaw power charging if they would work as a drop in 😮 im planning on adding 400w solar woth mppt charger no issues there. And had been told just to leave the other chargers it would be fine 😢😮 do you have a specific video that details all of this...
I've discussed it several times on the channel, I need to start making some specific videos on the topic so I could reference them. In your situation, I would just disconnect the alternator or add a DCDC. DCDC is really nice, but disconnecting is fast and cheap. Like I said in this video, you can leave the shore power charger, but should supplement with a good standalone charger.
Hi Brian, this is Maria, I’ve listen to your video all the way to the End. 😊 Trying to understand LiFePO4 verses lead acid. This video did help me some but yet some is a bit over my head 😅. But I’m trying. I fried my 1st lead acid battery because of User Error. So I bought an 70 amp AGM battery after hearing some of the info you shared about AGM’s not having to check the water levels which I neglected to do in my 1st battery that got fried. 😂 Now getting my tear drop trailer ready for winter & storing it out doors with a cover on. A friend told me to pull the battery out and store it in the basement! One of the videos I watched said to put a trickle charge on it. So I purchased a NOCO genius 2D battery charger. My question is can this be charged in my basement? With a 12V 2A charger on for trickle charge! Or should it be charged in my garage which stayed just above freezing thru winter? I want to be safe ! Any advice would be appreciated.😊
These are great questions, you’re becoming a pro! With batteries that are lead acid, like AGM, there is an advantage in keeping it above freezing and leaving that trickle charger on it . If you take the battery out, and put it in your garage or basement, any place where the temperature stays warmer than outdoors, and you leave that two amp NOCO on it, your batteries going to last a lot longer. I hope this helps, nice job doing your homework!
I would caution against removing the charging wire from the 7 pin connector. That wire is not always used to just charge the battery. Yes I agree that that was the intention of the original design but travel trailer manufacturers used that wire to power things like the brake away switch ( I know this is wrong and the brake away switch should be wired directly to the battery) but it is also wired to the battery disconnect switch. A better option would be an isolated DC to DC charge controller to protect the alternator.
I'm hoping to get around to showing people how to do this. If they are using that post for the breakaway, there's another lead on a auto reset breaker that will just have the battery/12v wire on it. if that is missing, you can connect the wire from the battery to the breakaway and remove the seven pin inside, it's really easy to do, but you are absolutely correct that it needs to be paid attention to. Like I said in the video, DC DC is always the best option, but I see them on about 10% of the trailers on the road with LFP and that may be generous. Some folks arent interested and isolating them completely is a good option Thank you for contributing to the conversation, great point .
I've seen good results and bad results, personally I'm not thrilled. it gives you the option to skip the Victron, although I think I would still use it if I had one of the auto detect WFCOs
I do not believe it can support a roof rack. I have seen people attach awnings with through bolts into the side though. It's a nice camper, but it's difficult to work on that roof because it's so thin
I have a shutoff switch for the battery on my camper (followed your tutorial). If I switch to LiFePO4, would just shutting off the battery when I'm connected to the tow vehicle solve the possible damage to the alternator issue?
Yes, it does take care of the issue. The reason why you're not supposed to do that is because it stops your battery from activating your auto brake (the breakaway brake) . That brake relies on battery power to work. There's several ways to solve this, you can run a wire from that auto brake up to your battery around your switch . That way the safety brake can work even if your battery is switched off.
Hi we are looking at buying a hiker trailer and we're wondering if you would be interested in doing the electrical system on it. We live in CT, nit sure where you are located. My husband and I enjoy your informative videos and appreciate that you share your knowledge with us. Best regards Brianne
Im in upstate NY, we live close enough to make that happen. Shoot me an email at - diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com Let me know what you're looking to get, when you're going to get it, we can discuss some options, I'll try to help anyway I can ! Thanks 🙏🏻
I have a question since this video addressed the lead acid vs LiFePO4. I Usually keep my popup plugged in while not in use stored in my garage. This seems to work well with the current lead acid by letting the converter trickle charge the battery. I just make sure the water in the battery stays full as it does boil a little off after a couple months. I'm switching to a lithium for all the positives you mentioned so should I leave it plugged in also or let it discharge and use the charger to bring it back full before going camping?
@@DIYOutdoorLifeI did buy a plugin wall charger for the LIFEPO4 but my camper has a WF8725 AD converter so it might actually detect the correct battery type but figure topping it off before leaving would make sure. There's also 2 100w solar panels that I'll switch to LifePO4 when I swap batteries. Thanks for the informative video and reply.
I just bought a small travel trailer with an air conditioner unit that uses AC. Is it reasonable to try to build a boondocking dc+solar system that includes an inverter to run the AC?
I have done it and it is amazing! Whether the price is reasonable, is rather subjective... lol To put it in perspective, my tiny teardrop (bushwhacker) has a 5000 BTU air conditioner. 500.ah lifepo air conditioner between 24 and 30 hours at night. During the day, all bets are off. That can give me three nights of good sleep, it's worth it for me. 400 W of solar can usually extend those numbers, more would be better, but less practical for a tiny trailer
The alternator in my truck is about 22 feet from the 12 V 300 amp lithium ion battery I have in my Lance trailer. Doesn’t that distance eliminate any problems I might have with my trucks alternator burning out?😊
Yes, all of these things can help lessen the impact. Even having a truck instead of a smaller SUV puts you ahead of the game. I still think of it like smoking light cigarettes instead of reds... lol The biggest problem will likely occur when you are traveling slowly, idling, or in stop and go traffic . Your depleted 300 amp lithium is going to want to draw every bit of current it physically can. Your alternator is going to be spinning at a lower revolution and getting much less passive cooling from driving down the road... this is where you're going to see the damage buildup. The longer wire distance also does nothing for the transience issue that can damage diodes and other sensitive opponents. Every time your BMS pauses the charge, your alternators going to hate it. You might be able to get by on a lifetime of doing it just as you are, but with that battery size do you need the extra charge? Could you get by with an extra solar panel? A DCDC is easy and not that expensive anymore. Something to think about, but the sky is not falling here, you might get by just fine . Thank you for watching and asking great questions!
I have a question Brian. Will an oversized inverter ( say 2000 watts hooked up to a 100 Ah AGM battery) damage either the inverter or the battery ? I will have the appropriate protection to not deplete the battery below 50%. I’d like to oversize it now as I plan on expanding my battery capacity down the road. I’m thinking I will disconnect the inverter after I make coffee or run a small heater (500 watts) for 30 minutes in the morning to avoid running down the battery with the inverter on but not under load. Thanks in advance for the advice.
If your wires and fuses are correct, you can do that no problem. An AGM battery output a very high current, it can handle that inverter. The issue, as you know, is that the runtime is limited. You only have about 600 W hours before you're at 50%. Running that heater for 30 minutes might be 300wh after the efficiency losses are calculated in. In short, you can definitely run that inverter, just be careful not to run down your battery too much .
Normally, my eyes glaze over when watching more technical videos, but I watched your explanation with great interest. You're a great teacher! I'm looking forward to your future videos. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for the kind words. I wasn't sure anyone was actually gonna watch this video, but I was hoping some of this information could help people out.
I agree and I subscribed because I was so impressed. This presentation was very refreshing--technical but pragmatic, and just the right balance. Shows intelligence. Thank you.
Amen!
Not exciting videos to watch? Anytime I actually find a video on UA-cam that explains exactly what I am trying to learn without fluff and bias it is an exciting video for me. Thanks for your vids!
I appreciate it, thanks for watching!
This has to be the best explanation about the differences between the two types of batteries. Thank you so much for the rants and explanations that ai can wrap my head around. Bravo!
I really appreciate that you watched the videos and chose to join as a member! It's allowed me to continue making these videos 😃
I love your calm demeanor while explaining things. There are so many channels out there that are just all about the hype and talk super quickly to vomit info out at the viewer. You make sure to take the time to help everyone actually understand the info instead of assuming everyone will just get it on the first pass. Thank you for your content
Thank you so much, I really appreciate you watching the channel. Please make sure to subscribe and share with friends!
I made it all the way through and even went back a couple of times to re-listen. Thanks again for a fantastic video packed with excellent information! I especially love the info about Lithium being lighter, lasting longer, info on the heated batteries - since I am in northern US, and the Victron wall charger info. *Forgot to also thank you for the info about the alternator!! You are the best at explaining things...You have a true gift!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the kind words and knowing that people watch the videos and get something from them. Cheers
Thx Brian! You helped me so much by explaining all this to me with my build and I’m so happy with the results! You have a fantastic ability to explain things in a way that even a knuckle dragger like myself can understand!
Haha.. how's your new system working out? Have you been able to do a shakedown and test it out?
@@DIYOutdoorLife oh ya, it’s working great!
Glad you’re back! Excellent video as usual! Love the way you always cut through the bull and give practical advice!
I appreciate that you watch the channel 👍 👍
Very good video, watched it in its entirety! Thanks! Great info!
Thank you, I appreciate you watching the channel!
Thanks!
Thank you for your generous support of the channel, it really helps me make videos without sponsors!
That was really a great breakdown. It's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful!
I was able to pick up a 140 Ah timeusb lifepo4 a couple of months ago for $220 for my hiker. No problem keeping it topped off with minimal solar. Basically running a 12v fridge, max air fan, and a couple of lights at night.
That's awesome! Hiker does a great job too, because they disconnect the alternator charger for you… That's the right way to do it.
And this video is another reason why I stay subscribed and continue to watch your videos. I am NOT a non believer in lithium, I just haven’t reached lithium level Yet. My $200 AGM investment is on its second season, if I get three years per battery, in a dozen seasons ($800) then my $150 175w solar panel is a good combination for my campground camping. I think I have time to move to lithium. Thanks again Brian.
Thank you, I really appreciate that you watch the videos. You are 100% right, don't let all of these lithium zealots put you down! LoL like I said in the video, if you know how to use it, there's an incredible amount of value in AGM. I would say the next time your batteries go bad, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the new lithium gear, but no need to change while they're working!
Thank you for tuning in!
Watched your video and that was an excellent summary of the technology in a motorhome application.
Thank you so much, I appreciate you watching!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for supporting the channel, I really appreciate it!
This was very informative. Thank you for taking the time to dig deep into Li Fe po4 battery characteristics! Great job!
Thank you, I appreciate you watching the channel!
Great lesson here Brian. I’m waiting any day now for my first LifePo battery, but was a bit nervous if I had to invest in a DC to DC charge controller as well. Now I’ll opt for your tips on bypassing the 7-pin and charging the battery with the on board converter. Thanks again.
Great to hear, thank you for watching!
This was very good information, I learned a lot. Thank you!
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
Another great video, watched it to the end lol!! You have a great way to explain technical topics in an easy to understand manner. Can’t wait for the video of your 7 pin hack!! Just changed to lithium and trying to get things setup properly with battery monitoring etc. thanks again!!!
I will try to get to that as soon as I can, I have a bunch of videos out ahead of it, but I think it's an important topic.
Thank you for watching the channel!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you so much for your informational videos! I have learned so much! Looking forward to the 7 pin hack also
Made it till the end, your videos have improved my understanding of solar and batteries thank you so much hope your day is full of joy!
Thanks, you too! Glad to hear theyre helpful!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your generous contribution to the channel, it helps keep the lights on!
Good video Brian. Love the way you make it easier to understand. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, we're going to get to hang in a month right? Are you in for NC?
Great video Brian. Very informative! Thanks for making it easy to understand.
Thanks Tom, appreciate you watching!
Thanks for a great video with lots of info about the LiPo batteries, this answers a lot of my questions.
That's great to hear, I wasn't sure anyone was actually going to watch it... lol
Great video and changed my views on LIPO. Thanks
I appreciate you watching 👍
Oh gosh, I’m glad to run across this. Waiting for solar system components based around Lifepo battery….and happened to run across you video advocating lead acid from three years ago.
It’s a no-brainer now, with the lower prices and better charging gear! I’m glad you got to see both sides of the argument.
I watched the video you referenced and that was not my take-away at all. I've watched that video several times. I am now ready to upgrade the converter and battery and I set out to read up on this project and you happened to pop up again with new info. Thank You! If you set out to actually do a full conversion to Lith THE RIGHT WAY, I would be very interested in hearing your take on it all. I know it would be a bit expensive but I love my Geo Pro and as a hobby would love to pimp it out.
I really appreciate hearing that. I found that most people got exactly what I was trying to say, but there's always that lingering group of people that tend to be noisy.... lol I literally got hate mail over that video, pretty comical.
Thank you for tuning in, lots of new content coming on batteries and charging , stay tuned!
My only regret about getting into lithium iron phosphate over three years ago was the high cost of entry. I cry a little every time I learn what the cost of yet another good quality LiFePO4 is. I guess that's why they call it the "bleeding edge." The Renogy 200Ah Smart Pro you have listed is only $50 more than my original Battleborn.
I know, with 200ah, built-in Bluetooth shunt, self heating, And a grenade proof BMS .... review coming for sure!
Very good and informative video, had to listen to the end. So glad you addressed the car alternator charging issues with the lithium batteries.
You just described how we setup campers for owners when they want to step up to lithium power. Keep it as simple as possible and it will serve you well for a long time.
We should team up for the how to remove the alternator connection video. We'll let Lucía and Cindy film while we bang our heads on the frame showing color blind folks had to find it with a multimeter!
@@DIYOutdoorLife sounds fun!
Very easy listen...valuable information that's easy to digest! Thanks!
Thank you, I really appreciate you watching the video!
Great info and the tip with the victron charger at the end answers a question I had before upgrading from sla to liFePO4 batteries for my camper.
That's great to hear, I'm glad that was helpful. It saves a bunch of money and works great.
GREAT video Brian!!! Love this type of content from you. I’m a bit of a nerd about this stuff so maybe it’s not for everyone, but is nerds love it!
So glad you’re in a new camper and “building it out” with your mods and upgrades. Gives you a chance to go through the basics again and reevaluate how the new technologies may have changed things from your older vids.
I’m SUPER curious about that goal zero Yeti you have installed plays into your battery / power system. Hopefully we’ll see something on that soon??
Congrats on the new tiny camper BTW… She’s a beauty!
I can't wait to discuss that, it's next level! Essentially, I have a switch that can divert the solar from my battery to the Goal zero, depending what I want to charge.
I have a switch that will power the camper DC off of the front battery or the high output of the GZ .
I have an auto transfer switch that automatically runs the outlets in the camper off of the Goal zero when disconnected from shore power, and I use the app to turn the inverter on and off .
It's set up to charge and use in countless ways, do things automatically, add to the battery capacity, and take the place of an inverter ... love it!
Enjoyed the video, thank you.
My two 6 volts I bought in 2018 are still in good shape and I live in Albeta and we camp in the cold too. A battery tender goes a long way and I bring them inside in the extreme cold in winter.
Nothing wrong with that! I still love a good 6v series set up myself.
You remind me of Michael Chiklis from "The Commish". Your channel is the best and I really appreciate your common sense, smooth delivery of information and usable knowledge. Also I am going to accept your challenge to go camping 15,000 times.
Thank you for watching, I really hope you succeed!!
Great video and content, thanks for sharing Brian! Cheers
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
I watched till the end and learned a lot. Thank you so much.
That's great to hear, I appreciate it!
Great explanations as usual, Brian.
I hope you’re doing well!
Thank you, it's been very exciting to spend so much time in the new camper! We did just spend two nights in the Bushwhacker as well… Just so it didn't get jealous
Keeping the Bushwhacker from getting jealous gives a whole new meaning to the phrase “a happy camper”…
We recently returned from another >4,200-mile motorhome trip, so it’s time to put the ol’ BW to some more use again.
Congratulations on your new Hiker! That’s a nice rig, and should be fun to outfit to your preferences.
Made it to the end....Well done!
Thank you for watching!
Great stuff. Yeah.. I already installed a battery disconnect switch on my connection to my lead acid battery, so I can just turn that off when towing, but there is a seperate line that goes to the brakes so I should be good there. Thanks so much.
Nice, I appreciate you swinging by and watching the video!
Excellent vid as always!! I'm still using my 2 vmax 225ah batteries in series with the victron shunt. Absolutely love the set up. Plenty of pwr with the solar. My new rig has a lithium controller. Only thing is the weight for me. Especially with a recent rotator cuff surgery. I think this fall I'm gonna save for the lithium. I can use the same shunt just need a charger. Love to talk sometime about it. Keep them coming brother!!
That's a great battery set up, I've installed that dozens of times, never a complaint! Reach out anytime you want, happy to help if I can.
Can definitely tell you put the extra effort in on this vid!
Definitely a more involved video for us, I hope I can help some people out
I agree, this stuff is exciting as all get out, great info
Thank you, it’s great to know that there’s fellow battery nerds out there!
Thank you, I’m in the learning phase of solar and batteries. Started with a small Bluetti unit and 100 watt brief case panel.
Thats a great unit to start on. You can definitely learn a lot by starting on portable power stations,the com screen tells you a lot of useful things.
Super helpful. Thanks so much. And I did make it to the end!!
I'm really glad it was helpful, thank you for watching the channel!
You are an excellent teacher! Thank you!!
Thank you, I really appreciate you watching and commenting
I switched from AGM battery to a 100ah LiFePO4 in our trailer once the price came down to about $300. I chose one with bluetooth, self heating, high and low temperature protection. Having an app to keep tabs on my charge rate means a simplified and less expensive installation since it eliminates the need for extra wires, fuses and a monitoring gauge. Gathering ACCURATE information was the most challenging aspect of the upgrade. The higher 14.4 voltage when charging a lithium battery can damage older Maxxfans so I installed a voltage DC to DC stabilizer. My vehicle cuts off the 12 volt power supply when the ignition is off, so backfeeding from the lithium to tow vehicle isn’t an issue while parked. I replaced my converter to a Victron charger set at 15 amps. From what I understand, my 130 amp alternator isn’t at risk because I only have a single 100ah being fed with a 10 gauge wire so the draw is minimal (I also have 160 watts of solar on my trailer roof) . One of the most satisfying benefits of the upgrade is running my 3 way fridge off of 12 volts while driving, and even though it uses 15 amps, I can drive many hours before worrying about a low battery. Anyway, it was a bit of a frustrating experience upgrading to LiFeP04, but I’m sure enjoying the benefits.
Like you said, it can be a frustrating switch, but it's worth it in the end!
Do a little bit more digging on that alternator charging, you will find that you do want a DC to DC or eliminate it all together. Even if you have some headroom for the charge, it's not very good for it due to the transient issue we were talking about in this video.
Ok, so you convinced me now to switch to LIFePO! You explain things so clearly. Great job again! But to be clear on something, the WFCO 8735P will not damage the LiFePO? Its will only bring the charge up to 80% and then the Victron will carry it up to 100% and balance the cells? Is buying the WFCO 8735AD a waste money with its Auto detect feature? Thanks again.
I honestly think it is a waste of money. Just use the Victron at home. It will 100% not damage anything, it just won't top off the charge. When youhave shore, you usually don't need a full charge anyway.
Let me know how you make out, I think you're gonna be thrilled
@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks for the quick reply. I’ll let you know for sure. 👍🏼
Yes, I made it through the whole video. Great perspective! I'm learning through videos like yours! You do a great job explaining WHAT we need to know about Lithium batteries. I have a2024 Rockwood 2516s with 400w of GoPower solar and (2) deep cycle lead acid flooded batteries. I am definitely upgrading my batteries to lithium as we want to do more boon docking and the flooded cells are not a good insurance policy. We have hauled our 2020 Lance 1985 and this 2516 for over 33,000 miles combined but with the 2516 and a 12V fridge we are much more limited going off grid. The Lance had a propane fridge and we could easily go dry camping for 3-4 days. I want to go with your recommendation of a single, heated 200+Ah battery w/BMS as we like to cold camp (Lance was a 4 season). What would be your battery recommendation that will fit in my 21 3/8" long Camco battery box? Thanks for all your expertise!
Thank you for watching. I will link a video that I did on the battery that I recommend, in that video description there are links with promo codes to save money.
ua-cam.com/video/yWnqnuusz2g/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
8% OFF - DOLPRO
✅ Renogy Website (by region):
✅ US - renogy.sjv.io/r...
As always great information. Thanks.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Great video and information! My solar controller will charge both lead acid or lipo4 batteries and I'm tempted to buy a 30 lb 100 ah battery to replace the 2 interstate deep cycle batteries that weigh a lot more. My question is - why not kill the DC power to the camper battery charger and just plug in the Victron charger full time? The fuse panel and breaker part of the converter will still function with out DC power. Then disconnect the power coming from the truck, my 300 watt solar will keep the camper charged.
That's a perfectly fine way to do it, I've done that many times.
Since the converter/charger in your camper doesn't hurt anything, it's also fine to leave it connected like I did in this video. It might be 30 A, then can charge 80% of your battery pretty fast. You can save money by getting a smaller Victron to top it off in that case.
On my personal set up, I just bought a 30a Victron and disconnected like you're saying.
Truth be told, my solar keeps me topped off 99% of the time, shore power is very rarely used.
I must be a boring person, because I made it to the end. Fascinating. I am super close to pulling the trigger.
We're in good company! Thank you for taking the time to watch.
I made the switch when prices were nearly double what that are now. I would do it at even double the price! No regrets for me.
Great video, very informative
Thank you, I really appreciate you watching the video!
Made it to the end😂😂 thanks man, great info!
I appreciate you tuning in, especially to the end 😂
Very interesting . Thanks
Thank you, I really appreciate you watching!
Couple questions. Can you expect the same kind of longevity from a power station (goal zero)? Do those power stations have the same cold charging issues?
The brand new goal zeros use LifePO4, same chemistry that we're talking about in this video.
The majority of their models use a different lithium- ion sub chemistry, LI-nmc. I did a lot of reviews on Goal zero power stations where I discussed this in depth, it might be worth taking a peek at one of those videos. Li-nmc does not have the same endurance as lifepo, but I think it pairs very well with those power stations and wouldn't worry about it at all. Although a lifepo4 cell can last almost 10 times as long as NMC, There is no reason why you won't get 10 years plus out of a goal zero yeti X. Chances are you don't completely drain it every single day, they are a great well built power station.
As for the other question, Goal Zero has the best temperature protection that I've seen in any power station. If it gets down too cold, you'll see thermostat on the screen and it will not allow you to charge.
Thanks Brian for explaining this, made it to the end 😅
That's great to hear, there must be other battery nerds out there in this world! LoL
great video for my novice battery knowledge. Looking forward to your upgrading your Hiker battery system and more insight to it. why you are doing what your doing and suggestions would be awesome as I am a AGM Hiker owner currently and might upgrade after your videos.
AGM is great, people give it a bad rap, but it does the job. When that AGM gets tired, you'll be thrilled with the upgrade to lithium.
Definitely some somehow to videos coming on the Hiker !
Your excellent. Im learning but your teaching a little faster than im learning.....lol. i will keep going and by the time I have my 320 boondock purchase I will know whats going on......thanks your a big help.
Anytime, we're all in this together! If you ever have a question, don't be afraid to ask.
Just found your channel, and subscribed. I love the way you simplify and explain the things above my head, and talk in a budget-oriented manner to a cheapskate like me. We have a 13 foot Scamp and camp in National Parks and National forests with no hookups. The trailer has six led lights and a Max Fan, and we run the 3-way refrigerator on propane. We have a 100 watt solar panel to recharge while camping, and usually camp for seven days or less. We've been quite happy with what we have, except I need to replace the 100 amp AGM house battery for the third time in six years. based on this video, I'm looking at the 12 volt 100Ah Self Heating LiFePO4 battery from the Temgot Sore on Amazon, and the 5 amp Energy Blue Charger. As a side note, when not camping I have always left the Camper plugged into shore power to keep the battery charged. Could I do that with the Energy Blue charger? Thanks for all you do!
Thank you so much for watching. Yes, it’s fine to leave that charger on. When the batteries completely charged, it’ll turn the charger off.
@@DIYOutdoorLife, I just sent you a super thanks because you helped so much, but I have one more question. I disconnected and removed my old converter/charger and installed a new LifePO battery. I did nothing else. I have 12 volts to my interior trailer lights and refrigerator from my house battery. I can disconnect my house battery and use my 7-pin plug from my car with the same results. I can disconnect my 7-pin plug from the car, disconnect my house battery, plug into 120, and have power to my refrigerator and outlets. My solar panel tops off my battery and balances the individual cells. I want to be sure that nothing I've done will cause damage to my car's alternator or my new LIfePO battery. I want power through my 7-pin plug for my trailer brakes. I realize I still need a charger when my house battery's charge is lower than my solar panel will handle, but I haven't decided if I want a new converter charger or an Energy Blue charger. Am I still on the right track? Thanks again.
@@joerussell5241 That all sounds good. One thing to take a look at- your emergency break away brake Will likely require power from your battery. In the event that your trailer decouples from your tow vehicle, it’s the campers battery the powers that brake.
When you disconnect your battery while towing, there’s a potential hazard there . Companies like Hiker trailer, provide a small battery underneath the camper that picks up this load, that’s very nice. With other set ups, you might want to run a small wire from that break away pin to your battery. That way you can disconnect the battery, run on the seven pin, and still have power to that in the event of an emergency.
Hope this makes sense, let me know if you have any questions
Amazing video. Subscribed!!!
Thank you for subscribing, appreciate it!
Very informative, thank you!
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
Great video. Please show us how to disable the car charging cable. I don't need it and am just heading out for a long trip in 1 to 2 months.
Thanks and show us your new trailer.
I definitely have to make that video, I hope I can get to it sometime soon.
If you wanna try it yourself, it really couldn't be easier . Look up the diagram for your trailer side 7 pin, it will show you which wire is the 12 VDC +. It will also explain what all the other wires are.
Follow that wire from the plug back to your trailer, and it's going to go to a small plastic box with a screwed on lid. Just remove that one wire, put everything back where it was, put a little tape around it the exposed end of the wire you removed and you're done.
Hope to be able to make that video, but I know we're a little backed up on the channel right now so I don't know when it'll be.
Thank you!
Made it to the end of the video.
Though your videos aren’t the shortest I’ve watched, they are so super informative and I’ve learned so much watching them. My whole solar set up is so simple to use and set up and I learned how to do it from your videos. I do have a question though. Watching the video I think I may switch to the LiFePO4, disconnect the charging line from my vehicle alternator, and purchase one of the battery maintainers that plugs into the wall with the alligator clips or the rings. The question I have is, will my Renogy 100W solar suitcase charge the battery to 100%, and do all of the balancing and maintaining needed while out boondocking?
Thanks in advance for the assist!
Thank you, really glad you tune into the channel.
Although the Renogy suitcase kit is handy, it does use a pretty low end PWM charge controller. it has a lithium setting, which can get you up to a higher state of charge than others, but in my experience, it does not run through the absorption phase in the same way as a real lifepo charger, balancing the cells.
If you get the clamp on Victron wall charger, you should be golden, you'll be able to get a full charge and balance at home. The solar will probably get you close to topped of when boondocking. if you want to upgrade your solar down the road, get a solid MPPT.
Thanks again!
Thank you again for continuing to educate me, and the super fast response. I think I now have a path forward for a possible future battery upgrade.
any time, keep me in the loop
This video ever made thank you
I meant to say best video you’ve ever made keep up the good work
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Brian this was an awesome video. I would love to pick your Brain sometime.
Thanks for tuning in. You can reach out anytime.
The thing that has really changed in the LFP versus Lead acid conversation is that you can get a decent 100amp hour LFP for $200 (including low-temp protection). That makes it a really attractive choice. Back when they were a grand not so much. It's not exactly drop-in, but it's not too challenging. I would recommend always changing the converter with lithium, it is not that expensive (if you DIY), and the original is usually crap anyway.
We'll see how things go, it's been an exciting change in pricing and quality. I still haven't found a good $200 LFP, despite the push from some larger content, creators slinging them. What's your favorite discount battery?
Great video, even great info in the rants, 😂
Thank you, I try to keep the rants to a minimum... lol
I made it to end . Your thoughts on the advanced AGM batteries that have the TPPL which stands for thin plate pure lead and can cycle down lower . That’s what I have in the Hiker . Running lights, fan and fridge it can go three days before it hits the 12V mark and I feel the need to charge it. It can safely be charged through the 7 pin as long as voltages stay below 15V , no DC to DC needed . The only bad thing about a battery of this type is it’s weight , it’s about 80-85 lbs . A simple suitcase style solar (220 W) can top it off when staying out longer . I don’t know why I’m not sold on Lithium maybe it’s because I’m older and I’ve always worked with flooded and AGM batteries.
I am with you, it seems like we think of this the same way. I have used AGM for years, including the modern ones with deeper discharge capability. They are excellent, no DCDC needed, cheaper... but we're still not going to get the other benefits until we go lithium.
The battery you have is great, don't change it until you need to . But when you see what you get for the size and weight, you'll become a believer.
Thank you so much for watching the video to the end !
Do you have the propex heater on your hiker? If so, can you do a video on it. I would like to see a video on it. Thank you.
I have a lot of experience with the propex but I went with the truma. I’ve been very happy with the decision, but I don’t think I could’ve gone wrong either way, both great tiny camper furnaces!
Very informative, thank you for doing this video
Thank you for watching, I appreciate it!
Great presentation!!!
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
What are your thoughts on dual 6 volt systems
Theyre great. If you can fit it the size and weight, they perform very well. If they go bad, switching to lifepo will be worthwhile.
Thank you for this video! 2 Questions....1.) Would you LEAVE the Victron charger on their 24/7 when the batteries are not in use? 2.) Will solar with a Victron solar controller ever be able to charge the LIFEPO batteries all the way up to 100%? (I don't have a camper/converter, etc. etc. Think more tent camping.)
Finally to leave that charger plugged in 24/7.
If you are getting good sun, that Victron MPPT will charge 100% and balance a lithium battery.
Thanks for the video. Just got back from our second trip in our new Hiker. 3.5 days camping. I parked in the shade and tried to survive off my 1000x Goalzero. I had to hook up the car and play cat and mouse with the fridge (C44). I finally lost power at 4 am on the day we were going to leave. I had been looking at portable solar, but didn't pull the trigger on a purchase. My Hiker has a kill switch that you can also flip over to where I have cables that can be put on a battery. Since my Goalzero was put in lengthwise I Cant fit a battery down there. I had the shelf raised and I'm not sure if I can fit one on the shelf and if it fits, I'll have to add a 1 X 2 board for weight load. I'm trying to figure out which brand of battery, how to charge it, how to store it and what gizmos I need to charge it with solar panels or just use it up, bring it home and then try and charge it. Worried about bricking the battery. I just cant throw down $900 for battleborne. I did buy their stock, if it goes up enough and I wait the 6 months for capital gains, maybe.
Do you have the 1000 X or the 1000 core?
My recommendation would be to get yourself a good chunk of solar . Between 200 and 400 W portable. One ideal situation might be two of the 220 W units that I just reviewed. You could either string them in series or connect them in parallel for 440w.
If you set up that amount of solar at camp, it would likely keep that yeti charged up the whole time . It would run down a little bit at night and charge right back up in the morning. 90% of the time it'll probably be charged up before lunchtime, but the extra headroom will get you through shady campsites, and rainy days.
My suspicion is that if you did that, you wouldn't even have to worry about the battery . No moving anything or changing the wiring or getting a charger. It would probably cost less as well.
Keep me in the loop, I'm happy to help if I can .
ok I watched this video again and here is my takeaway if I want to upgrade my Lead battery to Lithium:
1)disconnect alternator charger pin (dedicated video coming soon)
2)Buy and install heated lithium battery
2)don't mind the RV battery charger because it doesn't hurt the battery and will get it up to 80%
3)connect the RV to shore power at home like normal
4)before a trip, use the vitron charger to bump the battery up to 100%
5)install solar so that batteries are kept charged while traveling even without the alternator charging pin
Is that it? almost as easy as plug and play!
One last thing...my truck is a 2024 Hybrid Tundra that doesn't have an alternator does the alternator charging tip still applies?
You got it. You should be up and running in no time. Your tundra does have an alternator, it’s actually much larger for charging the hybrid battery reserve, I would still disconnect the charging wire if it were mine.
@@DIYOutdoorLife cool! subscribed and waiting for the video telling me how to locate the pin! One last thing, will my RV onboard battery monitor not work? I guess the new battery will have Bluetooth and can be monitored that way.
unfortunately, the onboard battery monitor will not work. It was designed to measure the voltage of a lead acid battery between 10.5 and 12.8. With the higher voltage of the lithium battery, it will indicate that the battery is full, even when there’s 25% left.
Great vid Brian.
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
I think you’re absolutely brilliant when it comes to electronics, I am so lost with solar with generators with batteries I’m literally going out of my mind with it, I wish you were here in California I would hire you to set up my little teardrop trailer it would be awesome, I’m just trying to figure out what darn generator to get just to run my AC unit (The AC is for my dog on hot days after a long hike) in my Bushwacker HD 10, mechanically I’ve got it all modified lift kit big tires off-road hitch I have braced the frame Etc. etc. but when it comes to this electronic stuff it’s an unconsolidated nightmare for me, I did purchase a generator brand new over $1000 it was called a Generac & the day I went to use it, it was defective, I ended up getting my money back and trying to figure out what the heck to purchase, Here in California you can’t get many generators so I have to go to Nevada and buy one unless I go to a place like Harbor freight and I’m looking for light weight to reduce tongue weight etc. I wish I had your knowledge sorry for this long ongoing message but I do think you’re absolutely brilliant and now seeing that you’ve purchased a new trailer I’m probably gonna end up getting something like yours!!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words, we're all in this together! I still struggle with a lot of the mechanical and metal work, I was just trying to weld yesterday and it looks like a child did it. we all have things to share to help each other out, if we meet up on the road I'm sure we could both upgrade each other's campers.
California is tough when it comes to generators. I do really like the predator from Harbor freight, for that price point, it's very difficult to beat. If you can get something in the 1400 to 2000 W range, it should be able to charge your camper and run the air conditioner. They make both sizes, both will work fine. The 2000 will give you a little bit more headroom and be less problematic, but you can get the 1400 to work flawlessly. if running the 1400, make sure you're not running anything else when you turn your air conditioner on, sometimes it's helpful to start with the fan and switch to low cool after one minute. This helps that 1400 not overload. The 2000 won't have this problem and will run a little bit longer on a tank.
Happy to help anyway I can, feel free to reach out anytime .
Lol, I immediately thought of that video from 3 years ago when I saw this video title. I don't remember it being worthy of being branded, "anti-Lithium" at all. I remember it being a friendly reminder that new technologies come with new things to keep in mind.
I knew I liked you! ... lol thanks for watching
Brian, love your channel! You've helped me understand a lot about battery power even though I've been RVing for about 15 years. I do have one question...I have a 2017 T@B with a non lithium recognizing WFCO charge converter. I also have 300w of solar with an MPPT charge controller hooked directly to the battery. If I understand you correctly I can use the WFCO when I have shore power and it will charge to around 80%. If I also use the solar package it can charge the rest of the way and do all the balancing stuff the WFCO doesn't? Then if I disconnect the charge wire on the 7 pin I've got a reliable lifepo4 system without changing the WFCO converter/charger?
That is absolutely correct! Although the solar can be more temperamental than getting the Victron wall charger, it accomplishes the job if you have a good one. Make sure to use the best lithium setting on your MPPT, sometimes it requires custom settings, dialed in exactly to your battery specs.
Happy camping!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Brian, thanks! I'll get a wall charger to use also and use your link.
@@larryglass4541 thank you, keep me in the loop with how you make out!
I need to upgrade my battery system
We all do, lol, it's never enough!
Excellent info! Thx.
Thank you, I appreciate you watching the channel!
Hi - I have a camper (Winnebago Micro Minnie) whose supposedly "Lithium ready" with one of those WFCO Auto Detect converter charger. I have a Victron solar controller. I have a portable solar panel with its own solar controller so i can use the "Solar on the side" connector on my trailer. I now have invested in a 150Ah LiFePO4 battery that will allow me to boondock for multiple rainy days given my electrical consumption is around 40 Ah a day in warm weather (60Ah in the shoulder seasons, when I have to turn the heat on). My fridge is absorption, so very little demand on that side. Entirely tracking with the logic you've demonstrated in your video.
You got me real worried with the 7 pin. I didn't do anything there and you've now proven to me that I need to. Is it as easy as finding which fuse on my F-150 controls the 7-pin 12V charging and disconnect it? Or should I do what you did and find ways to cut the charging wire on the pig tail of the trailer. That'd be a good video to have.
As usual, thanks so much for your videos. You have a very special communication talent, very special, and we're all benefiting for it.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. Although I have been able to find schematics where you can pull a fuse, it's very simple to just remove the wire at the junction box on the trailer. You will be able to find the 12 V supply wire, and remove that in a couple of minutes.
If I can get some time, I will make a video showing . Thanks again!
So, I have been doing what you suggested for a while. I bring my lithium battery in and charge it on the charger that is intended for it before each trip. I simply turn off the kill switch on the battery while I am towing the camper so that it is not charging from the alternator. The potential problem is the Dometic fridge, because it is not running either if I turn off the battery. I have been putting cooler shock packs in the fridge on my way to camp, but that isn't going to work on longer trips. I think I must add solar to keep the fridge running. The problem I have is that I really have no room on my roof for solar. I would have to put a flexible panel on the curved front of my camper, but I wonder if it would really get enough sun at that angle.
I think in your case, just pulling that wire that connects your tow vehicle will be fast and simple. I hope you'll be able to put out a video that demonstrates this.
This allows you to keep the battery on, running your fridge, and disconnect the tow vehicle.
What kind of camper do you have?
Where is your refrigerator located?
Maybe we can try to figure out some creative solutions that are easy
@@DIYOutdoorLife I have a Intech Flyer Pursue. The fridge is in a pullout in the front of the camper.
@@DIYOutdoorLife If the fridges handles didn't have to be removed to make it fit in its spot in the pullout, I would probably just move it to the back of the car and plug it in there. As it is, it isn't so easy to move, especially when you are a fun-sized person.
@@cherylbarrett3443 it should be very easy to disconnect that wire on ur camper, that would allow you to keep the battery on while you're driving and not have to worry about the hassle
Hey Brian, took your advice and bought the budget low temp battery, but it doesn't charge at all on my older WFCO 8735 converter. I can charge it manually with the charger I purchased from them however. I"m probably going to return it. Are there others you would recommend that would charge to around 80% with my older converter. Luv your videos. Have a good one.
Which battery did you get? My advice was to get a good lifepo4... lol
Your 8735 will charge that battery . Often times, the battery has to be drawn down before the charger will turn on. Try using the battery until you get down near 13 V and the charger turns on. In this video, I discussed the need to have the lithium battery charger to take it all the way to the top. If you want to charge the battery, and it's up over 50% state of charge, you'll want to use the lifepo charger. If you draw the battery down around 13 V, the wfco will charge it all the way up to about 80%.
Hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if this doesn't help.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Yeah.. so it looks like I blew a fuse at the battery. Testing again, but looks like it's charging. Thanks so much.
@@GoldenK9Campersgreat news!
Just finished watching your video, great information. I do have a question about trailer converters, I have lifepo batteries and want to change the converter to a wfco-ad converter, just wondering your thoughts on this. Thanks
If you can do it yourself, you can get it done on a budget and it's great. to be honest, I think I get better results just using the Victron add-on charger when needed. I let the stock wfco do most of the work, before a Boondocking trip, I put the Victron on for a few hours before I leave. I have an auto detect, new in the box, and I did not even put it in my older trailer... I just use the Victron when I need it.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks for the info, love your channel.
Do you disconnect the batteries from the trailer charger when you use the victron battery charger?
@@kevinturley6673 nope, it's a smart device. You don't have to disconnect the battery, you can use it and charge at the same time, you can even charge it at the same time as the other WFCO is charging... couldn't be any easier!
@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks for the info, made the decision pretty easy
Made it to the end. So are you saying I can keep my existing DCDC and just use that small Victron you cited? What about when on A/C charging it in the camper?
Yes, you can even run them at the same time. You can run and charge from your normal AC power, it won’t hurt anything, it just doesn’t top it off. The separate charger allows you to top it off, when needed, and also balances out the battery cells.
@
@ thank you! This is wonderful to hear! That saves me a ton of money, not changing all of the internal devices. Simply swapping to a good heated battery with low temperature protection and the affordable Victron charger you cited! Thanks much!
Prices for Lifepo4 have come down a lot since your other video. With that in mind, it's now a no-brainer to choose Lifepo4 while it was not a few years ago. But Lifepo4 has one big disadvantage I never thought of and nobody is talking about: most if not all cells are produced at sea level or slightly higher. When you travel in the mountains air pressure will drop and the cells will bulge which can damage the cells.
Now for the use in my campervan, I chose to not use a battery with low temperature cut off. I fixed that problem with main switches that allow me to cut off loading, discharging, or both.
I have seen that before as well, but most of these good batteries have fixed that. Although the pressure goes up, they don't bulge when they are packed properly. This is a great point that most people don't think of though.
Thank you for contributing to the conversation, which battery did you end up going with?
@@DIYOutdoorLife I went with a Redodo 100ah. Currently, I can get one of those for the price of two lead-acid batteries. The 100ah lasts me a whole weekend with my fridge and my diesel heater running. All the other hardware is from Victron. I don't have DC to AC because, after a few trips, I realized that all I needed the AC for was charging my toothbrush. On longer trips, I usually have an AC connection to recharge the battery anyway.
@@lifepolicynice, I have an Oral-B toothbrush, although it does give you quite a bit of use before it dies, I have a small portable power station that I plug it into. I like roughing it and all, but I gotta have that electric toothbrush.😂
nice explanation. thanks
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Thanks so much. Im building a batter 12v nominal for my caravan and the whole charging system remais mystery. I was concerned about both alternator and shaw power charging if they would work as a drop in 😮 im planning on adding 400w solar woth mppt charger no issues there. And had been told just to leave the other chargers it would be fine 😢😮 do you have a specific video that details all of this...
I've discussed it several times on the channel, I need to start making some specific videos on the topic so I could reference them.
In your situation, I would just disconnect the alternator or add a DCDC. DCDC is really nice, but disconnecting is fast and cheap. Like I said in this video, you can leave the shore power charger, but should supplement with a good standalone charger.
@DIYOutdoorLife that's great I've subscribed now so hope I'll not miss it
Hi Brian, this is Maria, I’ve listen to your video all the way to the End. 😊 Trying to understand LiFePO4 verses lead acid. This video did help me some but yet some is a bit over my head 😅. But I’m trying. I fried my 1st lead acid battery because of User Error. So I bought an 70 amp AGM battery after hearing some of the info you shared about AGM’s not having to check the water levels which I neglected to do in my 1st battery that got fried. 😂 Now getting my tear drop trailer ready for winter & storing it out doors with a cover on. A friend told me to pull the battery out and store it in the basement! One of the videos I watched said to put a trickle charge on it. So I purchased a NOCO genius 2D battery charger. My question is can this be charged in my basement? With a 12V 2A charger on for trickle charge! Or should it be charged in my garage which stayed just above freezing thru winter? I want to be safe ! Any advice would be appreciated.😊
These are great questions, you’re becoming a pro!
With batteries that are lead acid, like AGM, there is an advantage in keeping it above freezing and leaving that trickle charger on it .
If you take the battery out, and put it in your garage or basement, any place where the temperature stays warmer than outdoors, and you leave that two amp NOCO on it, your batteries going to last a lot longer.
I hope this helps, nice job doing your homework!
great content, thank you!
Appreciate it 👍
Food for the I can do that guy. Thanks
👍
I would caution against removing the charging wire from the 7 pin connector. That wire is not always used to just charge the battery. Yes I agree that that was the intention of the original design but travel trailer manufacturers used that wire to power things like the brake away switch ( I know this is wrong and the brake away switch should be wired directly to the battery) but it is also wired to the battery disconnect switch. A better option would be an isolated DC to DC charge controller to protect the alternator.
I'm hoping to get around to showing people how to do this. If they are using that post for the breakaway, there's another lead on a auto reset breaker that will just have the battery/12v wire on it. if that is missing, you can connect the wire from the battery to the breakaway and remove the seven pin inside, it's really easy to do, but you are absolutely correct that it needs to be paid attention to. Like I said in the video, DC
DC is always the best option, but I see them on about 10% of the trailers on the road with LFP and that may be generous. Some folks arent interested and isolating them completely is a good option
Thank you for contributing to the conversation, great point .
Made it to end, supposedly my converter/change is made for lipo
I've seen good results and bad results, personally I'm not thrilled. it gives you the option to skip the Victron, although I think I would still use it if I had one of the auto detect WFCOs
I just got a 2021 Bushwhacker Plus Fd. Can you add roof rails to this model to eventually add an awning?
I do not believe it can support a roof rack. I have seen people attach awnings with through bolts into the side though. It's a nice camper, but it's difficult to work on that roof because it's so thin
I have a shutoff switch for the battery on my camper (followed your tutorial). If I switch to LiFePO4, would just shutting off the battery when I'm connected to the tow vehicle solve the possible damage to the alternator issue?
Yes, it does take care of the issue. The reason why you're not supposed to do that is because it stops your battery from activating your auto brake (the breakaway brake) . That brake relies on battery power to work.
There's several ways to solve this, you can run a wire from that auto brake up to your battery around your switch . That way the safety brake can work even if your battery is switched off.
Hi we are looking at buying a hiker trailer and we're wondering if you would be interested in doing the electrical system on it. We live in CT, nit sure where you are located. My husband and I enjoy your informative videos and appreciate that you share your knowledge with us. Best regards Brianne
Im in upstate NY, we live close enough to make that happen.
Shoot me an email at - diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Let me know what you're looking to get, when you're going to get it, we can discuss some options, I'll try to help anyway I can ! Thanks 🙏🏻
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you for responding to my message. I just sent you an email. Many blessings, Brianne
I have a question since this video addressed the lead acid vs LiFePO4. I Usually keep my popup plugged in while not in use stored in my garage. This seems to work well with the current lead acid by letting the converter trickle charge the battery. I just make sure the water in the battery stays full as it does boil a little off after a couple months. I'm switching to a lithium for all the positives you mentioned so should I leave it plugged in also or let it discharge and use the charger to bring it back full before going camping?
Fine to leave it plugged in all the time. They will protect themselves and its fine to keep it connected.
@@DIYOutdoorLifeI did buy a plugin wall charger for the LIFEPO4 but my camper has a WF8725 AD converter so it might actually detect the correct battery type but figure topping it off before leaving would make sure. There's also 2 100w solar panels that I'll switch to LifePO4 when I swap batteries. Thanks for the informative video and reply.
I just bought a small travel trailer with an air conditioner unit that uses AC. Is it reasonable to try to build a boondocking dc+solar system that includes an inverter to run the AC?
I have done it and it is amazing! Whether the price is reasonable, is rather subjective... lol
To put it in perspective, my tiny teardrop (bushwhacker) has a 5000 BTU air conditioner. 500.ah lifepo air conditioner between 24 and 30 hours at night. During the day, all bets are off. That can give me three nights of good sleep, it's worth it for me. 400 W of solar can usually extend those numbers, more would be better, but less practical for a tiny trailer
The alternator in my truck is about 22 feet from the 12 V 300 amp lithium ion battery I have in my Lance trailer. Doesn’t that distance eliminate any problems I might have with my trucks alternator burning out?😊
Yes, all of these things can help lessen the impact. Even having a truck instead of a smaller SUV puts you ahead of the game. I still think of it like smoking light cigarettes instead of reds... lol
The biggest problem will likely occur when you are traveling slowly, idling, or in stop and go traffic . Your depleted 300 amp lithium is going to want to draw every bit of current it physically can. Your alternator is going to be spinning at a lower revolution and getting much less passive cooling from driving down the road... this is where you're going to see the damage buildup. The longer wire distance also does nothing for the transience issue that can damage diodes and other sensitive opponents. Every time your BMS pauses the charge, your alternators going to hate it.
You might be able to get by on a lifetime of doing it just as you are, but with that battery size do you need the extra charge? Could you get by with an extra solar panel? A DCDC is easy and not that expensive anymore.
Something to think about, but the sky is not falling here, you might get by just fine .
Thank you for watching and asking great questions!
And thank you for your thoughtful response!
I have a question Brian. Will an oversized inverter ( say 2000 watts hooked up to a 100 Ah AGM battery) damage either the inverter or the battery ? I will have the appropriate protection to not deplete the battery below 50%. I’d like to oversize it now as I plan on expanding my battery capacity down the road. I’m thinking I will disconnect the inverter after I make coffee or run a small heater (500 watts) for 30 minutes in the morning to avoid running down the battery with the inverter on but not under load. Thanks in advance for the advice.
If your wires and fuses are correct, you can do that no problem. An AGM battery output a very high current, it can handle that inverter. The issue, as you know, is that the runtime is limited. You only have about 600 W hours before you're at 50%. Running that heater for 30 minutes might be 300wh after the efficiency losses are calculated in.
In short, you can definitely run that inverter, just be careful not to run down your battery too much .