Thanks man! 380 is rough estimate based on the on track, heat-soaked IATs. It dynos a bit higher. The 7163 has plenty of head room. Power is currently limited until I can get front caliper seal temps down. Aerated oil is an issue as well. Planning to address both in the next iteration.
@@chriswatson3238 AFCO or Superlite calipers? We ran a Radium separator with a drainback to the pan. Finally solved venting. BP6D has issues foaming the oil and blowby no matter what you do with the rings.
@@emilioc700 Brakes: I actually just switched from AFCO to Superlite. AFCO issues were melting the aluminum piston noses and $50/caliper seals being replaced every event. Wilwoods $10 seal kit, stainless or thermlock pistons (less heat transfer), and space for anti-knockback springs. Not a fan of the tiny bleeders though. Also using thin titanium and thick stainless pad shims. Both need pads flipped inside/out every day to even wear and occasionally left/right with the ABS wearing the outside corner. Wilwood Spec37 rotors seem to be slightly better than Colemans for crack resistance. Though if either are cracking, it's running too hot IMO, even if the car stops fine every time. Next step is routing the diffuser and oil coolers exit air to the brake package, 3'' ducts aren't enough.
@@emilioc700 Oil: Current system uses Radium AOS-R w/ check valve and 2qt accusump ECU controlled. Standard horizontal baffle plate and side plates with flap doors. Most on throttle pressures are 100% when everything is dialed. Late stage braking and initial corner off throttle dip to ~50%, which is still 35+ psi but at least 50% aeration. Maybe okay, but some situations cause the AOS-R to puke, and if the oil level decreases even a tiny bit (below F line on dipstick), it can start to aerate on power. Laguna isn't bad with the short and back and forth corners, Thunderhill seemed to have been an issue (insufficient AOS-R capacity) with the longer corners. The next step with the wet sump would be to go to a higher capacity AOS-R tank and run more oil in the pan. If I run above the F line now it finds it's way out of the AOS eventually. I've decided to go dry sump.
@@chriswatson3238 We're developing a new caliper and considering a vented titanium nosed aluminum piston in place of the steelies. Ti is worse than steel for conductivity so that's the attraction. Pricey though. There are non-AFCO options for the F88 seals. Just shop for seals by diameter. We found some Brembo alternates for a fraction of the price. But you're past that point I guess. Yah, mor ducting. The length of the hose from the nose restricts airflow a bunch. Option might be to take air from high pressure area in rad ducting instead of nose to cut length down a bit. That helped us. Monster build!
What a incredible car! I think you could make up a lot of time my not trying to carry so much speed into the corners and therefore being able to accelerate earlier.
Yes, I've noticed with the surplus power it is helpful to sacrifice some apex speed, get the car rotated, and maximize exit speed. I have to experiment with this more.
@@AndrewMalkin Tough to say exactly because there was some overlap with upgrading the ECU and adding DBW at the time. Assuming you can fabricate, install, and tune, I'd budget $8-10k to convert an MT car. Cost wise, the DCT slots between adapting a stronger MT and using a racing sequential.
@@chriswatson3238 if there’s one person that wants this in a kit, there’s gotta be more even if it ain’t a kit, affiliate links is a solid secondary option
There are shift lights on the dash obscured by the steering wheel. The car basically makes constant power above 6k and 90% of that by 5250RPM. I short shift in a few spots where it is traction limited.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
deleting those shift times gives you so much "artificial horsepower" and smooths your acceleration curve so much. cool project.
That g-meter hitting 1.4+ regularly is fucking sick, dude. Looks like a ton of fun to drive.
the turbo in the cabin makes such a nice sound it even comes through the camera's artifacting/bit crushing
The GoPro is hit or miss on the sound, a bit better in this video, but nothing compared to real life. ua-cam.com/video/8afZ0i2Mpjw/v-deo.html
That's fast for so heavy. Surprised only 380whp from EFR7163. Nice work.
Thanks man! 380 is rough estimate based on the on track, heat-soaked IATs. It dynos a bit higher. The 7163 has plenty of head room. Power is currently limited until I can get front caliper seal temps down. Aerated oil is an issue as well. Planning to address both in the next iteration.
@@chriswatson3238 AFCO or Superlite calipers? We ran a Radium separator with a drainback to the pan. Finally solved venting. BP6D has issues foaming the oil and blowby no matter what you do with the rings.
@@emilioc700 Brakes: I actually just switched from AFCO to Superlite. AFCO issues were melting the aluminum piston noses and $50/caliper seals being replaced every event. Wilwoods $10 seal kit, stainless or thermlock pistons (less heat transfer), and space for anti-knockback springs. Not a fan of the tiny bleeders though. Also using thin titanium and thick stainless pad shims. Both need pads flipped inside/out every day to even wear and occasionally left/right with the ABS wearing the outside corner. Wilwood Spec37 rotors seem to be slightly better than Colemans for crack resistance. Though if either are cracking, it's running too hot IMO, even if the car stops fine every time. Next step is routing the diffuser and oil coolers exit air to the brake package, 3'' ducts aren't enough.
@@emilioc700 Oil: Current system uses Radium AOS-R w/ check valve and 2qt accusump ECU controlled. Standard horizontal baffle plate and side plates with flap doors. Most on throttle pressures are 100% when everything is dialed. Late stage braking and initial corner off throttle dip to ~50%, which is still 35+ psi but at least 50% aeration. Maybe okay, but some situations cause the AOS-R to puke, and if the oil level decreases even a tiny bit (below F line on dipstick), it can start to aerate on power. Laguna isn't bad with the short and back and forth corners, Thunderhill seemed to have been an issue (insufficient AOS-R capacity) with the longer corners. The next step with the wet sump would be to go to a higher capacity AOS-R tank and run more oil in the pan. If I run above the F line now it finds it's way out of the AOS eventually. I've decided to go dry sump.
@@chriswatson3238 We're developing a new caliper and considering a vented titanium nosed aluminum piston in place of the steelies. Ti is worse than steel for conductivity so that's the attraction. Pricey though. There are non-AFCO options for the F88 seals. Just shop for seals by diameter. We found some Brembo alternates for a fraction of the price. But you're past that point I guess. Yah, mor ducting. The length of the hose from the nose restricts airflow a bunch. Option might be to take air from high pressure area in rad ducting instead of nose to cut length down a bit. That helped us. Monster build!
That’s some impressive driving my man
What a car!! Nice driving too
Sweet driving!
So happy for you Chris. Great lap.
Thanks man! Looking forward to seeing you out there next year.
This is a badass car
This is awesome.
What a incredible car!
I think you could make up a lot of time my not trying to carry so much speed into the corners and therefore being able to accelerate earlier.
Yes, I've noticed with the surplus power it is helpful to sacrifice some apex speed, get the car rotated, and maximize exit speed. I have to experiment with this more.
@@chriswatson3238 Yeah that sounds about right, good luck with this approach, I hope you'll find some more time!
1.8Gs is pretty crazy
how cool!
Fast!
Looks like ALOT of time and money put into this rocket
How expensive was the DCT swap, all in? It looks pretty awesome
@@AndrewMalkin Tough to say exactly because there was some overlap with upgrading the ECU and adding DBW at the time. Assuming you can fabricate, install, and tune, I'd budget $8-10k to convert an MT car. Cost wise, the DCT slots between adapting a stronger MT and using a racing sequential.
When are you selling a kit for this? Take my money
Ha! No plans for that but happy to share details. Feel free to reach out on FB: chris.watson.1840
@@chriswatson3238 if there’s one person that wants this in a kit, there’s gotta be more
even if it ain’t a kit, affiliate links is a solid secondary option
very cool, do you have it autobliping on the downshifts too? via maxxecu?
Yes, it rev-matches using rpm-dependent proportional control with an initial guess table. Easy to dial in on jack stands.
@@chriswatson3238 excellent, thanks for the info.
you could improve a bit if there was a way to tweak that display to show you the optimal shifting in between gears, cool vid though
There are shift lights on the dash obscured by the steering wheel. The car basically makes constant power above 6k and 90% of that by 5250RPM. I short shift in a few spots where it is traction limited.
@@chriswatson3238 I see! I saw you shifting at the same point in some parts and thought there were no shift lights.
Car must be soooo hard to drive
WOW. Do you ever run with Speed SF?
Yep, this lap was from last Saturday with them.
@@chriswatson3238 I write their blog and I love to feature your car if you're interested.
Hahaha I got a VTEC that will make this thing cry
no cage? lol
It's on the list.