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Chris Watson
Приєднався 22 вер 2013
Miata Turbo DCT - Gridlife Thunderhill East - 1:53.8
First time at Thunderhill and a lot more to learn, especially over the blind crests. This lap was good enough for third place, 0.15 seconds off the leader. Great competition overall with top five separated by only 1.3 seconds and the winner decided in the final heat.
Gridlife 241117 65F ambient
BP6D EFR 7163 @ ~400 whp
GS7D36SG DCT (MaxxECU)
245/R15 Nankang CR-S ~15 HC.
Est ~2900+ lbs (w/ Driver)
SPM Xida 1400/800
Brofab FBBK PFC01/97 F/R
MK60E5 ABS
Wing and (damaged) Splitter
3.23 Rear End
Some build photos here:
photos.app.goo.gl/Zo9pmgh4i588jDjQ7
SpeedSF blog article on the car here:
speedsf.com/blog/2024/12/30/chris-dct-swapped-miata-seeing-the-big-picture
Gridlife 241117 65F ambient
BP6D EFR 7163 @ ~400 whp
GS7D36SG DCT (MaxxECU)
245/R15 Nankang CR-S ~15 HC.
Est ~2900+ lbs (w/ Driver)
SPM Xida 1400/800
Brofab FBBK PFC01/97 F/R
MK60E5 ABS
Wing and (damaged) Splitter
3.23 Rear End
Some build photos here:
photos.app.goo.gl/Zo9pmgh4i588jDjQ7
SpeedSF blog article on the car here:
speedsf.com/blog/2024/12/30/chris-dct-swapped-miata-seeing-the-big-picture
Переглядів: 436
Відео
Miata Turbo DCT - Laguna Seca - 1:33.9
Переглядів 7 тис.Місяць тому
Finally put a 33 on the board after being stuck in the 34s for most of the year. Car remains much quicker than the driver. Last session of the year before the motor comes out for a refresh and some improvements. SpeedSF 241130 ~65F ambient BP6D EFR 7163 @ ~380 whp GS7D36SG DCT (MaxxECU) 245/R15 Nankang CR-S 25 HC. Est ~2900 lbs (w/ Driver) SPM Xida 1400/800 Brofab FBBK PFC01/97 F/R MK60E5 ABS W...
Miata Turbo DCT - Laguna Seca - Turn8 240106
Переглядів 76911 місяців тому
Mid morning session with some traffic. Cooler day (~50-55F) testing new CR-S tires, which seem to tolerate more heat than the CR-1. Lost the brake booster right at the end (internal leak), suspect it was due years of use without heat shielding near turbo/exhaust. BP6D EFR 7163 @ ~340 whp GS7D36SG DCT (MaxxECU) 245/R15 Nankang CR-S Est ~2900 lbs (w/ Driver) SPM Xida 1400/800 Brofab FBBK Wing and...
Miata Turbo DCT - NCRC Laguna Seca 231209 - 1:35
Переглядів 227Рік тому
1:35.8 lap in video. PB 1:35.4. Starting to learn the track, a long way to go. Improved downshift strategy and longer rear end. BP6D EFR 7163 @ ~340 whp GS7D36SG DCT (MaxxECU) 245/R15 Nankang CR-1 (2 yrs old, badly flatspotted) Est ~2900 lbs (w/ Driver) SPM Xida 1400/800 Brofab FBBK Wing and Splitter 3.23 Rear End Some build photos here photos.app.goo.gl/Zo9pmgh4i588jDjQ7
Miata Turbo DCT Shakedown - Gridlife Laguna 2023 - 1:37
Переглядів 642Рік тому
Messy but best lap from a weekend dotted with truncated sessions and lingering issues on the car after a long downtime while trying to learn a new track. First hot lap without power steering after loosing it in the previous session. Overall a successful shakedown with a revised engine, ECU, DCT, and cooling systems working well. BP6D EFR 7163 @ ~300-325 whp GS7D36SG DCT (MaxxECU) 245/R15 Nankan...
Miata Turbo Gingerman Oct 2020 - 1:39
Переглядів 175Рік тому
Miata NB Turbo ~280whp TD04-20T ~2800 lbs with driver Old 245 RS4s on 15x10 Bilstein HD 450/350 Wing and splitter 6spd, 3.42 rear end. Speedo reads a bit slow.
Hey man just have a good read on SpeedSF blog, it says you're using Benz ball joint, what exactly were you using&replacing?
Thanks! Info on the ball joints is here facebook.com/share/p/1XZfoYvGgo/
Sweet build bro. Constructive criticism: little hot coming into the corners, I'll bet that thing has a second and a half more in it with practice...
This car is foookin' awesome! Well done! I hope to meet up at a SpeedSF event in 2025
How expensive was the DCT swap, all in? It looks pretty awesome
@@AndrewMalkin Tough to say exactly because there was some overlap with upgrading the ECU and adding DBW at the time. Assuming you can fabricate, install, and tune, I'd budget $8-10k to convert an MT car. Cost wise, the DCT slots between adapting a stronger MT and using a racing sequential.
Mate your driving skills are brilliant and that Miata .. god she rocks!! Amazing build!
what steering wheel is that? the badge is so nice
just seen the album of ur car.. are those rx8 hood vents on your car? everything is so clean holy
Steering wheel is Sparco R383 Champion 330mm perforated leather. Badge is from Revlimiter. Hood and fender vents are custom.
@@chriswatson3238 following the channel, hope to see more posts
Hahaha I got a VTEC that will make this thing cry
That’s some impressive driving my man
Epic.
What coiilovers do you have
Xida Gen2 with 1400/800 springs
@@chriswatson3238 How do the rear dampers manage with that much spring rate on them? The sale page says they're really only intended for up to ~600 lb springs.
@@ch_chone Good question, I asked the same before buying them. 949 said up to 800 is fine. I run the rears at about 15-16/20 clicks (~75% stiff) IIRC. My tuning strategy on the dampers so far is to set the fronts as a compromise between turn in crispness and not upsetting the car too much on apex curbs. The rears are then set to get the desired rotation on turn in. Since the car usually has surplus power, I can manage the exits with the throttle. This is probably a compromised approach (coupling ride to handling) but without a really tunable diff, it has worked okay so far. Overall the current setup prioritizes front splitter height/control with a (relatively) compliant rear to put the power down. I would reach out to 949 on your application, they are really helpful.
@@chriswatson3238 that's good feedback and your method sounds reasonable. Thanks!
@@chriswatson3238 thankyou :)
1.8Gs is pretty crazy
Badass driving!
Car must be soooo hard to drive
This is awesome.
you could improve a bit if there was a way to tweak that display to show you the optimal shifting in between gears, cool vid though
There are shift lights on the dash obscured by the steering wheel. The car basically makes constant power above 6k and 90% of that by 5250RPM. I short shift in a few spots where it is traction limited.
@@chriswatson3238 I see! I saw you shifting at the same point in some parts and thought there were no shift lights.
This is a badass car
Looks like ALOT of time and money put into this rocket
deleting those shift times gives you so much "artificial horsepower" and smooths your acceleration curve so much. cool project.
What a car!! Nice driving too
So happy for you Chris. Great lap.
Thanks man! Looking forward to seeing you out there next year.
What a incredible car! I think you could make up a lot of time my not trying to carry so much speed into the corners and therefore being able to accelerate earlier.
Yes, I've noticed with the surplus power it is helpful to sacrifice some apex speed, get the car rotated, and maximize exit speed. I have to experiment with this more.
@@chriswatson3238 Yeah that sounds about right, good luck with this approach, I hope you'll find some more time!
the turbo in the cabin makes such a nice sound it even comes through the camera's artifacting/bit crushing
The GoPro is hit or miss on the sound, a bit better in this video, but nothing compared to real life. ua-cam.com/video/8afZ0i2Mpjw/v-deo.html
no cage? lol
It's on the list.
very cool, do you have it autobliping on the downshifts too? via maxxecu?
Yes, it rev-matches using rpm-dependent proportional control with an initial guess table. Easy to dial in on jack stands.
@@chriswatson3238 excellent, thanks for the info.
Sweet driving!
Which DCT did you install?
It's the first generation, short ratio GS7D36SG from E9X M3/Z4. The long ratio box wasn't supported by MaxxECU when I started my project. The long ratio (Gen2) DCT is now supported and a good option as is the 8HP, which might be best for a street car.
WOW. Do you ever run with Speed SF?
Yep, this lap was from last Saturday with them.
@@chriswatson3238 I write their blog and I love to feature your car if you're interested.
how cool!
That g-meter hitting 1.4+ regularly is fucking sick, dude. Looks like a ton of fun to drive.
Fast!
That's fast for so heavy. Surprised only 380whp from EFR7163. Nice work.
Thanks man! 380 is rough estimate based on the on track, heat-soaked IATs. It dynos a bit higher. The 7163 has plenty of head room. Power is currently limited until I can get front caliper seal temps down. Aerated oil is an issue as well. Planning to address both in the next iteration.
@@chriswatson3238 AFCO or Superlite calipers? We ran a Radium separator with a drainback to the pan. Finally solved venting. BP6D has issues foaming the oil and blowby no matter what you do with the rings.
@@emilioc700 Brakes: I actually just switched from AFCO to Superlite. AFCO issues were melting the aluminum piston noses and $50/caliper seals being replaced every event. Wilwoods $10 seal kit, stainless or thermlock pistons (less heat transfer), and space for anti-knockback springs. Not a fan of the tiny bleeders though. Also using thin titanium and thick stainless pad shims. Both need pads flipped inside/out every day to even wear and occasionally left/right with the ABS wearing the outside corner. Wilwood Spec37 rotors seem to be slightly better than Colemans for crack resistance. Though if either are cracking, it's running too hot IMO, even if the car stops fine every time. Next step is routing the diffuser and oil coolers exit air to the brake package, 3'' ducts aren't enough.
@@emilioc700 Oil: Current system uses Radium AOS-R w/ check valve and 2qt accusump ECU controlled. Standard horizontal baffle plate and side plates with flap doors. Most on throttle pressures are 100% when everything is dialed. Late stage braking and initial corner off throttle dip to ~50%, which is still 35+ psi but at least 50% aeration. Maybe okay, but some situations cause the AOS-R to puke, and if the oil level decreases even a tiny bit (below F line on dipstick), it can start to aerate on power. Laguna isn't bad with the short and back and forth corners, Thunderhill seemed to have been an issue (insufficient AOS-R capacity) with the longer corners. The next step with the wet sump would be to go to a higher capacity AOS-R tank and run more oil in the pan. If I run above the F line now it finds it's way out of the AOS eventually. I've decided to go dry sump.
@@chriswatson3238 We're developing a new caliper and considering a vented titanium nosed aluminum piston in place of the steelies. Ti is worse than steel for conductivity so that's the attraction. Pricey though. There are non-AFCO options for the F88 seals. Just shop for seals by diameter. We found some Brembo alternates for a fraction of the price. But you're past that point I guess. Yah, mor ducting. The length of the hose from the nose restricts airflow a bunch. Option might be to take air from high pressure area in rad ducting instead of nose to cut length down a bit. That helped us. Monster build!
When are you selling a kit for this? Take my money
Ha! No plans for that but happy to share details. Feel free to reach out on FB: chris.watson.1840
@@chriswatson3238 if there’s one person that wants this in a kit, there’s gotta be more even if it ain’t a kit, affiliate links is a solid secondary option
Hey! I was gridded up next to you in the yellow and black nb. Are you going to the october/december laguna days?
Hey yea I remember you handsome. I'll be there and I hope you are too. 😘
Hey curious you got Instagram at all?
Hi JC, no insta, bit behind the times. There are some build photos in the album linked in the description.
Nice, what paddle shifters are those? were they hard to set up in maxxecu ?
Ascher Racing paddles on a custom bracket. Paddles are wired to a resistor divider circuit in the wheel, through the Mazda clock spring, and into an analog input. Set up in MaxxECU was easy as a multiposition switch. It was important to use signal ground instead of chassis ground.
@@chriswatson3238 Thank you so much for the detailed answer brother! I'll be copying this
This is insane dude!!
I was at this track day! this thing is sick! Do you have any more photos of the car?!
Some build photos here: photos.app.goo.gl/Zo9pmgh4i588jDjQ7
The adaptor puts the transmission pan level with the miata subframe? Or does it hang down some? Hard to gauge from the photos. Car looks like a riot!
Engine is raised 10mm. Leading edge of the BMW OE transmission pan is 15mm below the stock frame rails and subframe. The splitter is the same height as the transmission pan at ~75mm and the splitter is wearing gradually without evidence of anything else hitting the ground. I think the 1400/800 springs help a lot here. The car would bottom regularly on 450/350 with higher ride heights and longer bump stops.
what a machine! great.
That thing looks like a rocket! Would be interested to see your cooling set up...
Hi Jordan, there are some photos here photos.app.goo.gl/Zo9pmgh4i588jDjQ7. The cooling setup is crude but it works for now. MHX520 side coolers for trans and oil vent to wheel wells. Got about a ~20-30F drop in oil and coolant from moving the oil from the center stack to a separate side cooler. Center stack from front to back is 1) 7 row for power steering 2) TR8 intercooler 3) C7 condenser 4) Griffin GRI-1-26242-X converted to triple pass. Not totally sealed in the front and vents to the engine bay. In 60-65F ambient powertrain temps are just above the thermostats after 8-10 laps at this power level. ~205F for coolant and oil, ~180F for transmission, 90-135F IAT. Got up to 220F coolant after drafting a 992 GT3 closely for a few laps. 3'' ducts for the front brakes to rotor centers. Need to add cooling for rear rotors (sport discs + calipers).
@chriswatson3238 thanks for the pics. That's awesome man. Looks like a lot of fab work!
Do you have a build thread published somewhere? I would love to see pics of the DCT install.
No thread unfortunately, but here are some pics: photos.app.goo.gl/Zo9pmgh4i588jDjQ7