As a mechanic i can tell you that both these electric motors in the black halves are easily repairable : the motors are ridiculously smal and tend to stick from unuse and carbon powder from the brush dust. Its like cleaning and reasembling a mini car starter , with an armature and brushes etc. Just remove the black cap, making sure to take a picture of the internal gear timing in case it falls off , cause it needs to go back in the exact same position. Same story with front actuator
Removed the 4hi position sensor. Sprayed a little pb blaster on the tip and scrubbed it with sandpaper, worked it back in forth till it moved freely and 4wd worked like a champ with no more lights.
My 2004 was stuck in 4WD. Removed the two sensor switches on top of the actuator motor. Looked OK. Did not indicate open circuit. Cleaned the eletrical connectors. Reinstalled. Still stuck in 4WD. Removed black plastic cover to actuator. Did notice similar crack as yours alongside one of the screws but did not go all the way through. Inside of cover was dry and rust free. Did notice a couple of large balls of grease on surface of metal spirals. Removed these. Made sure metal surfaces clean. Reinstalled. Hey presto came straight out of 4WD. Not brave enough to try and engage the 4WD just yet. Will wait till I need it. Up in Minnesota so won't be long!
I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.
I removed the rear actuator, cleaned it, and bench tested it. It tested good w/motor and plastic gear moving. After reinstallation, it is back to the original flashing 4 high light with no engagement. To check the wiring to the actuator, I removed the actuator again, but left it plugged in. I tuned the Tundra to ignition accessory on and hit the 4 high button. You could hear the actuator motor turn. Reinstalled it again with no luck. Back to the flashing high with no engagement. After researching more, I’m beginning to think the rod coming out of the transfer case is stuck. I removed the actuator again. The rod will turn, but not pull out any further. I used vice grips and wrapped the rod with a towel, but did not force it. When you removed your actuator, did you notice if the rod would slid out towards the rear of the truck? That is what the rear actuator does is slide it towards the rear for 4wd high. Then 1 more position further back for for 4wd low. Any help would be appreciated. 2000 Tundra w/107K miles and clean transfer case oil. Front actuator clicks in fine and you can hear it move the fork.
Tricky, not sure about this. They talk about the position switches. If they are not happy then it won't allow things to move. I'm thinking you should be able to engage by hand some how. I'm thinking you will need some vehicle or shaft movement to get things to mesh. I don't want to suggest dangerous experiments unless you know how to keep it super safe. Me personally.. i would be on perfectly flat concrete and I would safety chuck the tires to limit travel. Then I would get help and see if I could engage manually with some movement of the truck back and fourth. I think this could be done with it NOT running and in neutral and with simply pushing it forward and back. Key on to make motors run.. body positioned where it's impossible to be run over even if a ghost starts the truck... it's possible a bit of movement may allow gears to mesh and engagement or disengagement to occur, be safe.
I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.
Thanks for the video, mine goes into four wheel drive, light flashes, to get it out I have to turn the engine off turn the switch off then when I turn the engine on it comes out, what does it sound like to you.
My 4WD was never really used and i accidentally turned it on and now it won’t go out of 4WD what do you think is the problem? Does it just need to be cleaned or something?
Same problem with mine, had flashing 4wd when engaging but no 4wd. I’ve replaced the front diff actuator as I can hear the transfer case actuator engage. I’ve got 4wd working! Solid light and wheels lock up like their supposed too. But now the 4wd light flashes all the time in 2wd….. I’ve tested it, and it all disengages correctly, no binding or anything. I also read the manual and it said, “flashing in 2wd indicates it’s not completely disengaged out of 4H.” I’m thinking it’s that sensor you pointed out on the transfer case for 4H. What’s your Thoughts? I’m going to try cleaning or replacing that sensor! (4Low works perfectly by the way)
Yes, could be sensor but my guess is possibly an alignment of the gears when putting back in. I think counter clockwise disengages the 4x4 so you want the switch off then insert actuator and then cycle to see if it works. It seems like it may be off just a few teeth.
It's an expensive fishing expidition.. I'm not sure replacing it was the first move. I would get a trusted garage with scanning equipment to try and narrow it down. It's usually the simple stupid stuff that's cheap. Check the movement of your actuators. If you see all the comments 99% of the issues seem to be dirty contact or broken contacts inside the actuators. They are pretty simple once you get the hang of it. They come off easy with good tools and then you can clean and test on the bench. This is after you tested to see if they were running on the vehicle. Remember, they will often operate with just the key on so you'll be able to hear things better, motor not running. GL
My 4wd engages and disengages but the 4hi light keeps flashing .I replaced 4hi indicator switch on the Actuator motor and the light stop flashing now 2 months later I used my 4wd and it’s keeps flashing again but my 4wd works . I notice that the engagement indicator switch is spring loaded and has a bearing does the shaft of the transfer case push on the indicator switch which tells the light to stop flashing or is it the transfer case oil build pressure and push the switch , so if the transfer case fluid is low would it cause the indicator switch to not sense that it disengaged and keeps flashin?
When I opened my front differential actuator where the for is the slider inside the differential is not there do I have to shift it or something to make it move so I can put the new one in
Hi, did you see all 3 vids? Do some testing to see which actuator is not running. You should be able to do with motor not running so you can hear or feel the motors working, might need helper. Does your local garage have computer to run diagnostics?
I have a leak from the O ring on the transfer case actuator " the same on the video " the actuator works nothing wrong , just leaks, and I searched everywhere for the part number for that O ring no luck and Mechanics & Electricians in the country I'm in won't try even opening it so you can take that O ring and go to part shops to see a similar size.. so .. if anyone knows that part number? please help me with it ..
Any update to this? I have an 07 tundra and have replaced the front a.d.d. And the two front wheel speed sensors, still have a flashing 4Hi with no 4wd at all.
Try going to low as well, then just exercise it a bit more. Drive straight engage and disengage... Try reverse too, if no luck , then with truck not running, key on, have someone push button and listen for actuator motors running, front and rear.
I'm getting ready to remove my front ADD to clean it up like you did. Is it necessary to drain the front diff fluid before removing the ADD? Thanks for very helpful videos!
@@wetlifesports Wow, really tough to get the ADD out after unbolting it! The space is very tight. I managed to finally work it out past all of the stuff in the way but now I am wondering how I will get it back in without messing up the new gasket in the process. Any suggestions? I have unbolted a couple of what I think are trans cooler lines so I can move them but it will still be tough. What did you use for new gasket material? Thanks for your help! BTW, my problem seems to be identical to yours. The motor runs strong but there was grease all over the contacts which I think were making for bad connections. Hopefully everything works when I get it back together!
@@kaohiahuna7662 I got everything back together and it worked but I learned a couple of valuable lessons. First, don't remove the whole ADD actuator if you don't have to, just remove the cover. If you remove the whole thing you will have to drain at least some of the diff fluid, plus it's really tough to get out due to the limited space. Second, make sure the big brown gear with the finger contacts stays in place. You will see it when you take the cover off. Take a picture of it in case it comes off so you can put it back in exactly the same position. You will also lose some diff fluid if it comes off. Basically, just remove the cover, clean up the old grease, test the motor per the part 2 video, put a light layer of dielectric grease on the contacts and put it back together. Let me know how it works out for you.
I have a 2002 tundra and had to remove and clean the water out of it.. I tested and motor runs and works BUT I cant not get it back togather so the lights quit flashing. Questions where does the shifter rod need to be when installing and where does the huge plastic gear go to get it all aligned
Hi Alan, I had a 2002 as well, loved it! Are we talking about the front actuator? If so I believe I recall clockwise engaged it and counter dis-engaged it. But, I would cycle the system to make sure your actuators are on the same page. Meaning the rear actuator as well. I would turn off the 4X4 and make sure it dis-engages at least the rear, meaning you may have to drive it back and fourth in a straight line, slow and gentle. If you think you got the rear dis engaged, you can check to see if the drive shaft leaving the transfer case headed forward spins freely, then go underneath and see if you can gently turn the front gear and shaft counter clockwise to disengage the front wheels. Pay attention to your 4x4 indicator lights while doing this stuff. If this works put the gear back on in a way that will line up with the worm gear in the motor housing. Put it back together partly, meaning sung but easy enough to try again. Don't forget to plug the power lead in. If this doesn't work try the opposite, try to get it all engaged. Remember you need to drive the vehicle to get any of this to work, the system won't mate up unless the gears are moving. If this still does not work check the other systems. If the position switches on the transfer case are bad it won't get the correct signals. Call a garage and see if they have the computer to scan it and narrow it down for you. If they tell you something is bad you can focus on that part and clean it up or replace it. Make sure you have good lighting to see the small details of lining things up under there. Be careful. Good luck.
Have you try taking out the actuator from the transfer case.. does your actuator come out with the shaft..I'm trying to fix mines but alot of videos I see the actuator dont have shaft but the stores have ones with shaft
My rear actuator motor runs when the button is pushed, but the hose nipple is broken off and hose hanging disconnected. My front one, the hose is fine, but it makes zero noise when 4hi button is pushed.😳 My 2006 tundra WILL go into 4 low, but only when I put truck in park, push 4hi button, and immediately shut truck off. When I turn it back on, truck is in 4low. Should I start by replacing rear sensors?
That's strange... I might try to get it scanned by someone to narrow it down. I think I understand your conclusion, maybe your right. I had not thought of how it works until you mention this. I think you enlightened me. I think there is a test for those switches online somewhere, maybe Google that test too. If that switch is not too expensive I might take a shot but a scan might help. Good luck, let us know what you learn. Thx
Mine doesnt engage till truck warms up when its below freezing. Also It will flash will accelerating till i let off the gas and it goes in. Its slow for sure, compared to others ive driven. Anyone know why?
Plz a vidio of transfer case actuator timing of 4th generation 4runner 2700cc. My 4runnner actuator has two rods to fit in. It has two sets of gears and motors each one in a separate case with separate incioder. Plz help
Errr, mine just failed again this week. Just keeps flashing. I guess i can't blame her. Ian submerged the entire system. I'm shocked the truck still works at all. I tried the 4x4 a few time after the Hurricane and it worked. I guess the corrosion is catching up. She has a few other quirks as well. She tries to lock me out all the time now. I guess ill make more fix it videos if i can.
I’m still trying to decide if I should take my tundra has brand new tires off road but horrible on the snow ❄️ or my 2012 Honda accord v6 3.5 has new tires too . Moab is freaking gorgeous I go there a list 6 times a year. I live in Salt Lake City Utah so not that far from salt Lake is 229 miles away from salt Lake 4 hours away
So everything works fine? I can't tell what your saying without punctuation. Are you saying it does all of this on its own? It may be dirty or have too much grease or it may have a crack in the metal contact paths. Maybe just use it once per day for a week and see if it clears up.
What role does vacuum play on the front differential freewheel clutch on a Pajero installed with a 4m40 engine? Precisely, how does that pajero's 4wd work?
Thanks for these videos... I have a somewhat similar issue. My 4WD/2WD system works perfectly!... However, I still get the flashing 4low (yellow) light blinking on the selector button and I get a similar light blinking in the dash. Again my system works perfectly.. just not sure why the the blinking lights. I have tired to disconnect the battery etc. Any ideas? Maybe a sensor?
Glad they helped. Not sure, try using it everyday for a few days for a few seconds. Might just be the sensors but I imagine something is making the sensor trigger. Could be excessive grease, a short in the contacts. Are you sure its fully engaging? Do the front wheels spin on mud and hook up? Go all the way into low too. good luck
No, they just need to be put back in the same way. I'll be posting a new video showing that soon. I just re-fixed mine as my truck got flooded in Ian and the front one failed again. A good cleaning fixed it.
I have a 03 sequoia I’m sitting high not low and every time I turn on the 4wd it works but then I hear this grinding noise from underneath the front driver side when it’s on 4wd and then when I shut it off it goes back to 2wd the grinding noise still there. When I take off on a light going slow you can hear the grinding noise when your cruising it’s gone only when your moving slow you can hear please help.
Hi, sorry so slow. It sounds like partial engagement of the front diff. I would go thru the steps of testing the front. Exercise it going slow forward and reverse. Try low too. Listen for your actuator motors to see if they are running, you can do this with motor off and help from a friend. If exercise does not make a difference, pull the front actuator and clean it up inside, checking the things I point out in the 3 videos. Good luck.
I have a toyota 4runner 2001 3.4 which i guess is the same ....the transfer case actuator isn't working how it should work...i had the cover and the plastic gear pulled out and someone told me that the plastic gear can only set on one spot....do you know exactly witch spot should it be placed?
Get it all in either the engaged position or Dis engaged. I think clockwise engages the 4x4, so counter clockwise Dis engages. Make sure the button has cycled off, the shaft is turned counter clockwise, the whole system is dis enguaged, then put it together as far as needed to test. GL
Are you sure it was the transfer case actuator? Did you test to see what was running and what wasn't? Just from sound, vibration? I think it can be done motor off, in neutral, BUT blocked good and on flat surface for safety!!
My light is blinking on my 07 I cannot figure out what is causing it. I can put it in 4x4 then in it will go in and I can take it out but other than that it will not do anything if I crank truck up then try to put it in 4x4. Who did you get to scan it?
Can't tell if your saying it works but light blinks or if it's dosent work at all. I got my local garage to scan it. Just call a few until you find one that has a computer good enough to narrow it down for you. GL
Depending on its history, weather it's used alot or in deep water or barely used. Most are barely used and just regular exercise gets them going again.
No but it's straight forward, you want good tools. I bought a good JIS screw driver set, "Japanese Industry Standard" they make a big diff. They have the grip tips and one of them has that stuck screw design meaning you can hit it with a hammer and its designed to turn slightly upon impact to crack it loose. But I think you may need to use socket sets with Phillips tips, use good tips, and and extension and a swivel adapter. BUT, start off with a good shot of wd40, a few times. Good luck
@@wetlifesports i took the plastic cover off and pulled out the plastic gear assembly it was super easy i did not need to take that top cover off and pull the small gear out.
Just follow the pointers in the 3 videos and read some of the comments, first check to see if your front and back actuator motors are running, go from there.
hey buddy, this is the problem i having on my 2006 tundra. Brought to Toyota for diagnostic and they found tbe actuator was bad. dealer wanted 3200$ plus taxes. can't afford their price. asked and they gave me the parf#. I bought a brand new oem part and do a short cut when installed. I installed the new actuator onto my old shaft. after connecting all the wire connectors, start the truck and right away the 4L light flashing. it's flashes before I even turns to 4wd. WHAT'S GOING ON AND WHY?. I did an experiment by swapping out my friends' to my truck and it works fine. let me know 9you think. thanks
Hi, I found despite the computer diagnosis from my mechanic that my front actuator was still good, my 4x4 is now working again and continues to. Did you watch all 3 videos. Both the front and back actuator are virtually identical so I imagine the issues are much the same. You might be able to coax your system, even the old actuator into working by cycling it manually or semi manually. Do the testing I point to, listen to see if motors are running see if the transfer shaft engages, pull the motors and hot wire, make sure you don't have excessive grease in there. Turn the shaft manually and see if you get 4x4. To enguage try reverse, turning a bit, etc. Good luck
Hi, Yes, your right, I was wishful thinking out loud, misspoke. In my case Never means 99% of the time. At 60K this current Tundra lost the rear differential, I was very surprised as my previous tundra never had any transmission issues. So when I was done with that repair, and some front brakes.. I think I was close to 4500!! Ouch!! I lost a bit of faith temporarily but knock on wood I have not been left on the road side ever, dangerous statement... With the noisy Diff, I drove thousands of miles with just an odd drone. My local mechanic was thinking tires, another one said front diff, another one said wheel bearings.. I literally got 4 different opinions then finally put that info together with the knowledge that there was metal particles in the rear Diff oil. She is good now and better be for life!! at least as far as diffs go... :0 Still, I get total pleasure driving it everyday, so smooth, so quiet and personally the seats make my back better! I looked and looked and personally didn't find anything I liked better new or used. Good size for me and we all know its just personal preference. Since owning 4 runners, highlanders, LX470 and tundras since 1997, I have had the best of luck. I do think they have gone downhill a bit, got a bit more plastic, tinny, etc. I got a new Tundra loaner when they were doing my diff and holy cow powerful but did not like the fit and finish on the inside. Granted, it was not the limited with leather at 50K plus.. For the most part all we ever do is change the oil and very rarely does anything major happen and what is nice is that the little stuff never fails. I have never had a power window fail, door locks, etc. etc. So they don't annoy you with little stuff and I love the ergonomics. To me 99% of everything is in the right place. I like simple stuff that works, if it works keep the design the same. Maybe I am ""getting old" I can't stand the new cars with the touch screen stuff everywhere in that it takes you 20 minutes to figure out how to tune the radio and dim the dash lights. You have to pull over to adjust anything because it requires you to stare at the screen and not watch the road. We have a newer Honda Odyssey and to me it is horribly designed in terms of controls, I was not smart enough to see it upon purchase and its hard to avoid. I like the handling, motor, transmission and the body, doors, etc. but the controls and dash are horrible IMO. Seats not great to me either. Wife likes it so were good. Well, I got carried away, design is one of my favorite subjects. Take care.
As a mechanic i can tell you that both these electric motors in the black halves are easily repairable : the motors are ridiculously smal and tend to stick from unuse and carbon powder from the brush dust. Its like cleaning and reasembling a mini car starter , with an armature and brushes etc. Just remove the black cap, making sure to take a picture of the internal gear timing in case it falls off , cause it needs to go back in the exact same position. Same story with front actuator
Yes, good advice. I did take one apart and was lucky to get her back together with help from my daughters little fingers.. thx.
Would these freezing up make for a situation where it only shifts into 4 low but not 4 hi?
Removed the 4hi position sensor. Sprayed a little pb blaster on the tip and scrubbed it with sandpaper, worked it back in forth till it moved freely and 4wd worked like a champ with no more lights.
Shedding new light. Thx
My 2004 was stuck in 4WD. Removed the two sensor switches on top of the actuator motor. Looked OK. Did not indicate open circuit. Cleaned the eletrical connectors. Reinstalled. Still stuck in 4WD. Removed black plastic cover to actuator. Did notice similar crack as yours alongside one of the screws but did not go all the way through. Inside of cover was dry and rust free. Did notice a couple of large balls of grease on surface of metal spirals. Removed these. Made sure metal surfaces clean. Reinstalled. Hey presto came straight out of 4WD. Not brave enough to try and engage the 4WD just yet. Will wait till I need it. Up in Minnesota so won't be long!
Nice!
I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.
Dude thank you so much I didn't know there were two add actuators!!!!!
Your welcome, I didn't either in the beginning...
Good info, I hope other folks see this, sounds like this could be the issue for many
I removed the rear actuator, cleaned it, and bench tested it. It tested good w/motor and plastic gear moving. After reinstallation, it is back to the original flashing 4 high light with no engagement. To check the wiring to the actuator, I removed the actuator again, but left it plugged in. I tuned the Tundra to ignition accessory on and hit the 4 high button. You could hear the actuator motor turn. Reinstalled it again with no luck. Back to the flashing high with no engagement. After researching more, I’m beginning to think the rod coming out of the transfer case is stuck. I removed the actuator again. The rod will turn, but not pull out any further. I used vice grips and wrapped the rod with a towel, but did not force it. When you removed your actuator, did you notice if the rod would slid out towards the rear of the truck? That is what the rear actuator does is slide it towards the rear for 4wd high. Then 1 more position further back for for 4wd low. Any help would be appreciated. 2000 Tundra w/107K miles and clean transfer case oil. Front actuator clicks in fine and you can hear it move the fork.
Tricky, not sure about this. They talk about the position switches. If they are not happy then it won't allow things to move. I'm thinking you should be able to engage by hand some how. I'm thinking you will need some vehicle or shaft movement to get things to mesh. I don't want to suggest dangerous experiments unless you know how to keep it super safe. Me personally.. i would be on perfectly flat concrete and I would safety chuck the tires to limit travel. Then I would get help and see if I could engage manually with some movement of the truck back and fourth. I think this could be done with it NOT running and in neutral and with simply pushing it forward and back. Key on to make motors run.. body positioned where it's impossible to be run over even if a ghost starts the truck... it's possible a bit of movement may allow gears to mesh and engagement or disengagement to occur, be safe.
I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.
Thanks for the video, mine goes into four wheel drive, light flashes, to get it out I have to turn the engine off turn the switch off then when I turn the engine on it comes out, what does it sound like to you.
My 4WD was never really used and i accidentally turned it on and now it won’t go out of 4WD what do you think is the problem? Does it just need to be cleaned or something?
I have this truck! At first the 4wd wouldn't go in, and now it wont come out!!
What was ur fix
Same problem with mine, had flashing 4wd when engaging but no 4wd.
I’ve replaced the front diff actuator as I can hear the transfer case actuator engage.
I’ve got 4wd working! Solid light and wheels lock up like their supposed too. But now the 4wd light flashes all the time in 2wd…..
I’ve tested it, and it all disengages correctly, no binding or anything. I also read the manual and it said, “flashing in 2wd indicates it’s not completely disengaged out of 4H.”
I’m thinking it’s that sensor you pointed out on the transfer case for 4H. What’s your Thoughts? I’m going to try cleaning or replacing that sensor!
(4Low works perfectly by the way)
Yes, could be sensor but my guess is possibly an alignment of the gears when putting back in. I think counter clockwise disengages the 4x4 so you want the switch off then insert actuator and then cycle to see if it works. It seems like it may be off just a few teeth.
I have an 05 V8 4Runner the CDL was stuck so we replaced the t case with a used one and now the it's stuck in 4lo. Any suggestions on what to try?
It's an expensive fishing expidition.. I'm not sure replacing it was the first move. I would get a trusted garage with scanning equipment to try and narrow it down. It's usually the simple stupid stuff that's cheap. Check the movement of your actuators. If you see all the comments 99% of the issues seem to be dirty contact or broken contacts inside the actuators. They are pretty simple once you get the hang of it. They come off easy with good tools and then you can clean and test on the bench. This is after you tested to see if they were running on the vehicle. Remember, they will often operate with just the key on so you'll be able to hear things better, motor not running. GL
My 4wd engages and disengages but the 4hi light keeps flashing .I replaced 4hi indicator switch on the Actuator motor and the light stop flashing now 2 months later I used my 4wd and it’s keeps flashing again but my 4wd works . I notice that the engagement indicator switch is spring loaded and has a bearing does the shaft of the transfer case push on the indicator switch which tells the light to stop flashing or is it the transfer case oil build pressure and push the switch , so if the transfer case fluid is low would it cause the indicator switch to not sense that it disengaged and keeps flashin?
When I opened my front differential actuator where the for is the slider inside the differential is not there do I have to shift it or something to make it move so I can put the new one in
My transfer case motor looks different but I also have a 2005. I have one main connector plug going into the motor but I don't have the two sensors.
Hi, did you see all 3 vids? Do some testing to see which actuator is not running. You should be able to do with motor not running so you can hear or feel the motors working, might need helper. Does your local garage have computer to run diagnostics?
I have a leak from the O ring on the transfer case actuator " the same on the video " the actuator works nothing wrong , just leaks, and I searched everywhere for the part number for that O ring no luck and Mechanics & Electricians in the country I'm in won't try even opening it so you can take that O ring and go to part shops to see a similar size.. so .. if anyone knows that part number? please help me with it ..
@@esmail88 yes, just pull it and match up.
موفق باشی
thanks
Yw
Any update to this? I have an 07 tundra and have replaced the front a.d.d. And the two front wheel speed sensors, still have a flashing 4Hi with no 4wd at all.
Try going to low as well, then just exercise it a bit more. Drive straight engage and disengage... Try reverse too, if no luck , then with truck not running, key on, have someone push button and listen for actuator motors running, front and rear.
I'm getting ready to remove my front ADD to clean it up like you did. Is it necessary to drain the front diff fluid before removing the ADD? Thanks for very helpful videos!
No, you can just remove the ADD. Gl
@@wetlifesports Wow, really tough to get the ADD out after unbolting it! The space is very tight. I managed to finally work it out past all of the stuff in the way but now I am wondering how I will get it back in without messing up the new gasket in the process. Any suggestions? I have unbolted a couple of what I think are trans cooler lines so I can move them but it will still be tough. What did you use for new gasket material? Thanks for your help!
BTW, my problem seems to be identical to yours. The motor runs strong but there was grease all over the contacts which I think were making for bad connections. Hopefully everything works when I get it back together!
Did it work for you @STEVE BOYER
@@kaohiahuna7662 I got everything back together and it worked but I learned a couple of valuable lessons. First, don't remove the whole ADD actuator if you don't have to, just remove the cover. If you remove the whole thing you will have to drain at least some of the diff fluid, plus it's really tough to get out due to the limited space. Second, make sure the big brown gear with the finger contacts stays in place. You will see it when you take the cover off. Take a picture of it in case it comes off so you can put it back in exactly the same position. You will also lose some diff fluid if it comes off. Basically, just remove the cover, clean up the old grease, test the motor per the part 2 video, put a light layer of dielectric grease on the contacts and put it back together. Let me know how it works out for you.
I have a 2002 tundra and had to remove and clean the water out of it.. I tested and motor runs and works BUT I cant not get it back togather so the lights quit flashing. Questions where does the shifter rod need to be when installing and where does the huge plastic gear go to get it all aligned
Please help I feel like banging it to my head... my phone I would gladly give for the help. Or $
Hi Alan, I had a 2002 as well, loved it! Are we talking about the front actuator? If so I believe I recall clockwise engaged it and counter dis-engaged it. But, I would cycle the system to make sure your actuators are on the same page. Meaning the rear actuator as well. I would turn off the 4X4 and make sure it dis-engages at least the rear, meaning you may have to drive it back and fourth in a straight line, slow and gentle. If you think you got the rear dis engaged, you can check to see if the drive shaft leaving the transfer case headed forward spins freely, then go underneath and see if you can gently turn the front gear and shaft counter clockwise to disengage the front wheels. Pay attention to your 4x4 indicator lights while doing this stuff. If this works put the gear back on in a way that will line up with the worm gear in the motor housing. Put it back together partly, meaning sung but easy enough to try again. Don't forget to plug the power lead in. If this doesn't work try the opposite, try to get it all engaged. Remember you need to drive the vehicle to get any of this to work, the system won't mate up unless the gears are moving. If this still does not work check the other systems. If the position switches on the transfer case are bad it won't get the correct signals. Call a garage and see if they have the computer to scan it and narrow it down for you. If they tell you something is bad you can focus on that part and clean it up or replace it. Make sure you have good lighting to see the small details of lining things up under there. Be careful. Good luck.
Was your ABS light on? Can this cause this Year make of Tundra to not use 4wd?
Help is very much appreciated.
No, and I don't think so.
Have you try taking out the actuator from the transfer case.. does your actuator come out with the shaft..I'm trying to fix mines but alot of videos I see the actuator dont have shaft but the stores have ones with shaft
if you want to replace the actuator you have to buy it with the shaft. if you want to replace the shaft as well you need to pull the transfer case
My rear actuator motor runs when the button is pushed, but the hose nipple is broken off and hose hanging disconnected.
My front one, the hose is fine, but it makes zero noise when 4hi button is pushed.😳
My 2006 tundra WILL go into 4 low, but only when I put truck in park, push 4hi button, and immediately shut truck off.
When I turn it back on, truck is in 4low.
Should I start by replacing rear sensors?
That's strange... I might try to get it scanned by someone to narrow it down. I think I understand your conclusion, maybe your right. I had not thought of how it works until you mention this. I think you enlightened me. I think there is a test for those switches online somewhere, maybe Google that test too. If that switch is not too expensive I might take a shot but a scan might help. Good luck, let us know what you learn. Thx
Mine doesnt engage till truck warms up when its below freezing.
Also It will flash will accelerating till i let off the gas and it goes in. Its slow for sure, compared to others ive driven. Anyone know why?
Just a little sticky, maybe just clean her out.
Plz a vidio of transfer case actuator timing of 4th generation 4runner 2700cc.
My 4runnner actuator has two rods to fit in.
It has two sets of gears and motors each one in a separate case with separate incioder.
Plz help
Sorry, can't help with that. I think you'll find it on UA-cam somewhere. Gl
do you know the part # on the vacuum hose? or what size/material it is? mine is totally shot, but i can't find it on any parts finders
Just cut a chunk off and bring it to one of the parts stores, they should have vac hose in stock.
My 2000 Toyota Tundra 4.7 4x4 is just flashing I need to fix it utah winter has been hard this year lots of snow
We're headed that way March 12 to ride dirt bikes. Moab. Too early?
Errr, mine just failed again this week. Just keeps flashing. I guess i can't blame her. Ian submerged the entire system. I'm shocked the truck still works at all. I tried the 4x4 a few time after the Hurricane and it worked. I guess the corrosion is catching up. She has a few other quirks as well. She tries to lock me out all the time now. I guess ill make more fix it videos if i can.
@@wetlifesports actually I’m going this coming Friday Saturday Sunday and Monday. Yes is cold and snowing this year. But March should be perfect
I’m still trying to decide if I should take my tundra has brand new tires off road but horrible on the snow ❄️ or my 2012 Honda accord v6 3.5 has new tires too . Moab is freaking gorgeous I go there a list 6 times a year. I live in Salt Lake City Utah so not that far from salt Lake is 229 miles away from salt Lake 4 hours away
Very helpful. Subscribed
Thank you!
I have a 05 limited sequoia when driving the hi and low lights start flashing it will shift in and out of 4hi and lo transfer case works also
So everything works fine? I can't tell what your saying without punctuation. Are you saying it does all of this on its own? It may be dirty or have too much grease or it may have a crack in the metal contact paths. Maybe just use it once per day for a week and see if it clears up.
Wet Life Sports yes everything works. While driving the lights will flash. Will check connctors thanks for your help.
Well now today the 4lo light is flashing every once it will stop. Will it hurt anything if I still drive it if it’s not in 4wd.
What role does vacuum play on the front differential freewheel clutch on a Pajero installed with a 4m40 engine? Precisely, how does that pajero's 4wd work?
Sorry, I'm no expert. As far as I know on my tundra vacuum was simply a way to keep moisture out.
Thanks for these videos... I have a somewhat similar issue. My 4WD/2WD system works perfectly!... However, I still get the flashing 4low (yellow) light blinking on the selector button and I get a similar light blinking in the dash. Again my system works perfectly.. just not sure why the the blinking lights. I have tired to disconnect the battery etc. Any ideas? Maybe a sensor?
Glad they helped. Not sure, try using it everyday for a few days for a few seconds. Might just be the sensors but I imagine something is making the sensor trigger. Could be excessive grease, a short in the contacts. Are you sure its fully engaging? Do the front wheels spin on mud and hook up? Go all the way into low too. good luck
Hi
Is these aquator need any programming after installation
No, they just need to be put back in the same way. I'll be posting a new video showing that soon. I just re-fixed mine as my truck got flooded in Ian and the front one failed again. A good cleaning fixed it.
I have a 03 sequoia I’m sitting high not low and every time I turn on the 4wd it works but then I hear this grinding noise from underneath the front driver side when it’s on 4wd and then when I shut it off it goes back to 2wd the grinding noise still there. When I take off on a light going slow you can hear the grinding noise when your cruising it’s gone only when your moving slow you can hear please help.
Hi, sorry so slow. It sounds like partial engagement of the front diff. I would go thru the steps of testing the front. Exercise it going slow forward and reverse. Try low too. Listen for your actuator motors to see if they are running, you can do this with motor off and help from a friend. If exercise does not make a difference, pull the front actuator and clean it up inside, checking the things I point out in the 3 videos. Good luck.
I have a toyota 4runner 2001 3.4 which i guess is the same ....the transfer case actuator isn't working how it should work...i had the cover and the plastic gear pulled out and someone told me that the plastic gear can only set on one spot....do you know exactly witch spot should it be placed?
I guess it should have some sort of timing
Hard to say from here. I recall that there was only one way it would fit.
@@wetlifesports Ok...it has a rod when you remove the complete actuator....the rod should be all the way out or all the way in?
Get it all in either the engaged position or Dis engaged. I think clockwise engages the 4x4, so counter clockwise Dis engages. Make sure the button has cycled off, the shaft is turned counter clockwise, the whole system is dis enguaged, then put it together as far as needed to test. GL
Are you sure it was the transfer case actuator? Did you test to see what was running and what wasn't? Just from sound, vibration? I think it can be done motor off, in neutral, BUT blocked good and on flat surface for safety!!
Duuude thank you so much!
Glad it helped
My light is blinking on my 07 I cannot figure out what is causing it. I can put it in 4x4 then in it will go in and I can take it out but other than that it will not do anything if I crank truck up then try to put it in 4x4. Who did you get to scan it?
Can't tell if your saying it works but light blinks or if it's dosent work at all. I got my local garage to scan it. Just call a few until you find one that has a computer good enough to narrow it down for you. GL
Depending on its history, weather it's used alot or in deep water or barely used. Most are barely used and just regular exercise gets them going again.
Do you have a video taking the 3 bolts off and the plastic cover off ?
No but it's straight forward, you want good tools. I bought a good JIS screw driver set, "Japanese Industry Standard" they make a big diff. They have the grip tips and one of them has that stuck screw design meaning you can hit it with a hammer and its designed to turn slightly upon impact to crack it loose. But I think you may need to use socket sets with Phillips tips, use good tips, and and extension and a swivel adapter. BUT, start off with a good shot of wd40, a few times. Good luck
@@wetlifesports i took the plastic cover off and pulled out the plastic gear assembly it was super easy i did not need to take that top cover off and pull the small gear out.
Did that fix it?
@@wetlifesports it ended up being the front diff actuator. but i was able to temove the whole t case assembly this way pretty easily to inspect it
If you open it, please tell me if there is timing
my 03 tundra has been blinking 4hi for the longest time and I cannot figure it out. It also doesn't go into 4 wheel
Just follow the pointers in the 3 videos and read some of the comments, first check to see if your front and back actuator motors are running, go from there.
Did you have to take the motor apart? Id like to avoid that as I dont have access to tiny hands.
Most likely not necessary, just clean up the grease on the contacts inside the switch. Did you bench test the motor like one of my videos shows?
@@wetlifesports still working on getting it out. It looks as though someone may have been here before me.
what was your end result to get the front actuator to work normally?
Just took it apart and cleaned out some grease and it has worked fine since
Mine works fine and it’s rusty as Duck guess I’m lucky
anyone here know the size of the O-ring/gasket that goes in between the plastic side and the metal side?
Not sure, Google parts diagram for that or just take the old one with you to the auto parts store or an Ace. Gl
hey buddy, this is the problem i having on my 2006 tundra. Brought to Toyota for diagnostic and they found tbe actuator was bad. dealer wanted 3200$ plus taxes. can't afford their price. asked and they gave me the parf#. I bought a brand new oem part and do a short cut when installed. I installed the new actuator onto my old shaft. after connecting all the wire connectors, start the truck and right away the 4L light flashing. it's flashes before I even turns to 4wd. WHAT'S GOING ON AND WHY?. I did an experiment by swapping out my friends' to my truck and it works fine. let me know 9you think.
thanks
Hi, I found despite the computer diagnosis from my mechanic that my front actuator was still good, my 4x4 is now working again and continues to. Did you watch all 3 videos. Both the front and back actuator are virtually identical so I imagine the issues are much the same. You might be able to coax your system, even the old actuator into working by cycling it manually or semi manually. Do the testing I point to, listen to see if motors are running see if the transfer shaft engages, pull the motors and hot wire, make sure you don't have excessive grease in there. Turn the shaft manually and see if you get 4x4. To enguage try reverse, turning a bit, etc. Good luck
Plug in a scan tool and clear the code.
Hose is just a vent/way to complicated/old style stick was much better
Are you the guy in nc
No but i lived there in the past. Did you get it fixed?
I need help
Fix it?
Why every body says toyota never fail??? Fuck any brand fail
Hi, Yes, your right, I was wishful thinking out loud, misspoke. In my case Never means 99% of the time. At 60K this current Tundra lost the rear differential, I was very surprised as my previous tundra never had any transmission issues. So when I was done with that repair, and some front brakes.. I think I was close to 4500!! Ouch!! I lost a bit of faith temporarily but knock on wood I have not been left on the road side ever, dangerous statement... With the noisy Diff, I drove thousands of miles with just an odd drone. My local mechanic was thinking tires, another one said front diff, another one said wheel bearings.. I literally got 4 different opinions then finally put that info together with the knowledge that there was metal particles in the rear Diff oil. She is good now and better be for life!! at least as far as diffs go... :0 Still, I get total pleasure driving it everyday, so smooth, so quiet and personally the seats make my back better! I looked and looked and personally didn't find anything I liked better new or used. Good size for me and we all know its just personal preference. Since owning 4 runners, highlanders, LX470 and tundras since 1997, I have had the best of luck. I do think they have gone downhill a bit, got a bit more plastic, tinny, etc. I got a new Tundra loaner when they were doing my diff and holy cow powerful but did not like the fit and finish on the inside. Granted, it was not the limited with leather at 50K plus.. For the most part all we ever do is change the oil and very rarely does anything major happen and what is nice is that the little stuff never fails. I have never had a power window fail, door locks, etc. etc. So they don't annoy you with little stuff and I love the ergonomics. To me 99% of everything is in the right place. I like simple stuff that works, if it works keep the design the same. Maybe I am ""getting old" I can't stand the new cars with the touch screen stuff everywhere in that it takes you 20 minutes to figure out how to tune the radio and dim the dash lights. You have to pull over to adjust anything because it requires you to stare at the screen and not watch the road. We have a newer Honda Odyssey and to me it is horribly designed in terms of controls, I was not smart enough to see it upon purchase and its hard to avoid. I like the handling, motor, transmission and the body, doors, etc. but the controls and dash are horrible IMO. Seats not great to me either. Wife likes it so were good. Well, I got carried away, design is one of my favorite subjects. Take care.
That pushbutton plastic transfer case is some bullshit ,nothing like the actual transfer case shifter inside of the cab of the truck on the floor....
Workinman Workinman apparently snowflake engineers cant handle a real shifting knob
Updated video for a Second fix after total salt water submersion. ua-cam.com/video/vbI8nMic8xI/v-deo.html
$1465.10 to repair
Ouch! It happens. Bummer.