I learned the hard way that you should move your thumb on the spindle when you lift up the platter (on Technics anyway). I didn’t do that and eventually I knocked the cog off so that the auto return didn’t work anymore. As long as you don’t crack the cog then you can probably glue it back in place. But it’s the way easier to just put your thumb on the spindle every time. 🙂 I bet somebody else makes forget that I don’t have time to read all of the comments. 🙂 I was trying to yell at you through the screen at you about the selector switch to turn it on. I wanted to tell you that mine, until cleaned, was just finicky and would not turn on even when it was in the on position. That’s the first thing I would do for these turntables if they don’t turn on… clean the selector switch contacts.
Thanks for the very professional video! I have the same model but it has now an issue related to the on/off power mechanism: The problem is that the turntable never turns off. It is always on even when the arm is in the rest position. The only way to turn it off is unplugging the cable from the wall. Could you please give me any tip to solve this problem? Mine has automatic return to rest position. Thanks a lot.
27:23 LOL Well, we are all making mistakes. I found this video because I thought something was wrong with my motor. Nope! I have always had a direct drive, okay. Got this heirloom and guess what? Gotta connect the belt to the motor for it to work silly! Welp, at least you saved me $75 USD on a diagnostic. LOL, I feel like a real dumbass. Thanks, good man! You have your like and sub.
Thank you, I really appreciate this video. I just got one of these second hand and am working to restore it as a project & first proper TT. I need a new belt and am seeing very conflicting information online for what the correct belt size is for the SL-23. I have seen some forums and websites both claim that it actually came in 2 different versions with 22.4 and 23.2 sizes. I also found another restoration video on YT here that recommended a FBM 23.6 size for the belt. Could you please confirm what belt size you typically put on the SL-23? And if there really is 2 variations out there, how to tell which size you need for your model? I would love you forever for this information, lol. If it helps, my model is the standard silver SL-23 and the platter has a number of SFTE023L01 on the bottom side with a number "2" stamped into the black of the top side. I am going to check out your other SL-23 model video now.
While I’m sure there is a spec for the belt, I do not know what that might be. I buy belts from a few vendors and use the pots to adjust for the belt size. IMHO as long as you are somewhere close to the spec size you’re okay. I know this always doesn’t sit well with folks that want to be sure they get the exact belt the table calls for. Sometimes I just grab a belt from my stash and see if it works :)
I bought one of these at a thrift store and at first, the motor did nothing. After cleaning both sets of speed controls and lubricating the spindle and motor, it will work but, only if I spin the platter by hand to get it going and the speed is still not right. Any thoughts on what I should do next? The table and dust cover are in really good condition so I hate to see it collecting dust. I enjoy your videos. Thanks
1) you can't clean the controls too much and 2) the belt condition (and proper sizing) is everything. If the belt is too loose it may require you to add some momentum to get things going. I'd check the belt first (probably just get a replacement because they're inexpensive), then clean the controls again :) Almost forgot - there's also a speed control integrated circuit that sometimes gets goofy on these that may need to be replaced.
@@millervintagehifi3034 belt is new. Not 100% sure if it's the exact size needed but, it's a snug fit. I pull this TT out of the closet every month or so in hopes of getting it going. I noticed last night that the shaft coming out of the motor feels really tight and when I get it spinning, the main speed controls do very little if anything at all the speed . Hopefully I'll get to enjoy this TT one day
My SL-23 is in excellent working condition except for one aspect, the ant-skate mechanism. I have to turn it all the way to 4 to even get close to getting the effect needed for a 2g VTF. Have you ever found a way to calibrate/adjust it?
Unfortunately I have not had to do this, but I would 1) ensure the table is level, 2) make sure there isn’t the possibility of some weird antiskate dial misalignment. Looking at the manual, it appears its a spring-loaded anti-skate, so there is the chance that there’s some funky issue with the tension on the spring.
@@millervintagehifi3034 Yep, I've experienced this issue on several vintage Technics tables. I've always assumed it's a delicate spring that doesn't age well.
That 33 off 45 switch can really mess up the speed, it's not sealed. People use the off and 33 position the most and the 45 position gets really dirty from lack of use.
So started my audio journey. The first table I ever purchased back in 76 I think from Playback Audio for $150.00. You will never get that POS to run accurately. Like all Tables with a DC motor and servo. It's just not possible. They're was a saying about these turntables; "they go right by going wrong". DC motors are constantly speeding up and require some sort of servo device, quartz oscillator, or something to slow it down to the correct speed, speeding up then slowing down. Again, and again, etc. I grew up in a house with musicians and we had a small grand piano in the house. You quickly understand the problem when playing performances on a piano that has long, sustained notes, and the SL23 wowed and wavered. Once you hear it, then you realize just how off pitch it is. Replaced it, same issue, even with the store's floor model. It simply is a design flaw. I'm amazed at how many people really can't listen well who owns this crapola and think it's good.
I learned the hard way that you should move your thumb on the spindle when you lift up the platter (on Technics anyway). I didn’t do that and eventually I knocked the cog off so that the auto return didn’t work anymore. As long as you don’t crack the cog then you can probably glue it back in place. But it’s the way easier to just put your thumb on the spindle every time. 🙂
I bet somebody else makes forget that I don’t have time to read all of the comments. 🙂
I was trying to yell at you through the screen at you about the selector switch to turn it on. I wanted to tell you that mine, until cleaned, was just finicky and would not turn on even when it was in the on position. That’s the first thing I would do for these turntables if they don’t turn on… clean the selector switch contacts.
I go through so many different turntables that I forget how some of them work :)
Maintenance done!
Thank you very much for sharing.
Nice to hear!
thumbs up for the honest mistake we all make
I specialize in honest mistakes :)
Thanks for the very professional video! I have the same model but it has now an issue related to the on/off power mechanism: The problem is that the turntable never turns off. It is always on even when the arm is in the rest position. The only way to turn it off is unplugging the cable from the wall. Could you please give me any tip to solve this problem? Mine has automatic return to rest position. Thanks a lot.
I don't have one of these in the shop currently, but is there a microswitch that is stuck (or dirty) underneath?
Great! I will check it. Tks
27:23 LOL Well, we are all making mistakes. I found this video because I thought something was wrong with my motor. Nope! I have always had a direct drive, okay. Got this heirloom and guess what? Gotta connect the belt to the motor for it to work silly! Welp, at least you saved me $75 USD on a diagnostic. LOL, I feel like a real dumbass. Thanks, good man! You have your like and sub.
Thanks and I'm glad the video was helpful!
Thank you, I really appreciate this video. I just got one of these second hand and am working to restore it as a project & first proper TT. I need a new belt and am seeing very conflicting information online for what the correct belt size is for the SL-23. I have seen some forums and websites both claim that it actually came in 2 different versions with 22.4 and 23.2 sizes. I also found another restoration video on YT here that recommended a FBM 23.6 size for the belt.
Could you please confirm what belt size you typically put on the SL-23? And if there really is 2 variations out there, how to tell which size you need for your model? I would love you forever for this information, lol. If it helps, my model is the standard silver SL-23 and the platter has a number of SFTE023L01 on the bottom side with a number "2" stamped into the black of the top side. I am going to check out your other SL-23 model video now.
While I’m sure there is a spec for the belt, I do not know what that might be. I buy belts from a few vendors and use the pots to adjust for the belt size. IMHO as long as you are somewhere close to the spec size you’re okay. I know this always doesn’t sit well with folks that want to be sure they get the exact belt the table calls for. Sometimes I just grab a belt from my stash and see if it works :)
I bought one of these at a thrift store and at first, the motor did nothing. After cleaning both sets of speed controls and lubricating the spindle and motor, it will work but, only if I spin the platter by hand to get it going and the speed is still not right. Any thoughts on what I should do next? The table and dust cover are in really good condition so I hate to see it collecting dust. I enjoy your videos. Thanks
1) you can't clean the controls too much and 2) the belt condition (and proper sizing) is everything. If the belt is too loose it may require you to add some momentum to get things going. I'd check the belt first (probably just get a replacement because they're inexpensive), then clean the controls again :) Almost forgot - there's also a speed control integrated circuit that sometimes gets goofy on these that may need to be replaced.
@@millervintagehifi3034 belt is new. Not 100% sure if it's the exact size needed but, it's a snug fit. I pull this TT out of the closet every month or so in hopes of getting it going. I noticed last night that the shaft coming out of the motor feels really tight and when I get it spinning, the main speed controls do very little if anything at all the speed . Hopefully I'll get to enjoy this TT one day
Hopefully you get it running.
My SL-23 is in excellent working condition except for one aspect, the ant-skate mechanism. I have to turn it all the way to 4 to even get close to getting the effect needed for a 2g VTF. Have you ever found a way to calibrate/adjust it?
Unfortunately I have not had to do this, but I would 1) ensure the table is level, 2) make sure there isn’t the possibility of some weird antiskate dial misalignment. Looking at the manual, it appears its a spring-loaded anti-skate, so there is the chance that there’s some funky issue with the tension on the spring.
@@millervintagehifi3034 Yep, I've experienced this issue on several vintage Technics tables. I've always assumed it's a delicate spring that doesn't age well.
That 33 off 45 switch can really mess up the speed, it's not sealed. People use the off and 33 position the most and the 45 position gets really dirty from lack of use.
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the video. What oil did you use at 23:41 to lubricate the motor?
I use 3-in-One oil.
ของผมนี่ปรับไปตำแหน่งรอบ33โดยยังไม่ยกอาร์มเข้าไปจานก็หมุนแล้ว พอยกเข้าไปก็ออโต้กลับแล้ว แต่จานก็ยังไม่หยุดหมุนต้องตรวจสอบตรงไหน ขอบคุณครับ
I would recommend finding a tech or starting a thread on Vinylengine or Audiokarma.
What’s wrong with wd40 ? Too greasy?
Depends on the use. It will destroy electronic components.
It's a good thing that you can laugh at yourself....
Yeah...I find myself doing that quite often :)
On the downside is the screw to unlock the Spindel.....it hurts to see you pulling so hard on it....
Thanks for the tip!
Best place to find a stylus and belt for this model??
I use lpgear when in doubt.
Really? $100-$125 bit cheap! for a SL-23
Haha - those are Omaha prices at the shop :)
So started my audio journey. The first table I ever purchased back in 76 I think from Playback Audio for $150.00. You will never get that POS to run accurately. Like all Tables with a DC motor and servo. It's just not possible. They're was a saying about these turntables; "they go right by going wrong". DC motors are constantly speeding up and require some sort of servo device, quartz oscillator, or something to slow it down to the correct speed, speeding up then slowing down. Again, and again, etc. I grew up in a house with musicians and we had a small grand piano in the house. You quickly understand the problem when playing performances on a piano that has long, sustained notes, and the SL23 wowed and wavered. Once you hear it, then you realize just how off pitch it is. Replaced it, same issue, even with the store's floor model. It simply is a design flaw. I'm amazed at how many people really can't listen well who owns this crapola and think it's good.
Yup - precision on these lower end tables is not likely to be obtainable.