How to Replace the front shock absorbers on the Dodge Challenger 2008-2018
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Do you need to Replace the front shock absorbers on your Dodge Challenger 2008 - 2018 but don't know where to start? This video tutorial shows you step-by-step how to do it!
Our Dodge Challenger 2008 - 2018 manual covers petrol and diesel engines, and includes videos for some of the most common jobs, which you can see here in this playlist. Get the full manual haynes.com/en-...
What's covered:
Chrysler 300, 2005-2018
Dodge Charger, 2006-2018
Dodge Magnum, 2005-2008
Dodge Challenger, 2008-2018
Exclusions:
Does not include information specific to diesel engine, all-wheel drive models or Hellcat/Demon models.
Do not place your jackstands under the vehicle as shown. It WILL permanently damage the rocker trim, it will likely cause fender damage and will also be less secure than the proper placement under the subframe. Just my $.02
I don’t even know why those cutouts are there, that is a pretty soft spot. I agree catch the subframe!
I found the sequence and description plus torque values very useful. I had to transfer the coil springs as well, since the new shocks came without them. All in all this was a useful tutorial and I appreciate it being made available.
Thank you for the video.
Is that bottom plastic part where jack stands were touching all messed up now?
There is a notch on the lower front rocker seam for the jack stand saddles to rest into
Thanks 👍
HI GUY AT ONE POINT YOU SAY STEP 1 TIGHTEN TO 35 FT LBS THEN STEP 2 2014 AND EARLIER AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREASE. IS DEGREASE SAME AS FT LBS ???
No, degrees is referring to angle, so basically you do a quarter rotation more
You must mean degrees. 90 degrees more would be a quarter turn to tighten after 35 ft lbs was reached. Using a sharpie to create a reference mark on the upper control arm to establish a start point and end point will accomplish how much farther visually to tighten the nut
On the manual published by Haynes - item 25027 - the step of disconnecting the steering knuckle from the upper contol arm is conveniently left out. When step 5 came up to pull down the lower control arm in order to clear the bottom strut bracket my question was 'how'?
Which brand/model of shock is used in the video? What are your recomendations?
APPARENTLY you are working with Completely blown struts..
There's NO FREAKING way the strut assembly just falls out..
Spent 2 hours prying jacking and beating the upper control arm out and There's NO Freaking way the assembly is going to just fall out... Need to remove the lower control arm 😡😡😡😡
Mine came out just as theirs did. I actually purchased the same ball joint tool from Auto Zone to separate the upper control arm. It made it very easy and controlled compared to using a pickle fork. Removing the lower control is completely unnecessary, using a floor jack under the lower control arm helped alot
Two things that helped was stepping back and looking at this to give more wiggle room. That was remove the 10mm screw from the backside of the steering knuckle arm that retains the brake line which allows more movement for the lower steering arm to drop farther down and take off any strain from the brake hose. Also using the steering wheel to turn the whole assembly and give more working room
Auto mechanic here, this guy doesn't know what he's doing. There's too many mistakes he made in this video and he would have been fired if he worked in a professional mechanic shop. Very unsafe way to do things.
Well one thing I noticed was they could have titled this for reference only and use it as a basic guide. Normally with most automotive maintenance the battery should be disconnected before starting. It's known as "Safe for Maintenance" in the Military Aircraft world and Aerospace in general.