One tip I've learned (from Yvan Lacroix and Pan) is to clay and do the iron removal in one step at the end of your wash. Iron removers don't fully remove iron on their own when they are just sprayed on the surface. It's really only working at the edges to loosen it and remove the iron oxide staining from the paint. The mechanical action of the claying process is what really removes the specks of iron out of the paint. Put the clay scrubber in your soap bucket, use one spray of iron remover on the panel and one on the clay scrubber. The iron remover (along with the soapy water) provides plenty of lubrication. Work that section/panel until it feels smooth and then go back to the bucket. This greatly reduces the smell and the amount of iron remover used. It also saves time because you only have to rinse once. I recently verified this method side by side on a white hood that had a lot of iron contamination. One side was done with this method, the other side was soaked in iron remover like you do and allowed to dwell with some hand agitation like you have done in the past. After that I rinsed off, inspected and found that the rust staining was gone from both sides. Then I heavily sprayed the entire panel again with iron remover. The side that was clayed with the minimal amount of iron remover as lube was completely free of iron, but the traditional spray/dwell/rinse side still had a lot of iron left over. Give it a try sometime and see what you think. The time savings are nice, but the best thing is the big reduction in smell.
@@ccollins_24I recently did it with Iron Buster and Absolute rinseless at 128:1, worked great and plenty of lube. DIY Detail Iron Remover or Optimum Ferrex are other good options.
@@ccollins_24 I've done this method with Iron Buster and Optimum Ferrex. DIY Detail Iron Remover is another good option. Lots of others would probably work, but may not have as much lubrication. Just be careful because there are some decon products out there that also have solvents to soften tar deposits. That will kill the synthetic clay towels/scrubbers.
Friend had one, did suspension, exhaust and his holy grail mod was the carbon intake as well as cams but that was so long ago. After all that it still wasn't fast but man did it sound incredible
Definitely upgrade to an e36 M3 or the z3 96 and up steering rack. I believe the z3 rack has the best turn ratio around 2.7 to full lock. Supersprint exhaust sounds good on these cars but its pricey no doubt. Are wheels an option or are they staying stock? Don't waste your time trying to make it faster. The s14 is insanely expensive and you'd be better off swapping a S5x into it. Some style 5 wheels with a nice small lip on them would look great on the car but idk how far you are willing to go with mods. I am an E30 fanatic and have one of my own so this is exciting to see. The carbon intake and cams would add a glorious sound but costs a fortune for not too much gain. I personally love the stock door handles that have the engraved "BMW Motorsport" in them which adds a nice touch. Thanks for the great content!
Hey Matt, can you do a wash one day for those of us that live in the desert? I always notice how you can put soap on a car and work methodically. Not happening in the desert where the soap will dry without hustling. That Florida humidity is good for this.
You really need to consider and trial Sandro's (CCAD) process for Decon. NV Purify undiluted over car while it is dry ( solo sprayer would work well for dispensing). Its a fallout (iron remover) along with traffic film remover. Let it dwell for 5-10 mins, then foam over NV Purify with an Alkaline soap (OG Soap) on top and let dwell for an additional 5-10mins. Do a thorough rinse. Then either foam or hand wash with Carpro Descale acidic wash (attacks mineral deposits and water spots). It maximizes dwell times and it attacks it from multiple aspects. Then assess paint and determine if a mechanical decon (claying) would be necessary for the vehicle. I would look at his process directly or speak to him for a more thorough explanation. However, it seems like a well thought out and thorough process. Just a friendly suggestions. Appreciate your videos Matt. Always a good source of entertainment and education. Cheers
I used to work at BMW specialist, my boss bought a B3 Aplina in white 1988. He paid £16,0000 he said I could buy it at one stage. All original and well maintained obviously. I could only imagine how much that's worth now. The insurance was ultra expensive which put me off and E30 M3s weren't that desirable then. I ended up buying a 325i E46 M Sport instead. If I could go back in time to have a very serious chat with myself 😂
Have you tried/considered trying the Armour shampoo? I've found it to be just as good as GSF with less product input(100ml in the cannon and 50ml in the bucket) and it makes a ridiculous amount of foam. Love the channel, love the store, love the OG mission!
Get MY 99+ E36 front control arms to center the wheels, lowering springs or coilovers, and a faster steering rack (surprised you said the rack was good. It's horribly slow!). Carbon airbox would be great but when you delete the MAF, you'll need a standalone and that's a big step and potential big headache. Exhaust are always subjective, but I haven't heard one that sounds great; hard to make a 4 banger sound incredible.
Matt have you ever considered asking Griots if they would manufacture an OG branded version of their foam cannon for the OG store? Would look so much better
What temperature water are you running thru the foam cannon, as well as water in the buckets ? My thought is, the warmer the water, everything expands and helps loosen the contaminants ? Is the water as hot as you can physically stand it? Or is there a cut off ?
Great Pelagos Matt. I’m not OG spec yet but got my first luxury watch a few weeks ago, the Black Bay 54. Please let us know how the Rolex waitlist game goes.
Another satisfying video! "Decon & Talk." Will you be selling the stainless pressol tips so we can just upgrade our current bottles or will we have to buy it with the bottle? Thanks!
The E30 M3 is the one flatform i wasn't bummed out, on not getting one, just for personal preference i guess coz i like drive all of em not buy em to park, The e30 M3 moves but a little under powered for my liking other than that its a good car to have. I had a 325xi that i planned to build but i my schedule got hectic and didnt have time. That would have been a good platform as its all wheel drive.
Hey Matt, hoping you could give me a recommendation for a process to keep my GR Corolla clean. I'm running in to an issue that the stock brake pads produce a boatload of brake dust and the factory paint is super soft. This leads to a high level of oxidation contaminent in the car. Touch washes are generally a bad idea with this vehicle as the factory clearcoat gets scratched by a brand new high quality microfiber. Some form of soap/foam and a super effective iron remover and touchless high pressure wash seems to generally be the best method that I have found. Are there any products that come to mind to you that assist in lifting the Iron, dirt, and grime off without having to touch the car?
Remember fellas. If something fails in the engine bay when you wash it, be glad it didnt happen when you were driving in the rain, because as Matt said, unless you get water into intake, nothing else can go bad, and if it goes bad be happy, it happened somewhere you washed your engine, so you dont need a tow :)
On mods ... I had a track-prepped daily E30M3 in the late 1990s. I did the oil pan baffle (critical), buttress welded rear toe links (I understood they tear out), SS brake lines, vented backing plates, drilled rotors, Group N engine/transmission mounts (tightens everything up), short shift kit. I think it was Red Line MTL that was recommended and used for transmission fluid, which smoothed out the notchy shifting, actually made a difference. I used Korman street/track suspension kit, which was solid. On engine, I had it chipped, which you could feel. On intake and headers, there are some beautiful parts to buy out there ... none of which I did. They're pricey, with many options/combinations ... with lots of claims on gains. I could never get comfortable which combination would be great and would really work. So, I heat-wrapped my stock headers and left it at that. Behind the header, did a track-only straight through DTM-tip exhaust that sounded awesome. Test pipe, no cats. I had 245/35 17s on all four corners. Everyone will tell you they won't fit, but they fit perfectly on mine once the rear fenders were rolled. This is with the Korman suspension, which was 1-1.5" lower. Not sure the offset, unfortunately. First had TSW wheels, then Revolutions ... which looked great in matching black pearl with machined lips. Later, blew the engine at Sears Point in a glorious plume of $moke. Went for the Turner 2.5 kit, which made a big difference, obviously. Rebuild was something like $12-15k in 1999 or so. Ouch. You'll note the 2.3 vs. 2.5 difference when driving your Sport Evo. Despite your comments at the beginning of the video ... for the record, I *LOVED* this car. Prepped as described, it was like driving an exposed nerve ...
... forgot to mention aluminum control arms, though maybe that was part of the Korman package. I can't recall ... we're talking 25 years ago and I'm getting old.
I know this is only the decon video and this question would be more relevant on the coating video, but do you ever find yourself missing the power lock collinite combo? I still haven't moved to coatings because from what I've heard they don't have the same look and feel. Am I making a mistake being stuck in the wax age?
is there any product that you’ve used from the very beginning ? something you’ve never switched out on your arsenal, never found anything better ? for instance a compound or a glass cleaner ext.
Are yall planning on reviewing the Active 2.3? I'm surprised you havent gotten one yet to review since yall have worked so closely with Active on the 2.0.
If you watched the 13:00 mark of the video, you would see that he has a 2.3 sitting on the ground under his Kranzle. He even makes comment that he will be testing it sometime soon.
I'm always amazed when someone is too lazy to search for information. I'm a fan of e30 in general, so m3 is one of my dream cars, but Honda's B generation of engine had 1.6 4cyl with 180hp n/a, and also 1.8 with 200 hp n/a, later on F20 a 2.0 liter with 240, common knowledge for any car guy.
@79blustone the BMW 4 cyl n/a engine that was designed in 1985 made the same horsepower that 4 cyl n/a engines inside sports cars would make for the next 35 years. Including Honda which came out with a 200hp 4 cyl engine about 10 FUCKING YEARS after BMW and kept selling all the way into the modern age.
I've done this hundreds of times. A pressure washer at distance isn't going to hurt anything. In fact, it uses much less water than a regular garden hose.
One tip I've learned (from Yvan Lacroix and Pan) is to clay and do the iron removal in one step at the end of your wash. Iron removers don't fully remove iron on their own when they are just sprayed on the surface. It's really only working at the edges to loosen it and remove the iron oxide staining from the paint. The mechanical action of the claying process is what really removes the specks of iron out of the paint.
Put the clay scrubber in your soap bucket, use one spray of iron remover on the panel and one on the clay scrubber. The iron remover (along with the soapy water) provides plenty of lubrication. Work that section/panel until it feels smooth and then go back to the bucket. This greatly reduces the smell and the amount of iron remover used. It also saves time because you only have to rinse once.
I recently verified this method side by side on a white hood that had a lot of iron contamination. One side was done with this method, the other side was soaked in iron remover like you do and allowed to dwell with some hand agitation like you have done in the past. After that I rinsed off, inspected and found that the rust staining was gone from both sides. Then I heavily sprayed the entire panel again with iron remover. The side that was clayed with the minimal amount of iron remover as lube was completely free of iron, but the traditional spray/dwell/rinse side still had a lot of iron left over.
Give it a try sometime and see what you think. The time savings are nice, but the best thing is the big reduction in smell.
Thanks for sharing. Very economical solution to consider. What Iron decon are you using? I’ve heard not all Iron removers are good lubricants.
@@ccollins_24I recently did it with Iron Buster and Absolute rinseless at 128:1, worked great and plenty of lube. DIY Detail Iron Remover or Optimum Ferrex are other good options.
@@ccollins_24 I've done this method with Iron Buster and Optimum Ferrex. DIY Detail Iron Remover is another good option.
Lots of others would probably work, but may not have as much lubrication. Just be careful because there are some decon products out there that also have solvents to soften tar deposits. That will kill the synthetic clay towels/scrubbers.
@@jeffc6832 Thanks for the detailed response.
Your videos are my therapy. You live a blessed life.
Man what an awesome M3. I was never into these either but it looks so good. I love the boxiness and the way the hood opens. Such a unique car!
Friend had one, did suspension, exhaust and his holy grail mod was the carbon intake as well as cams but that was so long ago. After all that it still wasn't fast but man did it sound incredible
Beautiful car, going to be fun watching you manage paint residue when polishing single stage paint.
Such a good car washer.
Definitely upgrade to an e36 M3 or the z3 96 and up steering rack. I believe the z3 rack has the best turn ratio around 2.7 to full lock. Supersprint exhaust sounds good on these cars but its pricey no doubt. Are wheels an option or are they staying stock? Don't waste your time trying to make it faster. The s14 is insanely expensive and you'd be better off swapping a S5x into it. Some style 5 wheels with a nice small lip on them would look great on the car but idk how far you are willing to go with mods. I am an E30 fanatic and have one of my own so this is exciting to see. The carbon intake and cams would add a glorious sound but costs a fortune for not too much gain. I personally love the stock door handles that have the engraved "BMW Motorsport" in them which adds a nice touch. Thanks for the great content!
Hey Matt, can you do a wash one day for those of us that live in the desert? I always notice how you can put soap on a car and work methodically. Not happening in the desert where the soap will dry without hustling. That Florida humidity is good for this.
Use a ph neutral soap...like adams....and it won't matter. Any residue will rinse off....given you have an OG type setup.
This content plays in the background at work 💪🔥
Everyone in Brighton Mariner knows who Matt is 😂
“I need another car like I need a hole in the head” 😂 i felt that one.
Love love love the outside washes!! Sick car!
I see that the shed has already been moved, in anticipation of its permanent move down the street.
You really need to consider and trial Sandro's (CCAD) process for Decon. NV Purify undiluted over car while it is dry ( solo sprayer would work well for dispensing). Its a fallout (iron remover) along with traffic film remover. Let it dwell for 5-10 mins, then foam over NV Purify with an Alkaline soap (OG Soap) on top and let dwell for an additional 5-10mins. Do a thorough rinse. Then either foam or hand wash with Carpro Descale acidic wash (attacks mineral deposits and water spots). It maximizes dwell times and it attacks it from multiple aspects. Then assess paint and determine if a mechanical decon (claying) would be necessary for the vehicle.
I would look at his process directly or speak to him for a more thorough explanation. However, it seems like a well thought out and thorough process. Just a friendly suggestions. Appreciate your videos Matt. Always a good source of entertainment and education. Cheers
D-limonene (the main ingredient in most citrus soaps/cleaners) is actually alkaline.
Hey Matt! Make sure you take 12k miles EURO M3 for a spin. It's totally different car to the US version. Engine make it so much better!
I used to work at BMW specialist, my boss bought a B3 Aplina in white 1988. He paid £16,0000 he said I could buy it at one stage. All original and well maintained obviously. I could only imagine how much that's worth now. The insurance was ultra expensive which put me off and E30 M3s weren't that desirable then. I ended up buying a 325i E46 M Sport instead. If I could go back in time to have a very serious chat with myself 😂
Datsun 510 and 240 is what I wanted. But ended up with a 67 bug that I drove every day and ran 13.52 1/4mile on the weekends.
Tudor Pelagos FXD, is the watch bug biting?
Have you tried/considered trying the Armour shampoo? I've found it to be just as good as GSF with less product input(100ml in the cannon and 50ml in the bucket) and it makes a ridiculous amount of foam. Love the channel, love the store, love the OG mission!
Karmine red is very cool. Just got a 2024 992 Turbo S in Karmine red.
Get MY 99+ E36 front control arms to center the wheels, lowering springs or coilovers, and a faster steering rack (surprised you said the rack was good. It's horribly slow!). Carbon airbox would be great but when you delete the MAF, you'll need a standalone and that's a big step and potential big headache. Exhaust are always subjective, but I haven't heard one that sounds great; hard to make a 4 banger sound incredible.
Matt have you ever considered asking Griots if they would manufacture an OG branded version of their foam cannon for the OG store? Would look so much better
Someday I'd like to do that. I'm going to visit with Nick and Richard soon.
What temperature water are you running thru the foam cannon, as well as water in the buckets ?
My thought is, the warmer the water, everything expands and helps loosen the contaminants ? Is the water as hot as you can physically stand it? Or is there a cut off ?
Great Pelagos Matt. I’m not OG spec yet but got my first luxury watch a few weeks ago, the Black Bay 54. Please let us know how the Rolex waitlist game goes.
Another satisfying video! "Decon & Talk." Will you be selling the stainless pressol tips so we can just upgrade our current bottles or will we have to buy it with the bottle? Thanks!
Yep
"Who the heck wants a stock M3? I sure as heck don't". LOL.
The E30 M3 is the one flatform i wasn't bummed out, on not getting one, just for personal preference i guess coz i like drive all of em not buy em to park, The e30 M3 moves but a little under powered for my liking other than that its a good car to have. I had a 325xi that i planned to build but i my schedule got hectic and didnt have time. That would have been a good platform as its all wheel drive.
Hey Matt, hoping you could give me a recommendation for a process to keep my GR Corolla clean. I'm running in to an issue that the stock brake pads produce a boatload of brake dust and the factory paint is super soft. This leads to a high level of oxidation contaminent in the car. Touch washes are generally a bad idea with this vehicle as the factory clearcoat gets scratched by a brand new high quality microfiber. Some form of soap/foam and a super effective iron remover and touchless high pressure wash seems to generally be the best method that I have found. Are there any products that come to mind to you that assist in lifting the Iron, dirt, and grime off without having to touch the car?
Remember fellas. If something fails in the engine bay when you wash it, be glad it didnt happen when you were driving in the rain, because as Matt said, unless you get water into intake, nothing else can go bad, and if it goes bad be happy, it happened somewhere you washed your engine, so you dont need a tow :)
On mods ... I had a track-prepped daily E30M3 in the late 1990s. I did the oil pan baffle (critical), buttress welded rear toe links (I understood they tear out), SS brake lines, vented backing plates, drilled rotors, Group N engine/transmission mounts (tightens everything up), short shift kit. I think it was Red Line MTL that was recommended and used for transmission fluid, which smoothed out the notchy shifting, actually made a difference. I used Korman street/track suspension kit, which was solid. On engine, I had it chipped, which you could feel. On intake and headers, there are some beautiful parts to buy out there ... none of which I did. They're pricey, with many options/combinations ... with lots of claims on gains. I could never get comfortable which combination would be great and would really work. So, I heat-wrapped my stock headers and left it at that. Behind the header, did a track-only straight through DTM-tip exhaust that sounded awesome. Test pipe, no cats.
I had 245/35 17s on all four corners. Everyone will tell you they won't fit, but they fit perfectly on mine once the rear fenders were rolled. This is with the Korman suspension, which was 1-1.5" lower. Not sure the offset, unfortunately. First had TSW wheels, then Revolutions ... which looked great in matching black pearl with machined lips.
Later, blew the engine at Sears Point in a glorious plume of $moke. Went for the Turner 2.5 kit, which made a big difference, obviously. Rebuild was something like $12-15k in 1999 or so. Ouch. You'll note the 2.3 vs. 2.5 difference when driving your Sport Evo.
Despite your comments at the beginning of the video ... for the record, I *LOVED* this car. Prepped as described, it was like driving an exposed nerve ...
Thanks for the input!
... forgot to mention aluminum control arms, though maybe that was part of the Korman package. I can't recall ... we're talking 25 years ago and I'm getting old.
Windows are an under appreciated part of the car. Check out the clarity at time mark 45:45. Plus room to improve!
I was just thinking that. The glass quality on these cars is insanely good.
Person filming with the nails and phone? Ms Wabba?
Yep
Matt the hyper dressing that you sell in your bottle 32 oz / gallon is it already diluted 4 to 1? Thank you
We offer both, diluted and undiluted.
I know this is only the decon video and this question would be more relevant on the coating video, but do you ever find yourself missing the power lock collinite combo? I still haven't moved to coatings because from what I've heard they don't have the same look and feel. Am I making a mistake being stuck in the wax age?
I don't. Modern coatings look just as good and are just as slick.
What model Tudor did you end up getting?
is there any product that you’ve used from the very beginning ? something you’ve never switched out on your arsenal, never found anything better ? for instance a compound or a glass cleaner ext.
E92 M3
Hmm... Good question. P21S Polishing soap is one. Griot's Enginer Cleaner is another.
Nice work, what about the wheels and the archs video shows its missed
I remove the wheels and do those separately.
Are yall planning on reviewing the Active 2.3? I'm surprised you havent gotten one yet to review since yall have worked so closely with Active on the 2.0.
If you watched the 13:00 mark of the video, you would see that he has a 2.3 sitting on the ground under his Kranzle. He even makes comment that he will be testing it sometime soon.
@@stephenleach4808 ah ok I missed that part. I listen/watch when I’m working and must have missed him when he mentioned it.
Tommy messed with it. It's so, so. That's why I'm not in a rush to mess with. I'll get to it at some point.
I think you'd be better off with a Comet.
Don’t think og has reviewed it yet but I’ve heard some really positive things on the 2.3
Please Matt just do something about all the hideous M Sport colours in the engine bay. That’s about all the car needs
For good foam, what's more important; PSI or GPM?
GPM. He’s made videos on this topic.
200hp n/a from a 4cyl in the mid 80's. Honda was still just scratching that into like 2017.
I'm always amazed when someone is too lazy to search for information. I'm a fan of e30 in general, so m3 is one of my dream cars, but Honda's B generation of engine had 1.6 4cyl with 180hp n/a, and also 1.8 with 200 hp n/a, later on F20 a 2.0 liter with 240, common knowledge for any car guy.
@Nameless402 Way to completely miss the point with your snarky little reply.
In 2001 they brought out the Civic Type R with 200bhp....
@79blustone the BMW 4 cyl n/a engine that was designed in 1985 made the same horsepower that 4 cyl n/a engines inside sports cars would make for the next 35 years. Including Honda which came out with a 200hp 4 cyl engine about 10 FUCKING YEARS after BMW and kept selling all the way into the modern age.
@@79blustone Even the BRZ was a sports car with a 200hp 4 pot being sold up to like 2 years ago.
Swap to e36 steering rack
👍
325i is the way to go with the E30. Don’t waste your money.
Chris probably has a CD lol
Solo sprayers are the only way to go….
$700 decon package? How? Lol. Man, considering how old it is correction will take a good minute
Put an e36 motor in it lol
16:10 i cant help but imagine the water/soap getting in the fuse box connections and causing corrosion, it was never designed for high pressure water.
I've done this hundreds of times. A pressure washer at distance isn't going to hurt anything. In fact, it uses much less water than a regular garden hose.