You can do it with a circular saw and a speed square as well, just need to hold the angles consistently. the more accurate the angle and length is held the more square it will be
Great vid. Thinking about adding a strip of vinyl or something to the top of rim board and joists to keep the plywood floor from squeaking 5 years down the road....
Thanks! Yep, it's only a few extra small steps to eliminate squeaks between joists and the floor boards. A strip of roof felt, duct tape or a thin bead of caulking on top of the joists is better than not doing anything at all.
It should be 8 degrees, but the angle cut would be from one corner of the 4x4 to the opposite corner. Not one flat side to the other, so that you get the angle from both directions, to match the base. IMO, it's not necessary to make that cut unless you are trying to rest the legs on concrete pillars of some kind. If it's to be set on the ground, the inside corners of all the 4 x 4 posts will press into the ground just a little.
Can you explain the different angles for me? I think I know where the 8* comes from. Most elevator brackets are set at 8*. Why did you go with 12.5* on the tops and bottoms of your 2x6s?
I really don't have an explanation other than that ripping them on the table saw at 12.5 degrees is what it takes to make the base joists level on top, so you have a flat surface to secure the plywood or floorboards. It also provides a flat surface for which you can apply construction adhesive if you are worried about the floor squeaking.
Why couldn't you make a cut partially thru the inside of the plywood siding allowing it to bend ever so slightly to go to bottom of joist without breaking? Then the seam at floor will be waterproof.
You certainly could, but if your plywood sides are 1/2", they would probably have to be cut (about 5") shorter on the bottom, since the blind base rim joists lean outward at the bottom with this method. The plywood would bend outward also down there if you didn't cut it shorter. As long as the plywood comes down far enough onto the rim joist to get some screws or nails along the bottom to connect it to the rim joist, it should work just fine. .
You could, but you compromise the integrity of the 4x4 a bit and you would only get an angle outward to one side rather than outward from the corner, unless you pitch two sides of the end of your 4x4, but then you are cutting even more out of it.
Excellent instruction!! Now... hopefully everyone has a table saw and chop saw at home... :-)
You can do it with a circular saw and a speed square as well, just need to hold the angles consistently. the more accurate the angle and length is held the more square it will be
Great idea. Thanks.
Great vid. Thinking about adding a strip of vinyl or something to the top of rim board and joists to keep the plywood floor from squeaking 5 years down the road....
Thanks! Yep, it's only a few extra small steps to eliminate squeaks between joists and the floor boards. A strip of roof felt, duct tape or a thin bead of caulking on top of the joists is better than not doing anything at all.
What degree should you cut the bottoms of the 4x4's that touch the ground so that they are flat on the ground?
It should be 8 degrees, but the angle cut would be from one corner of the 4x4 to the opposite corner. Not one flat side to the other, so that you get the angle from both directions, to match the base. IMO, it's not necessary to make that cut unless you are trying to rest the legs on concrete pillars of some kind. If it's to be set on the ground, the inside corners of all the 4 x 4 posts will press into the ground just a little.
@@UncleBucks thank you that makes sense
Do you angle cut the tops of the legs or just leave them square and hold them down an inch or so?
You really don't need to angle cut them on top. There should still be enough room to get bolts through the legs either way.
Are you screwing the base of the blind to the joists in the base that you showed in this video? Thanks
The joists of the base in this video also serves as the joist/base of the blind. Just add walls!
Can you explain the different angles for me? I think I know where the 8* comes from. Most elevator brackets are set at 8*. Why did you go with 12.5* on the tops and bottoms of your 2x6s?
I really don't have an explanation other than that ripping them on the table saw at 12.5 degrees is what it takes to make the base joists level on top, so you have a flat surface to secure the plywood or floorboards. It also provides a flat surface for which you can apply construction adhesive if you are worried about the floor squeaking.
Why couldn't you make a cut partially thru the inside of the plywood siding allowing it to bend ever so slightly to go to bottom of joist without breaking? Then the seam at floor will be waterproof.
That's a good idea! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I feel like you could do this with an octagon base, correct?
You certainly could, but if your plywood sides are 1/2", they would probably have to be cut (about 5") shorter on the bottom, since the blind base rim joists lean outward at the bottom with this method. The plywood would bend outward also down there if you didn't cut it shorter. As long as the plywood comes down far enough onto the rim joist to get some screws or nails along the bottom to connect it to the rim joist, it should work just fine. .
I'll just buy the brackets!
Brackets are definitely a better way to go for those who are not on a tight budget. Thanks for watching & commenting!
I think this is the same way you splay the legs on a saw horse
So, can you just cut the 4x4 post at 8• at the top and keep your other boards level. Would that not work just the same.
You could, but you compromise the integrity of the 4x4 a bit and you would only get an angle outward to one side rather than outward from the corner, unless you pitch two sides of the end of your 4x4, but then you are cutting even more out of it.