Awesome video!! I am more educated than I was 20 minutes ago, and I am planning to build a house with wood as a heating system, so this is valuable information for me! Thanks!!
@@smartwatchonpluto Stoves didn't used to have baffles at all. The flames just went straight up the chimney. What increases the chances of a chimney fire is burning unseasoned/wet wood inefficiently or the exhaust gasses being too cool(less that 250f). These are what create creosote which is what causes chimeny fires.
13:13 This awesome video serves two purposes: 1) instruction video for his efficient wood stove and 2) how to make an efficient instruction video. Well done.
For anyone generally interested in burning solid fuels efficiently, I would like to point out the works of one L. D. Porta, he worked with steam locomotives, but some of his work is relevant to any fireplace burning solid fuels. One of the basic things he noted was the fact that the existing locomotives he was working on originally had primary/secondary air ratio of around 80/20 %. And he noted that this was problematic. As the more air was fed in, the hotter the fire burned and so would release more combustible gases. Because of this, regardless of the flow rate, little oxygen made it past the bed of coal, and simply put the secondary air feed was found inadequate to complete the burn. On the other hand, simply opening the secondary air holes more, was not ideal either. He discovered that sometimes the locomotives actually had even fist sized lumps of coal sucked all the way to the other side of the boiler, in what is called the smoke box. He figured that the amount of smaller particles flowing through the boiler more or less incompletely burned must have been significant. With these observations he set out to make alterations. He figured out that the ideal ratio for primary and secondary air feed should be completely reversed to 20/80, with the secondary air carefully mixed into the fire above the bed of coal. So he made alterations that would significantly restrict flow through the bottom grill and add a system of air distribution pipes all over the firebox distributing most of the airflow as secondary air. Then he did some other work, more specific to locomotives, which I will ignore at this point... But overall he did achieve significant changes to the locomotives he worked on. The fuel consumption was lower, and even fires along the track, which used to be a constant issue during the time when steam locomotives were used generally, stopped. When I first read about Porta's work, I did think so many things just made sense. In a way it is a bit sad that by his time the age of steam locomotives was already fading. But he did draw from the works of legendary people in the field and applied scientific methods to locomotive design. It is a bit sad that he only could do alterations to existing locomotives, as he wanted to design a completely new model and as far as I know, worked on his designs pretty much all his life.
Great comment juho! I have obsessed a bit over this topic after scratch building/ welding stove and chimney in the very thick walls of an old stone house down in Spain. I made piping for secondary air but found no information on ratio. However stove works fantastic and heats very efficently. I also made an art-deco inspired grill to cover the whole thing fluch with the wall, and match the old style of the house we wanted. Im a mechanical engineer so I love to get nerdy about this. I will check out if I find anything on L. D. Porta in the library in Stockholm
I VERY MUCH respect and admire all the work that went into this. Having an idea and building it = great! Having an idea building and testing, and then changing it = Stellar. This is how we make progress, with a little applied science, testing and iterating.
I got here from another stove video, where I'm yelling at my screen to someone talking about poor burn time while I'm looking at their air control wide open. Good looking stove, and looks like you got it burning perfectly at the end. Love seeing other people know how to run a stove.
I have never seen a video so concisely informative before. Especially about stoves where normally it’s either 5 minutes of scenic snow before an infomercial on which firelighter is best or some dude who is delighted to finally have an audience that can’t interrupt a his monologue. Thanks!
This was a great, logical study. I liked how you made the top and back removable for changes to get the burn process where you wanted it to be. One thing that might improve the burn, and it could still be done, is to add 1" thick fire brick sections to the top of the your diagonal baffle. That would keep the side of the baffle in the burn chamber hotter and might get a more complete burn in the fire chamber itself. Excellent video quality showing all the details and thank you for not polluting the video with obnoxious music!
Hi, interesting video. It's refreshing to see a stove vid that shows the inclusion of the baffle. So many diy stoves are built by clueless people. The secondary combustion chamber concept has been around for a very long time now and it's good that you have brought awareness to interested viewers. Something that bothers me about some stove designs is that inclusion of the firebrick/refractory blocks in the sides - it acts as insulation reducing heat transfer to the space you are trying to warm up so instead it is lost up the flue. I have seen commercially available wood burners that are basically highly efficient wood incinerators but lousy room heaters. I have been doing this for a while so a little trick to properly turn that space behind the baffle into a secondary combustion chamber is to have a hole in the baffle at the back so that flame from the primary burn helps keep the re-oxygenated smoke alight ensuring complete and clean secondary combustion - all smoke burned. I use a 2 inch half circle in my cylinder stoves. It is also a good idea to have an adjustable damper flap about 9 inches to a foot up the flue, it's old school but useful for restricting heat loss up the flue when you don't want a roaring fire. Have a great journey of discovery.
Hello, I partly agree with you but I see it different. I suppose to have a clean burn you need a high temperature. So insulation is good. I would prefer to see a second box on top of that stove where you could reclaim the heat AFTER the burn is completed. This is what I miss on wood stoves. I made a metal box on top of my stove that radiate a lot of heat and flue gasses leaving to the chimney are mostly between 80-100°C.
@@andrep5899hi, it greatly depends on how dry your firewood is. Really low moisture content produces dry smoke which is readily combustible at any internal stove temperature when mixed with the extra air behind the throat and the burn maintained by the flame hole at the back of the throat so no wasted wood gas. The second benefit of having a small flame hole in the back of the throat is that there is no soot trap. Dry wood burnt in a well designed secondary combustion stove also eliminates creosote so the flue stays relatively clean depending on wood choices available. Hope that helps.
You have no idea how useful this video was to understand a woodstove! I now know why they look like they do and how to properly use the thing. Thank you!
This video is amazing! It is exactly what a prospective stove builder is looking for in order to build a stove that takes account of efficiency and in the UK would be a DEFRA approved appliance. Not found anything else like it on the internet so far that actually explains the working principles of primary, secondary, (tertiary) air. Many thanks for being so open with your design. It's a clever piece of practical engineering.
Awesome mate, love it! Thanks for sharing your design thoughts and testing results. The key bit is really the failures - they're what lead to the successes and the lessons learnt!
I'm looking to replace a woodstove, so this was really good information. Nice work, too. And as someone else says, thanks for the straightforward approach that fully informs but doesn't waste our time.
Thanks for sharing. This is a real help as I have built my own stoves before I needed to see how the secondary burn setup works. This is reasonably simple and might modify the burn tubes so that they can be replaced. I will be building a new stove similar to your design for a small space, under 500 Sq ft. This is the only video I have found that breaks down the functions and explains the process and what works best. Again, thanks!
Other aspects I would add: make all those air intakes fed from external air. This would increase the heating efficiency to the room as you won't be pulling in cold air from outside.
@@MrSprintcat In some modern stoves you run a second lower pipe to the outside of your house and that acts as your combustion air in. The theory being you are pulling cold outdoor air to burn vs creating a negative pressure in the home by pulling in air from inside the house.
@MrSprintcat you pull your intake air from outside instead of from your living space. When you pull air from your living space, you also pull cold air in from outside... not efficient. When your fireplace air intake comes directly from the outdoors, you don't pull cold air into your living space, thus warmer room.
It seems like he was asking to pull air from the inside of the room, not the outside, i wouldn't want to pull air from the inside of the room that I just heated? I have a four inch intake from outside.Going to my wood stove also
Thank you for explaining the way these stoves work! In Australia wood stoves must be tested, we have one that is 86% efficient, it replaced a stove that was 56% efficient. I'm really impressed with your understanding of how that is achieved.
Absolutely outstanding - good design/test/build process informed by the science, and a thoughtful, articulate, clear and succinct commentary. BRAVO! My (commercially made) stove has a very similar design (save the secondary air channel takes a 90deg turn to the back of the stove to lengthen it; and the baffle is hollow, drawing tertiary air in from the back and injecting it at base and top of the slope). It was the first in England (1993) with this design approach. With what I've learnt since, the only way you could substantially improve upon this is to encase it in masonry, soapstone or Silicon Carbide to make it a mass heater. The extra insulation adds to efficiency as well as lengthening the refuelling intervals.
Dude i wasn’t expecting this. I love burning wood for heat and a few things you pointed out I have never thought of. This is good stuff im always thinking about how to make a wood burner more efficient.
Good presentation, I've been working with RMH stoves for 20 years or so, built a dozen or so and have been heating my home with them constantly for the last 10 years. Always looking to improve the concept/design, ready to build another a bit more refined, you've given me some ideas to experiment with, thank you. Keep up the good work
There are two things I want from a good wood stove. It has to be possible to remove ash while the fire is burning. That is there has to be a movable/shakable V shaped grill on the bottom and a removable fire bucket underneath. And secondly there has to be a way to add more wood to the fire without letting the smoke / ash out into the room. In essence it has to be possible to operate the stove continuously.
I wish car designers would use this approach instead of making useless improvements like multiple driver seat adjustments, blind spot alert, 747 cockpit controls, tpms………
This is the exact type video we need more of there are lots of how to make/fabricate videos. There’s a lack of video that can fabricate and just want to see other ppls ideas and experiments.
Just found your channel. Really enjoy your videos. Really informative, entreating and have a great pace. Not to technical and not to focused on the minutia of the build.
Excellent video sir, you must be very pleased with the stove. There's a product in the UK called recoheat and it's amazing. It captures a bunch of heat that's going out the flue using a coil inside the flue and pushing air through the coil with an aquarium pump. You could modify the stove to do something similar, or put it in the flue as in the original product. There's two angles to efficiency of stoves: combustion efficiency, and percentage of heat claimed from the combustion
You have a fantastic ability to succinctly pass along good information. One of the best YT channels I have found in years. Keep making content and happily subscribed!
First off, solid videos and amazing craftsmanship! Another build and challenge is to design/build what is called the twin-fire which has the wood burning uptop and shift a lever which then pulls the flame downward into another chamber below(with a glass door) its wild!
Fantastic job and great product at the end. All I would add is generally sheet steel doors will warp over time so generally we'd use cast iron, but as a self made product it's a great job
Terrific overview video, I learned a ton! A wood stove is pretty high on my list of projects, so I’d love a few more details and dimensions, but this video helps SO much, thank you!
I've had so many request that I'm going to post some specs and pics on my website in the next week or so. Feel free to ask any specific question too, I'll do my best to answer them.
good job, nice content, for V2 you should try adding the air from outside, you can use a bigger diameter exhaust with a smaller pipe inside (or nest to it) for the intake, the smaller pipe would feed outside to the lower part of the woodstove. The fact it it taking heated air from inside the room and spitting it out of the exhaust makes it inefficient, a benefit is that it keeps the air inside fresh.
Really wish I'd come across this video a couple of months ago before I did some similar work to my shop wood burner. Great video and well explained. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Very well done video. Great explanation of what you’re going for in the design and how you got it done, just simply great. Nice shop too👍. We’re in Missouri.
I’ve watched this a few times now, great content and presentation. I understand that the secondary combustion is taking place above the angled baffle plate. What confuses me though is that the flue is immediately above this secondary burn. Doesn’t this mean that any extra heat just goes straight up the chimney since there is no heat exchanger involved? 🤔
UK power sockets on the backwall 🤗 Great experiment! If you look at rocket stoves/mass heaters, they take the cooler flue gasses at the bottom of the heat receiver rather than the top of the stove, yes a big departure from the norm, saw this on a US stove that went out of business but tried it myself and increased het output from the top of the stove considerably.
This was an amazing process. I am building a vacation/retirement home in the mountains where I have unlimited access to wood. Unfortunately, my State doesn't want us burning wood unless we spend many thousands of dollars on wood stoves. This looks to solve most of the issues, but wouldn't be allowed INSIDE the home. I will figure a way to use the generated heat and still get it into the home. Great job.
Thanks! I'm going to be making a video of a wood stove to heat water soon. Hot water could be piped through radiators or in floor heating pipes to heat a house.
That's asinine. You could just do it anyway, or maybe there's a way to put a wood stove outside but with just the front inside, like a window a/c unit. And maybe some sort of heatsink to further spread excess heat in the cabin, or like a thermodynamic radiator, such as like model t's used, where instead of relying on a water pump, it was the heating and cooling of the water alone that moved it around via thermal expansion.
Very impressive! I'm not as handy as you, but I definitely know and appreciate what you're presenting. I've had a SCAN Andersen 10 for many years and absolutely love its air wash and secondary combustion aspects - and the fact that I have a front row seat to the show. 🙂
You should build one to run a catalytic converter. I've had stoves with that basic design. They were dragons but not in a good way. It basically burns up wood faster to achieve that more efficient burn. A catalytic stove uses a fraction of the wood and puts off just as much or more heat. And it's cleaner burning. I used to burn 4 to 6 cords a winter. Now never more than 2 cords. It's worth the cost of replacing the combustor every 6 years.
I'm a big fan of cat stoves and have had several in the last 20 years. But they require a bit more nuance and skill to operate them well, which I think is why the industry generally moved away from them as traditional stoves got more efficient . This stove is for my barn office, so I don't run it every day/all day so I just went with a simpler design. But a cat stove would be a really fun build.
I had one, a Vermont Castings, and didn't like it. The combustor needed constant cleaning and was mounted in an awkward, difficult to reach pocket at the rear of the stove. And then it needed replacing at just four years (burning softwoods like pine, spruce, fir appear to shorten the life of a catalytic combustor). A pricey little number. I'd rather burn a little more wood.
@KevinMaxwell-o3t that's unfortunate. I have a Woodstock soapstone stove and the only thing I'd take for it is another one. I've had nothing but reliable service from the combustor in that stove. I just reordered one about 2 weeks ago asked when the last time I got one was and realized that it had been 12 years since I had ordered my last one from them. I burn a lot of pine not spruce and mixed hardwoods seems to usually be more pine.
I don't know why anyone would knock this video, some people just like to pick, I have seen tons of these fire box making videos, This one is excellent, so well explained, I learnt heaps. Thanks
Great idea and great execution. I've seen fireplaces that have a heat exchanger inside to help distribute heat into the room. I think it was essentially a fan blowing air through a tube that was routed into and out of the firebox.
Thanks. I thought about doing something like that but there's a balance. The more heat you take out of the firebox the cooler the inside temperature is and that leads to a less complete burn. It is a cool idea though, maybe next time I need a wood stove I'll experiment with that. I'm going to try to make a sterling engine fan soon for the top of the stove so that will help circulate air if it works and I'll post a video of that build.
I'd love to see this applied to a backyard incinerator. I currently use a tilted 40 gallon drum with a vortex generator, but I just know there's some room for improvement to get an even cleaner burn. Maybe a heated draft pipe and a flu for that secondary burn. 🤔
@@GreenhillForge This really is a wonderful demonstration of physics and craftmanship. You could make a small Sterling Fan for the top of the oven. These are often used on long boats to distribute the heat through the cabin. Better heat distribution also reduces the fuel need.
Great design! You definitely know what you are doing. I believe it could be made slightly deeper. One advantage would be possibility of burning longer logs, and another would be more space for kettle or pan.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey everyone, dimensions and a few pics are now available for free on my Patreon page. Link in the description.
Aer you going to sell these?
Awesome video!! I am more educated than I was 20 minutes ago, and I am planning to build a house with wood as a heating system, so this is valuable information for me! Thanks!!
Would the extra flame increase the chance of a chimney fire?
@@smartwatchonpluto Stoves didn't used to have baffles at all. The flames just went straight up the chimney. What increases the chances of a chimney fire is burning unseasoned/wet wood inefficiently or the exhaust gasses being too cool(less that 250f). These are what create creosote which is what causes chimeny fires.
What if you used the outside air?
This video is underrated. Learned a ton and you should start selling that design 😊
Thanks a lot!
Drawing up decent plans is A LOT of work, and, yes, I’d definitely buy these plans
If you have the skill to make stuff like this, welding etc. Probably don't need instructions other than the video.
It helps 😂
@@GreenhillForge Yeah, if you were here I'd be like... that looks like what I need... about the right size too!
13:13 This awesome video serves two purposes: 1) instruction video for his efficient wood stove and 2) how to make an efficient instruction video. Well done.
For anyone generally interested in burning solid fuels efficiently, I would like to point out the works of one L. D. Porta, he worked with steam locomotives, but some of his work is relevant to any fireplace burning solid fuels.
One of the basic things he noted was the fact that the existing locomotives he was working on originally had primary/secondary air ratio of around 80/20 %. And he noted that this was problematic. As the more air was fed in, the hotter the fire burned and so would release more combustible gases. Because of this, regardless of the flow rate, little oxygen made it past the bed of coal, and simply put the secondary air feed was found inadequate to complete the burn. On the other hand, simply opening the secondary air holes more, was not ideal either.
He discovered that sometimes the locomotives actually had even fist sized lumps of coal sucked all the way to the other side of the boiler, in what is called the smoke box. He figured that the amount of smaller particles flowing through the boiler more or less incompletely burned must have been significant.
With these observations he set out to make alterations. He figured out that the ideal ratio for primary and secondary air feed should be completely reversed to 20/80, with the secondary air carefully mixed into the fire above the bed of coal.
So he made alterations that would significantly restrict flow through the bottom grill and add a system of air distribution pipes all over the firebox distributing most of the airflow as secondary air.
Then he did some other work, more specific to locomotives, which I will ignore at this point... But overall he did achieve significant changes to the locomotives he worked on. The fuel consumption was lower, and even fires along the track, which used to be a constant issue during the time when steam locomotives were used generally, stopped.
When I first read about Porta's work, I did think so many things just made sense. In a way it is a bit sad that by his time the age of steam locomotives was already fading. But he did draw from the works of legendary people in the field and applied scientific methods to locomotive design. It is a bit sad that he only could do alterations to existing locomotives, as he wanted to design a completely new model and as far as I know, worked on his designs pretty much all his life.
Great comment juho! I have obsessed a bit over this topic after scratch building/ welding stove and chimney in the very thick walls of an old stone house down in Spain. I made piping for secondary air but found no information on ratio. However stove works fantastic and heats very efficently. I also made an art-deco inspired grill to cover the whole thing fluch with the wall, and match the old style of the house we wanted. Im a mechanical engineer so I love to get nerdy about this. I will check out if I find anything on L. D. Porta in the library in Stockholm
Mad props for cutting out so much unnecessary time. Some UA-cam vids are PAINFULY TOO LONG. Also GREAT JOB on the stove and conveying information.
Was gonna say the same thing. Efficient and didn't skip anything, but also didn't BS us. Good job.
so accurate🙌🏼
Totally agree! YT's value is get info, get out. Not sit around for hours watching TV.
This video is so efficient. You got to the point, started building it based on those points, and explained the build succinctly enough. Wow
This is more informative than ANY other woodstove video I’ve seen.
These are the types of videos that got me addicted to youtube.
I VERY MUCH respect and admire all the work that went into this. Having an idea and building it = great! Having an idea building and testing, and then changing it = Stellar. This is how we make progress, with a little applied science, testing and iterating.
Thanks very much! I totally agree. Testing, iterating and improving is where the real fun is.
I got here from another stove video, where I'm yelling at my screen to someone talking about poor burn time while I'm looking at their air control wide open.
Good looking stove, and looks like you got it burning perfectly at the end. Love seeing other people know how to run a stove.
I have never seen a video so concisely informative before. Especially about stoves where normally it’s either 5 minutes of scenic snow before an infomercial on which firelighter is best or some dude who is delighted to finally have an audience that can’t interrupt a his monologue.
Thanks!
Now all I need is a shop, forge equipment and a review of this! Nice work, like previous commenter, you should seriously consider selling units!
This was a great, logical study. I liked how you made the top and back removable for changes to get the burn process where you wanted it to be. One thing that might improve the burn, and it could still be done, is to add 1" thick fire brick sections to the top of the your diagonal baffle. That would keep the side of the baffle in the burn chamber hotter and might get a more complete burn in the fire chamber itself. Excellent video quality showing all the details and thank you for not polluting the video with obnoxious music!
Well, I just applied your Idea to my J.A Roby fixed all my problems of lack of air, and the 45* plate made it work way better.
That's Awesome!
Thank you for not taking 30+ minutes to show this like so many others do
Hi, interesting video. It's refreshing to see a stove vid that shows the inclusion of the baffle. So many diy stoves are built by clueless people.
The secondary combustion chamber concept has been around for a very long time now and it's good that you have brought awareness to interested viewers.
Something that bothers me about some stove designs is that inclusion of the firebrick/refractory blocks in the sides - it acts as insulation reducing heat transfer to the space you are trying to warm up so instead it is lost up the flue. I have seen commercially available wood burners that are basically highly efficient wood incinerators but lousy room heaters.
I have been doing this for a while so a little trick to properly turn that space behind the baffle into a secondary combustion chamber is to have a hole in the baffle at the back so that flame from the primary burn helps keep the re-oxygenated smoke alight ensuring complete and clean secondary combustion - all smoke burned. I use a 2 inch half circle in my cylinder stoves. It is also a good idea to have an adjustable damper flap about 9 inches to a foot up the flue, it's old school but useful for restricting heat loss up the flue when you don't want a roaring fire. Have a great journey of discovery.
Hello, I partly agree with you but I see it different. I suppose to have a clean burn you need a high temperature. So insulation is good. I would prefer to see a second box on top of that stove where you could reclaim the heat AFTER the burn is completed. This is what I miss on wood stoves. I made a metal box on top of my stove that radiate a lot of heat and flue gasses leaving to the chimney are mostly between 80-100°C.
@@andrep5899hi, it greatly depends on how dry your firewood is. Really low moisture content produces dry smoke which is readily combustible at any internal stove temperature when mixed with the extra air behind the throat and the burn maintained by the flame hole at the back of the throat so no wasted wood gas. The second benefit of having a small flame hole in the back of the throat is that there is no soot trap. Dry wood burnt in a well designed secondary combustion stove also eliminates creosote so the flue stays relatively clean depending on wood choices available. Hope that helps.
This is one of the best DIY channels I have found for metalwork. Keep going!
Great job my man!
Retired sheet metal worker here. Good to see your skills.👍
Your ability to combine theory, craftsmanship and troubleshooting is impressive. Thanks for sharing Good Sir.
best wood stove explanation and build video on youtube- thanks for the upload!
Excellent video and excellent work sir.
You have no idea how useful this video was to understand a woodstove! I now know why they look like they do and how to properly use the thing. Thank you!
Singlehanded best video I’ve seen on UA-cam! Thank you for the information!
Thanks a lot!
Love how down to earth he sounds while dissing some seriously great information great video man!
Great job brother! Well done!
This video is amazing! It is exactly what a prospective stove builder is looking for in order to build a stove that takes account of efficiency and in the UK would be a DEFRA approved appliance. Not found anything else like it on the internet so far that actually explains the working principles of primary, secondary, (tertiary) air.
Many thanks for being so open with your design. It's a clever piece of practical engineering.
I'll be doing a V2 with upgrades at some point.
@GreenhillForge That sounds exciting! Definitely scope to refine your design and optimise the efficiency, but V1 is a really good starting point.
Awesome man. I’ve been searching for videos like this explaining how these work for a long time. Love it
Wow, turned out better than anything on the market. My compliments. Very well thought out and executed.
Awesome mate, love it!
Thanks for sharing your design thoughts and testing results. The key bit is really the failures - they're what lead to the successes and the lessons learnt!
Thanks mate! 100%. I grow far more as a person from a day where I failed 5 times as opposed to a day where I succeeded 5 times.
That's so much interesting, now I want to go create my own ahah, thanks for all this knowledge shared !
Very well explained and built.
Not only simple but elegant. Well done.
Great job on the wood stove!
I'm looking to replace a woodstove, so this was really good information. Nice work, too.
And as someone else says, thanks for the straightforward approach that fully informs but doesn't waste our time.
Excellent clear video with loads of useful information . Thanks for posting .
Thanks for sharing. This is a real help as I have built my own stoves before I needed to see how the secondary burn setup works. This is reasonably simple and might modify the burn tubes so that they can be replaced. I will be building a new stove similar to your design for a small space, under 500 Sq ft. This is the only video I have found that breaks down the functions and explains the process and what works best. Again, thanks!
Other aspects I would add: make all those air intakes fed from external air. This would increase the heating efficiency to the room as you won't be pulling in cold air from outside.
Yes, that is the number one priority!
Please explain. Where would you be getting external air from? The room ? The air you just heated up ? You lost me
@@MrSprintcat In some modern stoves you run a second lower pipe to the outside of your house and that acts as your combustion air in. The theory being you are pulling cold outdoor air to burn vs creating a negative pressure in the home by pulling in air from inside the house.
@MrSprintcat you pull your intake air from outside instead of from your living space. When you pull air from your living space, you also pull cold air in from outside... not efficient. When your fireplace air intake comes directly from the outdoors, you don't pull cold air into your living space, thus warmer room.
It seems like he was asking to pull air from the inside of the room, not the outside, i wouldn't want to pull air from the inside of the room that I just heated? I have a four inch intake from outside.Going to my wood stove also
I like it! Not fancy, works well. I do enjoy the fabrication portion but appreciate that you spent the time explaining things. May have to subscribe!!
Thanks! Tons more coming
Thank you for explaining the way these stoves work! In Australia wood stoves must be tested, we have one that is 86% efficient, it replaced a stove that was 56% efficient. I'm really impressed with your understanding of how that is achieved.
Wow! The entire thought process and build is just impressive. Than you for taking time to build, film, edit and post this video.
Absolutely outstanding - good design/test/build process informed by the science, and a thoughtful, articulate, clear and succinct commentary. BRAVO! My (commercially made) stove has a very similar design (save the secondary air channel takes a 90deg turn to the back of the stove to lengthen it; and the baffle is hollow, drawing tertiary air in from the back and injecting it at base and top of the slope). It was the first in England (1993) with this design approach. With what I've learnt since, the only way you could substantially improve upon this is to encase it in masonry, soapstone or Silicon Carbide to make it a mass heater. The extra insulation adds to efficiency as well as lengthening the refuelling intervals.
Super-educational with no fluff. Liked and subscribed, sir!
This makes me want to learn welding. Cool project.
Go for it!
Dude i wasn’t expecting this. I love burning wood for heat and a few things you pointed out I have never thought of. This is good stuff im always thinking about how to make a wood burner more efficient.
Very cool video! Thanks for taking the time to create it!
Good presentation, I've been working with RMH stoves for 20 years or so, built a dozen or so and have been heating my home with them constantly for the last 10 years. Always looking to improve the concept/design, ready to build another a bit more refined, you've given me some ideas to experiment with, thank you. Keep up the good work
Wow!! Excellent video. I learned so much. This is what UA-cam should be for. Thank you!!!!
There are two things I want from a good wood stove. It has to be possible to remove ash while the fire is burning. That is there has to be a movable/shakable V shaped grill on the bottom and a removable fire bucket underneath. And secondly there has to be a way to add more wood to the fire without letting the smoke / ash out into the room. In essence it has to be possible to operate the stove continuously.
I wish car designers would use this approach instead of making useless improvements like multiple driver seat adjustments, blind spot alert, 747 cockpit controls, tpms………
This was so great, thank you! I have an insert system with no venting, this was really helpful to understand what I need to do for venting
This is the exact type video we need more of there are lots of how to make/fabricate videos. There’s a lack of video that can fabricate and just want to see other ppls ideas and experiments.
Thanks for showing us your work.
Loved this video, perfectly paced and full of useful info
Thank you for showing your usage of proper safety gear!
Wow, great job all around in every aspect of this video.
Top notch stove...
Truly well done..
Wow! Love your skill sets. Good job editing too!
Love your detailed explanations and experiments!
Logical approach, straight talk, great craftsmanship with fairly good knowledge about airflow, burning efficiency and nice work of editing the video.
Thanks for cutting out all the fluff and getting to the highlights and telling a story. Have subscribed!
Fantastic design, brilliantly explained, and beautifully executed. I am in awe.
this was incredibly interesting! love the pig tail handles too, i never knew they were made like that for a reason
Best wood stove video I ever watched thanks I will be trying this myself. Very educational.
I'll be doing a V2 with upgrades at some point too
I love it when the algo gives me interesting stuff like this. Subscribed.
Excellent design, thank you for the tutorial.
Just found your channel. Really enjoy your videos. Really informative, entreating and have a great pace. Not to technical and not to focused on the minutia of the build.
Excellent video sir, you must be very pleased with the stove. There's a product in the UK called recoheat and it's amazing. It captures a bunch of heat that's going out the flue using a coil inside the flue and pushing air through the coil with an aquarium pump. You could modify the stove to do something similar, or put it in the flue as in the original product. There's two angles to efficiency of stoves: combustion efficiency, and percentage of heat claimed from the combustion
Excellent video, very well explained, learned loads! 👍
Cool design! Good job. I appreciate that you explain the physics behind your build!
Great video! Very good explanations and camera work!
You have a fantastic ability to succinctly pass along good information. One of the best YT channels I have found in years. Keep making content and happily subscribed!
First off, solid videos and amazing craftsmanship! Another build and challenge is to design/build what is called the twin-fire which has the wood burning uptop and shift a lever which then pulls the flame downward into another chamber below(with a glass door) its wild!
Fantastic job and great product at the end. All I would add is generally sheet steel doors will warp over time so generally we'd use cast iron, but as a self made product it's a great job
Very professional indeed.
I really enjoyed this thank you.
Terrific overview video, I learned a ton! A wood stove is pretty high on my list of projects, so I’d love a few more details and dimensions, but this video helps SO much, thank you!
I've had so many request that I'm going to post some specs and pics on my website in the next week or so. Feel free to ask any specific question too, I'll do my best to answer them.
Amazing design and crafting, so satisfying to watch and I learnt so much! Thanks :)
Amazing craftsmanship and really enjoyed the no nonsense presentation. Very well done! That's an amazing little wood stove! 👍👍
Great stuff, amazing job!!
good job, nice content, for V2 you should try adding the air from outside, you can use a bigger diameter exhaust with a smaller pipe inside (or nest to it) for the intake, the smaller pipe would feed outside to the lower part of the woodstove. The fact it it taking heated air from inside the room and spitting it out of the exhaust makes it inefficient, a benefit is that it keeps the air inside fresh.
Great video, love all the clean and precise explanation.
Great description of the burn system. Looks good too.
Nice vid. Also very big fan of your induction heater
Brilliant! I absolutely envy your virtual smith's workshop there.
Really wish I'd come across this video a couple of months ago before I did some similar work to my shop wood burner.
Great video and well explained.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
I bet there is a huge demand for a light weight pepper wood stove of this design for the right price. Thanks for sharing.
Man you deserve many many more subs, this video is really informative, I was thinking about stoves and smokeless pits and here you are!
Very interesting build. From concept to reality. Great work.
Very well done video. Great explanation of what you’re going for in the design and how you got it done, just simply great. Nice shop too👍. We’re in Missouri.
Awesome vid! Please add more shots of the results as you test, I really wanted to see the secondary combustion as you changed the design
I’ve watched this a few times now, great content and presentation.
I understand that the secondary combustion is taking place above the angled baffle plate.
What confuses me though is that the flue is immediately above this secondary burn. Doesn’t this mean that any extra heat just goes straight up the chimney since there is no heat exchanger involved? 🤔
UK power sockets on the backwall 🤗 Great experiment! If you look at rocket stoves/mass heaters, they take the cooler flue gasses at the bottom of the heat receiver rather than the top of the stove, yes a big departure from the norm, saw this on a US stove that went out of business but tried it myself and increased het output from the top of the stove considerably.
This was an amazing process. I am building a vacation/retirement home in the mountains where I have unlimited access to wood. Unfortunately, my State doesn't want us burning wood unless we spend many thousands of dollars on wood stoves. This looks to solve most of the issues, but wouldn't be allowed INSIDE the home. I will figure a way to use the generated heat and still get it into the home. Great job.
Thanks! I'm going to be making a video of a wood stove to heat water soon. Hot water could be piped through radiators or in floor heating pipes to heat a house.
If you live in the woods who is going to find out you burn wood?
That's asinine. You could just do it anyway, or maybe there's a way to put a wood stove outside but with just the front inside, like a window a/c unit. And maybe some sort of heatsink to further spread excess heat in the cabin, or like a thermodynamic radiator, such as like model t's used, where instead of relying on a water pump, it was the heating and cooling of the water alone that moved it around via thermal expansion.
Sand battery.
Very impressive! I'm not as handy as you, but I definitely know and appreciate what you're presenting. I've had a SCAN Andersen 10 for many years and absolutely love its air wash and secondary combustion aspects - and the fact that I have a front row seat to the show. 🙂
Exactly what I was looking for to build a tiny tent stove.
You should build one to run a catalytic converter. I've had stoves with that basic design. They were dragons but not in a good way. It basically burns up wood faster to achieve that more efficient burn. A catalytic stove uses a fraction of the wood and puts off just as much or more heat. And it's cleaner burning. I used to burn 4 to 6 cords a winter. Now never more than 2 cords. It's worth the cost of replacing the combustor every 6 years.
I'm a big fan of cat stoves and have had several in the last 20 years. But they require a bit more nuance and skill to operate them well, which I think is why the industry generally moved away from them as traditional stoves got more efficient . This stove is for my barn office, so I don't run it every day/all day so I just went with a simpler design. But a cat stove would be a really fun build.
Catalytic combustor*
I had one, a Vermont Castings, and didn't like it. The combustor needed constant cleaning and was mounted in an awkward, difficult to reach pocket at the rear of the stove. And then it needed replacing at just four years (burning softwoods like pine, spruce, fir appear to shorten the life of a catalytic combustor). A pricey little number. I'd rather burn a little more wood.
@KevinMaxwell-o3t that's unfortunate. I have a Woodstock soapstone stove and the only thing I'd take for it is another one. I've had nothing but reliable service from the combustor in that stove. I just reordered one about 2 weeks ago asked when the last time I got one was and realized that it had been 12 years since I had ordered my last one from them. I burn a lot of pine not spruce and mixed hardwoods seems to usually be more pine.
That's very cool ! Great work
Thanks!
I don't know why anyone would knock this video, some people just like to pick, I have seen tons of these fire box making videos, This one is excellent, so well explained, I learnt heaps. Thanks
Nice work! Loved the editing and how you shared the most important parts of the video.
Great idea and great execution.
I've seen fireplaces that have a heat exchanger inside to help distribute heat into the room. I think it was essentially a fan blowing air through a tube that was routed into and out of the firebox.
Thanks. I thought about doing something like that but there's a balance. The more heat you take out of the firebox the cooler the inside temperature is and that leads to a less complete burn. It is a cool idea though, maybe next time I need a wood stove I'll experiment with that. I'm going to try to make a sterling engine fan soon for the top of the stove so that will help circulate air if it works and I'll post a video of that build.
I'd love to see this applied to a backyard incinerator.
I currently use a tilted 40 gallon drum with a vortex generator, but I just know there's some room for improvement to get an even cleaner burn. Maybe a heated draft pipe and a flu for that secondary burn. 🤔
@@GreenhillForge This really is a wonderful demonstration of physics and craftmanship. You could make a small Sterling Fan for the top of the oven. These are often used on long boats to distribute the heat through the cabin. Better heat distribution also reduces the fuel need.
@Multifreak107 Thanks! A sterling fan is on my list to get to soon.
@dittilio A giant rocket stove would be an amazing incinerator. That sounds like a really fun build!
Super cool video, learned so much in 15 mins!
Thank you. The theory part was 5 stars
Great design! You definitely know what you are doing. I believe it could be made slightly deeper. One advantage would be possibility of burning longer logs, and another would be more space for kettle or pan.