Hi UcantBeSerious03, thank you for the kind words. It was intimidated by this project but motivated by the results that others were getting from their Brembo restorations. I had to hunt for some time for the Brembo bolt torque specs that no one seems to provide and had a few staining issues. In the end, it was totally worth it. I'll do a follow-up video in a year or two to see how they are holding up. Hit me up if you have any questions about any of the content.
Great video, very well done!! Patient step by step process, and attention to detail. Bought one of your blasting kits today, and am in process of converting my HF blasting cabinet. Thank you for your hard work !! James
Hi James, Thank you for your kind comments and supporting my work. I appreciate you very much. The HF conversion is an awesome project. The work you can put out is as good as good as the 10k systems out there. Hit me up with any questions you might have.
Victor great job I appreciate the time you took to show everyone the process of doing it to the calibers and especially the 3-D printing of the bolts and stuff. Keep up the great work we love to see you do.
Hello Gerald, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. I find myself using my 3D printer to solve all kinds of problems. Everyone should learn to use it, it's a game changer. Best of luck with your projects!
@@mikeklossner5105 Hi Mike, Thank you for commenting. I use a Circuit Maker and Circuit Design Space is the software that is used with it. The thing was designed for crafts but it can be used to cut out gaskets and all sorts of other things.
@@mikeklossner5105 Anytime, Mike, Thank you for the encouragement. I'm glad you are finding value in these videos for your viewing time. Best of luck with your restoration :)
Hello Falcon, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. The ability of the homemade wet system to mechanically etch and polish is very interesting to me. Hopefully new types of media will be developed to polish even further. Best of luck with your projects!
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I'm unsure about the cost in today's prices but at the time I built mine it was about $500 not including the air compressor.
Hello Level 7 Performance, Thank you for your kind comment. Vapor blasting is amazing. I highly recommend putting together a similar system to take your work to another level. Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Robert, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. Vapor blasting is so cool. If I could fit my rims in the machine I would do them as well. Can't wait to see what you'll be doing with your own machine. Best of luck with your builds!
Hello Hunting Explained, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. If you want a complete parts breakdown and detailed explanation check out my other videos. This one linked below has my original system. Watch the rest of them that have to do with my upgrades over time so you can see what worked and what I changed. Hopefully it will save you time and money. ua-cam.com/video/4hoJ25zwLyA/v-deo.html Best of luck with your build!
Hi, you are a very patient man. I have a large vapor blaster but it will not replace my dry-blaster to remove paint, rust or powder. One thing to improve your work is a wire wheel. I blast all bolts for just a few seconds in the dry blaster with very fine grit and then run it over an 8 inch wire wheel and within seconds it will polish steel to a mirror finish. Yes it will, when pushing hard enough, remove Zink coating but I replate every bolt with a Nickel/Zink coating anyway.
Hello Bernhard List, Thank you for commenting. The powder coat removal is a real pain with the wet system. I'll have to get into dry blasting for these types of projects. The wire wheel suggestion is a great one that I didn't think about trying and probably would have done a better job on the big bolts. A channel subscriber has a plating kit they he offers. Picking one up will be next so I can learn how to use it. Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared Get a Nickel/Zink kit fir better rust protection than Zink only. I got mine from Gateros in England but in the US Caswell is the way to go. Also get a 20Amp powersupply with adjustable amperage for easier work. My 8inch wire wheel is a great and fairly low price tool. Bolt shine up in seconds and the th reads are perfectly clean too so you only need to re-thread them in case they are damaged. If you want to see pictures my email is: bernhardlist@hotmail.com Contact me and I send some.
Hi Luis, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I had been wanting to restore them for a few years but was intimidated by a project I hadn't done before. I learned a ton and the results exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend taking on big challenges, they will boost your confidence and experience. Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent tutorial on the the rebuild. Your little 3D printed items and process to remove the pistons is great, you should sell a little kit. Having rebuilt these very calipers myself in the past, it can be a PITA getting the pistons out, and messy.
Hello Chest, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Yeah, my off camera attempts at removing the pistons were ugly. Getting them to pop out past the seals along with their boots is the ticket. I'll look into putting a kit together for it. Best of luck with your restorations.
@@vbared Thanks. I'm pretty sure those Brembos fit other model vehicles or are so similar that those fittings you made will work on most if not all Brembos.
Привет друг, спасибо за комментарий и поддержку. Я рад, что вы нашли время, потраченное на это видео, с пользой для вас. Желаю удачи в ваших реставрационных проектах :)
Thank you for taking the time to put together such a detailed overview. Have you any idea what kind of maintenance will be required to keep the metal finish looking that good? I have a small metal zinc plating kit which would have been perfect for the small brackets and also the bolts. You should look into getting something, then you will have everything you need. That was a first-class job!
Hello Speedtripper, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. Time will tell on the longevity of this new finish. I'm hoping the VHT caliper clearcoat will hold up in protecting the aluminum from oxidation. If it doesn't and they need to be redone I won't have to deal with the powder coat removal, that part was the worst. I can knock off painted clear coat real fast with the 36 grit garnet. Please send me the link to your plating kit. I've been interested in learning how to do it. Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I am not selling any zinc-plating kits. I'm based in South Africa and purchased something locally. I have seen kits available in the States. I am in the process of restoring a Honda RC51 and it is a totally pleasure to be able to refurbish all the fasteners and brackets in my garage. All you need is the silver, yellow/gold and black passivates and you are good to go. There is not a fastener on the bike that I can't re-plate to near factory finish. I watch all your uploads and enjoy your commentary. The "gangster accent" is a welcome bonus! :-)
Give Cerakote MC-5100 a try. You can apply it with a sprayer or even a shop towel. It's very hydrophobic and easy to clean. The etch on your calipers looks great, and under a coating like that, the logos will flip-flop from grey to a very intense white.
Hi friend, thank you for the heads up on the Cerakote MC-5100. The Shark Skin I used in the video didn't hold up to the heat but thankfully the clear coat paint has held up, the calipers still look great today. Best of luck with your projects.
@@vbared You're welcome. Thank you for posting the Vapor Blasting videos. I hire a local to vapor blast customer parts, and then Cerakote them. We use Glacier Silver to match cast iron with vapor blasted aluminum. Justin Voss on UA-cam referenced me to Sharkhide on his Nautical Star video. We use that stuff when something is too big to powdercoat.
On parts that require ZERO medium left on them I use bicarbonate of soda as my blast medium It does an excellent job test it on a soda pop can if you want Once I have blasted everything I merely wash the parts off under running water as bicarb dissolves in water
Hi Eugene, Thank you for commenting and suggestion. Baking soda is an excellent cleaning media to use if the original powder coating could have been saved.
Hi Azim, Thank you for commenting and suggestion, it's a good one and something I should have thought about. I did clean up the bolt threads with solvent but didn't chase the threads on the caliper housings. Hopefully, I won't have to pull them apart anytime soon. The finish still looks amazing after all these years. The one thing that didn't hold up was the Sharkskin. It can't handle the heat from the calipers and burns off.
Hi Jeremy, Thank you for commenting and torque info. Yeah, the vise setup was temporary since I was renting the house. The vise is now properly bolted to a heavy wooden work bench. Best of luck with your repairs!
Hi JayJay, Thank you for commenting and information. Yeah, it could have been that as well, hard to tell. I just know that dissimilar unlubricated metals will corrode, seize up, and can damage threads during removal. I can report that since making the video the calipers themselves look just as good and working like before. The only thing I would do differently is use the high temp clear coat on the stainless crossover tube instead of the Shark Skin. That stuff baked off and offered no rust protection.
Thank you for all the great info. We are thinking of buying a vapor blaster for our small machine shop. Do you think the paint protective vinyl would work on a regular dry sand blaster? The 9"x14.75" glass panels we use now last a while but eventually get pitted by the media. We use glass bead and aluminum oxide for media. Thanks again for the great videos on this subject. P.S I'm going to buy a small 12"x6" roll and try it out.
Hi Ed, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, the vinyl sheet should also work for dry blasting since it's designed to protect the automotive paint from sand and small rocks that hit it at 60mph.
Hello Richard, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. I'm planning a video on more testing with V3 printed with PETG along with 8 and 9mm tips that are 70mm long. Daily wet weather over the last couple of weeks has kept me away from the shop (no climate control). Once things dry up a bit I'll be back at it. Thank you for your patience. Stay tuned more coming on V3.
Hey Victor, another nice job. I really like what you've done and what you do. Just a little bit curious about the flair nuts. I have seen flair nut wrench jaws actually spread some as the nuts are just so seized in position. Probably has to do with all the flair surface's. Any way, I did not notice you use any anti-seize on the flair nuts. Any thoughts on that..? Keep up the good work !
Hello Mark, Thank you for commenting. I agree 100% with you that even a flare nut wrench may not always work to remove stubborn nuts. I intended to get across that the chances are best when the most suitable tool for the task is used. Many of the troubles I've experienced could've been avoided had I used the best tool for the job. Great catch on the lack of anti-seize on the flare nuts after I preached about the importance of using it with dissimilar metals. I was worried about contaminating the brake fluid with the anti-seize and the seal not being made properly. Let me know how the anti-seize on the brake line flare nut has worked for you. I learn new things from asking and watching what others do so picking up new tips is always welcome. Best of luck with your builds!
@@vbared Some times we get so eager to assemble I have overlooked the wonderful stuff "anti-seize". I do think that a little is better than none. With that said, use it sparingly maybe with an acid brush, or some type of small applicator and be careful not to get it in the end of the flair,{tube). Hopefully down the road when someone is doing some maintenance there job will go smoother and they may even have some appreciations for someone else's for thought and then apply a little of the wonderful stuff as well for someone else to appreciate.
Hello Mark, I do need to get some kind of a small applicator for the anti-seize lube. I had a hell of a time trying to figure out how to torque those flare nuts to spec. Crow's foot flare nut wrench and an inch pounds torque wrench with a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor to get 124 inch pounds on that crossover line is what worked for me.
What the smallest grit you can go with your cabinet set up. I have old aluminum crankcase cover, aluminum oxide #80 does not do it. Amazon does not have anything smaller or it is really expensive.
Hello Michal, Thank you for commenting. I use two stages of grits for polishing anything larger than a push mower carburetor. If it's a small part the extra fine glass bead media will yield great results. Larger pieces valve covers and calipers need two stages one to strip it clean (80 grit glass bead) and one to polish (extra fine glass bead). Trying to do the large part with extra fine glass bead only will result in a uneven blotchy finish. 80 grit glass bead from Harbor Freight - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html 170 - 325 US Sieve (aka Extra Fine Glass Bead Media) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13 Best of luck!
Also I was looking at your videos to find the one where you turn your blasting cabinet into a vapor cabinet and I can’t find the video I have a New Harbor Freight sandblasting cabinet that I’m about to put together I wanted it to be a vapor blast cabinet ? Can you help me out ? Thanks in advance.
Hi Gerald, These are the vapor blast build videos. I did things in steps and changed parts as I found the need for improvement. The first one will give you all the info on the main parts and each video that follows has some improvement to make it better. Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/4hoJ25zwLyA/v-deo.html Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/j1fkCO0DcL0/v-deo.html Part 3 - ua-cam.com/video/XQMAxHyTzko/v-deo.html Part 4 - ua-cam.com/video/wS9Tm34fxnw/v-deo.html Part 5 - ua-cam.com/video/rD0HQ7l5uvE/v-deo.html Part 6 - ua-cam.com/video/6NY5xjFUMRc/v-deo.html Part 7 - ua-cam.com/video/OuqL9xWJE48/v-deo.html Part 8 - ua-cam.com/video/4WWT7O3rxwU/v-deo.html Part 8 - ua-cam.com/video/Oxwbl7DZggw/v-deo.html Part 9 - ua-cam.com/video/oZTgCDl93Jo/v-deo.html
Victor thank you for taking the time to send me all the videos Victor I really appreciate it again thank you. Keep up the great work and great videos .
Hello, Thank you for commenting and info. I was unable to find agreement on whether or not the pinch bolts are stretch type like a factory cylinder head bolts or not like ARP bolts. I would imagine that Brembo doesn't want the public disassembling the calipers. In my case no leaks or problems of any kind on my daily driver since May 2021 so If I was to draw a conclusion from my own experience I would say they are not. If you have any documentation directly stating they are one time use from Brembo I would love to read it. Best of luck with your repairs :)
Hello Beach&BoardFan, Thank you for commenting, The VHT Clear is what I ended up using to give the calipers the protective coating and baked them according to the instructions to make them chemically resistant prior to installing them on the car. I did use the Sharkhide on the polished allen bolt heads, inner hardware, and crossover tube but the VHT would have also worked out the same. Best of luck with your project.
Helix, Rust-Oleum, VHT/Dupli-color and Eastwood all make High Temp Ceramic Clear Coats for Exhaust Manifolds that are good up to 2000°F... That may be overkill, but if racing it is probably not a bad idea, but typically the ones that say Engine Clear are still good for either 500°~650° which is probably just fine if you get the 650° or higher rated to 1200°...(some even Only 350°~385°, and Id probably just not even bother with them) but a clear in those should be fine too... A high temp CERAMIC 2k CLEAR with HARDENER will be the BEST OPTION for CALIPERS if your planning on just clearing over a polished metal, Almost mirror look, as they will hold up to the stone and rock debris... Many many years
Hello TNASI Tuning, I appreciate your detailed comment. My intention was the 2K clear but unfortunately, I was shipped a bad can of it and had to scramble to find a local supplier that had the VHT high temp clear paint. The calipers still look the same today as they did in the video. What didn't work well, probably due to the heat, is the Shark Skin product. The crossover pipe and bleeder valves I treated with it have some rust developing on them. Best of luck with your build!
Bonjour mon ami, J'ai utilisé 3 types au cours de cette vidéo de grenat grain 36 pour enlever la couche de poudre, puis de perles de verre grain 80 pour éliminer les rayures faites par le grenat grain 36 et d'un tamis US 170-325 pour le polissage final.
totally blown away how those calipers turned out - WOW
Hi UcantBeSerious03, thank you for the kind words. It was intimidated by this project but motivated by the results that others were getting from their Brembo restorations. I had to hunt for some time for the Brembo bolt torque specs that no one seems to provide and had a few staining issues. In the end, it was totally worth it. I'll do a follow-up video in a year or two to see how they are holding up.
Hit me up if you have any questions about any of the content.
Great video, very well done!!
Patient step by step process, and attention to detail.
Bought one of your blasting kits today, and am in process of converting my HF blasting cabinet.
Thank you for your hard work !!
James
Hi James, Thank you for your kind comments and supporting my work. I appreciate you very much. The HF conversion is an awesome project. The work you can put out is as good as good as the 10k systems out there.
Hit me up with any questions you might have.
Victor great job I appreciate the time you took to show everyone the process of doing it to the calibers and especially the 3-D printing of the bolts and stuff. Keep up the great work we love to see you do.
Hello Gerald, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. I find myself using my 3D printer to solve all kinds of problems. Everyone should learn to use it, it's a game changer.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbaredwhat vinyl printer and software do you use?
@@mikeklossner5105 Hi Mike, Thank you for commenting. I use a Circuit Maker and Circuit Design Space is the software that is used with it. The thing was designed for crafts but it can be used to cut out gaskets and all sorts of other things.
Thanks for the info and all the videos. Ypu Do a good job explaining and good content.
@@mikeklossner5105 Anytime, Mike, Thank you for the encouragement. I'm glad you are finding value in these videos for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your restoration :)
Wow! Excellent work! I haven't seen anyone do that Brembo etching until now. I really enjoy your channel. Can't wait for another video 🙂📸
Hello Falcon, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. The ability of the homemade wet system to mechanically etch and polish is very interesting to me. Hopefully new types of media will be developed to polish even further.
Best of luck with your projects!
Nice job! came out great!
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I'm unsure about the cost in today's prices but at the time I built mine it was about $500 not including the air compressor.
Impressive work! Great job.
Hello Level 7 Performance, Thank you for your kind comment. Vapor blasting is amazing. I highly recommend putting together a similar system to take your work to another level.
Best of luck with your projects!
Another beautiful job Victor… 👍🏻
Hello Robert, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. Vapor blasting is so cool. If I could fit my rims in the machine I would do them as well. Can't wait to see what you'll be doing with your own machine.
Best of luck with your builds!
Great content man! In the process of researching and building my own vapor blaster
Hello Hunting Explained, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. If you want a complete parts breakdown and detailed explanation check out my other videos. This one linked below has my original system. Watch the rest of them that have to do with my upgrades over time so you can see what worked and what I changed. Hopefully it will save you time and money.
ua-cam.com/video/4hoJ25zwLyA/v-deo.html
Best of luck with your build!
Hi, you are a very patient man. I have a large vapor blaster but it will not replace my dry-blaster to remove paint, rust or powder.
One thing to improve your work is a wire wheel. I blast all bolts for just a few seconds in the dry blaster with very fine grit and then run it over an 8 inch wire wheel and within seconds it will polish steel to a mirror finish. Yes it will, when pushing hard enough, remove Zink coating but I replate every bolt with a Nickel/Zink coating anyway.
Hello Bernhard List, Thank you for commenting. The powder coat removal is a real pain with the wet system. I'll have to get into dry blasting for these types of projects. The wire wheel suggestion is a great one that I didn't think about trying and probably would have done a better job on the big bolts. A channel subscriber has a plating kit they he offers. Picking one up will be next so I can learn how to use it.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared
Get a Nickel/Zink kit fir better rust protection than Zink only. I got mine from Gateros in England but in the US Caswell is the way to go. Also get a 20Amp powersupply with adjustable amperage for easier work.
My 8inch wire wheel is a great and fairly low price tool. Bolt shine up in seconds and the th
reads are perfectly clean too so you only need to re-thread them in case they are damaged.
If you want to see pictures my email is: bernhardlist@hotmail.com
Contact me and I send some.
You are an artist Sr.
Hi Luis, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I had been wanting to restore them for a few years but was intimidated by a project I hadn't done before. I learned a ton and the results exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend taking on big challenges, they will boost your confidence and experience.
Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent tutorial on the the rebuild. Your little 3D printed items and process to remove the pistons is great, you should sell a little kit. Having rebuilt these very calipers myself in the past, it can be a PITA getting the pistons out, and messy.
Hello Chest, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Yeah, my off camera attempts at removing the pistons were ugly. Getting them to pop out past the seals along with their boots is the ticket. I'll look into putting a kit together for it.
Best of luck with your restorations.
@@vbared Thanks. I'm pretty sure those Brembos fit other model vehicles or are so similar that those fittings you made will work on most if not all Brembos.
This is so cool. Great work
Hello Avery, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm still amazed myself every time I look at them on the car.
Best of luck with your restorations.
Это великолепно! Внимание к деталям и открытый, честный опыт восхищают.
Привет друг, спасибо за комментарий и поддержку. Я рад, что вы нашли время, потраченное на это видео, с пользой для вас.
Желаю удачи в ваших реставрационных проектах :)
Thank you for taking the time to put together such a detailed overview. Have you any idea what kind of maintenance will be required to keep the metal finish looking that good?
I have a small metal zinc plating kit which would have been perfect for the small brackets and also the bolts. You should look into getting something, then you will have everything you need. That was a first-class job!
Hello Speedtripper, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. Time will tell on the longevity of this new finish. I'm hoping the VHT caliper clearcoat will hold up in protecting the aluminum from oxidation. If it doesn't and they need to be redone I won't have to deal with the powder coat removal, that part was the worst. I can knock off painted clear coat real fast with the 36 grit garnet.
Please send me the link to your plating kit. I've been interested in learning how to do it.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I am not selling any zinc-plating kits. I'm based in South Africa and purchased something locally. I have seen kits available in the States. I am in the process of restoring a Honda RC51 and it is a totally pleasure to be able to refurbish all the fasteners and brackets in my garage. All you need is the silver, yellow/gold and black passivates and you are good to go. There is not a fastener on the bike that I can't re-plate to near factory finish. I watch all your uploads and enjoy your commentary. The "gangster accent" is a welcome bonus! :-)
Give Cerakote MC-5100 a try. You can apply it with a sprayer or even a shop towel. It's very hydrophobic and easy to clean. The etch on your calipers looks great, and under a coating like that, the logos will flip-flop from grey to a very intense white.
Hi friend, thank you for the heads up on the Cerakote MC-5100. The Shark Skin I used in the video didn't hold up to the heat but thankfully the clear coat paint has held up, the calipers still look great today.
Best of luck with your projects.
@@vbared You're welcome. Thank you for posting the Vapor Blasting videos. I hire a local to vapor blast customer parts, and then Cerakote them. We use Glacier Silver to match cast iron with vapor blasted aluminum. Justin Voss on UA-cam referenced me to Sharkhide on his Nautical Star video. We use that stuff when something is too big to powdercoat.
On parts that require ZERO medium left on them I use bicarbonate of soda as my blast medium
It does an excellent job test it on a soda pop can if you want
Once I have blasted everything I merely wash the parts off under running water as bicarb dissolves in water
Hi Eugene, Thank you for commenting and suggestion. Baking soda is an excellent cleaning media to use if the original powder coating could have been saved.
Very nice work ❤❤❤❤
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
would it be a good idea to thread chaser on the bolts? maybe even tap the holes.
to get rid of old loctite
Hi Azim, Thank you for commenting and suggestion, it's a good one and something I should have thought about. I did clean up the bolt threads with solvent but didn't chase the threads on the caliper housings. Hopefully, I won't have to pull them apart anytime soon. The finish still looks amazing after all these years. The one thing that didn't hold up was the Sharkskin. It can't handle the heat from the calipers and burns off.
That is a good table to put a descent vise on then 66 foot pounds of torque nice video
Hi Jeremy, Thank you for commenting and torque info. Yeah, the vise setup was temporary since I was renting the house. The vise is now properly bolted to a heavy wooden work bench.
Best of luck with your repairs!
Mite have been ARP type fastener lube on them 12mm allen bolts. Does look like anti seize, or moly lube
Hi JayJay, Thank you for commenting and information. Yeah, it could have been that as well, hard to tell. I just know that dissimilar unlubricated metals will corrode, seize up, and can damage threads during removal. I can report that since making the video the calipers themselves look just as good and working like before. The only thing I would do differently is use the high temp clear coat on the stainless crossover tube instead of the Shark Skin. That stuff baked off and offered no rust protection.
Thank you for all the great info.
We are thinking of buying a vapor blaster for our small machine shop.
Do you think the paint protective vinyl would work on a regular dry sand blaster?
The 9"x14.75" glass panels we use now last a while but eventually get pitted by the media.
We use glass bead and aluminum oxide for media.
Thanks again for the great videos on this subject.
P.S I'm going to buy a small 12"x6" roll and try it out.
Hi Ed, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, the vinyl sheet should also work for dry blasting since it's designed to protect the automotive paint from sand and small rocks that hit it at 60mph.
@@vbared Thank you!
Flawless restoration on then calipers Victor. Just wondering if you’re going to do another video/release on the v3 3d print nozzle?
Hello Richard, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. I'm planning a video on more testing with V3 printed with PETG along with 8 and 9mm tips that are 70mm long. Daily wet weather over the last couple of weeks has kept me away from the shop (no climate control). Once things dry up a bit I'll be back at it. Thank you for your patience.
Stay tuned more coming on V3.
@@vbared excited to hear it! Keep up the great work.
Hey Victor, another nice job. I really like what you've done and what you do. Just a little bit curious about the flair nuts. I have seen flair nut wrench jaws actually spread some as the nuts are just so seized in position. Probably has to do with all the flair surface's. Any way, I did not notice you use any anti-seize on the flair nuts. Any thoughts on that..? Keep up the good work !
Hello Mark, Thank you for commenting. I agree 100% with you that even a flare nut wrench may not always work to remove stubborn nuts. I intended to get across that the chances are best when the most suitable tool for the task is used. Many of the troubles I've experienced could've been avoided had I used the best tool for the job. Great catch on the lack of anti-seize on the flare nuts after I preached about the importance of using it with dissimilar metals. I was worried about contaminating the brake fluid with the anti-seize and the seal not being made properly. Let me know how the anti-seize on the brake line flare nut has worked for you. I learn new things from asking and watching what others do so picking up new tips is always welcome.
Best of luck with your builds!
@@vbared Some times we get so eager to assemble I have overlooked the wonderful stuff "anti-seize". I do think that a little is better than none. With that said, use it sparingly maybe with an acid brush, or some type of small applicator and be careful not to get it in the end of the flair,{tube). Hopefully down the road when someone is doing some maintenance there job will go smoother and they may even have some appreciations for someone else's for thought and then apply a little of the wonderful stuff as well for someone else to appreciate.
Hello Mark, I do need to get some kind of a small applicator for the anti-seize lube. I had a hell of a time trying to figure out how to torque those flare nuts to spec. Crow's foot flare nut wrench and an inch pounds torque wrench with a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor to get 124 inch pounds on that crossover line is what worked for me.
What the smallest grit you can go with your cabinet set up. I have old aluminum crankcase cover, aluminum oxide #80 does not do it. Amazon does not have anything smaller or it is really expensive.
Hello Michal, Thank you for commenting. I use two stages of grits for polishing anything larger than a push mower carburetor. If it's a small part the extra fine glass bead media will yield great results. Larger pieces valve covers and calipers need two stages one to strip it clean (80 grit glass bead) and one to polish (extra fine glass bead). Trying to do the large part with extra fine glass bead only will result in a uneven blotchy finish.
80 grit glass bead from Harbor Freight - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html
170 - 325 US Sieve (aka Extra Fine Glass Bead Media) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13
Best of luck!
@@vbared what is your air pressure when working with 80#?
Hello Michal, 50-55 psi is the pressure I stay at.
Also I was looking at your videos to find the one where you turn your blasting cabinet into a vapor cabinet and I can’t find the video I have a New Harbor Freight sandblasting cabinet that I’m about to put together I wanted it to be a vapor blast cabinet ? Can you help me out ? Thanks in advance.
Hi Gerald, These are the vapor blast build videos. I did things in steps and changed parts as I found the need for improvement. The first one will give you all the info on the main parts and each video that follows has some improvement to make it better.
Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/4hoJ25zwLyA/v-deo.html
Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/j1fkCO0DcL0/v-deo.html
Part 3 - ua-cam.com/video/XQMAxHyTzko/v-deo.html
Part 4 - ua-cam.com/video/wS9Tm34fxnw/v-deo.html
Part 5 - ua-cam.com/video/rD0HQ7l5uvE/v-deo.html
Part 6 - ua-cam.com/video/6NY5xjFUMRc/v-deo.html
Part 7 - ua-cam.com/video/OuqL9xWJE48/v-deo.html
Part 8 - ua-cam.com/video/4WWT7O3rxwU/v-deo.html
Part 8 - ua-cam.com/video/Oxwbl7DZggw/v-deo.html
Part 9 - ua-cam.com/video/oZTgCDl93Jo/v-deo.html
Victor thank you for taking the time to send me all the videos Victor I really appreciate it again thank you. Keep up the great work and great videos .
@@geraldfiorello6231 Anytime Gerald.
I'm amazed the pressure didn't blow off the vinylright away.
Yeah, I was worried about that as well so I made sure to use a vinyl brand with strong adhesive.
Lots of work, but the results paid off. I maybe would have applied some paint in the logos, maybe the same red that was on there originally.
Yeah, painting the textured logo red would've looked great. Thank you for commenting :)
The calliper cap screw bolts are one time use, never re-use
Hello, Thank you for commenting and info. I was unable to find agreement on whether or not the pinch bolts are stretch type like a factory cylinder head bolts or not like ARP bolts. I would imagine that Brembo doesn't want the public disassembling the calipers. In my case no leaks or problems of any kind on my daily driver since May 2021 so If I was to draw a conclusion from my own experience I would say they are not.
If you have any documentation directly stating they are one time use from Brembo I would love to read it.
Best of luck with your repairs :)
Did you use the sharkhide then or just the vht clear?
Hello Beach&BoardFan, Thank you for commenting, The VHT Clear is what I ended up using to give the calipers the protective coating and baked them according to the instructions to make them chemically resistant prior to installing them on the car. I did use the Sharkhide on the polished allen bolt heads, inner hardware, and crossover tube but the VHT would have also worked out the same.
Best of luck with your project.
Hallo,Awesome, I'm following you.
Hello Friend, Welcome to the channel!
Can I get your email or Facebook?
@@วรพลสารสืบ Hello, please email me at vbared@gmail.com.
Why do they call it "VAPOR" blasting when there is no vapor? just cold water added to sand blasting. Am I missing something?
The name Vapor Blasting was coined by Vapor Honing Technologies, wet media blasting is more accurate.
Helix, Rust-Oleum, VHT/Dupli-color and Eastwood all make High Temp Ceramic Clear Coats for Exhaust Manifolds that are good up to 2000°F... That may be overkill, but if racing it is probably not a bad idea, but typically the ones that say Engine Clear are still good for either 500°~650° which is probably just fine if you get the 650° or higher rated to 1200°...(some even Only 350°~385°, and Id probably just not even bother with them) but a clear in those should be fine too... A high temp CERAMIC 2k CLEAR with HARDENER will be the BEST OPTION for CALIPERS if your planning on just clearing over a polished metal, Almost mirror look, as they will hold up to the stone and rock debris... Many many years
YES! Exactly! at the 1:18:45 mark, I C you did use the VHT 900°>>> that should be PLENTY! Vedy Good!
Hello TNASI Tuning, I appreciate your detailed comment. My intention was the 2K clear but unfortunately, I was shipped a bad can of it and had to scramble to find a local supplier that had the VHT high temp clear paint. The calipers still look the same today as they did in the video. What didn't work well, probably due to the heat, is the Shark Skin product. The crossover pipe and bleeder valves I treated with it have some rust developing on them.
Best of luck with your build!
How much was your blasting machine?
It was around $500 at the time I put my system together.
Bonjour quel est le diamètre des billes de verre ?
Bonjour mon ami,
J'ai utilisé 3 types au cours de cette vidéo de grenat grain 36 pour enlever la couche de poudre, puis de perles de verre grain 80 pour éliminer les rayures faites par le grenat grain 36 et d'un tamis US 170-325 pour le polissage final.
Is there any way you could sell me a kit of those 3d printed items!
Hello Eric, Thank you for commenting. Please email me vbared@gmail.com your shipping information so I can quote the parts plus shipping.