@@wayneschmidt490 Hello, Since you have disabled the comments on the following video ua-cam.com/video/jF1SbMU6FLM/v-deo.html there was no other way to reach you therefore excuse me for intervening in this comment thread. You may consider watching this two parts video series here that may answer some of your questions presented of your excellent video above: ua-cam.com/video/Tc5bvgNTWME/v-deo.html (part 1) ua-cam.com/video/Cw9X59yiKzs/v-deo.html (part 2) (please read also descriptions of these videos) Note: the magnet shown in this timestamp of your ferrocell video ua-cam.com/video/jF1SbMU6FLM/v-deo.html , the two poles of the magnet indicated are not up down but actually located left to right. So the field shown of the magnet by the ferrolens is correct and complies with the familiar classical field shown by the iron filings experiment . But you are right, the problem arises from the lines shown on the ferrocell all else called ferrolens that are perpendicular to the the N-S axis of the magnet. This is because the 2D imprint on the ferrocell (or else called ferrolens in academia) of the actual 3D magnetic field in space. The presented two parts video series above I hope will shed some light on the confusion created about the ferrocell display of magnetic fields and actually has a logical and simple explanation. I believe you will be amazed after realizing what the ferrolens displays and how the 3D magnetic field is interpreted on the ferrolens 2D surface or vice versa. Again, sorry for my interruption here. Kind Regards, Emmanouil p.s.1 you have an excellent engineering channel. Congratulations! p.s.2 In the video series above it is mentioned that the ferrocell shows the quantum field of the magnet. This actually means that the ferrolens shows and projects to the outside spatially magnified , the field inside the magnet's bulk material. This so called quantum field is actually more or less the same with the classical familiar N-S outside on air, field of a magnet but as known to science and reported in literature, has more curl and vorticity on its lines. This is perfectly shown by the ferrolens. Also for more info on the subject you may consider this page here: en.everybodywiki.com/Ferrolens
Holy moly! How many of these machines require offset tweezers to thread? To think these were for home use is mind boggling! Seriously, their beauty and functioning makes every effort so worth it!
We have another machine that does the same thing, but produces a lockstitch instead of a chain stitch: The Eldridge Two Spool. Here's her video: ua-cam.com/video/vyX2hayYxr0/v-deo.html Personally, I prefer the flowing elegance of the Grover and Baker, but the Two Spool is still an interesting machine. Again, thanks for commenting!
Fantastic, I do like how you pack so much info into such a short video. In the past I have added a lead washer on top of some of my sewing machine spools and a felt pad underneath to reduce the snatch on the spool, there is nothing worse than a loop of thread bouncing off and wrapping around the spool pin ;-)) well there are other things worse I am sure. Thanks for taking the time to do this for us.
That is absolutely beautiful! I watched some of your nickel plating videos, which is what brought me here. How were you able to do the plating halfway across the arms? Do they detach at that point? Or did you mask it in some way?
These arms weren't nickel plated. I simply polished them with increasingly fine sandpapers, ended with 12,000 grit, and then went over them with autosol, a chrome fine scratch remover and polish. Cast iron polishes up surprisingly bright and such a smooth finish is also resistant to corrosion. Thanks for the comment!
@@wayneschmidt490 *proceeds to take notes* Wayne, you have no idea how much i respect you and your work. I love your videos. Also this sewing machine definitely reminds me of some sort of cat - either wild or a housecat. Beautiful!
Hi, Donna! Great to hear from you again. I'm glad you liked her. No, this stitch doesn't unravel. There is nothing special you have to do after sewing a stitch to tie it off. Just cut the threads close to the fabric and you're done. One interesting fact that prevented these machines from becoming more popular is that they used 3 times as much thread as a lock stitch. This doesn't sound like a big deal, but back in 1869 a single small spool of thread could cost a day's wages. She was an expensive machine to use. Kind of like today's printers. The printer is cheap but you can go broke keeping it supplied with ink. By the way, her name is Madeline Emily May. Thanks for writing!
Thank you for your comment! She's 151 years old so it's not surprising that she isn't the smoothest machine to crank. There's a slight binding once every rotation that seems to get worse if she isn't thoroughly oiled. But, there's something about her that just makes her fun to sew on. One tricky problem is adjusting the tension. It's very easy to get it too tight, which results is the fabric getting gathered a little.
I am looking for the silver plate that covers the bobbin area. I have the 1863 Grover Baker Chainstitch machine. Also how long should the belt be for it to go down to the pedal on the floor of the cabinet. When I received it from a 90 year old friend who said it belonged to her mother and grandmother. she gave it to me to take care of it. It was in her wet basement. I have since restored it and all the parts move. I have watched you video and want to hand it down to my Granddaughter and show her how it works. Beautiful antique. But I need to find the part.
Dear Marilyn, Finding replacement parts for Grover and Baker sewing machines is extremely difficult. Repeated searches on Ebay may turn up someone selling a set of spare parts, but this may take years before one turns up that has the cover you need. A faster but considerably more expensive alternative is to look for a machine for sale that's in such poor condition it's being sold for parts. Grover and Bakers are so desirable that these are few and far between and can be very expensive. The quickest and cheapest solution is to make a new slide cover yourself. Hardware stores often carry steel stock in various sizes in the hardware department, which can be cut and polished into a replacement. Aluminum will also work and be easier to shape. Craft stores, like Hobby Lobby, and hobby shops often carry small sheets of brass and aluminum, which be formed into what you need. In a pinch, a piece of solid cardboard, not the corrugated stuff, can be cut to shape and used, as could a sheet off stiff plastic. I can't advise you on how long the leather belt needs to be on your machine Ours uses a hand crank system. But, I can tell you that the round leather belt material is inexpensive and can be purchased from Amazon.com. Its comes in 6-foot lengths and is simply cut to fit and the ends connected with the supplied metal staple. www.amazon.com/Leather-Antique-Treadle-Singer-Machine/dp/B07BJZRT7W/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=antique+sewing+machine+leather+belt&qid=1612545535&sr=8-3 I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck with your machine. It's one of the most collectable antique sewing machines available and well worth any effort put into it. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Thank you for your help. Do you know what the needle length is. I know it is a curved needle. We have a great sewing machine shop where I can get the belt so I will get it there.
@@marilynrice1776 The needle on ours in 1.64 inches long with a 0.043 inch diameter shank. The curve follows a circle with a 7.5 inch radius. Curved needles are available on-line or you can make them yourself if you have a straight needle the right length and diameter. Bending needles almost always breaks them because they are heat treated so hard they're very brittle. To bend one, start by using pliers to hold the needle and heat it to glowing red in the flame on your range. Then very slowly lift the needle upward so it stays in the heat of the flame to let it cool very slowly. Once it's cool to the touch, very gently bend it to shape. Then reheat it and once it's red, quickly plunge it into water to re-harden it. I've done this several times and it works reliably. I hope this helps. If you like antique sewing machines and would like to see my other videos about our collection, please click on the following link: ua-cam.com/play/PLEnCVl0LWmYfasxI2p2mcDF0YauzDkwYY.html
So it turns out that I'm one of the "unsuspecting" that spent a week or two hoping that penetrating oil and heat would help me unscrew the pivot cones. :-) I eventually gave up, and cleaned them as best I could without removing -- I have no plans to repaint, so it wasn't critical that they come out. But now that I know they're not threaded, do you have any tips on how to apply pressure in the right direction to get those pivots out? There's not a lot of purchase area to get a grip on. And it seems like giving them a twist would still be the right approach to get them going. Any tips would be most welcome.
I eventually resorted to grabbing them with large pliers and twisting them back and forth until they came out. Even though the pliers were padded, the jaws still cut cut up the metal, so it had to be reground and polished. If I had to do it again, I'd place a piece of wood against the end and tap it loose with a hammer. Tapping one cone inward would transfer the motion through the sewing arm to the opposite cone and hopefully push it out without breaking anything. Then I'd reverse and tap in the cone in that was pushed out and repeat this several times back and forth until the cones were loose enough to pull out. If you think this is bad, many machines have left-handed screws with no indication that's what they are. I can't count the number I've stripped or broken because I turned them the wrong way. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 Thanks -- I guess it stands to reason, but it's nice to hear it confirmed that the pieces are cylindrical, and aren't encumbered in some way to keep them from moving in both directions. Tapping sounds like a good plan, though of course if the near side "gave", and the far side didn't, you'd now have a too-tight bearing, with not a lot of recourse for loosening it. Yuk. I think I'm happy I decided to clean it up without that final bit of disassembly!
What a fascinating and beautiful machine! You have done a wonderful and meticulous restoration - as always. Thanks so much for sharing.
You are very welcome and thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490
Hello,
Since you have disabled the comments on the following video ua-cam.com/video/jF1SbMU6FLM/v-deo.html there was no other way to reach you therefore excuse me for intervening in this comment thread. You may consider watching this two parts video series here that may answer some of your questions presented of your excellent video above:
ua-cam.com/video/Tc5bvgNTWME/v-deo.html (part 1)
ua-cam.com/video/Cw9X59yiKzs/v-deo.html (part 2)
(please read also descriptions of these videos)
Note: the magnet shown in this timestamp of your ferrocell video ua-cam.com/video/jF1SbMU6FLM/v-deo.html , the two poles of the magnet indicated are not up down but actually located left to right. So the field shown of the magnet by the ferrolens is correct and complies with the familiar classical field shown by the iron filings experiment . But you are right, the problem arises from the lines shown on the ferrocell all else called ferrolens that are perpendicular to the the N-S axis of the magnet.
This is because the 2D imprint on the ferrocell (or else called ferrolens in academia) of the actual 3D magnetic field in space. The presented two parts video series above I hope will shed some light on the confusion created about the ferrocell display of magnetic fields and actually has a logical and simple explanation. I believe you will be amazed after realizing what the ferrolens displays and how the 3D magnetic field is interpreted on the ferrolens 2D surface or vice versa.
Again, sorry for my interruption here.
Kind Regards,
Emmanouil
p.s.1 you have an excellent engineering channel. Congratulations!
p.s.2 In the video series above it is mentioned that the ferrocell shows the quantum field of the magnet. This actually means that the ferrolens shows and projects to the outside spatially magnified , the field inside the magnet's bulk material. This so called quantum field is actually more or less the same with the classical familiar N-S outside on air, field of a magnet but as known to science and reported in literature, has more curl and vorticity on its lines. This is perfectly shown by the ferrolens. Also for more info on the subject you may consider this page here: en.everybodywiki.com/Ferrolens
Holy moly! How many of these machines require offset tweezers to thread? To think these were for home use is mind boggling!
Seriously, their beauty and functioning makes every effort so worth it!
Yes. She's a bit of a challenge to thread. Thankfully her looks makes up for it.
Most amazing thing that I find about this machine is that there is no need to wind a bobbin, but regular spool can be used for bottom thread.
We have another machine that does the same thing, but produces a lockstitch instead of a chain stitch: The Eldridge Two Spool. Here's her video:
ua-cam.com/video/vyX2hayYxr0/v-deo.html
Personally, I prefer the flowing elegance of the Grover and Baker, but the Two Spool is still an interesting machine. Again, thanks for commenting!
Fantastic, I do like how you pack so much info into such a short video.
In the past I have added a lead washer on top of some of my sewing machine spools and a felt pad underneath to reduce the snatch on the spool, there is nothing worse than a loop of thread bouncing off and wrapping around the spool pin ;-)) well there are other things worse I am sure.
Thanks for taking the time to do this for us.
Thank you for commenting!
Very nice.
Thank you!
That is absolutely beautiful! I watched some of your nickel plating videos, which is what brought me here. How were you able to do the plating halfway across the arms? Do they detach at that point? Or did you mask it in some way?
These arms weren't nickel plated. I simply polished them with increasingly fine sandpapers, ended with 12,000 grit, and then went over them with autosol, a chrome fine scratch remover and polish. Cast iron polishes up surprisingly bright and such a smooth finish is also resistant to corrosion. Thanks for the comment!
@@wayneschmidt490 *proceeds to take notes*
Wayne, you have no idea how much i respect you and your work. I love your videos. Also this sewing machine definitely reminds me of some sort of cat - either wild or a housecat. Beautiful!
Thank you!
Yet another beautiful restoration! Will a double chain stitch easily unravel, like a single chain stitch does?
Hi, Donna! Great to hear from you again. I'm glad you liked her. No, this stitch doesn't unravel. There is nothing special you have to do after sewing a stitch to tie it off. Just cut the threads close to the fabric and you're done. One interesting fact that prevented these machines from becoming more popular is that they used 3 times as much thread as a lock stitch. This doesn't sound like a big deal, but back in 1869 a single small spool of thread could cost a day's wages. She was an expensive machine to use. Kind of like today's printers. The printer is cheap but you can go broke keeping it supplied with ink. By the way, her name is Madeline Emily May. Thanks for writing!
it is quite beautiful. how does it operate?
Thank you for your comment! She's 151 years old so it's not surprising that she isn't the smoothest machine to crank. There's a slight binding once every rotation that seems to get worse if she isn't thoroughly oiled. But, there's something about her that just makes her fun to sew on. One tricky problem is adjusting the tension. It's very easy to get it too tight, which results is the fabric getting gathered a little.
I am looking for the silver plate that covers the bobbin area. I have the 1863 Grover Baker Chainstitch machine. Also how long should the belt be for it to go down to the pedal on the floor of the cabinet. When I received it from a 90 year old friend who said it belonged to her mother and grandmother. she gave it to me to take care of it. It was in her wet basement. I have since restored it and all the parts move. I have watched you video and want to hand it down to my Granddaughter and show her how it works. Beautiful antique. But I need to find the part.
Dear Marilyn,
Finding replacement parts for Grover and Baker sewing machines is extremely difficult. Repeated searches on Ebay may turn up someone selling a set of spare parts, but this may take years before one turns up that has the cover you need. A faster but considerably more expensive alternative is to look for a machine for sale that's in such poor condition it's being sold for parts. Grover and Bakers are so desirable that these are few and far between and can be very expensive. The quickest and cheapest solution is to make a new slide cover yourself. Hardware stores often carry steel stock in various sizes in the hardware department, which can be cut and polished into a replacement. Aluminum will also work and be easier to shape. Craft stores, like Hobby Lobby, and hobby shops often carry small sheets of brass and aluminum, which be formed into what you need. In a pinch, a piece of solid cardboard, not the corrugated stuff, can be cut to shape and used, as could a sheet off stiff plastic.
I can't advise you on how long the leather belt needs to be on your machine Ours uses a hand crank system. But, I can tell you that the round leather belt material is inexpensive and can be purchased from Amazon.com. Its comes in 6-foot lengths and is simply cut to fit and the ends connected with the supplied metal staple.
www.amazon.com/Leather-Antique-Treadle-Singer-Machine/dp/B07BJZRT7W/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=antique+sewing+machine+leather+belt&qid=1612545535&sr=8-3
I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck with your machine. It's one of the most collectable antique sewing machines available and well worth any effort put into it. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Thank you for your help. Do you know what the needle length is. I know it is a curved needle. We have a great sewing machine shop where I can get the belt so I will get it there.
@@marilynrice1776 The needle on ours in 1.64 inches long with a 0.043 inch diameter shank. The curve follows a circle with a 7.5 inch radius. Curved needles are available on-line or you can make them yourself if you have a straight needle the right length and diameter. Bending needles almost always breaks them because they are heat treated so hard they're very brittle. To bend one, start by using pliers to hold the needle and heat it to glowing red in the flame on your range. Then very slowly lift the needle upward so it stays in the heat of the flame to let it cool very slowly. Once it's cool to the touch, very gently bend it to shape. Then reheat it and once it's red, quickly plunge it into water to re-harden it. I've done this several times and it works reliably. I hope this helps.
If you like antique sewing machines and would like to see my other videos about our collection, please click on the following link:
ua-cam.com/play/PLEnCVl0LWmYfasxI2p2mcDF0YauzDkwYY.html
So it turns out that I'm one of the "unsuspecting" that spent a week or two hoping that penetrating oil and heat would help me unscrew the pivot cones. :-) I eventually gave up, and cleaned them as best I could without removing -- I have no plans to repaint, so it wasn't critical that they come out. But now that I know they're not threaded, do you have any tips on how to apply pressure in the right direction to get those pivots out? There's not a lot of purchase area to get a grip on. And it seems like giving them a twist would still be the right approach to get them going. Any tips would be most welcome.
I eventually resorted to grabbing them with large pliers and twisting them back and forth until they came out. Even though the pliers were padded, the jaws still cut cut up the metal, so it had to be reground and polished. If I had to do it again, I'd place a piece of wood against the end and tap it loose with a hammer. Tapping one cone inward would transfer the motion through the sewing arm to the opposite cone and hopefully push it out without breaking anything. Then I'd reverse and tap in the cone in that was pushed out and repeat this several times back and forth until the cones were loose enough to pull out. If you think this is bad, many machines have left-handed screws with no indication that's what they are. I can't count the number I've stripped or broken because I turned them the wrong way. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 Thanks -- I guess it stands to reason, but it's nice to hear it confirmed that the pieces are cylindrical, and aren't encumbered in some way to keep them from moving in both directions. Tapping sounds like a good plan, though of course if the near side "gave", and the far side didn't, you'd now have a too-tight bearing, with not a lot of recourse for loosening it. Yuk. I think I'm happy I decided to clean it up without that final bit of disassembly!