Making Topwater Lures, Weight and Balance
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- Опубліковано 18 січ 2019
- If you make your own topwater lures and you want to know how to make a walk-the-dog lure as apposed to a glide lure, watch this video. I get a little academic but, stick it out, the information will be useful to you every time you make a new lure.
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*Altogether a well made lure **enjoyable.fishing** recommend it’s the skirt seems to stay on well and the whole thing is bigger than I thought it would be. The 2 metal have a nice plating on them as well.*
It's been a long while since I've watched this video, so I watched it again today as a refresher in anticipation of the Master Class.
I wish you can keep making content on this particular subject. To me , it is very interesting. I d like to see something also about all the other movements of a lure, and how we can adjust the making process so that we can emphasize certain characteristics. Great content as always
I love the topic too. And I plan to do more on the dynamics of motion for crankbaits etc. Thanks for the input, cheers.
I like the tip on using the paper cutout.
wow, that dart analogy really worked! you're the professor I never had.
I'm an airbrush artist looking to start my own lures..... This was very informative. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great channel, nice work @airbrushways6710
On a lazy Sunday evening, nothing better than binging on the engineer!!! Thanks for all your teaching, I’ve learned A LOT from you my friend!!
Thanks for watching..and the kind words.
I found this video really helped me to make my wooden fishing lures, thanks for sharing
This is the most informative video iv seen on cg manipulation in a lure.. great work, so glad i just found ur channel
Thank you. ..share the channel with your friends I'm trying to build it to where we can do bigger things.
Useful, like always!
Best lure making channel on UA-cam brilliant!
Very thanks. This video is really helpful.
That's kind of video makes youtube worth it. Pure knowledge, apparentely from common people ....and sharing it. Thank you. You just taught us in a very easy way
I appreciate that!
Thanks! Makes total sense
Wish I'd found your channel at the beginning of the pandemic when I took up lure making. Fortunately, a lot of this is common sense and basic physics so my lures turned out pretty well (for a newbie). I'm looking forward to checking out your other videos for more advanced tips as it seems we're going into a second lockdown over here in Southeast Asia, soooo it looks like I'm back to carving lures again instead of casting them. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you and best of luck...stay safe.
Great video. Very informative. Keep up the good work
Thanks
*Fun little bait great for ponds. This thing casts really well for its size, I was surprised. Good for when you need to downsize and gets smaller fish to commit*
Great video.
Thanks from Switzerland
Thank you for watching. ..
Man u have taught me so much since I have found your channel..so much appreciated...
Glad to hear it...thank you.
Thanks so much for this great details and insight much appreciated ;)
Thanks for watching
Absolutely a mint video!!!! Give the people what they want…. More more more 😊
Excellent vid ,this is very helpfull thankyou .
Interesting as always - well done
Thank you
Hey mate, nice informative little clip. I've been making my own jigs for a while, but have only been having a crack at making hardbody lures for a few weeks now. So far i've tried working with both soft and hardwood timbers & molded plastic to form stickbaits and swim/glide baits, and the results have been encouraging! Videos like this really help to accelerate the learning curve and bypass the frustrations of trial & error, so cheers.
One important thing that you didn't mention, and i think is a very relevant and important point - when you balanced the cardboard lure profile, you said that this point was the centre of buoyancy(COB).....well, it kind of is. Sometimes....... but, no.... not really. What it ALWAYS is, is the centre of GRAVITY.
It is only the centre of buoyancy as well if - the entire lure body is made entirely of the same material, i.e. has a 100% consistent mass, or if not, the materials are the same density. A common example of contrasts is a solid timber lure vs hollow plastic. In the plastic model, the "other" material affecting and skewing the result is quite simply, air!
Being practical about it all, the hollow plastic lure will only be a significant ways off if the plastic skin thickness is really (REALLY) inconsistent. Ask me how i know this ;) lol.
Anyway, a better method to find the COB and COG is; .......
For COG, hold the lure across a rulers edge like a lure see-saw, the point where it is closest to balancing is near on your COG.
For COB, do the ALMOST the same, but instead, flip the lot upside down and underwater, i.e. use the edge of the ruler to hold the lure underwater. The point where the 'see-saw' is level is your COB.
cheers.
ps subbed
You're right, the center of buoyancy located the way I did is very specific to lures that have very close to perfect symmetry along the length and width. If you imagine taking cross-sections along the length of a lure, that piece of paper represents a cross-section in the center of the lure but as you approach the edges that cross section shape changes pretty dramatically, if there isn't a perfect symmetry that is. Almost no lure is so blocky as to be that symmetric. So what I'm doing is a simple quick way of getting very close to the center of buoyancy. Otherwise you would have to do tests in water and at that point you have other issues to contend with. To begin with you would need the lure...and with my technique you only need the template. Internal densities variations such as adding weight and voids for rattle chamber can make big differences it's true but, when you're doing engineering for something like lures, that are made by hand, sometimes you just got to generalize and get close. Thank you very much for your feedback, would love to hear if you have any suggestions for videos...And good luck with lure making.
It helps me a lot! Thank you, sir!
You are welcome!
nice explanation. I did only basic fluid-dynamics, but now I see there's always interesting stuff you can learn. :-) Mechanics the best!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I like to make handmade lures , thanks for this excellent information. very useful!!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video mate
Thanks bro
Nice video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
great explanation, thx.
Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff!
Thanks!
100th comment let’s go. Seriously tho this guy is so awesome, and as a bait maker, you can really appreciate him helping us skip the train and error stage
Thank you so much...super satisfying
to get feedback from fellow lure makers.
💡💡💡thanks for helping me connect the dots.......your capacity for explaining complex concepts without belaboring the point is notable....Thanks for the effort
Wow thanks. ..I'm always fighting the tendency to over complicate or over simplify explanations.
Your explanation reminded me of how the explanation of a very complex concept was handled in this YT video ( different subject and more complex but understandable) ua-cam.com/video/1VPfZ_XzisU/v-deo.html
Franco I have an idea for a lure. I would like to see your take on the hollow rubber surface lures that are becoming popular called LunkerHunt. There are frogs and spiders. The spiders are basically tarantula sized. They are super light. They are also hollow which I’d love to see you tackle.Thanks for listening and warm regards,from Cam of Ontario.
Brill what i have been looking for
Awesome and easy information my friend !!! I think it would be a very good idea to make a "Serie" with stuff like this.for all kinds of Lures with sinking Stickbaits, cast and retriew ect. Big Thumbs up for your nice Channel from me and i like to see more of this.
Thank you
Great info! God bless! God is good!
Make a deep water lurel video thanks
Just got to lure making after like 8 years. I've done it as a teenager and I have to say I made a few fine UL lures. Other maybe 60% of the lures were trash, to say the other part, they just didn't work.
I find those tiny ones much easier to do and I've got a great success on them on small streams and rivers.
Thanks for explanation.
Nothing like a a successful lure to keep you going...
Thank you for all your videos. I have a question not relevant to this one. It was about where you got the DC speed controller for the powder coating. Thank you for all your help and videos.
Here's a link: www.amazon.com/dp/B08MZZPB53?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_4WHD00EVDMQ0VW1Z5ME8
Learn something every time. So if I have a sub surface jerk bait that is nose heavy and I move the weights back toward the centre of drag I could make it start to glide more?
If you want a subsurface glide bait the principle is the same ...there could be some complications if the shape is unusual...
The best is to elongate the shape a bit and keep the center of gravity forward of the center of drag. trying to approach a thin teardrop shape, fat end forward, will get it done.
I’m getting ready to make my first two piece glide bait(single joint) I assumed I wanted each segment to sink slowly and remain level......are you saying I should slightly shift each weight toward front of each segment, or will that bind the joint?
Subsurface baits are slightly different. Weighting them the way I described in the video works well. But you can also shape the lure long and slender and have it Glide.
I wish you had been my highschool teacher 😌 lol..
I love your videos and explanations. I am trying make a large glide bait for musky. 7 or 8 inches. Ones that i purchase glide side to side nicely with the turn of the crank. Ones that i build just go straight. Sink tests on store bought ones appear to sink level. The shape is similar to the phantom lures. Do the techniques describe here still apply to large lures?
Absolutely, the size dose not change the basic dynamics. Sometimes you have to manipulate the center of drag forward so you can place the weight more forward to get the sink attitude level. Try making the wide point of the lure 1/3 back from the nose (both looking from the top and the side). Make the nose a bit pointy. Good luck.
Great video! Is there another way to create a swimming action on a lipless lure apart from tieing the eye on top?
The action I was demonstrating was the "walk the dog" action, not really a true swim action. A swimming action is induced by the lure, walking the dog is done by twitching the rod tip at the right tempo as you retrieve. Its not hard to get a swimming action from a lipless one piece lure. its all about inducing turbulent flow on the lure body.
Muy buen video de explicación lástima que no esté en español
Probably someone mentioned this, but the paper method of estimating center of buoyancy is way off. Two reasons:
It is a three dimentional object where the width and height vary as you move along it's length, these are not representable by a flat object (unless you have an oject a lot like a flat surfboard. Say you have a section of your paper that is .5 inches and a nearby section that is 1 inch. In your method the buoyancy would seem to only vary by a factor of 2, but these real answer is 4 since lathe turned shapes vary as to the square of their radius, not in comparison to the radius.
If the lure is a sinker, you have the above problem, but if it floats then there is the whole question of where the waterline is on the object and how that affects what parts of the plugs are buoyant and what the moments of those parts are. And when you pull on it, everything changes, though you nailed that part of the description really well. I now know what makes the lure is up to when it is walked like a dog.
Right. I think I mentioned in the video that an exact location is most easily found with a CAD program. And while I'm fully aware of the limitations of this method it is very surprising how close it actually brings you to the correct location of the center of buoyancy. When you use it a few times you get a feel for eyeballing an adjustment towards the thicker part of the lure. Only with lures that have parallel sides will this method work perfectly for. It also works for lures that are made on the lathe, no matter what the shape. You take the profile shape and balance that and you get the exact location. Try it.
Franco you are the man. I cannot find this kind of information anywhere else. I do have one question. For a standard lipped crankbait, would you recommend it being a little tail heavy for more action or would the front tie-on position and the lip design be a better option for this type of adjustment?
I think it's best to put weight near the center of rotation. For most lures thats about 20 to 25% back from the nose. This gives the tie on eye the most influence over the action.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks!
Greetings from Spain! I have just discovered your channel and I have found some really interesting and didactic videos. Thank you so much for sharing your expertese with the rest uf us. I am particularly interested on your video about "topwater lures weight and balance", but the sound in the video does not work. It works perfectly on the rest of the vedeos so I guess it has nothing to do with my computer. I would be really grateful if you could try to fix the problem so we can explore the world of topwater lure design following you advice. Thank you so much.
Welcome....I vacationed in Spain a few years ago. I loved it!!
Thanks for letting me know about the sound issue.
I checked the sound and it plays fine for me. If you still can't get sound watch this video...it has much of the same information
ua-cam.com/video/pAWniA45Drw/v-deo.html
@@EngineeredAnglerMost of the video is still mute when I try to watch it on my laptop but it works fine on my phone. Thanks so much for you quick answer. I have watched the video and i have to tell you it is really admirable the way you able to explain quite complex facts coding them in an understandable language to make them accesible to everyone. With all that info in our heads and eager to keep watching more of your stuff, my son and I are going to try and desing our first topwater lure. We are really excited about it. We will let you know if we are able to make it fly in the end.
Hi great instructional video. Now that I found the center of gravity, the correct level boyouancy, how can I found the correct place and weigth of the center of drag to make it swims when is retrieved, I no mean walking the dog, just retrieving it and it swims and/wiggle alone. I will appreciate your comment..thanks
Topwater lures are the simplest to manipulate with weight and balance. Swimbaits are much more complicated because the shape of the body can influence how, or even if, the bait will swim. It's very important that tow eye at the very front is placed in the right location. The next video on designing lures will explain this.
Hi there, is there a accurate ( mathematical) way to know the exact amount of weights needed to added into lures? ? Assuming aiming to make a 100g of stickbait, I can work out of total weight of the timber body, wires and hooks, cutout timber, foil and estimate the weight of layers of paint and epoxy resin, will the remaining weight of lead from the 100g be the weight to be added on? Many thanks
If you watch my videos on building lures from scratch you can see the method I use to establish how much weight to use. Here's a link to the latest :
ua-cam.com/video/lDmTgsNP85o/v-deo.html
Hello from Japan. I have a question about popper.
Can you tell me the best way of making big water splash?
I will make a tiny popper like a small ball (W×D×H 18mm×18mm×18mm).
I want to know the best shape and size of a popper's mouth.
And please let me know the best position of weight in a popper to make big water splash.
Isn’t the way you mensure buoyancy also the same as center of gravity, at least for the paper you measure with.
The paper doesn’t not take into consideration the height of the lure. Would that also have an affect on buoyancy?
On a lure that is made on the lathe this method is very accurate. On lures that are hand shaped, where the taper to the front is not the same as the taper to back, this method is not as accurate. I cover a different method on a few other lure builds.
What would happen to the lure action if you changed the position of the drag? Could you get an interesting action from having one side rough and one side smooth?
Asymmetric drag usually means the lure turns in the same direction on each tug of the line. But you can always experiment....
Hello,can i use microballons to epoxy resin instead of polyurethane resin???
Yes but the density will.
have you ever figured out how to adjust the diving depth of a crank bait? I guess its relation between speed, size of lip and center of gravity while CoG will mostly influence the movement under water say wiggle or less wiggle and CoB will influence stability say how horizontal the lure will run under water. However I would like to understand how to adjust diving depth since I want to make some crank baits for sea fishing.
I plan to do a full explanation of the dynamic forces involved in the action and diving characteristics of lipped crankbaits. Well, at least as full an explanation as I'm capable of...🙄. Video coming soon.
@@EngineeredAngler Exciting, can't wait for it!
This seems to apply to lures with a front attach point - what about line thru lures? Does the fact that the lure is being "pushed" vs "pulled" change how you would calculate the CoG/CoB/CoD and how it changes the action?
The force centers would all stay the same, more or less, but the action would change a little. The general tendency would stay the same though.
Do you do any private consultation on lure design? I've been scratching my head at a new design and am having trouble getting the lure to run right.
I don't really do formal consultations but I'm always happy give my two cents on lure designs. If you want you can email photos to EngineeredAngler@gmail.com.
And describe what you are trying to achieve and what is going wrong.
Can you make a video on the effects of having a single weight vs distributing the weight throughout the bait (with the same center of gravity)?
That's an interesting question, lots of variables, I can probably include it in an upcoming Q&A video...keep an eye out for it. Thanks.
@@EngineeredAngler Amazing, ill keep a look out! While we're on the subject of Q and A, things Ive always wondered include: What makes ckankbaits work? Especially lipped, but lipless aswell! Why do spinners blades spin? Why do spoons ( Abu Garcia Toby comes to mind) oscillate? Basically, im fascinated that inanimate objects act like fish just by pulling them through water, i guess!
i dont know why but for some reason a lot of your videos the intros has sound then the rest of the video has none or is so low u cant hear anything. which really sucks because you have some good content.I been using the captions to understand whats going on.
I haven't experienced that...? I'm not sure what it could be. I'll have to ask UA-cam support. Thank you for letting me know. Thank you for watching anyway.
@@EngineeredAngler yea no problem it's pretty weird cause your channel is the only channel it happens on.
Hello there..I love the channel & this video caught my attention because I'm just starting out building wooden lures by hand, and the thing that I'm having trouble with the most is where exactly to put weight at certain places. I've downloaded some E Books etc and have seen dozen of free lure building templates and am not getting too much info on this particular thing here..I'm in need of help here, so any help or advice or pointers, etc, anything, would be greatly appreciated..Thanks
Sincerely, Mike M.
Mike welcome to handmade lures. Most people struggle with weight and balance at first. There's certainly quite a bit of physics that can be explained and then simplified to get the weight and balance right. But as you progress and get experience and have some successful lures you'll start to get I feel for weight and balance. But, you need help now, right?. Here's the answer weight and balance depends a lot on the style of the lure you're making, if it's topwater things become a little simpler, if it's a crankbait with a lip they get a little more complicated, if it is a lipless crank then it gets even more complicated. I could give some general guidelines but I could probably help you more if you sent me a sketch or a photo with dimensions of the type of lure you're trying to make. I'll do what I can. And thank you for watching the video
Is it on my end or is the audio missing from this video?
I'll check
I have sound playing it on my cell
I’m getting sound right through the intro then no sound when it cuts back to you. So no sound from 47 seconds to 8:47. Then sound after that up to the end.
I just played it through and the sound was fine...🤔
@@EngineeredAngler I’ll try it on my desktop computer at home to see how it runs. I’ll let you know. Thanks!
hows that for f...in engineering?!🤓😎
Please subtitel sir..
You would like to see english subtitles?
Hey dud dont toc sow much
Thank you for the video. Helped me a lot.
Thank you for watching...