I like the outrigger. I've built four sailing canoes. my first build was a 17 footer that I rigged with scavenged junk, made stabilizers out of empty hawaiian punch bottles and made sails out of bedsheets. I sailed it from Tampa bay to miami about 400 miles before I sold it. ...I think your biggest problem is that the mast is so far forward that the wind is always pushing your bow downwind and you'll never get any windward motion that way. I use a sloop rig with my mast just slightly forward of center. this way my mainsail and jib sail balance each other. If I want to point to windward I just release the jibsheets and trim the main and the wind pushes my stern away which points my bow towards the wind and I get at least 15 degrees to windward without even steering and I didn't even have daggerboard or leeboards on that rig. The last one I built also had no leeboards and I sailed it over 200 miles. Now I'm working on one I've made entirely from scratch and I'm seriously thinking of doing the great loop in it which is a year long trip of around 5000 miles.
A trimaran configuration is very stable. Make the amas long and light using foam and fiberglass / epoxy. I like to rig both amas out of the water an inch or so when the canoe is level. Trampolines are great for balance in a breeze. The rudder needs to go aft for more authority and make it strong with in reason. Fiberglass canoes with a narrow beam are great for sail modifications. Great job and best of luck on the next build.
Thanks for the comments. After moving the rudder aft, the control is much better. Have not built the second outrigger yet, but it is in the works. I like the idea of balancing the outriggers slightly above the water and that's what I'll plan on doing.
That's great. Think light and strong. Running lines should be in reach and out of the way. You don't want to get entangled on capsize. I have always opted for a close hauled rig. In practice on narrow rivers your on a run or in irons.
@@ilyafaden1789 Hello, would like to know yer feed back tryna build an ama like his. I have 14'6" ft hobie kayak. should i extend plywood to 9 ft ama? from water line to the top edge of kayak is about 8 inches. have a pic via link to the right Tysm for your insight:) drive.google.com/file/d/1O3jNANJ7IuVuqlPQWwtjvTTmY89Dph-Y/view?usp=sharing
Why not put the outrigger on your non dominant paddle side and just paddle from the opposite side of the outrigger ? Think of doing this with my canoe. I don’t need an outrigger for sailing but I like the idea of having the extra support and will make diving from it fun…I think.
@@stard8jesse I imagine it will have some effect but I think if you keep the weight distributed to the main canoe hull it should be minimal. Just use the out rigger like a training wheel for big gusts or sudden waves.
I tested the one sided out rigger on my canoe yesterday. Steering didn’t seem to be affected and the position of my cross bars allowed me to paddle one in between them. I do think a slightly shorter paddle would be nice because I’m also having to dodge the sail lines. Maybe like a large area blade 56-57”. I also was able to steer with the paddle over the crossed bars which would eliminate a heavy/complex rudder. I’ll post the video in a few minutes so you can check it out.
I like the outrigger. I've built four sailing canoes. my first build was a 17 footer that I rigged with scavenged junk, made stabilizers out of empty hawaiian punch bottles and made sails out of bedsheets. I sailed it from Tampa bay to miami about 400 miles before I sold it. ...I think your biggest problem is that the mast is so far forward that the wind is always pushing your bow downwind and you'll never get any windward motion that way. I use a sloop rig with my mast just slightly forward of center. this way my mainsail and jib sail balance each other. If I want to point to windward I just release the jibsheets and trim the main and the wind pushes my stern away which points my bow towards the wind and I get at least 15 degrees to windward without even steering and I didn't even have daggerboard or leeboards on that rig.
The last one I built also had no leeboards and I sailed it over 200 miles. Now I'm working on one I've made entirely from scratch and I'm seriously thinking of doing the great loop in it which is a year long trip of around 5000 miles.
Nice try bud!
Thanks for posting your trials and errors
I am noodling on building something similar and appreciate your videos
A trimaran configuration is very stable. Make the amas long and light using foam and fiberglass / epoxy. I like to rig both amas out of the water an inch or so when the canoe is level. Trampolines are great for balance in a breeze. The rudder needs to go aft for more authority and make it strong with in reason. Fiberglass canoes with a narrow beam are great for sail modifications. Great job and best of luck on the next build.
Thanks for the comments. After moving the rudder aft, the control is much better. Have not built the second outrigger yet, but it is in the works. I like the idea of balancing the outriggers slightly above the water and that's what I'll plan on doing.
That's great. Think light and strong. Running lines should be in reach and out of the way. You don't want to get entangled on capsize. I have always opted for a close hauled rig. In practice on narrow rivers your on a run or in irons.
@@ilyafaden1789 Hello, would like to know yer feed back tryna build an ama like his. I have 14'6" ft hobie kayak. should i extend plywood to 9 ft ama? from water line to the top edge of kayak is about 8 inches. have a pic via link to the right Tysm for your insight:) drive.google.com/file/d/1O3jNANJ7IuVuqlPQWwtjvTTmY89Dph-Y/view?usp=sharing
Why not put the outrigger on your non dominant paddle side and just paddle from the opposite side of the outrigger ? Think of doing this with my canoe. I don’t need an outrigger for sailing but I like the idea of having the extra support and will make diving from it fun…I think.
I'll have to give it a try. Wonder how steering would be affected.
@@stard8jesse I imagine it will have some effect but I think if you keep the weight distributed to the main canoe hull it should be minimal. Just use the out rigger like a training wheel for big gusts or sudden waves.
I tested the one sided out rigger on my canoe yesterday. Steering didn’t seem to be affected and the position of my cross bars allowed me to paddle one in between them. I do think a slightly shorter paddle would be nice because I’m also having to dodge the sail lines. Maybe like a large area blade 56-57”. I also was able to steer with the paddle over the crossed bars which would eliminate a heavy/complex rudder. I’ll post the video in a few minutes so you can check it out.
👍I sailing flying outrigger.
Nice try bud!
Thanks for posting your trials and errors
I am noodling on building something similar and appreciate your videos