Need help locating the manufacture of the frame? One way you can determine the manufacturer of the door is to measure from the top of the door to the top of each hinge (which is typically 4-1/2" for commercial hinges) that way you can source the frame you need to repair. You can make your own by cutting down the center of the frame and I may post a video about that in the future. Here is a guide for you so top of door to top of hinge is... 7-3/8" ...Amweld, Republic, Steelcraft 4-7/8" ...Curries, 5-10-Equal, Mesker, Pioneer 6-5/8" ...CECO, 5-1/8"...Fenestra, 7-1/4" Kewanee These are for reference only as manufacturers and availability change in each state but its a good head start to locate what you need. Since you only need a small piece it could be in the scrap bin too answer is no unless you ask. Best of luck to you.
MY dad is AMAZING he has been running his own business for almost 11 years this guy is truly talented and amazing at his job this is because he loves it and decides to put his best effort into his work!
Thank you for checking out our new channel. UA-cam has given so much in the way of help on so many projects I would like to give back to the youtube community. I hope this will help. It isn't the easiest job but can be very beneficial in the right environment. Take care everyone.
I’ve been an Installation and HM Frame repair business 26 yrs.Good job..Good work. I have over the years veered away from plastic anchors and gone to Tap-Cons…they never work loose and pull out.
I have never had a warranty myself, but for any repairs if needed in the future the stainless steel fastener doesnt rust...even here in SALT Lake City. Tapcons are steel and prone to rusting in my eperience although less than the typical galvanized srews. I, in my preference only, dont like blue colored fasteners. I do use them however when installing continuous hinges on filled jambs where a cover is present and the self drilling screws will mushroom out the frame if not predrileld and cause it to wobble loose over time. I will predrill and use a small cocrete drill to allow proper securement of the fastener. Thanks for commenting.
There is a fastener from Power Fastener company that hammers in has a round head, no threads, but a bend in the center. I use these on anything that flexes like ramp thresholds, top plates for edge mount docks. Everything else leaves a bolt head or over time will work loose. Its like a hump back rivet lol.
Liked it. Thanks. Stainless steel is no longer expensive. Jamb makers can make in stainless if they can make a kitchen sink in stainless. For part repair like this, I'd always use resin paste over cement.
Been doing doors for over 30 years now and in my experience Stainless steel is so expensive to brake and weld... they'll use fiberglass instead. Ive only seen stainless doors on a restaurants anyway. Like a super model really nice to look at but functionality?? Eh.
Thanks for the detailed information on how to go about this. This is WAY easier than replacing the whole frame! (like I thought would have to be done.)
I do this a lot in schools and the sideliie windows next to it need replacement as it a whole system welded together. My competition comes and offers complete replacement I then quote them a splice repair. When your competitors only offer apples maybe offer an orange! Thanks for commenting.
I’ve been working at a hollow metal shop for a few years and I’ve had to go out in the field to do jam splices like this before. We do it differently and our bondo is blue. Haha shit is hard work. Glad I’m just a shop guy
It is cheaper to splice typically in most applications, but provides more value because of leaving the filled jamb in place (the strongest frame installation method). If you were to replace the frame and regrout it is far less costly. Where this repair benfits most is doors with sidelites as that complete frame replacement is always far more expesive than the splice method. For my experience this repair benefits older schools / commercial buildings the most as they can save significant amoutns with several doors. The manufacturers typically dont tell the installer (whose is responsible to seal the interior of the frame if grouting) to seal the inside of the frame when grouting so failure is a matter of time as most frames only prime painted. Thanks for commenting.
Typically it’s 16 gauge steel. You can get it from the manufacturer or have it made with brake metal. Ask for spare pieces or you may have to buy entire frame. The quantum comment has the info at the bottom. You identify the door by hinge locations or it may state it on hinge side of door. Thanks for watching! Good luck.
@@quantumtechcrypto7080 Thank you! I will try to bend up a piece of 16 ga. The piece used in the video looked like it might be a common item that I just wasn't finding.
@@quantumtechcrypto7080 Thank you! I will try to bend up a piece of 16 ga. The piece used in the video looked like it might be a common item that I just wasn't finding.
Contractors are responsible to seal the inside of the frame before filling with corrosive cement. When that doesn't happen it rusts internally. This option is best when there is side lites or huge systems where this will save huge amounts of money.
In fact, you can easily sand and level corners with angle grinder (if it's not inner corner of cube, which you can level with dremel), I saw it many times. Why you didn't use stainless steel? Yes, it has twice coefficient of thermal expansion comparing to mild steel, but with spot welding it doesn't matter. And how do you inject concrete inside repaired frame? So I dislike your video in comment.
It takes special welding skills and I am not sure it’s compatible with mild steel not to mention I would have to get each price custom made and that would be really expensive. If the installer did his job properly this repair could be avoided.
Stainless requires special welding skills and this is field repair. Have you ever welded stainless steel with a regular rod and also weld it to mild steel? This repair will last another 40 years and I will be long dead but this frame and this comment will live on in infamy. If you haven't done a field repair welding stainless to mild steel go ahead and like my video....twice.
Need help locating the manufacture of the frame? One way you can determine the manufacturer of the door is to measure from the top of the door to the top of each hinge (which is typically 4-1/2" for commercial hinges) that way you can source the frame you need to repair. You can make your own by cutting down the center of the frame and I may post a video about that in the future.
Here is a guide for you so top of door to top of hinge is...
7-3/8" ...Amweld, Republic, Steelcraft
4-7/8" ...Curries, 5-10-Equal, Mesker, Pioneer
6-5/8" ...CECO,
5-1/8"...Fenestra,
7-1/4" Kewanee
These are for reference only as manufacturers and availability change in each state but its a good head start to locate what you need. Since you only need a small piece it could be in the scrap bin too answer is no unless you ask. Best of luck to you.
MY dad is AMAZING he has been running his own business for almost 11 years this guy is truly talented and amazing at his job this is because he loves it and decides to put his best effort into his work!
If this is your Dad, he is great! A true tradesman. God Bless Him!
@@MalibuGlassMI Thank you very much!
Thank you for checking out our new channel. UA-cam has given so much in the way of help on so many projects I would like to give back to the youtube community. I hope this will help. It isn't the easiest job but can be very beneficial in the right environment. Take care everyone.
This video is awesome. Very nice, super pro, and amazing finished product. Great stuff!
Thank you very much. Knowledge is power and so is saving money!
I’ve been an Installation and HM Frame repair business 26 yrs.Good job..Good work. I have over the years veered away from plastic anchors and gone to Tap-Cons…they never work loose and pull out.
I have never had a warranty myself, but for any repairs if needed in the future the stainless steel fastener doesnt rust...even here in SALT Lake City. Tapcons are steel and prone to rusting in my eperience although less than the typical galvanized srews. I, in my preference only, dont like blue colored fasteners. I do use them however when installing continuous hinges on filled jambs where a cover is present and the self drilling screws will mushroom out the frame if not predrileld and cause it to wobble loose over time. I will predrill and use a small cocrete drill to allow proper securement of the fastener.
Thanks for commenting.
There is a fastener from Power Fastener company that hammers in has a round head, no threads, but a bend in the center. I use these on anything that flexes like ramp thresholds, top plates for edge mount docks. Everything else leaves a bolt head or over time will work loose. Its like a hump back rivet lol.
Liked it. Thanks. Stainless steel is no longer expensive. Jamb makers can make in stainless if they can make a kitchen sink in stainless. For part repair like this, I'd always use resin paste over cement.
Been doing doors for over 30 years now and in my experience Stainless steel is so expensive to brake and weld... they'll use fiberglass instead. Ive only seen stainless doors on a restaurants anyway. Like a super model really nice to look at but functionality?? Eh.
Thanks for the detailed information on how to go about this. This is WAY easier than replacing the whole frame! (like I thought would have to be done.)
Try stainless patch instead simple iron, it's not so expensive.
Wow you’re a plethora of misinformation. Thanks for not helping others.
I do this a lot in schools and the sideliie windows next to it need replacement as it a whole system welded together. My competition comes and offers complete replacement I then quote them a splice repair. When your competitors only offer apples maybe offer an orange! Thanks for commenting.
Great Job 😉👍🏽📐🪚🔨💥
Good work Thank 🥰 for this info 👍
I’ve been working at a hollow metal shop for a few years and I’ve had to go out in the field to do jam splices like this before. We do it differently and our bondo is blue. Haha shit is hard work. Glad I’m just a shop guy
Owner or employee?? That is an easy choice these days. Think about going solo.
How does this repair cost compare to the removal and replacement cost of the door frame?
It is cheaper to splice typically in most applications, but provides more value because of leaving the filled jamb in place (the strongest frame installation method). If you were to replace the frame and regrout it is far less costly. Where this repair benfits most is doors with sidelites as that complete frame replacement is always far more expesive than the splice method. For my experience this repair benefits older schools / commercial buildings the most as they can save significant amoutns with several doors. The manufacturers typically dont tell the installer (whose is responsible to seal the interior of the frame if grouting) to seal the inside of the frame when grouting so failure is a matter of time as most frames only prime painted.
Thanks for commenting.
Nice
Where do you get a splice piece like that? I can't find anything like it online.
Typically it’s 16 gauge steel. You can get it from the manufacturer or have it made with brake metal. Ask for spare pieces or you may have to buy entire frame. The quantum comment has the info at the bottom. You identify the door by hinge locations or it may state it on hinge side of door. Thanks for watching! Good luck.
@@quantumtechcrypto7080 Thank you! I will try to bend up a piece of 16 ga. The piece used in the video looked like it might be a common item that I just wasn't finding.
@@quantumtechcrypto7080 Thank you! I will try to bend up a piece of 16 ga. The piece used in the video looked like it might be a common item that I just wasn't finding.
Where are you located
A distant galaxy far far away...Salt Lake City.
Where can I get the patch.
Any commercial door distributors. The very first comment above will help determine the manufacturer.
How long does this process take.
Depends if it’s a high traffic are with people constantly coming by then I’d say 3 hours
If you have all tools and experience, about 15 minutes. If you have no experience, about half of an hour.
He’s not talking about your visit to the restroom but this job.
This is incorrect by hours.
Agreed three hours of being on your knees and bending over and it sucks.
Contractors are responsible to seal the inside of the frame before filling with corrosive cement. When that doesn't happen it rusts internally. This option is best when there is side lites or huge systems where this will save huge amounts of money.
In fact, you can easily sand and level corners with angle grinder (if it's not inner corner of cube, which you can level with dremel), I saw it many times. Why you didn't use stainless steel? Yes, it has twice coefficient of thermal expansion comparing to mild steel, but with spot welding it doesn't matter. And how do you inject concrete inside repaired frame? So I dislike your video in comment.
It takes special welding skills and I am not sure it’s compatible with mild steel not to mention I would have to get each price custom made and that would be really expensive. If the installer did his job properly this repair could be avoided.
Stainless requires special welding skills and this is field repair. Have you ever welded stainless steel with a regular rod and also weld it to mild steel? This repair will last another 40 years and I will be long dead but this frame and this comment will live on in infamy. If you haven't done a field repair welding stainless to mild steel go ahead and like my video....twice.