If access is tight fitting manifolds & gaskets, small cables ties can be used through bolt holes/gasket holes to hold gasket to manifold, fit bolt in hole that doesn't have cable ties, snip off cable ties once two bolts fitted then fit the rest, you don't drop gasket or need 3 hands then
File the hole on the end that fits so you get more movement on the side that doesn't. But you will probably have to file a few of them. You should really make a card manifold gasket that fits the head, then transfer that shape onto the manifold. If the bolt holes are that far out you can bet the exhaust port holes are too. You can use the dental floss trick to hold the actual gasket and manifolds together, you can also fit the studs into the head. If you don't want to keep dropping washers, get a long thin screwdriver and put the washer on that and hold it against the tip of the threads, let the washer slide down the shaft and guide it onto the stud. Also, put some used yoghurt cartons or plastic cups in the SU intakes so washers and nuts and crap doesn't fall in them! Those heater pipe inlet and outlets are shot, a recipe for disaster on a rebuilt engine.
The next time you need to fit manifolds with awkward gaskets, tie the gasket to the manifold with dental floss, then cut the floss when the manifold and gasket are seated, but before torquing.
Fixing a Rover while reading from a Rover manual and drinking from a Rover mug. Couldn’t be much better to be honest. I’m sure there were lots of people doing the same kind of thing in the 70s and 80s to these Rovers. Great video as always
You need a socket rail for 3/8” and 1/2” to organise sockets in size. Snap on started them and everyone makes them now. Rover is coming together nicely. Will be a very enjoyable first drive when finished.🙂
At the car warranty company I worked for, the part time caretaker had an immaculate Rover 3500S that he never drove at more than 50mph as he was elderly and his eyes weren't so good. If only I could have afforded to buy it off him in 1979, but he would never have sold it anyway. It was a beauty. I think he was a retired engineer of some kind.
Lovely Job Matt, those manifolds look awesome. As to washers falling during such a fiddly job; I always keep them in place with small bits of Blu Tack (top end where it doesn't matter if there is added material) which can be removed after the first turns of the bolts/nuts.
Very interesting indeed. This is dangerous for me. You are making me think about getting a second Volvo 240 Estate and fitting a Rover 4.6 under the bonnet. Certainly not a run of the mill conversion, especially here in Canada, but the idea makes sense. Should not even upset the balance of the car because the alloy V8 should be lighter than the cast iron Red Block inline 4.
Putting a Rover V8 in a rear-wheel drive Volvo is pretty simple. I believe there is a company in the UK that sells engine mounts specifically designed for that. Of course, the issues can come depending on how far you want to take it. I can say, from experience, that it takes having access to people with knowledge if you want to go for a twin-turbo conversion, but it can be done...
Yeah i'd say you can mix just half a litre of normal or even just buy a bottle of STP to add to your running in oil, you're only going to drain it away soon after anyway as your oil pump is full of vaseline anyway
I like your patience with multiple projects, not sure I could do what you do. Slightly surprised you don't have Edd China style bits of coded tape around pipes/wires on an engine you don't work on every day to remind you where they go; I know it would be the only I'd ever be able to put things back together again...even if I'd taken it apart 5 minutes ago! I guess we are all wired differently!
fitting on the bottom and not at the top, while having the upper spacing-supporting ramp cut off and being dickered and rewelded in few spots are all good reasons things get bent outta shape for those 1 or 2 milimeters, I would just proceed to bolt it in, or if you feel that the tension is high, I would spread em cheeks and weld in a new spacer to replace the section that has been cut off, or maybe even braze it in with silver-solder as to avoid more bending outta shape in some other direction... Also, regarding the fresh engine oil, it can be mixed with normal engine oil, as the wear in oil just have additional additives and often contain other oily derivatives which are as compatible with regular synth oil as they are with whatever snakeoil is that you bought to wear in the new engine... Especially given the 10% quantity you are talkin about... Mostly the wear in period oil has a different way of behaving at temperatures compared to traditional oil, as it is supposed to allow for the engine to work properly with new clearances until the walls and surfaces bed in and change the nominal values to what the engine prefers which is always a bit looser than the fresh cut, which once bedded in, allows for normal engine oil with normal viscosity, recommended by the manufacturer as the engine is now at its "optimal" point of wear and bedding at which finer oil with more friction reducers is not even recommended...
Also, regarding the dremel, they make flexi adapter that comes with its own chuck which is screw fit rather than being a precision chuck which is great, and the flexi part is junk cheap... I remember getting mine for free at the local store when nobody was looking, as the personnel is scum there and prices are way too rude so i took the liberty of walking out with it, but it was so cheap i actually wanted to buy it just because of how cheap it was, but then, let them deal with their management and questions of how do thing end up walking outta store while they are on the watch... That said, the part is a about a meter long spring-tube covered in black insulation and it does the job well, you just have to get used to reduction in torque as the axle is pretty much a solid spring steel wire wrapped in more overlapping spring steel, granting you a decent part that does its job well... You just unscrew the top cap from the dremel, but you have to have a precision chuck for it, as it is used to retain and transfer the power to the flex axle, while the outer cable screws onto the dremel as to avoid injury to morons and prevent other damage to the tool... So if you are hoping to avoid getting a new chuck, think twice, but i would advise getting it and the flex part, as its a 40 pounds combination which really is pennies for something you buy once every like 7 years... Also, oil the flex part often, just unscrew it from the body of the dremel, drip oil in it and screw it back on, without messing with the inner chuck that will be hidden by the flex part...
little tip when putting on a manifold with bolts rather than studs put bolt through a small elastic band then add the washer then put bolt into the manifold so it pinches the band, put the gasket on the back then stretch the band over the bottom of the bolt that will hold all in place. screw the bolts into the manifold as soon as the bolts engage in the thread cut the bands and pull them out of the way. if you drilled out the hole on the manifold the ports may still not line up which would could cause breathing issues for the engine.
I was thinking that about the misaligned ports. Maybe heating with a torch would bring it into shape..one for the hot rod shop! Thanks for the gasket tip!
@@furiousdriving i know its not my car but if it was mine i would have it re-welded properly i wouldnt want to put any stress into the stainless without the support strap there. cant wait to here this thing start up its going to be sweet :-)
@@dazad1972 Valley Gas build custom stainless exhausts for hot rods and I've asked them to do me a pipe, so Ill ask them to look at this too which shouldn't be too hard for them slice and reweld
@@furiousdriving Yeah! But at least your manifolds are shiny, and you have a cup of tea to hand. So, all of the good times, as a certain fellow UA-camr wou..... Sorry it's really hard to get away from it!
Is the oilpump at the lower end of the distributor on these engines, like on a Volvo B18-B20? On those you could remove the gear underneath the distributor that is driven by the camshaft and run the oilpump with an electric drill, only do it the right way, to prime the engine with oil before first start. But getting the gear in the right position afterwards was crucial for it to start.
I would have got some slightly smaller slightly longer bolts put them on the manifold put gaskets on then marry up against the engine holding it then one by one take out long bolts replace with proper one's and wallaaa no disappearing gaskets or wonky fitting one's. Nice to see you getting back to the Rover getting it ready, I know I'm commenting on over a year after the video was put up on your channel but just my tuppence worth, You are doing well with the Channel and i like your " Goes for a drive " with plenty of choices of cars old & new. I suspect you have more subs where some people don't sub they just look on and for whatever reason don't want to click that button i have seen your stickers on a few cars here in south London and UA-cam is a Massive platform world wide how many country's have you sent Merch to ? I'm typing to myself here LOL still i will start to worry if i reply to myself as well LOL Take care you and your family hope you have escaped Covid or at least had your jabs right lets get back to next Furious Driving video Old and New Cheers Matt.
Do you think the wrong angled weld is the reason for the removed part between the exhaust ports on the shiny one, a feeble attempt to make it reach or maybe the reason it got too short?
11:13 "The why pipe" Well if you don't your engine will be noisier and not run as well, plus if the back of your exhaust system isn't connected to anything, there's not much point fitting it.
i thought of you earlier fella,there is a rover convertable the same as yours on facebook buy and sell,only £300.00 quid....the roof looked ok too......but its suffering like your one was with gremlins..
Just. Wondering wether you should swap manifolds left to right !!!!!! Great content as per usual !!!!STAY SAFE 👍👍👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧HAPPY XMAS AND NEW YEAR🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅
can you not just swap the headers round? I would try that first before you start thinking about re-drilling etc, sometimes there can be small differences in the castings...worth a try!
Having those very good diagrams was invaluable as you had not taken any photos on disassembly with the old engine, always a good idea if the project is going to be a stop start one and no books to hand. Something I did not have the luxury of as had to send the film off to the lab and then get full or half plate blow ups. An SLR is a bulky camera to fit in small places with a wide angle or macro lens attached and having to guess the focus as cannot look through the viewfinder, head won't fit as well. Smartphones are forgiven. Could you not file the hole out a bit, just enough to get the bolt to thread correctly, adjusting the gasket as well. With all the other bolts loose, enough movement may be possible without any or a small amount of modification. This must be getting exhausting now. Sorry for that one! Just heard a deal has been agreed, last minute as always, now Boris has to get it through Parliament and the rest of the EU agree it.
@@furiousdriving I have found it brilliant, I had a Clarke welder befiore that I didn't get on with., there are some utbe vids on it. Time to go to hobby gas.
Why not just elongate the hole in the manifold with an ordinary drill, it wont affect the clamping pressure and you could finish the manifold fitment. Those manifolds look really smart.
@@furiousdriving Fair point, would it bend enough with the connector piece joining it to the next branch? Edit- How does the gasket look on the manifold and head, does it cover any of the port or is it clear?
There is sometimes no substitute for verbally abusing the car you are working on when things go wrong. Has the Internet made people soft or something 😂?
I prefer Nm which this wrench has, but being an old engine its listed in old money. Im curious what they use on the continent and Australia as 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drives are standard here and in the US, is there a mm equivalent?
Being dyslexic smart phones are a god send, lots of pictures always help when coming back to a job.
I did label alot with masking tape, but it lost its sticky and fell off!
If access is tight fitting manifolds & gaskets, small cables ties can be used through bolt holes/gasket holes to hold gasket to manifold, fit bolt in hole that doesn't have cable ties, snip off cable ties once two bolts fitted then fit the rest, you don't drop gasket or need 3 hands then
File the hole on the end that fits so you get more movement on the side that doesn't. But you will probably have to file a few of them. You should really make a card manifold gasket that fits the head, then transfer that shape onto the manifold. If the bolt holes are that far out you can bet the exhaust port holes are too.
You can use the dental floss trick to hold the actual gasket and manifolds together, you can also fit the studs into the head. If you don't want to keep dropping washers, get a long thin screwdriver and put the washer on that and hold it against the tip of the threads, let the washer slide down the shaft and guide it onto the stud.
Also, put some used yoghurt cartons or plastic cups in the SU intakes so washers and nuts and crap doesn't fall in them!
Those heater pipe inlet and outlets are shot, a recipe for disaster on a rebuilt engine.
The next time you need to fit manifolds with awkward gaskets, tie the gasket to the manifold with dental floss, then cut the floss when the manifold and gasket are seated, but before torquing.
Fixing a Rover while reading from a Rover manual and drinking from a Rover mug. Couldn’t be much better to be honest. I’m sure there were lots of people doing the same kind of thing in the 70s and 80s to these Rovers. Great video as always
You need a socket rail for 3/8” and 1/2” to organise sockets in size. Snap on started them and everyone makes them now. Rover is coming together nicely. Will be a very enjoyable first drive when finished.🙂
At the car warranty company I worked for, the part time caretaker had an immaculate Rover 3500S that he never drove at more than 50mph as he was elderly and his eyes weren't so good. If only I could have afforded to buy it off him in 1979, but he would never have sold it anyway. It was a beauty. I think he was a retired engineer of some kind.
It was known as an engineer's car, so over the top under the skin
Hi Matt,it's looking nice with the chrome parts,it is almost there with the engine.cant wait for the roar of the Rover when it's done.
Lovely Job Matt, those manifolds look awesome. As to washers falling during such a fiddly job; I always keep them in place with small bits of Blu Tack (top end where it doesn't matter if there is added material) which can be removed after the first turns of the bolts/nuts.
Very interesting indeed. This is dangerous for me. You are making me think about getting a second Volvo 240 Estate and fitting a Rover 4.6 under the bonnet. Certainly not a run of the mill conversion, especially here in Canada, but the idea makes sense. Should not even upset the balance of the car because the alloy V8 should be lighter than the cast iron Red Block inline 4.
Putting a Rover V8 in a rear-wheel drive Volvo is pretty simple. I believe there is a company in the UK that sells engine mounts specifically designed for that. Of course, the issues can come depending on how far you want to take it. I can say, from experience, that it takes having access to people with knowledge if you want to go for a twin-turbo conversion, but it can be done...
Yeah i'd say you can mix just half a litre of normal or even just buy a bottle of STP to add to your running in oil, you're only going to drain it away soon after anyway as your oil pump is full of vaseline anyway
I like your patience with multiple projects, not sure I could do what you do. Slightly surprised you don't have Edd China style bits of coded tape around pipes/wires on an engine you don't work on every day to remind you where they go; I know it would be the only I'd ever be able to put things back together again...even if I'd taken it apart 5 minutes ago! I guess we are all wired differently!
It's manifold week. Everyone will be exhausted by the time it's Christmas.
Yeah, Hubnut having manifold trouble on the 2CV. Things happen in 3's, hope I am not the next.....
@@peterriggall8409 I just hope the alternator doesn't pack up on the Volvo, Alfa or Mini next.
The Manifolds look stunning against the green paint of the block. Looking forward to the retro review on Friday.
This is what I ve been dreaming about for ages now!
Make sure to spend quality time with family, you’ve given us lots this year in videos and what have you, Happy Christmas 🎄
If you have a big enough bench vice whack the manifold in there and using a bit of heat massaging it to fit could work Matt
The Rover Cabriolet keeps dodging it's MoT like an athlete dodging a drugs test...
fitting on the bottom and not at the top, while having the upper spacing-supporting ramp cut off and being dickered and rewelded in few spots are all good reasons things get bent outta shape for those 1 or 2 milimeters, I would just proceed to bolt it in, or if you feel that the tension is high, I would spread em cheeks and weld in a new spacer to replace the section that has been cut off, or maybe even braze it in with silver-solder as to avoid more bending outta shape in some other direction...
Also, regarding the fresh engine oil, it can be mixed with normal engine oil, as the wear in oil just have additional additives and often contain other oily derivatives which are as compatible with regular synth oil as they are with whatever snakeoil is that you bought to wear in the new engine... Especially given the 10% quantity you are talkin about... Mostly the wear in period oil has a different way of behaving at temperatures compared to traditional oil, as it is supposed to allow for the engine to work properly with new clearances until the walls and surfaces bed in and change the nominal values to what the engine prefers which is always a bit looser than the fresh cut, which once bedded in, allows for normal engine oil with normal viscosity, recommended by the manufacturer as the engine is now at its "optimal" point of wear and bedding at which finer oil with more friction reducers is not even recommended...
Also, regarding the dremel, they make flexi adapter that comes with its own chuck which is screw fit rather than being a precision chuck which is great, and the flexi part is junk cheap... I remember getting mine for free at the local store when nobody was looking, as the personnel is scum there and prices are way too rude so i took the liberty of walking out with it, but it was so cheap i actually wanted to buy it just because of how cheap it was, but then, let them deal with their management and questions of how do thing end up walking outta store while they are on the watch... That said, the part is a about a meter long spring-tube covered in black insulation and it does the job well, you just have to get used to reduction in torque as the axle is pretty much a solid spring steel wire wrapped in more overlapping spring steel, granting you a decent part that does its job well... You just unscrew the top cap from the dremel, but you have to have a precision chuck for it, as it is used to retain and transfer the power to the flex axle, while the outer cable screws onto the dremel as to avoid injury to morons and prevent other damage to the tool... So if you are hoping to avoid getting a new chuck, think twice, but i would advise getting it and the flex part, as its a 40 pounds combination which really is pennies for something you buy once every like 7 years... Also, oil the flex part often, just unscrew it from the body of the dremel, drip oil in it and screw it back on, without messing with the inner chuck that will be hidden by the flex part...
to be fair to the guy at my local garage he's been pretty fair on a few lately despite risking tetanus getting in some of them!
Can't wait to here that v8 fire up matt your getting there slowly but surely great video cheers
I've just watched Hubnut changing the exhaust manifold on the 2CV6 it must be catching!!
Ive not watched that yet...
@@furiousdriving Just don't do what he did.
little tip when putting on a manifold with bolts rather than studs put bolt through a small elastic band then add the washer then put bolt into the manifold so it pinches the band, put the gasket on the back then stretch the band over the bottom of the bolt that will hold all in place. screw the bolts into the manifold as soon as the bolts engage in the thread cut the bands and pull them out of the way. if you drilled out the hole on the manifold the ports may still not line up which would could cause breathing issues for the engine.
I was thinking that about the misaligned ports. Maybe heating with a torch would bring it into shape..one for the hot rod shop! Thanks for the gasket tip!
@@furiousdriving i know its not my car but if it was mine i would have it re-welded properly i wouldnt want to put any stress into the stainless without the support strap there. cant wait to here this thing start up its going to be sweet :-)
@@furiousdriving i have used hematite to hold gaskets in place , just enough to stick the gasket to surface
@@dazad1972 Valley Gas build custom stainless exhausts for hot rods and I've asked them to do me a pipe, so Ill ask them to look at this too which shouldn't be too hard for them slice and reweld
Such a cool car and those manifolds look superb!
First Ian and his 2CV manifold woes, and now this. Is there something in the water across the pond?
must be this week!
Well, that's a pain in the manifold...
@@furiousdriving Yeah! But at least your manifolds are shiny, and you have a cup of tea to hand. So, all of the good times, as a certain fellow UA-camr wou..... Sorry it's really hard to get away from it!
Again: headless studs or long internal socket set screws to hang and align the gaskets and headers upon, then install the rest of the cap screws.
Is the oilpump at the lower end of the distributor on these engines, like on a Volvo B18-B20? On those you could remove the gear underneath the distributor that is driven by the camshaft and run the oilpump with an electric drill, only do it the right way, to prime the engine with oil before first start. But getting the gear in the right position afterwards was crucial for it to start.
Yes, its basically a Buick so you can prime the pump that way, its packed with grease at the moment to help prime it as well
I'm so pleased to see you're Alfa back where it belongs I really like that car
I would have got some slightly smaller slightly longer bolts put them on the manifold put gaskets on then marry up against the engine holding it then one by one take out long bolts replace with proper one's and wallaaa no disappearing gaskets or wonky fitting one's. Nice to see you getting back to the Rover getting it ready, I know I'm commenting on over a year after the video was put up on your channel but just my tuppence worth, You are doing well with the Channel and i like your " Goes for a drive " with plenty of choices of cars old & new. I suspect you have more subs where some people don't sub they just look on and for whatever reason don't want to click that button i have seen your stickers on a few cars here in south London and UA-cam is a Massive platform world wide how many country's have you sent Merch to ? I'm typing to myself here LOL still i will start to worry if i reply to myself as well LOL Take care you and your family hope you have escaped Covid or at least had your jabs right lets get back to next Furious Driving video Old and New Cheers Matt.
Good to see the old Volvo lights joining the spares pile.
I hope there's some kind of secret automotive bonding going on between the old Volvo taillights perched on the windscreen, and the Rover...!!
Do you think the wrong angled weld is the reason for the removed part between the exhaust ports on the shiny one, a feeble attempt to make it reach or maybe the reason it got too short?
no, the guy who did it took it out for cosmetic reasons, if he'd known it didnt fit hes more than handy enough with a welded to have corrected it
11:13
"The why pipe"
Well if you don't your engine will be noisier and not run as well, plus if the back of your exhaust system isn't connected to anything, there's not much point fitting it.
i thought of you earlier fella,there is a rover convertable the same as yours on facebook buy and sell,only £300.00 quid....the roof looked ok too......but its suffering like your one was with gremlins..
That must be a non runner for that price? Good ones go for about 4 times that or more
@@furiousdriving There are running ones?
@@matthewhocken9133 harsh...
The more I watch you tinker and struggle the more I think I need to do the 928 with the engine out.
on a 928 everything is easier with the engine out, except taking the engine out...
@@furiousdriving lol very true... and I'd still have to struggle around the edges taking it out and putting it back 🤣
Hey, from which firm is the exhaust manifold? Thanks Tom
I dont know, they were second hand
Get the dremel working and use that to open the bolt hole in the manifold
You should have done that with the engine out. Merry Christmas
Just. Wondering wether you should swap manifolds left to right !!!!!! Great content as per usual !!!!STAY SAFE 👍👍👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧HAPPY XMAS AND NEW YEAR🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅
they should be symmetrical, and the other fitted its side fine, so I dont think it would go over
I am willing that Rover through the MOT !
can you not just swap the headers round? I would try that first before you start thinking about re-drilling etc, sometimes there can be small differences in the castings...worth a try!
They should be symmetrical so it shouldn't make any difference
Having those very good diagrams was invaluable as you had not taken any photos on disassembly with the old engine, always a good idea if the project is going to be a stop start one and no books to hand. Something I did not have the luxury of as had to send the film off to the lab and then get full or half plate blow ups. An SLR is a bulky camera to fit in small places with a wide angle or macro lens attached and having to guess the focus as cannot look through the viewfinder, head won't fit as well. Smartphones are forgiven. Could you not file the hole out a bit, just enough to get the bolt to thread correctly, adjusting the gasket as well. With all the other bolts loose, enough movement may be possible without any or a small amount of modification. This must be getting exhausting now. Sorry for that one! Just heard a deal has been agreed, last minute as always, now Boris has to get it through Parliament and the rest of the EU agree it.
I had put labels in but the tape lost its sticky and the labels dropped off!
But did u use the tea shelf?
Tea inner wing!
for get the convertable more of the v8 please
have you bought another welder Matt ? i saw one on the floor just like mine ! Merry christmas to you and the family.
In the black friday sales - Ive not tried it yet as it didnt come with a connector for the gas - is it any good?
@@furiousdriving I have found it brilliant, I had a Clarke welder befiore that I didn't get on with., there are some utbe vids on it. Time to go to hobby gas.
Tea-scuttle-panel.
Edd furious vs edd hubnut its manifold day top tip get a magnetic bolts tray from halfords £7.99 🤓😷👍 top tip organise your tools 😷🤓👍
I have got one somewhere, but my stuff is in more danger when Im trying to use it!
Why not just elongate the hole in the manifold with an ordinary drill, it wont affect the clamping pressure and you could finish the manifold fitment. Those manifolds look really smart.
Im concerned the ports dont match either, so would restrict power on those 2 cylinders, it would be better to move them over, heat and bend perhaps
@@furiousdriving Fair point, would it bend enough with the connector piece joining it to the next branch?
Edit-
How does the gasket look on the manifold and head, does it cover any of the port or is it clear?
Happy internet shopping for you
A Dremel is a handy tool with a mini-saw job done for hard to get jobs !!!
Not sure I'd be good at self videos working on cars , I'd be spending way too much time deleting expletives.
There is sometimes no substitute for verbally abusing the car you are working on when things go wrong. Has the Internet made people soft or something 😂?
3/8 drive 10mm socket 25 ft/lb. Boy do you need Brexit. Get your freakin units sorted UK.
I prefer Nm which this wrench has, but being an old engine its listed in old money. Im curious what they use on the continent and Australia as 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drives are standard here and in the US, is there a mm equivalent?
How irritating!