If it was a Mercedes not only would they not bat an eye they would be able to order any part needed from the factory. Mercedes has a antique parts section that has parts for ANY car they have ever made. Have a 1955 300 SL gull wing and need new brake drums? No problem as long as you have around $2000 each for them. Hey I never said they were affordable but if you own a Gullwing Mercedes what 8 grand+ for a brake job.
I suspect he saved himself about $2,800 in labor vs If he would have taken it to a Ford dealership. Any service writer can tell you, just scanning it for codes to verify the leak would have been $150. They would have kept it at least two weeks and it would have been left outside in the rain so the interior would be wet and there would be fast food wrappers on the floor (and maybe a used condom) also and the radiator would be leaking when he got it back. Fixing that would be an additional $3,000.
a few things, always stuff the piston area with rags to collect chips and use a vacumn cleaner While your scraping near the blade or tool to pull the dust away. and of course work slowly , nobody sees how fast you do it , just how well. dirt will get jammed in the rings etc. Id also never use a wire brush as they can shed, and of course scratch. unless you use a bronze brush and work slowly. hard plastic scraper probably be best. compressed air will blow dirt in to places it never would ordinarily get, a good shop vac is the best clean up technique
My 88 year old father said you run a high risk of breaking your wrist the way you crank that. You must crank underhanded and only from top bottom to top. Don’t crank over the top! And underhanded so backfire will spring out of your hand!!
And he is quite right :) ... I was getting a little frustrated to be honest haha.... though touch wood this far, my T has never kicked once in 7 years of ownership. But you are quite right with your comment :) Thanks :)
I really good tech tip I learned is that with bolts like the rear ones that must stay in the head you can take a rubber band and put it across the two adjacent bolts which will apply tension to them and keep them into the perfect position while reinstalling and removing the cylinder head.
Greetings from UK. Really enjoying your videos and the obvious level of effort that you have put into them,very professional. I am a big classic car fan and have a couple of oldies myself but never a T, well not yet anyway....... I have restored a couple of old Fordson tractors, an F and an N and can see so much similarity to your car in them. The F was from 1917, a lend / lease for the war effort from America. It's so amazing to see a 100 year old machine still be able to work hard and plough like it did when new. The N is an ex Air Force airfield tractor that is crazy fast. It can easily keep up with modern tractors on a run and I have not had the guts to fully open it up! It was confirmed at 38 mph on a gps and still had more to go. Love the engineering of these beautiful machines.
also this might seem like a very weird observation, but i like how you have set the bolt and tools off to the side of the vehicle. a lot of people would have had velvet lined magnetic bowls for the pieces as they came off
I've always found the brush-on gasket sealer to be easier to deal with, but that's probably just my frugal nature. If you use solvents to clean out the cylinders while you're in there, that's good, but don't forget to re-oil them before you close it up. Most of your engine wear happens in the brief period between when it starts turning and when the oil starts actually going where it belongs, so try to avoid making that problem worse. That bit where you were getting impatient starting it and just running the crank around in a circle is what will earn you a broken arm. Always pull a starting crank, never push.
Did you clean the valve surfaces? And why wouldent you use 1000 grit sand paper to smoothen the pistons and valves? And a tip for removing gasket material is to use a flat razor.
Some old American drag racing history for ya is that the carbon buildup was used by drag racers to raise compression to increase performance in fact they also used to sand blast the tops of the pistons and the combustion chamber of the heads to create a rough surface that carbon loved to stick too I personally wouldn't do that but it was the cheapest way to raise the compression even tho it wasn't much as we have modern ways with thinner head gaskets high comp. pistons and heads and definitely have my respect for using the original tools 👍
Looks good. Be careful using a steel brush on cast iron. It will put scratches in the surface. Also a head gasket made from modern material would probably last longer.
carburetor + flathead? not really a good turbo base, plus the fact that he only tightened those head bolts to 60n/m would just blow the pressure out the sides
This thing doesn't even have a typical manual or automatic transmission. It works with friction bands and is controlled by pedals instead of a shift lever.
A good idea would be to check both the block and head for flatness with a straight edge. When head gaskets leak, there's a reason. You might want to look into replacing the head bolts with studs. Good luck with your fine car.
I was fortunate there was no warping. The leak was due to a poorly done replacement by a previous owner, who didn't clean the block down before installing the new gasket. there was debris trapped between the gasket and the block. I was amazed it's taken all this time to start leaking. All fixed now though :)
I love how almost all repairs can be done with the one spanner that Ford gave you. You can't do that with modern cars, not at all. Back then, even your nan could redo the head gasket on that car.
Another great video. I noticed you used a wire brush and not a scrapping tool to clean. The correct tool! Scrapers tend to make gouges which is not good. When I was working on my old Ford flatheads I learned the hard way about gouging the block surface with scraping tools.
Do you know if the head bolts were ever replaced? I know that head bolts can actually stretch from use over time and cause the head gasket to fail and or the bolts can snap when your reinstalling them, I found that out from my dads 81 JEEP Cherokee. Awesome video though!
He said 45 ft*lb, which is about a third of a modern engine. Well within yeild limits of such a bolt. But, if you want to know for sure, run a nut the length of the threads. If the bolt has stretched, the nut will "hang up" and you won't be able to spin it with your fingers.
If f only modern cars were this easy. My grandfather used to own old cars like this and he told me once he had a Model T and during restoration he didn't have to remove the engine!
What likely happen the 1st time is someone thought if run the engine idle for 10 min. it's hot...far from the truth. Take your car out for a 3 hour or better cruise, let it sit over night then torque your head bolts. You probably could have solved the original leak by simply torquing down the head, bolt stretch isn't much of a concern because the torque is relatively low for the size of the bolts. With that in mind DO NOT OVER TIGHTIN. you can strip out the block and/or stretch out the threads in the block. And an other thing any copper gasket is reusable as long as the surface isn't damaged or ripped. The gasket must be baked in an oven preferably, a hotplate will do. bake it for 2 hour's at 400 degrees Fahrenheit and it will expand to original thickness and allow it to cool down in the oven. do not use water to quench it as this will only harden the gasket defeating the purpose, and risk distortion.
can't overstress how critical the tightening of the head bolts really is, and using such as the sequence graph you included, and using an accurate, measured ft/lb technique. hope viewers take your advice. thanks.
Mitch Taylor If you raise the boiling point, wouldn't water be able to hold and transfer more energy from cylinder to radiator vs plain water? Our oldest tractor is the 1940 Allis WC and it hasn't over heated under heavy load for long periods using glycol based coolant. But if you're trying to keep things period correct, I think Alcohol was used as an anti-freeze. I'll have to double-check that one with my grandpa. Now you've got my gears turning.
you can use coolant with any water cooled engine and with any radiator its better to use coolant because if you use nothing but water the inside of the engine can corrode after a while
zappy bear actually I believe straight water is most efficient at transferring heat. As long as you have pressure in the cooling system it will raise the boiling point of water though additives do raise the boiling point as well.
Alcohol eats rubber hoses and seals. Just ask anyone who ran regular gas with ethanol in it. SeaDoos had a huge problem with gas tanks and lines being destroyed by methanol in the gas.
Debris Control-- 1) Project the block interior. Plug all passageways so as to not allow debris to invade. including the bolt holes! 2) Examin /clean/replace head bolts. Your work was properly done the aforementioned things are the modern pathways. this information is hard learned knowledge and should be applied today. enjoy
Hi Mitch. I was wondering if you checked the head for flatness in case of warping? Maybe not an issue with those engines. At any rate looks like Lizzie is ready for some more trips. Not much in the way to fix her up like the new cars these days :-)
It's much less prone for warping because its a cast iron also I think such old engine doesnt have much compression ratio comparing to new engines and you can get away with less precision
Since there are no dowel pins you can use a pair of old head bolts with head cut off as temporary dowel pins. Just to ensure that tha gasket won’t move.
You should never use a wire brush to clean around open pistons and valves. A small piece of wire could break loose in end up between the piston and cylinder wall and do damage.
Torque wrenches were a rare item a hundred years ago. The factory probably had them, but not very many other people. This cast iron stuff was pretty forgiving. Most mechanics a hundred years ago would just tighten the head bolts "GoodAndTight" by hand and by "feel".
I newer start with more than 10Nm always around 10Nm and then 20/ 30Nm , 50Nm and final tourque. When final is 20 -30Nm i start using 1 finger then up to 10Nm , 15Nm 20Nm and 30Nm
I was two minutes beyond it before I suddenly realised you pulled the new head gasket for a 100 year old vehicle out of a plastic wrapper, like you’d just popped down to your local car parts store and picked one up. How hard is it getting parts for these?
Moroso ceramaseal, it's not like stop leak. When I ran copper gaskets on my small block they leaked like crazy around the head studs. This stuff permanently seals them after about 30 minutes running w/o a thermostat. I've used it on old tractors to newer cars that I couldn't get aluminum parts to seal from pitting. Never had any problems like plugged heater cores you get with stopleak. Best $20 fix for problems like this.
Nah, get that air impact out. Ingersoll Rand started experimenting with air impacts in 1934. Alot of thing started being experimented with longer before you think.
OK, so this is probably the most random comment you will get, but I have to ask. Are you originally from NZ? I am not an expert by any means, but your accent, inflections, and pattern remind me a lot of the NZ accent versus the traditional Aussie 'g'day mate'. And great job on the video! :)
Actually I was born in England, but moved to Australia when I was almost 7 years old... I have my mum to thank for the accent who still hasn't really lost hers haha!
I find it strange that in this day and age engines are becoming harder to service than they were back in the days of the model T. It's a good 3 hour job just to get the head off of my car
MrcabooseVG it’s because everything is a lot tighter, it’s hard to put the wrench in to turn the bolt, 2 out of three hours you are fitting the wrench and turning the bolt and nuts, it takes three hours to do an oil pan gasket on my Golf GTI.
Shouldn't you loosen all the head bolts before taking them out to prevent warping the head instead of taking one out ar a time? That's the way I was taught and modern heads are a lot thicker than that head
I was bouta say you dumb if you left those pistons like that , but good thing you cleaned them off idc what engine it is I always clean the carbon off the pistons when I'm putting the head back on
You should take it to the ford dealer for a service and see what they say
I have thought about this before!! 😝
Mitch Taylor if you do make a video about it
If it was a Mercedes not only would they not bat an eye they would be able to order any part needed from the factory. Mercedes has a antique parts section that has parts for ANY car they have ever made. Have a 1955 300 SL gull wing and need new brake drums? No problem as long as you have around $2000 each for them. Hey I never said they were affordable but if you own a Gullwing Mercedes what 8 grand+ for a brake job.
M773 budyy, chill out
I suspect he saved himself about $2,800 in labor vs If he would have taken it to a Ford dealership. Any service writer can tell you, just scanning it for codes to verify the leak would have been $150. They would have kept it at least two weeks and it would have been left outside in the rain so the interior would be wet and there would be fast food wrappers on the floor (and maybe a used condom) also and the radiator would be leaking when he got it back. Fixing that would be an additional $3,000.
A pure joy watching a guy work with his very old car. It’s plain to see he loves this machine not unlike a man loves his bride. Great videos!
I have no intention on ever replacing a model T head gasket. But I really enjoyed this video.
a few things, always stuff the piston area with rags to collect chips and use a vacumn cleaner While your scraping near the blade or tool to pull the dust away. and of course work slowly , nobody sees how fast you do it , just how well. dirt will get jammed in the rings etc. Id also never use a wire brush as they can shed, and of course scratch. unless you use a bronze brush and work slowly. hard plastic scraper probably be best. compressed air will blow dirt in to places it never would ordinarily get, a good shop vac is the best clean up technique
Great video sir! While I'm not a Model T guy, I have deep respect for anyone who keeps the old motors a live.
My 88 year old father said you run a high risk of breaking your wrist the way you crank that. You must crank underhanded and only from top bottom to top. Don’t crank over the top! And underhanded so backfire will spring out of your hand!!
And he is quite right :) ... I was getting a little frustrated to be honest haha.... though touch wood this far, my T has never kicked once in 7 years of ownership. But you are quite right with your comment :) Thanks :)
Mitch Taylor You can knock on plastic in these modern times, lol. 😉
I was at the Henry Ford Museum last summer, and they referred to a broken wrist you can get from a backfire as "The Ford Fracture."
I tought the same but he made out ok lol. would be Bitch trying to turn that till the fuel got to the motor.
Henry Leland, the inventor of the Cadillac electric starter was inspired after a friend of his died after breaking his wrist..
I really good tech tip I learned is that with bolts like the rear ones that must stay in the head you can take a rubber band and put it across the two adjacent bolts which will apply tension to them and keep them into the perfect position while reinstalling and removing the cylinder head.
Greetings from UK. Really enjoying your videos and the obvious level of effort that you have put into them,very professional. I am a big classic car fan and have a couple of oldies myself but never a T, well not yet anyway....... I have restored a couple of old Fordson tractors, an F and an N and can see so much similarity to your car in them. The F was from 1917, a lend / lease for the war effort from America. It's so amazing to see a 100 year old machine still be able to work hard and plough like it did when new. The N is an ex Air Force airfield tractor that is crazy fast. It can easily keep up with modern tractors on a run and I have not had the guts to fully open it up! It was confirmed at 38 mph on a gps and still had more to go. Love the engineering of these beautiful machines.
also this might seem like a very weird observation, but i like how you have set the bolt and tools off to the side of the vehicle. a lot of people would have had velvet lined magnetic bowls for the pieces as they came off
Love your videos, wish I could afford to buy a Model T myself. With your knowledge I would have it purring in no time.
Now that was very enjoyable to watch! Kind of like an oversize lawnmower engine, but easier to work on lol.
It's nice to see people are still passionate about the classics, very nice video!
everything looks so simple it's hard to believe it really works.
They don´t make cars like they used to. Then again they don´t make people like they used to either.
I've always found the brush-on gasket sealer to be easier to deal with, but that's probably just my frugal nature.
If you use solvents to clean out the cylinders while you're in there, that's good, but don't forget to re-oil them before you close it up. Most of your engine wear happens in the brief period between when it starts turning and when the oil starts actually going where it belongs, so try to avoid making that problem worse.
That bit where you were getting impatient starting it and just running the crank around in a circle is what will earn you a broken arm. Always pull a starting crank, never push.
Did you clean the valve surfaces? And why wouldent you use 1000 grit sand paper to smoothen the pistons and valves? And a tip for removing gasket material is to use a flat razor.
Great video, Cheers from New York City.
Some old American drag racing history for ya is that the carbon buildup was used by drag racers to raise compression to increase performance in fact they also used to sand blast the tops of the pistons and the combustion chamber of the heads to create a rough surface that carbon loved to stick too I personally wouldn't do that but it was the cheapest way to raise the compression even tho it wasn't much as we have modern ways with thinner head gaskets high comp. pistons and heads and definitely have my respect for using the original tools 👍
thanks for doing these videos. I find them enjoyable and informative.
Love your videos, and working with the original tools is just perfect
Looks good. Be careful using a steel brush on cast iron. It will put scratches in the surface. Also a head gasket made from modern material would probably last longer.
`These old cars are fascinating. As a child, I used to watch my father's friend work on his old model T and other cars.
I want a model T just to work on it, I love older cars they’re so simple to work on
Fab! Been watching vids of newer cars but nice to see something vintage and something so iconic as the Model T.
18:20 looks like a really happy engine
are those cast steel pistons? wonder how much better the engine would run if you put aluminum ones in
would that engine last long if you put turbo on it lol. like 5psi
e34Boat more like 20psi
e34Boat ehh your not gonna go fast unless your a badass at shifting an Unsynchronized trans
carburetor + flathead? not really a good turbo base, plus the fact that he only tightened those head bolts to 60n/m would just blow the pressure out the sides
This thing doesn't even have a typical manual or automatic transmission. It works with friction bands and is controlled by pedals instead of a shift lever.
A good idea would be to check both the block and head for flatness with a straight edge. When head gaskets leak, there's a reason. You might want to look into replacing the head bolts with studs. Good luck with your fine car.
I was fortunate there was no warping. The leak was due to a poorly done replacement by a previous owner, who didn't clean the block down before installing the new gasket. there was debris trapped between the gasket and the block. I was amazed it's taken all this time to start leaking. All fixed now though :)
the hardest part was starting the car, great video
I love how almost all repairs can be done with the one spanner that Ford gave you.
You can't do that with modern cars, not at all. Back then, even your nan could redo the head gasket on that car.
Another great video. I noticed you used a wire brush and not a scrapping tool to clean. The correct tool! Scrapers tend to make gouges which is not good. When I was working on my old Ford flatheads I learned the hard way about gouging the block surface with scraping tools.
James Rustermier, a steelbrush is even worse.... there all abrasive.
I looked at Model T engines before and they look fairly simple like that anyone can repair them without much mechanical knowledge
Steel wire brush puts scratches on the surface of the cast iron .shouldve used a brass one and brake cleaner would’ve clears carbon up in seconds
Do you know if the head bolts were ever replaced? I know that head bolts can actually stretch from use over time and cause the head gasket to fail and or the bolts can snap when your reinstalling them, I found that out from my dads 81 JEEP Cherokee. Awesome video though!
These cars never used torque to yield bolts...
He said 45 ft*lb, which is about a third of a modern engine. Well within yeild limits of such a bolt.
But, if you want to know for sure, run a nut the length of the threads. If the bolt has stretched, the nut will "hang up" and you won't be able to spin it with your fingers.
canuckguy worried what, you are afraid that head will blow up on you or what?
If f only modern cars were this easy. My grandfather used to own old cars like this and he told me once he had a Model T and during restoration he didn't have to remove the engine!
What likely happen the 1st time is someone thought if run the engine idle for 10 min. it's hot...far from the truth. Take your car out for a 3 hour or better cruise, let it sit over night then torque your head bolts. You probably could have solved the original leak by simply torquing down the head, bolt stretch isn't much of a concern because the torque is relatively low for the size of the bolts. With that in mind DO NOT OVER TIGHTIN. you can strip out the block and/or stretch out the threads in the block.
And an other thing any copper gasket is reusable as long as the surface isn't damaged or ripped. The gasket must be baked in an oven preferably, a hotplate will do. bake it for 2 hour's at 400 degrees Fahrenheit and it will expand to original thickness and allow it to cool down in the oven. do not use water to quench it as this will only harden the gasket defeating the purpose, and risk distortion.
can't overstress how critical the tightening of the head bolts really is, and using such as the sequence graph you included, and using an accurate, measured ft/lb technique. hope viewers take your advice. thanks.
Mitch ur vids are awesome and I've learnt so much about model ts
The coolant was green? I thought you only used plain water in these old engines?
I'm running a corrosion inhibitor, without glycol. The common consensus is that glycol raises the boiling point, and thus encourages over heating.
Mitch Taylor If you raise the boiling point, wouldn't water be able to hold and transfer more energy from cylinder to radiator vs plain water? Our oldest tractor is the 1940 Allis WC and it hasn't over heated under heavy load for long periods using glycol based coolant. But if you're trying to keep things period correct, I think Alcohol was used as an anti-freeze. I'll have to double-check that one with my grandpa. Now you've got my gears turning.
you can use coolant with any water cooled engine and with any radiator its better to use coolant because if you use nothing but water the inside of the engine can corrode after a while
zappy bear actually I believe straight water is most efficient at transferring heat. As long as you have pressure in the cooling system it will raise the boiling point of water though additives do raise the boiling point as well.
Alcohol eats rubber hoses and seals. Just ask anyone who ran regular gas with ethanol in it. SeaDoos had a huge problem with gas tanks and lines being destroyed by methanol in the gas.
last video i saw was "Ford Model T - How to Start & How to Drive" (7 years ago) and you still have the same clothes on!
are parts still available online?
Have you considered using a 6:1 compression head?
Debris Control-- 1) Project the block interior. Plug all passageways so as to not allow debris to invade. including the bolt holes! 2) Examin /clean/replace head bolts. Your work was properly done the aforementioned things are the modern pathways. this information is hard learned knowledge and should be applied today. enjoy
Enjoyed this Mitch!
Is it really safe to just wire brush your block surface and the top of the pistons? I'd be afraid to do that on my own car.
Hi Mitch. I was wondering if you checked the head for flatness in case of warping? Maybe not an issue with those engines. At any rate looks like Lizzie is ready for some more trips. Not much in the way to fix her up like the new cars these days :-)
I was also wondering , one more thing I have not seen that he has cleaned head surface.
It's much less prone for warping because its a cast iron also I think such old engine doesnt have much compression ratio comparing to new engines and you can get away with less precision
Surprised how easily those head bolts broke loose. 🙂👍
There's very little compression to overcome, so they aren't as tight as you might expect.
Since there are no dowel pins you can use a pair of old head bolts with head cut off as temporary dowel pins. Just to ensure that tha gasket won’t move.
thanks for the video i will now proceed to do the same on my model T THAT I CASUALLY HAVE IN MY BACKYARD LOL
You should never use a wire brush to clean around open pistons and valves. A small piece of wire could break loose in end up between the piston and cylinder wall and do damage.
prided yourself on the period correct wrench, but used a modern torque wrench aye? ;)
Yes... I cheated a tiny bit :)
And the video camera, lol
Torque wrenches were a rare item a hundred years ago. The factory probably had them, but not very many other people. This cast iron stuff was pretty forgiving. Most mechanics a hundred years ago would just tighten the head bolts "GoodAndTight" by hand and by "feel".
@@scdevon That's what I do on lawn mower headgasket's
This is amazing
Lol , love the Kookabara laugh on the background
very good toy for weekends
Regards from Brazil
Is that an Iron block?
really cool videos my friend!
Hi, where did you find the spare part?
How many miles are on the car
I newer start with more than 10Nm always around 10Nm and then 20/ 30Nm , 50Nm and final tourque. When final is 20 -30Nm i start using 1 finger then up to 10Nm , 15Nm 20Nm and 30Nm
You should LS swap that thing
Ls swaps are so boring. he should w16 swap it :)
@@dmtracing56 make the hood longer and put a duesy engine in it XD
Wow! Good job and nice video, the hardest part was to start her up! Careful not to injure your wrist.
Mitch, does the Model T have an order for removing the head bolts?
It should be the reverse of the tightening sequence
Awsome intro :)
I was two minutes beyond it before I suddenly realised you pulled the new head gasket for a 100 year old vehicle out of a plastic wrapper, like you’d just popped down to your local car parts store and picked one up.
How hard is it getting parts for these?
28:57 I wonder how the electric starter ever got a foothold.
yes, after engine reassemble it usually does not start well
really enjoyed the video
Moroso ceramaseal, it's not like stop leak. When I ran copper gaskets on my small block they leaked like crazy around the head studs. This stuff permanently seals them after about 30 minutes running w/o a thermostat. I've used it on old tractors to newer cars that I couldn't get aluminum parts to seal from pitting. Never had any problems like plugged heater cores you get with stopleak. Best $20 fix for problems like this.
Period correct repairs seem interesting to watch. Thanks for the videos, cheers!
thanks for share, nice Ford!
15:35 the sound of a dog smelling your ear
Finally I’ve been looking for this video, haven’t been able to use my daily driver.
Nah, get that air impact out. Ingersoll Rand started experimenting with air impacts in 1934. Alot of thing started being experimented with longer before you think.
That was still about 9 years after this car was built lol
I would recommend investing in a speeder wrench
OK, so this is probably the most random comment you will get, but I have to ask. Are you originally from NZ? I am not an expert by any means, but your accent, inflections, and pattern remind me a lot of the NZ accent versus the traditional Aussie 'g'day mate'. And great job on the video! :)
Actually I was born in England, but moved to Australia when I was almost 7 years old... I have my mum to thank for the accent who still hasn't really lost hers haha!
Yeah I thought you might be a Kiwi too. Thanks for klearing that up, all is forgiven. He He.
are u from au
Very nice, thanks!
I find it strange that in this day and age engines are becoming harder to service than they were back in the days of the model T. It's a good 3 hour job just to get the head off of my car
MrcabooseVG it’s because everything is a lot tighter, it’s hard to put the wrench in to turn the bolt, 2 out of three hours you are fitting the wrench and turning the bolt and nuts, it takes three hours to do an oil pan gasket on my Golf GTI.
Shouldn't you loosen all the head bolts before taking them out to prevent warping the head instead of taking one out ar a time? That's the way I was taught and modern heads are a lot thicker than that head
u could eat your dinner of that engine grate work mitch big fan of your vids frankie jacques 37 london uk
I would love to daily one for a few days a week.
Who needs cars when we have horses, they're easy on gas :P
SUHC - "Single Under Head Cam" - I'm making this up.
Nice job Thanks
I was bouta say you dumb if you left those pistons like that , but good thing you cleaned them off idc what engine it is I always clean the carbon off the pistons when I'm putting the head back on
De carbonizing piston tops in an older engine is sometimes not a good idea. It can induce oil consumption.
After watching this, I had to know how many places sell head gaskets for a Model T Ford and sure enough, there are a lot.
Andew70 it said it was like 57$ USD for an entire engine gasket kit that comes with a head gasket as well.. even with inflation that is cheap
I wish someone would make a pour mans car with that kind of simpleness under the hood for me.
geo metro xp
Why was it so much more difficult to start at the end of this video, than in the first video when you introduce this car>>
Use a brillo pad on the cylinder head!
This has to be the easiest head gasket job in the world.
What's carbob?
fantastic!
You know snap on were making socket sets by now right ? Nice video all the same though
Wow you have the latest model T ? You're a lucky young man! I'm gonna order one as soon as I return from titanic cruise! What could have happen?
Those look like high compression pistons with the domes on them.....great grand pa may have been a speed freak....
Dude you need an air compressor yesterday. Oil is your friend and is cheap. Use it to grab dirt and debris not solvents. Regardless good job.
Lmao hes giving instuctions like anyone here has one, still love a good lesson about what made cars today
Great video but please get a coupon mic as your a little quiet
Four cylinder, coil for each cylinder, just like the new cars but much easier to work on and can go places Toyota's can't.
name one place where it can go and a toyota can't
eee
Classic car shows
The future
whats carbob buildup? is that the Australian way of spelling carbon?
hahahaha OMG I just saw that.... its a typing error - B and N are next to each other on the keyboard lol
Silly