New SUBSCRIBER. So glad your video popped up. Great info! Bought a spool of hobby came but didn't know how to work it properly. Your projects are beautiful and motivate me to keep learning and working to improve. THANKS so much.
Really useful video - Thank you!! I've only ever used Lead came and done fully leaded panels or fully foiled, but will start using hobby came now around my smaller items as it looked lovely! How do you decide whether to edge your panels in Lead or zinc? If you have used lead throughout, would you then edge in zinc or leave it all lead? And I do quite a few oval panels / window hangings out of lead or foil that need a chunkier border than hobby came - as they are curved and I don't have a bender, should i maybe just stick to 1/8th lead? I'm in the Uk and the suppliers seem to focus more on lead?
It all depends on the size and shape of panel or pieces for me. If square or rectangle i prefer zinc, perportionate to the size 8x10 = 1/8" zinc, 18" x18" i would use 1/4" or 3/8", larger panels i would use 3/8" or 1/2". Same with lead borders, it's all about proportions, small is hobby came, then larger lead for larger pieces. (Sorry, I dont know the metric equivalent).
I use a notcher on 1/8" zinc which makes a perfect 45 degree miter. For larger zinc, I always run the vertical side zinc from top to bottom and insert between them the top/bottom zinc. This helps transfer the weight of the panel all the way from top to bottom as well as a place to "bury" in my hangers (if not using a wood frame or inserting directly into the window space). As far as overlap/flat butt together vs 45 cut.... it's all going to be soldered over, so you won't see either one. The only time I would miter a 45 degree seam (VERY rarely) is if the corners might be seen (usually hanging high enough that you can see the corners) but most people don't even think about it.... they're looking at the window. Hope this all makes sense.
Hi Sandy, My name is Sandy too! Although I have been doing Stained Glass of well over 32 yrs, I have never done a "leaded panel" & my granddaughter/hubby have asked me to do one for their LR. I did, one time yrs ago, attend a "lead class", but, the instructor told me I did not need him; just practice. So, my ? is: approx size of the panel is: 24"x 36"; what size H came should I use on the inside? Thanks for any help. I usually do "copper foil" specializing in "fan lamps and stepping stones"; only problem with the stepping stones, which I have esentially stopped making, is the deer! We live in the mountains; I made a 5 stone "Peacock" stepping stone set; they ruined it!
I would probably use 7/32 or 1/4" depending on design. Remember, there is no fudging with lead - glass has to be cut perfect. On Facebook, there is a guy named Jerry E England that has some great videos on lead work- its definitely worth the time to watch as he gives lots of tips! That is going to bea very large and heavy window, definitely have it framed in wood
Thank you! So after stretching lead came my book said not to bend it. I have a half round window and I shaped lead came. Do I have to stretch it and then form it onto the curved edge? Love to see a video on that!
Hello I am a glass fuser just learning how to hang pieces using soldering. I'm making a 10" round circle fully fused but needs edge and loops. Do you recommend lead or zinc? The glass is single thickness fused edge. The only other time I did this with double thick and pretty wide zinc in a rectangle. A bit intimidated by the circle. Thanks so much and also for the great video and education.
Fused glass is typically 6mm thick vs 3-4mm thick for stained glass; therefore is MUCH heavier. Because of the thickness of fused glass, you will not be able to fit it in the standard channel thickness of either lead or zinc (made for 4mm). I can only recommend talking with a local woodworker or cabinet shop and have a wood frame custom made for it, in which you can then add hangers made for wood frames. Hope this helps. 😊
do you have to came or frame around the outer edge of each piece? When would you not want to or need to frame a project? I am working on a round window that will go in a wood frame - would that need came on the perimeter?
Yes, I would put 1/8" zinc around it, if nothing else to give it a good solid edge. Technically if it's going into a wood frame you wouldn't need to, but I want to give my cabinet maker a break and easier for them as well.
sometimes it's easier to gently and slowly roll the stained glass & zinc along the table - very slowly rocking it back and forth to form the shape around the glass .
This was so helpful. Only video I could find describing the different kinds of came!
So glad this helped. I've learned so much over my career, I wanted to do a "brain dump" to help explain what, why and how for others 😊
Thank you Sandy! I'm new to the caming and your video was clear, informative and simple enough to understand!
Glad it helped
so glad it helps. My motto: keep it simple and easy
New SUBSCRIBER. So glad your video popped up. Great info! Bought a spool of hobby came but didn't know how to work it properly.
Your projects are beautiful and motivate me to keep learning and working to improve.
THANKS so much.
glad it helps! Thank you
So very informative. Thank you.
Thank you, glad it helped
Thanks Sandy! Starting to play around with lead panels now. Use Hobby came on my tiffany method pieces but expanding my knowledge. This was helpful.
I need to get in gear and make a video on how to frame irregular shapes with hobby came. Not enough time in a day!
Thanks for the explanation. Very helpful.
Hi Sandy - great refresher for me!
So glad it helped - trying to do a "brain dump" so my knowledge and experience isn't wasted or lost. Hugs my friend.
Thank you for this tutorial any suggestions on a supplier
Always try and support your local glass shop
Also, could you show a scenario when you would need to use re-strip?
I only use restrip when pieces are 24" or larger
Really useful video - Thank you!! I've only ever used Lead came and done fully leaded panels or fully foiled, but will start using hobby came now around my smaller items as it looked lovely!
How do you decide whether to edge your panels in Lead or zinc? If you have used lead throughout, would you then edge in zinc or leave it all lead? And I do quite a few oval panels / window hangings out of lead or foil that need a chunkier border than hobby came - as they are curved and I don't have a bender, should i maybe just stick to 1/8th lead? I'm in the Uk and the suppliers seem to focus more on lead?
It all depends on the size and shape of panel or pieces for me. If square or rectangle i prefer zinc, perportionate to the size 8x10 = 1/8" zinc, 18" x18" i would use 1/4" or 3/8", larger panels i would use 3/8" or 1/2". Same with lead borders, it's all about proportions, small is hobby came, then larger lead for larger pieces. (Sorry, I dont know the metric equivalent).
nice tut on the came thx! Do you have preference or suggestions on overlapped frame or 45 cut corners?
I use a notcher on 1/8" zinc which makes a perfect 45 degree miter. For larger zinc, I always run the vertical side zinc from top to bottom and insert between them the top/bottom zinc. This helps transfer the weight of the panel all the way from top to bottom as well as a place to "bury" in my hangers (if not using a wood frame or inserting directly into the window space).
As far as overlap/flat butt together vs 45 cut.... it's all going to be soldered over, so you won't see either one. The only time I would miter a 45 degree seam (VERY rarely) is if the corners might be seen (usually hanging high enough that you can see the corners) but most people don't even think about it.... they're looking at the window. Hope this all makes sense.
@@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks very cool thanks for all the insight!
Hi Sandy, My name is Sandy too! Although I have been doing Stained Glass of well over 32 yrs, I have never done a "leaded panel" & my granddaughter/hubby have asked me to do one for their LR. I did, one time yrs ago, attend a "lead class", but, the instructor told me I did not need him; just practice. So, my ? is: approx size of the panel is: 24"x 36"; what size H came should I use on the inside? Thanks for any help. I usually do "copper foil" specializing in "fan lamps and stepping stones"; only problem with the stepping stones, which I have esentially stopped making, is the deer! We live in the mountains; I made a 5 stone "Peacock" stepping stone set; they ruined it!
I would probably use 7/32 or 1/4" depending on design. Remember, there is no fudging with lead - glass has to be cut perfect. On Facebook, there is a guy named Jerry E England that has some great videos on lead work- its definitely worth the time to watch as he gives lots of tips! That is going to bea very large and heavy window, definitely have it framed in wood
Wish you had these things listed below, but very informative. TY
Thank you! So after stretching lead came my book said not to bend it. I have a half round window and I shaped lead came. Do I have to stretch it and then form it onto the curved edge? Love to see a video on that!
Yes, stretch to straighten, then form around your item, tacking as you go
@@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks thank you!!
When would H zinc came be used for foiling tiffany method?
Some companies such as door and window manufacturers, use zinc instead of lead
Hello I am a glass fuser just learning how to hang pieces using soldering. I'm making a 10" round circle fully fused but needs edge and loops. Do you recommend lead or zinc? The glass is single thickness fused edge. The only other time I did this with double thick and pretty wide zinc in a rectangle. A bit intimidated by the circle. Thanks so much and also for the great video and education.
Fused glass is typically 6mm thick vs 3-4mm thick for stained glass; therefore is MUCH heavier. Because of the thickness of fused glass, you will not be able to fit it in the standard channel thickness of either lead or zinc (made for 4mm). I can only recommend talking with a local woodworker or cabinet shop and have a wood frame custom made for it, in which you can then add hangers made for wood frames. Hope this helps. 😊
do you have to came or frame around the outer edge of each piece? When would you not want to or need to frame a project? I am working on a round window that will go in a wood frame - would that need came on the perimeter?
Yes, I would put 1/8" zinc around it, if nothing else to give it a good solid edge. Technically if it's going into a wood frame you wouldn't need to, but I want to give my cabinet maker a break and easier for them as well.
Are there considerations for putting patina on zinc or hobby came? Do they need to be tinned first? Thanks
No just clean so maybe steel wool or Brasso they will only patina black and a lot of people on Facebook are using gun blue I've never used it
If you're on Facebook join the group stained glass tips and techniques and there's a topic there about patina and zinc
Do u need to stretch zinc or just the lead? Thanks
Just lead, zinc is rigid
Could you use U-shaped lead came on a square piece? Or would it be better to use somehing different?
I would use 1/8" or 1/4" zinc. Easier to apply and more rigid, and will look better than lead
@@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks thank you!
Any tips or tricks for copper patina on hobby came?😬
Lead came will only turn darker, won't take copper.
Do you just solder to close circle?
Yes 😊
I tried making an oval once with the came bender......just wasted my zinc🤐
ovals are not fun, especially if they are small....
sometimes it's easier to gently and slowly roll the stained glass & zinc along the table - very slowly rocking it back and forth to form the shape around the glass .
I'm about to came
Its not bad, just take your time and work a little at a time. No worries, no hurries 😊
I saw that an artist used 1/2" H came as a border. Why ?