Looks like you guys really get into the swing of things after about 6:30. Loved that almost casual swaying void by Nick at around 6:38. Makes for a pretty awesome stillshot if you freeze it at the right moment. I thought the play at 7:14 was really interesting. Nick briefly eschews the typical narrow profile stance favored in British military saber in favor of a wide stance, I suppose in order to bait an attack to the open side, then side steps and countercuts to the head. Very cool!
+Victor Harder Hesel polish blacksmith Damian Tylko. Sabres are very nice, and they are really cheap. Recommendation depends on how do you want to use them and what are you expecting. I defenitely consider it money well spend.
+Artur Augustyniak How do they hold the edge? Bought a couple of sabres from Damian Tylko in the past and tempering quality varied vastly: some blades seem to be undestructible, while others developed nasty nicks (no pun intended :-) ) from any slightest edge to edge contact.
+Sergio Reig Damian Tylko in Poland. I wouldn't recommend them quite yet. They have been fun, but are not perfect. Poland is one of the best places to go for smiths to make Georgian type sabres, as their own Polish sabres are so similar. I currently have orders with several other smiths in Poland and Czech Republic, reviews will follow in time as we give them thorough testing.
Ok, so a polish-style would be fine? I wrote Regenyei months ago asking for his stock and I saw two polish sabers. Maybe he would be a good provider Thanks for the quick answer
+Sergio Reig Polish sabres are often very close. Some have thumb rings on the side which British sabres do not. Regenyei Polish sabres have this ring, which is not ideal. I have seen the photos of the ones he is doing, and they look okay, but I would not trust the knucklebow. He has not connected them to the pommel, and I know from plenty of experience that is not good for durability long term. Many Polish smiths will make you a simple sabre like in this video. Just be wary of the fact that many make them to cavalry specification, and that means they are much heavier than the infantry type that we practice for. Basically go to a Polish smith and ask for a blade length of around 80cm. A total weight of 700-850 grams, no thumb ring, and a grip long enough to accommodate large gloves, I find 12cm to be about right. Balance should be around 13-15cm ideally. The ones in this video are 19cm, which is the same as a British light cavalry sword.
+JNC5297 I have not seen his range of feders, but I have experience with many other swords in his range of blunt swords, and I would say do not bother. They are clumsy and badly proportioned blades with ugly looking hilts. Let me know what sort of sword you want (feder, blunt, etc) and for what purpose and I'll give some advice on something better. Best place to start though would be Peter Regenyei.
Thank you very much for your response. The sort of sword I would like to have is a replica of two handed sword "ice" from game of thrones(even though is a fantasy sword the sword is quite simple), but that handles like a proper sword (if possible) and that is relatevely cheap. If it is not possible or to high for my pocket I will go with a bastard sword that handles properly. Again thank you for your consideration.
+JNC5297 I would avoid going for anything fantasy. Almost all the manufacturers of them make junk that not only looks bad, but handles terribly. Stick with a good smith and get something good. Peter Regenyei is overall your best bet for blunt longswords.
Excellent duel! i think they could work on telegraphing their attacks less if i were to offer a piece of constructive criticism. doing quick and harder-to-read cuts from the wrist might've been of benefit to them
The movement of the weapon in this video is largely due to the type of sabre we are using. With a balance of a 1796 light cavalry sabre, it is really slow and clumsy to cut quickly from static guards, like you can with a Pob of 10-15. So often you will see cuts initiated that are feints of doubling up of cuts. They can especially look telegraphed on film because it looks like there is a long time from initiating to landing, but everything that happens in between is lost.
Interesting. Seems like there's also a lot of knee-work, since saber fighting doesn't appear to involve alot of actual footwork but is more about thrusting and maneuvering, as in fencing.
+Kaleb H Some sabre styles, there are a great many. Roworth as we teach from uses frequent withdrawing of the lead leg, both to the hell of the other, and a full passing step back. He also uses passing steps for some actions. Go to Polish sabre using similar swords and there is a lot of footwork too. The concept of a more static lower body and lots of thrust work is mostly from much later sources.
Oh I see, that's very interesting. Is sport fencing with a sabre similar to historical sabre fencing as you practice? I would think sport fencing would moreso reflect the later methods you mention.
+Kaleb H Sport sabre is very different from the style we teach, and still far from the later period military sabre. It is derived from a form of duelling sabre. The fact that the lower body is off target changes things substantially. Also, the blade is longer than any infantry sabre. They are also straight, and incredibly light. This lightness means that they are manipulated with flick actions to cut, and therefore you see very little rotational work as it necessary with heavier blades, and to develop power. Also they are not allowed to pass their feet in sport sabre, meaning there is no typical closing or retreating steps using passing footwork, and they have developed the rather odd 'flunge'.
I don't even use sabre and I love watching sparring vids featuring them.
Such quick, fluid strikes.
Looks like you guys really get into the swing of things after about 6:30. Loved that almost casual swaying void by Nick at around 6:38. Makes for a pretty awesome stillshot if you freeze it at the right moment. I thought the play at 7:14 was really interesting. Nick briefly eschews the typical narrow profile stance favored in British military saber in favor of a wide stance, I suppose in order to bait an attack to the open side, then side steps and countercuts to the head. Very cool!
6:40 Quite a fun exchange there, noticed quite a few sparks :D
Lovely exchanges. I like the occasional sparks haha.
Between 01:05-01:10 there was a real flashy action movie scene move going on the left background , risky in reality but looked very cool and fun :)
Those sabres look very nice! Where did you get them and would you recommend them? :)
+Victor Harder Hesel polish blacksmith Damian Tylko. Sabres are very nice, and they are really cheap. Recommendation depends on how do you want to use them and what are you expecting. I defenitely consider it money well spend.
Can you link a website I can't find any thing
Yes, what are the links, and what is the cost? Are the sabres steel or aluminum?
+D Fraser I only got his email address (d2t2@o2.pl). I cost £130 with shipping to UK..
+Artur Augustyniak How do they hold the edge? Bought a couple of sabres from Damian Tylko in the past and tempering quality varied vastly: some blades seem to be undestructible, while others developed nasty nicks (no pun intended :-) ) from any slightest edge to edge contact.
What gloves are you wearing in this video? Are these good for full contact sparring with open hilt sabres?
Where did you get those new seel training sabres? The weight, curvature and balance of this saber sounds excellent.
Great assault! Where did you get this sabers? I'm only finding "Victoria like" models
+Sergio Reig Damian Tylko in Poland. I wouldn't recommend them quite yet. They have been fun, but are not perfect. Poland is one of the best places to go for smiths to make Georgian type sabres, as their own Polish sabres are so similar. I currently have orders with several other smiths in Poland and Czech Republic, reviews will follow in time as we give them thorough testing.
Ok, so a polish-style would be fine?
I wrote Regenyei months ago asking for his stock and I saw two polish sabers. Maybe he would be a good provider
Thanks for the quick answer
+Sergio Reig Polish sabres are often very close. Some have thumb rings on the side which British sabres do not. Regenyei Polish sabres have this ring, which is not ideal. I have seen the photos of the ones he is doing, and they look okay, but I would not trust the knucklebow. He has not connected them to the pommel, and I know from plenty of experience that is not good for durability long term.
Many Polish smiths will make you a simple sabre like in this video. Just be wary of the fact that many make them to cavalry specification, and that means they are much heavier than the infantry type that we practice for.
Basically go to a Polish smith and ask for a blade length of around 80cm. A total weight of 700-850 grams, no thumb ring, and a grip long enough to accommodate large gloves, I find 12cm to be about right. Balance should be around 13-15cm ideally. The ones in this video are 19cm, which is the same as a British light cavalry sword.
+Academy of Historical Fencing Perfect! Thank you very much for the info.
By the way, great channel
Greetings from Barcelona
I was considering to buy a Fabri armorum custom made two handed sword. Does anyone know something about quality, price and requirements of the dealer?
+JNC5297 I have not seen his range of feders, but I have experience with many other swords in his range of blunt swords, and I would say do not bother. They are clumsy and badly proportioned blades with ugly looking hilts. Let me know what sort of sword you want (feder, blunt, etc) and for what purpose and I'll give some advice on something better. Best place to start though would be Peter Regenyei.
Thank you very much for your response. The sort of sword I would like to have is a replica of two handed sword "ice" from game of thrones(even though is a fantasy sword the sword is quite simple), but that handles like a proper sword (if possible) and that is relatevely cheap. If it is not possible or to high for my pocket I will go with a bastard sword that handles properly. Again thank you for your consideration.
I forgot to mention that the sword will be for decoration and dry handling. No intention of sparring. Only practising a few techniques very carefully.
+JNC5297 I would avoid going for anything fantasy. Almost all the manufacturers of them make junk that not only looks bad, but handles terribly. Stick with a good smith and get something good. Peter Regenyei is overall your best bet for blunt longswords.
Thank you very much for your advice. I will go with Peter Regenyei.
Excellent duel! i think they could work on telegraphing their attacks less if i were to offer a piece of constructive criticism. doing quick and harder-to-read cuts from the wrist might've been of benefit to them
The movement of the weapon in this video is largely due to the type of sabre we are using. With a balance of a 1796 light cavalry sabre, it is really slow and clumsy to cut quickly from static guards, like you can with a Pob of 10-15. So often you will see cuts initiated that are feints of doubling up of cuts. They can especially look telegraphed on film because it looks like there is a long time from initiating to landing, but everything that happens in between is lost.
+Academy of Historical Fencing I see! They both did a great job either way.
Reminds me of the final boss fight of uncharted 4
I bet your wrists have to be strong and dexterous to fight like this.
+Kaleb H Yep, the strain is mostly on the forearm, though it can move up to the tricep and shoulder if you start cutting more like the Poles do.
Interesting. Seems like there's also a lot of knee-work, since saber fighting doesn't appear to involve alot of actual footwork but is more about thrusting and maneuvering, as in fencing.
+Kaleb H Some sabre styles, there are a great many. Roworth as we teach from uses frequent withdrawing of the lead leg, both to the hell of the other, and a full passing step back. He also uses passing steps for some actions. Go to Polish sabre using similar swords and there is a lot of footwork too. The concept of a more static lower body and lots of thrust work is mostly from much later sources.
Oh I see, that's very interesting. Is sport fencing with a sabre similar to historical sabre fencing as you practice? I would think sport fencing would moreso reflect the later methods you mention.
+Kaleb H Sport sabre is very different from the style we teach, and still far from the later period military sabre. It is derived from a form of duelling sabre. The fact that the lower body is off target changes things substantially. Also, the blade is longer than any infantry sabre. They are also straight, and incredibly light. This lightness means that they are manipulated with flick actions to cut, and therefore you see very little rotational work as it necessary with heavier blades, and to develop power. Also they are not allowed to pass their feet in sport sabre, meaning there is no typical closing or retreating steps using passing footwork, and they have developed the rather odd 'flunge'.
COOOL! :D
and 4 seconds in you both get killed by bayonets :)
A week ago, I would not have understood what you meant. Then I tried Mount & Blade Warband Napoleonic Wars.
+HebaruSan Needs more nerf.