Important for Switch Pro users: These pair of joysticks were sent as a test unit. On the packaging it says this pair is compatible with both Switch Pro and Dualsense controllers. However during the testing, issues have come to light with this pair on the Switch Pro. Gulikit is working on fixing this and will bring out a seperate package with different joysticks specifically for Switch Pro controllers, instead of bundling them with the Dualsense. Meanwhile, Switch Pro has been removed from promotional pictures, boxes that have been made are now covered with a sticker so it only shows DualSense controllers and new boxes will only have DualSense compatibility printed. When they resolve the issues, the new Switch Pro TMR joysticks will be back through testing and on the market again. Edit: AKNES estimates the Switch Pro TMR joysticks to be on market in 30 days. There have not been any issues found with the DualSense version, so this one in the video is leaving its testing phase and is shipped to Amazon to be sold. Edit 2: They are now sold in a separate package with different voltages, so make sure to select the correct joystick when purchasing these for your Dualsense or Switch Pro. There will be a video for the Switch Pro controller installation shortly on my channel too.
@lxerol They are now available for the Switch Pro controller as well. I edited my pinned comment too. New video will be published soon for Switch Pro replacement.
Thank you! The gun makes it a whole lot easier I will say that. Though, another trick I use is that I keep the rubber cap on the joystick while soldering, so that I have something to hold onto from the back. Otherwise I would have to press on the metal box which gets hot when soldering the pins and there is less space on the box to keep your finger.
So you like to hold it from the back lol jk - that reminded me of that video with the barber when he said” so do you want me to get you from the back?”
Impressive soldering skills. I managed to changed my sticks successfully but before that I wasted 3 controllers lol. I think soldering takes a lot of practice and patience.
I have been there too haha. I broke several controllers while I was still a beginner at soldering. I still have the motherboards in case I ever get good enough to fix them
How different from the stock potentiometer sticks does it feel? People often complain about input delay and lack of precision in these electromagnetic sticks, especially on FPS games.
@@CrustyMusty101 I noticed that they are faster than the original potentiometers and more accurate. I’ve already installed these in 10 ps5 controllers. They are smoother and the thumbsticks Gulikit provides are way better than the original Sony thumbsticks
Very disappointing indeed. Sony and other companies just want consumers to buy more controllers after their first one breaks. I'm glad other companies like Gulikit has come out with these permanent fixes to show first-party companies that it is possible.
@@djBaro_official This is because, as usual, console makes actually lose money even when selling the consoles. They need to sell games and accessories in order to make up for the loss. Business-wise it makes sense but ethically it absolutely doesn't.
Thanks the guide. I am no professional but managed to do the work. My DualSense controller was under warranty but retailer was asking to bring my PS5 with all accessories and leaving it for 15 days in order to fix my controller. The warranty was for entire package, was their reasoning. I want to bring into attention that desoldering in verry difficult without proper tools. The unleaded high temperature melting solder, tight holes and double sided soldered pins makes this job difficult. I almost destroy the circuit board trying to desolder with a soldering iron@ 450 C and solder pump. I was borrowing a hot air soldering station from a colleague and made some shields from a aluminum beer can, in order to protect the nearby plastic connectors. The desoldered joysticks melted a bit. Please, do not attempt to do this job without proper tools. You will ruin your controller.
I'm glad the guide had helped you. Great to know you managed at the end. And yes! It is important to use the correct tools for this. The beer can is quite a creative way to do it. Aluminium foil could have also helped if you do not have the special kapton tape for hot air soldering. It is common that the base of the joystick melts when using a hot air station, you can scrape off the plastic easily though, or leave it if you don't want to risk damaging the motherboard
I used the maximum temperature this desoldering gun allows, which is 480 degrees Celcius. do be careful, this is higher than what may be necessary, but I am used to it and don't keep the tip on the motherboard for a long period of time.
That is true, it is easier. The metal joystick housing from Alps are compatible with the TMR sensors and magnets. You will notice an increase in circularity error however. Close to 10% or 12%. I personally am not a fan of that, so I wouldn't do it. However, I can understand it is a daunting soldering task to take apart the entire joystick for beginners in soldering. I hope my next video I am working on can help with that. I want to show various ways to desolder the joysticks, also with different price ranges. I am saving up to buy all the tools I need now, as I don't have everything yet. And tomorrow I should receive some of the tools, so I can start recording already pretty soon!
You can use the original caps. I have noticed (at least with the Dualsense TMR) it does influence the circularity. So, make sure to recalibrate when swapping between them, even if you have calibrated it before with the other thumb caps. Then it should be exactly the same.
Can I use original DualSense caps, or will they not fit? You used the GuliKit caps provided in the box, but placing the original DualSense caps isn't an option here?
What black magic are you using to solder multiple pins at the same time without them bridging the connection 👀? Is that related to the type of flux you are using? (I am just starting my journey of experimenting with soldiering and I have a few projects I want to try with this being one of them when/if my DualSense Controller starts to drift)
Hahah black magic is called science 🤓 It is mainly 2 things that help making it possible. Flux is one of them, as long as you use some sort of flux, it should be better than no flux. The other component allowing me to touch all three isis the chisel/knife shaped soldering iron filled with loads of solder. That shape of a soldering tip is easier to work with for these pins.
@@djBaro_official An thank you for the tips, also for desoldering the original sticks do you think a copper braid would also work ? Cause I don't think I have enough spare money for something like a desoldering gun 😅. That said luckily it isn't urgent since my controller doesn't have drift yet and I personally prefer not to risk breaking it until it does :D But I still like to watch videos like this to inform me early on what is possible for self repair and to keep feeding myself reasons to learn proper soldering with small electronics :D
It is harder with copper braid but definitely doable. Make sure to buy copper braid that has flux/rosin in it, makes a lot of difference in "sucking potential" lol. Also what will help is adding flux on the braid/on the pins you want to de-solder, add tiny amount of solder to the tip of the iron to transfer the heat better, then start de-soldering. For the 3 pins of the potentiometer, you can get away with a different method: First flip open the potentiometer so you can wiggle it back and forth. Similarly to how I heat up all 3 pins at the same time to solder them on, you can add solder to your soldering iron (with chisel tip, works the best), then heat up all three pins at the same time. You can then wiggle out the potentiometer while heating the pins. Afterwards, you will be left with the holes only full of solder, which you can then remove with the braid. Another cheap alternative to the copper braid would be a manual solder pump. I highly suggest if you choose this, choose one with replaceable silicon tips. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! These longer tutorial types of videos are also new for me, and I am very happy with how it turned out. If you have more suggestions to disassemble/fix, let me know and I can record it next time I see that particular defect!
"Black magic" lol I swear i tried it and bridged all 3 joints I had to start all over wish I could show a pic of how it came out it looks crazy but I did it and it it works flawlessly lol
Even though hall effects exist for longer in joysticks (and should be more matured), I have had many issues calibrating them; they wouldn't give a good circularity. Maybe twice I have had a near perfect circularity with them, all other times the corners would overshoot by a lot, or would need some extra work to calibrate correctly, I may do a video about that when I have hall effect joysticks that require that extra work to be calibrated well. As you can see in this video, TMR joysticks were calibrated easier. The circularity is great. Someone in AKNES' Discord did a test for the latency. The latency on these are on par with potentiometers and Favor Union hall effect joysticks, where as Ginful "v5" hall effect (everyone calls them v5, but is marketed wrong. It is actually v3.5, v4 is said to come out next month), has relatively more latency. So it depends per hall effect how much latency there is. If you want more in depth testing, check the UA-cam channel Metal Plastic Electronics, he has 2 videos on Ginful and Favor Union. The TMR latency tested by a Discord member is similar to that of the Favor Union. Assuming calibration went well with hall effects, then you have another factor, power consumption. This information below came from AKNES themselves: Original potentiometers use a constant 1mA, hall effects around 0.5mA ~ 2.0mA, and TMR 0.1mA ~ 0.3mA. So the average power consumption is lower on TMR. (Multiply the Amperes by the voltage of the controller to get the power consumption.) Ignoring the latency aspect, which imo is negligible, if there happen to be a hall effect with good calibration and 0.1mA ~ 0.3mA power consumption, then there would be no difference between hall effect and TMR.
I used the maximum temperature it can, 480 degrees Celsius. Not something I typically recommend, but it allows me to have it on the motherboard for the shortest time possible, otherwise I have to keep a lower temperature on it for longer, especially for the ground pins on DualSense I struggle with them, on the DS4 it is easier with lower temperature as it is a thinner board.
At the moment the DSE is not compatible with the calibration website, it does fit on the DSE modules, but you will need a separate calibration board, or wait until DSE is supported in the calibration website.
@@djBaro_official thanks for the reply! I usually use 60/40 leaded Kester solder, but given these modern controllers use lead free I was wondering if I need to keep my iron tips separate.
Unintuitively, it is even easier to desolder the joysticks by adding more low melt solder or leaded solder to the joints. It will mix with the leadfree solder and lower the overall temperature to melt all the solder in a joint
e bought tmr joysticks for a ps5 controller and we desoldered the old ones and soldered the new tmr joysticks. All the buttons work and we are able to connect to a pc for calibration but the joystick values are wrong, with it moving all over the place with the right controller moving left even when at dead center and with also a really low and random circularity. What do you think we did wrong or what could be causing it?
If it is moving to the left (or to the top), you may have a cold joint on one of the three pins of the black sensor. Reflow the soldered pins with flux. Let me know if that resolves the issue, otherwise feel free to DM on discord: djBaro
The one in the video is an amtech 59 asm tf flux clone from ali express, obviously it is not the same flux as the original. I now use kingbo flux, also from ali express. If you want the original amtech 59 asm tf flux, which i highly recommend, Amtech changed their company name to Stirri. The new original name is Stirri asm tf flux. They sell it directly via their website
Been keeping an eye out for these sticks for a little while and I'm glad to see they're out and working great. I have a couple questions for you though, if you don't mind me asking; I do happen to have a heat gun, but I don't have very much experience with it. Ideally I would get some of that reflective foil tape to insulate other areas of the board, and also buy a solder wick for clean-up if I went that route, right? Other question is just which solder vacuum would you recommend if I went with that instead? It's pretty much impossible to trust reviews on Amazon considering how many terrible products have botted ratings (or hidden the bad ones).
With a heatgun, it is pretty much a necessity to have kapton tape, the reflective tape you mean, because there are a couple plastics near the joysticks. Wick or a (manual) solder sucker is needed to take out remaining solder from the holes. There is a roundabout way to do it without taking the solder out, by heating the pins up with the heatgun and put the TMR joystick back in its place while all holes are heated, it is easy to mess it up and install crooked so I don't recommend it. For your second question, I only have experience with a cheap 3 euro manual solder sucker which was really bad, and the electric one I am currently using Pro'skit SS331. I bought it on Ali Express for around 130 euro. I can only recommend that one as I have only been using that one. It comes with some spare filters and it has a ton of replacement parts if anything breaks and filters you can buy extra on AE too. Though for the filters, I just bought a cotton aquarium filter on AE too and cut it to size, it is cheaper. I have another video on my channel where I do a deepcleaning if you want to watch that one. If you buy it, make sure you buy the one with correct voltage to your country!
@@djBaro_official Gotcha. I know about kapton tape but I was referring to the kind that looks like tinfoil, where the less reflective side was the side with adhesive.. but I suppose at that point I could probably just use actual tinfoil?
Ah, my bad! I thought you meant kapton. I haven't tried (regular or adhesive) tinfoil to protect the motherboard as I don't own a heatgun, so I can't give you a proper answer if they are equally effective or not.
@@djBaro_official I see. In any case I recall the soldering kit I got a little while ago has one of those spring-loaded manual vacuums, so I'll probably just end up using that lol
@@djBaro_official it didn’t work for some reason still the chargers that I’m using show the connection but they don’t register , I tried chrome and edge any further suggestion
You don't have to, no. This video is mainly to showcase how to install (TMR) joysticks as a whole. If it is just stick drift to fix, you can install just one new joystick as a fix. Depending on what the cause of the stickdrift is, only replacing the potentiometer is sufficient. Or sometimes it is just dirty and needs cleaning, then clean the potentiometer with isopropyl alcohol.
I have 9 broken ones laying in my dormroom now lol. I am collecting the drifting controllers from anywhere I can and waiting until Gulikit fixes the last issues it encountered during TMR testing. Jim from Aknes estimated mid-october
Hi there, Great video. So you know if the original ps5 dual sense controller thumbstick fit on these modules please. Also can you buy the different height sticks for this module like the king Kong thumbstick kit? Many thanks in advance
Thank you! Original controller thumbstick fit on these joystick modules if you want to keep using those. You can also buy the King Kong thumbstick kit and use the different height joystick caps and take these stock ones off to install the longer or shorter one.
Deadzone depends more on the settings of the game you play it in, it's not tied to a specific joystick. I have tested the joysticks in a couple of games, mostly in Slime Rancher 2 and Horizon Forbidden West as I am playing through those now. In all of the tested games, except Rocket League, I was able to minimize the deadzone slider fully. In Rocket League, I had it on 0.03, if I go any lower I notice some jitter. (This is still impressively low!) I think it is because all games handle raw input differently, where Rocket League's 0 deadzone means actually 0, other games have a very small deadzone regardless if the deadzone setting is zeroed out.
They work with magnets similar to hall effects, so they will not have stickdrift or wear out. In theory magnets do lose their strength after a couple hundred years. You can always recalibrate it in that case if you survive that long (joking ofcourse, but you can recalibrate however many times you want). The only 2 things that can still wear is the spring and the button. I don't know how long they last, I would assume they are similar to Alps but I don't have exact numbers on those as these are still new. In my test sample (the one in this video), R3 button did fail after around 50 hours of game time, which is to be expected in test samples. I bought 3 more kits from Amazon which worked better, one of them felt a bit mushy though, and I have had no issues with my Dualshock 4 L3 / R3 buttons.
You can do that if you feel like that is worth it. I am personally going all in on these TMRs after having hands on experience with them. I think the one button that felt mushy is a factory defect that just slipped through the cracks, and in a test sample where things are expected to go wrong. After the testing phase I bought three pairs on Amazon from AKNES and 1 joystick button felt mushy, I told them about it and they immediately sent a new PAIR of joysticks, not just a single joystick. So, their customer service is good and I can confidently recommend it to others if you want to consider a permanent solution to stickdrift. Just to put it in perspective, you will likely have similar chances of getting mushy buttons out of the box if you buy Alps in bulk, but you will get stickdrift every now and then.
Yes, however only for Xbox Series controllers. I have another video where I install those. They are not compatible with older generation controllers, because the calibration tool provided in Xbox accessories only works for Xbox Series controllers.
I cannot give an apples to apples comparison because I also used the joystick caps that come with these, so obviously the feel is different to me. One thing I can say is that the R3 felt mushy after around 50 hours of game time, I have had no issues on my Dualshock 4 TMR sticks, and I bought more sticks from Amazon, of which 1 felt mushy out of the box and AKNES sent a new pair to me so that's good. I am guessing there may be some factory defects that slip through sometimes, but of the ones that do work, they feel good, better than my used up stock sticks.
hahahaha I also keep the thumbcap rubber on the joystick so I have something to keep to hold onto on the other side. It gives me more stability. At this point I am used to it so I feel comfortable doing it, but I can recommend a "helping hand" device or even better a pcb clamp so you can more safely remove the joysticks
DualSense joysticks left the testing phase and is released to the public already: www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8VG2BXD?th=1 The joysticks for the other controllers are still in the testing phase, but I think Gulikit already sells them on Ali Express as well. So far issues have come up with Switch Pro joysticks, so they have made it unavailable until it is fixed, but the rest you can buy from there. nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007307245843.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.61883fba336ozo&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2024%2C98%21%E2%82%AC%2017%2C34%21%21%2126.45%2118.36%21%40210388c917219466838626155e933e%2112000040180384919%21sh%21NL%210%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld. PS4 and Xbox Series controllers still need testers so you can also apply to be a tester and get them for "free" in return if you provide some test data.
Do you mean BDM 030? This is done on a BDM 030 in the video. The TMR and the calibration website is compatible with all motherboard versions of Dualsense controller. *This does not include the Dualsense Edge, DSE does not work.*
Yes, but they may sit a bit higher, causing them to rub on the inside of the front shell. If that happens, you need to take off some plastic from the joystick tip
You will need a different way to calibrate it, like a calibration board. the website in its current state does not work for DSE. Though the developer of the website is working on it.
Heating gun makes this way way easier lol. I keep the same solder where the pins are and pull thr old modual out, then heat it up, pop in the new one and done.
It says: "Direct replacement installation without circuit adjustment. However, for installation, soldering skills and tools are required. It's best to ask a professional for help if you don't have it." And later on it also says: "This replacement requires soldering tools and skills", and "Without requiring any circuit modifications" It is a easy to misread this. I think they specifically mean circuit modifying, the joysticks replacing is still a mod, but not necessarily modifying the motherboard circuitry. It is worded a bit weird though
@@djBaro_official yeah. I was stoked at first. I personally would consider de-soldering and then soldering a different component as a modification, as the stick modules are soldered to the main PCB.
I wish I had known they were now beginning to sell these units before buying the Ginful V5! Guilikit made it extremely unclear with their website, and X posts.. Though... It shouldn't be that much of a problem, the difference shouldn't be too noticeable.. At least to me, anyways.. I am so glad that we're finally getting proper Hall effect sticks, without those dodgy snake oil boards to eliminate the stickdrift problem. Upsetting how Sony ditched this technology after the PS3, those controllers were built like a beast withstanding even the harshest horseplay my child-self could give it 13+ years later.
The website does not support dualsense edge calibration yet. Though, people are working on cracking it. You can also calibrate it with a calibration board that you need to purchase separately. It is hard to install but that would make it possible
I do not know the resolution, but there is a similar question in their FAQ on Amazon: " Is the resolution of the TMR joystick much higher than Hall effect joysticks? No. For controllers, the bandwidth of these three types is sufficient. The resolution mainly depends on the sampling precision of the backend MCU So resolution, polling rate, and others will be same with the original. " I hope this helps you in some way
Yes I believe you can. Apologies for not mentioning that. Another thing to note is that the developer of the website is working on DualSense edge compatibility, so maybe in some time we don't need the boards anymore
It is the Kingbo rma 218 flux from Ali Express, but it is not the official formula, as with 99% of flux on Ali Express, off-brand. That one almost ran out, a friend gave it to me so I don't know which seller it was from. I purchased again Kingbo rma 218 afterwards, also from Ali Express, but I think from a different seller, this one is noticably also a different formula. You mentioned US Amazon. If you live in the US, I highly recommend buying Stirri asm tf flux directly from Stirri's website. It has great reviews, reputable brand, performs good, and is ROHS compliant, which you cannot guarantee to have from Ali Express flux. I would have bought that one if the shipping wasn't crazy high to the Netherlands.
@@djBaro_official Just ordered some! Thank you so much for the recommendation and thorough video! I'll definitely be back once everything arrives, hopefully by the end of this month I can get back to playing silent hill 2 on my favorite controller
Awesome. Thank you for the kind words. I am hoping to do more of these soon once I have more time away from university. Also waiting for some parts to arrive. I have about 10 DS5 controllers waiting for TMR sensors haha, gonna do them all in a stream most likely
@@djBaro_official Finally got them replaced! Took me a few days and I ended up just clipping my old control stick module off the board and then individually desoldering each pin and pulling them out one at a time. Just got the new sticks put on and calibrated and it's all up and running great! Thanks again for the video and the advice!
It is exactly the same as the one in the Gulikit KK set. Though, only the one shown in the video is included in the TMR box. You can take off the top half and insert a taller or shorter one if you buy the KK set caps.
Hello, the calibration website does not work on the DSE yet. The developer is working on it but until then, safe bet to say it is not compatible. You get the TMR to work on the DSE if you have a different calibration method, like a separate calibration board that you can purchase, then you can make it work.
hi These Hall Effect joysticks solve the drift problem. Do the TMR joysticks do the same? If so, what additional benefits do the TMR joysticks offer besides solving the drift issue like the Hall Effect joysticks? ty
Easier to calibrate, which makes them more accurate. Less jitter, next to non existent. Is more power efficient, so battery lasts longer. Latency is generally less than hall effect brands. It is on par with factory potentiometers and the Favor Union hall effect joysticks. Though, Favor Union hall effect has the downside that the circularity is not great. I don't know how much you'd notice the difference in latency, I don't notice it but I also don't play competitive shooters. Only competitive game I play now is Rocket League, still without noticing the latency.
@@djBaro_official Thank you for your quick response and for taking the time to provide such detailed information! I appreciate it. you didn’t mention whether TMR joysticks solve the drift problem like Hall Effect joysticks do. Could you clarify that for me? and where can i buy these TMR joysticks? (I live in France) Thanks again!
Yes you're right! I forgot to mention that. TMR also works with magnets like HE joysticks, so it is a permanent fix. You can buy them on Amazon via reseller AKNES.
Ali Express has multiple resellers and Gulikit sells directly on Ali Express too. But I will be honest I am biased because Aknes was the company providing these TMR joysticks to me for testing
Is Dual sense edge Compatible? The calibration tool work with dual sense edge? The normal dual sense can be updated for the last firmware on this tool?
As mentioned in another comment: You will need a different way to calibrate it, like a calibration board. the website in its current state does not work for DSE. Though the developer of the website is working on it.
They were available for a while. However Aknes pulled them out of Amazon two days ago and Gulikit official store on Ali Express too, because they found an issue that they need to fix before they can continue selling them. As soon as that is fixed, it will be available for purchase again
You can buy them on Amazon in the country you are from. I don't know what country you are from, so I cannot provide a link, but you can search "AKNES Gulikit TMR joysticks" and then pick the joystick for whichever controller you need it for
@@robertboucher8421i did it regardless it was my time soldering and my right stick was working i even calibrated it my left stick was not working because i had burnt the board when i was desoldering i did wanna go through the whole return process that’s why i try it
My dual sense got new TMR Sticks from gulikit. A professional installed them. He did the calibration stick and showed me the picture. Everything worked fine. When I got the controller today there is a major stick problem. Any solution? The sticks go permanently in one direction. You can only push them in 4 directions.
Hello, is it only going in the 4 corner directions? If so, then it might be miscalibrated as I see this often in the Discord server that people do not calibrate it correctly. On a Chromium based browser (Google Chrome or Microsoft Edge for example) go to dualshock-tools.github.io/ and connect your controller with a USB cable. You can follow the steps starting from 11:34. The part where many people make a mistake is when calibrating the stick range permanently, they do not rotate the joysticks and just click on 'done'. You must rotate the sticks for a good range calibration as shown in the video. Can you try this and leave a comment if it fixed your issue or not?
Is the calibration permanent? Is it actually stored in the controller or just the software on the computer? Does it work properly with PS5 or just on PC?
There are 2 modes of calibration in the website, temporary and permanent. Temporary makes it so that as soon as the controller is disconnected and looses power, the calibration changes are gone. Permanent calibration is stored on the controller and will be used even if it powered off and on again, meaning it carries on to the console as well. I hope that answers your question.
No, updating won't affect the permanent calibration. Though this goes for any joysticks, if your calibration is gone wrong or you notice an issue later down the line, you can simply just recalibrate again. Permanent calibration only means that it stays after being powered off. Calibrating it permanently a second time will override the previous permanent calibration.
The calibration website works on all motherboard versions of DualShock 4 and DualSense. Which calibration were you attempting, the center or range/circularity calibration? If it was the range, did you make sure to rotate the joysticks before finishing the calibration? That is a mistake that often happens. Which hall effect joysticks are you using by the way? The quality of the joysticks can also have an effect
@@djBaro_official i was using the tmr guli kit. i thought the left one was bad so u put a regular flavor union in and it does the same thing. its an aim controler. ive done other controlers with good results. i read another guy was having the same problem on reddit? i updated the controller a few days b4 i put them in
@@djBaro_official also its an aim controler when it was new it would glitch on psn when i would try to send messages .i couldnt navigate the keyboard it would glitch out but in a game everything would work fine
Do you mind sending me photos on discord how it looks like? You can DM me, my username is djbaro, or join my server discord.gg/RTytdcg. I am not understanding yet what the exact issue is and I might be able to help if I have some visual what the issue is.
Lekker bezig, hopelijk krijg ik het voor elkaar om mijn sticks te vervangen. Het terug solderen ging niet heel soepel, dus weer even netjes desolderen.
Ik heb de "Atten AT-989 soldeerstation" gekocht van Eleshop met soldeerpunten die ik van ali express gekocht heb hier: nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001976065102.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.107.806c79d2b6Wyzo&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld En mijn desoldeer station is de Pro'skit SS-331, ook van ali express.
Ik had het op de maximum temperatuur (480C) gezet zodat ik het niet lang op het moederbord hoef te houden. Het kan ook wel met een lagere temperatuur, misschien 350C oid, dan moet je het langer erop houden en soms opnieuw zuigen, dat probeer ik juist te voorkomen met een hoge temperatuur. Je moet er wel voorzichter mee zijn.
It depends to what extend your values change. Mine jitter too even in this video towards the end, but this is a normal amount of jitter. The same happens with any other joysticks. It is fine as I don't notice any in games I've played with it, which are Horizon forbidden west and Rocket League. HFW still has some deadzone you cannot disable. In Rocket League, which is better to test it with, you can fully disable deadzone if you wish, but I don't recommend it. Then you will notice the jitter. I have it at 0.04, which is still incredibly impressive to not notice anything. If however you get more jitter than that and do think it is an issue, i recommend contacting where you purchased it. AKNES has good customer support if you bought it from them, they gave me a new pair because one had a bad button. As far as I have been told Gulikit on Ali Express is also good with after sale service.
A way I have explained it in the past to others: These joysticks aren't some million euro components to a rocket ship to Mars that need pinpoint accuracy. In my opinion, small amounts of jitter like what you can see in the video here is acceptable for a consumer product, as this is still better than any other joystick I've used! I hope that perspective/mindset is clear. That said, if you notice it is a drastic issue in game and it jitters all over the place, then please contact where you purchased it for their after sales services as it can be a defect.
One question, is the installation easier for the Switch Pro Controller. Because I'm planning to buy a pair of these for mine. Also my controller got right stick drift a long time ago, so besides upgrading the joystick, I would be fixing the drift for the right one as well
As of right now, the joysticks are still in their testing phase, as I mentioned in the description. Several testers on AKNES's Discord server were having issues calibrating the joysticks on the Switch Pro. Gulikit decided to take down the Switch Pro versions temporarily until they fix this. Meaning, they don't advertise this to be compatible with the Switch Pro AND the DualSense, only the DualSense. They mentioned new tests may open afterwards for new Switch Pro joysticks, so if you join the server, you could sign up to get the improves ones sent to you for free when they get published. You will have to send them test results after installing them in return.
@@feintexp-2530Yes, AKNES said Gulikit has to change the joysticks so that it works with the Switch Pro. I haven't looked too much into it, as far as I know it is due to the voltage differences between the DualSense and the Switch Pro why they aren't interchangeable with the same pair of joysticks
I purchased 5 gulikit tmr ps5 joystick pairs, installed 4 pairs 2 are great 2 are faulty and stick to side if you move the thumb stick as of issue of tension or spring, dont know is it faulty or installing issue
Hey, coincidentally yesterday there was a discussion about similar cases in Aknes' Discord server. If it is a similar cause for you, what I think is the reason it happens is because the thumbcaps are sitting higher on the joystick module, causing friction between the thumb cap and the inside of the front shell. Could you try to verify if you have a similar situation? Two ways to test it: Press down on the joystick and move it around, does it feel the same or can you move it more freely? Second, swap to the original thumb caps and see if you have issues using that. To come back to if it is faulty or an installing issue. Before you do the steps I mentioned above, you should check if they are installed properly and flush on the motherboard. Disassemble your controller and look sideways to the motherboard, pay attention to the white plastic piece that is on the bottom of the joystick. If it is diagonal or sits too high, then you should desolder the stick and solder it back on while making sure to put pressure when soldering so that it is flat. I recommend leaving the thumb cap on it so you can put pressure on that. Lastly, if it is faulty, I think it is best to contact where ever you bought it for replacements, at least the thumb caps replacement which is most likely the root of the issue. If you bought from Aknes, you can contact them via Amazon/Ali Expres directly, or ask Jim in their Discord server: discord.gg/nZnk65CVr8. I had issues as well with a pair I bought from Aknes on Amazon. After I sent my order number and a video of it not working, Jim sent a new box of joysticks immediately no questions asked.
@@djBaro_official thanks a lot for valuable information's, went back back to discord server, one of the pairs turned out not to be faulty it was just was higher and dissembled the reassembled and works great, other one was faulty.
Awesome. Glad one of them turned to be good regardless. Perhaps also a lesson learnt with keeping pressure when soldering! Assuming you bought from Aknes, I hope Jim can help you out with the faulty one or where ever else you bought it
It works fine on the normal Dualsense. As of today, it will not work on Dualsense Edge. This might change as the website may be compatible with DSE in the future
Hey, I did not sign up for the Xbox Series joysticks test, as I do not own an Xbox controller. There may be others in AKNES's Discord that record their own tutorials for Xbox and / or Switch, I don't have any control on the tutorial of those controllers
ua-cam.com/video/AzkJkJS99XA/v-deo.html here is the video I just published for the Xbox series X controller! I decided to apply for that test as well after having read multiple comments asking for it, hope you enjoy.
There is no calibration website available for the Dualsense edge. So it is not compatible. I will consider recording a tutorial once it is possible to calibrate it
Dualsense Edge is not compatible with the calibration website yet. The website is open source and people are looking at ways to calibrate it, but right now, it is not compatible
Was it before or after calibration? If it happened before calibration, then you may need to check for cold joints on the potentiometers and reflow the three pins with flux. If it happened after calibration, then you may have not moved the joysticks in the circle when you were calibrating the stick range. You have to rotate and only afterwards press "Done". Let me know if you need further help. You can also send pictures to me of your soldering in my discord server, link is in description, maybe then I can help you out better.
Do you still have the old joystick? Can you check you didn't accidentally pull out the traces that go in the hole? Also make sure you calibrate and then check whether it works or not
Slight amount of jitter like that is normal. Even for new Alps potentiometers. That's nothing concerning. I think it is also partially due to how the website reads Sony controllers, it never shows any values between +0.00392 and -0.00392. So it rounds up or down
It is the Pro'sKit SS-331, I bought it from Ali Express. Just some tips in case you buy it: You get 3 different size tips, 1mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm. I use the 1mm for desoldering the joysticks. You also get some filters extra, which you can purchase more of seperately. However I found these filters quite expensive and I go through them quite quickly. So I bought an aquarium cotton filter and cut circles from it, which is significantly cheaper. If you want to buy it, please make sure you purchase the version with the correct voltage for your country. Hope it helps!
@djBaro_official basically the hall effect modules don't come pre centered. So you have to use a thin metal piece to poke into the holes and turn the stick until you center it. Takes practice. Look at tutorials.
Oh you mean like that. Ok I understand where the confusion comes from now. I am aware hall effects have this hole where you have to center it from. There are two reasons why I did not do that here. First, these are not hall effect joysticks - it's TMR joysticks that don't have the holes, it works differently. Secondly, I don't know if you watched until the end of the video, there I show how to calibrate the joysticks with different method. This website only exists since April 2024 or something, but this is the preferred way of calibrating hall effect sticks or any other joystick, because not only can you calibrate the center, you can calibrate the stick range (circularity) too, which you must do with TMR and hall effect joysticks to have a good circle. Ever since the website exists, there is no reason why one should use the pin and pin hole still, for hall effects specifically. Gulikit did not bother using pinholes for their TMR joysticks as the calibration website is quicker and more accurate
The Xbox Series compatible joysticks are also out, however as I do not own an Xbox controller, I did not sign up for testing those and do not have a video of it. Other testers may record their tutorial video for the Xbox controller, so if I happen to see a video of a tester, I will reply to your comment again with the link.
Another hreat way, is to simply purchase the controller from microcenter. Get their cheap warranty. When it breaks get it repaced at rhe store with a new one 👑👑💪 Warranty was only like 12 bucks.
I dont know much about microcenter, I'm from Europe. But for people who don't want to bother with soldering, and don't need the permanent fix, then it may be an ok thing to do. Though Sony also provides a year warranty
I am not affiliated with Gulikit and AKNES other than being a tester and recording this video for them, though I would be open for installing these for you if shipping and cost are not a concern. I live in The Netherlands, so that is where you would ship to/receive it back from. you can dm me on my instagram @barofix_en if you want.
@@djBaro_officialIs there any other way to contact you about sending my ps5 controller to you so you can install it for me as I don't use social media? Would also be able to replace the battery in my ps5 controller at the same time if I send you a battery as well?
@djBaro_official And I would like to ask. What is the situation in the resistance of the analogues from GuliKit? I learned that the Ginfull analogues and the stock Alps have the same resistance, while the green ones from Favor Union with hall effect have this resistance increased. And what is it like in the case of GuliKit? Are they like Ginful/ALPS or like Favor Union in terms of resistance?
Do you mean resistance needed to move the joystick around? I would say the gulikit is quite smooth or loose. Up to personal preference if you like that it feels loose or if you want one that is sturdier. Some also say that the Gulikit joystick is too loose that you move it around too easily in the center
I cannot tell if these are the best after two years, because new products from different brands that haven't come out yet can still outperform Gulikit ones. There are even new Favor Union Hall effects coming out and Ksilver is also making TMR joysticks. That said, TMR is still good whether 1 month later or 2 years later. The performance should not change and is currently the best option in my opinion. There are currently some issues, like rust formation on the joystick module, which should be fixed in batches made after October. So I recommend waiting with buying. Aknes on Amazon took out the product pages for the TMR, so you cannot buy from Aknes anymore, other third party sellers and Aknes on Ali Express still sell from the old batch, so be mindful and avoid those. Wait until Aknes puts their Amazon links back up, those will be from the newest batch
This one is only compatible with the Dualsense. They sell another variant for the ps4 controller, make sure to buy that one. You can find my other installation video here: ua-cam.com/video/kn-zdFN8Wm0/v-deo.html
I think you can send it to Sony for a free repair/replacement if you have the receipt. It has a year warranty, but they have also been sued for the planned obsolescence and lost, so I do not know if they have to replace drifting controllers for free now, just like Nintendo has to do so, though it is worth a shot assuming you played Forbidden West within the year warranty.
There is a discord server with other repair technicians I am in. Depending on the country you are in, maybe someone else in the discord group can help you out. It may be cheaper than buying a new controller later, or in case of TMR joysticks an upgrade. If it is something you are interested in, feel free to DM me on discord the country you are from so I can ask around. My discord username is djBaro
Haha, glad you like it! It is an electric desoldering pump. You have them in various price ranges and small or big. This one specifically is the Pro'sKit SS-331H. I bought it on ali express. If you do buy it, make sure you buy the one with the correct voltage for your country.
Sony is downright evil for selling controllers they KNOW will stop working in half a year, then offering a 200 dollar solution who's main selling point is replaceable analog sticks... which you will NEVER find at Walmart or Target because Sony never intended to produce enough to cover every shitty edge controller we were suckered into buying. I was hopeful the solution demonstrated in this video might be a way past this nonsense (I spent close to a grand on basic and edge ps5 controllers)... but when he got into the guts of that controller I noped out. I haven't the skill or inclination to go this route. Friggin sony, amirite?
From their perspective, they only see more money from accessories... I totally agree with you, it shouldn't be taking this much effort to own something that just plain works, period
Important for Switch Pro users:
These pair of joysticks were sent as a test unit. On the packaging it says this pair is compatible with both Switch Pro and Dualsense controllers. However during the testing, issues have come to light with this pair on the Switch Pro.
Gulikit is working on fixing this and will bring out a seperate package with different joysticks specifically for Switch Pro controllers, instead of bundling them with the Dualsense. Meanwhile, Switch Pro has been removed from promotional pictures, boxes that have been made are now covered with a sticker so it only shows DualSense controllers and new boxes will only have DualSense compatibility printed.
When they resolve the issues, the new Switch Pro TMR joysticks will be back through testing and on the market again.
Edit: AKNES estimates the Switch Pro TMR joysticks to be on market in 30 days. There have not been any issues found with the DualSense version, so this one in the video is leaving its testing phase and is shipped to Amazon to be sold.
Edit 2: They are now sold in a separate package with different voltages, so make sure to select the correct joystick when purchasing these for your Dualsense or Switch Pro. There will be a video for the Switch Pro controller installation shortly on my channel too.
I was about to order one for my Pro controller, glad I read your comment first.
Anyways, great video!
@@lxerolwhenever it is back, I will make sure to update this comment to reflect it
@lxerol They are now available for the Switch Pro controller as well. I edited my pinned comment too. New video will be published soon for Switch Pro replacement.
ua-cam.com/video/p9Qv_DgvPtc/v-deo.html Switch Pro tutorial
Impressive soldering work without using clamp board holder. Impressive, Indeed.
Thank you! The gun makes it a whole lot easier I will say that. Though, another trick I use is that I keep the rubber cap on the joystick while soldering, so that I have something to hold onto from the back. Otherwise I would have to press on the metal box which gets hot when soldering the pins and there is less space on the box to keep your finger.
So you like to hold it from the back lol jk - that reminded me of that video with the barber when he said” so do you want me to get you from the back?”
wow, i had to buy a soldering holder yet you did it with bare hands, WITH 1 HAND HOLDING, impressive skill tbh.
Thank you very much!
I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR THE CALIBRATION tool for years! Thank you. I'm fine changing only the potentiometer. It's cheaper and no soldering needed.
Haha you're welcome.
Though you will still need to solder 3 pins to replace a potentiometer
Impressive soldering skills. I managed to changed my sticks successfully but before that I wasted 3 controllers lol. I think soldering takes a lot of practice and patience.
I have been there too haha. I broke several controllers while I was still a beginner at soldering. I still have the motherboards in case I ever get good enough to fix them
I installed these in my ps5 controller, totally worth it😊
How different from the stock potentiometer sticks does it feel? People often complain about input delay and lack of precision in these electromagnetic sticks, especially on FPS games.
@@CrustyMusty101 I noticed that they are faster than the original potentiometers and more accurate. I’ve already installed these in 10 ps5 controllers. They are smoother and the thumbsticks Gulikit provides are way better than the original Sony thumbsticks
for aim is better?
@@stevensv4864 they seem to be more accurate in my opinion
I saw in an Amazon review that you lose thre L3 and R3 buttons with these. Is this true?
Was so excited for these to be released until I saw you had to solder.... damn
rip
I mean… what were you expecting 😂
Sony releasing good joysticks... Never mind, won't happen
I learned to solder for controller fix.... lol
nice!
All this to simply add a module that should've been in the controller from the get go, disappointing
Very disappointing indeed. Sony and other companies just want consumers to buy more controllers after their first one breaks. I'm glad other companies like Gulikit has come out with these permanent fixes to show first-party companies that it is possible.
@@djBaro_official This is because, as usual, console makes actually lose money even when selling the consoles. They need to sell games and accessories in order to make up for the loss. Business-wise it makes sense but ethically it absolutely doesn't.
@Ice_2192 Couldn't agree more!
PS3 controllers have Hall effect joysticks
If only they continued
Thanks for making this video. I'm supposed to receive my sticks tomorrow so gonna give it a shot and this video will help me greatly!
You're welcome! I'm glad I can help
@@djBaro_officialdid you try it?
If I tried the TMR? Yeah. I've played for quite a while with them
@@djBaro_official -
Is it accurate to play for a shooter player ?
Yep, totally
Saving this video for later. Thanks!
You're welcome, glad it helps
Thanks the guide.
I am no professional but managed to do the work.
My DualSense controller was under warranty but retailer was asking to bring my PS5 with all accessories and leaving it for 15 days in order to fix my controller. The warranty was for entire package, was their reasoning.
I want to bring into attention that desoldering in verry difficult without proper tools. The unleaded high temperature melting solder, tight holes and double sided soldered pins makes this job difficult.
I almost destroy the circuit board trying to desolder with a soldering iron@ 450 C and solder pump.
I was borrowing a hot air soldering station from a colleague and made some shields from a aluminum beer can, in order to protect the nearby plastic connectors. The desoldered joysticks melted a bit.
Please, do not attempt to do this job without proper tools. You will ruin your controller.
I'm glad the guide had helped you. Great to know you managed at the end.
And yes! It is important to use the correct tools for this. The beer can is quite a creative way to do it. Aluminium foil could have also helped if you do not have the special kapton tape for hot air soldering.
It is common that the base of the joystick melts when using a hot air station, you can scrape off the plastic easily though, or leave it if you don't want to risk damaging the motherboard
Finally!
Now I have something to solder
Have fun!
I see that it's jittery at 12:38, is that normal?
Yeah that is normal, nothing to worry about as it is not noticable in game
What temprature is used when desoldering because will be purchaseing
I used the maximum temperature this desoldering gun allows, which is 480 degrees Celcius. do be careful, this is higher than what may be necessary, but I am used to it and don't keep the tip on the motherboard for a long period of time.
It's just easier to pull the potentiometer out and put a new one in . In most cases you don't need to replace the whole thing.
That is true, it is easier. The metal joystick housing from Alps are compatible with the TMR sensors and magnets.
You will notice an increase in circularity error however. Close to 10% or 12%. I personally am not a fan of that, so I wouldn't do it. However, I can understand it is a daunting soldering task to take apart the entire joystick for beginners in soldering. I hope my next video I am working on can help with that. I want to show various ways to desolder the joysticks, also with different price ranges. I am saving up to buy all the tools I need now, as I don't have everything yet. And tomorrow I should receive some of the tools, so I can start recording already pretty soon!
Great video! Quick question: can you still use the original analog caps? Or they just won't fit anymore?
You can use the original caps. I have noticed (at least with the Dualsense TMR) it does influence the circularity. So, make sure to recalibrate when swapping between them, even if you have calibrated it before with the other thumb caps. Then it should be exactly the same.
uber soldering game!!! im very impress!!
Thank you!
Can I use original DualSense caps, or will they not fit? You used the GuliKit caps provided in the box, but placing the original DualSense caps isn't an option here?
You can use the original cap. Just make sure you (re)calibrate with the joystick cap you will use.
@@djBaro_officialthank you for your answer!
You're welcome, have fun modding!
What black magic are you using to solder multiple pins at the same time without them bridging the connection 👀?
Is that related to the type of flux you are using?
(I am just starting my journey of experimenting with soldiering and I have a few projects I want to try with this being one of them when/if my DualSense Controller starts to drift)
Hahah black magic is called science 🤓
It is mainly 2 things that help making it possible.
Flux is one of them, as long as you use some sort of flux, it should be better than no flux. The other component allowing me to touch all three isis the chisel/knife shaped soldering iron filled with loads of solder. That shape of a soldering tip is easier to work with for these pins.
@@djBaro_official An thank you for the tips, also for desoldering the original sticks do you think a copper braid would also work ?
Cause I don't think I have enough spare money for something like a desoldering gun 😅.
That said luckily it isn't urgent since my controller doesn't have drift yet and I personally prefer not to risk breaking it until it does :D
But I still like to watch videos like this to inform me early on what is possible for self repair and to keep feeding myself reasons to learn proper soldering with small electronics :D
It is harder with copper braid but definitely doable. Make sure to buy copper braid that has flux/rosin in it, makes a lot of difference in "sucking potential" lol.
Also what will help is adding flux on the braid/on the pins you want to de-solder, add tiny amount of solder to the tip of the iron to transfer the heat better, then start de-soldering.
For the 3 pins of the potentiometer, you can get away with a different method: First flip open the potentiometer so you can wiggle it back and forth. Similarly to how I heat up all 3 pins at the same time to solder them on, you can add solder to your soldering iron (with chisel tip, works the best), then heat up all three pins at the same time. You can then wiggle out the potentiometer while heating the pins. Afterwards, you will be left with the holes only full of solder, which you can then remove with the braid.
Another cheap alternative to the copper braid would be a manual solder pump. I highly suggest if you choose this, choose one with replaceable silicon tips.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! These longer tutorial types of videos are also new for me, and I am very happy with how it turned out. If you have more suggestions to disassemble/fix, let me know and I can record it next time I see that particular defect!
"Black magic" lol I swear i tried it and bridged all 3 joints I had to start all over wish I could show a pic of how it came out it looks crazy but I did it and it it works flawlessly lol
Nicee. If you want you can send pics in the Discord server, discord.gg/RTytdcg
do you know how this compares with those cheaper hall effect modules?
Even though hall effects exist for longer in joysticks (and should be more matured), I have had many issues calibrating them; they wouldn't give a good circularity. Maybe twice I have had a near perfect circularity with them, all other times the corners would overshoot by a lot, or would need some extra work to calibrate correctly, I may do a video about that when I have hall effect joysticks that require that extra work to be calibrated well.
As you can see in this video, TMR joysticks were calibrated easier. The circularity is great.
Someone in AKNES' Discord did a test for the latency. The latency on these are on par with potentiometers and Favor Union hall effect joysticks, where as Ginful "v5" hall effect (everyone calls them v5, but is marketed wrong. It is actually v3.5, v4 is said to come out next month), has relatively more latency. So it depends per hall effect how much latency there is. If you want more in depth testing, check the UA-cam channel Metal Plastic Electronics, he has 2 videos on Ginful and Favor Union. The TMR latency tested by a Discord member is similar to that of the Favor Union.
Assuming calibration went well with hall effects, then you have another factor, power consumption.
This information below came from AKNES themselves:
Original potentiometers use a constant 1mA, hall effects around 0.5mA ~ 2.0mA, and TMR 0.1mA ~ 0.3mA. So the average power consumption is lower on TMR.
(Multiply the Amperes by the voltage of the controller to get the power consumption.)
Ignoring the latency aspect, which imo is negligible, if there happen to be a hall effect with good calibration and 0.1mA ~ 0.3mA power consumption, then there would be no difference between hall effect and TMR.
@@djBaro_official awesome, thank you for the detailed explanation!
You're welcome. Hope it helped with your decision
Great video. What temps did you use on sucker pump?
I used the maximum temperature it can, 480 degrees Celsius. Not something I typically recommend, but it allows me to have it on the motherboard for the shortest time possible, otherwise I have to keep a lower temperature on it for longer, especially for the ground pins on DualSense I struggle with them, on the DS4 it is easier with lower temperature as it is a thinner board.
Does it work for the dualsense edge?
At the moment the DSE is not compatible with the calibration website, it does fit on the DSE modules, but you will need a separate calibration board, or wait until DSE is supported in the calibration website.
When soldering the new TMR joystick modules to the board, did you use leaded or lead-free solder?
I use leaded solder
@@djBaro_official thanks for the reply! I usually use 60/40 leaded Kester solder, but given these modern controllers use lead free I was wondering if I need to keep my iron tips separate.
Unintuitively, it is even easier to desolder the joysticks by adding more low melt solder or leaded solder to the joints. It will mix with the leadfree solder and lower the overall temperature to melt all the solder in a joint
e bought tmr joysticks for a ps5 controller and we desoldered the old ones and soldered the new tmr joysticks. All the buttons work and we are able to connect to a pc for calibration but the joystick values are wrong, with it moving all over the place with the right controller moving left even when at dead center and with also a really low and random circularity. What do you think we did wrong or what could be causing it?
If it is moving to the left (or to the top), you may have a cold joint on one of the three pins of the black sensor. Reflow the soldered pins with flux. Let me know if that resolves the issue, otherwise feel free to DM on discord: djBaro
what kind of tin wire did you use exactly? plan on doing this fix in the near future and was curious
I simply used a cheap one. www.eleshop.nl/premium-soldeertin-60-40-loodhoudend.html this one specifically.
60/40 with lead, rosin core. 0.5mm diameter
I like your flux. Where could I buy ?
The one in the video is an amtech 59 asm tf flux clone from ali express, obviously it is not the same flux as the original.
I now use kingbo flux, also from ali express.
If you want the original amtech 59 asm tf flux, which i highly recommend, Amtech changed their company name to Stirri. The new original name is Stirri asm tf flux. They sell it directly via their website
Can you calibrate hall effect sticks with this tool aswell?
Yes, just make sure you buy good quality pair
Been keeping an eye out for these sticks for a little while and I'm glad to see they're out and working great. I have a couple questions for you though, if you don't mind me asking;
I do happen to have a heat gun, but I don't have very much experience with it. Ideally I would get some of that reflective foil tape to insulate other areas of the board, and also buy a solder wick for clean-up if I went that route, right?
Other question is just which solder vacuum would you recommend if I went with that instead? It's pretty much impossible to trust reviews on Amazon considering how many terrible products have botted ratings (or hidden the bad ones).
With a heatgun, it is pretty much a necessity to have kapton tape, the reflective tape you mean, because there are a couple plastics near the joysticks. Wick or a (manual) solder sucker is needed to take out remaining solder from the holes. There is a roundabout way to do it without taking the solder out, by heating the pins up with the heatgun and put the TMR joystick back in its place while all holes are heated, it is easy to mess it up and install crooked so I don't recommend it.
For your second question, I only have experience with a cheap 3 euro manual solder sucker which was really bad, and the electric one I am currently using Pro'skit SS331. I bought it on Ali Express for around 130 euro. I can only recommend that one as I have only been using that one. It comes with some spare filters and it has a ton of replacement parts if anything breaks and filters you can buy extra on AE too. Though for the filters, I just bought a cotton aquarium filter on AE too and cut it to size, it is cheaper. I have another video on my channel where I do a deepcleaning if you want to watch that one. If you buy it, make sure you buy the one with correct voltage to your country!
@@djBaro_official Gotcha. I know about kapton tape but I was referring to the kind that looks like tinfoil, where the less reflective side was the side with adhesive.. but I suppose at that point I could probably just use actual tinfoil?
Ah, my bad! I thought you meant kapton. I haven't tried (regular or adhesive) tinfoil to protect the motherboard as I don't own a heatgun, so I can't give you a proper answer if they are equally effective or not.
@@djBaro_official I see. In any case I recall the soldering kit I got a little while ago has one of those spring-loaded manual vacuums, so I'll probably just end up using that lol
Good luck with modding your controller!
Does anyone know why the website is not working ??? Thanks ahead
You need to use a Chromium based browser and does not work on phones. So try Microsoft Edge or Chrome browser
@@djBaro_official thanks bud I appreciate your response I’ll let you know if it works for me
@@djBaro_official it didn’t work for some reason I tried both any suggestions
@@djBaro_official it didn’t work for some reason still the chargers that I’m using show the connection but they don’t register , I tried chrome and edge any further suggestion
The same thing happened to me any idea on whats causing this
you have to change both sticks? i my case is just the left stick drifting.
You don't have to, no. This video is mainly to showcase how to install (TMR) joysticks as a whole.
If it is just stick drift to fix, you can install just one new joystick as a fix.
Depending on what the cause of the stickdrift is, only replacing the potentiometer is sufficient. Or sometimes it is just dirty and needs cleaning, then clean the potentiometer with isopropyl alcohol.
Already been thru 2 duel sense for stick drift straight up trash and they still haven’t bothered to fix it
I have 9 broken ones laying in my dormroom now lol.
I am collecting the drifting controllers from anywhere I can and waiting until Gulikit fixes the last issues it encountered during TMR testing. Jim from Aknes estimated mid-october
@@djBaro_official do you do repair service
Yep
Hi there, Great video. So you know if the original ps5 dual sense controller thumbstick fit on these modules please. Also can you buy the different height sticks for this module like the king Kong thumbstick kit? Many thanks in advance
Thank you!
Original controller thumbstick fit on these joystick modules if you want to keep using those.
You can also buy the King Kong thumbstick kit and use the different height joystick caps and take these stock ones off to install the longer or shorter one.
@@djBaro_officialbrilliant thank you very much for your response. Much appreciated
@@djBaro_official do you suggest any additional care if you replace only the sensor and keep the ALPS frame?
The sensors fit on the ALPS frame, you will still need to calibrate it, but there isn't any additional care needed.
@@djBaro_official thanks mate 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the video! Do joyticks have any dead zones?
Deadzone depends more on the settings of the game you play it in, it's not tied to a specific joystick. I have tested the joysticks in a couple of games, mostly in Slime Rancher 2 and Horizon Forbidden West as I am playing through those now. In all of the tested games, except Rocket League, I was able to minimize the deadzone slider fully. In Rocket League, I had it on 0.03, if I go any lower I notice some jitter. (This is still impressively low!) I think it is because all games handle raw input differently, where Rocket League's 0 deadzone means actually 0, other games have a very small deadzone regardless if the deadzone setting is zeroed out.
@@djBaro_official ok thanks
You're welcome!
Impressive no clamp soldering, how long will these Joysticks last before the catch stick drift?
They work with magnets similar to hall effects, so they will not have stickdrift or wear out. In theory magnets do lose their strength after a couple hundred years. You can always recalibrate it in that case if you survive that long (joking ofcourse, but you can recalibrate however many times you want). The only 2 things that can still wear is the spring and the button. I don't know how long they last, I would assume they are similar to Alps but I don't have exact numbers on those as these are still new. In my test sample (the one in this video), R3 button did fail after around 50 hours of game time, which is to be expected in test samples. I bought 3 more kits from Amazon which worked better, one of them felt a bit mushy though, and I have had no issues with my Dualshock 4 L3 / R3 buttons.
@@djBaro_official 50 hours damn, what joystick should i get then. Should i just but bulk Alps and just replace them when they get the drift
You can do that if you feel like that is worth it. I am personally going all in on these TMRs after having hands on experience with them. I think the one button that felt mushy is a factory defect that just slipped through the cracks, and in a test sample where things are expected to go wrong. After the testing phase I bought three pairs on Amazon from AKNES and 1 joystick button felt mushy, I told them about it and they immediately sent a new PAIR of joysticks, not just a single joystick. So, their customer service is good and I can confidently recommend it to others if you want to consider a permanent solution to stickdrift.
Just to put it in perspective, you will likely have similar chances of getting mushy buttons out of the box if you buy Alps in bulk, but you will get stickdrift every now and then.
@@djBaro_official ok tmr
Awesome
Is there a kit for Xbox controllers too?
Yes, however only for Xbox Series controllers. I have another video where I install those.
They are not compatible with older generation controllers, because the calibration tool provided in Xbox accessories only works for Xbox Series controllers.
How does the analog stick click in feel to you, compared to the stock sticks?
I cannot give an apples to apples comparison because I also used the joystick caps that come with these, so obviously the feel is different to me. One thing I can say is that the R3 felt mushy after around 50 hours of game time, I have had no issues on my Dualshock 4 TMR sticks, and I bought more sticks from Amazon, of which 1 felt mushy out of the box and AKNES sent a new pair to me so that's good. I am guessing there may be some factory defects that slip through sometimes, but of the ones that do work, they feel good, better than my used up stock sticks.
Bro just casually holds his hand next to a heat gun😊
hahahaha
I also keep the thumbcap rubber on the joystick so I have something to keep to hold onto on the other side. It gives me more stability. At this point I am used to it so I feel comfortable doing it, but I can recommend a "helping hand" device or even better a pcb clamp so you can more safely remove the joysticks
Do you know when this product will release to the public?
DualSense joysticks left the testing phase and is released to the public already: www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8VG2BXD?th=1
The joysticks for the other controllers are still in the testing phase, but I think Gulikit already sells them on Ali Express as well. So far issues have come up with Switch Pro joysticks, so they have made it unavailable until it is fixed, but the rest you can buy from there. nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007307245843.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.61883fba336ozo&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2024%2C98%21%E2%82%AC%2017%2C34%21%21%2126.45%2118.36%21%40210388c917219466838626155e933e%2112000040180384919%21sh%21NL%210%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld.
PS4 and Xbox Series controllers still need testers so you can also apply to be a tester and get them for "free" in return if you provide some test data.
Are these compatible woth v3 version of the dualsense?
Do you mean BDM 030? This is done on a BDM 030 in the video. The TMR and the calibration website is compatible with all motherboard versions of Dualsense controller. *This does not include the Dualsense Edge, DSE does not work.*
Otimo video, obrigado.
Thank you
Can we use Xbox controller's thumbstick in Dualsense controller?
Yes, but they may sit a bit higher, causing them to rub on the inside of the front shell. If that happens, you need to take off some plastic from the joystick tip
@djBaro_official Thank you
Will it be available for xbox rollers/elite 2s in the future. I been told there some calibration issues or something that make it difficult to do so
Sorry, I do not know, I am just a tester of the current line of products. If it will be available, I'm sure it will be announced by Gulikit.
Can it be done on the dual sense edge controller? Assuming it would be a lot more easier process
You will need a different way to calibrate it, like a calibration board. the website in its current state does not work for DSE. Though the developer of the website is working on it.
Heating gun makes this way way easier lol. I keep the same solder where the pins are and pull thr old modual out, then heat it up, pop in the new one and done.
I have no heatgun, but I am saving up for one!
Is the webeite down i cant get it to open due to wrong browser . Any suggestions would be great thanks
I replied to your other comment
Why does it say a simple tool is all is needed and no modification is necessary on the amazon listing?
It says:
"Direct replacement installation without circuit adjustment. However, for installation, soldering skills and tools are required. It's best to ask a professional for help if you don't have it."
And later on it also says:
"This replacement requires soldering tools and skills", and "Without requiring any circuit modifications"
It is a easy to misread this. I think they specifically mean circuit modifying, the joysticks replacing is still a mod, but not necessarily modifying the motherboard circuitry.
It is worded a bit weird though
@@djBaro_official I misunderstood when I had initially read it. I know what was meant by it now. Thanks.
You're welcome. It is very easy to misunderstand what it says
@@djBaro_official yeah. I was stoked at first. I personally would consider de-soldering and then soldering a different component as a modification, as the stick modules are soldered to the main PCB.
Yeah, you're right. It is technically part of the circuit. I could bring up that feedback to Aknes, the seller. They listen quite well to feedback
I wish I had known they were now beginning to sell these units before buying the Ginful V5!
Guilikit made it extremely unclear with their website, and X posts.. Though... It shouldn't be that much of a problem, the difference shouldn't be too noticeable.. At least to me, anyways..
I am so glad that we're finally getting proper Hall effect sticks, without those dodgy snake oil boards to eliminate the stickdrift problem.
Upsetting how Sony ditched this technology after the PS3, those controllers were built like a beast withstanding even the harshest horseplay my child-self could give it 13+ years later.
Have fun with your Ginful joysticks!
How are the ginful 5s though?
ua-cam.com/video/5eDPQaIi0yg/v-deo.html
This youtuber has great reviews on certain hall effect modules. The linked video is about Ginfuk v5
Does these work for ps5 dualsense edge ??
The website does not support dualsense edge calibration yet. Though, people are working on cracking it.
You can also calibrate it with a calibration board that you need to purchase separately. It is hard to install but that would make it possible
do you know the resolution of them?
I do not know the resolution, but there is a similar question in their FAQ on Amazon:
"
Is the resolution of the TMR joystick much higher than Hall effect joysticks?
No. For controllers, the bandwidth of these three types is sufficient. The resolution mainly depends on the sampling precision of the backend MCU
So resolution, polling rate, and others will be same with the original.
"
I hope this helps you in some way
Can these tmr joysticks be fitted into the dualsense edge modules?
They fit, but there is currently no method to calibrate them so that they will work. Hence they are not compatible.
Can you not just solder the calibration boards the same as people use with the hall effects?
Yes I believe you can. Apologies for not mentioning that.
Another thing to note is that the developer of the website is working on DualSense edge compatibility, so maybe in some time we don't need the boards anymore
What flux do you use? I was considering buying the SRA Solder 135 Rosin Paste Soldering Flux on USA amazon, but the one you are using looks different
It is the Kingbo rma 218 flux from Ali Express, but it is not the official formula, as with 99% of flux on Ali Express, off-brand.
That one almost ran out, a friend gave it to me so I don't know which seller it was from. I purchased again Kingbo rma 218 afterwards, also from Ali Express, but I think from a different seller, this one is noticably also a different formula.
You mentioned US Amazon. If you live in the US, I highly recommend buying Stirri asm tf flux directly from Stirri's website. It has great reviews, reputable brand, performs good, and is ROHS compliant, which you cannot guarantee to have from Ali Express flux. I would have bought that one if the shipping wasn't crazy high to the Netherlands.
@@djBaro_official Just ordered some! Thank you so much for the recommendation and thorough video! I'll definitely be back once everything arrives, hopefully by the end of this month I can get back to playing silent hill 2 on my favorite controller
Awesome. Thank you for the kind words. I am hoping to do more of these soon once I have more time away from university. Also waiting for some parts to arrive. I have about 10 DS5 controllers waiting for TMR sensors haha, gonna do them all in a stream most likely
@@djBaro_official Finally got them replaced! Took me a few days and I ended up just clipping my old control stick module off the board and then individually desoldering each pin and pulling them out one at a time. Just got the new sticks put on and calibrated and it's all up and running great! Thanks again for the video and the advice!
Haha that's one way to do it! Glad my advice helped you out. Have fun with your controller 👊
Can you use the stock Dualsense stick caps with those?
Yep, you can.
@@djBaro_officialis this the same stick cap included with the KK set? And is it hotswap?
It is exactly the same as the one in the Gulikit KK set. Though, only the one shown in the video is included in the TMR box. You can take off the top half and insert a taller or shorter one if you buy the KK set caps.
@@djBaro_official thank you!
You're welcome
Hey does the TMR work on de EDGE ?
Hello, the calibration website does not work on the DSE yet. The developer is working on it but until then, safe bet to say it is not compatible. You get the TMR to work on the DSE if you have a different calibration method, like a separate calibration board that you can purchase, then you can make it work.
hi
These Hall Effect joysticks solve the drift problem. Do the TMR joysticks do the same? If so, what additional benefits do the TMR joysticks offer besides solving the drift issue like the Hall Effect joysticks? ty
Easier to calibrate, which makes them more accurate.
Less jitter, next to non existent.
Is more power efficient, so battery lasts longer.
Latency is generally less than hall effect brands. It is on par with factory potentiometers and the Favor Union hall effect joysticks. Though, Favor Union hall effect has the downside that the circularity is not great.
I don't know how much you'd notice the difference in latency, I don't notice it but I also don't play competitive shooters. Only competitive game I play now is Rocket League, still without noticing the latency.
@@djBaro_official Thank you for your quick response and for taking the time to provide such detailed information! I appreciate it.
you didn’t mention whether TMR joysticks solve the drift problem like Hall Effect joysticks do. Could you clarify that for me? and where can i buy these TMR joysticks? (I live in France) Thanks again!
Yes you're right! I forgot to mention that. TMR also works with magnets like HE joysticks, so it is a permanent fix. You can buy them on Amazon via reseller AKNES.
Ali Express has multiple resellers and Gulikit sells directly on Ali Express too. But I will be honest I am biased because Aknes was the company providing these TMR joysticks to me for testing
Is Dual sense edge Compatible? The calibration tool work with dual sense edge? The normal dual sense can be updated for the last firmware on this tool?
No ps5 only. is a halleffect for duelsense edge with a solder flex circuit what solders under the module
As mentioned in another comment: You will need a different way to calibrate it, like a calibration board. the website in its current state does not work for DSE. Though the developer of the website is working on it.
Is this available for purchase
They were available for a while. However Aknes pulled them out of Amazon two days ago and Gulikit official store on Ali Express too, because they found an issue that they need to fix before they can continue selling them. As soon as that is fixed, it will be available for purchase again
Can anyone share a link to where I can buy these, thank you.
You can buy them on Amazon in the country you are from. I don't know what country you are from, so I cannot provide a link, but you can search "AKNES Gulikit TMR joysticks" and then pick the joystick for whichever controller you need it for
I ordered the switch pro analog sticks but I meant to get the ps5 ones can i still use the switch pro ones?
I answered your question in your other comment 😉
I did the same thing and was wondering if they are still compatible, like the ones shown in the video.
@@robertboucher8421i did it regardless it was my time soldering and my right stick was working i even calibrated it my left stick was not working because i had burnt the board when i was desoldering i did wanna go through the whole return process that’s why i try it
Interested to see if it stays good in the longterm, as the versions need different voltages
My dual sense got new TMR Sticks from gulikit. A professional installed them. He did the calibration stick and showed me the picture. Everything worked fine. When I got the controller today there is a major stick problem. Any solution?
The sticks go permanently in one direction.
You can only push them in 4 directions.
Hello, is it only going in the 4 corner directions? If so, then it might be miscalibrated as I see this often in the Discord server that people do not calibrate it correctly.
On a Chromium based browser (Google Chrome or Microsoft Edge for example) go to dualshock-tools.github.io/ and connect your controller with a USB cable. You can follow the steps starting from 11:34. The part where many people make a mistake is when calibrating the stick range permanently, they do not rotate the joysticks and just click on 'done'. You must rotate the sticks for a good range calibration as shown in the video.
Can you try this and leave a comment if it fixed your issue or not?
Is the calibration permanent? Is it actually stored in the controller or just the software on the computer? Does it work properly with PS5 or just on PC?
There are 2 modes of calibration in the website, temporary and permanent. Temporary makes it so that as soon as the controller is disconnected and looses power, the calibration changes are gone.
Permanent calibration is stored on the controller and will be used even if it powered off and on again, meaning it carries on to the console as well.
I hope that answers your question.
@@djBaro_officialWould a PS5 controller software update by Sony affect the permanent calibration?
No, updating won't affect the permanent calibration. Though this goes for any joysticks, if your calibration is gone wrong or you notice an issue later down the line, you can simply just recalibrate again.
Permanent calibration only means that it stays after being powered off. Calibrating it permanently a second time will override the previous permanent calibration.
my bdm 30 left stick will not calibrate.ive tryed 2 different hallefects same result. does it not work for bdm 30?
The calibration website works on all motherboard versions of DualShock 4 and DualSense. Which calibration were you attempting, the center or range/circularity calibration? If it was the range, did you make sure to rotate the joysticks before finishing the calibration? That is a mistake that often happens. Which hall effect joysticks are you using by the way? The quality of the joysticks can also have an effect
@@djBaro_official i was using the tmr guli kit. i thought the left one was bad so u put a regular flavor union in and it does the same thing. its an aim controler. ive done other controlers with good results. i read another guy was having the same problem on reddit? i updated the controller a few days b4 i put them in
@@djBaro_official also its an aim controler when it was new it would glitch on psn when i would try to send messages .i couldnt navigate the keyboard it would glitch out but in a game everything would work fine
Do you mind sending me photos on discord how it looks like? You can DM me, my username is djbaro, or join my server discord.gg/RTytdcg. I am not understanding yet what the exact issue is and I might be able to help if I have some visual what the issue is.
Lekker bezig, hopelijk krijg ik het voor elkaar om mijn sticks te vervangen. Het terug solderen ging niet heel soepel, dus weer even netjes desolderen.
Succes ermee!
Welk soldeer station heb je als ik vragen mag?
Ik heb de "Atten AT-989 soldeerstation" gekocht van Eleshop met soldeerpunten die ik van ali express gekocht heb hier: nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001976065102.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.107.806c79d2b6Wyzo&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
En mijn desoldeer station is de Pro'skit SS-331, ook van ali express.
@@djBaro_official thanks! op hoeveel graden heb je je Pro'skit ingesteld om te de-solderen?
Ik had het op de maximum temperatuur (480C) gezet zodat ik het niet lang op het moederbord hoef te houden. Het kan ook wel met een lagere temperatuur, misschien 350C oid, dan moet je het langer erop houden en soms opnieuw zuigen, dat probeer ik juist te voorkomen met een hoge temperatuur. Je moet er wel voorzichter mee zijn.
On gamepad tester why am i seeing jitter on these modules? I followed the guide perfectly
How much jitter is there?
@@djBaro_official after calibration jitter started appearing in the center only. when I move the joystick around its fine, just the center
It depends to what extend your values change. Mine jitter too even in this video towards the end, but this is a normal amount of jitter. The same happens with any other joysticks. It is fine as I don't notice any in games I've played with it, which are Horizon forbidden west and Rocket League. HFW still has some deadzone you cannot disable. In Rocket League, which is better to test it with, you can fully disable deadzone if you wish, but I don't recommend it. Then you will notice the jitter. I have it at 0.04, which is still incredibly impressive to not notice anything.
If however you get more jitter than that and do think it is an issue, i recommend contacting where you purchased it. AKNES has good customer support if you bought it from them, they gave me a new pair because one had a bad button. As far as I have been told Gulikit on Ali Express is also good with after sale service.
A way I have explained it in the past to others: These joysticks aren't some million euro components to a rocket ship to Mars that need pinpoint accuracy. In my opinion, small amounts of jitter like what you can see in the video here is acceptable for a consumer product, as this is still better than any other joystick I've used! I hope that perspective/mindset is clear.
That said, if you notice it is a drastic issue in game and it jitters all over the place, then please contact where you purchased it for their after sales services as it can be a defect.
One question, is the installation easier for the Switch Pro Controller. Because I'm planning to buy a pair of these for mine. Also my controller got right stick drift a long time ago, so besides upgrading the joystick, I would be fixing the drift for the right one as well
As of right now, the joysticks are still in their testing phase, as I mentioned in the description.
Several testers on AKNES's Discord server were having issues calibrating the joysticks on the Switch Pro. Gulikit decided to take down the Switch Pro versions temporarily until they fix this. Meaning, they don't advertise this to be compatible with the Switch Pro AND the DualSense, only the DualSense.
They mentioned new tests may open afterwards for new Switch Pro joysticks, so if you join the server, you could sign up to get the improves ones sent to you for free when they get published. You will have to send them test results after installing them in return.
@@djBaro_official Ok, so now I get it. Thank you very much for your answer
@@djBaro_official Also does that mean that Gulikit is gonna make a totally apart pair of joysticks for the Switch Pro controller?
@@feintexp-2530Yes, AKNES said Gulikit has to change the joysticks so that it works with the Switch Pro. I haven't looked too much into it, as far as I know it is due to the voltage differences between the DualSense and the Switch Pro why they aren't interchangeable with the same pair of joysticks
The new Switch Pro TMR joysticks are available now with the corrected changes. I will be uploading a video on it soon as an installation tutorial.
I purchased 5 gulikit tmr ps5 joystick pairs, installed 4 pairs
2 are great
2 are faulty and stick to side if you move the thumb stick as of issue of tension or spring, dont know is it faulty or installing issue
Hey, coincidentally yesterday there was a discussion about similar cases in Aknes' Discord server. If it is a similar cause for you, what I think is the reason it happens is because the thumbcaps are sitting higher on the joystick module, causing friction between the thumb cap and the inside of the front shell. Could you try to verify if you have a similar situation? Two ways to test it: Press down on the joystick and move it around, does it feel the same or can you move it more freely? Second, swap to the original thumb caps and see if you have issues using that.
To come back to if it is faulty or an installing issue. Before you do the steps I mentioned above, you should check if they are installed properly and flush on the motherboard. Disassemble your controller and look sideways to the motherboard, pay attention to the white plastic piece that is on the bottom of the joystick. If it is diagonal or sits too high, then you should desolder the stick and solder it back on while making sure to put pressure when soldering so that it is flat. I recommend leaving the thumb cap on it so you can put pressure on that.
Lastly, if it is faulty, I think it is best to contact where ever you bought it for replacements, at least the thumb caps replacement which is most likely the root of the issue. If you bought from Aknes, you can contact them via Amazon/Ali Expres directly, or ask Jim in their Discord server: discord.gg/nZnk65CVr8. I had issues as well with a pair I bought from Aknes on Amazon. After I sent my order number and a video of it not working, Jim sent a new box of joysticks immediately no questions asked.
@@djBaro_official thanks a lot for valuable information's, went back back to discord server, one of the pairs turned out not to be faulty it was just was higher and dissembled the reassembled and works great, other one was faulty.
Awesome. Glad one of them turned to be good regardless. Perhaps also a lesson learnt with keeping pressure when soldering!
Assuming you bought from Aknes, I hope Jim can help you out with the faulty one or where ever else you bought it
Why gulikit dont recomment to use them on duelsense
Can you elaborate?
They don’t recommend on the Dualsense Edge, the more expensive controller.
@@Hartbreak1 no the normal one not edge because there is no calibrait program but there is now
@@laithqumsieh check their site again and you’ll see that they’re talking about the Edge.
It works fine on the normal Dualsense.
As of today, it will not work on Dualsense Edge. This might change as the website may be compatible with DSE in the future
Where is the series x comtroller video?
Hey, I did not sign up for the Xbox Series joysticks test, as I do not own an Xbox controller. There may be others in AKNES's Discord that record their own tutorials for Xbox and / or Switch, I don't have any control on the tutorial of those controllers
ua-cam.com/video/AzkJkJS99XA/v-deo.html here is the video I just published for the Xbox series X controller! I decided to apply for that test as well after having read multiple comments asking for it, hope you enjoy.
can try at dualsense edge?
There is no calibration website available for the Dualsense edge. So it is not compatible. I will consider recording a tutorial once it is possible to calibrate it
@@djBaro_official nice..thanks
You're welcome
Can i install Gulikit TMR on dualsense edge and calibrate in website
Dualsense Edge is not compatible with the calibration website yet. The website is open source and people are looking at ways to calibrate it, but right now, it is not compatible
@@djBaro_official :((
In the future it may be possible
@@djBaro_official thks bro
You're welcome!
I have just replaced mine and the right stick is stuck in the top left position, when I move the stick doesn’t register any movement
Any advice ?
Was it before or after calibration?
If it happened before calibration, then you may need to check for cold joints on the potentiometers and reflow the three pins with flux.
If it happened after calibration, then you may have not moved the joysticks in the circle when you were calibrating the stick range. You have to rotate and only afterwards press "Done".
Let me know if you need further help. You can also send pictures to me of your soldering in my discord server, link is in description, maybe then I can help you out better.
@@djBaro_official thanks for your reply , it’s before calibration. I will check the joints and report back
Okay!
I re flowed all the pins and seems fine, checked on game tester and still stuck on -1 on both axis 2 and 3.
Any other ideas?
Do you still have the old joystick? Can you check you didn't accidentally pull out the traces that go in the hole? Also make sure you calibrate and then check whether it works or not
excuse me mister but that is jitter or drift what is show 12:36
Slight amount of jitter like that is normal. Even for new Alps potentiometers. That's nothing concerning.
I think it is also partially due to how the website reads Sony controllers, it never shows any values between +0.00392 and -0.00392. So it rounds up or down
@@djBaro_official oh nice i was thinking it was fault of tmr joystick, thnaks
No worries! Let me know if you have other questions
Please name for Soldering Gun or link amazone
It is the Pro'sKit SS-331, I bought it from Ali Express.
Just some tips in case you buy it:
You get 3 different size tips, 1mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm. I use the 1mm for desoldering the joysticks. You also get some filters extra, which you can purchase more of seperately. However I found these filters quite expensive and I go through them quite quickly. So I bought an aquarium cotton filter and cut circles from it, which is significantly cheaper. If you want to buy it, please make sure you purchase the version with the correct voltage for your country.
Hope it helps!
@@djBaro_official thanks pro
You're welcome
is dit de nieuwste v5 versie?
BDM 030. Niet de nieuwste maar wel zelfde lay out.
You should have centered the sticks before putting the controller back together.
Oh, could you explain why? It is the first time I hear about it
@djBaro_official basically the hall effect modules don't come pre centered. So you have to use a thin metal piece to poke into the holes and turn the stick until you center it. Takes practice. Look at tutorials.
Oh you mean like that. Ok I understand where the confusion comes from now.
I am aware hall effects have this hole where you have to center it from. There are two reasons why I did not do that here.
First, these are not hall effect joysticks - it's TMR joysticks that don't have the holes, it works differently.
Secondly, I don't know if you watched until the end of the video, there I show how to calibrate the joysticks with different method. This website only exists since April 2024 or something, but this is the preferred way of calibrating hall effect sticks or any other joystick, because not only can you calibrate the center, you can calibrate the stick range (circularity) too, which you must do with TMR and hall effect joysticks to have a good circle.
Ever since the website exists, there is no reason why one should use the pin and pin hole still, for hall effects specifically. Gulikit did not bother using pinholes for their TMR joysticks as the calibration website is quicker and more accurate
@djBaro_official ohhh ok thank you. I see it now. Seems way easier.
Muito bom o vídeo, quando vai sair a versão do controle do Xbox séries?
The Xbox Series compatible joysticks are also out, however as I do not own an Xbox controller, I did not sign up for testing those and do not have a video of it.
Other testers may record their tutorial video for the Xbox controller, so if I happen to see a video of a tester, I will reply to your comment again with the link.
Another hreat way, is to simply purchase the controller from microcenter.
Get their cheap warranty. When it breaks get it repaced at rhe store with a new one 👑👑💪
Warranty was only like 12 bucks.
I dont know much about microcenter, I'm from Europe. But for people who don't want to bother with soldering, and don't need the permanent fix, then it may be an ok thing to do. Though Sony also provides a year warranty
DIY person, need yo get my soldering game on
This stuff is beyond me. Wish i could send in my controler so they could put them in my controler😅
I am not affiliated with Gulikit and AKNES other than being a tester and recording this video for them, though I would be open for installing these for you if shipping and cost are not a concern. I live in The Netherlands, so that is where you would ship to/receive it back from. you can dm me on my instagram @barofix_en if you want.
@@djBaro_official thanks man ill dm you soon.
@@djBaro_officialIs there any other way to contact you about sending my ps5 controller to you so you can install it for me as I don't use social media? Would also be able to replace the battery in my ps5 controller at the same time if I send you a battery as well?
Hello, you can contact me via my email address, zevenaarfix@hotmail.com
Is it necessary to install the mushrooms from the kit in these analogues, or can I install standard mushrooms from DualSense on these analogues?
You can install the standard ones on the Gulikit joystick
@djBaro_official And I would like to ask. What is the situation in the resistance of the analogues from GuliKit? I learned that the Ginfull analogues and the stock Alps have the same resistance, while the green ones from Favor Union with hall effect have this resistance increased. And what is it like in the case of GuliKit? Are they like Ginful/ALPS or like Favor Union in terms of resistance?
Do you mean resistance needed to move the joystick around? I would say the gulikit is quite smooth or loose. Up to personal preference if you like that it feels loose or if you want one that is sturdier. Some also say that the Gulikit joystick is too loose that you move it around too easily in the center
@djBaro_official Exactly. I meant whether their resistance required to move is the same as ALPS, or maybe smaller or larger
I would say less resistance
So are these the best options for avoiding stick drift after 1 or two years of use?
I cannot tell if these are the best after two years, because new products from different brands that haven't come out yet can still outperform Gulikit ones. There are even new Favor Union Hall effects coming out and Ksilver is also making TMR joysticks.
That said, TMR is still good whether 1 month later or 2 years later. The performance should not change and is currently the best option in my opinion. There are currently some issues, like rust formation on the joystick module, which should be fixed in batches made after October. So I recommend waiting with buying. Aknes on Amazon took out the product pages for the TMR, so you cannot buy from Aknes anymore, other third party sellers and Aknes on Ali Express still sell from the old batch, so be mindful and avoid those. Wait until Aknes puts their Amazon links back up, those will be from the newest batch
Does it work for ps4 controllers
This one is only compatible with the Dualsense. They sell another variant for the ps4 controller, make sure to buy that one. You can find my other installation video here: ua-cam.com/video/kn-zdFN8Wm0/v-deo.html
Somebody has a tool that makes desoldering easyer
The one I use makes it quite easy.
I am planning to do a video to show different ways to desolder joysticks. Ranging from cheap to more expensive
That's awesome can't wait
The fact that we have to do this should have had legal consequences for Sony. Mine started drifting after just playing one game(Forbidden West)
I think you can send it to Sony for a free repair/replacement if you have the receipt. It has a year warranty, but they have also been sued for the planned obsolescence and lost, so I do not know if they have to replace drifting controllers for free now, just like Nintendo has to do so, though it is worth a shot assuming you played Forbidden West within the year warranty.
Well, I declare my controller..dead 😅
Bummer! Is it because you attempted and failed the repair or because you cannot do it yourself?
@ because it’s a bit complicated, i don’t have the tools.I also have the edge controller, it’s easier to change.
There is a discord server with other repair technicians I am in. Depending on the country you are in, maybe someone else in the discord group can help you out. It may be cheaper than buying a new controller later, or in case of TMR joysticks an upgrade. If it is something you are interested in, feel free to DM me on discord the country you are from so I can ask around. My discord username is djBaro
Bro what is that soldering tool? I've never seen such cool sht in my life, where can i get one
Pardon me i'm just a filthy third world country dweller
Haha, glad you like it! It is an electric desoldering pump. You have them in various price ranges and small or big. This one specifically is the Pro'sKit SS-331H. I bought it on ali express. If you do buy it, make sure you buy the one with the correct voltage for your country.
Sony is downright evil for selling controllers they KNOW will stop working in half a year, then offering a 200 dollar solution who's main selling point is replaceable analog sticks... which you will NEVER find at Walmart or Target because Sony never intended to produce enough to cover every shitty edge controller we were suckered into buying.
I was hopeful the solution demonstrated in this video might be a way past this nonsense (I spent close to a grand on basic and edge ps5 controllers)... but when he got into the guts of that controller I noped out. I haven't the skill or inclination to go this route.
Friggin sony, amirite?
From their perspective, they only see more money from accessories... I totally agree with you, it shouldn't be taking this much effort to own something that just plain works, period