Відео

Hey, I haven't used the gamesir cyclone 2, so I don't have an opinion on that yet

@djBaro_official looking forward for one comparison video

Thank you. I do keep a list with ideas for videos, though, at the moment I don't know how fast I can get through them due to financial constraints. My glasses broke so I had to buy new ones. I'm now also working on another highly suggested video for which I purchased other equipment for totaling around 200 euro, I'm really looking forward putting that online. And ofcourse, if more people end up suggesting a specific review, such as the cyclone 2, then I will push that video idea forward to get it out sooner. Thanks for watching the video!

@@djBaro_official thank you for being humble brother....so i have a idea if you don't mind ... people like me we specially don't know what actually tmr or hall effect feels like so if you do a comparison video or any controller video any time soon please compare the the sticks tention and overall feel with the duel sense controllers

You're welcome, glad it helps

If it is moving to the left (or to the top), you may have a cold joint on one of the three pins of the black sensor. Reflow the soldered pins with flux. Let me know if that resolves the issue, otherwise feel free to DM on discord: djBaro

There are differences, yes. They require different voltages, so you may run into issues when calibrating a Swtich Pro TMR into a Dualsense, or a Dualsense TMR in a Switch Pro controller. This used to be the same version, but during testing phase it was found out that version had issues in the Switch Pro. On old packaging you may still see compatibility with both controllers, but it is then only compatible with the Dualsense

@@djBaro_official Thanks for the info. I mistakenly ordered the Dualsense TMRs instead of the Switch Pro. Fortunately, I own both, so I guess I'll be upgrading my Switch Pro controller for now and pray that someday, maybe, the Dualsense TMR sticks will come back in stock.

No, but depending where you are from, I can likely find an independent repair technician who can do it for you. If you want to have it, and don't mind paying for the installation, let me know the country you are from, I'll ask around to people

The website does not support dualsense edge calibration yet. Though, people are working on cracking it. You can also calibrate it with a calibration board that you need to purchase separately. It is hard to install but that would make it possible

Yes, but they may sit a bit higher, causing them to rub on the inside of the front shell. If that happens, you need to take off some plastic from the joystick tip

@djBaro_official Thank you

I have been there too haha. I broke several controllers while I was still a beginner at soldering. I still have the motherboards in case I ever get good enough to fix them

They will not work unfortunately. Either their voltage specs are not the same or the pin layout does not match, I don't know of the top of my head what is the reason. But it won't work I'm afraid

@@djBaro_official Ok thanks, The pin layout is the same and I can also now confirm that it does not work as I was too curious and installed one. have ordered the Correct ones. Thanks

Bummer. It's good you still tried, I personally love experimenting like that

Hiya. Dead zone is not saved on the controller itself. So I am unsure how a swap of TMR joysticks can cause a higher dead zone. How have you tested this to make sure the cause is because of the TMR?

The one in the video is an amtech 59 asm tf flux clone from ali express, obviously it is not the same flux as the original. I now use kingbo flux, also from ali express. If you want the original amtech 59 asm tf flux, which i highly recommend, Amtech changed their company name to Stirri. The new original name is Stirri asm tf flux. They sell it directly via their website

Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. Currently that trick with the screw is what I do too to resolve this issue. Just ever so slightly looser screw fixes it

It is very hard to diagnose it over text. If you are comfortable with DMing me, you can via discord, my username is djBaro, then you can send pictures of the solder work Just some general tips I can give from prior experience diagnosing this issue: check for cold solder joints. Use flux and if needed higher heat to reflow the solder on the joints

Yeah that is normal, nothing to worry about as it is not noticable in game

Bummer! Is it because you attempted and failed the repair or because you cannot do it yourself?

@ because it’s a bit complicated, i don’t have the tools.I also have the edge controller, it’s easier to change.

There is a discord server with other repair technicians I am in. Depending on the country you are in, maybe someone else in the discord group can help you out. It may be cheaper than buying a new controller later, or in case of TMR joysticks an upgrade. If it is something you are interested in, feel free to DM me on discord the country you are from so I can ask around. My discord username is djBaro

It's me, the Wolverine rip off :)

Hiya, I really appreciate the kind words, thank you - also for subscribing! I'm glad you find the videos helpful

Oh, could you explain why? It is the first time I hear about it

@djBaro_official basically the hall effect modules don't come pre centered. So you have to use a thin metal piece to poke into the holes and turn the stick until you center it. Takes practice. Look at tutorials.

Oh you mean like that. Ok I understand where the confusion comes from now. I am aware hall effects have this hole where you have to center it from. There are two reasons why I did not do that here. First, these are not hall effect joysticks - it's TMR joysticks that don't have the holes, it works differently. Secondly, I don't know if you watched until the end of the video, there I show how to calibrate the joysticks with different method. This website only exists since April 2024 or something, but this is the preferred way of calibrating hall effect sticks or any other joystick, because not only can you calibrate the center, you can calibrate the stick range (circularity) too, which you must do with TMR and hall effect joysticks to have a good circle. Ever since the website exists, there is no reason why one should use the pin and pin hole still, for hall effects specifically. Gulikit did not bother using pinholes for their TMR joysticks as the calibration website is quicker and more accurate

@djBaro_official ohhh ok thank you. I see it now. Seems way easier.

Microsoft doesn't let you calibrate the Elite Series 2 via their app, so there is no native support, however, you can solder a calibration board onto it and calibrate the TMR using that. You can find them on Ali Express!

@djBaro_official thank you

Hey, I was wrong about it. Elite Series 2 can be calibrated via the app, but TMR runs into other issues like magnetic interference. If you can find a solution for that, such as special foil that stops interference, then it should be possible

Yeah. It allows me to put the dead zone significantly lower. Not all games have 0.0 dead zone though, so not in all games it is noticable

Xbox Series controllers can be calibrated. Prior Xbox versions such as the Xbox One or Xbox 365 controllers cannot be calibrated

Heya, you're welcome. Glad I could help. Personally, I recommend thinner solder wires when choosing solder. Thinner wires allow you to easier measure how much you need compared to thicker wires. So you don't immediately get too much solder on your iron when only trying to get little amount of solder. I hope that answers your question. Let me know if you have more!

That makes so much sense, and helps out a lot. Thanks so much for the response. Sounds good, I’ll be sure to ask if I have any other questions. I really appreciate the help!

I have heard about it, it is an interesting product. Unfortunately, I just had to purchase a new pair of glasses as the ones I wear broke, so I am on a tight budget for now. So I cannot promise when I can review it. If I decide to purchase it in the future, I will definitely review it

You're welcome! And thank you for watching

You can use the stock thumb caps on the Gulikit joystick modules if you want. I have found a workaround last week for the Gulikit thumb caps. I wish I had found this sooner to include it in the video. Here is what you can do: First do everything as normal and check whether your thumb caps are moving difficult. This tactic is not really possible to do if you have bad hearing, maybe have someone help you with it. Bring the thumbstick to one side and let go, and listen to how it snaps back. If it rubs on the shell the audible feedback is less. Do this for full circle, not just 1 direction. If the left and right sound the same and sound snappy in all directions, then you're good to go. If it doesn't feel snappy in a particular edge, loosen the screw that holds the battery tray, maybe only by one full circle or half a circle at a time. Then assemble everything again, all cover screws and black cover on joystick. And try again to listen for snappiness. So far this has worked great for me without downsides that it is too loose

I actually just replaced a controllers’ alps sticks to TMR, I’ve noticed that one of the thumbsticks is touching the casing.

I hope the tip i gave above could be useful for you too to solve this

You don't have to, no. This video is mainly to showcase how to install (TMR) joysticks as a whole. If it is just stick drift to fix, you can install just one new joystick as a fix. Depending on what the cause of the stickdrift is, only replacing the potentiometer is sufficient. Or sometimes it is just dirty and needs cleaning, then clean the potentiometer with isopropyl alcohol.

Hey, this is a very broad question and it depends on your needs. So it is hard for me to give an exact recommendation, but I hope I can inform you so you can pick one that fits your needs. I don't know what you will solder on, so I don't know if my tools will be good for your needs. I bought the Atten 969 soldering station (currently 45 euro, I don't remember the price back when I bought it) with the idea to use for a long time and often, but as I also just started out I did not want to break the bank on a very expensive one. I have later bought new tips on ali express for 10 euro ish, because the original tip that comes with the Atten 969 is a bit meh, other shapes work better for different use cases and I mainly use it in joysticks, so the knife like tip works best for me. I first bought a copper set, they corroded quickly and I threw them away. I then bought a set of the normal ones but I mainly use the knife like tip; the one in my installation videos. I just noticed while getting the link that the tips on the images are not 100% the same as the ones I got. I only have 2 knife like tips. a.aliexpress.com/_Ex5Y6eZ. The idea is the same though, different size tips are useful, you do not need to buy this exact one from this seller. If you do get a different one, make sure the tips are pre-tinned. It will save you a headache and corrosion. So those are my tools. In general I would say the wattage of the soldering iron is the most important thing. Soldering stations and irons separately will in general have higher wattage. If you will work on controllers mostly like I do, I would recommend 60W or more. The DualSense motherboard is quite thick and requires me to put the tip on the pins for a few seconds longer when soldering to ground compared to thinner DualShock 4 motherboard, no problem, but it will be problematic for even bigger motherboards (like the console itself) with more layers. So, research what you need for your usages. The rest of the price ranges is mostly based on built quality or brand name like Hakko. You can optionally get a hot air gun, I don't have a hot air gun yet, but one I want to buy soon for a video is the Atten ST862D. This one has good reviews. Not a budget price for beginners, but I do include it here in case you may want it in the future. Other tools that will come in handy for desoldering are soldering pumps and solder wick. For pumps, get one with a replaceable silicon tip. I bought this one a week ago: a.aliexpress.com/_EHuGBbR. AVOID soldering pumps that look similar to these: a.aliexpress.com/_EvpX205. When I began I bought this one (from other seller, but they are all the same), I spent more time maintaining this pump, cleaning it and unclogging it, rather than desoldering. Not worth it. Replaceable tips are much easier. Electric pumps and fully automated vacuums also exist, if you intend on doing it more often, you can spend some more on one. I use the Pro'sKit SS-331H (H stands for the voltage version, may change depending on your country). But there are also other options out there that may better fit your budget. Solder wick can be useful too, though I personally haven't found a cheap and good working one on Ali express yet. And since I don't use it very often, I haven't looked into getting a better quality one. If you buy one, make sure the wick has rosin/flux in it. Last two things, tin wire and flux. Tin wire is again broad. There is leaded and lead-free wires. Leaded is easier to work with and has a lower melting temperature. Lead-free is more difficult to work with and is also what comes in all electronics as the default solder used, required by law. Lead has toxic fumes, so ventilation is highly recommend if you are exposed to it for long periods and often. Fume extractors can help with that, you can buy one, or iFixit has a guide to build your own. I personally keep a window open and have a room fan blow it outside, someone else I know who lives in Hawaii just solders outside because the weather allows him to do so. So a fume extractor is not necessary, but recommended if you have no other solutions. Leaded is in general quite preferred due to it being easy to work with. Most tin wires are hollow and also contain some rosin in them, I recommend getting those, it makes life a bit easier. Thinner wires allow you to more accurately measure how much you need for a solder job. Mine is 0.5mm. www.eleshop.nl/premium-soldeertin-60-40-loodhoudend.html, cheap and has worked well so far. I always hear Kester is a top tier brand with this leaded solder. a.co/d/3BUyay0. I don't know exactly how cheap and expensive solder varies if their composition is the same, I haven't done research on that. If I can answer that question I might go for Kester next if it really matters. One thing I can say though, is whichever solder you get, it will likely last you for a very long time if not for every future soldering job you will have. I have mine for 2 years now and still haven't finished it. Definitely worth it for 10 euro. If Kester one is better, I don't see a reason to not have a one-time purchase on a better quality solder which will last me for years. But right now, I don't know know if the different brands matter. There are tons of different fluxes on the market. If you live in the US, Stirri asm tf flux is one that I can highly recommend. It is RoHS compliant, meaning it is safe to breath in and the overall quality is top notch. This UA-camr has a nice review on them: ua-cam.com/video/805T3wvLxVg/v-deo.html I live in The Netherlands, having it shipped here makes it quite expensive, so I opted for Ali Express, Kingbo RMA 218. Not RoHS compliant, and even if it says it is, there is no real way to validate that claim. Stirri is a reputable brand. Stirri used be named Amtech, so you will see a lot of Amtech ASM flux on Ali Express, those are obviously fake as they don't go by Amtech anymore. But that does not say they automatically don't perform good, just not as well as the original and are not RoHS compliant. Other tools you can use are ESD-safe tweezers for holding wires while soldering, and a PCB holder. Stirri has a huge sale on their website now, I am tempted to buy some even though I have tons of Kingbo already. Flux has an expiration date, so I may have to wait till next year black friday and buy it then, otherwise I am wasting the Kingbo flux. Also a tip: store flux sealed in fridge to prolong the shelf life. I took my time on this comment, I hope it helps and let me know if you have more questions

Hey so, I replied to your awesome comment but I just noticed it got deleted, maybe because I tried to include a aliexpress link? omg I can't write it again😭

@@djBaro_official Basically I was thanking you for all the great information and I take your advice to heart. Also, I found out that in my country soldering wire with lead can be sold only for professional use. I will try to send the link again for a wire from ali

nope, I can't post the link even if i split it into two separate comments. Damn you youtube

You're welcome! The deletion probably is because of the link. I don't even see it in my "held for review" comments. UA-cam straight up deletes them. You can send it to my discord, my tag is djBaro.

I use leaded solder

@@djBaro_official thanks for the reply! I usually use 60/40 leaded Kester solder, but given these modern controllers use lead free I was wondering if I need to keep my iron tips separate.

Unintuitively, it is even easier to desolder the joysticks by adding more low melt solder or leaded solder to the joints. It will mix with the leadfree solder and lower the overall temperature to melt all the solder in a joint

You're right, I made a mistake here. At the start of the video I mention "torx 6" and "torx 8" screwdriver bits in the requirement tools, these should be "security torx 6" and "security torx 8" respectively. Thank you for pointing it out, I will add it in a pinned comment to correct this, I hope that will be sufficient.

Thank you for watching!

hahahaha I also keep the thumbcap rubber on the joystick so I have something to keep to hold onto on the other side. It gives me more stability. At this point I am used to it so I feel comfortable doing it, but I can recommend a "helping hand" device or even better a pcb clamp so you can more safely remove the joysticks

The TMR? Have you checked whether the solder joints all make good contact? That they're not cold joints or bridged somewhere. If it looks fine and still doesn't work, I highly recommend contacting the seller for replacement

You're welcome!

Haha, glad you like it! It is an electric desoldering pump. You have them in various price ranges and small or big. This one specifically is the Pro'sKit SS-331H. I bought it on ali express. If you do buy it, make sure you buy the one with the correct voltage for your country.

That is true, it is easier. The metal joystick housing from Alps are compatible with the TMR sensors and magnets. You will notice an increase in circularity error however. Close to 10% or 12%. I personally am not a fan of that, so I wouldn't do it. However, I can understand it is a daunting soldering task to take apart the entire joystick for beginners in soldering. I hope my next video I am working on can help with that. I want to show various ways to desolder the joysticks, also with different price ranges. I am saving up to buy all the tools I need now, as I don't have everything yet. And tomorrow I should receive some of the tools, so I can start recording already pretty soon!

It may be a cold solder joint. Try to reflow the solder joints of the sensor on the x axis. If that does not work, you can send me a photo so I can check whether something is wrong with the motherboard. My discord is djBaro

Yes, however only for Xbox Series controllers. I have another video where I install those. They are not compatible with older generation controllers, because the calibration tool provided in Xbox accessories only works for Xbox Series controllers.

Yeah, we can already start seeing this trend with Ksilver TMR joysticks and Ginfull TMR that are announced. I think the former one is already available for purchase. It is a good business move to be first, I agree with you fully. My issue lies in that they had issues that were not fixed yet, and continued selling the older batch with thumbcap and button issues. It was only when the rust appeared, that they did a soft recall. Unfortunately these are already in the hands of many customers who put effort into installing these TMRs

Yes, just make sure you buy good quality pair

Ik had mijn naam veranderd naar @barofix_nl Mijn excuus. Ik zal het in de video aanpassen

Have fun!

Yep, that is exactly what I am experiencing too frequently and that I showed in the video. If you want to attempt fixing it, here is what I found works. Sometimes you can rotate the affected thumbcap 180° and place it back on the joystick. It will either be worse or better. Pick the better option. Similarly, you can swap the left thumbcap on the right thumbcap and vice versa. This may help. On top of that, you can try loosening the battery cover screw slightly. Then assemble it again and retest it. If it still gets stuck, unscrew the battery cover screw a little bit more until it is fixed. Hope this information helps!

For clarity. When I saw "thumbcap" I mean the *entire* thumbcap, not just the upper part that you take off the bottom half.

@djBaro_official yes the thumbcap not the cap my bad

@@djBaro_officialI rotated the thumbcap 180 and it's working now as intended. Thanks for the tip man

that's awesome, nice!

I simply used a cheap one. www.eleshop.nl/premium-soldeertin-60-40-loodhoudend.html this one specifically. 60/40 with lead, rosin core. 0.5mm diameter

3 out of 7 PAIRS of Ks HE I bought at some point malfunctioned. I will not buy them again. The first batch I bought of 5 pairs, it seemed fine, but 1 pair failed after few months and drifted. The second batch was so weird, I think the sellet sold me the wrong HE version, maybe it was for a different controller. Because the magnets had reversed polarity (they were physically installed the wrong way around) in the X axis, meaning that I could only use 2 out of 5 pairs by replacing the X axis magnet by the Y axis magnet of one of the other joysticks. Those 2 pairs eventually failed too. I personally would choose Ginful or Favor Union over Ksilver any time. But I bought TMR in wholesale so I don't need to go back to HE for a while now lol.

Xbox 1708. Ive been using manually calibrated K-Silver JH13 HE since there release. On a Frankenstein Ginfull RJ13 stick. With a 0.6x8mmx10mm compression spring (instead of original 0.5mm) with a 3d printed base with better support. They perform better than most the other over hyped sensors. Ginfull v1-v3 I always had 30%+ of DOA sensors or them dying after 3weeks. V4 seem to improved. Favor union I think are shit. And the gulikit TMR i got from july-sep are all the same shitty batch. These tend to be look over. But if manually calibrated correctly. With modules close to center. Tedious yes but other folks just slap them in there. Tested for good simetrity at 60-80%. I play shooters without aim assist of deadzones. And perform well. Also any assembly with ALPS build spec will develop mechanical drift within 3-6months. Maybe sooner.

@Vizr. there's a ps4 controller with ps5 ergonomics called the honghao that uses k silver hall effect sticks with 2 back buttons uses a usb c cable and only cost 23 bucks on Amazon perfectly calibrated at least the one I got i think u might like it

Me when doing a review for the first time and not preparing a good script... unedited version was more than an hour long

Haha you're welcome. Though you will still need to solder 3 pins to replace a potentiometer

I have not seen that before. But I have heard others say that had to recalibrate their Xbox several times for it to finally work well