I agree, MG kinda left the aft end of the sill assembly up to the mechanic's discretion. I ended up doing much the same as you, though your a far better gas-less welder than I am Cheers, Steve from US
Excellent progress. I have switched from PO15 to KBS Coatings. Por15 has trouble sticking to Clean metal. It seems to peel off in sheets. It needs the rust to bond.
Coming on great guns, I admire your energy and stamina, when I worked night shift, it use to nock me for six and by the end of the week get a migraine. Fantastic stuff 👍.
It’s hard to motivate yourself to get out and in the garage but once I do i tend to forget about it because I’m focused on what I’m doing! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Just something I noticed… when you are welding, you start with a long bit of wire out. I’m not a welder but when I was taught how to stick metal together with heat that I should be in the same position for gas or flux welding. Better repeatable welds. Just a thought. Keep at it, I’m enjoying the videos.
Good progress. If the underseal is sound, I'd be tempted to leave it. I don't know if you can still get it, but the old single,pack 'knacker lacqueur' mixed to body colour and painted over the old underseal, comes out well.
I would of drilled the holes for the majority of the outrigger in the floor then you can do the pudding welds from the top which is always easier then you only have a couple underneath. Good job though. Keep it up. 👍
Good progress mate, once again. We don't see that magnitude of body rot here in Australia generally, though I've seen some fairly bad ones. It seems that older car bodies were designed to trap as much dirt and moisture as they could. Back in the time I think if you opened up some of those areas even from new, you'd find surface rusting already. Anyhow it gives us enthusiasts of old cars something to do with our spare time. Cheers.
Nice job! Is that how the rear sill seals off as standard? Great approach: breaking down a daunting task into little manageable chunks 👍 BTW got our GT running after rebuilding the carbs. She runs and drives! Now I need to seriously think about the body work…
@@robbell4339 nice!! Well done another one closer to getting back on the road! No it’s not you just have to do the closing off section at the bottom I just decided to go a little bit overboard on it to hopefully protect it more!
I wouldn't have worried too much about the top of the outer sill as nice shiny "kick plates" are available which just screw on the top. Some even have the MG logo on them.
Make life easier for yourself - jack your car up higher- put a block of solid timber under each jack stand - guarantee you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner!
So I've been watching your content on the big TV in the living room and through the time lapse my wife walks in and says, " who is playing that beautiful music? ". I looked in the description that day and it was there, Now she wants to know again and its not there. Could you kindly identify the artist again please? Thank you. By the way enjoy your work, keep it up. That ole B was lucky to find you!
That’s music is hit and miss with people I have changed it in the latest video! But I will put it in every now and then I think because I find it really relaxing! It’s called Folk Better Days it’s a copy-write free song that comes with adobe!
It’s always better to weld down from above rather than welding up from below if at all possible. If you think about it you are creating a molten weld pool of Liquid Metal which will want to flow down hill. So best to work with gravity rather than against it.
What's the point of putting seem sealant over the weld? it's meant for gluing two panels together I suppose it will give it some protection because weldsare the most likely place to start rusting, but why don't you just use undersil or bitumen roof repair water-based instead. It's coming along nicely looking good I wonder if it's worth having holes in the bottom of the seal and putting some rubber grommets I think this is an issue from the manufacturing as we see in modern cars they do have vent holes to allow moisture from the air to escape, don't think it's a good idea to completely seal it up!! As I said before you want to be using a rush converter on the metal not a primer does nothing, rust converter will bond itself much better to the steel and fasten any surface rust because there will be surface rust microscopically even if you can't see it. I might have that car depends how much?? I would like to change the suspension get rid of the Leaf Springs that put some normal coil and gas Shocks you can get them for about six hundred all round you could use SLK Mercedes springs and shocks with a bit of modification. Stick a 2 L Honda VTEC engine in it be quiet the Beast. There a good car to modernise. I would put a piece of 1 inch still pipe the length for the wires to go into, if you can't paint them inside not really good having them exposed like that put a rubber Gromit on the end make a hole and feed the wires out.
@@jedi-mic thanks for the comment. Seam sealant is for covering seams panel bond would be for gluing panels together. And the sill has gaps for ventilation but yes some people also drill some holes as well 👍🏻
It is very common on more modern cars, to slobber seam sealer over spot welded joints in "not normally visible" areas, go and have a look in the boot floor of your typical Honda, Nissan etc, so why not do the same on this MG?
Blimey... you've gone a bit mad with the seam sealer. The rear wheel arch is supposed to be welded to the big rectangle at the end of the sill in several places. The arch then becomes the closing panel so there was no need to box the end in apart from the bottom triangle bit. Going well though..
Great video 👍 Progress is great and I'm not the only one who appreciates the fact you video the process of the repairs 😊
Thank you! ☺️
I agree, MG kinda left the aft end of the sill assembly up to the mechanic's discretion. I ended up doing much the same as you, though your a far better gas-less welder than I am Cheers, Steve from US
Thank you!!
Excellent progress. I have switched from PO15 to KBS Coatings. Por15 has trouble sticking to Clean metal. It seems to peel off in sheets. It needs the rust to bond.
Thanks for the info!!
Coming on great guns, I admire your energy and stamina, when I worked night shift, it use to nock me for six and by the end of the week get a migraine. Fantastic stuff 👍.
It’s hard to motivate yourself to get out and in the garage but once I do i tend to forget about it because I’m focused on what I’m doing! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Nice work, thanks for taking the time to film it.
@@hohocc1349 thanks for watching!
Just something I noticed… when you are welding, you start with a long bit of wire out. I’m not a welder but when I was taught how to stick metal together with heat that I should be in the same position for gas or flux welding. Better repeatable welds. Just a thought. Keep at it, I’m enjoying the videos.
Brilliant keep all the details on the next videos 😊
Cheers!
Excellent work as usual , The little beast is starting to come together , but don't get too carried away cutting the rust out !
@@colinritchie1757 you just wait until next week’s episode 😂 I haven’t finished it yet but half the car has gone!
Good progress. If the underseal is sound, I'd be tempted to leave it. I don't know if you can still get it, but the old single,pack 'knacker lacqueur' mixed to body colour and painted over the old underseal, comes out well.
@@karter5351 thanks for the tip! I might clean it up and paint the whole thing with that Por15! Not 100% decided yet.
I would of drilled the holes for the majority of the outrigger in the floor then you can do the pudding welds from the top which is always easier then you only have a couple underneath.
Good job though. Keep it up. 👍
Yep, thinking about it that would have been a better option!
Great work 👏 keep it going 👍 you might want to get a better ground clamp. Have a 1974.5 to restore myself. 😊
@@gregorypeterson9 I think that will be my next purchase! One with a magnetic adapter! Thanks for watching and good luck with yours! 👍🏻👍🏻
Good progress mate, once again. We don't see that magnitude of body rot here in Australia generally, though I've seen some fairly bad ones. It seems that older car bodies were designed to trap as much dirt and moisture as they could. Back in the time I think if you opened up some of those areas even from new, you'd find surface rusting already. Anyhow it gives us enthusiasts of old cars something to do with our spare time. Cheers.
@@gazzafloss exactly, sometimes you just think what was the designer thinking! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Nice job! Is that how the rear sill seals off as standard?
Great approach: breaking down a daunting task into little manageable chunks 👍
BTW got our GT running after rebuilding the carbs. She runs and drives! Now I need to seriously think about the body work…
@@robbell4339 nice!! Well done another one closer to getting back on the road! No it’s not you just have to do the closing off section at the bottom I just decided to go a little bit overboard on it to hopefully protect it more!
What is the handheld belt sander details? You are doing a great job. My 77 B appears to be the same colour " British Racing Green".
@@grahamlumsden8471 brilliant! And thank you ☺️ the belt sander is a Black and Decker KA900E-GB it’s £50 from tool station 👍🏻
I wouldn't have worried too much about the top of the outer sill as nice shiny "kick plates" are available which just screw on the top. Some even have the MG logo on them.
@@user-rf9me7xm1w Thanks! Yes I will
Be getting some 👍🏻 just wanted a flat surface to put them on to.
Yep
I would say from what looks like your too far away with the mig gun , should be a maximum of 1/2 inch
For a gasless mig it doesn’t matter as much because you don’t need a gas shield. But I am probably a bit to far away 👍🏻
Just noticed how close you were to the fuel pump while welding! Gulp!!
@@ianellis5634 yep! 😂 I’m very close to the tank in the next episode! Probably not advisable!
Make life easier for yourself - jack your car up higher- put a block of solid timber under each jack stand - guarantee you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner!
I intend to get the car higher when I start the passenger side. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
So I've been watching your content on the big TV in the living room and through the time lapse my wife walks in and says, " who is playing that beautiful music? ". I looked in the description that day and it was there, Now she wants to know again and its not there. Could you kindly identify the artist again please? Thank you. By the way enjoy your work, keep it up. That ole B was lucky to find you!
That’s music is hit and miss with people I have changed it in the latest video! But I will put it in every now and then I think because I find it really relaxing! It’s called Folk Better Days it’s a copy-write free song that comes with adobe!
@@HJRgarage Thank you Henry! She is a musician and loves that tune. Have a great day from the USA.😀
Re the outrigger / jacking point , would it not be possible to plug weld from the top inside the car ?
@@colinmorsley2545 yes it would and in hindsight that would have been the better option! But we live and learn!
Every day is a school day @@HJRgarage
It’s always better to weld down from above rather than welding up from below if at all possible. If you think about it you are creating a molten weld pool of Liquid Metal which will want to flow down hill. So best to work with gravity rather than against it.
@@martinhibbert1428 100%! I could have done the castle section the same way!
@@HJRgarage It also tends not to get up your sleeves or down your gloves when when welding from above which is always a good thing 😀👍
What's the point of putting seem sealant over the weld? it's meant for gluing two panels together I suppose it will give it some protection because weldsare the most likely place to start rusting, but why don't you just use undersil or bitumen roof repair water-based instead. It's coming along nicely looking good I wonder if it's worth having holes in the bottom of the seal and putting some rubber grommets I think this is an issue from the manufacturing as we see in modern cars they do have vent holes to allow moisture from the air to escape, don't think it's a good idea to completely seal it up!!
As I said before you want to be using a rush converter on the metal not a primer does nothing, rust converter will bond itself much better to the steel and fasten any surface rust because there will be surface rust microscopically even if you can't see it. I might have that car depends how much?? I would like to change the suspension get rid of the Leaf Springs that put some normal coil and gas Shocks you can get them for about six hundred all round you could use SLK Mercedes springs and shocks with a bit of modification. Stick a 2 L Honda VTEC engine in it be quiet the Beast.
There a good car to modernise.
I would put a piece of 1 inch still pipe the length for the wires to go into, if you can't paint them inside not really good having them exposed like that put a rubber Gromit on the end make a hole and feed the wires out.
@@jedi-mic thanks for the comment. Seam sealant is for covering seams panel bond would be for gluing panels together. And the sill has gaps for ventilation but yes some people also drill some holes as well 👍🏻
It is very common on more modern cars, to slobber seam sealer over spot welded joints in "not normally visible" areas, go and have a look in the boot floor of your typical Honda, Nissan etc, so why not do the same on this MG?
Lopez Betty Johnson William Martinez John
Blimey... you've gone a bit mad with the seam sealer.
The rear wheel arch is supposed to be welded to the big rectangle at the end of the sill in several places. The arch then becomes the closing panel so there was no need to box the end in apart from the bottom triangle bit. Going well though..
@@minimonte1 😂 your not wrong I got a bit carried away! I will grind back the seam sealant where the spot welds go though!
The small triangular filling piece is available to buy. I left it off until I sprayed loads of waxoyl down inside the sill box sections.